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John Bickerstaff

John Bickerstaff

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    • John BickerstaffJohn BickerstaffAnother Balkan Bike Ride

      Playing Chicken with a BMW

      June 16 in North Macedonia ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

      Picnic breakfast in the park blemished only by a big dollop of donut jam ending up on my t-shirt. Not quite as bad being a Liverpool jersey. Proceeded to have a whistle stop tour of central Skopje. Tried to get down to the riverside cycle route but 3 flights of stairs & full panniers put paid to that. Passed the parliament building or at least that was my assumption based on the copious number of Macedonian flags outside - got to be going for a record. Getting into Skopje on a Sunday afternoon had proved fairly relaxed. Getting out during Monday rush hour less so. Satnav directed my up a no left turn. Decided to ignore the difficulties of crossing the road, the barrier & the fact that no-one was going up there. With good reason - wrong way up a one way. Had plenty- ish space to start off. But then self important BMW & Land Rover drivers were choosing go 2 abreast. With nowhere for me to go, it was a case of move in or run me over. Thankfully they weren't going fast & they chose the former. Bit hairy. Glad to get out of Skopje, not so keen on the looming mountains. Stumbled on the border crossing - again Satnav sent me down road with a queue of juggernauts. One driver poked his head & wagged his finger. Indicated to go back to the main road. Checked it was ok for bikes and ended up at the border. No queue for me - just some footie chat with the border guard. Had to nag for a stamp. Got across & it looked like there was a police reception for a gangland drug lord. Didn't help they were built like brick shithouses & all in black. Got my head down. Didn't want to get pulled over by these. 5 mins a huge convoy sped past. Hmmm. The next 10 or so miles were nice & rural. Passed the real Allianz Arena - none of your Bayern rubbish. Then downhill rather quickly - hit a big town - no sign to let me know. Mad busy main road, endless cat show rooms, scrap dealers, furniture showrooms and bizarrely the odd hotel. If it was going to be like this for the last 30 that wouldn't be good.Read more

    • John BickerstaffJohn BickerstaffAnother Balkan Bike Ride

      Pick a gate, any gate.

      June 15 in North Macedonia ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

      Yet another stupid o'clock start. Car dropped smoothly enough & so to the bike drop - no queue to check in. Security cleared & everything was going so smoothly. Then the delight that is thunderstorms over Frankfurt. Not the first time. 15 mins delay turned into 45, then 90. Ended up having to board, depart the gate & park up until Frankfurt gave the go ahead. At least the plane was only half full. Couldn't figure out why the email came through saying hand luggage could be checked in because the plane was full. Eventually made it off but the endless updates for connecting flights told a story of an airport in chaos. And so it proved. Endless people dashing for planes. There was a 3 hour layover for Skopje so that wasn't too bad. Just had to get to the gate. Frankfurt is so big they laid on a bus to get to the other side. Eventually, made it to find that it had been changed. Then again, and again and again. But each & every time you walk to the gate to find it had been changed. 5 gate changes & the thunderstorms had wandered somewhere between Frankfurt and Skopje. Another 45 mins delay on a plane full of toddlers and babies. Nice. And to top it off the steward trashed my water bottle moving it for some idiot that had bought multiple suitcases on board. This might have been why the email was sent. Not the best start to the trip. Hopefully it will get better. Hit Skopje Airport 1 hour late. Immigration wouldn't stamp my passport - 50th country & no stamp - how dare they. Pulled over in customs - thought they were going to want a full unpacking but took it at face value that it wasn't a new bike. Look at the packaging lad. The assembly went well enough & on the road just after 4. Roads seemed a bit sketchy and as for the bike lanes. The original aim had been to check in & then cycle up to the Mt Vodno cable car. According to Google they stopped at 8. Going to require a quick turnaround. Quick stop at the main square for cash - thankfully after I was accosted by an American YouTuber trying to get cash out of me. Lame video idea - do one. Was a bit more polite. Last mile was a bit of a climb. Warden suggested that the last cable car might a bit sooner. Dumped bags and off up the mountain. Urgh. Out of climbing practice. Didn't help the lack of water supplies. Could see at each switchback that the views would be good. Parked up & headed to the ticket office - to find no cable cars running & what looked a very closed ticket booth. Rats. Except it wasn't. Just needed to wait till 7 & they'd crank it for 30 mins. Just don't miss the last one. Got some recommendations for Montenegro from one of the people waiting. Quick dash around - lots of mountain bikers up here and a closed bike shop. No breaks bring caught do far. Lazy snack tea & an early-ish night. Going to be a hard day tomorrow.Read more

    • John BickerstaffJohn BickerstaffCroatia Autumn 2024

      Accidental haggler.

      October 13, 2024 in Croatia ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

      Out of the villa by 10 necessitated tidying and packing, though final bits and pieces could be put off till the car drop off at 8pm. Once sorted, keys handed over and thanks given it was off to the 'Capital' of the Konvale region where they hold a weekly folklore and culture day. Traditional Croatian dance, song and crafts. Not sure but there was substantial time to kill and it looked a pretty enough place when we drove through. Arrived to find numerous coaches and a car park pretty much full. Pulling in the punters in October - must be doing something right. Followed signs for our welcome drink which was a shot of wine liquor - bit early for that. Liz perused some of the local crafts. Apparently the performance started after mass at around 11.15 so settled on a central spec. The compere gave a welcome and narrated everything in 4 languages and in fairness it was very entertaining. The dancers were unfailingly smiley and very skilled at what they did. Must've been warm in the traditional costumes. The wife swapping dance was particularly funny - the blokes jumping and stealing the ladies when they could. Had a little mooch around the museum and church - apparently silk production and embroidery was big here and much of the historic artefacts had to be squirreled away during the war to protect from the Serbian invaders. Souvenirs bought, though little English was spoken - prices were written down. Liz ummed a little & it was taken as haggling - the price went down but not on what she was interested in. No matter - sorted & off to Cavtat to hit the 'beach' and get some swimming in. Soaked up lots of sun - banking it for the next few months. Walked both headlands and explored the backstreets of Cavtat. By 6 things were cooling down a little and fleeces were at the car but didn't really want to get to the airport too early as the flight was delayed. Ho hum - drop car off and hole up at the airport.Read more

    • John BickerstaffJohn BickerstaffCroatia Autumn 2024

      The urge to scrump pomegranates.

      October 12, 2024 in Croatia ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

      Headed over to the local beach to cool off. Supposedly Prapatno Beach was one of the few in the area that is sandy - I knew Trstenik further down the coast was sandy so it was plausible. Liked the idea of getting in the sea without falling over or gouging feet on stones. Wandering around Ston there were beach shoes available which seemed a good idea, just as they had done 7 years ago then as now it was towards the end of the holiday - no point. If only I'd thought on 7 years ago that I'd need them next time I was in Croatia. Anyway they weren't needed at Prapatno. The sea was warm, the beach had benches on and there was a supermarket to get ice cream. Except it was only open when the camp site was open - out of season - no ice cream. Had a little walk to take in the colour of the sea - so clear. The only time in the whole holiday when there wasn't an abundance of pomegranate trees & yet to be able to pick one that is ripe.Read more

    • John BickerstaffJohn BickerstaffCroatia Autumn 2024

      Ston or Mali Ston that is the question.

      October 12, 2024 in Croatia ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

      Last full day - cast iron good forecast so explore a little further afield. Decided to try the Peljesac Peninsula - somewhere I'd been and was fairly sure would be quiet, though other than Dubrovnik everywhere had been. The road out was scenic, though plenty of Sunday drivers and not a chance of getting past. Admired if that is the right word the horror of the cruise liner sat in Dubrovnik and saw the consequences with the endless coaches out and about. Doubted that they'd make to our destination and so it proved. Opted to go with Ston first largely because the turn for Mali Ston had been and gone before awareness had set in. Half full car park and next to no-one about. Result. Decided to hit the walls before things got too hot. Wasn't worried about the levels of busy. Headed to entrance A - logic says the start would be A. Toilets and ticketing signs suggested we were in the right area but no-one at all to take money. Ah well do the walls and pay at the end. Doubts crept in when the few people walking the wall were all going the opposite direction - was it one way like Dubrovnik? Pushed to the back of mine and enjoyed the views. Tempted to walk the wall to Mali Ston but time wasn't on our side - a touch ambitious. Made it to entrance B where we found out that the ticket agent at A had been late and the ticketing system was down anyway so the only way to get tickets was to go online. Assured him I'd get onto it - he didn't seem too bothered so neither was I. Quick picnic lunch in the park while being glared down by a cat until he got scared off by a scrawnier cat - pussy. Back to the car and off to Mali Ston. Hit it just as a party of Japanese tourists were giving rounds of applause for getting off the coach safely (maybe) Ambled along the coast towards the 'beach' a loose term that didn't encourage swimming - left it to the confused ducks going round in circles. Couldn't find an ice cream so a quick look at the other side of the 'Great Wall of Europe' as they like to call it and the off to the beach.Read more

    • John BickerstaffJohn BickerstaffCroatia Autumn 2024

      Bite central.

      October 11, 2024 in Croatia ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

      Lazy morning by the pool & other assorted bits and pieces. In fairness the forecast wasn't promising but both shitty forecasted days have yet to yield any rain so pinch of salt should maybe be considered. Anyway post lunch and a little more pool messing decided to hit a couple of local(ish) coastal sites. First was the Prevlaka peninsula - the closest we'd get to Montenegro. Supposedly some wild scenery and views. On the way it looked like things had gone awry with the navigation as the border crossing loomed - no passport so we wouldn't be crossing. Turned off and entered an episode of Abandoned Engineering - my Sunday morning geeky viewing of choice. Punta Ostro, the most southerly point in Croatia had various disused fortifications dotted around like the mossie bites on my leg. God knows when they were from but the ladder up the side of the main fort was hideously tempting. Just explored the various paths and acquired further bites - invest in bug spray urgently. Headed for safer territory - Popovici beach - supposedly one of the most scenic beaches in the Adriatic. In theory the 2km walk down numerous steps and it being off- season should ensure it wasn't too Dubrovnik like. And so it proved - nice walk, quiet beach and a gorgeous swim in crystal clear waters. The stony shore was a little harsh but the setting sun just topped it off.Read more

    • John BickerstaffJohn BickerstaffCroatia Autumn 2024

      Big Windy

      October 10, 2024 in Croatia ⋅ 🌬 22 °C

      Though things had been quiet so far in Croatia - gut feeling said Dubrovnik might not be. In fairness not just gut - cruise schedule had 2 beasts docked. That was better than Wednesday - 4 with around 7000 passengers. Long story short - early start to get the first water taxi from Cavtat. All being well hitting the big Dub for 9:15. There in lay the problem - got tickets & was told it would be going in 3 mins, except it wasn't there. In fairness it did arrive at 8:15, it just didn't have any fuel. Waited for them to fill up. Got going and about half way to Dubrovnik he turned back. They'd forgot a stop. Doubled back for 2 people that could easily have been picked up by the next ferry. Onwards to the next stop - mass pile in of kids. Eventually rocked up at 10- not the early arrival planned. Before we left we were told the last boat back would leave at 4 due to high winds. Looked and saw tour groups everywhere urgh. Thankfully the walls were pretty quiet. Did notice the winds were getting up. Admired the city from afar enjoying not being in the midst of the hoardes. Amazed at what they crammed in to nooks and crannys - allotments, basketball courts, restaurants perched in the most inopportune locations. Unfortunately noticed that the cable car to Mt Ord seemed to have stopped running so opted for a mooch around the alleyways of the old town before walking up to a city vista in the new town. Nice enough. Equally another ferry trip to Lokrum Island seemed to be pushing our luck. Decided to head back before the wind turned nasty. As it turned out that ship had sailed. When ours sailed boy was it choppy. For much of the journey it felt like little progress was being made - just being thrown around. Liz was not happy. A 45 min trip again took 75 mins and definitely a few shaky legs & queasy stomachs on arrival. An experience - maybe should've driven...Read more

    • John BickerstaffJohn BickerstaffCroatia Autumn 2024

      Belly flop

      October 9, 2024 in Croatia ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

      Had a little mooch around the base of the castle again marvelling at what it must have been like trying to attack. Then pushed on for the coast, not too hot and sweaty though. Again the road to Molunat was promisingly quiet & when we got there the sign pointing to the car parking pointed down to an empty plot of concrete with seaweed strewn across it and waves lapping at its edges. Seemed a bit dodgy. Parked on the road - there were spaces - Molunat was quiet. Had a wander, looking for suitable swim options. Bought and ice cream - the woman took pity on us and let us off the 5¢ we were short. Eventually settled on a spec with a slither of sand & proceeded to dodge submerged rocks and fail at diving off the protruding ones. Undignified belly flops. Headed back to enjoy the sunset from the edge of the pool. Nice.Read more

    • John BickerstaffJohn BickerstaffCroatia Autumn 2024

      Our own private castle (ish)

      October 9, 2024 in Croatia ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

      Overnight torrential rain didn't bode well. Neither did the forecasts so a combination of that & Liz's need to do her hair led to a lazy morning. That said all the forecast rain for the morning didn't appear too likely. Scooted out to the local shop to re-stock & by lunch time all was well with the world - well the sun was out. Opted for a two pronged attack on the rest of the day. First tackle the local castle & then after getting hot & sweaty climbing up & down the ramparts, head to a quiet coastal village for a swim. The car park at the castle - Sokol Grad (which means Falcon Town) was virtually empty - a couple of cars - looking good. Almost managed to go in without paying. As we climbed 50% of the car owners were on their way out - taking their crying kids with them (well 1 was crying) Had the castle virtually to ourselves. Some great views of the valley from the castle walls. Liz almost broke one of the cannons & did some Roman numeral detective work. There were some well set out informative displays & you could see that they did recreations here at times - the forge & kitchens definitely looked used. By the time we were nearing the top the couple we'd been following had left. Literally our castle. Looking down you could see how impregnable this place would be.Read more

    • John BickerstaffJohn BickerstaffCroatia Autumn 2024

      Another dose of Cavtat cherry goodness

      October 8, 2024 in Croatia ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

      Autumn in this neck of the woods is subtle & easily missed. 7am looking out over the valley & the gentle coating of mist & the slight chill suggested it wasn't far off. Pre-breakie swim was off the agenda but things did warm up once the sun was out from behind the mountains. A couple of breakfasts, some lazing by the pool & a little planning. Decided to explore Cavtat - the local town & the villa guestbook suggested that there might be free parking somewhere rather than the main option which was somewhat expensive. The owners shed some light & post swim we were good to go. Luckily enough there was a spot left & just the small matter of a 15 min walk downhill. Lots of quiet walks around the various headlands protecting the sheltered harbour. Opted to nosey at the luxury yacht first & then take in the headland with the most 'beach' areas. The term beach is used loosely - mainly concreted sunbathing areas with access to the sea. Little evidence of sand. Still most of these areas were nice enough, plenty of shade as well. Ambled round, enjoying the sun & lack of hustle & bustle - all very quiet though there were quite a few British accents. Eventually settled at the most beach like offering and managed a swim. Bizarrely the sea was significantly warmer than the pool. Back to Cavtat for some lunch - sarnies & the most amazing cherry studel. My last meal in Cavtat was a breakfast of some superb cherries - seems apt. Found a bench looking out over the harbour & proceeded to be eyeballed by some very brave sparrows, not that they had any success. Headed round the southern headland dominated by the monolithic soviet era hotel (probably) Signs warned that food was not to be consumed & that sun loungers could not be reserved with towels or other personal items. That said the path became quiet & rugged. You could almost forget the hotel was there. Still, the circular route went through the grounds so it would be rude not to have a nosey. There was a finance and accounting conference on - don't think we fit in. Looked a nice enough place but the seaward side was definitely of the concrete monstrosity variety. Back to the car & back up the mountain to mess around in the pool & the evening sun.Read more

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