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  • John BickerstaffImperial Capitals Bike Ride
    Day 10

    Dry at last.

    July 30, 2023 in Hungary ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    Took quite a bit of cleaning - particularly the legs. Clearly not the cleanest of roads. Fair bit of chilling while eating lunch then boredom took hold. The weather had cleared - it was dry so out & about. Simple walk along the Danube to admire the Parliament building that was modelled on the UK version. Figured I'd go down to the crooked bridge then come back. Unfortunately it ballooned somewhat - the bridge back - the chain bridge was closed to pedestrians so it became a bit longer and the sun was out so also a bit hotter. Good to get a handle on the distances and where things are. Saw the memorial to those killed by the Nazis in the war. Apparently they were lined up on the bank, told to take their shoes off and shot. Quite a striking monument. Got back and needed some cooling off time then back out for tea. Thai - had to be. On the way back took in sunset on the Liberty Bridge.Read more

  • John BickerstaffImperial Capitals Bike Ride
    Day 10

    Some you win, some you lose.

    July 30, 2023 in Hungary ⋅ 🌧 21 °C

    Relatively lazy start to the day. Breakie was at 8 and the cycle could be anywhere from 36 - 55 miles depending on the weather and the forecasts were not promising. Checked out & almost got away without paying. She came dashing out after me. Not that it was that pricey. It was at that point the rain came. Sheltered for a while but at some point it was a grin and bear it situation because there was no imminent prospect of better. A matter minutes and I was soaked. A matter of a couple of miles and a pot hole and the first puncture of the trip. Some vague shelter under a tree and some road side bike servicing I claimed to enjoy - pah! Was a swift replacement inner tube job except when back on the road there was a regular thud. Checked that no spokes had gone - the wheel was still true(ish) - think the pothole buckled the other way and it was both annoying and concerning. Nothing to be done though, other than worry. Pushed onto to the solitary stop - the Pancho Arena - one of the most unique football stadiums in the world, built for a 3rd tier (at best) team. It just happens to be the president's home town - I'm saying nothing more... A bit further than expected but in a village a stadium kind of stands out. Followed signs for home and away fans & no-one was at the gate so just sailed through. Started the usual circumnavigation of the stadium and as luck would have it, there was a gate open. Parked up and had a little explore. A lady went through at the same time & said nothing. A couple of other people were around and equally ignored me. Carried on to the front, quite unique. Took in the statue of Puskas and the private parking spot of the president right by the VIP entrance. Carried on round to where I was planning to come in and was roundly shooed out and away as was a Swiss guy I got chatting to. The guard wasn't for tourists taking photos. Told him there wasn't a guard at the other entrance & wished him luck. Clearly luck evens out, not that the rain stopped, nor the thumping from the wheel. Ah well. Classic rolling terrain and rain - all felt very British and mad drivers getting way too close. On the last climb into Budapest, some old guy greeted me at the summit with a round of applause. Wouldn't get that in the UK. Downhill to the hotel and dryness.Read more

  • John BickerstaffImperial Capitals Bike Ride
    Day 9

    A strange Hungarian version of St Helens

    July 29, 2023 in Hungary ⋅ 🌙 22 °C

    Post ice cream, it was back over the border to Hungary and the bike lanes continued though in places they were labelled as tractor / horse and cart lanes - no matter at least the mad drivers weren't my concern. Getting across the numerous level crossings however was - lethal. Next stop was the lakeside resort of Tata - lunch stop and with only 10 to go. Settled down in a shady spot by the lake, watched the comings & goings both on the lake and lakeside. Very pretty - also quite busy. From here Tatabanya was signposted but strangely it was unclear when it began. Before getting to the hotel I went through various districts (ish) and none seemed central. Lots of Soviet looking tower blocks then in a stone's throw you seemed to be back in the sticks. Just down the hill from the hotel were three supermarkets all next to one another & nothing else. That is apart from the athletics stadium the hotel overlooked and the mining museum round the corner from Aldi. Clearly it was formerly a mining town but felt more like lots of little towns. On arrival the provincial theme continued - Not a word of English & she wasn't keen on Google's attempts either. At the moment Google isn't doing so well for me. In fairness she hunted down the AIRCON remote for me. Once cooled down decided to have a little look at the mining museum. Unsurprisingly no-one spoke English though one of the other people visiting suggested she'd translate the tour guide. Didn't think that was fair on her so photographed the map & key and mooched on my own. Interesting window on life in Soviet times. Back to the hotel & thunder was rumbling as was an athletics meet. As the heavens opened I sat on the balcony watching the athletes compete in the rain. Decided to opt out of walking to the rather distant restaurants that might or might not be open according to Google. Lidl was definitely open and close enough.Read more

  • John BickerstaffImperial Capitals Bike Ride
    Day 9

    Hopping over the border.

    July 29, 2023 in Slovakia ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

    An alfresco breakie for once this trip and not a bad spec either in the hotel courtyard. Once packed, had a little mooch around Gyor then headed off. Wasn't long before the cycle lanes began & this time we weren't talking a mess of gravel. The surface was superb and didn't peter out. Negotiated some industrial stuff and then it was into the rural heartland. For a while the route followed a little river and this is more, albeit naively, what I expected from the Danube Way. Crossing back and forth, fields filled with different crops and exploring little villages. Made it to the first main stop - just under half way by about 10ish. Good going. A 1900's ish fort, which according to Google was closed. On arrival (just in case) the greeting was soldiers being shouted at (or was it me?) Bit uneasy. Saw some people walk past them and be ignored so it looked like it was open. Well done Google again. Had an interesting little explore, watching the people play at being soldiers and yet another view of the Danube. Onwards & back across the border to Slovakia again to Europa Court - a plaza modelled on the architectural styles of each European country. Had an ice cream and enjoyed the mist spray coolers.Read more

  • John BickerstaffImperial Capitals Bike Ride
    Day 8

    Hungry in Hungary

    July 28, 2023 in Hungary ⋅ ☁️ 25 °C

    Surprised to see drab, grey skys. At least the most was made of the sunshine yesterday. Bizarre mixture of things for breakfast & no rolls to cadge for lunch. Still, a relatively early start. Across the tram and bike bridge which had seated quiet areas half way across & when you think about it as bridges go it is relatively quiet. Even had a guy doing some painting. Once off the bridge the cycle lanes were hit & miss. When resorting to the road, again the shoulder was erratic in quantity to the point werey there was none & the verge was used. Relieved to hit the cycle route. First stop - Gerulata Roman fort. Got there to find it closed. In fairness it did look a little underwhelming. Pushed on towards the Danubiana Modern Art Museum. Not really my thing but the surroundings looked nice. On arrival, again it looked closed but thankfully not. Decided to bite the bullet and ignore the jazz music being piped in. From the roof you got a sense of it almost being an island & it was quite tranquil. A lot of the stuff was a bit pretentious but it was a nice walk / break from cycling. There were some sun loungers down by the river which helped the relaxation. And I learned something - Andy Warhol was of Slovak heritage - his birth name was Warhol's, with both his parents being from Slovakia. Only about 10 miles down 40 to go and the vast majority was straight as a die along the Danube. Sounds idyllic - cycling along the river but it became a little tedious. Little things became the focus - watching the swifts dancing around catching insects. The grasshoppers jumping out of my way. Pings as they hit the spokes & thuds if it was the panniers. One landed on the handlebars - realised its mistake and scarpered. Ended up racing one of the barges & made it to the lock complex 1st. Watched it go through, which was interesting. All this & not a shop in sight. Definitely hungry & thirsty. Google suggested a shop just off the route - assured it was open. It was not. Pushed on over the border & was given the choice - motorway or shitty gravel track. Given how much of a bully boy the police looked at the border, gravel was chosen. Amazed at no puncture & still no shop. First shop located with 7 miles to go. The shop keeper recounting a Queen song to me - happy soul - the shop itself seemed a little forlorn. Pop and chocolate to get me through. Priority on arriving in Gyor was rehydration salts. Not enough drink & too much sweating.Read more

  • John BickerstaffImperial Capitals Bike Ride
    Day 7

    Brilliant Bratislava.

    July 27, 2023 in Slovakia ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C

    Just the small matter of 7 miles to Bratislava. Checked in and located my 'pod' - a more secluded version of a dorm - there are 10 pods in the room but you wouldn't know it. Cleaned up & off to explore. Headed down to the UFO observation deck, so called because it looks like a UFO. Ambled through the old town taking in the Cumil statue in honour of the country's sewage workers. Lots of shady green spaces and pedestrian areas - all very civilised. No queue at all for the observation deck which was good. Cursed not taking my glasses but still some stunning views. Back down and thoughts of tea. Further down the river had been recommended as a possible area & what do you know - there was a Wagamama. Nice stroll along the river, past the 'beach' Noodles by the river & in the sun. Happy days. Took a different route back taking in the inverted pyramid that is the Slovak Radio building and the water based madness that is freedom square. All in all, really like Bratislava - very walkable and pretty place.Read more

  • John BickerstaffImperial Capitals Bike Ride
    Day 7

    The Iron Curtain

    July 27, 2023 in Slovakia ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C

    Curiously, I entered Austria on a cycle bridge and left that way as well. On this occasion, the Freedom Cycle bridge, had been talked about for decades but only enacted in 2012. The original route missed this and Devin Castle out. Would've been a mistake. Ummed and ahhed about paying to go in. But the views from the higher castle were stunning - all with the backdrop of the Danube. Caught a glimpse of the bridge with the help of a telescope - too many trees around it. Around here, there were a number of memorials to those who lost their lives trying to get across the border during communist rule. The heart of Europe monument was made with barbed wire from the fences. Had a late lunch watching the epically big cruisers battle against the current of the Danube.Read more

  • John BickerstaffImperial Capitals Bike Ride
    Day 7

    Korean camera carnage.

    July 27, 2023 in Austria ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

    Route had been adjusted to try and have a bit of a mooch around Vienna, without fearing for a soaking. For once the weather played. Just the small matter of figuring out Vienna's bike lane setup. They can be superb, vanish, allow you to go down 1 way roads but not always. They can be pavement, sometimes indicated but again not always. And as for the cobbles and tram lines - the devil has a hand in those bastard inventions. Took in the ornate roof of Stephan's Cathedral - didn't climb but have many moons ago. Up the hill to Belvedere Palace - scooted round the parks - v posh. As for the Koreans taking endless photos with endless poses - not impressed. As it happened the SATNAV on the way out took a route past the Rapid Vienna stadium. The vast number of lorries suggested something was happening. The characters queuing suggested it wasn't something to my taste - Rammstein as it turned out. Again, a gate open, but guarded this time. Chanced my arm and the bloke was wavering but the women with him jumped in with a flat no. Nothing lost, though it would've been interesting to see. Now to getting across the Danube - and the spiral access to the bridge was great fun on the way down. All a slow start to the day in terms of distance. Flat market farming land, a tailwind, well maintained road & little to distract meant the next 20 miles rattled along very quickly. A final Austrian bus stop break and a final Austrian palace. Then the small matter of the border.Read more

  • John BickerstaffImperial Capitals Bike Ride
    Day 6

    Soaked again.

    July 26, 2023 in Austria ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    Ominous sounds of rainfall were heard throughout the night so it was with some trepidation the curtains were drawn. Damp but not raining. Breakfast, grabbed bike & paid. Back down to the Danube for that was the basis of the next 3 or so days cycling - should be flat. Looked like there was a tailwind into the bargain. Quickly into my stride but all that came to a grinding halt - there was a guy squatted by his bike hammering away with what turned out to be a stone. Stopped & offered help. Darius was on a 4 month cycle without any tools. I hid my horror (I think) and offered the use of my sparse kit. We botched it up but his front carrier needed refitting. We chatted away trying to ignore the annoying noise and he made a sharp exit at the next town hoping for a bike shop. Ambled away for a little - saw a huge carp jump out the water. Crossed one of the many hydro-electric damns and spotted a nearby pier to try and get a better view - not chained off. Just as I left a family approached - the little lad instantly wanted to wander over seeing that I had - parents didn't look keen. Big kid... Flat with a tailwind meant the miles rattled off and was only disturbed by some uber professional cyclists zooming past me then slowing up. All matching gear no idea. Just before stopping for lunch, coming off the main path a deer darted in front of me - not sure who was more shocked. Lunch was with around 12 to go. Settled down by a lake just as a game old lady was heading in for a dip. Looked cold - she maintained not. She was impressed by the idea of cycling from Prague to Budapest - I maintained it wasn't so much. Pondered climbing upto the nearby castle but apparently it was closed and you couldn't get to see the impressive views. Saved me a climb I guess. Approaching Vienna and the first spots of rain were felt. Managed to shelter under an underpass. Was I going to be lucky - nope. Managed to get a bit lost & while trying to decipher the SATNAV the heavens opened. Absolutely drenched before I could even look for a bus stop. Glad to get to the hostel to dry out. Early tea at the hostel and then chanced my arm going back out to the big wheel. Be rude not to. Thought about heading to one of the palaces after but felt a few spots so dashed back. As it happened it didn't rain.Read more

  • John BickerstaffImperial Capitals Bike Ride
    Day 5

    The glorious bus stops of Lower Austria

    July 25, 2023 in Austria ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

    Throughout the night it was forecast for thunderstorms. Nothing materialised and all was dry when I woke up. Decided to make a quick dash into town to make use of the bike service zone. If nothing else a full on foot pump should do wonders for my tyres. Managed to get back in the dry. Every little helps. Epic breakie negotiated, decided to push on ASAP only to encounter roadwork issues. Tried translating the warning sign & Google wasn't exactly crystal clear. Asked a passing old lady & she seemed to suggest it was ok. Again, something might have got lost in translation. it was ok if cycling on a gravel road is your thing - I've cycled on worse ... in the the last 24 hours. By now the first few spots were falling and it wasn't long before I'd be sampling the first of many bus stops in my magical mystery tour of the bus stops of Lower Austria. This was merely an overhang from a workshop - poor. Eventually eased & I made it to Zwettl - next bus stop. More lengthy, functional and view of a tyre workshop. By now the rain was pretty grim and the forecasts were equally grim. So after about 30 mins of waiting & hoping I bowed to the inevitable soaking. What was decided was that the long route was binned off. Unfortunately the climb count went up. Couple of climbs in, soaked and hungry, another bus stop - flowers, view and even a phone - proper job... Lots of rolling stuff and eventually the rain did subside. All that was left to decide was steep b road or more shallow a road with manic drivers. Ended up mixing it up. Final climb 8 miles from home - downhill all the way, except there was a bit of a cock-up. In changing the route I hadn't checked the final destination & it took me to the hotel I'd originally planned to stay at - the opposite side of town. Got a sinking feeling when signs advertising it appeared. Never mind, the sun was out. Checked in - big room, cooking facilities and stiflingly hot. Borrowed receptions fan. Washed myself and clothes then off to explore. Down to the Danube. On the way passed an Aldi & had a brainwave - cook some pasta - easy. Had a short walk along the river and then picked some bits for tea. Should've thought. Got back & not a single bit of kit & the microwave wasn't working. Fuming. Went out to find reception was closed. What to do. Quick dash back to Aldi to pick up a cheap baking tray. Had a short cycle a bit further towards where the route should have come into Krems. Then back for some bodged pasta. Wasn't bad.Read more

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