John Bickerstaff

John Bickerstaff

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Cycling Southern Spain John Bickerstaff
Fog, fierce winds & firey heat
August 1, 2018 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 33 °C
The profile suggested a fairly easy day (& rather long) The surprising presence of fog suggested the fierce temperatures mights also be tempered. How wrong I could be. To a point the temperature was bearable for a little longer - clocked 30 miles reasonably quickly. That's where the wheels fell off - not literally, but not far off. The inevitable dirt track wasn't wholly surprising, what was was the gate at the end ... that was locked and then the depressing sinking feeling of a tyre deflating. Opted to do repairs at the gate on the off chance someone would appear & let me out - they didn't. The first of many detours. The vast majority of the day consisted of endless miles of cycling roads surrounded by greenhouses - the very definition of intensive farming & very tedious cycling. To top it off a vicious wind had blown up & it was a direct headwind. It looked like it would be pretty much all the way as well. The only respite tended to be in urban areas - which also offered a vague degree of interest. Almeria, the main city offered a park dedicated to victims of terrorism & a renovated train line used for quarrying. From there it was across the Cabo de Gato National Park, though that seems a little generous, more a seemingly endless barren scrub land. But hey whatever floats your boat. A couple of breaks purely out of need - no shade. Managed to get 1 mile of tailwind with about 8 miles to go. As it transpired it was 6 - satnav miscounted again. Checked in - in Spanish - very friendly host. Aircon & swim cooling off combo. Las Salinas is not the biggest but a little explore & a huge fish supper.Read more
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Cycling Southern Spain John Bickerstaff
False flats & flies
July 31, 2018 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C
Another early start, in theory to beat the heat. Some chance. Left the hotel in darkness & it was on the verge of hitting 20° That said it was pleasant enough cycling apart from all the red lights. Inevitably things headed upwards along with the sun. The gradients weren't too steep and on arriving at Lanjaron the high street offered something of a surprise. It's entire length shaded by an length of tarpaulin - flags dotted in for decoration. Would that they could do this up the imminent mountain. Clearly things get seriously hot here. No time to visit the Honey museum, unfortunately. Got to make as much progress as possible by 11. That said at the current pace it was looking likely that I would just be hitting the base of the big mountain pass at that time. 14 miles of up in the midday heat - mad dogs and Englishmen. Qualify for one of those if not a very patriotic one. Satnavs can be something of a mixed blessing - showing the profile isn't great but can't be resisted. Seemingly flattening out with miles of climbing to go provokes hope only to innevitably be dashed. Breaks were strategically placed wherever shade could be found - temp differences being around 10°. Between was something of a crawl - no chance of outpacing the delightful flies. Eventually made the summit which on arrival was 1300m. Following lunch the Satnav had changed its mind - 1280m. Don't think I'd eaten enough to cause a mountain to sink 20m. From here it was the joyous knowledge of 12 miles downhill all the way to the hotel. As they say 'a technical descent' full of switchbacks and hairpins. No chance of silly speeds (that was earlier in the day) God knows how hot the wheel rims got though - fast, brake, fast, brake repeat ad nauseam. By the end my hands were aching. Checked in and promptly plonked myself in front of the aircon. Once some semblence if coolness had been acquired time for a little explore & swim.Read more
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Cycling Southern Spain John Bickerstaff
Scorchio
July 30, 2018 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 32 °C
Stupid early wake up - 6am flight - 4am check-in - 3am set off from home 2.30 wake-up = grumpy John. All went smoothly enough until check-in ... massive queue & sudden announcement for the final call for check-in to Granada (110 mins before departure) not happy - anyone intending to fly had to go to desks 38-39. Looked & no-one was there - happier. Got there & dumped the bike allbeit at the second attempt - first outsized belt had packed up. Rest of it was something of a sleep deprived haze. Bodes well for safe cycling (good job there's a helmet to hand) Handily was on the back row - first off and barely was affected by the epically long immigration process for an American / African couple - only 1 officer on duty. Bike was first off & almost got it built before the bus had departed for town. A fee little adjustments & a few dirt tracks but all in all a nice little loosener. That said things were getting hot. Managed to check-in early & had a quick dip to cool off. Despite the heat it seemed rude not to have a look around. Followed the hotel map through the Gothic quarter towards Mirador St Nicholas which offered great views of the Alhambra. Bit of a hike - but worth it. Decided I ought to have a look around the Alhambra - another big hike in 39° heat & not worth it - they'd sold out. Appatently they can sell out months in advance. Ambled back admiring a bizarre tepanyaki style ice cream maker - ludicrously expensive - so it was literally admire. Much busier at the hotel so no cooling off in the pool yet...Read more
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Santander & Picos de Europa John Bickerstaff
Airport worries
June 10, 2018 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C
An early text from easyjet complained of French air traffic control strikes, again so we were braced for delays. Quick breakie, tidy & pack - out by 10. Rather than spend time here & risk cutting it fine at the airport, it was decided to head up the coast to Bilbao & head to a beach near there. The forecast was better there anyway. Motorways were pleasingly empty especially going through Bilbao itself. Approaching the coast there was a sudden inundation of walkers in purple t-shirts. Seems it was an annual charity hike along the coastal path. Stop at a crossing and there was an endless stream of people. Patience. Parked up & finished off the remnants of our supplies for lunch in the sunshine. Path down to the beach seemed to have suffered a little storm damage - a puny bit of tape blocked the way down. Judging by the steady stream of surfers coming & going, this was something of a tick box blockage. Chose to ignore - Liz played by the rules & chose life. As it happens it was perfectly safe & the surfers were having a ball. Back at the car we sought out toilet facilities but baulked at the prohibitive parking fees so cut to the chase & headed to the airport. Miraculously easyjet had managed to catch up on the predicted delay so all went relatively smoothly apart from baggage reclaim at Manchester. Useless place.Read more
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Santander & Picos de Europa John Bickerstaff
It could almost be Cornwall...
June 9, 2018 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 19 °C
A relatively upbeat forecast & the option of having breakfast outside proved to be a shock to the system. Once the various courses had been negotiated (muesli, toast, fruit) we, eventually, headed for the beach. The plan being to have a couple of hours at the beach, come back for lunch when the sun was at its fiercest and then go to San Vincent for a walk along the beach. La Franca was as gorgeous as last time and only maginally busier. Plenty of basking, swimming & reading. Throughout the week the constant comment has been how wherever we were could've been Cornwall - both appearance & the changeable nature of the weather. A couple of hours in & Liz was needing a break so along with others heading off for an epic Spanish lunch we made tracks & not 10 mins had passed before things were clouding over. Back at the cottage lunch was taken outside but it was a stubborn thing (ie 1 of us) Again the stubborn streak - persevered with the walk at San Vincent despite the looming black clouds. Miraculously there was only the odd drop of rain but it was a bit blowy - kits surfers were loving it.Read more
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Santander & Picos de Europa John Bickerstaff
More English than England
June 8, 2018 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 20 °C
Just a little rain in the night & no real suggestion of better or so it seemed. Lazy breakie & a book finished - forecast suggested coastal & to the east might be better so decided to give it a go. A couple of options - Santillana del Mar (not by the sea) historic & scenic village - cloudy option. Suances - surf beach option - not likely. Not a huge drive to Santillana - the challenge it seemed would be finding a parking spot that we understood whether to pay or not. The location found had a pay & display but no instructions. One car had a ticket - no one else did - we were confused. We gave it a miss & went to Suances sunny or not & it most definitely was not. Parked up, found some food & picniced on the beach - bit breezy. That done, had a walk along the coast to Roco Blanco - some nice walks around the headland which unsurprisingly had a white rock. By the time we were back in town the sun was making a miraculous appearance. Enjoyed a final walk along the beach and waited patiently while a couple of old biddies got in the way of my photo. On the way back the heavans opened - sunny in Liverpool & crap in Spain. Not HP.Read more
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Santander & Picos de Europa John Bickerstaff
Going Underground
June 7, 2018 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C
Leisurely start to the day, part laziness, part grim looking weather. The forecast suggested things may improve but it didn't look hopeful. Muchos reading, lounging & lunching by which time brightness was beginning to take hold - lunch on the decking boded well. With a certain amount of trepidation we headed for the local beach - not far if the it goes pear shaped. Thankfully it did not. That said there was another school party disturbing the peace. Had a little wander - explored a little cave - intrigued a couple of the boys - not sure leader was too fussed about them doing the same. Map of the area suggested something of a cave system at low tide & a rock that looks like a gorilla. Decided to hang around in the sun for a while & as the tide subsided a little exploration was in order (well for one of us) First obstacle: get round to the next bay - much wading & phone above head height. A cave entrance could be seen & with phone flashlight there might be a chance to explore - sea was still a bit high. Ventured in and the system did cut through to a beach beyond - still needed to wade & would've been a struggle without some light. Tooks some photos inside & that was something of a mistake - the battery decided at that most opportune of moments to give up on me. Cue a battery change in the most inappropriate of places. Just about got away with it and made my way back to give the class leader another headache - more kids eyeballed me exiting the cave - was that eyes raised heavenwards. Back to Liz & no dozing on the beach today. Eventually the crap weather caught up with us - back home & a little explore down by the river. The local area's willow trees are a protected area or at least I think that's what the map says...Read more
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Santander & Picos de Europa John Bickerstaff
Gaudi's whim
June 6, 2018 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C
Woke up to sun streaming through the windows - can't last. But amazingly it looked like it might. Breakie done & suncream applied - the clouds rolled in. And we rolled out - off to Comillas - one of Gaudi's first buildings, other assorted nice buildings and a beach. Amazingly the town proved to be equally as quiet as San Vincent yesterday. Parked up pretty much by El Capricho de Gaudi (Gaudi's Whim) & proceeded to take the long way round to the main entrance. Nice enough walk. Entry fee was only 5€ & that included a guided tour if we wanted - we'll see - if the intro video was anything to go by it would architecture overload. Had a little explore & some of the detailing was nice. But at the main entrance we saw the guided tour - 10 mins later having been round the garden they were still at the main entrance, the guide still wittering on about the entrance - not that nice. Headed off to get some food - usual stuff but rejected first supermercado - absence of cherries. Didn't make the beach - park & then explored the rest of the town (as the sun departed) The beach had the obligatory school party - didn't stop the snoozing.Read more
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Santander & Picos de Europa John Bickerstaff
Good day sunshine
June 5, 2018 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C
Being woke up in the night by rain didn't bode well. Foreboding clouds at breakfast equally so. Lots of fruit for breakie & a mildly optimistic weather forecast helped the mood. Decided to head to San Vincente de la Barqeura - a pretty port town with some great beaches, apparently. On the way patches of blue came & went, lasting only fleetingly. Located free car parking & headed for the visitor centre at the lighthouse - closed. Detour down to the harbour & took in the hotel quarter - no-one about, though the way the weather has been, no great surprise. Back to town & toilet quest (bus depot) By now the sun was doing it's best so the beach was calling along with food. A pleasant picnic, a safe distance away from the massive school party & ample sunshine (as it transpires too much for a certain person) Took a walk along the massive beach & managed a first swim of the year - bracing. The theory was that the coast was clear & once we went back up into the hills it would cloud over. Thus we prevaricated by way of an ice cream. Pleasingly on our return the deck chairs were of use - make the best of the sun - might not come back...Read more
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Santander & Picos de Europa John Bickerstaff
Arrival.
June 4, 2018 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 18 °C
No photos - something of a mundane day but in a good way. First task - big food shop - well, a big cherry shop and other assorted items for lunch & tea. Rain on departure & rain on return. Quick check on Liz's flight and the routing to Bilbao airport. Texted the owner to see how to turn the heating on - un poco frio. Headed out to pick Liz up - left plenty despite her flight being delayed the almost obligatory 30 mins at Manchester. Roads were fine & the phone satnav directed painlessly around Bilbao. Found a village nearby to sit & await Liz's arrival. Scooted around the departure drop off a few times
(15 mins free) - phoned & found she was waiting at arrivals. Sorted & headed back into the rain for Bilbao was dry.Read more
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Santander & Picos de Europa John Bickerstaff
When the rain comes
June 3, 2018 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 17 °C
Today was all about getting sorted for Liz's arrival - pick up the car, sort out the cottage & get food in. All well & good but it transpired, on closer inspection the closest supermarket with opening hours to suit was in Barcelona - not vastly local. Sunday trading laws here are a little different. Looks like bread & water for tea. Opted against walking to the airport - the 4 miles was walkable but the looming clouds & grim forecast suggested the airport bus would be a better bet. This did mean a massively early arrival. Had some dubious pasta to pass the time & supplement the bread & water diet. Dinky Fiat located & various bumps & scrapes documented. Time to pick up bags from the hotel & head for the cottage. On the way out spotted a Carrefour/petrol station combo - might be open. It was. Unfortunately the only ready meal available another type of dubious pasta. Better than bread & water ... maybe. Village located easily & perfectly on time. Circled round the village - passed a guy twice & we both eventually realised that he was the guy I needed to find. Quick tour & unload of the car. First impressions - very nice & peaceful ... & wet.Read more
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Santander & Picos de Europa John Bickerstaff
Enforced socialisation
June 2, 2018 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 11 °C
No escape from being sociable, or at least pretending. In a fit of optimism signed up for the day trip in to the Picos & swiftly regretted it afterwards but it'll do me good... Grudgingly particpated in the market activity - speculated that if aliens were amongst us would we be able tell them apart from some the bizarre looking things that were on display in the seafood stalls. For all we know some Spaniard is chowing down on an emissary from Alpha Centauri & he thinks it's a crab. My mind wasn't focussed. The day trip was to take in 2 stops - Potes, a mountain village(ish) & Fuente de, a cable car up into the Picos proper. On the way we went past the village we'd be staying in so that would give me a little navigational help. The road to Potes was windy, bendy overload but very dramatic. On arrival it was already lunch time - not a fast process. Once done, inevitably the tower with a view had closed for the day. Ho hum. Took a walk along the river & mooched around town. Still - should be views in the Picos - assuming the cloud holds off - bit hit & miss (showers & sun in Potes) The cable car sped us upto the snow level (temp going down from 21 to 12) & thankfully some stunning views of the mountains & the alpine pastures. Weird to think of snow in Spain in June. Only time for a little walk around & then back down. Both places deserved longer really - the joys of coach party day trips.Read more
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Santander & Picos de Europa John Bickerstaff
Spanish headaches
June 1, 2018 in Spain ⋅ 🌫 16 °C
There's a reason why Green Spain is green & while the UK is basking in glorious sunshine (for once) Northern Spain seems to be shrouded in a semi-permanent blanket of Mancunuian greyness. Still Monday - Thursday was all about the Spanish. 3 hour blocks of language interspersed with activities designed to integegrate & socialise in equal measure - urgh. When the rain let up that called for an escape to the coastal path - either running or walking depending how quickly escape was called for or how much head clearing was needed - language study promoted some belting headaches (not hangovers!) The bright side was the fruit - breakfast and snack time - cherries & nectarines were heavenly. Day off on Friday was miserably wet - more so. Report writing - get ahead of myself.Read more
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Cycling Green Spain John Bickerstaff
A final dart.
April 22, 2018 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C
A nice lazy breakfast for once & then the task of packing both bike & paniers. That sorted a final mooch around Bilbao was called for. As luck would have it the transfer mini-bus was already there - for the first time however they were asking for tickets & a German couple were getting arsey with the driver. They only had 45 mins before their flight left - Germans not being efficient & on time - shocking. Told the driver not to worry - I'd wait for the next one. Queued up for a ticket & I'm sure to spite the Germans he made a point of coming & getting me when it became apparent there was space. Got a glare when I got on - not my fault you didn't leave enough time. Bus to town was waiting as well - all going swimmingly - on the way in examined the map to try & find something new. Unbelievably there was a tram up the nearest hill that offered great views of the city - how had that been missed. Had to be done. No queue, a couple of euros & a superb view - can't say fairer than that. Back down & a little mooch around the old town - bit of a market frenzy - flowers, pets, junk - you name it but not food. Found an ice cream place to tide me over till the airport. The ticket issue raised the issue of whether it might be slightly more difficult getting the bike to the airport so decided to give a little extra - so headed back working on the assumption that the buses wouldn't be as clockwork as before. They were. Oh well get to the airport & get some lunch. Got my ticket for the final transfer & unsurprisingly wasn't asked for it. But boot was too full for the bike - promised he'd be back in 10 mins. No hurry. As it turns out there reaaly wasn't - easyjet had cocked up - 45 min delay. Plenty of time at the airport - nice. Flight full of drunk Leeds guys on a stag do - two almost got arrested at immigration - trying to take his stamp. Then three got chucked of the flight - god knows what for but I can guess. All that delayed it further. Got to do some planning when I get in. Hmmm...Read more
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Cycling Green Spain John Bickerstaff
Summit cheat.
April 21, 2018 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C
Early start to get to Bilbao, get checked in & find a stream of the match. Again something of a chilly start & again something of a worry about elements of the journey - the main one being that there seemed no way over the river other than on motorways - so unlike the Spanish. There was a routing but it looked dodgy at best - gravel track for 3 miles. Turned out to be a great little cycle way - of which Vitoria was well blessed - admittedly it did turn to gravel in the last few miles but that compared to some of the horrendously busy roads I've 'enjoyed' over the last week - I'd take any day. May not have said that if I'd had a puncture. It's a while since I've seen so many cyclists & not just because it was Saturday. Has to be said the friendliest havw been around Bilbao - elsewhere I've been studiously ignored. Steady & easy climbing for the next few miles to Barazar Pass - just over 600m. It was a bit of a fraud - Vitoria was at about 500m so not a huge amount of climbing. I like to think of it being banked from the ride to Pamplona - loads of climbing & no descent. All that descent was today - yay. From there it was pretty much downhill all the way to the hotel, who thankfully were ok with me having an early check-in & threw in a free drink. The less said about the footie the better. By the time that was over the restaurant had closed so headed into town for a little explore & hopefully loosen up my knee - the airport bus was dead handy for town. Strictly speaking explore isn't correct having been before but it was good to be off the bike for a while. Wandered & snacks consumed headed back past a workers protest against H&M (noisy) and claimed my free beer.Read more
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Cycling Green Spain John Bickerstaff
A relatively pain free & 'easy' 70 miler
April 20, 2018 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C
Not sure what troubled more - how my aching limbs would respond to another 70 miles; whether Spanish roads would play ball or whether the alleged relatively limited climb would prove to be decepetive. Decided to get breakfast done & dusted - an early start can't hurt. Busy road out of Pamplona - bit chilly - had to fleece up for a little while, well till the climbing started. For a good while the road seemed to plough through a long valley with mountains either side - keep it that way. A couple of short breaks in pretty little villages with hideous eyesore industrial estates on the outskirts. It was after one of these that there was the only road issue & this time it was google to the rescue. Route that was supposed to carry on stopped at gated services. Referred to phone & found a way round that didn't involve the motorway. Vitoria-Gasteiz was a nice enough place - lots of parkland on the centre & a crocodile (not real) outside the cathedral. Hotel was 4 miles out of town on a industry / retail park so my site seeing would have to be before checking in. Suited me - rest & recuperation...Read more
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Cycling Green Spain John Bickerstaff
Two tripple poppers in a day.
April 19, 2018 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C
What could possibly go wrong - an early start, route all sorted to avoid the excessive hilliness of my original plan and the weather was looking spot on. Scooted through San Sebastian without too much trouble, though I almost ended up on a motorway - oh the irony. The plan was to go up the coast to the border and take the main road to Pamplona. Google had suggested a shorter route but that was on motorways - thay should have been the warning but it was not headed. 20 miles in and in theory with only 44 to go, admittedly on a very busy road, and I'm informed bikes are not allowed - I'm assuming it was tunnel issues but if that's the case designate it as a motorway. Two choices - go back & do the orginal route amounting to a total of 110 miles or take a 25 mile detour into France & the Pyrenees - that isn't going to be flat but a total of 90 miles. Unsurprisingly there were some hefty ups - you know it's bad when your ears pop three times before the summit. Having made the decision, the concern was really maintaining supplies - it was going to have to be a little often but that required shop intervention & nothing had been viewed. Thankfully in a liitle village - Elizondo, there was an Eroski - open far more consistently than most. Another detour, another banning order & another tripple popper - an absolute pig. Even after all this there was still 40 or so miles to go. Plodded on & a good chunk of gradual down & flat helped. 15 miles to go & the first glimpse of Pamplona was sweet. As it happens probably the best - not the most inspiring of places. Good job as the hotel was a good 4 miles out of the city in an industrial estate.Read more
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Cycling Green Spain John Bickerstaff
Shade hopping
April 18, 2018 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 28 °C
Had a rude shock on getting down. Text message from LFC saying payment for the semi had failed. Stands to reason since Nationwide cancelled my credit card the first day I was away - great timing. Spent the next half hour trying to fixnd wifi so the booking could be completed. Ended up back at the hostel. Not the end if the world since the tram was in those parts. The Funicular was a bizarre set up - just get on - ticket office closed - pay at the top, and yet you have this fancy big building at the bottom. Picked my spot away from the kids - surprised how quiet it was, considering the beach was packed. The views from the top were, again very good. Decided against returning on the tram and walked back down. The lady on the entrance gate warned me of the journey time - whatever it was would've suited me. Back to the hostel to cool off & found that I'd been joined in the dorm by snorers - nice. Popped out to have a look at the Miramar Palace and gardens - lots of shade which was handy.Read more
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Cycling Green Spain John Bickerstaff
A tale of 2 vistas.
April 18, 2018 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C
The plan for the day was to take in the two hills at either side of San Sebastian's main bay. Initially to go up on the funicular before it got too busy. However the sun dictated otherwise so Monte Urgull & yet another JC statue. Breakie & then a wander & paddle along Onderrata & Concha beaches. The sea unsurpringly was just a little chilly. There were a range of paths up & decided on the most scenic - less steep. Learn from your mistakes. Where-ever you looked there was a stunning view of the beaches, city or sea. At the top was a free museum which I hoped led to a viewpoint, not that they gave any hint of this. Worth a try. Indeed, tucked away was a small sign suggesting there was a vista up a small winding flight if stairs. Result. On the way down balanced on a wall to get a view of the waves, slipped took a chunk if skin off my foot - which was nice.Read more
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Cycling Green Spain John Bickerstaff
My own back to front Camino
April 17, 2018 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C
From Ondarroa cue all sorts of up & down except now with the constant accompaniment of a fishy smell - Ondarroa was a big fish port and numerous boats came in while I was eating. Wagons were loaded & departed. At every bend or slope fishy water / juice streamed out the back - nice. At Orio I managed to find a cycle trail along the river - for once a useful way mark. All the way from Santander I've been seeing Camino signs though i can't think why - I'm going the wrong way. Anyway this was going the right way but created a dilemma - do I follow to the end & take the dodgy route (but shorter) or do I leave half way, add 3 miles and probably have slightly less climbing but busier road. Gambled on the dodgy - & lost. It was epically steep. Ended up pushing for probably 1 out of tge 3 miles of climbing. Then when finally the final 3 miles down hill to San Sebastian came I hit a pot hole & had a blow out. Not HP. Still with all that, got in at 5.45.Read more
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Cycling Green Spain John Bickerstaff
A very lumpy one.
April 17, 2018 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C
Was worried about a late start - as it happens there was someone at reception sorting breakfast - not that I was aware breakie was included (may have been extra) For all that only got away at 8.50 but every little helps. On the plane coming over I saw Mundaka & Guernica and it looked flat as a pancake between the two. It was not. And that kind of summed up the day. Guernica is infamous for being where first tried out his Blitzkreig strategy during the Spanish Civil War, however rather than targetting miltary or industrial areas they tragetted civilians. The Air Raid Musuem based at a factory that wasn't targetted looked an interesting stop but was closed. Pushed on & upwards - 3+ miles of climbing. Then down to the first of numerous ports with attached vast expanses of sandy beach. Quick explore & then on to the next - Ondarroa - likely lunxh break, assuming it had a supermercado. It did & a beach side picnic did the job even though it was a shade under half way.Read more
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Cycling Green Spain John Bickerstaff
Coastal treats
April 16, 2018 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C
From the bridge, just the small matter of getting to Saturday's hotel where I was hoping to leave my bike bag. Yet more industrial landacape to admire. Chatted to a French guy on a recumbant - just doesn't look safe to me. The receptionist started out as a jobsworth but either she saw how knackered I was or reason prevailed - he's on a bike - how big can it be? Anyway bike bag dumped - onwards to the coast. Some piggish hills between. They don't believe in hairpins here - just go straight up with slight bends so you can't fully appreciate how cruel they are being. Muchos sweating. Altitude signs are always good - got to be downhill. Wound up in Bermea, a nice harbour that was once the equal of Bilbao. Had a little explore and then onwards to Mundaka. On first sight a pretty coastal resort - beaches, surf, harbour - all good. Found the apartment & cleaned up. Having a kitchen meant less stress about where tk eat provided I could find a shop. Off out for a mooch & shop. Microwave paella wasn't going to be great...Read more
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Cycling Green Spain John Bickerstaff
Crossing by various means
April 16, 2018 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C
Earlier start than the hosts would've wished but he hid any displeasure he might have been feeling, very well. In fact he couldn't have been more hospitable - that said for all I know he could've been calling me all names under the sun. We muddled through - some very nice honey & fruit muesli. Loaded up & was assured that the weather would pick up. From the start things looked bleak - straight up hill & within a couple of miles roads didn't exist - twice. To top it off - big climb, only to find that the road had been closed for tree felling. All was not well with the world. Found a main road & battled with the traffic until I was taken under the wing of 2 wisened cyclists. They were quite taken with the bulkiness of my task & insisted I follow them tk a better route into Bilbao. And indeed it was - a cycle path that was as flat as a pancake - no mean feat around these parts. Mentioned about the Vizkaia Bridge & they made a detour to make sure I found it. At which point they scooted off happily waving - their work was done. The big deal about this bridge is that you ride a lift upto the top of the towers & see the workings. Oh & get great views of the estuary. Helps that the sun made it's first appearance. Took the bridge across & then walked back along the top - twice.Read more
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Cycling Green Spain John Bickerstaff
Coastal cycling with no coast.
April 15, 2018 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C
While having paid flights & accomodation all sorted should mean a certain sense of gratitude, having to hang round till 9 for a meeting didn't help my mood. In said meeting being told the feedback form couldn't be emailed didn't help. They got a rather curt level of feedback. Said my farewells & so began a week of lumpy cycling & rather rough & ready Spanish. Getting out of Santander wasn't the easiest nor most picturesque - industrial estates & shipyards aplenty. 18 miles in & I found myself merely at the opposite side of the estuary & pondered whether there was a ferry. Also began to wonder at what point shops would close on a Sunday. Pushed on - bound to come to more urban areas. Except I didn't. Water wasn't the problem - going along the Camino meant frequent water fountains / taps. Just after 1 came upon a very shut looking supermarket which happened not to be at all. Thankful for small mercies, stocked up & pushed. A couple of nice coastal cycle routes offered a little flat. Rain prompted lunch. Experienced a couple of resorts neither of which inspired - both very high rised - Laredo had the nicer beach & a nice old town but the rest was pig ugly. Castro Urdiales didn't have a great beach but seemed a little less over developed but still wasn't great. For all the cycling along the coast there was very little sight of the sea. Not great. That said the way the coast was treated @ the resorts I was glad to be staying in the country. Wasn't so happy when it became apparent the limited dinner options. Host was very hospitable - initial conversation reasonably understood & then he went off on one & I didn't have a clue. Still negotiated breakie from 9 to 8 so that isn't bad.Read more
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Cycling Green Spain John Bickerstaff
Scorchio or so it seemed
April 14, 2018 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 14 °C
Woke up to the sound of rain and this wad supposed to be the sunny day of the week. The morning involved a market task - the thought of treking into town to wander round a market didn't really, in the rain - even less so. Chunnered a bit but made the bus journey & participated. Once completed the entire group bar me & the apprentice headed out on coach trip up the coast. I was looking at doing a little more warming up for the main event. Mike was looking at watching the match. It be rude to leave him on his own so arrangements were made & off I went on my bike - bit further down the coast. Sat nav was doing some strange things bit made it to the Liencres Dunes wildlife park. Stunning beaches & an epic downhill to get there - Not good. Had a little mooch about & then found a cycle path down the coast. Maybe I could avoid the hill. As it turns out - no. But a little off road might have done it - not an option. Headed back for some late lunch & then to find the match. Easily done - same place as before & poor Mike ended up trying to keep up with someone who was drinking coke & water. Only one way that was going to end. Thankfully the boss turned up to take care of him & I could scoot off to pack. Got back & did a token bit of socialising & it transpires I'd got burnt - sunny but the wind was lethal.Read more
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Cycling Green Spain John Bickerstaff
Back on the bike
April 13, 2018 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 13 °C
Formal lessons done (until next time) things were a little more relaxed. A rather grey run along the beach suggested the weather wasn't going to be upto much. The plan was to take the bike out & check all was well - the rest were off for churos which would have been nice but deep fried donut type stuff wasn't an option. An short losener around town taking in some of the sights and the local stadium. Obligatory club shirt bought, headed back via the supermarket & beachside picnic. Pondered next option - the sun was trying it's best & the forecast suggested rain was very unlikely so decided to explore the local coast to the west. The nearby lighthouse offered a nice coastal walk. From there it was 7 miles to a little cove that was supposedly nice. A couple of miles in a the first drops (sporadically) began to fall. Decided to push - how bad could it get? Another little coastal walk and by the time I got back dark clouds were looming & the spits & spots had become a light drizzle. Time to hurry back & it was a race I was to lose. Not by much though - a mile or so off. Dried up & ensured I missed the Flamenco lessons. Had a really nice fish menu of the day.Read more
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