Day 11 - Fort Smith

After a few miles of driving, Wally felt something wasn’t right with the engine. It was running OK but with diminished power. He found an exhaust valve with almost zero clearance that had overheated. He adjusted it properly and wants to have it checked by a VW dealer at the next opportunity.

We refueled in Fort Smith and obtained information about the Wood Buffalo Park we would visit next. The Park Office was marked “Closed on Saturdays,” but by pure luck, the Fire Warden pulled up in his truck and let us in. He was accommodating and gave us the maps and information we needed.

He confirmed that it was too dangerous for us to drive further North. Oh well, at least we managed to reach the Arctic Circle!

The warden’s fire brigade consisted of 50 people, several small planes, and helicopters. In addition, they operate many observation towers throughout the Park and look for smoke. Everyone is connected via radio. Most fires are caused by lightning, the warden remarked.

By the end of the day, we were in Wood Buffalo Park and camped on Pine Lake, which was still partially frozen. We were surrounded by complete wilderness and heard only the crackle of the grill fire, the wind, and some birds chirping.

It was 10:30 PM, and the sun had just set. It looked like a twilight zone. Our dinner that evening was grilled pork chops with cabbage and potatoes. The hot tea tasted delicious and warmed our cold hands.Read more