Viveiro - Ortigueira - Cedeira

During the night, a gentle rain arrived, providing a welcome change after many days of sunshine. The forecast suggests that rain may accompany us for much of the remainder of our journey, although weather forecasts, like travel plans, are always subject to change.

Our day began on the outskirts of Viveiro, where we stopped for coffee at a small local café. The coffee was served in elegant ceramic cups produced by the Sargadelos factory we had visited the day before, a pleasant reminder of that experience.

Following the AC-100 northward, we headed toward the Cape Estaca de Bares lighthouse, the northernmost point of mainland Spain. Fortunately, the rain gradually eased, allowing us to enjoy the dramatic coastal scenery. Along the way, we drove through extensive eucalyptus forests, their distinctive fragrance filling the cool morning air.

Continuing past the coastal towns of Ortigueira and Cariño, we followed the DP-2205 into the mountains to the small village of Santo André de Teixido. Although light rain lingered, it did little to diminish the charm of this unique place. We visited the small church and spent some time talking with a friendly local woman named Carmen. To my delight, she was selling eucalyptus honey. Anyone who knows me knows that I have a weakness for good honey! 😂

From Santo André de Teixido, we continued toward Cedeira along a narrow and winding road that offered beautiful views of forests, pastures, and rolling hills. The landscape, with its grazing cows and elegant horses, reminded me in many ways of Switzerland’s Jura region.

Cedeira itself is a pleasant coastal town centered around its fishing harbor. By the time we arrived, light rain had returned, adding a touch of atmosphere to the afternoon.

Our accommodation for the night was Hotel Herbeira, located on a hillside overlooking the bay. We were warmly welcomed by the owner, Carmen, who showed us to our modern rooms with views of the swimming pool and the water beyond. Amusingly, this was the second Carmen we had met that day. Even more surprising, she turned out to have strong family ties to Santo André de Teixido. Once again, we were reminded of how small the world can be.

Since the town’s only fine dining restaurant happened to be closed that evening, we chose to dine at the hotel restaurant instead. It proved to be an excellent decision. We enjoyed a fresh mixed salad, a platter of local cheeses and prosciutto, warm bread, and a glass of wine. Simple food, well prepared, and exactly what we needed after another day of exploring Galicia’s beautiful northern coast.

Tomorrow, we continue our journey westward, eager to discover what new landscapes and experiences await us.En savoir plus