• Heinz Imhof
May – Jun 2023

Bilbao Spain

This vacation trip started on Tuesday, May 23, 2023, in Bilbao with a group of friends, intending to explore the North Coast of Spain, including the coastal mountains, and the Rioja wine region. The trip ended in Bilbao on June 17th. Read more
  • Trip start
    May 23, 2023
    Bilbao Airport - Santiago Calatrava Design
    First Pintxos

    Arrival in Bilbao, Spain

    May 23, 2023 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 64 °F

    Our adventure with American Airlines brought us to the vibrant city of Madrid, though our touchdown was fashionably late by an hour and a half. With only a tight window for navigating Immigration and catching our connecting train to Terminal 4 for the Iberia flight bound for Bilbao, we engaged in a sprint that rivaled an Olympic race. Luckily, luck was on our side, and we managed to reach the gate with just a few minutes to spare.

    Post-flight, our trusty Uber whisked us from the airport to our abode at Calle Prim 5. However, our jubilation was short-lived as we realized, moments after our driver's departure, that my phone and wallet had been inadvertently abandoned in the backseat.

    Our entry into the apartment complex was a bit of a puzzle, even after diligently following the check-in guidelines. Providentially, a kind tenant extended a helping hand, granting us access and guiding us to Apartamento Bajo-D. The door code operated seamlessly, revealing a charming, contemporary 2-bedroom apartment.

    Once connected to the online realm, I sprang into action, notifying Uber about the misplaced belongings and fortifying our credit and debit cards with a security lock.

    Around 5:00 PM, we took a leisurely stroll to a local bakery and a bustling food market to assemble provisions for tomorrow's morning feast. The enchanting Plaza Nueva beckoned, treating us to our inaugural encounter with Pintxos (also known as Tapas) accompanied by a delightful glass of wine. My proficiency in Spanish proved invaluable as we engaged with the warm-hearted locals; the bartender, hailing from Medellin, Colombia, added a touch of international camaraderie.

    As the clock struck evening, our companions Kurt and Renata from Switzerland graced us with their presence, arriving with a rental car in tow. We eased into the night together, unwinding with a shared glass of wine. 🍷 The joy of reunion was palpable, considering the long hiatus since the onset of the pandemic.

    Sleep eluded me, my mind restless, pondering my lapse in leaving the phone and wallet behind in the Uber. The fate of those items hung in the balance, with hopes that an honest soul among the subsequent passengers would ensure their return, either to Uber's Lost & Found or the Bilbao Police—an optimistic reverie, though not without its touch of wishful thinking.
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  • Iberdrola Dorrea Tower
    Guggenheim MuseumThe giant PuppyPintxosPintxosArriga TheatreRibera Market

    Bilbao, City Bus Tour

    May 24, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 59 °F

    The sky showcased an interplay of overcast conditions with occasional bursts of sunlight breaking through.

    With the thermostat expertly repaired, we wandered through the charming narrow lanes of historic Bilbao. Eventually, we settled ourselves at a restaurant in Plaza Nueva to relish Pintxos and savor coffee.

    On the opposite side of the Nervión River, we procured tickets for a ride aboard the Hop-on-Hop-off City Bus. This 40-minute excursion offered us a sweeping overview of the city's key attractions and landmarks. We opted for a second round to ensure no hidden gems escaped our notice, securing seats on the upper deck's front row. This privileged spot provided the perfect angle for capturing stunning photos and videos.

    Our collective enthusiasm was fueled by the captivating sights we encountered, leaving us eagerly anticipating the forthcoming two days of in-depth exploration in Bilbao. The city's immaculate streets and well-preserved structures left a lasting impression. The images below will eloquently fill in the finer details.

    Before returning to the apartment, we picked up a selection of breakfast items. To my surprise, the "Find My" app on my laptop indicated my phone's location was about 5 miles away in a suburb.

    Kurt and I promptly hailed an Uber and set off for the specified location without hesitation. Regrettably, our search yielded no results. Given the app's approximate location, the area was surrounded by three-story apartment buildings, rendering it plausible that the phone could be in any of them.

    In a display of kindness, the Uber driver contacted his dispatch office on my behalf. It was confirmed that yesterday's driver, Pedro Manuel, was unaware of the abandoned phone and wallet—subsequent passengers were likely the ones to have taken them.

    Although our return home was marked by disappointment and empty hands, we did manage to stop by the Bilbao Police Lost & Found to report the incident. The police personnel displayed utmost professionalism, albeit with a limited grasp of English. This circumstance afforded me a 45-minute exercise in practicing my Mexican Spanish!

    As night descended, we treated ourselves to more Pintxos and indulged in wine at a different restaurant in Plaza Nueva. The flavors were exquisite and left a lasting culinary impression.

    Our agenda for tomorrow involves visiting the iconic Guggenheim Museum, followed by a cable car ascent to Mount Artxanda for an aerial perspective of the cityscape.
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  • Guggenheim MuseumZubizuri Bridge by Santiago CalatravaFunicular Artxanda

    Bilbao, Guggenheim Museum

    May 25, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 64 °F

    Reflecting on my missing phone and wallet, I've considered their unfortunate disappearance. Unfortunately, the Bilbao Police informed me that the "Find My" location pointed to a neighborhood associated with Morrocan drug trafficking, making recovery seem unlikely. As a result, I took the necessary steps today: I suspended my Verizon phone and took measures to cancel my credit and bank debit cards. This chapter has now come to a close.

    Today, however, was a remarkable day!

    We embarked on a captivating walking route to the Guggenheim Museum, passing through charming neighborhoods adorned with small, family-owned shops catering to North African ethnic communities.

    Admission for seniors to the Museum was priced at €9.00. The Guggenheim visit itself was an awe-inspiring experience. While the artworks displayed inside by various artists were impressive, the true marvel lay in the captivating architecture of the building, both inside and out. I can hardly express how exceptional the design appeared to me—it was unlike anything I've encountered before. Each step I took revealed new perspectives, with the building's curves and lines constantly shifting (though I fear my description falls short). Perhaps the pictures I've shared can better convey the experience.

    After indulging in a coffee and a light snack at the Café, we departed the Museum and strolled along the riverside, crossing the one-of-a-kind pedestrian bridge designed by the talented Spanish architect Santiago Calatrava.

    We then hopped onto a cable car, which carried us to the summit of Mount Artxanda. We enjoyed a panoramic view of Bilbao from this vantage point, perfect for capturing stunning photographs.

    Upon returning to our accommodation, Kurt and I dedicated time to acquainting ourselves with the navigation system of our Mercedes-Vito Tourer passenger van, ensuring that we were well-prepared for our upcoming departure to San Sebastian on Friday morning.

    Our evening included a dinner reservation at 7:00 PM, delightfully set at the restaurant Victor Montes on Plaza Nueva (treating ourselves now and then is a pleasure). My Prosciutto appetizer and Seafood main course were nothing short of exquisite. Kurt and Renata graciously shared a delightful 2016 Tempranillo from the esteemed Rioja Region to accompany our meal.

    Our plans for tomorrow include a leisurely morning and a Mercado de la Ribera visit.
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  • Ribera Market
    Ribera MarketRibera MarketRibera MarketRibera MarketRibera MarketRibera MarketBilbao Cultural CenterBilbao Cultural CenterBilbao Cultural CenterBilbao Cultural CenterDepartment of Health

    Bilbao, Mercado Ribera

    May 26, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 68 °F

    Embracing the sun's warm embrace at a pleasant 77 degrees Fahrenheit, today unveiled its charm to us.

    Our journey led us to the captivating Ribera Market this morning. Nestled in an Art-Deco marvel spanning an impressive 10,000 square meters, this culinary haven boasts three floors with around 180 businesses. Picture this: small shops offering an array of fresh seafood, vibrant fruits, crisp vegetables, and an assortment of meats. The ambiance pulsed with local life as shoppers bustled about, a vibrant dance between vendors and patrons captivating our attention.

    Embarking on a 30-minute stroll, we traversed the river's edge, venturing through a neighborhood with Middle Eastern flair. Our quest led us to the Bilbao Cultural Center, a sprawling edifice resembling a city block. A juxtaposition of age and modernity, its exterior echoed history while the interior breathed innovation. Within its walls, a public library, community gym, and a rooftop terrace graced with an open-air swimming haven awaited. A showstopper was the transparent-bottomed pool, an architectural marvel allowing observers on the ground floor to glimpse its aquatic world from below.

    Intrigued by the enigmatic, our next halt was the Department of Health building. Clad in a seemingly random arrangement of black glass panels on a steel framework, its oddity drew our gaze.

    A sojourn at Banco Santander beckoned, a query about a Wells Fargo wire transfer lingering on my lips. The sentry shared that the bank's doors would close at 2:00 PM, awakening again at 8:30 AM on Monday. A chuckle-worthy notion that the whims of time would steer us to San Sebastian for the transaction.

    Post a refreshing beer interlude, our steps retraced to the apartment for a quick outfit metamorphosis and a rendezvous with the travel guide. The chosen dining spot bore a "Closed for Vacation" sign, leading us to a serendipitous encounter with Restaurant Horrobia, its inviting threshold embraced by our curious hearts.

    At 8:30 PM, we found ourselves solitary guests, contemplating whether we'd erred in our choice. But lo and behold, culinary excellence erased all doubt. The waiter shared the locals' secret: dinner's true stars tend to grace the scene after 9:00 PM. As our plates emptied, the restaurant swelled with merrymakers, its aura infectious. Beyond its walls, the ancient streets became a playground for the young, laughing and clinking glasses weaving a vivacious tapestry.

    Anticipation builds for the morrow, our compass pointing toward the coastal embrace of San Sebastián. Here, the next three nights will paint their own tales on the canvas of our journey.
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  • Gaztelugatxe Chapel
    Mercedes Vito Tourer (Diesel)Do you have reservations?Stop in LekeitioBest Pizza Ever!Pizzeria La Mina

    Bilbao - San Sebastián

    May 27, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 61 °F

    For those of you with an adventurous spirit, our chosen mode of transportation is a diesel-powered Mercedes-Vito Tourer passenger van, perfect for a comfortable journey.

    We set off from the vibrant city of Bilbao at approximately 9 AM, embarking on a northbound route that led us to the captivating Atlantic coastline. Our primary destination was the awe-inspiring Gaztelugatxe chapel, a unique structure perched upon a rocky islet. Connected to the mainland by a stone walkway evocative of the Great Wall of China, the chapel promised a remarkable experience.

    The landscape that unfolded before us was a feast for the eyes: undulating hills adorned with verdant pastures and charming small farms. This scene resembled the picturesque countryside of Switzerland, albeit with a twist—instead of the familiar pine, oak, and beech trees, eucalyptus forests graced the horizon.

    Our anticipation was palpable as we approached the trail entrance to Gaztelugatxe. However, our excitement met an unexpected hurdle when we were informed that a prior online reservation was required for weekend visits. A slight disappointment washed over us—why hadn't this crucial detail been mentioned in our travel guide? Undeterred, we opted for the shorter trail that led us to a lookout point. From there, we beheld a panoramic view of the sandy shoreline and the distant Gaztelugatxe chapel. We pledged to return on the upcoming Tuesday to fulfill our desire to explore the chapel up close following our visit to San Sebastián.

    Continuing our journey from Gaztelugatxe, we charted a course along the coastline, tracing a route to the east. Our path was paved with precision, weaving through the landscape with a series of thrilling hairpin curves. With each turn, the breathtaking Atlantic vistas were unveiled through forest openings, inviting us to capture the beauty in photographs. The scenery, punctuated by immaculate little towns and villages, bore a resemblance to the charm of Switzerland. The weekend ambiance was alive and well as people embraced the sunny warmth, engaging in walks, hikes, bike rides, and picnics along the route. Our itinerary led us to the quaint town of Lekeitio, where a leisurely break included savoring a refreshing beer accompanied by prosciutto and crusty baguette.

    Upon reaching San Sebastián, we checked into our respective apartments, a private enclave for relaxation. Eager to appease our appetites, we indulged in an early dinner at Pizzeria La Mina. Kurt, one of our companions, hailed it as the pinnacle of pizza perfection, a sentiment we all shared unanimously. The allure of the thin, crispy crust and delectable ice cream—a delightful treat Kurt generously shared—captured our palates.

    A delightful interlude awaits us tomorrow, Sunday. With most establishments closed, we've planned a leisurely day encompassing a scenic city bus tour and a stroll along the sun-kissed beach.
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  • San Sebastián Beach
    Our Breakfast PlaceView from Monte Igueldo

    Donostia/San Sebastián

    May 28, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 70 °F

    Ursula's timely wake-up call roused me from slumber, preventing me from missing out on a delectable breakfast experience at Café Con Leche, where our orders perfectly matched its name.

    Our journey with the City Bus Tour commenced conveniently close to the Saint Sebastián River. For a fee of Є12 per adult, we embarked on a one-hour ride. Securing seats at the front of the upper deck provided me with an ideal vantage point to capture stunning videos.

    Anticipation builds as I look forward to crafting captivating YouTube videos upon our return.

    The bus route proved captivating as it unveiled the remarkable cityscape of San Sebastián, also known as Donostia in Basque. The city's allure surpassed even that of Bilbao. Distinguished by an elevated air of sophistication, immaculate cleanliness, meticulous upkeep, and efficient organization, it left a lasting impression. The modern and refined shopping district appears poised to captivate Renata and Ursula on tomorrow's expedition.

    Just as the previous day, the streets bustled with activity. The beaches and expansive boardwalk teemed with life - individuals of all ages, accompanied by their four-legged companions, engaged in leisurely walks, invigorating jogs, and leisurely bike rides. This vibrant tapestry of humanity, spanning from the young to the elderly families with children, provided captivating scenes to observe.

    Opting for a second bus tour, we alighted at the Funicular station leading to Monte Igueldo. Our chosen seats on the restaurant's sun-soaked terrace treated us to panoramic city vistas and bay of San Sebastián below. Immersing ourselves in this awe-inspiring sight, complemented by drinks and culinary delights, occupied us for an enchanting hour.

    Upon returning to ground level, we strolled along the beachside promenade to our lodgings. The path was adorned with intriguing flora, while stately mansions overlooked the waterfront. The sandy expanse of the beach buzzed with activity - sunbathers, some opting for a topless soak in the sun, contributed to the vibrant scene.

    Our evening meal materialized at "Bar Amazonas," a charming eatery renowned for its diverse combination of plates and Pintxos. Midway through the feast, raindrops began to fall. Swiftly adapting, we drew our chairs closer to the table nestled beneath an umbrella, ensuring an uninterrupted culinary experience.
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  • PintxosMercado de La BretxaBuen Pastor CathedralBuen Pastor CathedralMonument for 400 Basque Men ExecutedWater Temperature 62F / 17C

    Donostia/San Sebastián

    May 29, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 63 °F

    Today's adventures might not be the most thrilling, but they're a part of our journey nonetheless.

    Ursula and I dedicated a significant chunk of our morning to navigating the intricate process of setting up an account with Banco Santander, which was quite challenging for foreigners like us. Eventually, I initiated a wire transfer from Wells Fargo into the newly established account. The anticipated arrival of the funds is slated for June 8th, a wait that feels a bit incredulous. The wheels of finance do turn slowly at times.

    Our day led us to explore the town's historic district, where we wandered through the local gem, Mercado de La Bretxa. Amidst the hustle and bustle, we indulged in Pintxos and wine, savoring the delectable olives procured from the lively vendor Manu.

    While the girls delved into various fashion boutiques, Kurt and I visited a nearby church. With an eye on tomorrow's journey, we meticulously planned our departure route along the picturesque coastal path to the west, securing our accommodations in Santander.

    As the day matured, we found ourselves ambling along the pier, the early evening sun casting a warm glow over the scene. The bay offered captivating views, and we marveled at the intricate designs that local artists had etched in the sand. Another chapter of our adventure ended, culminating in a satisfying dinner at Pizzeria La Mina.
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  • Autopista A-8
    Restaurante El RobleRestaurante El RobleNespola Fruit (Loquat)View from our HotelSardinero BeachBalneario de la Concha

    San Sebastián - Santander

    May 30, 2023 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 63 °F

    A fantastic highway, Autopista A-8, guided us through the picturesque verdant terrain, leading us back and circling around Bilbao towards the west until we reached Ontón. There, we exited and transitioned onto the N-634 route, guiding us to Santander. Santander, a bustling port city with approximately 180,000 residents, boasts the prominent Banco Santander and is renowned for its seafood-centric culinary scene. Our stay here is scheduled for a single day.

    En route, we passed charming villages and encountered numerous hikers trekking the Santiago de Compostela trail, coinciding with our stretch path. In Liendo, we stopped at Restaurante El Roble for a midday meal. Their day menu, an incredible deal at just €14 per person, included an appetizer, main course, wine, water, dessert, and coffee.

    Arriving at our destination around 4 PM, we settled into Hostel Carlos III (named after a former King of Spain, Carlos the 3rd). Our simple rooms on the first floor featured a petite balcony that offered a view of the sandy Sardinero beach. Typically, double rooms go for €55 per night here on the North Coast.

    Kurt's excitement got the best of him, compelling him to take a brisk dip in the (somewhat chilly) water. We then relaxed with a few beverages at the Balneario de la Concha beach restaurant, soaking in the ambiance until dawn approached.

    Our plans for tomorrow involve hopping on the local bus to reach the city's heart. From there, we intend to explore Santander on foot, uncovering the city's offerings and attractions.
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  • Hostel Carlos III
    Local MarketMain Post OfficeCentro Botín MuseoMuseo MaritímoPalacio de la Magdalena

    Santander

    May 31, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 70 °F

    The weather here is fantastic, with cool nights at around 57°F and pleasant daytime temperatures reaching 72°F. Don't worry about humidity, even though we're always close to the sea.

    After a quick and scenic 7-kilometer bus ride, we arrived at the heart of Santander and found the tourist information center right in the central plaza.

    As luck would have it, just as I was stepping off the bus, a message came through from Banco Santander's manager, notifying us that the money from Wells Fargo Bank had been successfully deposited into our account. What a relief! Without wasting any time, we promptly withdrew some cash. It's quite reassuring to have funds on hand.

    While Ursula and I took care of banking matters, our friends Kurt & Renata took the opportunity to explore the local market, soaking in the vibrant atmosphere.

    Santander stole our hearts. The city gives off an air of elegance that might even surpass San Sebastián or Bilbao. The place is incredibly neat and tidy, with well-kept streets, sidewalks, and buildings. Our itinerary covered a range of attractions, including the tourist office, the cathedral, the main post office, the art museum, the maritime museum, and the charming old town.

    Do note that most shops take a break around 2:00 PM for the famous "Siesta" and reopen from 5:00 PM to 9:00 PM.

    We utilized this window of time to explore the remarkable Palacio de la Magdalena estate, unwind at our hostel, and prepare for dinner. Of course, Kurt couldn't resist a refreshing swim at the beach.

    For dinner, we had an unforgettable meal at Restaurante Bodegas Marzōn. Our feast included codfish, jumbo prawns, octopus, tuna salad, and succulent veal cheeks. As I'm writing this, the clock has just struck 11:01 PM.

    We plan to bid farewell to this enchanting place tomorrow morning as we set off along the picturesque north coast in a westerly direction. Our next stop is the lovely city of Llanes, where a cozy hostel is booked for the next two nights. Exciting adventures await!
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  • Calatrava Bridge
    Santillana del MarSantillana del MarSantillana del MarSantillana del MarSan Vicente de la BarqueraSan Vicente de la BarqueraApartamentos San Pedro

    Santander - Llanes

    June 1, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 66 °F

    We received warm farewells from Esther, the hostel's maid, and the receptionist. As our suitcases found their place in the car, Spain greeted us with another splendid day.

    With our morning coffee behind us, we embarked on a journey along S-20 and A-67, leading us to Santillana del Mar, a medieval gem nestled in the coastal hills of Spain. The town's skilled stone masons and carpenters had left their mark, evident in the impeccable craftsmanship that adorned every corner. The streets, adorned with cobblestones in intricate designs, guided us past old buildings boasting wooden balconies adorned with vibrant flowers. The use of Maple, red oak, and locally sourced stone was a testament to the artistry that shaped the town's architecture.

    Our path then wove through verdant hills and farmland, leading us to the tranquil coastal embrace of Comilla, a charming small town. Nestled within a cozy cove, it unveiled a sandy beach that beckoned for relaxation. We took a respite and savored a refreshing salad Nicoise for lunch, embracing the coastal ambiance.

    N-634 and N-621 ushered us through the heart of the land, unveiling awe-inspiring mountain valleys and the intricate chasms carved by rivers through the rugged terrain of the coastal mountains. The journey alternated between descents toward the coast and ascents into the sky, a terrain more rugged and majestic than anticipated, offering vistas that left us in awe.

    Our arrival at Llanes, just before 4 PM, preceded the official check-in time by an hour. "Apartamentos San Pedro," our chosen abode, was a delightful 3-bedroom duplex apartment within walking distance of downtown, tailored perfectly for our two-night sojourn.

    Dinner unveiled its own enchantment at La Rebotica Gastrotaberna, where succulent spare ribs took center stage. Guiding us through the culinary experience was a gracious young waiter hailing from the Dominican Republic, adding a personal touch to the delectable meal.
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  • Grassy Coastal WalkwayHotel Restaurant SoblónHotel Restaurant SoblónSea Bass

    Llanes

    June 2, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 70 °F

    Today offered a tranquil day of exploration in the charming city of Llanes. The historic town is adorned with remnants of its old walls, some tracing their origins back to the early 12th century. The city exudes a cozy atmosphere with a present-day population of approximately 3,800 residents.

    Our apartment served as the perfect starting point, conveniently situated within walking distance of everything. Following a scenic grassy path along the coastline, we were led to a petite urban beach and a bustling harbor—ample time allowed us to amble leisurely, capturing numerous photographs to encapsulate the moments.

    After savoring a delightful lunch at a serene eatery, we returned to the coastline. This time, we embarked on a journey in the opposite direction, tracing the same elevated grassy trail overlooking the sea for several miles. The water below transitioned from deep blue to turquoise, displaying its crystal-clear and pristine nature. The underwater landscape was distinct - rocks and sand were clearly visible deep down.

    As the sky began to shroud itself in incoming clouds and distant rumbles of thunder echoed over the coastal mountains, we recognized the signal to conclude our seaside sojourn. A retreat to our apartment beckoned, promising refreshing showers and relaxation. While Ursula and Renata diligently attended to the task of folding clothes laundered the previous day, Kurt and I consulted the map, charting the course for our onward journey to the west.

    With dinner reservations secured at Restaurante Casa Canere for 7:30, we anticipated a delightful dining experience. Yet, our expectations were met with disappointment as the waiter displayed disinterest and lackluster enthusiasm in attending to us. Seizing the moment, I proposed that we seek an alternative. Our spontaneous stroll brought us to the sun terrace of Hotel Soblón, where an exceptional table awaited. Though slightly pricier, the panorama, ambiance, and delectable grilled Sea Bass proved more than satisfying. Renata's contentment was palpable; she humorously credited me with salvaging the evening.

    Anticipation now turns to tomorrow's destination: the picturesque coastal enclave of Lastres, a mere 2-1/2 hours' journey from our present location.
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  • Mirador del Fito
    Cows & Bulls in ColungaAsturian Valley CattleAsturian Valley CattleMassive Asturian Valley BullLastresLastresLastresLastresPaella flop!Raspberry Sorbet Cheese CakeMango Sorbet & Yoghurt

    Llanes - Lastres

    June 3, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 68 °F

    We embarked on our journey from our cozy apartment in Llanes, setting off around 10:30 AM. Our first delightful stop was in a charming nearby village, where we indulged in a delightful morning meal of coffee and buttery croissants.

    Instead of simply taking the quickest route to Lastres, we embraced adventure and detoured through the picturesque coastal mountains, following the winding AR-115 road. Along this route, we were treated to the sights of quaint farming towns and lush cow pastures. Our path then led us onto the AR-260, which guided us to the breathtaking Mirador del Fito, a lofty mountain pass situated at an impressive elevation of 1,100 meters above sea level. Here, a unique observation deck gave us an expansive 180-degree panorama of the coastal mountains and valleys. The surroundings exuded an untouched natural beauty, interrupted only by sporadic pockets of deforestation. During our time there, I gathered a handful of wild strawberries, a charming gift for Ursula.

    Kurt, in his characteristic spirit of exploration, veered off course in search of fresh fruit near Colunga. A fortunate turn of events led us astray, and we unexpectedly stumbled upon a field where local farmers proudly showcased their prized cows and bulls. The sight was truly captivating. These Asturian Valley cattle, native to the northern coastal areas along the Bay of Biscay, proved to be a remarkable and unique breed, a story vividly told through the attached photos.

    After our Colunga escapade, our quest for a satisfying lunch proved fruitless. Hence, we made the decision to head straight to our ultimate destination, Lastres. This quaint coastal town, graced with a beach and a bustling fishing harbor, welcomed us with its distinctive charm. The town's architecture, with houses harmoniously integrated into the steep hillside, held stories that dated back to the 16th century. Narrow cobblestone streets and numerous staircases adorned the town, promising a bit of a workout for our legs. Nonetheless, we eagerly anticipated the opportunity to explore not only the town itself but also the surrounding areas.

    Our abode for the stay was the enchanting Hotel Casa Eutimio, a three-story stone building steeped in history. The interior boasted wooden staircases and elegant hardwood floors. Our spacious room was thoughtfully appointed, comprising a cozy living space and a comfortable bedroom with a double bed. The window treated us to a town vista with majestic mountains as a captivating backdrop. As for Kurt and Renata, their first-floor room came complete with a charming balcony that offered splendid views of the harbor and the beach.

    However, our dining experience that evening left much to be desired. The seafood Paella we eagerly ordered was a disappointment, featuring a sparse supply of shrimp and an abundance of inedible crabs. Although typically composed, I couldn't help but feel frustrated. It was astonishing that such subpar fare could be served and maintain a thriving business. The gracious waiter acknowledged the mishap and kindly extended a 15% discount as an apology.

    Thankfully, the evening took a positive turn as we savored the delights of rich espresso coffees and delectable ice cream on the terrace of our hotel. This serene conclusion brought a sense of contentment and provided a fitting end to a day filled with diverse experiences.
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  • Hotel Breakfast
    Oviedo Market AreaOviedo Market AreaBasque BandLocal Cheese (cow, goat, sheep)Playa España

    Lastres - Playa España - Oviedo

    June 4, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 68 °F

    The hotel provided a delightful morning meal, featuring café con leche, delicate pancakes, a homemade bundt cake, fresh bread, butter, and jam.

    Among our fellow guests is an animated Australian woman who is trekking the Santiago de Compostela trail. Taking a brief respite, she's renting a car to explore the surroundings. She enthusiastically recommended paying a visit to the Oviedo market.

    Kurt decided to have a leisurely day, enjoying the beach and catching up on reading.

    Meanwhile, Renata, Ursula, and I embarked on a journey to Oviedo. Our leading destination was the Mercado El Fontán, endorsed by the Australian traveler (a 52-minute drive away). Regrettably, as it was Sunday, the market was only partially operational. Nevertheless, the streets encircling the market were brimming with tent-style outdoor vendors and a vibrant crowd.

    Renata snagged a white linen blouse for a mere €5 during our exploration. Naturally, we paused for a coffee break in a charming plaza where a Basque folklore ensemble enthralled the atmosphere with their drums and bagpipes.

    As we wrapped up our time in Oviedo, we took a detour through the captivating countryside, navigating narrow secondary roads, eventually stumbling upon the serene Playa España—a sandy beach—a picturesque surprise.

    Such an enjoyable escapade. Stay tuned for more adventures to come...
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  • Cudillero HarborCudilleroCudilleroCudilleroLuarca City HallLuarca HarborHotel Casa ManoliHotel Casa ManoliHotel Casa ManoliDinner PlaceFabada AsturianaGrilled SardinesCipirones (Baby Squid)Sunset at 10:20 PM

    Lastres - Cudillero - Luarca

    June 5, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 70 °F

    At around 9:30 AM, we said our goodbyes to the delightful town of Lastres. Our journey continued along the scenic Highway A-8, guiding us past Oviedo as we headed north and west along the picturesque Asturias coast. After approximately 90 minutes of driving, we descended to sea level, arriving at the charming fishing village of Cudillero. Here, we had the chance to explore and purchase local fruits, as this region is renowned for its Kiwi, Apples, Plums, and Blueberries.

    Much like our previous experience in Lastres, Cudillero enchanted us with its unique allure. Tucked into the steep hillsides encircle the harbor, the village's ancient stone buildings were adorned with many vibrant colors. Our timing was perfect – visiting during the pre-season allowed us to savor the village's beauty without the hustle and bustle of crowds. The impeccable cleanliness of the surroundings, including the streets, shops, and even public restrooms, left a strong impression on us.

    Following Routes CU-3, A-8, and N-634, we eventually reached our ultimate destination for the day: the fishing town of Luarca. The well-maintained roads and highways made our journey quite smooth. Although finding parking posed a bit of a challenge, we eventually located a municipal garage about a quarter mile upriver. Exploring the town on foot, we meandered through narrow streets and charming alleys until we reached the lively port area. There, we stumbled upon a delightful restaurant where we enjoyed a light, late lunch.

    Our accommodation for the night was at the Casa Manoli Estate, nestled 1.6 miles inland amidst the tranquil countryside adorned with orchards and lush pastures. This estate, once a strawberry farm in the 1990s, now offered us a simple yet spacious room for €45. After checking in and taking a break, we discussed our plans for the following day, which would take us to Viveiro.

    While Kurt decided to stay at the hotel due to a lack of appetite, Renata, Ursula, and I ventured back into town for an evening meal. The dinner experience was delightful – I opted for a regional specialty, Fabada Asturiana, while Ursula savored grilled sardines, and Renata indulged in grilled baby squid. A few glasses of the House Wine further elevated our culinary adventure. A rather bold seagull attempted to snatch food from a neighboring table, adding a touch of amusement to our evening.

    As the day ended, we returned to our hotel just in time for me to capture a breathtaking sunset photograph, marking the end of another splendid day in the enchanting northern region of Spain.
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  • Playa de las Cathedrales
    Playa de las CathedralesPlaya de las CathedralesSargadelosSargadelosCeramic/Porcelain FactoryCeramic/Porcelain FactoryCeramic/Porcelain FactoryThalasso Las SirenasPraia de SacidoHotel Restaurant

    Luarca - Viveiro

    June 6, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 73 °F

    The hotel pleasantly surprised us with its modest yet delightful breakfast spread. I couldn't get enough of the freshly squeezed, sweet orange juice, homemade strawberry marmalade, and juicy Kiwi fruits. What a wonderful way to start our day in Spain!

    Our morning kicked off with a mesmerizing visit to Playa de las Catedrales. This unique sandy shoreline showcased towering rock formations, some adorned with intricate tunnels and arches sculpted by the relentless sea over time. Among these rocks, one stood out with angles that brought to mind the grandeur of cathedral architecture. Be sure to check out the attached photos to witness it for yourself.

    Our next stop was a captivating tour of a ceramic and porcelain factory in Sargadelos. We opted for a self-guided tour, observing the skilled artisans at work. It was truly fascinating to witness the intricate process of creating ceramic pieces from their inception to the final delicate hand-painted touches. It's no wonder that a seemingly ordinary coffee cup commands a price of €34.

    Our accommodation, Thalasso Las Sirenas in Viveiro, was a refreshing change with its modern 4-star amenities. We indulged in the luxury of elevators and a spa, feeling thoroughly pampered. From our balcony, we savored the view of the beach and the bay, with a distant glimpse of the city to our right. This evening, we have dinner reservations at the restaurant on the 5th floor, enclosed in glass and offering a breathtaking view of the bay. The enticing items on the menu promise a memorable gastronomic experience.

    Ursula and I deeply bond with our fellow travelers, Kurt and Renata. Our friendship goes back to the 70s during our time in New York. Sharing similar interests, we explore Spain together. Kurt and Renata take the lead in planning our itinerary and selecting our destinations, with a shared understanding that flexibility is key. Our plans are open to discussion and adjustments as circumstances evolve. Tomorrow marks the 16th day of our vacation as we prepare for a 150-kilometer drive to the city of Cedeira.

    Kurt's exceptional driving skills are in action while I play the role of co-pilot. Additionally, I assist Renata in finding accommodations and restaurants and manage reservation calls, serving as the translator and communicator for our team.

    Here's to teamwork, and here's to the beauty of España!
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  • Cape de Estaca de BaresCape de Estaca de BaresSanto André de TeixidoSanto André de TeixidoCarmenHotel HerbeiraHotel HerbeiraCedeira Coast

    Viveiro - Ortigueira - Cedeira

    June 7, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 70 °F

    As a traveler, I found solace in the gentle night rain that welcomed us, a promising prelude to our journey. The weather forecast assured us of its companionship until our return to the USA, but, as any traveler knows, plans can always take unexpected turns.

    Our day began on the outskirts of Viveira, where we found ourselves cradling morning coffee at a quaint bar. Delightful ceramic cups, remnants of our visit to the Sargadelos factory the day before, embraced our senses and set the tone for the day ahead.

    Following the damp path of AC-100, we headed north towards the Cape de Estaca de Bares lighthouse. Miraculously, the rain decided to retreat, granting us a clear view of the stunning landscape. The journey led us through dense eucalyptus forests, filling the air with their wonderful aroma.

    We continued our journey past the charming coastal towns of Ortigueira and Cariño, choosing route DP-2205, which guided us to the coastal mountain hamlet of Santo André de Teixido. Even though light rain veiled the scenery, it couldn't diminish the hamlet's undeniable charm. A petite church welcomed our footsteps here, and a conversation with a friendly local named Carmen unfolded. To my delight, she had eucalyptus honey for sale. Little did she know that I have quite a passion for honey! 😂

    Our route to Cedeira, our final destination, took us along a narrow and winding road. Eucalyptus forests and picturesque pastoral scenes, with grazing cows and elegant horses, painted a landscape reminiscent of Switzerland's Jura mountains.

    Cedeira itself was unassuming, a typical coastal town with a familiar harbor. We made our way to Hotel Herbeira, perched slightly higher and offering a welcome accent of rain as it cascaded upon us.

    Carmen, the hotel's warm-hearted proprietor, greeted us warmly and assigned us modern rooms overlooking the swimming pool and bay. It was a humorous coincidence that the name Carmen came up again, as she had sold me honey, earlier in Santo André de Teixido. It turned out she had deep-rooted connections to the area through her husband. It truly is a small world!

    Since the solitary fine dining establishment in town had chosen that day for closure, we decided to dine at the hotel's restaurant. It turned out to be a symphony of flavors – a mixed salad, a platter adorned with cheese and prosciutto, accompanied by fresh bread and a glass of wine, all playing their delicious part in our culinary adventure.
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  • Lugo fortified Roman Walls
    On top of the Roman WallLugo fortified Roman WallsLugo Old TownLugo ChurchRoman BridgeRoman BridgeRúa Ferreiriño 9 - 3rd Floor Duplex apartmentChicharrón (Squid)Pulpe (Octopus)

    Cedeira - Lugo

    June 8, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 64 °F

    June 8th:
    Today, we embarked from Cedeira in the morning and journeyed to Lugo, navigating through a captivating landscape of rolling hills, enchanting forests, and vibrant pastures. Our day's lodging, meant for both today and tomorrow, welcomed us amidst a torrential downpour ☔️. Unfortunately, our spacious Mercedes couldn't be accommodated in the assigned parking garage, compelling Kurt to park it skillfully along a nearby side street.

    June 9th:
    Lugo, with approximately 100,000 residents, has a rich historical past. Once a pivotal Roman military encampment in the 12th century during the conquest of northern European regions, the town flourished. Evident from this era is a formidable 30-foot fortified wall encompassing the compound, fortified further by 71 watchtowers. Much of this structure endures today, and the sight was awe-inspiring. Most of our morning was dedicated to immersing ourselves in the city encircled by the Roman Wall, revealing a striking cathedral, numerous charming squares, and delightful boutique establishments.

    Ursula and I embarked on a leisurely stroll from the ancient quarters to the banks of the River Miño, traversing the Roman Bridge—an integral part of the Pilgrim trail leading to Santiago de Compostela.

    Following a brief interlude for coffee, we regrouped at the apartment, enjoying the French Tennis Semi-Final match between Carlos Alcaraz and Novak Djokovic. Later, Kurt and I secured lodgings for the forthcoming day and meticulously examined our planned itinerary.

    For this evening's dining escapade, we opted for a local tavern celebrated for its seafood offerings. Our palate was treated to delectable Hake, Squid, and Octopus servings.

    Our destination on the morrow is the city of Ponferrada, nestled within the province of León.
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  • Ponferrada Castle
    Scotch BroomPilgrim Statue at 1270 MetersThe Templars Castle of PonferradaHotel Temple PonferradaThe Templars Castle of Ponferrada

    Lugo - Ponferrada

    June 11, 2023 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 61 °F

    Once again, the breathtaking landscape stretches endlessly, adorned with lush green hills and valleys that extend as far as the eye can see, devoid of any visible houses.

    Approaching Ponferrada, the scenery evolves, showcasing hills adorned with vineyards and fruit orchards that dot the spaces between the mountains. These charming farms and houses gradually cluster into quaint villages.

    Up to this point, our journey has been graced by impeccably maintained local roads and highways, complete with clear signage and directional indicators.

    The vibrant yellow hue that catches your attention is the flourishing Scotch Broom, adorning our path as we ascend to the pilgrim statue atop the lofty elevation of 1270 meters.

    The Hotel Temple Ponferrada, conveniently situated within a stroll from the town center, looks like a castle fit for noble knights, exuding a corresponding decor. Our generously sized rooms on the 6th floor are elegantly designed rustically.

    Dominating the cityscape, the Templars Castle of Ponferrada is a testament to its medieval history. Once among the most imposing fortresses in northwestern Spain, it was gifted to the Knights Templar by King Alfonso IX in 1211 as a gesture of peace.

    We dined at Restaurant Doce Torres in the old town across from the castle for our evening meal. As darkness settled in, the courtyard was splendidly illuminated, extending an irresistible invitation for the iPhone to capture the moment in a flawless photograph.
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  • PeñalbaWalnutsHiking TrailCave EntranceMonks CaveLeónLeónLeónLeón CathedralLeón

    Ponferrada - Peñalba - León

    June 11, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 72 °F

    What a hassle! Iberia canceled our flight Bilbao-Madrid for June 19th. I spent 1-hour this morning on the phone between American Airlines and Iberia to book new flights and get seat assignments. Our return to the US is scheduled for June 17th, one day shorter than planned, with an estimated arrival in Dallas at 3:56 PM.

    Before departing Ponferrada, we walked to town and had coffee and pastries at a unique bakery Kurt spotted last night on our walk home.

    Around 10 AM, we headed for the nearby mountains for some hiking. The narrow, windy road quickly gained altitude, and the pressure in our ears needed several adjustments. After a 40-minute drive, we reached the cute mountain hamlet of Peñalba. The streets were cobblestone. The houses are built of local stone with slate roofs and wooden balconies.

    Peñalba was born years ago by a small community of monks from the south. They used a cave about 4 miles away, on the other side of the Valley of Silence, for meditation. It was this cave that we planned to hike to today.

    It was a beautiful hike in pure nature. On the way, we passed small vegetable gardens and apple, pear, plum, and cherry orchards and met two ladies with baskets filled with freshly picked Chanterelles mushrooms. I greeted a Chinese hiker lady with a friendly Nǐ hǎo (Hello) and earned a big smile! The cave was relatively small, with a couple of steps leading to a platform with an Altar.

    Peñalba had a restaurant where we stopped to drink and eat before descending to Ponferrada and taking Hwy #6 to León. Our hotel for tonight is the Crisol Quindos, about 1.2 miles from the town center.

    Dinner tonight was at La Bodega del Húmedo, which was recommended to us by a couple from León whom we met earlier in Peñalba. The food was OK, but we were not overly impressed with our ordered dishes.

    Overall - another great day in northern Spain.
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  • Ursula with artist Antonio Gaudí in León
    BurgosBurgosBurgosCathedral Santa MariaBurgosCathedral Santa MariaCathedral InteriorCathedral InteriorCathedral InteriorCathedral InteriorCathedral Interior

    Leon - Burgos

    June 12, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 73 °F

    The check-out time was at noon today, which gave us a few more hours to explore the old town of León after breakfast. We intended to visit the Museo Botines Gaudí and the Museum of Modern Art. However, the exhibitions were not what we had expected.

    The drive from León to Burgos on routes A-60 and A-231 was lovely. The sun was out, and the sky was slightly cloudy. The landscape was mostly flat, with many agricultural fields to the left and right as far as the eye could see.

    The hotel receptionist in León accommodated us in making reservations at their sister Hotel in Burgos, which was easy to find. It's in a good location and within walking distance of the old town center. The Camino de Santiago runs through Burgos, which has a population of about 180,000. It was founded in 884 and controlled by the Romans in the 11th century.

    The main attraction in Burgos is the Cathedral Santa Maria on the Plaza Rey Fernando. It is considered one of the most beautiful and the largest in the world. After a quick tapas lunch, I visited the Cathedral with Kurt while our ladies took a break in the nearby park.

    Construction of the basic Cathedral began in 1221 and was expanded over the next 200 years by different builders, and many artists influenced its style. It is the most massive Cathedral I have ever visited. The columns' size and the arches' height were terrific, as were the sculptures, golden ornaments, and wood carvings. See attached pictures.

    We plan to return to Plaza Rey Fernando tonight for a drink at a Vermouth Bar mentioned in our travel guide and dinner at a Pizza restaurant.
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  • Coffee BreakRain ahead of usSangre de TorroRiojaRiojaHaro town squareWaiting for the Restaurant to open at 8:30 PM

    Burgos - Logroño - Haro

    June 13, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 68 °F

    Today's trip was first through Spain's beautiful countryside with field after field of agriculture. Then the windy routes BU-820 and BU-825 took us on a 50-mile tour through the lush mountains with views of several dammed lakes until we reached the city of Logroño.

    We stopped in a small village for a coffee and bathroom break. More people entered the coffee bar but strangely didn't behave in the usual happy Spanish way. Ursula guessed that they probably came to assemble here after a funeral. Her instinct was correct, as a local gentleman later confirmed - it was a 78-year-old man that had passed away.

    We were met with a heavy 90-minute rain downpour in the middle of the mountains. Kurt needed to drive slower and use caution. Several motorcycle and bicycle riders got soaking wet.

    We are now in the Rioja region with its endless vineyards.

    Logroño is a stop on the pilgrimage route to Santiago de Compostela. The Cathedral of Santa María de la Redonda has twin baroque towers, an elaborate facade, and an image attributed to Michelangelo. The Cubo del Revellín fortress connects to remnants of the old city wall. Leafy Ebro Park has views of the Ebro River, its arched Stone Bridge, and its 19th-century Iron Bridge. We didn't stay in Logroño for very long. We just had a coffee and a bite to eat. The Tourist Office gave us all the information we needed for tomorrow's visit to the wineries and tasting.

    We are staying at the Hotel Plaza for the next two nights. Our balcony views the Plaza de la Paz in the small wine city of Haro, about 20 minutes North of Logroño.
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  • Muga Tasting RoomGómez CruzadoGómez CruzadoSpecial Concrete ContainersBodegas López de Heredia - Viña TondoniaLa Rioja Alta, S.A. Showroom

    Haro, Rioja

    June 14, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 70 °F

    Today did not go according to plan.

    Renata was not feeling well (upset stomach) and preferred to stay in bed this morning. Kurt met us alone for breakfast and decided to stay with Renata at the hotel and get some bananas and medication.

    Ursula and I took the van and drove to an area of town with large Bodegas (wine cellars) of well-known winemakers.

    Bodega Muga was the first showroom we visited. It looked adorable and sophisticated. Unfortunately, all the tasting tables were occupied, and since we didn't have a reservation, the wait time would have been about 30 minutes. In addition, the tours to visit the winery were booked out for the day. Thus, we decided to try other places.

    At our next target, Gómez Cruzado, the place was not too busy, and we were promptly seated at a small table in front of rows and rows of new oak wine barrels. We ordered a tasting of five Rioja red wines. It was served with mini toasts soaked in olive oil (to clear our palate between each sample). Our waiter was fantastic and explained each wine clearly, how it differed from the previous one, and the different ways of storing it during fermentation. Stainless Steel or concrete containers are used to keep wine "honest" about how the grapes taste, as opposed to New, and French oak barrels, which add certain flavors.

    Wine #1 - 2022 Rioja of 65% Garnacha, and 45% Tempranillo. It was stored for six months in special pear-shaped concrete containers. We rated it as a #5 on a scale from 1-10.

    Wine #2 - 2017 Viña Porana, 60% Tempranillo, and 40% Garnacha. It was aged two years in French oak barrels from the Southern Rioja region. We rated it as a #6. It was smoother than the previous one.

    Wine #3 - 2017 Honorable, 90% Tempranillo, blended with 10% of 3 other kinds of grapes from the northern region. It was fermented for 18 months in new oak barrels. We rated it a #6+ with solid flavors (excellent to drink with red meat).

    Wine #4 - 2016 Pancrudo (named after the highest Rioja mountain), 100% Garnacha. Single Vinyard. Aged one year in the concrete container. We rated it a #7+.

    Wine #5 - 2011 Gran Reserva. 70% Tempranillo, 25% Garnacha. Fermented for four years in French oak barrels. It was very nice and smooth. We rated it an #8+.

    The next Bodegas we visited were López de Heredia, La Rioja Alta, and Manzanos Haro. By 1:45 PM, we felt a little hungry and returned to Bodega Muga for lunch. A glass of Rosé with bread, olives, ham, and sausage was just what the doctor ordered! Yummy. Our waiter was wearing a €36,000 authentic Rolex Deepsea.

    Renata had somewhat recovered by the time we got back to the hotel, and we all decided to go for a stroll through the old town and up to a lookout point from where we could see the river and wine country. It was a warm afternoon, and not a cloud in the sky.

    Tonight's dinner was at the Restaurant Los Caños, within walking distance. Good Rioja, tomato salad, grilled leaks, french fries, eggs w/mushrooms, entrecote, expresso coffee, and the best cheesecake ever!

    We plan a drive through the Rioja wine region tomorrow to our booked Hotel San Camilo in Navarrete, Rioja.
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  • GarnachaBarleyLa Guardia regionPintxosLoquat , also called NespolaDrinks in La GuardiaDinner at Restaurant Sala

    Haro - Rioja - Navarrete

    June 15, 2023 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 64 °F

    Renata was feeling much better after breakfast. We had a fantastic day today!

    The goal for today was to experience the Rioja wine country. We didn’t plan to follow a specific route. The only thing we kept in mind was moving toward Navarrete, where we are staying tonight.

    It was very relaxing to drive a little slower and focus our attention on the incredible views and the beauty of the landscape. Kurt veered off the main road and used narrow gravel roads that led through the vineyards. The vines have many young shoots (light green color), and the grapes are in a tiny developing stage. The grape vines look very healthy, as does all the vegetation that we see here in northern Spain. We see tractors with blowing devices busy spraying the vines with insecticides. We notice that farmers occasionally plant barley between the grape fields.

    The winery of Eugene Ugarte on route N-232a was an exciting place where we spent about 1 hour exploring and walking the entire property, which included grapes processing, fermentation storage, restaurant, gift shop, and hotel. The grounds were kept immaculately - everything was spotless - very impressive. Ursula purchased a bottle of Grappa and Kurt a bottle of wine as souvenirs.

    The drive to the wine capital La Guardia was only 20 minutes. Kurt found a great parking space behind the church. Restaurante Biazeri had outdoor tables shaded under chestnut trees where we stopped for lunch for wine, beer, pintxos, and coffee. The wine region attracts more tourism than the coastal towns we visited earlier. Restaurant and hotel prices are almost double.

    Hotel San Camilo, 1-mile outside of Navarrete, was easy to find, and our dinner at the Restaurant Sala in town was unforgettable. The owner, Tatjana, immigrated 20 years ago from Romania and treated us like family. What a nice dinner and evening to end our vacation in Spain.

    Tomorrow will be our last day. We plan to visit two close-by wineries. One was designed by Santiago Calatrava, and the other by Frank Gehry.
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  • City of Elciego with Sierra de Cantabria
    Marqués de Riscal in ElciegoChestnut TreeYsios WinerySantiago Calatrava DesignYsios Winery

    Navarrete - Derio - Bilbao

    June 16, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 81 °F

    We woke up to a beautiful day with sunshine and blue sky, although the weather App indicated a 30% chance of rain.

    After a lavish breakfast buffet at the hotel, we loaded the van. We navigated through more of Rioja’s vineyards to the winery of Marqués de Riscal in Elciego, where Spanish architect Frank Gehry designed the winery’s hotel. It looked modern and a little crazy, similar to the Guggenheim Museum in Bilbao. A tour of the winery and hotel was only available in the afternoon for €20 per person. But the wine and gift shop was open and friendly to visitors. Kurt decided to circle the winery in our van to the top of a hill with a vineyard from where we saw the crazy Gehry creation. The side of the hotel and roof have colorful bent sheet metal. See the photos below.

    Next, we drove to the Ysios winery, which Spanish architect Santiago Calatrava designed. The wave-like building blends perfectly into the Rioja landscape and the nearby Sierra de Cantabria mountain range.

    With the satisfaction of seeing two unique places, we headed on route A-2124 toward our hotel in Bilbao. Along the way, we had a drink and a quick bite in Vitoria-Gasteiz.

    We are staying at the Holiday Inn Express at the Bilbao Airport tonight. Our flight to Madrid leaves at 9:10 AM tomorrow. Our friends Kurt & Renata are waiting for one more day and are flying back to Zurich, Switzerland, on Sunday the 18th.

    This concludes a most memorable trip through Northern Spain. We had a wonderful time and experienced something special every day. Thank you, Kurt & Renata, for taking us along on this fantastic journey of 1,675 miles!
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    Trip end
    June 17, 2023