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Bilbao Spain

May - June 2023
This vacation trip started on Tuesday, May 23, 2023, in Bilbao with a group of friends, intending to explore the North Coast of Spain, including the coastal mountains, and the Rioja wine region. The trip ended in Bilbao on June 17th. Read more
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  • TravelerBilbao Spain
    Day 1

    Arrival in Bilbao, Spain

    May 23, 2023 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 64 °F

    Our adventure with American Airlines brought us to the vibrant city of Madrid, though our touchdown was fashionably late by an hour and a half. With only a tight window for navigating Immigration and catching our connecting train to Terminal 4 for the Iberia flight bound for Bilbao, we engaged in a sprint that rivaled an Olympic race. Luckily, luck was on our side, and we managed to reach the gate with just a few minutes to spare.

    Post-flight, our trusty Uber whisked us from the airport to our abode at Calle Prim 5. However, our jubilation was short-lived as we realized, moments after our driver's departure, that my phone and wallet had been inadvertently abandoned in the backseat.

    Our entry into the apartment complex was a bit of a puzzle, even after diligently following the check-in guidelines. Providentially, a kind tenant extended a helping hand, granting us access and guiding us to Apartamento Bajo-D. The door code operated seamlessly, revealing a charming, contemporary 2-bedroom apartment.

    Once connected to the online realm, I sprang into action, notifying Uber about the misplaced belongings and fortifying our credit and debit cards with a security lock.

    Around 5:00 PM, we took a leisurely stroll to a local bakery and a bustling food market to assemble provisions for tomorrow's morning feast. The enchanting Plaza Nueva beckoned, treating us to our inaugural encounter with Pintxos (also known as Tapas) accompanied by a delightful glass of wine. My proficiency in Spanish proved invaluable as we engaged with the warm-hearted locals; the bartender, hailing from Medellin, Colombia, added a touch of international camaraderie.

    As the clock struck evening, our companions Kurt and Renata from Switzerland graced us with their presence, arriving with a rental car in tow. We eased into the night together, unwinding with a shared glass of wine. 🍷 The joy of reunion was palpable, considering the long hiatus since the onset of the pandemic.

    Sleep eluded me, my mind restless, pondering my lapse in leaving the phone and wallet behind in the Uber. The fate of those items hung in the balance, with hopes that an honest soul among the subsequent passengers would ensure their return, either to Uber's Lost & Found or the Bilbao Police—an optimistic reverie, though not without its touch of wishful thinking.    Read more

  • TravelerBilbao Spain
    Day 2

    Bilbao, City Bus Tour

    May 24, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 59 °F

    The sky showcased an interplay of overcast conditions with occasional bursts of sunlight breaking through.

    With the thermostat expertly repaired, we wandered through the charming narrow lanes of historic Bilbao. Eventually, we settled ourselves at a restaurant in Plaza Nueva to relish Pintxos and savor coffee.

    On the opposite side of the Nervión River, we procured tickets for a ride aboard the Hop-on-Hop-off City Bus. This 40-minute excursion offered us a sweeping overview of the city's key attractions and landmarks. We opted for a second round to ensure no hidden gems escaped our notice, securing seats on the upper deck's front row. This privileged spot provided the perfect angle for capturing stunning photos and videos.

    Our collective enthusiasm was fueled by the captivating sights we encountered, leaving us eagerly anticipating the forthcoming two days of in-depth exploration in Bilbao. The city's immaculate streets and well-preserved structures left a lasting impression. The images below will eloquently fill in the finer details.

    Before returning to the apartment, we picked up a selection of breakfast items. To my surprise, the "Find My" app on my laptop indicated my phone's location was about 5 miles away in a suburb.

    Kurt and I promptly hailed an Uber and set off for the specified location without hesitation. Regrettably, our search yielded no results. Given the app's approximate location, the area was surrounded by three-story apartment buildings, rendering it plausible that the phone could be in any of them.

    In a display of kindness, the Uber driver contacted his dispatch office on my behalf. It was confirmed that yesterday's driver, Pedro Manuel, was unaware of the abandoned phone and wallet—subsequent passengers were likely the ones to have taken them.

    Although our return home was marked by disappointment and empty hands, we did manage to stop by the Bilbao Police Lost & Found to report the incident. The police personnel displayed utmost professionalism, albeit with a limited grasp of English. This circumstance afforded me a 45-minute exercise in practicing my Mexican Spanish!

    As night descended, we treated ourselves to more Pintxos and indulged in wine at a different restaurant in Plaza Nueva. The flavors were exquisite and left a lasting culinary impression.

    Our agenda for tomorrow involves visiting the iconic Guggenheim Museum, followed by a cable car ascent to Mount Artxanda for an aerial perspective of the cityscape.    Read more

  • TravelerBilbao Spain
    Day 3

    Bilbao, Guggenheim Museum

    May 25, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 64 °F

    Reflecting on my missing phone and wallet, I've considered their unfortunate disappearance. Unfortunately, the Bilbao Police informed me that the "Find My" location pointed to a neighborhood associated with Morrocan drug trafficking, making recovery seem unlikely. As a result, I took the necessary steps today: I suspended my Verizon phone and took measures to cancel my credit and bank debit cards. This chapter has now come to a close.

    Today, however, was a remarkable day!

    We embarked on a captivating walking route to the Guggenheim Museum, passing through charming neighborhoods adorned with small, family-owned shops catering to North African ethnic communities.

    Admission for seniors to the Museum was priced at €9.00. The Guggenheim visit itself was an awe-inspiring experience. While the artworks displayed inside by various artists were impressive, the true marvel lay in the captivating architecture of the building, both inside and out. I can hardly express how exceptional the design appeared to me—it was unlike anything I've encountered before. Each step I took revealed new perspectives, with the building's curves and lines constantly shifting (though I fear my description falls short). Perhaps the pictures I've shared can better convey the experience.

    After indulging in a coffee and a light snack at the Café, we departed the Museum and strolled along the riverside, crossing the one-of-a-kind pedestrian bridge designed by the talented Spanish architect Santiago Calatrava.

    We then hopped onto a cable car, which carried us to the summit of Mount Artxanda. We enjoyed a panoramic view of Bilbao from this vantage point, perfect for capturing stunning photographs.

    Upon returning to our accommodation, Kurt and I dedicated time to acquainting ourselves with the navigation system of our Mercedes-Vito Tourer passenger van, ensuring that we were well-prepared for our upcoming departure to San Sebastian on Friday morning.

    Our evening included a dinner reservation at 7:00 PM, delightfully set at the restaurant Victor Montes on Plaza Nueva (treating ourselves now and then is a pleasure). My Prosciutto appetizer and Seafood main course were nothing short of exquisite. Kurt and Renata graciously shared a delightful 2016 Tempranillo from the esteemed Rioja Region to accompany our meal.

    Our plans for tomorrow include a leisurely morning and a Mercado de la Ribera visit.    Read more

  • TravelerBilbao Spain
    Day 4

    Bilbao, Mercado Ribera

    May 26, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 68 °F

    Embracing the sun's warm embrace at a pleasant 77 degrees Fahrenheit, today unveiled its charm to us.

    Our journey led us to the captivating Ribera Market this morning. Nestled in an Art-Deco marvel spanning an impressive 10,000 square meters, this culinary haven boasts three floors with around 180 businesses. Picture this: small shops offering an array of fresh seafood, vibrant fruits, crisp vegetables, and an assortment of meats. The ambiance pulsed with local life as shoppers bustled about, a vibrant dance between vendors and patrons captivating our attention.

    Embarking on a 30-minute stroll, we traversed the river's edge, venturing through a neighborhood with Middle Eastern flair. Our quest led us to the Bilbao Cultural Center, a sprawling edifice resembling a city block. A juxtaposition of age and modernity, its exterior echoed history while the interior breathed innovation. Within its walls, a public library, community gym, and a rooftop terrace graced with an open-air swimming haven awaited. A showstopper was the transparent-bottomed pool, an architectural marvel allowing observers on the ground floor to glimpse its aquatic world from below.

    Intrigued by the enigmatic, our next halt was the Department of Health building. Clad in a seemingly random arrangement of black glass panels on a steel framework, its oddity drew our gaze.

    A sojourn at Banco Santander beckoned, a query about a Wells Fargo wire transfer lingering on my lips. The sentry shared that the bank's doors would close at 2:00 PM, awakening again at 8:30 AM on Monday. A chuckle-worthy notion that the whims of time would steer us to San Sebastian for the transaction.

    Post a refreshing beer interlude, our steps retraced to the apartment for a quick outfit metamorphosis and a rendezvous with the travel guide. The chosen dining spot bore a "Closed for Vacation" sign, leading us to a serendipitous encounter with Restaurant Horrobia, its inviting threshold embraced by our curious hearts.

    At 8:30 PM, we found ourselves solitary guests, contemplating whether we'd erred in our choice. But lo and behold, culinary excellence erased all doubt. The waiter shared the locals' secret: dinner's true stars tend to grace the scene after 9:00 PM. As our plates emptied, the restaurant swelled with merrymakers, its aura infectious. Beyond its walls, the ancient streets became a playground for the young, laughing and clinking glasses weaving a vivacious tapestry.

    Anticipation builds for the morrow, our compass pointing toward the coastal embrace of San Sebastián. Here, the next three nights will paint their own tales on the canvas of our journey.    Read more

  • TravelerBilbao Spain
    Day 5

    Bilbao - San Sebastián

    May 27, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 61 °F

    For those of you with an adventurous spirit, our chosen mode of transportation is a diesel-powered Mercedes-Vito Tourer passenger van, perfect for a comfortable journey.

    We set off from the vibrant city of Bilbao at approximately 9 AM, embarking on a northbound route that led us to the captivating Atlantic coastline. Our primary destination was the awe-inspiring Gaztelugatxe chapel, a unique structure perched upon a rocky islet. Connected to the mainland by a stone walkway evocative of the Great Wall of China, the chapel promised a remarkable experience.

    The landscape that unfolded before us was a feast for the eyes: undulating hills adorned with verdant pastures and charming small farms. This scene resembled the picturesque countryside of Switzerland, albeit with a twist—instead of the familiar pine, oak, and beech trees, eucalyptus forests graced the horizon.

    Our anticipation was palpable as we approached the trail entrance to Gaztelugatxe. However, our excitement met an unexpected hurdle when we were informed that a prior online reservation was required for weekend visits. A slight disappointment washed over us—why hadn't this crucial detail been mentioned in our travel guide? Undeterred, we opted for the shorter trail that led us to a lookout point. From there, we beheld a panoramic view of the sandy shoreline and the distant Gaztelugatxe chapel. We pledged to return on the upcoming Tuesday to fulfill our desire to explore the chapel up close following our visit to San Sebastián.

    Continuing our journey from Gaztelugatxe, we charted a course along the coastline, tracing a route to the east. Our path was paved with precision, weaving through the landscape with a series of thrilling hairpin curves. With each turn, the breathtaking Atlantic vistas were unveiled through forest openings, inviting us to capture the beauty in photographs. The scenery, punctuated by immaculate little towns and villages, bore a resemblance to the charm of Switzerland. The weekend ambiance was alive and well as people embraced the sunny warmth, engaging in walks, hikes, bike rides, and picnics along the route. Our itinerary led us to the quaint town of Lekeitio, where a leisurely break included savoring a refreshing beer accompanied by prosciutto and crusty baguette.

    Upon reaching San Sebastián, we checked into our respective apartments, a private enclave for relaxation. Eager to appease our appetites, we indulged in an early dinner at Pizzeria La Mina. Kurt, one of our companions, hailed it as the pinnacle of pizza perfection, a sentiment we all shared unanimously. The allure of the thin, crispy crust and delectable ice cream—a delightful treat Kurt generously shared—captured our palates.

    A delightful interlude awaits us tomorrow, Sunday. With most establishments closed, we've planned a leisurely day encompassing a scenic city bus tour and a stroll along the sun-kissed beach.    Read more

  • TravelerBilbao Spain
    Day 6

    Donostia/San Sebastián

    May 28, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 70 °F

    Ursula's timely wake-up call roused me from slumber, preventing me from missing out on a delectable breakfast experience at Café Con Leche, where our orders perfectly matched its name.

    Our journey with the City Bus Tour commenced conveniently close to the Saint Sebastián River. For a fee of Є12 per adult, we embarked on a one-hour ride. Securing seats at the front of the upper deck provided me with an ideal vantage point to capture stunning videos.

    Anticipation builds as I look forward to crafting captivating YouTube videos upon our return.

    The bus route proved captivating as it unveiled the remarkable cityscape of San Sebastián, also known as Donostia in Basque. The city's allure surpassed even that of Bilbao. Distinguished by an elevated air of sophistication, immaculate cleanliness, meticulous upkeep, and efficient organization, it left a lasting impression. The modern and refined shopping district appears poised to captivate Renata and Ursula on tomorrow's expedition.

    Just as the previous day, the streets bustled with activity. The beaches and expansive boardwalk teemed with life - individuals of all ages, accompanied by their four-legged companions, engaged in leisurely walks, invigorating jogs, and leisurely bike rides. This vibrant tapestry of humanity, spanning from the young to the elderly families with children, provided captivating scenes to observe.

    Opting for a second bus tour, we alighted at the Funicular station leading to Monte Igueldo. Our chosen seats on the restaurant's sun-soaked terrace treated us to panoramic city vistas and bay of San Sebastián below. Immersing ourselves in this awe-inspiring sight, complemented by drinks and culinary delights, occupied us for an enchanting hour.

    Upon returning to ground level, we strolled along the beachside promenade to our lodgings. The path was adorned with intriguing flora, while stately mansions overlooked the waterfront. The sandy expanse of the beach buzzed with activity - sunbathers, some opting for a topless soak in the sun, contributed to the vibrant scene.

    Our evening meal materialized at "Bar Amazonas," a charming eatery renowned for its diverse combination of plates and Pintxos. Midway through the feast, raindrops began to fall. Swiftly adapting, we drew our chairs closer to the table nestled beneath an umbrella, ensuring an uninterrupted culinary experience.    Read more

  • TravelerBilbao Spain
    Day 7

    Donostia/San Sebastián

    May 29, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 63 °F

    Today's adventures might not be the most thrilling, but they're a part of our journey nonetheless.

    Ursula and I dedicated a significant chunk of our morning to navigating the intricate process of setting up an account with Banco Santander, which was quite challenging for foreigners like us. Eventually, I initiated a wire transfer from Wells Fargo into the newly established account. The anticipated arrival of the funds is slated for June 8th, a wait that feels a bit incredulous. The wheels of finance do turn slowly at times.

    Our day led us to explore the town's historic district, where we wandered through the local gem, Mercado de La Bretxa. Amidst the hustle and bustle, we indulged in Pintxos and wine, savoring the delectable olives procured from the lively vendor Manu.

    While the girls delved into various fashion boutiques, Kurt and I visited a nearby church. With an eye on tomorrow's journey, we meticulously planned our departure route along the picturesque coastal path to the west, securing our accommodations in Santander.

    As the day matured, we found ourselves ambling along the pier, the early evening sun casting a warm glow over the scene. The bay offered captivating views, and we marveled at the intricate designs that local artists had etched in the sand. Another chapter of our adventure ended, culminating in a satisfying dinner at Pizzeria La Mina.    Read more

  • TravelerBilbao Spain
    Day 8

    San Sebastián - Santander

    May 30, 2023 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 63 °F

    A fantastic highway, Autopista A-8, guided us through the picturesque verdant terrain, leading us back and circling around Bilbao towards the west until we reached Ontón. There, we exited and transitioned onto the N-634 route, guiding us to Santander. Santander, a bustling port city with approximately 180,000 residents, boasts the prominent Banco Santander and is renowned for its seafood-centric culinary scene. Our stay here is scheduled for a single day.

    En route, we passed charming villages and encountered numerous hikers trekking the Santiago de Compostela trail, coinciding with our stretch path. In Liendo, we stopped at Restaurante El Roble for a midday meal. Their day menu, an incredible deal at just €14 per person, included an appetizer, main course, wine, water, dessert, and coffee.

    Arriving at our destination around 4 PM, we settled into Hostel Carlos III (named after a former King of Spain, Carlos the 3rd). Our simple rooms on the first floor featured a petite balcony that offered a view of the sandy Sardinero beach. Typically, double rooms go for €55 per night here on the North Coast.

    Kurt's excitement got the best of him, compelling him to take a brisk dip in the (somewhat chilly) water. We then relaxed with a few beverages at the Balneario de la Concha beach restaurant, soaking in the ambiance until dawn approached.

    Our plans for tomorrow involve hopping on the local bus to reach the city's heart. From there, we intend to explore Santander on foot, uncovering the city's offerings and attractions.    Read more

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  • TravelerBilbao Spain
    Day 9

    Santander

    May 31, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 70 °F

    The weather here is fantastic, with cool nights at around 57°F and pleasant daytime temperatures reaching 72°F. Don't worry about humidity, even though we're always close to the sea.

    After a quick and scenic 7-kilometer bus ride, we arrived at the heart of Santander and found the tourist information center right in the central plaza.

    As luck would have it, just as I was stepping off the bus, a message came through from Banco Santander's manager, notifying us that the money from Wells Fargo Bank had been successfully deposited into our account. What a relief! Without wasting any time, we promptly withdrew some cash. It's quite reassuring to have funds on hand.

    While Ursula and I took care of banking matters, our friends Kurt & Renata took the opportunity to explore the local market, soaking in the vibrant atmosphere.

    Santander stole our hearts. The city gives off an air of elegance that might even surpass San Sebastián or Bilbao. The place is incredibly neat and tidy, with well-kept streets, sidewalks, and buildings. Our itinerary covered a range of attractions, including the tourist office, the cathedral, the main post office, the art museum, the maritime museum, and the charming old town.

    Do note that most shops take a break around 2:00 PM for the famous "Siesta" and reopen from 5:00 PM to 9:00 PM.

    We utilized this window of time to explore the remarkable Palacio de la Magdalena estate, unwind at our hostel, and prepare for dinner. Of course, Kurt couldn't resist a refreshing swim at the beach.

    For dinner, we had an unforgettable meal at Restaurante Bodegas Marzōn. Our feast included codfish, jumbo prawns, octopus, tuna salad, and succulent veal cheeks. As I'm writing this, the clock has just struck 11:01 PM.

    We plan to bid farewell to this enchanting place tomorrow morning as we set off along the picturesque north coast in a westerly direction. Our next stop is the lovely city of Llanes, where a cozy hostel is booked for the next two nights. Exciting adventures await!    Read more

  • TravelerBilbao Spain
    Day 10

    Santander - Llanes

    June 1, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 66 °F

    We received warm farewells from Esther, the hostel's maid, and the receptionist. As our suitcases found their place in the car, Spain greeted us with another splendid day.

    With our morning coffee behind us, we embarked on a journey along S-20 and A-67, leading us to Santillana del Mar, a medieval gem nestled in the coastal hills of Spain. The town's skilled stone masons and carpenters had left their mark, evident in the impeccable craftsmanship that adorned every corner. The streets, adorned with cobblestones in intricate designs, guided us past old buildings boasting wooden balconies adorned with vibrant flowers. The use of Maple, red oak, and locally sourced stone was a testament to the artistry that shaped the town's architecture.

    Our path then wove through verdant hills and farmland, leading us to the tranquil coastal embrace of Comilla, a charming small town. Nestled within a cozy cove, it unveiled a sandy beach that beckoned for relaxation. We took a respite and savored a refreshing salad Nicoise for lunch, embracing the coastal ambiance.

    N-634 and N-621 ushered us through the heart of the land, unveiling awe-inspiring mountain valleys and the intricate chasms carved by rivers through the rugged terrain of the coastal mountains. The journey alternated between descents toward the coast and ascents into the sky, a terrain more rugged and majestic than anticipated, offering vistas that left us in awe.

    Our arrival at Llanes, just before 4 PM, preceded the official check-in time by an hour. "Apartamentos San Pedro," our chosen abode, was a delightful 3-bedroom duplex apartment within walking distance of downtown, tailored perfectly for our two-night sojourn.

    Dinner unveiled its own enchantment at La Rebotica Gastrotaberna, where succulent spare ribs took center stage. Guiding us through the culinary experience was a gracious young waiter hailing from the Dominican Republic, adding a personal touch to the delectable meal.    Read more

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