Arrival in Bilbao, Spain
May 23, 2023 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 64 °F
Our adventure with American Airlines brought us to Madrid, although we arrived about an hour and a half late. With only a short window to clear Immigration and catch the train to Terminal 4 for our connecting Iberia flight to Bilbao, we had to move quickly. Fortunately, we made it to the gate with only a few minutes to spare, proving that airport speed walking is indeed an Olympic sport.
After arriving in Bilbao, an Uber took us from the airport to our apartment on Calle Prim 5. Unfortunately, shortly after the driver had left, Heinz realized that he had accidentally left his phone and wallet in the back seat. Not exactly the souvenir he had planned to leave behind.
Getting into the apartment building was also a bit of an adventure, even after carefully following the check-in instructions. Luckily, a friendly resident came to our rescue, helped us get inside, and pointed us toward Apartamento Bajo D. The door code worked perfectly, and we were delighted to find a lovely, modern, and comfortable two-bedroom apartment waiting for us.
Once Heinz established internet access, his priority was contacting Uber about the missing items and locking all of our credit and debit cards as a precaution.
Around 5:00 PM, we took a stroll to a nearby bakery and food market to pick up supplies for breakfast the next morning. Later, we made our way to Plaza Nueva, where we enjoyed our first Pintxos accompanied by a nice glass of wine. Our broken Spanish proved surprisingly useful while chatting with several locals, including a friendly bartender from Medellín, Colombia.
Later that evening, our friends Kurt and Renata from Switzerland arrived in their Mercedes rental van. We spent a pleasant evening catching up over a glass of wine and enjoying the opportunity to see each other again for the first time since the pandemic. 🍷
That night, however, Heinz found it difficult to sleep. His thoughts kept returning to the phone and wallet left behind in the Uber. We all hoped that either the driver or a subsequent passenger would turn them in to Uber’s Lost & Found or to the Bilbao police. As it turned out, our Spanish adventure was already providing plenty of excitement on day one.Read more
Bilbao, City Bus Tour
May 24, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 59 °F
The day began under mostly overcast skies, although the sun made occasional appearances throughout the afternoon.
We spent the morning exploring the narrow streets and historic neighborhoods of Bilbao. Eventually, we settled on a table in Plaza Nueva, where we enjoyed a few Pintxos and a cup of coffee while watching local life unfold around us.
Later, we crossed the Nervión River and purchased tickets for the Hop-on-Hop-off City Bus. The 40-minute tour provided a good overview of Bilbao’s main sights and neighborhoods. We enjoyed it enough to stay on for a second circuit, securing seats in the front row of the upper deck, which offered excellent views and opportunities for photos and videos.
The tour increased our anticipation for the next two days of exploring the city in more detail. Bilbao has impressed us with its clean streets, attractive architecture, and well-maintained public spaces. The photos below will tell much of the story.
Before returning to the apartment, we stopped to pick up a few items for breakfast. To my surprise, the “Find My” app on my laptop showed that my iPhone was located about five miles away in a suburb of Bilbao.
Kurt and I immediately called an Uber and headed to the location. Unfortunately, we were unable to recover it, since the app only provided an approximate location, and the area consisted of several three-story apartment buildings. It could have been in any one of them.
Our Uber driver kindly contacted his dispatch office and learned that yesterday’s driver, Pedro Manuel, had not found the phone or wallet in his vehicle. It appeared that a dishonest passenger probably took it.
Although we returned empty-handed, we did stop at the Bilbao Police Lost & Found office to file a report. The officers were professional and helpful, despite the language barrier. The experience gave me about 45 minutes to practice my Mexican Spanish.
In the evening, we returned to Plaza Nueva and sampled more Pintxos at a different restaurant, accompanied by a glass of wine. Once again, the food was excellent.
Tomorrow’s plans include a visit to the iconic Guggenheim Museum and a ride on the funicular to Mount Artxanda, where we hope to enjoy panoramic views of the city.Read more
Bilbao, Guggenheim Museum
May 25, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 64 °F
Reflecting on the loss of my phone and wallet, I have come to accept that they are likely gone for good. The Bilbao Police informed me that the location shown by the “Find My” app was in an area known for drug trafficking and petty crime, making recovery unlikely. As a result, I spent part of today taking care of the practical matters: suspending my Verizon phone service and canceling my credit and debit cards. With that done, it is time to move on and focus on the journey ahead.
Fortunately, the rest of the day was much more interesting and pleasant.
We set out on a pleasant walk to the Guggenheim Museum, passing through several interesting neighborhoods with many small, family-owned shops serving Bilbao’s North African community.
Senior admission to the museum was €9.00, and it was money well spent. While the artwork itself was impressive, the building was the true highlight for me. The architecture is unlike anything I have experienced before. From every angle, both inside and outside, the structure seemed to change shape and character. The curves, lines, and flowing spaces created a sense of movement that is difficult to describe. Perhaps the photographs will do a better job than my words.
After enjoying a coffee and a light snack at the museum café, we continued our walk along the river and crossed the distinctive pedestrian bridge designed by Spanish architect Santiago Calatrava.
Next, we took the funicular up to Mount Artxanda, where we were rewarded with panoramic views over Bilbao and the surrounding hills. It was an excellent spot for photographs and offered a different perspective of the city.
Back at the apartment, Kurt and I spent some time familiarizing ourselves with the navigation system in our Mercedes Vito Tourer passenger van. We wanted to be well prepared for our departure to San Sebastián on Friday morning.
The day concluded with a 7:00 PM dinner reservation at Victor Montes on Plaza Nueva. We enjoy treating ourselves from time to time, and tonight was one of those occasions. My prosciutto appetizer and seafood main course were both excellent. To accompany the meal, Kurt and Renata shared a wonderful 2016 Tempranillo from Spain’s renowned Rioja region.
Tomorrow’s plans are simple: a relaxed morning and a visit to the Mercado de la Ribera before continuing our exploration of Bilbao.Read more
Bilbao, Mercado Ribera
May 26, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 68 °F
Today we enjoyed beautiful sunny weather with a pleasant 77°F, and Bilbao really showed us its charm.
This morning we visited the famous Ribera Market, a huge Art Deco building filled with small shops selling fresh seafood, fruits, vegetables, meats, and many local specialties. The market was full of energy, with locals shopping and chatting everywhere we looked.
From there, we took a 30-minute walk along the river through an interesting neighborhood with a Middle Eastern atmosphere. We eventually reached the Bilbao Cultural Center, a fascinating building that combines history with modern design. Inside are a public library, a gym, and even a rooftop swimming pool. The most unusual feature was the glass-bottomed pool, where people downstairs can look up and see swimmers above them.
Later, we stopped by the Department of Health building, which has a very unusual modern design with black glass panels placed in seemingly random patterns.
Kurt and I also tried to visit Banco Santander regarding a wire transfer to WFB, but unfortunately, the bank had just closed and will reopen Monday morning. The security guard suggested we try again in San Sebastián, our next stop.
After enjoying a refreshing beer, we returned to the apartment to change clothes before leaving for dinner at the suggestion in our travel guide. The original restaurant choice was unfortunately closed for vacation, but luckily, we discovered Restaurant Horrobia close by that was open.
At 8:30 PM, we were the only guests and briefly wondered if we had made the wrong choice. But the food quickly proved otherwise. The waiter explained that locals usually do not go out for dinner until after 9 PM. By the time we finished eating, the restaurant was full of happy people enjoying the evening. Outside, the old streets were alive with laughter, conversation, of cowds of people, and the sound of glasses clinking.
Tomorrow we continue to beautiful San Sebastián, where we will spend the next three nights exploring another part of Spain.Read more
Bilbao - San Sebastián
May 27, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 61 °F
For those who enjoy a bit of adventure, our vehicle for this trip is a diesel-powered Mercedes Vito Tourer passenger van, providing plenty of comfort and space for exploring northern Spain.
We departed Bilbao at around 9:00 AM and headed north toward the Atlantic coast. Our main destination was the famous chapel of Gaztelugatxe, perched on a rocky islet and connected to the mainland by a narrow stone walkway and staircase. The setting is spectacular and has become one of the most photographed landmarks in the Basque Country.
The drive itself was a highlight. Rolling green hills, small farms, and grazing cattle stretched across the landscape. In many ways, the scenery reminded us of Switzerland, although the forests here are dominated by eucalyptus trees rather than the pine, oak, and beech trees we are accustomed to seeing.
As we approached the trailhead for Gaztelugatxe, our excitement was cooled by a surprise. We learned that weekend visits require an advance online reservation. Unfortunately, our travel guide had not mentioned this detail. Rather than dwell on the disappointment, we chose a shorter trail leading to a scenic viewpoint. From there, we enjoyed excellent views of the coastline and the chapel in the distance. We have already decided to return on Tuesday after our stay in San Sebastián so that we can experience it properly.
From Gaztelugatxe, we continued east along the coast. The road wound through the hills with countless curves and switchbacks, while openings in the forest revealed impressive views of the Atlantic Ocean. Along the way, we passed through a number of spotless towns and villages that reflected the pride and care of their residents. With sunny weather and pleasant temperatures, the weekend atmosphere was in full swing. People were out walking, hiking, cycling, and enjoying picnics wherever there was a scenic spot.
We stopped in the charming seaside town of Lekeitio, where we took a break and enjoyed a cold beer accompanied by prosciutto and a fresh baguette.
By late afternoon, we arrived in San Sebastián and settled into our apartments. After a little relaxation, we headed out for an early dinner at Pizzeria La Mina. Kurt declared it the best pizza he had ever eaten, and none of us felt inclined to argue. The thin, crispy crust was outstanding, and the evening ended on a sweet note with some excellent ice cream that Kurt generously shared with the group.
Tomorrow, Sunday, will be a more relaxed day. Since many businesses are closed, we plan to take a city sightseeing bus tour and enjoy a leisurely walk along San Sebastián’s beautiful beach.Read more
Donostia/San Sebastián
May 28, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 70 °F
Ursula’s timely wake-up call ensured that we didn't miss breakfast at Café Con Leche, where both the coffee and the atmosphere lived up to the name.
Our day began with the City Bus Tour, conveniently departing near the San Sebastián waterfront. For €12 per person, we enjoyed a one-hour tour of the city. We managed to secure seats at the very front of the upper deck, giving me an excellent vantage point for photos and videos.
I am already looking forward to putting together a few YouTube videos when we return home.
The tour provided an excellent introduction to San Sebastián, or Donostia as it is known in the Basque language. As much as we enjoyed Bilbao, San Sebastián impressed us even more. The city has an elegant character, with beautiful architecture, spotless streets, well-maintained parks, and a strong sense of order. The modern shopping district, in particular, looks like a place that Renata and Ursula will thoroughly enjoy exploring tomorrow.
Like the previous day, the city was full of life. The beaches and wide seaside promenade were bustling with people enjoying the sunny weather. Families, couples, joggers, cyclists, dog walkers, and visitors of all ages filled the waterfront, creating an atmosphere that was both lively and relaxed.
After completing the first circuit, we decided to take a second ride and disembarked at the funicular station for Monte Igueldo. At the top, we found seats on the sunny terrace of the restaurant overlooking the city and the bay. The panoramic views were spectacular, and we spent about an hour there enjoying refreshments and simply taking in the scenery.
Back at sea level, we followed the promenade toward our apartment. Along the way, we admired the gardens, unusual plants, and impressive homes overlooking the shoreline. The broad sandy beach was busy with sunbathers, swimmers, and people enjoying the warm afternoon.
For dinner, we chose Bar Amazonas, a cozy restaurant known for its varied selection of plates and Pintxos. Halfway through our meal, a light rain shower arrived. Fortunately, we were seated under a large umbrella and simply moved our chairs a little closer to the table, allowing us to continue enjoying our meal without interruption.
It was another memorable day in one of the most attractive cities we have visited on this trip.Read more
Donostia/San Sebastián
May 29, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 63 °F
Today’s activities may not have been the most exciting of our trip, but they were still an important part of the journey.
Ursula and I spent much of the morning working through the process of opening an account with Banco Santander. As foreigners, we found the procedure more complicated than expected, but eventually everything was completed successfully. I then initiated a wire transfer from Wells Fargo to the new account. To my surprise, the estimated arrival date for the funds is June 8. The banking world still seems to move at its own pace.
Later, we headed into San Sebastián’s historic district and spent some time exploring the Mercado de La Bretxa. Amid the lively atmosphere, we enjoyed a selection of Pintxos and a glass of wine. One of the highlights was sampling some excellent olives purchased from a friendly vendor named Manu.
While Ursula and Renata explored a number of fashion boutiques, Kurt and I visited a nearby church and spent some time planning the next stage of our trip. We carefully mapped out tomorrow’s route westward along the coast and finalized our accommodations in Santander.
As evening approached, we took a leisurely walk along the waterfront. The late afternoon sun cast a warm light across the bay, and we stopped several times to admire the intricate sand sculptures and designs created by local artists. It was a pleasant way to spend a few quiet hours and enjoy the atmosphere of the city.
The day concluded with dinner at Pizzeria La Mina, a place we enjoyed so much that we decided to return for a second visit. It was a fitting end to another enjoyable day in San Sebastián.Read more
San Sebastián - Santander
May 30, 2023 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 63 °F
The excellent Autopista A-8 carried us through the lush green countryside as we traveled westward, looping around Bilbao and continuing toward Ontón. There, we left the highway and joined the N-634, which took us the rest of the way to Santander.
Santander, a coastal city of about 180,000 residents, is home to Banco Santander, one of Spain’s largest banks, and is well known for its seafood and maritime heritage. We planned to spend just one night here before continuing our journey.
Along the way, we passed through a number of attractive villages and encountered many hikers walking the famous Camino de Santiago pilgrimage route, which often paralleled our road. Around midday, we stopped in the village of Liendo for lunch at Restaurante El Roble. Their daily menu was an outstanding value at just €14 per person and included an appetizer, main course, wine, water, dessert, and coffee.
We arrived in Santander at about 4:00 PM and checked into Hostal Carlos III, named after King Charles III of Spain. Our modest rooms on the first floor featured small balconies overlooking Sardinero Beach and the Bay of Biscay beyond. Along Spain’s northern coast, a double room can often still be found for around €55 per night, making it a good option for budget-conscious travelers.
Unable to resist the temptation, Kurt quickly changed into his swimwear and headed for a refreshing dip in the Atlantic Ocean, despite the cool water temperature. Afterwards, we settled into the terrace of the Balneario de la Concha beach restaurant, where we enjoyed a few drinks while watching people stroll along the waterfront and the evening light settle over the bay.
Tomorrow, we plan to take the local bus into the city center and spend the day exploring Santander on foot, discovering its neighborhoods, waterfront, and local attractions at a relaxed pace.Read more
Santander
May 31, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 70 °F
The weather continues to be excellent, with cool nights around 57°F and comfortable daytime temperatures reaching about 72°F. Despite being close to the sea, the humidity has been surprisingly low, making it ideal for sightseeing.
After a short but scenic 7-kilometer bus ride, we arrived in the center of Santander and found the tourist information office located right on the main plaza.
As luck would have it, just as I stepped off the bus, I received a message from the manager of Banco Santander informing us that the wire transfer from Wells Fargo had successfully arrived in our account. What a relief! We immediately stopped by the bank and withdrew some cash. After the uncertainty of the past few days, it felt good to have access to our funds again.
While Ursula and I took care of our banking business, Kurt and Renata spent time exploring the local market and enjoying the lively atmosphere.
Santander quickly won us over. In our opinion, it is every bit as attractive as San Sebastián and Bilbao, perhaps even a little more elegant in some ways. The city is exceptionally clean and well-maintained, with attractive buildings, broad sidewalks, and inviting public spaces. During our walk, we visited the tourist office, the cathedral, the main post office, the art museum, the maritime museum, and several areas of the historic old town.
One thing visitors should know is that many shops close around 2:00 PM for the traditional siesta and reopen from about 5:00 PM until 9:00 PM.
During this quieter period, we visited the beautiful Palacio de la Magdalena and its surrounding grounds before returning to our hostel for a short rest. Naturally, Kurt could not resist another swim in the Atlantic.
The day concluded with an outstanding dinner at Restaurante Bodegas Marzón. Our table featured a variety of dishes, including cod, jumbo prawns, octopus, tuna salad, and tender veal cheeks. It was one of the best meals of the trip so far.
As I write these lines, the clock has just passed 11:00 PM.
Tomorrow morning, we will leave Santander and continue west along Spain’s spectacular northern coast. Our next destination is the charming town of Llanes, where we have booked a small hostel for the next two nights. We are looking forward to discovering another corner of this beautiful region.Read more
Santander - Llanes
June 1, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 66 °F
After saying our goodbyes to Esther, the hostel’s maid, and the receptionist, we loaded our suitcases into the van and set off under yet another beautiful Spanish sky.
Following our morning coffee, we headed out on the S-20 and A-67 toward Santillana del Mar, one of the most picturesque medieval towns in northern Spain. The town is remarkably well preserved, and the craftsmanship of generations of stone masons and carpenters is evident everywhere. Cobblestone streets wind between historic buildings with wooden balconies overflowing with colorful flowers. The combination of local stone and timber gives the town a timeless character that makes it easy to imagine life here centuries ago.
From there, we continued through rolling green hills and farmland to the coastal town of Comillas. Nestled beside a sheltered bay, the town boasts a beautiful sandy beach and a relaxed atmosphere. We stopped for lunch and enjoyed a refreshing Salade Niçoise while taking in the seaside surroundings.
The journey then became even more scenic as the N-634 and N-621 carried us through dramatic mountain valleys and along deep river gorges carved into the rugged landscape. Time and again, the road descended toward the coast before climbing back into the mountains. The terrain was far more dramatic than we had expected, and around nearly every bend another impressive view appeared.
We arrived in Llanes shortly before 4:00 PM, about an hour before check-in time. Our accommodation, Apartamentos San Pedro, turned out to be an excellent choice. The spacious three-bedroom duplex apartment is within easy walking distance of the town center and provides plenty of room for our two-night stay.
The day ended with dinner at La Rebotica Gastrotaberna, where the spare ribs were the highlight of the evening. Adding to the experience was our friendly waiter from the Dominican Republic, whose warm personality and attentive service made the meal even more enjoyable.
Another wonderful day along Spain’s northern coast had come to an end.Read more
Llanes
June 2, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 70 °F
Today was a relaxed day spent exploring the charming coastal town of Llanes. Parts of the old town walls remain, some dating back to the early 12th century. With a population of only about 3,800 residents, Llanes has a welcoming atmosphere and a pace of life that encourages visitors to slow down and enjoy their surroundings.
Our apartment proved to be an ideal base, conveniently located within walking distance of everything we wanted to see. Following a grassy path along the coastline, we made our way to a small urban beach and the busy harbor area. With no schedule to keep, we wandered at a leisurely pace, stopping frequently to take photographs and simply enjoy the scenery.
After a pleasant lunch at a quiet restaurant, we returned to the coast and headed in the opposite direction. The same elevated trail followed the shoreline for several miles, offering wonderful views of the sea below. The water ranged from deep blue to brilliant turquoise and was remarkably clear. In many places, the rocks and sandy bottom were visible far beneath the surface.
As the afternoon progressed, clouds began gathering over the coastal mountains and distant thunder echoed across the landscape. Taking the hint from Mother Nature, we decided it was time to head back to the apartment. There, we enjoyed a relaxing break. While Ursula and Renata folded laundry from the previous day’s wash, Kurt and I studied maps and planned the next stage of our journey westward.
We had reservations for dinner at Restaurante Casa Canene at 7:30 PM and were looking forward to the evening. Unfortunately, the service got off to a disappointing start, as the waiter seemed uninterested and unenthusiastic. Rather than settle for an experience that felt uninspiring, I suggested we try our luck elsewhere.
The decision turned out to be a good one. A short walk brought us to the terrace of Hotel Sablón, where we found an excellent table overlooking the sea. Although dinner was somewhat more expensive, the view, atmosphere, and food more than justified the difference. My grilled sea bass was outstanding, and everyone left satisfied. Renata jokingly remarked that I had saved the evening.
Tomorrow we continue westward to the picturesque coastal village of Lastres, about two and a half hours from Llanes. We are looking forward to discovering yet another corner of Spain’s beautiful northern coast.Read more
Llanes - Lastres
June 3, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 68 °F
We left our comfortable apartment in Llanes around 10:30 AM and began our journey westward. Our first stop was a small village nearby, where we enjoyed a leisurely breakfast of coffee and fresh croissants before continuing on our way.
Rather than taking the fastest route to Lastres, we chose the more scenic option and followed the winding AS-115 through the coastal mountains. The road passed through quiet farming communities, rolling green hills, and countless cow pastures. Later, we joined the AS-260, which brought us to the spectacular Mirador del Fito, a mountain viewpoint perched about 1,100 meters above sea level.
A distinctive observation tower at the summit provided sweeping views of the surrounding mountains, valleys, and coastline. The landscape felt remarkably untouched, with vast stretches of forest and pasture extending in every direction. While exploring the area, I even found a few wild strawberries growing along the trail and picked them for Ursula.
True to his adventurous nature, Kurt decided to take a small detour near Colunga in search of fresh fruit. That unexpected turn led us to a field where local farmers were displaying some of their cattle. It turned out to be a fortunate discovery. The Asturian Valley cattle, native to Spain’s northern coastal region, were impressive animals, and we spent some time admiring them and taking photographs.
After our detour near Colunga, we searched unsuccessfully for a suitable lunch spot. Eventually, we decided to continue directly to Lastres.
Lastres immediately impressed us. This picturesque fishing town clings to a steep hillside overlooking the Bay of Biscay. Many of its buildings date back centuries, and the narrow cobblestone streets, stairways, and tightly packed houses give the town a unique character. While the steep terrain provides plenty of exercise, it also rewards visitors with beautiful views at every turn.
Our home for the next few days was the charming Hotel Casa Eutimio, a historic stone building full of character. Inside, wooden staircases and polished hardwood floors added to its traditional charm. Our spacious room included a comfortable sitting area and a separate bedroom, while the window offered views across the town toward the surrounding mountains. Kurt and Renata were equally pleased with their room, which featured a balcony overlooking the harbor and beach.
Unfortunately, dinner did not quite live up to expectations. We ordered seafood paella, but the dish proved disappointing. There were very few shrimp and an abundance of small crabs that were difficult to eat. Even though I am usually easygoing about such things, this meal missed the mark. To his credit, the waiter acknowledged our concerns and graciously offered a 15% discount.
Thankfully, the evening ended on a much better note. Back at the hotel, we enjoyed rich espresso and delicious ice cream on the terrace while overlooking the harbor. It was a peaceful way to conclude a day filled with scenic drives, unexpected discoveries, and the first impressions of another beautiful corner of northern Spain.Read more
Lastres - Playa España - Oviedo
June 4, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 68 °F
The hotel provided a delightful breakfast that included café con leche, delicate pancakes, homemade bundt cake, fresh bread, butter, and jam. It was the perfect way to start the day.
Among the guests was an energetic Australian woman who is currently walking the Camino de Santiago. Taking a short break from the trail, she had rented a car to explore the region. During breakfast, she enthusiastically recommended a visit to Mercado El Fontán in Oviedo.
Kurt opted for a relaxing day in Lastres, planning to spend time at the beach and catch up on some reading.
Meanwhile, Renata, Ursula, and I set off for Oviedo, about a 52-minute drive away. Our main destination was Mercado El Fontán, as recommended by our Australian friend. Unfortunately, being Sunday, the market was only partially open. Even so, the surrounding streets were lively, filled with outdoor vendors, local shoppers, and visitors enjoying the pleasant weather.
During our stroll, Renata found a beautiful white linen blouse for just €5, which she considered quite a bargain. Naturally, we also found time for a coffee break in one of Oviedo’s charming plazas. While we relaxed, a folk music group entertained the crowd with traditional drums and bagpipes, adding to the festive atmosphere.
Before returning to Lastres, we decided to take a scenic route through the countryside. Following a network of narrow secondary roads, we passed through rolling hills, small villages, and farmland before unexpectedly arriving at Playa España, a beautiful sandy beach tucked away along the coast. It was an unexpected discovery and a wonderful place to pause and enjoy the scenery.
By the time we returned to Lastres, we all agreed it had been a very enjoyable day. Sometimes, the unplanned stops and small surprises become some of the most memorable parts of a trip.
More adventures await tomorrow.Read more
Lastres - Cudillero - Luarca
June 5, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 70 °F
At around 9:30 AM, we said goodbye to the charming town of Lastres and continued our journey westward along Spain’s northern coast. Following the excellent A-8 highway, we passed Oviedo and traveled through the beautiful region of Asturias. About 90 minutes later, we descended toward sea level and arrived in the picturesque fishing village of Cudillero.
Known for its local produce, including kiwis, apples, plums, and blueberries, the area provided an opportunity to browse fruit stands and sample some of the region’s harvest.
Like Lastres, Cudillero immediately captured our attention. The village is built into the steep hills surrounding a small harbor, with colorful houses stacked above one another in a natural amphitheater. Visiting during the pre-season proved to be an excellent decision. We were able to enjoy the town’s beauty without large crowds, and once again, we were impressed by the cleanliness of everything around us, from the streets and shops to the public facilities.
Continuing along the CU-3, A-8, and N-634, we eventually reached our destination for the day: the fishing town of Luarca. The roads were in excellent condition, making for an easy drive. Finding parking took a little patience, but we eventually secured a spot in a municipal garage about a quarter mile upriver.
From there, we explored the town on foot, wandering through narrow streets and alleyways that eventually led us to the lively harbor area. There, we found a pleasant restaurant where we enjoyed a light late lunch while watching the activity around the port.
Our accommodation for the night was Casa Manoli, located about 1.6 miles inland amid rolling countryside dotted with orchards and green pastures. The property was once a strawberry farm during the 1990s and now offers simple but spacious accommodations. Our room cost just €45 for the night, making it another excellent value along Spain’s northern coast.
After checking in and relaxing for a while, we discussed the next day’s route, which would take us farther west to the coastal town of Viveiro.
Kurt decided to stay at the hotel that evening, but Renata, Ursula, and I returned to Luarca for dinner. It turned out to be an enjoyable culinary experience. I ordered Fabada Asturiana, the region’s famous bean stew, while Ursula chose grilled sardines and Renata enjoyed grilled baby squid. A few glasses of house wine complemented the meal perfectly.
Adding a bit of entertainment to the evening, an especially bold seagull repeatedly attempted to steal food from a neighboring table, much to the amusement of everyone nearby.
As the sun began to set, we returned to Casa Manoli just in time for me to capture a beautiful sunset photograph over the countryside. It was a fitting end to another memorable day exploring the remarkable coastline of northern Spain.Read more
Luarca - Viveiro
June 6, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 73 °F
The hotel surprised us with a simple but excellent breakfast. I especially enjoyed the freshly squeezed orange juice, homemade strawberry marmalade, and sweet, ripe kiwi fruit. It was a wonderful way to begin another day in northern Spain.
Our first stop was the spectacular Playa de las Catedrales. This remarkable beach is famous for its towering rock formations, sea arches, and tunnels carved by centuries of wind and waves. One particular rock formation bears a striking resemblance to the arches and vaults of a cathedral, which inspired the beach’s name. The attached photos will tell the story far better than words can.
From there, we continued to Sargadelos, where we visited the well-known ceramics and porcelain factory. We chose the self-guided tour and were able to observe artisans at work throughout the production process. It was fascinating to see how each piece progresses from raw material to finished product, including the delicate hand-painting that makes every item unique. After seeing the craftsmanship involved, it became easier to understand why a simple coffee cup can sell for €34.
Our destination for the day was Thalasso Las Sirenas in Viveiro. After several nights in smaller hotels and guesthouses, it felt almost luxurious to stay in a modern four-star property complete with elevators, a spa, and all the comforts one could wish for. From our balcony, we enjoyed views of the beach and bay, while the city of Viveiro could be seen in the distance.
This evening we have reservations at the hotel’s fifth-floor restaurant, enclosed in glass and overlooking the bay. The setting alone promises to be memorable, and the menu looks equally inviting.
As we travel, Ursula and I are especially grateful to be sharing this adventure with our longtime friends Kurt and Renata. Our friendship goes back to the 1970s, when we all lived in New York. We have many interests in common, which makes traveling together both enjoyable and easy.
Kurt and Renata take the lead in planning much of our itinerary and selecting destinations, while all four of us remain flexible and open to changes along the way. Tomorrow will mark the 16th day of our journey as we prepare for a 150-kilometer drive to the coastal town of Cedeira.
Kurt handles most of the driving and does an excellent job behind the wheel. My role is more that of co-pilot. I also help Renata with finding accommodations and restaurants, making reservations, and handling much of the communication in Spanish.
Traveling as a team has worked remarkably well, and together we continue to discover the beauty, culture, and hospitality of España.Read more
Viveiro - Ortigueira - Cedeira
June 7, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 70 °F
During the night, a gentle rain arrived, providing a welcome change after many days of sunshine. The forecast suggests that rain may accompany us for much of the remainder of our journey, although weather forecasts, like travel plans, are always subject to change.
Our day began on the outskirts of Viveiro, where we stopped for coffee at a small local café. The coffee was served in elegant ceramic cups produced by the Sargadelos factory we had visited the day before, a pleasant reminder of that experience.
Following the AC-100 northward, we headed toward the Cape Estaca de Bares lighthouse, the northernmost point of mainland Spain. Fortunately, the rain gradually eased, allowing us to enjoy the dramatic coastal scenery. Along the way, we drove through extensive eucalyptus forests, their distinctive fragrance filling the cool morning air.
Continuing past the coastal towns of Ortigueira and Cariño, we followed the DP-2205 into the mountains to the small village of Santo André de Teixido. Although light rain lingered, it did little to diminish the charm of this unique place. We visited the small church and spent some time talking with a friendly local woman named Carmen. To my delight, she was selling eucalyptus honey. Anyone who knows me knows that I have a weakness for good honey! 😂
From Santo André de Teixido, we continued toward Cedeira along a narrow and winding road that offered beautiful views of forests, pastures, and rolling hills. The landscape, with its grazing cows and elegant horses, reminded me in many ways of Switzerland’s Jura region.
Cedeira itself is a pleasant coastal town centered around its fishing harbor. By the time we arrived, light rain had returned, adding a touch of atmosphere to the afternoon.
Our accommodation for the night was Hotel Herbeira, located on a hillside overlooking the bay. We were warmly welcomed by the owner, Carmen, who showed us to our modern rooms with views of the swimming pool and the water beyond. Amusingly, this was the second Carmen we had met that day. Even more surprising, she turned out to have strong family ties to Santo André de Teixido. Once again, we were reminded of how small the world can be.
Since the town’s only fine dining restaurant happened to be closed that evening, we chose to dine at the hotel restaurant instead. It proved to be an excellent decision. We enjoyed a fresh mixed salad, a platter of local cheeses and prosciutto, warm bread, and a glass of wine. Simple food, well prepared, and exactly what we needed after another day of exploring Galicia’s beautiful northern coast.
Tomorrow, we continue our journey westward, eager to discover what new landscapes and experiences await us.Read more
Cedeira - Lugo
June 8, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 64 °F
June 8
This morning, we departed Cedeira and made our way inland to Lugo. The drive took us through a beautiful landscape of rolling hills, forests, and green pastures that seemed to stretch endlessly across the countryside.
Upon arriving in Lugo, we were greeted by a torrential downpour. ☔️ Our accommodations for the next two nights were comfortable and well located, but there was one small challenge: our spacious Mercedes van would not fit into the assigned parking garage. Fortunately, Kurt once again demonstrated his parking skills and managed to find a suitable spot along a nearby side street.
June 9
With a population of roughly 100,000, Lugo is one of Galicia’s most historic cities. Its most remarkable feature is the impressive Roman wall that surrounds the old town. Built nearly 2,000 years ago, the fortification remains largely intact and includes 71 towers along its perimeter. Standing atop the wall and looking out over the city was truly impressive.
Most of the morning was spent exploring the historic center enclosed within the walls. We wandered through narrow streets, attractive plazas, and small shops, while admiring the city’s magnificent cathedral and many well-preserved historic buildings.
Later, Ursula and I took a leisurely walk from the old town down to the banks of the River Miño. There we crossed the Roman Bridge, which remains part of the pilgrimage route to Santiago de Compostela.
After a coffee break, we returned to the apartment and watched part of the French Open semifinal between Carlos Alcaraz and Novak Djokovic. Later in the afternoon, Kurt and I focused on the practical side of travel, securing accommodations for the next stage of our journey and reviewing our planned route.
For dinner, we chose a local tavern known for its seafood. The meal did not disappoint. We enjoyed excellent servings of hake, squid, and octopus, accompanied by good conversation and a relaxed atmosphere.
Tomorrow, we leave Galicia and head toward the city of Ponferrada in the province of León, continuing our exploration of northern Spain.
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Lugo - Ponferrada
June 11, 2023 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 61 °F
Once again, we traveled through a landscape of endless beauty. Rolling green hills and broad valleys stretched to the horizon, often without a single house in sight. The scenery felt peaceful, untouched, and distinctly different from the more densely populated regions we know at home.
As we approached Ponferrada, the landscape gradually changed. Vineyards and fruit orchards began to appear on the hillsides and valley floors, while small farms and homes clustered together to form charming villages nestled among the mountains.
One thing that has impressed us throughout this trip is the excellent infrastructure. The local roads and highways have been exceptionally well-maintained, and the signage has made navigation straightforward and stress-free.
A splash of brilliant yellow accompanied us for much of the drive. The hillsides were covered with blooming Scotch broom, adding vibrant color to the countryside as we climbed toward a viewpoint marked by a pilgrim statue at an elevation of approximately 1,270 meters.
Our accommodations for the night, Hotel Temple Ponferrada, were within walking distance of the town center. The hotel resembles a medieval castle and embraces that theme throughout its architecture and décor. Our spacious sixth-floor rooms featured rustic furnishings that fit perfectly with the building’s character.
The most prominent landmark in Ponferrada is the impressive Templar Castle, which dominates the city’s skyline. Once one of the most important fortresses in northwestern Spain, it was granted to the Knights Templar by King Alfonso IX in 1211. The castle remains remarkably well preserved and serves as a powerful reminder of the region’s medieval past.
For dinner, we chose Restaurante Doce Torres in the old town, located directly across from the castle. As darkness settled over the city, the castle walls and courtyard were beautifully illuminated. The setting was so striking that it practically demanded to be photographed. Fortunately, the iPhone was more than willing to cooperate.
It was a fitting end to another memorable day of exploring Spain’s diverse landscapes, history, and culture.Read more
Ponferrada - Peñalba - León
June 11, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 72 °F
What a way to start the day! Iberia canceled our June 19 flight from Bilbao to Madrid, which led to an hour-long phone marathon between Iberia and American Airlines. Fortunately, everything was eventually sorted out. We now have new flights and confirmed seat assignments. As a result, our return to the United States has been moved up by one day. We are now scheduled to arrive in Dallas on June 17 at 3:56 PM.
Before leaving Ponferrada, we walked into town and enjoyed coffee and pastries at a unique bakery that Kurt had spotted the night before during our evening stroll.
Around 10:00 AM, we headed into the nearby mountains for a hike. The narrow, winding road quickly climbed in elevation, and our ears needed frequent adjustments as we gained altitude. About 40 minutes later, we arrived in the picturesque mountain village of Peñalba de Santiago.
The village is full of character, with cobblestone streets, stone houses, slate roofs, and wooden balconies. Founded centuries ago by a small monastic community, Peñalba is closely linked to the nearby Valley of Silence. The monks used a cave located several miles away on the opposite side of the valley as a place for prayer and meditation. Reaching that cave was the goal of today’s hike.
The trail led us through beautiful countryside and unspoiled nature. Along the way, we passed vegetable gardens and orchards filled with apple, pear, plum, and cherry trees. We also encountered two local women carrying baskets overflowing with freshly picked chanterelle mushrooms. At one point, I greeted a Chinese hiker with a cheerful “Nǐ hǎo,” which earned me a broad smile.
The cave itself was relatively small, featuring a few steps leading up to a simple platform and altar. While not grand in size, the setting conveyed a sense of peace and history that made the hike worthwhile.
Back in Peñalba, we stopped at a local restaurant for refreshments and a light meal before descending to Ponferrada and continuing east on Highway 6 toward León.
Our accommodation for the night was the Crisol Quindós Hotel, located about 1.2 miles from the city center.
For dinner, we followed the recommendation of a couple from León whom we had met earlier in Peñalba and dined at La Bodega del Húmedo. While the restaurant was pleasant and the atmosphere enjoyable, the food was good rather than exceptional, and none of our dishes particularly stood out.
Even so, it was another memorable day filled with mountain scenery, history, hiking, and unexpected encounters. Northern Spain continues to impress us at every turn.Read more
Leon - Burgos
June 12, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 73 °F
With check-out not until noon, we had a few extra hours this morning to continue exploring the historic center of León. After breakfast, we visited the Museo Botines Gaudí and the Museum of Contemporary Art. While both were interesting, the exhibits were not quite what we had expected.
Our drive from León to Burgos along the A-60 and A-231 was very pleasant. The sun made frequent appearances through scattered clouds, and the landscape consisted largely of wide-open plains covered with agricultural fields stretching to the horizon in every direction.
Before leaving León, the receptionist kindly helped us make reservations at their sister hotel in Burgos. The hotel was easy to find, conveniently located, and within walking distance of the historic city center.
Burgos, with a population of approximately 180,000, was founded in 884 and played an important role throughout medieval Spanish history. The Camino de Santiago passes directly through the city, bringing a steady flow of pilgrims from around the world.
The city’s main attraction is the magnificent Cathedral of Santa María on Plaza Rey Fernando. Widely regarded as one of Spain’s finest Gothic cathedrals, it was the primary reason for our visit. After a quick tapas lunch, Kurt and I toured the cathedral while Ursula and Renata relaxed in a nearby park.
Construction of the cathedral began in 1221 and continued over the next two centuries. During that time, numerous architects, builders, and artists contributed to its development, resulting in a remarkable blend of Gothic architecture and artistic craftsmanship.
I can honestly say that it is the largest cathedral I have ever visited. The sheer scale of the columns, the soaring arches, the intricate sculptures, the gilded decorations, and the detailed wood carvings were all impressive. Every room, chapel, and corridor seemed to reveal another masterpiece. The attached photographs will do a far better job of illustrating its grandeur than my words can.
This evening, we plan to return to Plaza Rey Fernando for a drink at a vermouth bar recommended in our travel guide, followed by dinner at a nearby pizzeria. It should be a pleasant way to end another enjoyable day of exploring Spain.Read more
Burgos - Logroño - Haro
June 13, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 68 °F
Today’s drive took us through some of Spain’s most beautiful countryside. For miles, agricultural fields stretched across the landscape before the winding BU-820 and BU-825 roads carried us into the mountains. The route led us through lush forests and past several reservoirs, providing scenic views throughout much of the journey before we eventually reached the city of Logroño.
Along the way, we stopped in a small village for coffee and a restroom break. As more people entered the café, we noticed that the atmosphere was unusually subdued. The patrons were friendly but lacked the cheerful, animated energy we have come to associate with Spain. Ursula quietly suggested that perhaps they had gathered following a funeral. Later, a local gentleman confirmed her intuition. A 78-year-old resident had recently passed away, and family and friends were meeting there after the service.
Midway through the mountains, we encountered a heavy rainstorm that lasted about 90 minutes. Visibility dropped considerably, and Kurt wisely reduced his speed while navigating the winding roads. Several motorcyclists and cyclists were caught in the downpour and were thoroughly drenched by the time we passed them.
By afternoon, we had entered the famous Rioja wine region. Vineyards stretched across the landscape in every direction, covering hillsides and valleys as far as the eye could see.
Our next stop was Logroño, an important city along the Camino de Santiago pilgrimage route. The city is home to the impressive Cathedral of Santa María de la Redonda, known for its twin Baroque towers and ornate façade. Other notable landmarks include the Cubo del Revellín fortress, sections of the old city wall, and the parks and bridges that line the Ebro River.
We did not spend a great deal of time in Logroño today, limiting our visit to coffee and a light snack. Our primary objective was to stop at the tourist office, where we obtained information and recommendations for tomorrow’s winery visits and wine tastings.
By late afternoon, we arrived in Haro, a small city considered by many to be the wine capital of Rioja. We checked into Hotel Plaza, where we will spend the next two nights. From our balcony, we have a lovely view of Plaza de la Paz, the town’s central square and gathering place.
Tomorrow promises to be a very different kind of day as we begin exploring the wineries and vineyards that have made this region famous throughout the world.Read more
Haro, Rioja
June 14, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 70 °F
Today did not go entirely according to plan.
Renata woke up with an upset stomach and decided it would be best to stay in bed and rest. Kurt joined us for breakfast but then returned to the hotel to keep her company and pick up some bananas and medication.
That left Ursula and me to continue the day’s adventure on our own. We took the van to the part of Haro where many of Rioja’s most famous wineries, or bodegas, are located.
Our first stop was Bodega Muga. The tasting room was beautiful and elegantly designed, but unfortunately, every table was occupied. Without a reservation, the wait time was about 30 minutes, and all winery tours were fully booked for the day. Rather than wait, we decided to continue exploring.
Our next destination was Gómez Cruzado, where things worked out much better. The winery was quieter, and we were quickly seated at a small table surrounded by rows of new oak barrels. We ordered a tasting of five Rioja red wines, accompanied by small olive oil soaked toasts used to cleanse the palate between samples.
Our waiter was excellent. He explained each wine in detail, describing how it differed from the previous one and how various fermentation and aging methods influence the final product. Stainless steel and concrete tanks, for example, preserve the pure character of the grapes, while oak barrels contribute additional flavors and complexity.
Wine #1
2022 Rioja blend of Garnacha and Tempranillo, aged six months in specially designed pear-shaped concrete vessels. We rated it 5/10.
Wine #2
2017 Viña Dorana, a blend of 60% Tempranillo and 40% Garnacha from southern Rioja, aged two years in French oak barrels. Smoother and more refined than the first wine. We rated it 6/10.
Wine #3
2017 Honorable, composed of 90% Tempranillo and small amounts of three other grape varieties from northern Rioja. Aged 18 months in new oak barrels. Richer and fuller-bodied, especially suitable with red meat. We rated it 6.5/10.
Wine #4
2016 Pancrudo, a single-vineyard wine made from 100% Garnacha and named after the highest mountain in Rioja. Aged for one year in concrete vessels. We rated it 7.5/10.
Wine #5
2011 Gran Reserva, consisting primarily of Tempranillo with Garnacha. Aged four years in French oak barrels. Smooth, balanced, and clearly the favorite of the tasting. We rated it 8.5/10.
Afterwards, we visited several other wineries, including López de Heredia, La Rioja Alta, and Manzanos Haro, to admire their facilities and learn more about the region’s winemaking traditions.
By early afternoon, hunger finally caught up with us, and we returned to Bodega Muga for lunch. A glass of rosé accompanied by bread, olives, ham, and sausage was exactly what we needed. Delicious! As a side note, our waiter was wearing an authentic Rolex Deepsea, which certainly caught my attention.
By the time we returned to the hotel, Renata was feeling somewhat better. The four of us then took a leisurely walk through Haro’s old town and up to a viewpoint overlooking the river valley and the surrounding vineyards. The afternoon was warm, and for once there was not a cloud in the sky.
Dinner was at Restaurante Los Caños, conveniently located within walking distance of the hotel. We enjoyed Rioja wine, tomato salad, grilled leeks, French fries, eggs with mushrooms, and entrecôte steak, followed by espresso and what may have been the best cheesecake of the trip.
Tomorrow, we continue our exploration of Rioja with a scenic drive through wine country to our next accommodation, Hotel San Camilo in Navarrete.Read more
Haro - Rioja - Navarrete
June 15, 2023 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 64 °F
Renata was feeling much better after breakfast, and that set the stage for a fantastic day.
Our goal was simple: experience the Rioja wine country. We had no fixed route and no strict schedule. The only destination we kept in mind was Navarrete, where we would spend the night.
It was refreshing to slow down and enjoy the journey rather than focus on getting somewhere quickly. Kurt left the main roads whenever possible, choosing narrow gravel lanes that wound through the vineyards. The vines were covered with fresh, light green shoots, and tiny grape clusters were beginning to form. Everything looked exceptionally healthy, not only the vineyards but also the surrounding countryside. Throughout the day, we saw tractors moving between the rows, spraying the vines to protect them from insects and disease. We also noticed that some farmers planted barley between vineyard sections, adding variety to the landscape.
One of the highlights of the day was our visit to the winery of Eguren Ugarte along the N-232a. We spent about an hour exploring the property, which includes wine production facilities, fermentation and aging areas, a hotel, a restaurant, and a gift shop. The entire estate was impeccably maintained. Everything was spotless and beautifully presented. Ursula purchased a bottle of grappa as a souvenir, while Kurt selected a bottle of Rioja wine to take home.
From there, it was only about a 20-minute drive to Laguardia, often considered one of the jewels of the Rioja region. Kurt managed to find an excellent parking spot near the church, and we soon found ourselves seated beneath the shade of chestnut trees at Restaurante Biazteri. Lunch consisted of wine, beer, pintxos, and coffee while we watched visitors stroll through the historic streets.
One thing we quickly noticed was that the Rioja wine region attracts considerably more tourism than the coastal areas we visited earlier on the trip. Restaurant and hotel prices here are often nearly double what we encountered along the northern coast.
Later in the afternoon, we arrived at Hotel San Camilo, located about a mile outside Navarrete. It was easy to find and provided a comfortable base for our final night in Spain.
Dinner at Restaurante Sala in Navarrete turned out to be one of the most memorable meals of our trip. The owner, Tatjana, immigrated from Romania twenty years ago and welcomed us as if we were longtime friends. Her warmth and hospitality made the evening special, and the food was excellent. It was the perfect way to celebrate our final full day in Spain.
Tomorrow will be our last day before returning home. We plan to visit two nearby wineries, one designed by the architect Santiago Calatrava and the other by Frank Gehry. It promises to be a fitting finale to a wonderful journey through northern Spain.Read more
Navarrete - Derio - Bilbao
June 16, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 81 °F
We woke to a beautiful morning of sunshine and blue skies, despite the weather app predicting a 30% chance of rain.
After enjoying a generous breakfast buffet at the hotel, we loaded our luggage into the van and set off for our final day of exploring Spain. Our route took us once again through the vineyards of Rioja, this time toward the famous Marqués de Riscal winery in Elciego.
The winery’s hotel, designed by renowned architect Frank Gehry, immediately caught our attention. Its bold, modern design reminded us of the Guggenheim Museum in Bilbao. A guided tour of the winery and hotel was available only in the afternoon for €20 per person, which did not fit our schedule. Fortunately, the wine shop and visitor center were open, allowing us to explore the property and learn more about its history.
Not content with the standard viewpoint, Kurt drove the van up a nearby hillside overlooking the vineyards. From there, we enjoyed an excellent view of Gehry’s remarkable creation. The building’s colorful, curved metal panels seemed to flow across the roof and walls like ribbons in the wind. The photos below capture the scene far better than words can.
Our next stop was the Ysios Winery, designed by Spanish architect Santiago Calatrava. The building’s graceful, wave-like roofline blends beautifully into the surrounding Rioja landscape and mirrors the profile of the nearby Sierra de Cantabria mountains. It was another striking example of how architecture and nature can complement one another.
Satisfied that we had experienced two of Rioja’s most distinctive architectural landmarks, we began our journey toward Bilbao via the A-2124. Along the way, we stopped in Vitoria-Gasteiz for a drink and a light lunch before continuing west.
Tonight, we are staying at the Holiday Inn Express near Bilbao Airport. Our flight to Madrid departs tomorrow at 9:10 AM. Our friends Kurt and Renata will remain in Spain for one more day before flying home to Zurich on June 18.
As this journey comes to an end, we find ourselves reflecting on what has been a truly memorable adventure through northern Spain. Every day brought something new, whether it was a spectacular landscape, a historic town, a fascinating cultural site, or an unforgettable meal. Over the course of approximately 1,675 miles, we experienced the diversity, beauty, and hospitality of a remarkable region.
A special thank you to Kurt and Renata for inviting us to join them on this wonderful journey. The memories we created together will stay with us for many years to come.
Until the next adventure .... hasta luego, España!Read more
