Haro - Rioja - Navarrete

Renata was feeling much better after breakfast, and that set the stage for a fantastic day.

Our goal was simple: experience the Rioja wine country. We had no fixed route and no strict schedule. The only destination we kept in mind was Navarrete, where we would spend the night.

It was refreshing to slow down and enjoy the journey rather than focus on getting somewhere quickly. Kurt left the main roads whenever possible, choosing narrow gravel lanes that wound through the vineyards. The vines were covered with fresh, light green shoots, and tiny grape clusters were beginning to form. Everything looked exceptionally healthy, not only the vineyards but also the surrounding countryside. Throughout the day, we saw tractors moving between the rows, spraying the vines to protect them from insects and disease. We also noticed that some farmers planted barley between vineyard sections, adding variety to the landscape.

One of the highlights of the day was our visit to the winery of Eguren Ugarte along the N-232a. We spent about an hour exploring the property, which includes wine production facilities, fermentation and aging areas, a hotel, a restaurant, and a gift shop. The entire estate was impeccably maintained. Everything was spotless and beautifully presented. Ursula purchased a bottle of grappa as a souvenir, while Kurt selected a bottle of Rioja wine to take home.

From there, it was only about a 20-minute drive to Laguardia, often considered one of the jewels of the Rioja region. Kurt managed to find an excellent parking spot near the church, and we soon found ourselves seated beneath the shade of chestnut trees at Restaurante Biazteri. Lunch consisted of wine, beer, pintxos, and coffee while we watched visitors stroll through the historic streets.

One thing we quickly noticed was that the Rioja wine region attracts considerably more tourism than the coastal areas we visited earlier on the trip. Restaurant and hotel prices here are often nearly double what we encountered along the northern coast.

Later in the afternoon, we arrived at Hotel San Camilo, located about a mile outside Navarrete. It was easy to find and provided a comfortable base for our final night in Spain.

Dinner at Restaurante Sala in Navarrete turned out to be one of the most memorable meals of our trip. The owner, Tatjana, immigrated from Romania twenty years ago and welcomed us as if we were longtime friends. Her warmth and hospitality made the evening special, and the food was excellent. It was the perfect way to celebrate our final full day in Spain.

Tomorrow will be our last day before returning home. We plan to visit two nearby wineries, one designed by the architect Santiago Calatrava and the other by Frank Gehry. It promises to be a fitting finale to a wonderful journey through northern Spain.Read more