Haro, Rioja

Today did not go entirely according to plan.

Renata woke up with an upset stomach and decided it would be best to stay in bed and rest. Kurt joined us for breakfast but then returned to the hotel to keep her company and pick up some bananas and medication.

That left Ursula and me to continue the day’s adventure on our own. We took the van to the part of Haro where many of Rioja’s most famous wineries, or bodegas, are located.

Our first stop was Bodega Muga. The tasting room was beautiful and elegantly designed, but unfortunately, every table was occupied. Without a reservation, the wait time was about 30 minutes, and all winery tours were fully booked for the day. Rather than wait, we decided to continue exploring.

Our next destination was Gómez Cruzado, where things worked out much better. The winery was quieter, and we were quickly seated at a small table surrounded by rows of new oak barrels. We ordered a tasting of five Rioja red wines, accompanied by small olive oil soaked toasts used to cleanse the palate between samples.

Our waiter was excellent. He explained each wine in detail, describing how it differed from the previous one and how various fermentation and aging methods influence the final product. Stainless steel and concrete tanks, for example, preserve the pure character of the grapes, while oak barrels contribute additional flavors and complexity.

Wine #1
2022 Rioja blend of Garnacha and Tempranillo, aged six months in specially designed pear-shaped concrete vessels. We rated it 5/10.

Wine #2
2017 Viña Dorana, a blend of 60% Tempranillo and 40% Garnacha from southern Rioja, aged two years in French oak barrels. Smoother and more refined than the first wine. We rated it 6/10.

Wine #3
2017 Honorable, composed of 90% Tempranillo and small amounts of three other grape varieties from northern Rioja. Aged 18 months in new oak barrels. Richer and fuller-bodied, especially suitable with red meat. We rated it 6.5/10.

Wine #4
2016 Pancrudo, a single-vineyard wine made from 100% Garnacha and named after the highest mountain in Rioja. Aged for one year in concrete vessels. We rated it 7.5/10.

Wine #5
2011 Gran Reserva, consisting primarily of Tempranillo with Garnacha. Aged four years in French oak barrels. Smooth, balanced, and clearly the favorite of the tasting. We rated it 8.5/10.

Afterwards, we visited several other wineries, including López de Heredia, La Rioja Alta, and Manzanos Haro, to admire their facilities and learn more about the region’s winemaking traditions.

By early afternoon, hunger finally caught up with us, and we returned to Bodega Muga for lunch. A glass of rosé accompanied by bread, olives, ham, and sausage was exactly what we needed. Delicious! As a side note, our waiter was wearing an authentic Rolex Deepsea, which certainly caught my attention.

By the time we returned to the hotel, Renata was feeling somewhat better. The four of us then took a leisurely walk through Haro’s old town and up to a viewpoint overlooking the river valley and the surrounding vineyards. The afternoon was warm, and for once there was not a cloud in the sky.

Dinner was at Restaurante Los Caños, conveniently located within walking distance of the hotel. We enjoyed Rioja wine, tomato salad, grilled leeks, French fries, eggs with mushrooms, and entrecôte steak, followed by espresso and what may have been the best cheesecake of the trip.

Tomorrow, we continue our exploration of Rioja with a scenic drive through wine country to our next accommodation, Hotel San Camilo in Navarrete.Leer más