Haro, Rioja

Today did not go according to plan.

Renata was not feeling well (upset stomach) and preferred to stay in bed this morning. Kurt met us alone for breakfast and decided to stay with Renata at the hotel and get some bananas and medication.

Ursula and I took the van and drove to an area of town with large Bodegas (wine cellars) of well-known winemakers.

Bodega Muga was the first showroom we visited. It looked adorable and sophisticated. Unfortunately, all the tasting tables were occupied, and since we didn't have a reservation, the wait time would have been about 30 minutes. In addition, the tours to visit the winery were booked out for the day. Thus, we decided to try other places.

At our next target, Gómez Cruzado, the place was not too busy, and we were promptly seated at a small table in front of rows and rows of new oak wine barrels. We ordered a tasting of five Rioja red wines. It was served with mini toasts soaked in olive oil (to clear our palate between each sample). Our waiter was fantastic and explained each wine clearly, how it differed from the previous one, and the different ways of storing it during fermentation. Stainless Steel or concrete containers are used to keep wine "honest" about how the grapes taste, as opposed to New, and French oak barrels, which add certain flavors.

Wine #1 - 2022 Rioja of 65% Garnacha, and 45% Tempranillo. It was stored for six months in special pear-shaped concrete containers. We rated it as a #5 on a scale from 1-10.

Wine #2 - 2017 Viña Porana, 60% Tempranillo, and 40% Garnacha. It was aged two years in French oak barrels from the Southern Rioja region. We rated it as a #6. It was smoother than the previous one.

Wine #3 - 2017 Honorable, 90% Tempranillo, blended with 10% of 3 other kinds of grapes from the northern region. It was fermented for 18 months in new oak barrels. We rated it a #6+ with solid flavors (excellent to drink with red meat).

Wine #4 - 2016 Pancrudo (named after the highest Rioja mountain), 100% Garnacha. Single Vinyard. Aged one year in the concrete container. We rated it a #7+.

Wine #5 - 2011 Gran Reserva. 70% Tempranillo, 25% Garnacha. Fermented for four years in French oak barrels. It was very nice and smooth. We rated it an #8+.

The next Bodegas we visited were López de Heredia, La Rioja Alta, and Manzanos Haro. By 1:45 PM, we felt a little hungry and returned to Bodega Muga for lunch. A glass of Rosé with bread, olives, ham, and sausage was just what the doctor ordered! Yummy. Our waiter was wearing a €36,000 authentic Rolex Deepsea.

Renata had somewhat recovered by the time we got back to the hotel, and we all decided to go for a stroll through the old town and up to a lookout point from where we could see the river and wine country. It was a warm afternoon, and not a cloud in the sky.

Tonight's dinner was at the Restaurant Los Caños, within walking distance. Good Rioja, tomato salad, grilled leaks, french fries, eggs w/mushrooms, entrecote, expresso coffee, and the best cheesecake ever!

We plan a drive through the Rioja wine region tomorrow to our booked Hotel San Camilo in Navarrete, Rioja.Læs mere