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Camino de Santiago
  • Aimee Onderlinde
  • Kim Mettler

Camino de Santiago

Hola! Thank you for joining us as we fly to Spain and tackle a whopping 500 miles on the legendary Camino de Santiago. 🥾🇪🇸 We're super excited to share every step of our journey with you all! 📸
Much love,
Las dos hermañas locas 💕 Read more
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  • Trip start
    April 14, 2024
    Camino de Santiago
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    Let our feet be our guides 🥾

    April 13, 2024 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 57 °F

    We pampered our piggies one last time before torturing them over the next 5 weeks!

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    And we’re off! Adiós amigos

    April 14, 2024 in the United States ⋅ ☁️ 59 °F

    Departing Detroit to Charlotte for a 4 hour layover, followed by an 8 hour flight to Madrid. We arrive in Madrid at 6am then take a train to Pamplona.

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    Sunset above the clouds
    Sunset above the clouds30 minute train from the airport to AtochaMadrid Airport30 minute train from the airport to Atocha3 hour train from Atocha to Pamplona

    Planes, trains & automobiles

    April 15, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 54 °F

    We have officially arrived in Madrid @ 6am local time, midnight home time with no zzzzz 😴 on the plane unfortunately. At 8am we will catch 2 different trains (about a 4 hours total) to Pamplona where we will spend the night. Tomorrow we will travel to the start of our Camino in Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port, France via bus or car. 🥾Read more

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    Our hostel for the eve... above the restaurantMonumento al Encierro, This famous city monument depicts the running of the bullsCafe Bar Goucho, famous for their Truffled EggLas Ventas Bullring, built in 1929, the largest bullring in SpainOutdoor elevators connecting the city & suburbs of PamplonaPostre y café descafeinado

    Pamplona - Part 1

    Apr 15–16, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 54 °F

    We spent the evening in Pamplona last night— the capital of the Navarre province in Northern Spain & famous for the Running of the Bulls each July. Even though we were both exhausted, we pushed to stay awake and acclimate to the time change, exploring the town and enjoying a nice dinner of pintxos (“pinchos”) or tapas then dessert at the famous Cafe Iruna, where Hemmingway was known to frequent. We’ll take a bus around the Pyrenees Mountains to Saint Jean Pied de Port this afternoon & begin our hike with roughly 3.5 miles to our alberge. Our pilgrimage will take us back through Pamplona in about 3 or 4 days!Read more

  • Camino de Santiago
    Outside the Pilgrim Office2Line of pilgrims waiting to get into the pilgrim passport officeOutside the Pilgrim OfficeOfficial Camino Frances registration bookInside the Pilgrim OfficeReceiving our first stamps in our pilgrim passports1We're official! 🎉We couldn't leave St Jean without a treat for the road3Holy cow were actually doing this!!! 🥾

    Gateway to the Camino Frances

    April 16, 2024 in France ⋅ ☁️ 48 °F

    Today we left Pamplona, Spain 🇪🇸 by bus crossing the Pyrenees mountain range to the quaint 12th century city of St Jean Pied de Port, France. 🇫🇷

    We explored the city for a couple of hours until the medieval cobbled streets led us to the Pilgrims Office where we signed the register and received our official Pilgrims Passport (Credential) along with our first stamp.

    The pilgrim passport is an essential document for any Camino pilgrim. It is used to collect stamps (sellos) from hostels, hotels, churches, bars and cafes and more along the way.

    In order to access pilgrim accommodation and to obtain your Compostela when you reach Santiago, you will need Pilgrim Credentials. This document will be asked for at pilgrim accommodation along the route and it serves as proof of your pilgrimage.

    Let the pilgrimage officially begin… onto Honto!    Read more

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    Au revoir St Jean1Yes, thats s vending machine in the middle of the beautiful countryside 😂View from our albergue room1Our first communal camino dinner ❤️

    Road to Hunto

    Apr 16–17, 2024 in France ⋅ ☁️ 45 °F

    🌍✨ Starting our Camino Frances journey! Today we tackled the first leg from Saint Jean Pied de Port to our cozy alberge in Hunto, a beautiful but challenging uphill 3.5-mile trek (close to 9 miles total for the day.) The path led us through the stunning countryside of the Navarre region where we were greeted by sheep, cows, horses, and the beautiful sounds of songbirds. The spring flowers are just beginning to bloom, adding bits of color to our scenic hike! 🌸🌺

    Upon arrival, we quickly changed and joined other guests for a hearty pilgrim dinner. 🍷It was wonderful to meet fellow travelers from Boston, Ireland, Germany, France, and Belgium—what a multicultural feast in every sense! This journey promises not just beautiful landscapes, but the beginning of good friendships as well. 🥾🌼🐑    Read more

  • Camino de Santiago
    Starting off from Honto
    After 2.5k we stopped at the only restaurant on the route for breakfast & a warm drinkAfter 2.5k we stopped at the only restaurant on the route for breakfast & a warm drinkAfter 2.5k we stopped at the only restaurant on the route for breakfast & a warm drinkYes! Thats a worm 🪱😳The route followed a mountain pass road at timesDue to weather we only got brief glimpses of the surrounding mountains & valley belowMany pilgrims have unfortunately lost their lives on this dangerous routeThis small shelter & emergency refuge was a welcome respite from the wind & rainThis small shelter & emergency refuge was a welcome respite from the wind & rainWater fountain on the border between France & Spain11Cold & wet but hanging in there!The end is near, only a few K's to go until we reach Roncesvalles.

    Crossing the Pyrenees Mountains 🥾

    April 17, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 39 °F

    The 24km (almost 15mile) "Route de Napoléon" between St Jean and Roncesvalles over the Pyrenees Mountains is said to be the most physically difficult stretch of trail that we are likely to encounter on the Camino de Santiago Frances. ⛰️

    This route has claimed many lives during harsh weather, our day included rain with high winds and cold temps in the mid 30-40 degrees . The day we were on this route a fellow pilgrim unfortunately needed to be emergency rescued due to hypothermia.

    To say that a hot shower and warm meal at the monastery in Roncesvalles at the end of this day were greatly appreciated would be an understatement!

    Here’s a little history for you…The "Route de Napoléon" is thus named because of its strategic importance during the Napoleonic wars and it is the route Napoleon took to cross into Spain following the old Roman road the Via Triana. It was also used as a route through the Pyrenees by Emperor Charlemagne.

    The Route Napoléon is the route that pilgrims have used for several centuries primarily because of its lack of trees and other places where bandits could hide, unlike the heavily wooded route through Valcarlos.    Read more

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    Roncesvalles Monastery & Pilgrims Hostel

    Apr 17–18, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 45 °F

    As history tells it, the doors to Roncesvalles Monastery were open for Christians and pagans, rich and poor, with no distinctions. Pilgrims could have a bath and have their shoes repaired. Sick people received the best attention and were treated with best medicine and they could rest in clean and soft beds. Fast forward to now, and it seems not much has changed—except perhaps the addition of indoor plumbing and electricity. Yesterday, after battling the elements through the Pyrenees mountains, we arrived at this ancient refuge, eager to experience firsthand the storied hospitality of this legendary stop on the Camino de Santiago.

    The promise of a hot shower, a soft bed, and a warm meal felt like a luxury—and in many ways, it was. The Roncesvalles Monastery, now bustling with volunteers rather than monks, offers around 420 beds and for $32 a person, we had access to sinks to hand wash our clothes, a shower, a warm dinner, a soft bed & a simple breakfast.

    After a much-needed long, hot shower, we partook in the pilgrim's mass, then enjoyed a communal dinner with new friends from Ireland, Germany, Italy & Washington DC.

    Sleeping in a dormitory style bed at the monastery is an experience akin to camping indoors with a chorus of nasal flutes. So. Much. Snoring. It seems that traversing over the Pyrenees in miserable weather conditions does wonders for the sinuses. 🤣But who's to complain? We were all in the same boat—or should I say, bed?

    The "lights out" policy at 10 PM was strictly enforced, as was the 6 AM wake-up call, which was not just a gentle nudge but a full sensory experience. Lights flickered on, and the sound of monks singing wafted through the halls, a reminder that it was time to rise, shine, and strap on those hiking boots for another day of adventure. Although it wasn’t the most restful night that either of us had, we are grateful for the experience 🙏🏼    Read more

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    Roncesvalles to Lintzoain

    Apr 18–19, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 50 °F

    After the long day yesterday crossing the Pyrenees mountains, we decided to make today a shorter stretch and only walked about 8 1/2 miles. We passed through the cute villages of Burguete, Espinal, & Bizkarreta along the way. It was nice to get to our Alberque in Lintzoain early to rest.Read more

  • Camino de Santiago
    Alberge in Lintzoain
    Making the best out of a wrong turnOur tracks to the wrong town 😱Our new friend Trix from the Netherlands 💕

    “The Error to Erro”

    April 19, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 63 °F

    (aka Hailing a taxi in Spain) Lintzoain to Zabaldika
    After multiple days of rain & cold, it was so nice to wake up to sunshine! Our morning journey out of Lintzoain was a beautiful one. Hiking through lush woodlands with melodies from migrating Spring songbirds birds filling the air, if it weren’t for distant views of the mountain range, the scenery could have easily been mistaken for Michigan!

    We’d read that there was quite a steep decent down into the next town— very rocky and difficult to navigate, made even more treacherous by the recent rains. Given that we’d both been struggling with knee pain, we opted to take the road (vs trail) and followed a wonderful new friend of ours from the Netherlands, who’d charted the course the night before. It wasn’t until about 3 miles down the winding road that a passing cyclist, who rightly assumed we were pilgrims, was kind enough to stop & point out in Spanish that we were headed the wrong direction! Doh!! Thanks to some very kind-hearted construction workers in the nearby town who called us a taxi we were able to get back on track 🚕    Read more

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    Zabaldika - Albergue Parroquial

    Apr 19–20, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 63 °F

    We happened upon this wonderful alberge in Zabaldika, which is attached to a small church run by the sisters of the sacred heart. It is a ‘donativo’ alberge, which means that rather than a set fee, you donate what you can to help cover the food for the next night of Pilgrim travelers. It was a truly incredible & moving experience for the both of us, from the community dinner with pilgrims from Slovenia, Korea, Spain, France, Hungary, Netherlands and Florida, to the service where we all shared our reasons for hiking the Camino, followed by the singing of the pilgrim song “Ultreia”, which losely translates to ‘move forward with courage.’ ❤️🙏🏼Read more

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    Many towns we pass through have fountains for water
    Trix from the NetherlandsOne of the many memorials we have seen along the way1

    Pamplona to Zariquiegui

    Apr 20–21, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 66 °F
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    Zariquiegui to Alto Del Perdón

    April 21, 2024 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 45 °F

    We left our albergue at dark climbing 1 1/2 miles up a steep set of switchbacks in hopes of arriving at Alto de Perdón, the Mount of Forgiveness for sunrise.

    Inscribed on the sculpture are the words: Donde se cruza el camino del viento con el de las estrellas — “where the path of the wind crosses with that of the stars.”

    The sculpture exhibits a small history of pilgrims and the pilgrimage…through various stages of development, from the beginning in the Middle Ages up to the present day, in the form of a procession.

    Of the twelve pilgrims, the first pilgrim appears to be searching for the route and symbolizes the beginning of interest in the pilgrimage. Next is a group of three that depicts the growth or rise in popularity of the Camino. These three are followed by another group depicted as merchants or tradesmen on horseback that symbolize the medieval era of merchants hawking their wares to the pilgrims. Spaced away from them is a solitary figure that characterizes the decline in pilgrimages due to political, religious, and social unrests from the mid-fourteenth to the mid-twentieth centuries. At the very end of the procession are two modern-day figures depicted to show the renewed interest and rise in popularity of the pilgrimage in the late twentieth century.

    It was a truly amazing place to watch the new day begin 🌅    Read more

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    1Awesome aqueduct

    Cirauqui to Villamayor de Monjardín

    April 22, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 45 °F

    Part 1 - Cirauqui to Estella
    Today we covered almost 25k (15.5 miles), the views never get old and it’s great to feel our bodies getting stronger along the way as we adjust to our new “normal”.

    Oh, and today’s journey included a free public wine fountain. Yes, you read that correctly… a wine tap on the outside of a winery building! 🍷

    Tomorrow looks like it might be a little wet & chilly. Based on the towns, we have to choose either a 20k walk or over 30k so we are opting for the 20k to Torres del Rio. We will have plenty of 30k days in the future. 🥾    Read more

  • Camino de Santiago
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    1111

    Cirauqui to Villamayor de Monjardín

    Apr 22–23, 2024 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 43 °F

    Part 2 - Estella to Villamayor de Monjardín
    Today we covered almost 25k (15.5 miles), the views never get old and it’s great to feel our bodies getting stronger along the way as we adjust to our new “normal”.

    Oh, and today’s journey included a free public wine fountain. Yes, you read that correctly… a wine tap on the outside of a winery building! 🍷

    Tomorrow looks like it might be a little wet & chilly. Based on the towns, we have to choose either a 20k walk or over 30k so we are opting for the 20k to Torres del Rio. We will have plenty of 30k days in the future. 🥾    Read more

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    1Can't have a rainbow 🌈 without a little rain!
    2Food truck serving fresh made omlettes out in the middle of nowhere?! Yes, please!Tree of wishesFinally made it to our destination!So happy to reach our hotel!Ice pack in hand and ready for a little R&R!Hotel room celebration (Dorritos pair perfectly with red wine btw!)🍾🍷1Yuummmmm?!? Not so much.. after this photo, we realized that huevos con atún means eggs w tuna 🤮

    100 Mile Celebration!! 🥾🍾🙌🏼🇪🇸🎊

    Apr 23–24, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 45 °F

    Villamayor de Monjardín to Viana
    Day #7 - 100 mile celebration!!! 🎉Today was a total grind but we knocked out a whopping 32k (20 miles!) 👊🏻

    Despite our initial plans yesterday, we were feeling pretty good when we reached the 20k town of Torres del Rio so we decided to push another 10k more through the wind & rain to the next town of Viana. Little did we know how strenuous that last 10.4k would be with many steep ups and downs along the way.

    Our bodies and minds are spent so tonight we treated ourselves to a private hotel room tonight with fuzzy blanks and a noon checkout!!! It even has a bathtub… oh the luxury!!!    Read more

  • Camino de Santiago
    This picture is the definition of no excuses!LogroñoMunicipal water tap in LogroñoOur home for the night in NavarreteTop bunks again ☹️

    Viana to Navarrete

    Apr 24–25, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 57 °F

    Today as we passed through the very large city of Logroño, we left the beautiful basque region of Navarra, and entered the region of La Rioja.

    La Rioja is the second smallest autonomous community in Spain and the smallest along the Camino Francés. This region has also has made its mark on the world as one of Spain's largest producers of wine. We will enjoy it while it lasts, which is only about 60km worth of walking along the camino. 🍷Read more

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    Let’s Talk Gear🥾 & Accomodations🕍

    April 25, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 50 °F

    Many have asked what exactly we brought with us on our Camino journey. We both tried to keep our packs to around 15 lbs🎒, including the weight of our actual backpacks. Aimee has a 32L Osprey Kestrel bag & I have a 33L Gregory Jade.
    We each have one set of clothes that we hike in and a separate set of clothes to wear after shower each night, which we also sleep in. The outfits are interchangeable for hiking/sleeping and we each brought a skirt as well, with hopes for warmer weather as we get into May. Each evening, most pilgrims hand-wash their clothes & hang dry for the next day. Occasionally there may be a pay washer & dryer available at the albergue, but it’s not the norm. We each have a fleece jacket, a hat, light weight gloves, a light rain jacket and a larger rain poncho which covers our packs, in heavy rain. We also have a minimal amount of toiletries, shower shoes and small list of personal extras. For sleeping, we each have a lightweight silk sleep sack, down quilt & small travel pillow.

    🦶As expected, footcare for the Camino is of utmost importance. We both have two pair of wool socks that we occasionally swap out mid-day and we both coat our feet in Vasoline each morning—a Camino hack which people swear by to prevent blisters, which has served us well so far

    👣As for shoes, we both have trail runners. Aimee has Topo Ultra Ventures & I have Altra Lonepeaks. For the most part we’re happy with our shoes so far, we’ll keep you posted after another 400 miles! 👟 Hiking poles on this trek are the norm for most pilgrims. They are hugely helpful with weight distribution and stability.

    There are a variety of accommodation options along the Camino. Most pilgrims opt to stay in Albergues or Hostels. Sleeping arrangements are generally mixed dormitory-style rooms which are usually 15-25 euro/per person. 💶 Occasionally there are private or semi-private rooms available for a bit more money. There are also some “Donativos” along the way, which are a donation based a pay-what-you-can-afford option. Hotels are available, but tend to a bit pricey and can add up quickly during a 5-6 week pilgrimage. While a private room is a nice treat occasionally, there’s something magical about sharing the journey with fellow pilgrims. It’s all about embracing the communal spirit of the Camino, opening up to the global community and leaving self-focus behind. 🌍

    I think that about covers it, feel free to ask questions!
    🎒👟🥾✌🏼    Read more

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    10AM Vino Rasado...the perfect attitude adjustment!My new hat...golf, anyone? 😂🏌️‍♀️Trix and KimOur instructions for the night

    Azofra to Grañón

    Apr 26–27, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 57 °F

    Today was a bit mentally challenging for me (this is Kim). It started with the realization that I’d left my new rain poncho in the last place we stayed, followed by also discovering that I’d lost my favorite baseball hat somewhere along the way! Misplacing things isn’t a new thing for me, as all who know me can attest to, but every single item in my pack has been carefully chosen and has a specific & useful purpose. It just took the wind out my sails and I was feeling pretty down for the first portion of our hike. About 7 miles into our day, we came through a small town with a fully functional country club and golf pro shop. I can’t begin to describe how random it was in the middle of a semi-abandoned town. Sister to the rescue….Aimee insisted I go buy a new hat, and when I came out, she had a glass of wine and a chocolate napoleon waiting ❤️ It’s the little things that make a big difference out here.

    Our 22.5k (14 mile) day brought us to the most unique habitation yet at Albergue de peregrinos de San Juan Bautista in Grañón. The albergue is a donativo, which houses 40 pilgrims a night. Sleeping arrangements were a bit challenging—mats on the floor in the top floor of the monastery, but the communal dinner with a gathering of peregrinos from around the world 🌎 🕯️made it worth it.    Read more

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    1At least we have a cute private room tonight for some R&RHanging clothes out to dry, Spanish style 🇪🇸When your amazing travel partner brings you takeout and things to help you recover 💕2I may be down, but I'm certainly not out!Current situation 😴... I swear she's still alive! 😂🤣

    Grañón to Belorado

    Apr 27–28, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 48 °F

    Part of life on the Camino is facing new challenges head on everyday! Unfortunately, today life threw us a curveball. I woke up with a horrible cold (this is Aimee). We were able to still push out a not so fun 16k (almost 10 miles) out of necessity, half of which was in a cold driving rain. 🌧️ Tomorrow we will be taking our first 0 (zero) day to rest and recover. Fingers crossed that it passed quickly and Kim doesn’t also get sick!🤧

    Not so great timing since we today we learned that all the pharmacies closed at two on Saturday and are not open tomorrow, apparently grocery stores do not carry cold medicine and you usually need a prescription to get it from the pharmacy. We did luckily bring a handful of Sudafed from home 🙏🏻    Read more

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    A nice bubble bath was just what the Dr. ordered!

    Pressing Pause in Burgos

    Apr 28–29, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 45 °F

    Taking a few days of “rest”, only hiking around 9-15k for a few days due to sickness, unfortunately put us behind in our timeline which forced us to make the difficult decision to take a taxi for a very short section (30k) of our Camino.

    Even though in the grand scheme of things this is a very small part of our journey, it was still a choice we had hoped not to have to make and we both had a pit in our stomachs as we passed by our fellow pilgrims walking while we wizzed by. Everything happens for a reason and in the end, it was the best choice for healing. ❤️‍🩹

    A lot of pilgrims we have met along the way are either walking their Camino with an open ended timeline or have given themselves much more time than we were able dedicate.

    As I (Aimee) write this post a few days later, I am now feeling much better and we are back on track to finish our Camino by our deadline 🤞🏻. Thank you for the well wishes!    Read more

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    Burgos Cathedral/UNESCO World Heritage

    April 28, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 45 °F

    Construction on the Cathedral began in 1221 and was completed in 1567. It is a comprehensive example of the evolution of Gothic style, with the entire history of Gothic art exhibited in its superb architecture and unique collection of art, including paintings, choir stalls, reredos, tombs, and stained-glass windows.Read more

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