• Jolene Unland
  • Jolene Unland

Colombia • Uruguay • Argentina

From Caribbean fortresses and coastal jungles, to Colombia’s coffee highlands, then south to Uruguay’s calm shores and Buenos Aires’ grand boulevards. A five-week immersion in flavor and sun followed by an Atlantic voyage to Spain with friends. Read more
  • Trip start
    December 29, 2025

    Elsewhere, For Now Tour

    December 29, 2025 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ -10 °C

    Hi all. We’re gearing up for extended travels in a warmer climate ☀️

    We will be breaking up our documentation on FindPenguins into two segments - our winter travels in South America and the Transatlantic Cruise to Spain, then the travels in Spain, Netherlands, Belgium, France, CampFI Spain, and Madrid.

    I enjoy documenting our travels here on FindPenguins since we get printed books which include our written text, photos, stats, and more, all on semi-gloss paper and in hardcover.

    Note that we share costs 😱. Our travel sits in the middle: not stripped down, not indulgent. Sharing costs helps give context for people planning long term travel.

    Somewhere between backpacker grit and influencer gloss. Not sleeping on buses, not posing on yachts (ok, maybe one yacht).
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  • Just In Case, Handled

    December 30, 2025 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 7 °C

    How we handle health and travel insurance for semi-nomadic travel and international trips over 90 days.

    We left conventional employment in 2020 and 2021 and have discovered that doesn’t eliminate health insurance options; in our case it expanded our options.

    Our view is that insurance exists to protect against rare, catastrophic medical events that could permanently damage our balance sheet, not minor travel inconveniences one can absorb with cash.

    For nationwide and international health insurance, we use Farm Bureau Health Plans. Our HDHP plan is administered by UnitedHealthcare. To learn more about HDHPs, scroll down to the bottom. (Note: To get this plan, we went through medical underwriting in 2023 and a 12 month “pre-existing condition waiting period” (or pre-existing condition exclusion period). It means that benefits for any condition that existed before the effective date of our coverage wasn’t paid by the plan until after that waiting period passed.)

    These plans have in-network and out-of-network coverages. International coverage is out-of-network. Our calendar year deductible is $4,500 for out-of-network charges. After the deductible is met, our plan pays 60% and we are responsible for 40%. Out-of-network out-of-pocket maximum is unlimited (while in network, our out-of-pocket maximum is $11,250 including premiums). Our plans cost us $304/month per person in 2026.

    In addition to coverages provided by our credit cards (Delta Reserve, Chase Sapphire Reserve, and VentureX), we have an Allianz AllTrips Premier Plan which covers us on top of our Farm Bureau plan for the first 90 days of travel 100 miles or more from home. The cost of this plan for one calendar year is $210 per person. Like our premium credit cards, the Allianz plan includes some nominal trip cancellation coverage, trip interruption and delay coverage, and baggage loss. However the main purpose of the plan is to have emergency transportation coverage ($500k) and emergency dental and medical ($50k).

    And since we’re overstaying our 90 day limit with the Allianz plan, we purchased a small ExactCare Value plan from Berkshire Hathaway for $115 each to cover us on our Tulip Time cruise in Belgium and Netherlands, and travel in Spain. This plan provides coverage for emergency transportation of $150k and medical emergency of $15k.

    We track all this insurance documentation and signed international medical directives in our TripIt App plan in case of medical emergencies. TripIt is an amazing application that tracks all travel information, real time flight monitoring, hotels, events, tours, dining, safety information, etc. It even allows you to share itineraries with an inner circle of friends and family. All for about $49.00 per year.

    Last, we do sign up for the Smart Traveler Enrollment Program (STEP), a free service that allows U.S. citizens and nationals to enroll our trip abroad so the Department of State can accurately and quickly contact us in case of emergency. We get updates about diseases, extreme weather, safety, and security for our specific destinations. It also has direct links to the closest embassy or consulate if there's an emergency like a natural disaster, civil unrest, or a family emergency.

    About HDHPs
    A high-deductible health plan (HDHP) is useful if you’re generally healthy and have some financial cushion, ideally years of invested HSA contributions from a previous employers plan.

    You pay lower monthly premiums, but you cover more of the first medical costs yourself. In exchange, you can use a Health Savings Account (HSA). An HSA lets you put money in pre-tax, invest it in low cost index funds, and later withdraw it tax-free for medical expenses - including in retirement.

    For a 50-year-old, this matters because healthcare costs usually rise with age. If you can pay routine doctor visits out of pocket, the HSA money can stay invested and grow, creating a dedicated, tax-free fund for future healthcare.

    The HDHP works best when insurance is used for big, unpredictable expenses, not small predictable ones. The savings from lower premiums can be invested rather than spent.

    It’s a poor fit if medical costs are high every year or cash flow is tight. Otherwise, it’s a practical way to prepare for tax-free healthcare later without overpaying now.

    Most people misunderstand HSAs because they treat them like flexible spending accounts (FSAs), when they are closer to a long-term investment account with special tax-advantaged rules.
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  • Ground Moves Enable Air Moves

    December 31, 2025 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 14 °C

    Our home base sits just under 200 miles (320 km) from our nearest major airport - Kansas City
    International Airport (MCI).
    Since we'll be away for an extended time, we'll be leaving our vehicle at our home base during this trip.
    We don't ask friends or family to give up seven hours of their day for airport runs, especially on New Year's Day.

    Hence, we picked up a rental SUV in Manhattan, Kansas today and will drive it to MCI on 1 January.

    Booking this one-way rental through Costco Travel lets us avoid one-way fees. Total cost: $126 for a mid-size SUV.
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  • The Art of Departure

    January 1 in the United States ⋅ ☁️ 3 °C

    Instead of a pre-dawn 3.5 hour drive to MCI, we booked a hotel room near the airport the night before.

    No rushing, no negotiating Kansas winter fog at 2:00 a.m.

    We drove to MCI today and returned the rental SUV. Tonight we will have a homemade salad for dinner, sleep, and will wake up tomorrow morning already “here.”

    Tomorrow morning’s travel turns into a short shuttle ride and a boarding pass—not a test of endurance - before our 5:43 am flight.

    Holiday Inn Kansas City Airport. $124.92. Free craft beer 🍻.

    Fuel for rental SUV. $23.19.
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  • Seamless International Data & Phone

    January 2 in the United States ⋅ ☁️ 7 °C

    We use US Mobile Unlimited Premium because it solves two opposite problems at once:
    reliable coverage in rural America and seamless international data abroad—under one flat price.

    No juggling SIMs, no short-term travel wireless plans, no guessing where service will disappear.

    One plan. One annual bill. $195 per year per person.

    Our phone plan isn’t tied to a single carrier. We can toggle between all three major U.S. cellular networks, which matters in rural areas and on the road.
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  • MCI to ATL to CTG

    January 2 in the United States ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    If you’re flying from farther west than Kansas City, it’s usually not possible to reach CTG (Cartagena) in one day.

    Yes, it’s an early departure from Kansas City—but the payoff is arriving in Cartagena by mid-afternoon. Our travel time was 7 hours, 30 minutes.

    Because we’re flexible on dates and routing, we often see counterintuitive pricing. This was one of those cases where the premium class priced below economy 😍. With the Delta Reserve card, we accessed the Delta lounge at MCI.

    Business class seats MCI-ATL-CTG $577.50 each. No gate change in ATL as it was the same plane all the way to CTG.

    Taxi to lodging: $11.00

    Groceries: $30.00
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  • High Above Cartagena

    January 2 in Colombia ⋅ ☁️ 28 °C

    Our lodging in Cartagena for the next few days is in a fully furnished 2 bedroom condo with some of the best views of Cartagena and the ocean. It’s within walking distance of the historic center, several grocery stores, and the modern city.

    The condo comes with security, infinity pool access, and gym.

    It’s really hopping outside as it’s the peak tourism season in Cartagena. But we don’t hear it on the 25th floor.

    Murano Centro 1 Condo: $232.34 per night.

    Cartagena is far more expensive than most of Colombia because it operates on a different economic model. Prices are effectively pegged to U.S. and European tourists, not local Colombian incomes.

    As a major Caribbean cruise port and destination-wedding city, demand is high, short-term, and relatively price-insensitive. Visitors are often here for a day or a week.

    At the same time, supply is tightly constrained. The historic walled city is small, UNESCO-protected, and heavily regulated, so new hotels or housing can’t easily be added. When demand rises, prices rise instead of capacity. Real estate is also influenced by foreign buyers and wealthy Colombians, pushing rents and service costs higher.

    Add higher operating costs—air-conditioning year-round, private security, imported food and wine—and the result is a clear split economy.

    Cartagena’s tourist core feels more like a Caribbean resort city embedded inside Colombia, while everyday Colombian prices exist just a few kilometers away, mostly unseen by visitors (we will go see this on Sunday).
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  • Street Eats of the Caribbean

    January 3 in Colombia ⋅ ☁️ 29 °C

    Today we went on a highly rated food tour by Nexperience in Cartagena. It blended street food, local kitchens, and cultural context.

    We enjoyed arepas de huevo, empanadas, fried plantains, fresh fruit, ceviche, coffee, sweets rooted in Afro-Caribbean traditions, and more!

    Our guide explained the ingredients, history, and daily eating habits while moving through neighborhoods and markets.

    Portions were generous but paced, emphasizing authenticity over fine dining.

    The three hour experience was social, walkable, and focused on understanding Cartagena’s food culture through everyday flavors.

    Two tickets $78.00. Tour group was 8 people total.

    Groceries $8.00.
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  • Chinatown & street art (Barrio Chino)

    January 4 in Colombia ⋅ ☁️ 28 °C

    Cartagena’s Chinatown is small and symbolic rather than demographic. Its significance is cultural and political.

    The street art demonstrates migration layering. Chinese traders arrived via Caribbean trade routes; today the reference is more memory than population.

    The murals transform neglected streets into legible space—color, identity, and safety signals.

    The murals are by Colombian artists using Asian motifs to talk about labor, diaspora, and marginality, not China itself.

    This art is not decorative. It is urban signaling—asserting presence in areas historically ignored by planners.
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  • Mercado de Bazurto

    January 4 in Colombia ⋅ ☁️ 28 °C

    Mercado de Bazurto is a sprawling, traditional public market in Cartagena, Colombia.

    Known for its sensory intensity and cultural authenticity, it serves as the city’s primary wholesale and retail marketplace for food, goods, and artisan products, reflecting the everyday life of Cartagena’s residents beyond its tourist areas.

    Bazurto began as an informal trading area in the 1940s and 1950s, growing organically around Cartagena’s port and railway connections.

    Over time, it became the central distribution point for agricultural and marine products from the Caribbean coast.

    Despite modernization efforts, the market has maintained its unstructured layout and community-driven economy, embodying the city’s working-class roots.

    The market extends across narrow alleys and large open sections packed with vendors selling produce, meat, spices, clothing, and household items. Strong aromas, loud music, and dense pedestrian traffic define the atmosphere.

    While visually overwhelming, it offers an authentic view of Cartagena’s daily commerce, far removed from the polished tourist zones of Getsemaní and the Walled City.

    Bazurto holds symbolic importance as a living expression of Cartagena’s Afro-Caribbean identity and informal economy. The market’s culinary scene, offering traditional fried fish, arepas, and soups, attracts food enthusiasts seeking authentic costeño flavors.

    Mercado de Bazurto is challenging for first-time visitors due to its scale and intensity. A guide is needed for first time visitors to the Mercado.

    Bazurto operates on local social contracts. A guide signals legitimacy, reducing the risk of being misread as exploitable or disrespectful.

    Without explanation, one sees chaos. With context, you see supply chains, price formation, labor hierarchies, and survival strategies.

    Photography, questions, and movement require local consent norms.

    The market is non-linear. A guide knows where to walk, when to pause, and which zones are inappropriate for outsiders. We were shown how poverty, informality, and resilience coexist—rather than consuming a shallow “slum tour” experience.

    We hired a private tour guide from Cartagena Insider Tours. It is a responsible tourism operator based in Cartagena de Indias, Colombia. Established by the non-profit FEM Colombia (Fundación por la Educación Multidimensional), the initiative promotes community-based tourism that empowers Afro-Colombian and Indigenous communities in the Caribbean region.

    Tour + Transport + Food + Music thumbdrive + handmade poster. $160.00 total.
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  • Celele Birthday Lunch 🎉

    January 5 in Colombia ⋅ ☁️ 29 °C

    Celele is widely regarded as one of the top restaurants in Latin America and Colombia.

    It is ranked on Latin America’s 50 Best Restaurants, and is consistently cited among Colombia’s best restaurants - recognized for research-driven Caribbean cuisine, biodiversity, and regional sourcing.

    Celele’s reputation is less about global luxury theatrics and more about intellectual cuisine: documenting Caribbean ingredients, working with local communities, and translating ethnobotany into fine dining.

    At its core, Celele is not about luxury, status, or complicated technique meant to impress insiders.

    The restaurant researches Caribbean ingredients that rarely appear in restaurants—native fruits, herbs, tubers, and fermentation methods—and turns them into coherent, thoughtful meals. In doing so, it documents food traditions that are often oral, informal, and at risk of disappearing.

    For someone unfamiliar with fine dining, this kind of restaurant is important because it functions like a living archive.

    Instead of putting culture in a museum, it puts it on the plate. Diners taste ecosystems, climates, and histories—how coastal, river, and inland communities eat, what grows locally, and why those foods matter. The experience creates understanding, not just pleasure.

    Restaurants like Celele also influence the broader food system. By buying from small producers, foragers, and fishermen, they create economic value for local knowledge. Ingredients that were once seen as “poor food” or irrelevant gain dignity and demand. That shifts incentives away from imported, standardized products and toward celebrating biodiversity.

    Finally, places like Celele help redefine fine dining itself. Excellence can come from curiosity, rigor, and respect for place.

    10 course menu for two including gratuity: $174.00
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  • Getsemaní Street Art Tour

    January 6 in Colombia ⋅ ⛅ 28 °C

    We took a three-hour street art tour in Getsemaní, just outside the walled city of Cartagena. We covered Calle de la Sierpe, Calle San Juan, Calle del Espíritu Santo, and Plaza de la Trinidad.

    We saw large-scale murals painted directly onto residential walls, corner shops, and former warehouses.

    The dominant subjects are people: Afro-Caribbean women, children, elders, musicians, boxers, dockworkers, and street vendors.

    Many portraits represent real residents or archetypes drawn from neighborhood life rather than fictional figures. Common visual elements include braids, drums, fruit baskets, fishing nets, and clenched fists—symbols tied to labor, culture, resistance, and identity.

    Our guide explained how Getsemaní functioned historically as a working-class, Afro-descendant neighborhood, separate from the elite colonial center. Murals often reference independence history, informal economies, and social memory. Artists include Cartagena locals alongside Colombian and international muralists, with styles ranging from photorealism to graphic illustration and text-based protest art.

    Getsemaní has undergone a rapid gentrification process. Here’s the high level timeline.

    Pre-2000s: Predominantly residential, low rents, minimal tourism, limited infrastructure.

    Early–mid 2000s: Restoration of Cartagena’s historic center increases spillover interest; artists and backpackers begin arriving.

    2010–2015: Street art expands rapidly; hostels, cafés, and bars open; Getsemaní gains international visibility.

    2016–2019: Property values rise sharply; boutique hotels replace family homes; resident displacement accelerates.

    2020–present: Heavily touristed cultural zone; street art remains but increasingly coexists with commercial branding and regulated tours.

    On the ground, this represents a 5–8× increase in property values over roughly 20 years.

    Pre-2000s, Getsemaní had an estimated 8,000–10,000 residents, mostly Afro-descendant, working-class families. Today, estimates suggest fewer than 2,000 permanent residents remain. This implies 60–75% displacement, driven by rising rents, property taxes, sales to investors, and conversion of homes into boutique hotels, hostels, and short-term rentals.

    Private three hour tour + transport $108.
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  • Sierpe - Caribe Fusión

    January 6 in Colombia ⋅ ⛅ 29 °C

    Sierpe Caribe Fusión is a Caribbean-fusion seafood restaurant in Cartagena’s Getsemaní neighborhood known for fresh local ingredients, creative presentations, and friendly service, with a focus on seafood and Caribbean flavors. A former colleague had dined here a few years ago and were happy for the recommendation.

    We had an appetizer built on a fried plantain base topped with mushrooms and beef.

    Our meal included two ceviches: one prepared with coconut milk and another featuring squid and sesame.

    Meal: $47.50.
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  • Zirwa Hotel Botique

    January 8 in Colombia ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

    Zirwa Hotel Botique is an eco-focused boutique property located near the entrance of Tayrona National Natural Park.

    It consists of three private cabins set in forested terrain. Rooms are air-conditioned and include private bathrooms and daily service. The property has an on-site restaurant and Wi-Fi.

    Staying in the park provides immediate access to trails and beaches, fewer crowds early and late in the day, and a quieter, nature-focused experience without daily transport.

    $134 (USD) per night including breakfast for two.

    A typical three course meal made to order from local products is between $12 and $18, Colombian beer $3, and 1 liter bottles water for $2.
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  • Parque Nacional Natural Tayrona

    January 9 in Colombia ⋅ ⛅ 27 °C

    On Wednesday, we had a driver take us from our hotel in Cartagena to Zirwa Botique Hotel inside the Parque Nacional Natural Tayrona.

    Using a driver saves time, avoids multiple bus transfers, and reaches rural areas like this park directly. No flights operate on this area from Cartagena, making road travel the only practical option.

    Parque Nacional Natural Tayrona lies on Colombia’s Caribbean coast near Santa Marta, where the Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta mountains descend directly into the sea. The park protects a rare convergence of ecosystems: tropical rainforest, dry forest, mangroves, coral reefs, and white-sand beaches.

    Tayrona is both ecologically and culturally significant. It was once home to the Tayrona Indigenous civilization, and archaeological remains—stone terraces, pathways, and foundations—are still visible, especially at sites like Pueblito Chairama. Today, Indigenous groups including the Kogi, Arhuaco, Wiwa, and Kankuamo consider the park part of a living sacred landscape.

    Visitors access the park primarily on foot, via forest trails connecting beaches and coves. There are no roads inside.

    Swimming conditions vary by beach, and some areas are closed due to strong currents. The park periodically closes to allow ecological recovery.

    Tayrona is known for its biodiversity, dramatic scenery, and relative wildness. Access is regulated, visitor numbers are capped, and basic infrastructure is intentionally limited to reduce environmental impact.

    Transport from Cartagena to our lodging inside the park. $250

    Park entrance for 5 nights. $26 each

    Park insurance for 5 nights. $22.50 each (essentially a donation to EMS services).

    Proof of yellow fever vaccine required for entry.
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  • More of Tayrona National Park

    January 10 in Colombia ⋅ ☁️ 26 °C

    Tayrona National Natural Park lies on Colombia’s Caribbean coast where tropical dry forest, rainforest foothills of the Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta, and marine ecosystems intersect.

    The park contains a series of beaches with distinct conditions. Cabo San Juan and La Piscina are among the calmer, swimmable areas, protected by offshore rock formations.

    Arrecifes and several open-coast beaches have strong currents and are unsafe for swimming. Beaches are typically backed by dense jungle rather than development, and access is primarily on foot via marked trails.

    Tayrona is a biodiversity hotspot. On land, the park supports over 100 mammal species, including howler monkeys, capuchins, deer, and small wild cats; jaguars and pumas are present but rarely seen. More than 300 bird species have been recorded, making it an important site for Caribbean and migratory birds.

    Reptiles include iguanas, snakes, and caimans in freshwater areas. Plant diversity exceeds 700 species, spanning dry forest, humid forest, and mangrove zones.

    Marine areas include coral reefs, rocky shore habitats, and seagrass beds, supporting 100+ coral species and a wide range of fish and invertebrates. Seasonal upwelling affects water temperature and visibility.

    Tayrona is one of Colombia’s most visited national parks, receiving roughly 500,000–600,000 visitors per year in recent data.
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  • Rainy day in Tayrona

    January 11 in Colombia ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

    Tayrona National Natural Park has a tropical climate with substantial rainfall that varies by season. Annual rainfall is about 1,389 mm (55 inches) per year.

    Wet season is typically May–June and September–November, when showers and heavier afternoon downpours are more frequent. 

    Even in less rainy months there are short, intense showers (like we experienced overnight) on many days. The dry season (e.g., December–March) has a lower chance of rain but high humidity persists.

    We’re glad that we stayed five nights in the park as we got to experience dry and wet conditions in a tropical zone.
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  • Moving Inland: Tayrona Park to Filandia

    January 12 in Colombia ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C

    Monday was “moving day”.

    We went from coastal Caribbean tropical jungle to the temperate agricultural (coffee) highlands of the Andes mountains.

    We went from sea level to 2000 meters (6300 feet). The temperature here in Filandia is mild and springlike (between 15–22 °C).

    After breakfast we went by private transfer ($53 total for two, 1 hour 10 minutes drive) from our hotel to SMR airport (16 km south of Santa Marta).

    At the airport we had couple of Mr Bono pig in a blankets and Mr Bono rolls made from cassava flour for lunch. $7.00 total.

    The airport has one of the shortest international runways (1700 meters) and is right on the beach.

    We accessed the VIP lounge for free with our Priority Passes that come with our VentureX cards. The view from the lounge was of beach goers enjoying the last hour of sun for the day.

    Next we boarded an Avianca flight (SMR to PEI) to Pereira (1.5 hours flight). $19.59 and 4000 Avianca LifeMiles each (includes one personal item, one carryon bag of 10 kg, one checked bag of 23 kg, and business class seats 💺😃.

    We went by private transport from Pereira (1 hour 15 minutes) to Filandia.

    Then checked into our lodging for the week. We’re staying at La Puesta del Sol. $125 per night.

    We had dinner at Helena Adentro’s La Casa Rosa. We had two local beers from Armenia, Colombia, shredded corn and beef bowl and grilled trout with coconut rice, crispy green plantains and chips with garden salad.
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  • Coffee Tour La Palma

    January 13 in Colombia ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    La Palma Coffee Tour (Filandia) is associated with La Palma y El Tucán, a Colombian specialty coffee producer founded in 2009.

    The tour covered the coffee production cycle from cultivation to export preparation. It includes an overview of coffee varieties grown at high elevation in the Central Andes and farm-level practices such as selective hand harvesting.

    We were shown post-harvest processing methods used by the company, including washed, honey, and natural coffees, as well as controlled and experimental fermentation techniques.

    The tour explained depulping, fermentation, washing, drying (patio and mechanical), and milling. Emphasis is placed on quality control, including sorting, moisture measurement, and defect removal.

    After the tour we did a cupping session, demonstrating how processing methods (Chemex pourover, French press and Italian Moka pot) influence aroma, acidity, body, and flavor.

    La Palma y El Tucán operates both estate-grown production and a network-based model, working with independent Colombian producers. The company exports specialty-grade coffee to international markets and is known for producing microlots and experimental lots alongside traditional profiles.

    Three hours, including transport, tour tasting, and gratuity, $30 each.
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  • Mirim Restaurante

    January 14 in Colombia ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    Mirim Restaurante is a popular spot in Filandia known for modern Colombian cooking with thoughtful presentation. It sits near the Barbas Bremen natural reserve and we enjoyed great views of the Andean landscape as part of the meal.

    The menu highlights regional ingredients (including trout, pork, chicken, and seasonal vegetables).

    We each had a cocktail. Mine was nitrogen fog Vessel of Time with passion fruit liqueur, Gordon's dry gin, lemon juice, radish and currant syrup, jalapeño perfume and bitter orange.

    Darren had A King of the House. It had tequila, jalapeño, mango biche and lemon.

    Our appetizer was Chorizo Chirrillas. Local pork sausage, grilled with sweet chili sauce, creamy arepa, and candied bell peppers.

    My main course was
    stir-fried rice with beef tenderloin, shrimp, vegetables, topped with a fried egg and crispy leeks.

    Darren’s main course was a pork chop with green salad and potatoes.

    Total for the two drinks, starter, two entrees, sparkling water and gratuity was $82.60.
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  • Reserva Natural Bremen

    January 15 in Colombia ⋅ 🌧 16 °C

    We took a private tour with a biologist in the Bremen Forest (Reserva Natural Bremen). It is a protected Andean cloud forest in Quindío at roughly 2,000–2,600 m elevation.

    Vegetation includes oak (Quercus humboldtii), tree ferns, palms, bamboo, and a high diversity of epiphytes such as orchids, bromeliads, and mosses adapted to constant humidity.

    The reserve is known for high bird diversity (200+ species recorded). Notable fauna include Andean guan, emerald toucanet (we saw two!), masked trogon, mountain tanagers, and mixed-species understory flocks.

    We saw signs of puma and leopards, but didn’t spot any.

    Amphibians (cloud-forest frogs), reptiles, and small mammals such as armadillos are sometimes seen. We only heard two species poisonous frogs singing.

    The forest plays a role in watershed protection, with multiple streams originating within the reserve and supporting downstream agriculture.

    The private tour/hike (four hours) with biologist, insurance, transportation, water, coffee and gratuity was $70 total.
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  • Blue-crowned Motmot

    January 16 in Colombia ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    Seen while hiking on the edge of Salento, this is a Blue-crowned Motmot (aka Andean Motmot).

    It is a medium-sized forest bird with a bright turquoise crown edged in black, a dark facial mask, green body, and blue wings. The long tail—often ending in racket-shaped tips—is a key field mark, though tail tips can be worn down.

    Motmots are typically solitary and sit motionless on shaded branches, making them easier to hear than to spot.

    They feed on insects, small reptiles, and fruit, foraging quietly along forest edges and secondary growth. This species is common in Colombia at low to mid elevations and adapts well to disturbed habitats near farms and trails. A characteristic behavior is slow, side-to-side tail swinging like a pendulum.
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  • Antioquia coffee-region architecture

    January 16 in Colombia ⋅ 🌧 19 °C

    Salento’s colorful doors are primarily wooden, painted in bright solid colors or contrasting panels. Many feature carved or raised geometric designs and are framed by equally painted window shutters. The doors often include small inset windows with metal grilles.

    This style reflects Antioquia coffee-region architecture from the late 19th and early 20th centuries, when homes were built with local timber and lime-based paints.

    Color choices historically helped identify households and businesses and protected wood from humidity. The consistent use of bold colors and decorative trim is preserved through municipal guidelines and routine repainting.
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  • Filandia or Salento?

    January 17 in Colombia ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

    Choosing Filandia over Salento makes sense for travelers who value daily livability over postcard density.

    Filandia is quieter, less commercialized, and more oriented toward residents than short-stay tourism. The town has a broader mix of local grocery stores, bakeries, and everyday services, making longer stays easier.

    In Filandia, streets are calmer, with fewer tour buses, vendors, and crowds concentrated around a single square. Dining tends to be more local (lots of fresh fruits and vegetables) and less optimized for international visitors (lots of fried food restaurants in Salento). Prices are generally lower in Filandia and less inflated by day-trip demand.

    Salento functions more as a tourism hub: heavy foot traffic, souvenir saturation, aggressive hawking, and infrastructure designed around quick visits to the Cocora Valley. It is efficient for highlights, but honestly exhausting for routine life.

    Filandia offers better access to countryside walks, working farms, and normal rhythms—more town than theme, and easier to inhabit rather than consume.

    To experience the “excitement” of Salento as a day trip from Filandia, day trips can be taken by Jeep Willys found in the town square. Cost is $6.00 round trip per person (35 minutes each way).
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