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- Hari 26
- Rabu, 25 Mei 2022
- ☀️ 38 °C
- Ketinggian: 654 mi
SpanyolParque de La Marina Española41°30’23” N 5°44’35” W
El Cubo - Zamora 32 km

I was up early for breakfast at the main albergue building and then Anita and I went along to the square to get the bus which was on time and ridiculously cheap. We were in Zamora within 30 mins, and the first thing we did was walk 40 mins to the Decathlon store as Anita was needing some supplies, whilst there I bought another long sleeved top and a warmer fleece. It turned out that the long walk uphill was the camino route we would be following the next day, so that was helpful, at least I now knew where I was going in the morning.
It was way too early for the albergue to be open so Anita and I toured the old part of town, and visited a museum. We had a great time, and great chat, once again I was struck by how easy she was to be with, with her nothing felt forced or strained, whilst there were silences, none of them were awkward, we were just enjoying one another's company. After our tour round the old part of the city we went to the albergue and sat and had refreshments at a very beautiful spot with amazing views just next to the albergue. I was so glad we had decided to do this, I don't know if I will ever be in Zamora again but I am glad we had this opportunity, and very happy to have spent the day with Anita.
The albergue was donativo and very nice, the hospitaleros were super friendly and helpful, and funny. The guy booking us in made a big show of being sorry for not realising I was Scottish, the wording on the cover of new UK passport ends with the word Ireland, and almost every hospitalero thought I was Irish. It got to the point when booking in I would start off by saying - "no Irlanda del Norte, no Inglaterra, soy Escocés!" The albergue is very clean and tidy with good facilities, including excellent toilets and showers and a centrifuge for the washing.
We had heard bad reports about the municipal albergue in our next destination so Anita was going to try and book us into a private albergue, unfortunately they were all full. Mirjam arrived safely, I was still trying to find a way of getting to know her better, so far it's not been easy, she is quite shy, but every minute I spend with her convinces me i should try. I already know that she loves coffee because she was carrying her own coffee maker, a woman after my own heart!
The 10pm lights out rule is enforced here so we all went to bed at a reasonable time, I plan to be up early and away as the temperatures for tomorrow are high from early morning.Baca selengkapnya
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- Hari 27
- Kamis, 26 Mei 2022
- ☀️ 34 °C
- Ketinggian: 696 mi
SpanyolMontamarta41°38’42” N 5°48’18” W
Zamora - Montamarta 21 km

I set off at 0545 and headed up the 2 km long hill out of the city, the path soon turned off the tarmac and onto the standard camino gravel. Again it was one of those days in which it was difficult to get lost as there was only one path with few opportunities to turn off but all of which were clearly marked. The path was fairly flat with few inclines that were long rather steep, and a featureless landscape of crop fields.
As we were unable to get into a private albergue, I had no option to but to go to the municipal and when I arrived I saw Luis and Delphine, two lovely Spanish guys from Bilbao who were very fast walkers but spoke virtually no English. Julia, a lovely Canadian girl of Korean descent was also there, she was super fit and also a fast walker, she was friends with Anita and Mirjam.
I was also very surprised to see Anita sitting on a bench outside as she had been in her bed when I left Zamora. It turned out that after walking 5-6 km she suddenly had an incredible pain in her good knee, so painful in fact that she was unable to put any weight on it. She had to sit down on the side of the camino path and about 30 minutes later Mirjam found her and phoned for a taxi to bring her to Montamarta. I sat and chatted with her for a while but I didn't know what to say to her, I was devastated for her because at that point it was looking very much like her camino was over. I could only imagine how I would have felt in her situation, and I was very sad at the thought of her leaving.
Mirjam arrived and after a bit of discussion with Anita and the guys it was decided to call 112, the emergency services. Luis handled the call, and it was agreed that an ambulance would be sent to take Anita back for medical treatment in Zamora, and so we waited for the ambulance, worried about Anita. The ambulance arrived and we waved her goodbye, there was a lot of joking and laughing but in truth I was broken-hearted. Over the last few days I have become incredibly fond of her, and as I thought about her going back to Zamora I didn't know if I would ever see her again. On the camino, people come and go, but I already knew that I wanted to be friends with her beyond the camino.
With Anita very much in our minds and on our hearts, we got on with the tasks before us. The report we had about the albergue was that it was not clean, but when we arrived the hospitalero was taking in the washing and then we saw him mopping the floors, once he was gone we ventured in for a look. Having had a look we all split up to properly clean the place, I drew the short straw and had to clean the gents toilets which were filthy, and before long the albergue was more habitable. The showers were ok, and there was a good kitchen, and the toilets were now very clean.
We got word back from Anita, the X-ray didn't show anything conclusive so they were basically just recommending painkillers and rest for a few days, I prayed for her recovery.
Luis, Delphine, Mirjam, Julia and myself walked into the town to a restaurant that I think had been recommended, and had an excellent meal, three courses and a drink for 11€, I'd like to see that in Scotland. Later in the albergue, I was able to have a long, wonderful, friendship-building conversation with Mirjam, which I was thankful for.
I got my stuff ready for the next day, read through the guidebook, and got ready for bed, it is a slightly longer walk tomorrow and it will be hot, but I have decided to stop worrying about what might or might not happen tomorrow, it just robs you of your joy today. Also, looking back, none of the things I worried about over the past four weeks have happened, and unexpected problems that arose were dealt with as they happened. I am slowly learning how to live in the moment. Right at that moment, it was time for bed.Baca selengkapnya
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- Hari 28
- Jumat, 27 Mei 2022
- ☀️ 35 °C
- Ketinggian: 708 mi
SpanyolGranja de Moreruela41°48’35” N 5°44’21” W
Montamarta - Granja de Moreruela 24 km

Luis' alarm went off early but I was already awake, and was up and out the door just 10 minutes in front of them, Mirjam was of course, still sound asleep. I found the walk quite difficult today, my right hip was very sore but the only way is forward so I kept going. Having said that, I was really enjoying the walk, and when I was having a break I saw Julia on the road and shouted to her and we met up and walked together for a while. It was the first time I had walked with her and I enjoyed her chat, I found her to be really engaging and interesting, clearly very smart and independent. I was so glad we were able to share that time together, and I hoped we would have many more moments like that. We arrived at one of the towns on the route but there was no café so we stopped at a bench for a rest but rather than resting, Julia wanted us to do some stretching exercises, and I couldn't say no. Reader, it was the only stretch exercises I had done since PE at school more than 40 years earlier, but I managed, and to be honest, it made me love her just a little bit more.
When I got to Granja I found Luis and Delphine sitting eating ice cream outside the albergue, they had somehow passed me, I think they followed the main road rather than the camino trail. They told me to go to the bar down the street and leave my backpack until we could get into the albergue. So, off I went and had coffee and tortilla then more coffee whilst I was there. When the time came we got our credentials stamped and made our way over to the albergue which despite the 6€ price, the albergue was quite decent with excellent toilets and showers.
Mirjam and Anne (Anne- with an uh) a very lovely German girl who was friends with Anita and Mirjam, arrived and we went for lunch together, and we met Julia in the restaurant and had the most wonderful time, even though the food was not brilliant. We had a terrific discussion about Van Gogh and art, Julia was wearing a Van Gogh t-shirt that she had designed herself. It was a great design and she is obviously a very talented graphic designer. I really enjoyed my time sitting chatting and getting to know the three of them better, I have never been as impressed by anyone as I am by these three young women, and meeting them has been one of the great highlights of my camino.
I was encouraged to get a message from Anita to say that she had walked a little bit in Zamora today and she was hopeful of joining us on the camino soon. I was continuing to pray for a full recovery for her. I hope she is able to return to the camino and meet up with us, I look forward to seeing her again.Baca selengkapnya
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- Hari 29
- Sabtu, 28 Mei 2022 14.13
- ☀️ 36 °C
- Ketinggian: 761 mi
SpanyolTábara41°49’27” N 5°57’38” W
Granja de Moreruela - Tabara 25 km

Luis and Delphine were lovely guys but they snored all night, so I was awake at 0500, and I just got up and got ready and set off at 0520. I made really good time for the first couple of hours and enjoyed the walk. I stopped at the bridge over the Esla River to take some photographs, and then had to decide on which route to take, I could stay on the road or follow the camino path alongside the river. I decided on the camino path, it was a lot slower and a lot more uneven and dangerous but it was fun. I messaged Mirjam to give her a heads up about the path and then carried on. I stopped in Faramontanos for coffee and tostada and messaged Mirjam to let her know the café was open. Luis, Delphine and I passed each other a couple of times as we took different stops for refreshments, but for the most part we walked together, and in fact we arrived in Tabara together. I was so grateful for their company, they were supportive and encouraging and really helped me to do the walk.
The guys were going on to the municipal which was on the far side of town and required walking back the way we had come to rejoin the camino so I decided to get a single room in the private albergue 2 mins from the camino. It was only 19€ which I felt was worth it to have your own space and your own toilet/shower for one night. I messaged Mirjam to say I had arrived and let her know about the albergues and we agreed to meet for a drink once she arrived. When we met up she wanted to go visit the historic church which also housed a museum on the history of the church. In the Middle ages it had been a centre of education and learning and they had many books and parchments from the period on display.
As we went for our drinks she was greeted by two American ladies Meg and her cousin Kathleen, and we stood and chatted with them for a while. My experience with Americans on the camino had not been great but they were friends of Mirjam's and Anita's (Anita had mentioned them a few times) so that was good enough for me. They invited us to come to the albergue later and they would fix us dinner. I went along as instructed and had an absolutely fabulous time, Meg and Kathleen were instantly likeable, and great fun, Mirjam, Anne, Julia, and Guillermo were all there and the food and conversation were great, it was a fab evening and I think it was that night that really cemented what had been the beginning of a significant friendship for me, for that was the night that I think we really became a group. It was either Meg or Kathleen who said they were looking for a token man to be in their group and I was that token man. I could not have been happier to be typecast so. From that moment on we would journey together. (Guillermo was cycling the camino whilst working and so dropped in and out of the group at various points depending on those factors)Baca selengkapnya

Norman GrahamThe Church in Tabara housed books from the middle ages when it was a centre of religious education. I think it might be a prayer book
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- Hari 30
- Minggu, 29 Mei 2022
- ☀️ 30 °C
- Ketinggian: 738 mi
SpanyolSanta Marta de Tera41°59’41” N 5°58’16” W
Tabara - Santa Marta de Tera 23 km

My single room in the albergue was great, except it was at the top of the building and as hot as a furnace but I did manage to get to sleep eventually but woke at 0500. I just got up and left, there was no reason to stay.
After about 10 km there was a choice of route to Santa Marta, the route to the right was 0.5 km shorter but no coffee, so needless to say, I went straight ahead, I figured the extra half km was worth it, and reader, it was.
I arrived in Villanueva de las Peras hoping that I would indeed find a café open, I passed one that was closed and so wasn't hopeful, but as I walked further into the town, I saw Julia's water bottle on a table, then her mochila and I guessed she must be inside the café. So, I ended up having the most wonderful breakfast with Julia. I had asked for tostada and marmalada which the lady brought out to me, but she also brought a small pot of honey and said that it was their own honey, made by their own bees. I'm not hugely fond of honey but it was such a nice gesture I had to try some. I left the marmalada untouched. The honey was the best I have ever tasted, it was amazing. She then came out and gave Julia and I a small sweet cake, no charge. Julia told me that when she arrived the café was closed but an old lady told her to wait and then she went and woke up the owners (it was a Sunday) who very happily got up and served us our breakfast, they could not have been nicer. I made sure to message back to Mirjam and Anne to stop there for coffee and honey toast. The best part of the breakfast however, was my conversation with Julia., I will never forget it She was going on beyond Santa Marta and it would be a while before I would see her again, but she was never far from my thoughts over the next few days.
When I got to Santa Croya de Tera I heard someone whistle, but I couldn't see anyone then I heard a voice shouting 'Normando!' it was Luis and Delphine, they were in the park, when I went over to them Luis insisted that I take some cherries as all the shops were closed, the cherries were huge and tasty, I was still eating them 3 days later. The guys were concerned that all the shops in Santa Marta and possibly the cafés might be closed, I said it was no problem then patted my stomach and said muchas reservas, Luis thought that was hilarious.
We arrived in Santa Marta about 1130, and met the hospitalera who was just coming out of the church next door. Luis told her I was a Baptist Minister so she made a point of inviting me to the 12 o'clock service, which I then felt obliged to go to, the guys thought it was funny.
The albergue was very nice and a real bargain at 5€ very clean, and really good toilets and showers, one of the best so far. It only slept 13 and it was beginning to fill up - one of the first to arrive was the guy we all referred to as bearded Spaniard man, he was an epic snorer. I messaged Mirjam to tell her and Anne to pick up the pace as they might end up not getting a bed, which they did and they arrived in time managing to get the last two beds. Within the next hour three other peregrinos were turned away, their only option was to walk another 6km to a more expensive hostal. I know Mirjam and Anne would have been able and willing to walk to the next town, the truth is that I was not being thoughtful or altruistic, it was completely selfish, I just really wanted to see them again.
It turned out there was a restaurant open but it closed at 1800, so Luis and Delphine and I went and had a very nice dinner, then back to the albergue for a chat with the girls then bed. It rained just as we were getting into bed and I wondered if the path would eb muddy or flooded in the morning, but that was tomorrow's problem.Baca selengkapnya
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- Hari 31
- Senin, 30 Mei 2022
- ☁️ 11 °C
- Ketinggian: 805 mi
SpanyolRíonegro del Puente42°0’23” N 6°13’39” W
Santa Marta - Rionegro del Puente 27 km

As usual I set off early after breakfast of a banana, Luis and Delphine left at the same time, but they were going a much further distance today and were taking the road rather than the camino. We said our goodbyes, I probably will never see them again but I will never forget them.
It was very dark but the path was fairly flat and well signposted, As I walked through the woods I could hear shotgun blasts away to one side and getting closer, I was glad when the path veered away. At different points the camino does go through hunting ranges. Earlier this year a 24 yr old peregrina was shot and killed on the Camino Frances, I didn't want to be mistaken for game in the dark.
I stopped at Villar de Farfon at an albergue run by two missionaries from South Africa whose mission was to share the gospel with passing peregrinos. They were very nice and provided facilities for peregrinos to make tea or coffee and have a rest. After chatting with them for a while I pressed on to Rionegro.
The albergue was quite large but the downstairs dorm was very cramped as they had squeezed in too many sets of bunk beds. The room upstairs was much better, so I laid some of my stuff out on the beds and messaged Meg and the ladies to say I had 'reserved' beds for them. The toilets and showers were not great, there was no hot water, and the lights in the toilets didn't work, but other then that it was ok.
The next person to arrive was the bearded Spaniard and then the French couple whom I had met and who had a Google Translate conversation with Aurelio in El Real de la Jara. They would be with us over the next week, and we got to know them a bit better, they were lovely, both of them were in their 70's but they were fit as anything.
Meg and the others began to arrive and we went to the much recommended restaurant across the road, the food was several levels above anything we had eaten so far on the camino, the chef was very good and obviously cared about his craft. Anne and Mirjam arrived and joined us which was lovely as always, we were just missing Anita and Julia.
Apart from an excellent restaurant, Rionegro has nothing really to recommend it, and having eaten and bought provisions at the "shop" up the street, there was nothing to do but go to bed, which we did.Baca selengkapnya
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- Hari 32
- Selasa, 31 Mei 2022 21.01
- ⛅ 25 °C
- Ketinggian: 990 mi
SpanyolAsturianos42°3’14” N 6°29’11” W
Rionegro del Puente - Asturianos 29 km

I got up as late as I could, I didn't want to leave too late as I was hoping to get a coffee in Mombuey, just 10 km away, and most cafés don't open until 0800 or later. The bearded Spaniard and the French couple Jeannette and Arno and I all left within a few minutes of each other and split up as we all found our own pace. I was in the middle and I could see the light of the bearded Spaniard in the distance ahead, and Jeannette and Arno's behind me.
It was going to be a long day today, 29 km, but fortunately it was cloudy so we were out of direct sunlight for most of the day. I got to Mombuey in no time at all, I had only stopped to photograph the sunrise, and there was a bar open so I went in for breakfast, the bearded Spaniard was there, and I 'chatted ' with him for a few minutes, (short chat, he only spoke a few words of English and I only had basic Spanish). He had also been taking photographs with a Nikon DSLR, a bulky and expensive piece of kit to carry on the camino.
Refreshed, I set off again. I still had about 20 km to go, and whilst it was pleasant enough, after a while it was just became a bit of a slog, with quite a few inclines, I just had to keep putting one foot in front of the other and keep going because there was no other choice, there was nothing to go back to, and all the arrows pointed forward.
By the time I got to Asturianos, I was very weary, and my legs were a bit wobbly so instead of going to the albergue on the far side of town, I made a beeline for the café to refuel, Camino Ken's number 1 rule is - never walk past a café without stopping for a coffee. I was happy to keep that rule.
The albergue is attached to a sports centre and was not at all as it was described in the guidebook. The guide says there are only 6 beds but it looked like the whole place had been renovated and there were three rooms with a total of 22 beds. The toilet and shower units were brand new and fabulous with piping hot water. I did my washing then sat and ate the sandwich that Mirjam had made for me last night (from the heart), it was the best sandwich I have ever had.
The restaurant was in the sports centre part and the food was ok, and not expensive, after being fed and watered we all trekked down to the only shop before it closed. after that there was really nothing to do except sort out our washing, and repack our mochilas, and sit in the sun.
I am finding every day that I spend with Meg, Kathleen, Anne and Mirjam that a deepening bond of friendship is developing between us, and I guess that to onlookers that might seem strange. We are, after all, an odd bunch, and interestingly although Julia and Anita are not with us at the moment, they are such a part of our conversation and our thoughts that it feels like they are with us in spirit. I think this is unusual, even for the camino which has an uncanny ability to bring people together, this feels like family.Baca selengkapnya
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- Hari 33
- Rabu, 01 Juni 2022
- 🌧 26 °C
- Ketinggian: 1.004 mi
SpanyolRequejo42°1’50” N 6°44’45” W
Asturianos - Requejo de Sanabria 30 km

I got up wishing I had been in the other room with Meg, Kathleen, Anne and Mirjam. I was in a room with 6 other people, 5 of who were serious snorers, earplugs were no help.
The walk to Requejo was quite tedious, the weather was very changeable, sunshine and drizzle and a dampness in the air, and it has generally been cooler and damper the further north we have come. The camino path today was very varied, it went through a lot of damp, soggy, wooded farmland, and country roads and a fair bit on the tarmac as well. Part of the path just outside Asturianos was flooded and muddy but not enough to require a detour, there were a couple of steepish hills to go up as well and a quite steep one downhill on the way out of Asturianos.
Puebla de Sanabria looked like a nice historic town but I didn't have time to be a tourist, I had hoped to get a coffee but I couldn't find a café or bar that was open despite the fact that it was after 0900. I did find a supermarket that was open so I went in and treated myself to some sugary snacks, and then carried on. I made good time for the first 20 km, but I found the last 9 km more difficult, and a bit slower. Just outside Requejo I noted that the GPS trace of the camino path seemed to be quite a bit longer than going directly on the road, so I chose the road. Although I don't like walking on the tarmac it is quicker, and I could tell from the map that the camino route involved some hill climbing. It was a good choice, for when I messaged back to Meg and the others it seemed they were finding it hard going.
I eventually arrived in the town and looked for a café which I found easy enough and I got a coffee from a morose girl behind the counter, the coffee was a lot better than her demeanour. The guidebook described the municipal albergue as 'basic' which put us all off, so we planned go to a private albergue Casa Cerviño, so I headed there. I just arrived and stepped in the door when the heavens opened in a torrential and long lasting downpour of rain. As Musashi says, timing is everything.
I was the first to arrive, so I messaged the others to tell them that the albergue was really good. It was spacious, very clean, had good toilets and showers, and a washing machine and tumble dryer. The bar/restaurant was right next door as well (the food was very good). I hadn't been there long when I had the most wonderful surprise, for the next person to arrive in the albergue was Anita! Having gone all the way to Santiago de Compostela for some physio she was back on the camino. She is an inspiring woman, and as tough and resilient as her homeland.
All the others eventually arrived wet and tired, and glad for a shower and change of clothes.
When the rain went off Mirjam, Anne and I went out to look for provisions for the next day. Requejo de Sanabria is one of the least resourced towns we have stayed in thus far, we were not able to get any provisions other than a few Magdalena cakes from the bar with the morose barmaid. However, the evening was full of chat and the warmth of friendship shared, even with the rain, these are the days that you want to last forever.Baca selengkapnya
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- Hari 34
- Kamis, 02 Juni 2022
- ☁️ 22 °C
- Ketinggian: 1.029 mi
SpanyolLubián42°2’7” N 6°54’5” W
Requejo de Sanabria - Lubián 19 km

I had a great sleep, one of the best on the camino so far, the albergue was warm and comfortable, it was definitely one of the best I had stayed in, and the hospitalera was so nice and friendly. I always pack my bag the night before and try to be as quiet as possible in the morning but as I was stripping my bed (as instructed by the hospitalera) I was worried that I had woken up Mirjam in the bunk next to me but she assured me later that I hadn't.
I was leaving early because there was a lot of uncertainty about the path ahead. The guidebooks all warned about diversions on this section due to the AVE high speed rail construction. The guidebook advised obeying diversion signs and I encountered several but clear directions were given at each point, and in the distance across the valley I could see the tunnels for the trainline exiting the mountain. However, as I left the sleeping beauties in the albergue, I had no idea what lay ahead for us so I wanted to go ahead of them so that I could report back about any diversions or roadblocks.
The first part of the walk was all on the road and all uphill. The ascent on this section is 535 metres but the road smooths some of that out, trading steepness for length so the first 6 km was all uphill, but not too steep. I wore the trainers I bought in Salamanca until I got to that point and then changed into my boots. Off-road the path continued on uphill for at least another 2.2 km reaching the pass at A Canda, at 1365m it is the highest point on the Camino Sanabrés and the Via de la Plata.
Just another 1.5 km away was the town of Padornelo, and the camino path went right past a café, so of course I stopped for a coffee. The café was well stocked with provisions of jamón and cheese and wine, so, all the essentials. Just a little bit along the road was a petrol station with a shop so I stopped there and restocked with water. As I waited to cross at a junction the driver of a huge truck blocked all the traffic so I could cross safely, I waved my thanks.
As I was walking through the countryside I found a post with a yellow arrow on the ground, it looked like someone had torn it down. I dragged it along the path a bit then propped it up so that the arrow was pointing in the right direction. Just five minutes later I discovered that the path was partially blocked, someone, probably the landowner had put wire and rope across it. I double checked the map to make sure I was on the right path, and then climbed over the wire and kept going.
Once again I was the first to arrive at the albergue, the cleaning lady was there and she showed me around, she was lovely and we had a good chat. Great toilets and showers, so after showering, changing and getting my washing hung out, I went in search of supplies. when I returned I found that more pilgrims had arrived, a girl from Latvia striking blond hair and lots of tattoos, and...all the snorers. After thinking about it for a few minutes I went up to the private albergue where Meg and Kathleen were staying and booked a room, then went back and got all my stuff except my washing, I could get that later.
I met Meg and Kathleen for lunch, it was my treat for Meg because it was her birthday today, she was...well a gentleman never tells. Anne and Mirjam had picked wild flowers for her, and surrounded them with her favourite snack bar, they are such lovely thoughtful people. We had all agreed to meet later to toast Meg's birthday with a glass of wine, we even had some ice cream, and it was lovely to have Jeanette and Arno there as well.
As we drew nearer to Santiago it became clear that we might not have much time left together as a group as we all had to be in Santiago on different days in order to travel to our respective homes or other holiday destinations. I was determined to savour each moment with each one of these lovely humans who were no longer strangers but who were becoming the dearest of friends.Baca selengkapnya
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- Hari 35
- Jumat, 03 Juni 2022
- ⛅ 14 °C
- Ketinggian: 974 mi
SpanyolA Gudiña42°3’38” N 7°8’27” W
Lubián - A Gudiña 27 km

Despite all the difficulties I had been through on the camino, today was unquestionably the worst day of walking so far. I left at 0530, the weather forecast was not good and there was, quite literally, a mountain to cross into Galicia. I had not gone far when it started to rain, the first real heavy rain I had walked in so far, and I was thankful that I had brought my Rohan waterproof jacket rather than a poncho, it performed beyond all expectations. I was not worried about my mochila getting wet as it had a perfectly good rain cover.
The camino turned off what had been a decent path into woodland, and continued steadily uphill, it was often flooded and muddy and always slippery. It began by following a riverbed, but the water was deep and flowing fast, in fact it was already flowing over the large granite blocks laid there to assist peregrinos and keep them dry. At one point I was walking in the river, my boots were waterproof but they could only deal with so much and I ended up walking the next 20+ km with wet feet.
All of this was being done in darkness, my path only illuminated by the circle of light from my head torch, all the while in driving rain. The longer I walked that section of the path, the more slippery and dangerous it became, and with hindsight I realised that it had not been a good idea to come on my own. The only plus was that I was able to message back details of the conditions to my friends. I was worried for the older walkers like Jeanette and Arno, and an older Spanish couple, I thought they might be safer taking the road. At one point I had to walk through some bushes that had overgrown the path, and they were so wet it was like walking through a car wash. The uphill climb was difficult and in the darkness, it felt never ending. I was tired, cold, sore and soaking wet and miserable. I felt like a Hobbit lost in Fangorn wood.
Fortunately the higher up the mountain I got the easier and less claustrophobic it became, and I was greatly relieved to reach the summit and cross over into Galicia, of course what goes up must come down and so there was a reasonably steep descent until the path levelled out. I found myself wishing I had some of Mirjam and Anne's energy. After an hour I came across a café and stopped for a hot coffee, it had just opened and I think the lady took pity on my drenched and bedraggled state because she also brought me a huge slice of tortilla as well. Once again, I had found kindness, unlooked for, on the Way.
From that point, with the exception of just a few km it was steadily and at times steeply uphill for several hours. Something had happened on the walk up the mountain, and I was feeling a lot of pain in my right hip and it was getting worse. Finally, I could see A Gudiña just a few km away down the valley, but every step of that last 2 km was agony.
I arrived at the albergue just a few minutes before the hospitalera and I was more than happy to just sit on the wall outside until she was ready, to be honest I thought if I didn't sit down I would fall down. The albergue was huge but nice with terrific toilets and showers (I know I sound like I'm obsessed...but these things matter on the camino). I picked my bed and lay down for a rest after popping some pain killers.
When the ladies arrived they were given a room together and they asked me to join them which I was very glad to do, glad too it would be Anne sleeping on top of me tonight, she doesn't move about much. The albergue had a washing machine so we put all our washing together and got that done and put my boots out to dry.
After a chat about the long walk the next day, we decided that given the distance, the weather forecast and the fact that some of us were not in the best of shape, with sore feet, bad knees and my injured hip, (and my boots were still wet), the oldies and I would go to Laza by taxi whilst Mirjam and Anne, young and fit as they were, would walk the 35 km, but we would take some of their gear with us in the taxi. So, for me it would be a rest day that would hopefully give my hip a chance to recover. With that decided, we all went to bed.Baca selengkapnya
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- Hari 36
- Sabtu, 04 Juni 2022
- ☀️ 27 °C
- Ketinggian: 680 mi
SpanyolVillar de Barrio42°9’40” N 7°36’34” W
A Gudiña - Laza 35 km

Having made the decision to go to Laza by taxi, Meg, Kathleen, Anita and I all had a lie in. Once we were all ready to go we set off in search of a café for breakfast, which we found eventually. Breakfast was good and the café owner telephoned a taxi for us, and it arrived very soon after that. The taxi driver was chatty and really funny, and we were there within 45 minutes. The albergue was inevitably closed, and so we went to a café and had second breakfast like real Hobbits.
The albergue was modern, clean with a good kitchen. We were allocated a room together and picked our bunks and sorted our stuff out. Anne arrived about 1500 but by 1700 Mirjam had still not arrived so I set off to look for her and much to my relief I met her coming up the road. I took her mochila and walked her back to the albergue.
There was nothing to do but the usual peregrino stuff, I was fortunate enough to spend a long time that evening in conversation with Mirjam, and I will always treasure that time with her. I am sure that people back home will ask me about my camino experience and what it was like walking every day, and what the landscape was like, and the food etc. As I have reflected on that I have come to understand that above all it is the moments with other people, where bonds of love and friendship were established and deepened that have had the deepest impact and settle longest in the heart.
There's not much else to say about that day so let me give you a typical day in my life as a peregrino
1. Get up, normally between 0500 and 0530, and get dressed, (some peregrinos sleep in the next day's clothes or at least next day's underwear)
2. Breakfast of fruit or whatever I managed to buy the day before or if I'm really lucky something in a café.
3. Walk anything from 15-32 km over varied terrain and always in the heat if not always in direct sunlight. Temperatures ranged from about 5° to 39° and sometimes it was still 25°-30° after midnight
4. Arrive at the albergue and get booked in, pick a bunk and get clean clothes out of my bag
5. Shower and change into the clothes for the next day's walk
wash my dirty clothes, almost always in a sink of cold water with a bar of soap and if possible, get them hung outside in the sun
6. Look for a shop to buy supplies for the next day, water fruit etc.
7. Find somewhere to eat, café/bar/restaurants normally offered hot meals between 1330 and 1500 and then again at 2000 - 2100. Depending on the kitchen facilities some folk might cook their own dinner, I did a few times.
8. Spend some quality time with Meg, Kathleen, Anita, Anne, Julia and Mirjam
9. Read over the route for the next day and check the map, pack my mochila
10. Journal about the day, read, listen to music then sleep.
11. Get up the next day and do it all again.
Of course, there's a lot that happened in-between those lines, but that's for me to know.Baca selengkapnya
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- Hari 37
- Minggu, 05 Juni 2022
- ☀️ 29 °C
- Ketinggian: 678 mi
SpanyolVillar de Barrio42°9’39” N 7°36’35” W
Laza - Villar de Barrio 20 km

I woke early but just lay in bed for a while listening to Kathleen's gentle snoring, weirdly I never found her snoring annoying, in fact I always thought that it was kind of relaxing and I was genuinely happy that she was getting a deep sleep. I guess a key issue in dealing with snoring is how you feel about the person, and I felt nothing but good things towards Kathleen, she's a treasure.
I was only walking 20km today so I was in no hurry, and the albergue in Villar de Barrio didn't open until 1300. Today's walk was going to be a challenge, as there was a mountain with a very steep ascent in between Laza and Villar, and I still had some anxieties about ascents, which in this case totaled 690m. However, today I was to experience another camino miracle.
I had walked about 3km when I saw another peregrino in the distance, and I happened to notice something falling off their mochila. I quickened my pace and got to the spot and there on the ground was a woolly hat, so I quickened my pace again until I was in shouting distance of its owner. He stopped and waited until I got to him and was overjoyed to have his hat returned, as he was quite bald. So, we walked together and got to know each other a bit. His name was Ougo he was a retired surgeon from Bologna, he was 73. I noticed a dressing on his knee and asked if he was ok, he said yes but he was very upset as his knee was no longer stable enough to allow him to continue mountaineering, his great passion. He had been mountaineering and walking the alps since he was a boy, but all he could do now was walk caminos. He was coming back in July to walk the Norte with his wife. I felt like a total wimp by comparison, moaning about every hill.
After an hour we arrived at the base of the mountain and began our ascent of its steep slope. After about 30 minutes, Ougo, whose English was ok (better than my Italian) stopped me and said, "I have something I would like to say. In my opinion your mochila is too low." So, I had to loosen all the straps whilst he readjusted them and then told me to tighten the straps and walk. I could not believe the difference, it was as if he had taken my mochila off me, and the nagging pain in my hip completely disappeared. (He thought my mochila was actually too large for me) He wasn't finished, he told me my walking pole was too high and he adjusted that, and again I felt a difference right away. Finally he said "If I can say one more thing, your pace is all wrong. if you are going to walk up a mountain, you must walk, not too fast, not too slow but you must walk at the same pace from start to finish. If you keep varying your pace you will exhaust yourself." So he got me to copy his pace and style of walking and with all the other adjustments he made, I was at the top of the mountain in no time at all, and feeling more energised than tired.
Why is that a camino miracle? I didn't even realise I needed help, but I did need it, and through a strange set of circumstances I met Ougo, who of all the people I could have met that day, had the knowledge and experience to see what I could not and who knew exactly what to do to fix the problem. If I had not left late, if Ougo's hat hasn't fallen off his mochila...
The help I got from Ougo that day transformed my camino and I will always be thankful for him and I will never forget him. When we got to Alberguería at the top of the mountain we went to the famous café where pilgrims are invited to write their name on a shell, (there are over 50,000 in the café and albergue), and so we signed a shell together and I bought him a coffee, and we sat for a while listening to Dire Straits (the café owner plays them all day, he's a superfan).
The steep decline down the other side of the mountain was actually more difficult than the ascent, but we stopped for a moment near the top and looked out over the vista before us and Ougo said "Our Lord's creation is very beautiful." I couldn't argue with that. As we got to the bottom, Ougo and I said our goodbyes, as he was going to have a longer rest before going on to the town beyond Vilar, and I never saw him again.Baca selengkapnya
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- Hari 38
- Senin, 06 Juni 2022
- ☀️ 27 °C
- Ketinggian: 160 mi
SpanyolPraza do Trigo42°20’15” N 7°51’49” W
Villar de Barrio - Ourense 37 km

After a chat with the ladies today we decided that we would like to spend some time in Oursense, the ladies wanted to try the famous sulphur baths and I wanted to do some sightseeing, and some shopping for essential supplies. The only way that we would have the time to do that was to get there today, so it was agreed that Meg, Kathleen, Anita and I would walk part of the way then hop in a taxi to shorten the time. Mirjam and Anne were going to walk the full 37km (young, fit and fearless).
Kathleen found and booked an Airbnb in Ourense for two nights. So we slept late and set off at 0830. The path was mostly very flat and the landscape unremarkable but we made good time to Xunqueira de Ambia. Anne had sent us a photo of Mirjam enjoying a late breakfast in a café there so we went looking for it. (Yes they had left before us!) Meg had a terrible cup of tea but the coffee was good and the barman called for a taxi to take us into Ourense.
We had a bit of bother finding the Airbnb, it turned out that the building numbers were old and no longer in use but we got there eventually. The apartment was great, two bedrooms, a great bathroom and well fitted kitchen/living area. It had everything we needed, including a coffee machine! It was also right around the corner from the cathedral where we would need to get our credentials stamped and well located for all kinds of shopping.
As we were walking near the apartment, much to our surprise and great delight we met Julia, and so we all went out for lunch together with Julia leading the way, and in another happy 'coincidence' Guillermo joined us as well, it felt a little like we were getting the band back together! The food was good and the conversation flowed the way it does around meal tables.
Later that night, Mirjam arrived, she had gotten into Ourense late and we suggested that she stay in the Airbnb with us. When I set off that morning from Villar de Barrio, I was sad because I would not see her again until this time next week, so I was delighted to see her now, even for just a short time. She had just walked a hard 37 km and had 24 km to do tomorrow with a very long very steep incline, so I was happy to be able to give up my bed for her. I slept on the surprisingly comfortable couch. Although we were in the very centre of the city, all was quiet, and we slept in peace.Baca selengkapnya

Norman Grahamit is a storehouse for maize, it is designed so that rats can't climb up to it and eat the maize, they were very common in most villages in that part of Spain
- Tampilkan perjalanan
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- Hari 39
- Selasa, 07 Juni 2022
- ⛅ 16 °C
- Ketinggian: 164 mi
SpanyolPraza do Trigo42°20’15” N 7°51’48” W
Ourense 15 km

After a good sleep I woke just before Mirjam got up and prepared to leave, I was sad to be saying goodbye to her today knowing that I would not see her until she returned to Santiago from Finisterre on the 12th. We have planned an evening meal with everyone in our little group on Santiago for the 13th of June, it will be great to have everyone together.
The ladies were going to the sulphur baths and I did some sightseeing, I went out to the cathedral to get my credential stamped and whilst I was there I did the tour. It was interesting but to be honest not much different from every other cathedral I had ever visited. After my experience in Salamanca I couldn't help but see it as another cultural relic of Christendom dependant upon the secular world for survival. I went to see the cloisters of St Francis as much for the walk as anything else, but there was not much to see, you could walk around it and take a few photos but there wasn't much to it. However, they also had a museum there telling some of the history of the city, and that was quite interesting.
Mirjam sent back word that there were very many more peregrinos on the camino, but that was expected. In order to get a Compostela you only have to walk the last 100km and Ourense is 110 km from Santiago and so many people start their camino here. She also said that she had gone the right hand route, which is very slightly less steep, and that was the route we had also decided to go in the morning. Meg had organised for two of our bags to be transported to our next albergue, and as mine was the biggest bag, I shared it with Anita. I went out to Decathlon and bought a 20L daypack for only 10€ and put all the stuff I needed for the day in it. The walk that day was so much easier for all of us that we decided to have our bags transported each day until we got to Santiago.
I decided not to go out for dinner with the girls, I had had some pizza for lunch and wasn't really hungry, and I wanted to do some admin type stuff anyway and spend time reflecting on my camino so far and how I thought it had changed me. As Socrates is reported to have said at his trial, "the unexamined life is not worth living."
I really enjoyed our time in Ourense. It was great to have some time to do tourist type things, and to get some much needed supplies, best of all it was great to spend quality time with Meg, Kathleen and Anita, to see Julia and Guillermo and Mirjam, and to my great joy, by a random chance, I met Anne in the street, we didn't have long to chat but it was such a delight. She had been busy with university stuff and so was booked into a place with good wifi, so it was a wonderful and unexpected meeting. Much as it is a beautiful and interesting city, for me, those moments were the best thing about Oursense.Baca selengkapnya
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- Hari 40
- Rabu, 08 Juni 2022
- ⛅ 25 °C
- Ketinggian: 509 mi
SpanyolCea42°28’24” N 7°59’10” W
Ourense - Cea 24 km

We were all up early because the two bags that were being transported to the albergue in Cea had to be delivered to a bar by 0730 and it was 20 minutes walk away. While we were there we had some breakfast then doubled back a little to join the right-hand route out of Ourense. The walk was very good but the first hour or so was slower going due to the unending steepness of the path, the city sits at the bottom of a valley that we had to climb out of. Thanks to Ougo I found the walking uphill ok but I was finding that my breathing was laboured and my heart rate was too high. Fortunately Anita, (medical scientist), talked me through how to breathe on the uphill and that made a huge difference - my heart rate dropped by 20 points for the rest of the hill. Eventually the path began to level out and we reached the 100 km marker.
The Galicians really don't want you to get lost on the camino and since arriving in Galicia we had noted the abundance of unmissable granite markers that also gave the distance from Santiago. Disputes about the distance aside, these way markers gave the distance to three decimal points, I didn't know if it was someone being pedantic or if the Galicians subtle way of saying they did it better than all the other autonomous regions, probably the latter.
Walking with Meg, Kathleen and Anita was a joy, there was plenty of mutual encouragement and support, some banter (as we say in Scotland) and a lot of laughter. It made the time pass very quickly and soon enough we were in Cea.
We arrived at the albergue in Cea to find it open but with no one there. It was dark and dingy and would turn out to be one of the worst albergues we stayed in, it was not very clean and it was a little bit smelly, but we were given fresh disposable sheets and pillowcases. The toilets and showers were acceptable rather than good, but at night some of the lights would not go off. I don't think any of us got a great sleep.
Anyway, Meg and I were sitting in the dark dingy reception area waiting for the hospitalero when Kathleen arrived, and suddenly it was like the sun had come out, she transformed the space just by walking into it. I realised right then that I had not spent a single moment on the camino with her that had not been a joy. She was and is a ray of sunshine, and when we went out for a walk I told her so.
When the hospitalero arrived he was very excited to discover that I was from Scotland and he went into another office and came back with some photographs that looked about 30+ years old, he was still recognisable in them at events in Edinburgh and the Wallace Monument in Stirling, and at a highland games somewhere, meeting Prince Charles. I told him that the Wallace Monument was not far from where I lived, in fact you can just about see it from my house.
Cea was another unremarkable town with little to recommend it, however we did have a fabulous dinner at a nearby restaurant/bar/grill. As we were eating who should turn up on his bike but Guillermo, it was great to see him again, as he cycled off, we all agreed that we would try and find a needle and some black thread for him....you had to be there.
The next section of the camino was another one where there were problems regarding accommodation. Since the covid pandemic many albergues had closed and some of them had not yet reopened, and some were closed permanently. That was the case in the next section. The albergue in Castro Dozón was closed leaving a 35 km trek to A Laxe. Having considered all our options, we agreed that we would get a bus to Castro Dozón (14.6 km) and then walk from there to A Laxe. A quick online search revealed that there was a bus at 0630 and the lady in the shop said the bus stop was next to a bar, but we had been given conflicting times for the bus. So, in the evening I went out for a walk to find it and also how long it would take to get there, and the lovely barmaid pointed out the bus stop to me and confirmed that it would be there at 0630. It was 10 minutes walk. Over my camino I had taken a couple of taxis and buses and whilst this was not ideal, I think in each case it was forced on us by external circumstances. Some of the issues were personal matters of health and injuries but some were the fallout from covid and would require some long-term solutions by the regional camino associations. Not everyone walking the camino can walk 35 -45 Km in a day, especially when the temperatures are reaching the highest on record. Scientists have been warning us about a climate crisis for decades. It's here.
With that organised, there was nothing to do but get to bed and try and sleep...but you already know how that went.
I got word that Mirjam had arrived safely in A Laxe, our next stop. I could not help but think about her and Anne and Julia, like little birds having flown the nest, on their own each one following their own path. Much as we all missed them terribly, everything was as it should be, for everyone must walk their own camino, and as Sting famously sang, "if you love somebody, set them free."Baca selengkapnya
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- Hari 41
- Kamis, 09 Juni 2022
- ☀️ 26 °C
- Ketinggian: 449 mi
SpanyolSantiso42°40’35” N 8°9’50” W
Cea - A Laxe 35 km

We were up early and left our bags packed and tagged for collection and set off for the bus stop (next to the bar-estanco Paxariño) with our day packs. When we arrived there was a man waiting for the bus, he spoke great English, he had lived in the USA for a while, and he confirmed that the bus would be there at 0630, which it was. It seemed like just a few minutes later we were in Castro Dozón, unfortunately we were there too early for any cafés to be open, but whilst we were pondering this calamitous event, the Repsol station opened and we were able to buy a few snacks before setting off.
Once again the path was good, a mixture of tarmac and off road and we were enjoying one another's company. We did get split up a little as we all walked at different paces, so those of us ahead stopped for a rest at a nice seating area where there was a fountain for peregrinos. One of the ladies went behind a wall for a pee and just at that exact moment around 40 elderly hikers on a guided walk came slowly trooping past! Fortunately, none of them looked over the wall.
It didn't take us long to get to A Laxe, which we couldn't pronounce, and Kathleen came up with the idea of calling it Alexa, and that worked. We had to wait 30 minutes before it opened, but we got all of our washing done in the machine and got it hung out. Our bags had been delivered to Ma. Jose bar further along the road so we went to collect them and stayed for drinks. We came back later for dinner and it was excellent, the lady owner was lovely.
We were fortunate enough to get a dorm to ourselves and it was clean and tidy. I know you want to know about the toilets and showers - they were ok, not great but not terrible either. In the afternoon during siesta Kathleen and I walked along the road to the petrol station/café/shop and bought a few things and sat and had ice cream. It was one of my most enjoyable moments on the camino, she is a very special lady and spending some quality time with her on her own was a real blessing.
It was hard to believe that we only had two full days of walking left before we reached Santiago. As I looked around the dorm later that evening, I think we were all feeling the same, excited that we were almost there and yet at the same time not wanting it to end.Baca selengkapnya
- Tampilkan perjalanan
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- Bagikan
- Hari 42
- Jumat, 10 Juni 2022
- ⛅ 23 °C
- Ketinggian: 266 mi
SpanyolLoimil42°45’14” N 8°20’13” W
A Laxe - Leiras 22 km

We left quite early 0645 in order to leave our bags at the bar Ma. Jose, and stayed for an excellent breakfast, and then set off together.
For the first time on my camino, I walked in my shorts, the weather could not have been better, it was cloudy with sunny spells and a nice breeze and the path was a mixture of tarmac and country paths. On the final stretch of the camino you find yourself walking through a lot of small towns and so there is less need to carry a lot of water etc. and there are more opportunities for refreshments. We stopped at least twice for coffee, and in one café I saw an amazing looking cheesecake, and it made me think of Mirjam who loves cheesecake, but they didn't sell it in slices , just the whole cheesecake, which was far too big even for the four of us!
We found another café that was open and sat for about 30 minutes chatting. Kathleen saw a lovely yellow outfit that she thought might be good for us to all wear for when we arrived in Santiago. Apparently that is a thing, and you will see groups arriving all day wearing the same t-shirt or hat or carrying the same flag etc. Sadly, I don't think it came in my size.
Meg and I arrived at the albergue about 1300, with Kathleen and Anita arriving shortly thereafter having walked right past the 10-foot high sign saying 'Casa Leiras Albergue'.
The albergue was run by an delightful and fascinating couple, Andrea and his wife Cristina, he was Italian and she was Spanish, they were both really engaging and interesting to talk to, both of them were wonderful storytellers and conversationalists. We chatted for a while about how they came to own, renovate and run the albergue and to be honest, their ethos of life and how to live it was very appealing. what I loved was that they were living the life they loved, the life they had chosen for themselves. If you like chess then this is the albergue for you as Andrea was a mad keen chess player.
The albergue was absolutely the best we had stayed in so far. It was spotlessly clean, the beds were well spaced apart and the toilets and showers were outstanding. Rather than have to sit around serving us we were told to help ourselves from the bar and write up our own tab. We all agreed to have dinner there, in part because there was nowhere else to go, but also because we guessed, correctly, that the food would be fabulous, which it was. I was so glad we had decided to stay there, it's a very small place with no facilities other than the albergue, but it was one of the most pleasant days I had on the camino.
Mirjam arrived in Santiago today and sent us some photographs of the cathedral, apparently, when she went to get her Compostela, the staff were very excited because she had walked from Sevilla. I was so happy for her, our hearts were bursting with pride and joy, I was just sorry I had not been there to share it with her. We also got word from Anne that she was slowing down a bit because she was finding the humid weather a bit difficult, so she would now arrive in Santiago on Monday. We decided that we would all go the the cathedral square to meet her, when she arrived.
So, after a very wonderful day, we went to bed content and at peace.Baca selengkapnya
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- Bagikan
- Hari 43
- Sabtu, 11 Juni 2022
- 🌧 14 °C
- Ketinggian: 189 mi
SpanyolQuian42°49’7” N 8°28’56” W
Leiras - A Susanna 20 km

Our penultimate day on the camino! With our bags a lot lighter the walk was leisurely and pleasant with good weather for walking. We all had a good sleep and a good breakfast at the albergue, so we left much later than was usual for us. Quite a bit of this section was on tarmac and so the occasional off-road bits were a relief, we only had a few ascents but they did not present any difficulties, it was the descents which were longer and steeper. I was worried how Anita was coping with her bad knee but she is tough and resilient and she coped well.
We stopped for coffee at Ponte Ulla and got a few things from the supermarket as there were no shops in the towns ahead of us. It was only 20 km but felt a little longer due to the rolling hills, but we arrived at the Albergue Reina Lupa about 1345 and were welcomed by the very lovely owner. The albergue was outstanding, it was brand new, spotlessly clean, and the beds were well spaced out and each one had a nightlight and USB sockets in the wall. Each bed had a generously sized locker next to it. The best thing of all was that we did not have paper sheets, we had crisp white linen sheets freshly washed and pressed, and a large incredibly soft fleece blanket. We could have cried. It was albergue heaven, and yes the toilets and showers were great, and there was also a washing machine. The crisp white linen sheets meant that it just beat the albergue in Leiras as the best albergue between Sevilla and Santiago.
When we came in there were two older ladies chatting in the reception area - Australians, it turned out that one of them lived on the same street as Anita, small world.
We went along the road to a restaurant recommended by our hospitalera and it was really busy with locals (a good sign) and we had a fabulous dinner, before wandering back to the albergue to pack our bags for the last time on the camino. We had decided to get our bags transported to Santiago the next day. Most of us were staying at The Last Stamp and we couldn't check in until 1400, so it would save us carrying our bags around the city all day.
We got some bad news from Anne, it wasn't the humidity that was bothering her, it turned out that she had covid, so she would not be arriving in the city on Monday after all. On a more positive note, Mirjam messaged to say how much she was enjoying being in Finisterre and how glad she was to have gone. I was really happy for her and looked forward to seeing her on Sunday night and hearing all about it.
We all went to bed and despite the excitement about arriving in Santiago tomorrow, we fell asleep in minutes.Baca selengkapnya
- Tampilkan perjalanan
- Tambahkan ke daftar bucketHapus dari daftar bucket
- Bagikan
- Hari 44
- Minggu, 12 Juni 2022 18.27
- ⛅ 22 °C
- Ketinggian: 245 mi
SpanyolPraza do Obradoiro42°52’50” N 8°32’44” W
A Susanna - Santiago de Compostela 9 km

We got up early, no surprise there, but we all had a great sleep, and set off making very good time. I don't remember much about the walk, it all seemed very quick , one minute we were on the outskirts of A Susanna and the next we were in Santiago.
Although we never saw the sunrise over the city as we had hoped, it turned out to be a good time to arrive because the cathedral square was virtually empty. Just as we arrived a large group of cyclists came swooping in and parked all their bikes in front of the cathedral steps and started taking pictures of them. After 5 minutes of this Kathleen shouted something like "I'm sure your bikes are all very lovely, now can you move them out the way!" Much to my amazement, they did, and we got our photograph in front of the cathedral steps, like proper pilgrims.
We then headed off the the Pilgrim Office to get our Compostelas, we were fortunate that a Viking friend of Anita's was there to help us through the process. As I went to get mine I got the same reaction that Mirjam had, the lady was very excited that I had walked all the way from Sevilla. Job done we went to the nearest restaurant for a very much needed and very decent breakfast.
We then decided to explore the city, which is like every other old European city, it is a maze of streets that are confusing to navigate and problematic for Google Maps and a café every 20 metres. Anita had made her own arrangements for accommodation so Meg, Kathleen and I checked into the Last Stamp, and I was happy to note we were in the same dorm unit. We went out in search of dinner and found what is surely one of the bests restaurants in Spain, the Langrina, the food was amazing. We went back a few nights later and just had whatever the lovely (and incredibly beautiful) waitress suggested. Everything was amazing.
Whilst the others enjoyed siesta, I went out and did some gift shopping for my family, small things - I had a 10 kilo limit on my baggage for the flight home. Just before 1800 I set off to the bus station to meet Mirjam off the bus. I was very conscious that when she first arrived in the city she was on her own, and I thought it would be good for a friendly face to be there to welcome her this time. I am glad I did. I took her backpack and we walked into the city and I helped her find her albergue. It took us a while and then I remembered that in Ourense the building numbers were no longer in use and it turned out to be the same here.
Satisfied that she was settled in her albergue I went back to the Last Stamp and got into my bunk for the night. It had been a long day, but a very emotional, and very satisfying one.Baca selengkapnya
- Tampilkan perjalanan
- Tambahkan ke daftar bucketHapus dari daftar bucket
- Bagikan
- Hari 45
- Senin, 13 Juni 2022
- ⛅ 22 °C
- Ketinggian: 255 mi
SpanyolPraza do Obradoiro42°52’51” N 8°32’43” W
Santiago day 2

I was up early because two guys who were also sleeping in the same unit as me came in at 0200 drunk, and noisy, putting on lights and generally making a nuisance of themselves, then they snored loudly the rest of the night. Later I went and asked the staff if they were staying another night, because if they were I would have had to have had words with them. Fortunately, they were checking out.
Kathleen was also up early, so we went out for a walk together to see if we could find a café, eventually we found a bakery open and they did a takeaway coffee so we had breakfast as we walked and talked. I loved every minute that I spent with Kathleen, she is just a joy to be with. The coffee and cakes from the baker were really good, and the lovely baker spoke great English, and so I went back several times over the next few days.
Apart from some more shopping the only thing on the agenda for today was the 12 noon pilgrim service at the cathedral. Meg assured us that we would have to go at 11 in order to get a seat. Mirjam, Kathleen, Julia and I all wanted to go. Meg was right, by the time we got there about 10 minutes past 11, it was already quite full, and just before the service started Julia and I both got up to give our seats to an older couple, I sat on the base of a stone pillar. I was able to follow some of the service but the language difference was a bit of a barrier, but I enjoyed it. We never got to see them swing the giant incense burner but apparently they don't do that very often.
One of the reasons the camino was so busy is that Pope Francis had designated it to be a Holy Year for Roman Catholics. Normally the Holy Year is when the Feast of St James falls on a Sunday, but last year it was cancelled due to covid. One of the features of a Holy Year is the Holy Door into the Cathedral in Santiago de Compostela. It is bricked up in-between Holy years and then broken open on the Holy Year and any pilgrim who enters the cathedral through this door is said to have all their sins forgiven. Many people, including from our group walked through it. Whatever our different beliefs, I think that deep down we all want to know that we are forgiven, and some of us have much to be forgiven for. The hardest part, of course, is forgiving ourselves.
A guided tour of the city plazas had been booked for 1800 starting at the Cathedral Square, and with Mirjam's encouragement I agreed to go along (only the most hard-hearted person could say no to Mirjam). The tour was excellent and we all really enjoyed it and learned a lot about the history and architecture, and myths of the city. The only minus was that I felt totally underdressed, Meg, Kathleen, Anita and Julia were all wearing lovely dresses and Mirjam looked fabulous in her new blouse, in fact everyone had smartened up a bit except me and Guillermo - my wardrobe consisted of 3 t-shirts and 2 pairs of hiking trousers, and Guillermo probably had the same limited wardrobe, the ladies had planned ahead. Still, they didn't appear to be too embarrassed about walking around with us.
The tour took us down to a park where we saw some public art depicting the two Maria's. We had seen them all over the city painted on walls and on t-shirts etc. so it was great to learn their story. The two Maria's were from a family that supported the monarchy during the Spanish civil war, which of course Franco and his fascists won. Many of the men in their family were tortured and killed, it was a very dark time for many people in Spain. So, the two Maria's started wearing bright gaudy clothes as they went about the town, it was a kind of rebellion against the fear and gloom of the times, a celebration of life and a refusal to let the darkness win. Every day they would come to a certain spot in the park at 1400, because that was when the University students got out of class, and they would flirt with all the male students as they passed, and they did that right up until they were in their 80's. The two Maria's brought life, and colour and laughter and hope in a very dark time, and so they became cultural icons of the city.
As we stood there listening to their story, I noticed many people going up to the statues and standing beside them for photographs. It seemed odd, because of their story and the way the statues were posed it looked to me like the two Maria's were still flirting with all the men walking past and the outstretched hand was an invitation...one that I could not resist.
After the tour we went to a fabulous vegetarian restaurant, the food was delicious surpassed only by the excellent company, and although Anne was not able to be there, she was very much in our thoughts, and in our hearts. At the end of the meal I was able to share how I felt about each one of them and how they impacted my life, and I was thankful for that opportunity.
In a very emotional moment Mirjam shared with us a little about her time in Finisterre and what had clearly been a very profound and significant experience for her. She offered each one of us a shell from the beach there because she wanted us, in some way, to share in her experience. As I sat beside her listening to her tell her story, I was deeply moved, more than words can express, and deeply honoured that she wanted me to be part of that experience. From the first day that I met her, I knew that there was gold in her, and it shone brightly that night, and I was completely undone.
Mirjam was booked into the Last Stamp for her final night in Santiago and they put her in the same unit as me, and so we were together for one last sleepover. I lay awake for a long time thinking about the next day, knowing that it would be a day of goodbyes, wishing that it were not so.Baca selengkapnya

PelancongI have tears rolling down just remembering that last communal dinner and all the wonderful things you shared about everyone. 💕

Norman GrahamI was a nervous wreck on the inside, and desperate not to look at you or Kathleen in case I started crying as well...but what a night it was
- Tampilkan perjalanan
- Tambahkan ke daftar bucketHapus dari daftar bucket
- Bagikan
- Hari 46
- Selasa, 14 Juni 2022 14.29
- ⛅ 24 °C
- Ketinggian: 260 mi
SpanyolPórtico de La Gloria42°52’50” N 8°32’42” W
Santiago Day 3

Today was a real emotional smorgasbord. After our dinner last night we had thought we would all go to the market for brunch together, but we all missed Anne and so we went down to the park near where she was staying and met her there. It was so good to see her and all thought of going for brunch was abandoned. We all had a wonderful time together, but it would come to an end soon enough.
Our time in Santiago was drawing to a close, and that very day Mirjam would be getting the bus to Porto and then a flight home. She was the first of our little camino family to be leaving Spain. We left the park, all going in different directions, Julia set off to walk to A Coruña, Anita, Meg, Kathleen headed back to town, whilst Anne and I walked to the bus station with Mirjam. I carried Mirjam's mochila one last time as we walked through the busy streets and waited with her until the bus arrived. Mirjam is really cool about travelling, and she was happy to wait until everyone else got on board. The other passengers all seemed to be in such a rush. I wanted time to stop. We hugged and said our goodbyes not knowing if we would ever see one another again. It was the hardest moment of my camino. I had written a message to Mirjam to read on the bus, in which i called her 'nighean mo chridhe', which is Scots gaelic for 'daughter of my heart', for that is what she had come to be for me.
In the afternoon, I went and bought a small wheeled suitcase to put my stuff in for the flight home, I had donated my mochila and sleeping bag to a homeless charity. Meg, Kathleen and Anita were heading off in the early morning to Barcelona so they spent some time packing then we went out for dinner back to the Langrina, where I had best salad I've ever eaten, (Anne was able to come since we were outside) and as a bonus I got to meet the chef (she was lovely, and hilarious). If I am ever in Santiago again, I will be booking a table there.
So, it was a day of joys and sorrows and filled with memories that will never be forgotten and the hope that the goodbyes we had said and those still to come would not be the last word.Baca selengkapnya
- Tampilkan perjalanan
- Tambahkan ke daftar bucketHapus dari daftar bucket
- Bagikan
- Hari 47
- Rabu, 15 Juni 2022 15.17
- ⛅ 26 °C
- Ketinggian: 265 mi
SpanyolPazo de Xelmírez42°52’52” N 8°32’42” W
Santiago Day 4

I got up very early to say goodbye to Meg, Kathleen and Anita, but it was all a rush, they had just gotten downstairs when their airport taxi arrived so it was less a moment of fond farewells and more a hurried wave goodbye as they drove off.
I did not have much to do today, my tourist shopping was all done, my bags were more or less packed ready to go and I was on my own, my companions had either gone home or were away on further travels. Anne would also be moving on out of the city to less expensive accommodation whilst she continued to recover from covid. So, I spent the day drinking coffee, and helping other pilgrims find their way to the cathedral or to the bus station or to the laundry, I suspect there's a full time job there for someone who wants it. I don't have much to report about today other than it was somewhat lonely and I was already missing the ladies. So let me backtrack to the 13th of June and the final meal we had together.
On the night of our last dinner in Santiago together (minus Anne who had covid) I wanted to give them all something that expressed even in a small way how I felt about each of them. I made a few notes so that I would not ramble, but I rambled a bit anyway, so I can't write exactly what I said but it was something like this:
To Meg I gave the gift of a small plaque of the Madonna and Child. Somehow in this camino she had managed to help bring together a group of people who in other circumstances might never have given one another the time of day. She created space and opportunity for us to get to know one another, and like a nurturing mother she had cared for us, encouraged us and had helped us to find the thing that all humans deeply long for - a sense of community, of belonging. A common saying about the camino is that each person must walk their own camino and in many ways that is true. However, her care and nurture of this group reminded me of another truth, put so eloquently by John Donne, "No man is an island entire of itself; every man is a piece of the continent, a part of the main. If a clod be washed away by the sea, Europe is the less." I learned from Meg that whilst we must all walk our own pilgrimage, we can never walk it on our own. We need the friendship and support of others.
Knowing Meg has challenged me to try to be a person who welcomes the stranger, and who creates the space and opportunities that allow people to come together and that helps them to discover the friendship waiting in that space. To be a person who nurtures what is good in others, goodness that they may not yet see themselves.
Meg did not help to create an exclusive club but one that would always welcome the stranger and invite them to belong and so to Guillermo I gave the hand of friendship - it was an actual hand made from blue plastic!
To Kathleen I gave a photograph of a field of sunflowers taken on the camino between Santiponce and Guillena in 2018, it was one of my own photographs, I had managed to find a 1-hour photo lab in Santiago who printed and framed it for me. Ever since I met Kathleen, my days on the camino had been filled with light and laughter, joy and kindness. I will never forget sitting in the dingy albergue in Cea when she walked in, and suddenly it was as if the sun had come out, she lit up the space just by walking into it. Every single day on the camino, she was a ray of sunshine in our lives. So when I think of Kathleen, I am reminded that I need to be a person who brings the light in what is sometimes a dark world. So the photograph of sunflowers was to be for her a reminder of the positive impact she has been to others, to remind her too, of how thankful I am that she brought the light to me.
To Anita I gave a small piece of granite carved into the shape of a shell. Australians have a well-deserved reputation for grit and determination, and a toughness that echoes the hard landscape of their birth. Anita exemplifies those qualities is the most positive way. When it looked like her camino was over through injury, she refused to quit, and she demonstrated courage, and resilience overcoming that injury to return to the camino and complete her journey. She is as tough as Galician granite and Australian bedrock and I admire everything about her. I am sure that I will face challenges in the future, perhaps tough ones, and when I do, I will think of Anita. If I ever feel like I have given all I can and I can't go on, when I feel like giving up, I will think of Anita, her courage, resilience and strength and her refusal to quit and I will tell myself, you're not done yet.
To Mirjam, Julia and Anne (who was there in our thoughts and hearts) I gave a very small gift, a simple blue fridge magnet emblazoned with the yellow arrow of the camino, the ultimate cheap tourist tat.
From the start of our camino, the yellow arrows pointed us forward, providing direction with the unspoken promise that if we followed them we would find a hot shower, a meal and a bed for the night.
As I look at Mirjam, Julia and Anne I see three very beautiful and remarkable young women, beautiful on the outside, certainly, but also beautiful where it counts, on the inside. Each one of these young women is instinctively kind, generous, and thoughtful, and they care about the environment, about justice and about doing what's right. Furthermore, they are smart, brave, independent and capable of more than they yet know, I think they will change the world, one life at a time, just as surely as they have changed mine. Although I had given them a small gift, a little fridge magnet, they had given me a greater gift: the gift of hope in a better future, in a better world.
The evening ended as it began, with shared laughter and shared love and a sense that even as our camino was ending, something else was beginning.Baca selengkapnya
- Tampilkan perjalanan
- Tambahkan ke daftar bucketHapus dari daftar bucket
- Bagikan
- Hari 48
- Kamis, 16 Juni 2022
- ⛅ 24 °C
- Ketinggian: 274 mi
SpanyolPlaza de Platerías42°52’48” N 8°32’36” W
Santiago Day 5

I had to check out of The Last Stamp by 11am, but I was able to leave my case in their secure storage room. The staff had been very friendly and helpful throughout my stay and they were happy to order a taxi for the afternoon to take me to my accommodation near the airport. I walked round to the post office near the Pilgrim Office and posted my walking pole home, it was a lot less expensive than buying a new pole. I went for a cooked breakfast at the same place we went the day we got our Compostelas and it was great.
I wandered around the city for a while taking photographs, stopping for coffee and directing lost pilgrims. Then it was time for my taxi to take me to my B&B near the airport, the driver spoke some English and was very impressed that I had walked from Sevilla, champion he said. The lady owner of the spoke great English, in fact she and her husband had lived and worked there for nearly 40 years. She made me a toasted sandwich and then insisted I try some of the local Galician cake, which was delicious.
I had a quiet night thinking about Meg, Kathleen, Anita, Anne, Julia and Mirjam, and about the camino and how it had changed me, and about home, and wondered how much of the camino I would take home with me. Time will tell.Baca selengkapnya
- Tampilkan perjalanan
- Tambahkan ke daftar bucketHapus dari daftar bucket
- Bagikan
- Hari 49
- Jumat, 17 Juni 2022
- ☀️ 30 °C
- Ketinggian: 283 mi
SpanyolPraza da Inmaculada42°52’54” N 8°32’40” W
Santiago - Falkirk Scotland

I had a very good sleep in The Last 12K B&B, it was very comfortable and the shower was great. I went downstairs for breakfast at 0730 and was surprised to see that it was very busy. When I went outside I realised that it was actually on the Camino Frances and there was a steady line of pilgrims walking by, dozens and dozens of them, some of whom stopped for coffee or breakfast. When my taxi came at 1030, it was still as busy and the line of pilgrims passing had not diminished. If ever I needed a reason never to walk the Camino Frances, that was it.
An English guy was trying to order breakfast, he asked for a cappuccino, toast with butter and jam, but the barmaid didn't speak English, so he did that really rude and ignorant thing of repeating what he had said only slower and louder. The barmaid looked at me with raised eyebrows so I ordered in Spanish what he had asked for then suggested to him that he ought to have at least learned some basic Spanish before coming on the camino. If you are thinking of doing a camino, remember that how you behave will shape what people think about your home country.
I finally met some Scottish pilgrims, and we chatted for a while before they set off.
I had received an email from Ryanair advising me to be at airport security 3 hours before my flight so I did, the airport was very small and I was through security in less than 2 minutes. Coffee beckoned. As soon as the gate was announced I went and sat there. A flight to Bilbao was boarding, about 15-20 minutes after it was boarded and all the staff had gone away, a couple came running to the gate and were furious that it had closed, the guy tried to get a member of staff to let them through but she obviously couldn't do that, she didn't even work for that airline. He tried to force open the door, he went behind the counter and tried to access the computers, he went over to the window and started banging on it because the aircraft was right there. I have never seen anything like it. His partner/wife was trying to drag him away before they got arrested. From where I was sitting it was at once bizarre and entertaining.
I had to temporarily vacate my seat and go back to the security booth at the gate as there had been no one checking passports when myself and a dozen other passengers arrived.
When the time came we boarded without fuss, the aircraft was about 2/3 full, and the middle seat in my row was empty so it was a relaxing, comfortable and uneventful flight home. Barbara was waiting for me at Edinburgh airport, and my camino was over...or was it?
A plan was forming for my camino family to have a reunion in Berlin next year, and at the time of writing it looks like that is going to happen. I had also begun to plan a return to Spain possibly in 2023 to walk the Camino del Norte, and hopefully one or more of the ladies will be able to join me for at least part of that.
If you have managed to read all the way through this camino blog, (well done!), you may have guessed that so much has been left unsaid and many words lie hidden between the lines. Humans seek understanding, we want explanations but the truth is that some things can only be experienced, in fact to explain them is to diminish them. So, I cannot really explain the relationship that has developed between myself and these six lovely humans, especially in so short a time, and it is unusual, even for the camino which is known to bring people together. I am reminded of a verse from the First Testament that speaks of the friendship between Jonathan and David, it says that their souls were 'knit together'. I hesitate to speak on behalf of the others but that is what it feels like to me. As to the how or the why of it, I have no idea.
Someone asked me what the camino has given to me and I can say that I have never felt as healthy or as fit, but the camino has also given me self-confidence, a new perspective on life and a new purpose for life, and renewed hope in the future. Most of all, it has given me six friends I cannot imagine life without.
In his book The Exquisite Risk, Mark Nepo writes that "To journey without being changed is to be a nomad. To change without journeying is to be a chameleon. To journey and be transformed by the journey is to be a pilgrim." So, I'm not sure if my camino is ending or just beginning. One thing I do know, is that it has changed me forever.
"The Road goes ever on and on,
Down from the door where it began.
Now far ahead the Road has gone,
And I must follow, if I can,
Pursuing it with eager feet,
Until it joins some larger way
Where many paths and errands meet.
And whither then? I cannot say" - Bilbo BagginsBaca selengkapnya

PelancongThanks for writing this and sending me the link. I really enjoyed it. It was also brilliant to see you and Babs last week.

PelancongI’m so glad I couldn’t get to reading this until now because it has provided a wonderful chance to reminisce on all that transpired on my Camino. Thank you for taking such great notes and being such a thorough observer. It was wonderful to see the Camino through your eyes. Much love to you!

Norman Grahamaw thanks Meg, I really appreciate that, of course so much of it would never have happened without you, you were the thread running through it even before we met actually via Robert and Ana Mária and then Anita and Mirjam. At least now you know what I was writing in my journal every night!