• Tamsin Gallie
  • Kate Saxton
  • Tamsin Gallie
  • Kate Saxton

Kate and Tamsin Trip 2019

Post Cancer "Fuck it" World Trip ticking off major ticket items - Trans Mongolian Railway, Russia, Bhutan, Italy etc
Moscow, Mongolia, Manchester and everywhere in between
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  • Video of Lake Baikal- new insomnia app!!

    20 september 2019, Ryssland ⋅ ⛅ 8 °C

    Second video is the river as we came into Ulan Ude

  • Ulan Ude and go the All Blacks!!!

    21 september 2019, Ryssland ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    Cracking day here in Ulan Ude.
    There is a v definite Asian/ Mongolian influence here more than any other Russian city we have visited - probably due to the proximity to the border.
    Spent the day sightseeing in temperatures of 22 degs and sunshine.
    First stop was a coffee at the Ethno Buryat Market - a female driven Co-op which we felt we should support.
    Next a visit to the biggest Lenin head statue in the world!!
    Then it was off to see the fountain and the Ballet/Opera building. We were entertained with a photo shoot of a deaf wedding party, a ballet dancer being filmed doing routines en pointe with a bunch of roses, a sports team having photos taken and then 2 more bridal parties before we left- all in 20 mins!
    We walked the pedestrian Arbat Street, had a Korean lunch, photographed the cathedral and then walked home in time for the rugby ABs vs South Africa.
    We r lucky to have a random Russian channel that is showing the RWC - even if the commentary is in Russian!
    Tmrw it’s back on the train, a sad farewell to Russia and a hello to Mongolia!!
    Go the ABs!!! ( it’s half time)
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  • Goodbye TST- Hello TMT (trans mongolian)

    22 september 2019, Ryssland ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    Today is the day we sadly say goodbye to Russia but excitedly say Hello to Mongolia ( well sometime in the night).
    We have swapped the Trans Siberian for the Trans Mongolian.
    We have upgraded today to 1st class as we knew we get locked in the carriage for hours at the borders so we didn’t want to share that- no stinky and snorey for us tonight!
    We have swapped our Russian Provodnistas for Chinese attendants in dainty white lace gloves.
    The carriages are older again with lots of satin and tassels- I think I prefer the Russian leatherette!
    Mongolia here we come - that is if we get through the borders hassle free!
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  • Goodbye Ulan Ude

    22 september 2019, Ryssland ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    .... next time let’s hope all the works r finished and there are lifts and ramps instead of 200 steps!!

  • TMT and the most stunning scenery

    22 september 2019, Mongoliet ⋅ ⛅ 7 °C

    Well the Trans Mongolian first class didn’t overwhelm but nor did it disappoint.
    The light on the autumnal trees dotting the steppe like landscape as soon as we left Ulan Ude kept Kate at the windows with her camera.
    All too soon the sun set so we settled in for a little Netflix before crossing the dreaded Russian border.
    As it was, the border crossings went v smoothly albeit with a little phone issue. Loved it when the huge female immigration official in full uniform presents in the doorway and says “ Border Control get out please”!!! We didn’t hesitate!!
    2 x custom searches, a drug dog, a passport man, a customs form lady and then the border control lady and we were through! All v efficient in 1.5 hours.
    Next we rattled onto the Mongolian border- now midnight. More customs and checks and we were finally on our way ready to catch a few hours sleep.... until they cranked the heaters on full blast!!! Through all of this the toilets had been locked shut! K woke up just as we rolled Into a stop to find the toilets locked again... I though we were going to have to use the she-wee and the 5l water bottle!!!
    We finally rolled into Ulanbataar (UB) as the sun came up this am illuminating Yurt/ gers in their 100’s!!
    I’m going to love Mongolia!!
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  • Good Morning Mongolia and hello UB

    23 september 2019, Mongoliet ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    We rolled into UB train station bleary eyed at 6.50am. Other travellers had tour guides waiting for them with their names on cards, not us , we had a 25 min v uneven walk to the Land Hotel.
    Check in was overseen by some mafia looking types ( maybe they came from the nightclub on the second floor!).
    A shower and a coffee and we met up with the v pleasant Mr Ganba at 10am. He had kindly organised our train tickets from UB to Beijing when we need to leave. 5 bank cards later we managed to withdraw 1.3 million MNT!!!
    The day has been a bit slow but we have explored Sukhbaatar Square and it’s statues including one of Chinggis Khan.
    We had planned to visit the museum but it was closed so on the list that goes for tomorrow.
    We are currently sitting on the 17th floor of the Ramada Terrace bar having some refreshments before returning to our dodgy room.
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  • A musical symphony at The Land Hotel

    23 september 2019, Mongoliet ⋅ 🌙 18 °C

    It’s coming from outside, through the floor and all around- noise and music!! Well more rhythmic noise than music.
    Looked out of the window and found old time dancing and table tennis happening next door.... I’ve had to lock K in!!! Let’s hope it stops at a reasonable hour as it really is v v loud!!Läs mer

  • Mongolian Hot Pot virginity

    24 september 2019, Mongoliet ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C

    Sorry for the many posts today but we had a busy and fabulously random day as always.
    The highlight for K was our first Mongolian Hot Pot lunch. This occurred in a restaurant across the road from our friend Alice Mcgrath’s old “Save the Children” work office - Small world!!
    Our table came with built in halogen hot plates.
    We were then advised to go for the set lunch - 2 broths that would be placed on the hot plates and then fresh vegetables and slices of meat that we would “cook” in the pots of broth. This would be accompanied with dumplings, rice, cook ur own noodles, a side of vegetables, 2 x sauces, fresh herbs, fresh garlic and chillies and a pot of green tea!! Blimey - K was in ecstasy!
    What was even funnier was that as we were trying to work out the etiquette/ ritual of this lunch a full film crew and ? Celebrities came in and proceeded to film whilst the glam anchorwoman interviewed one of the men!!
    We probably broke every rule however we rolled out an hour later totally full and v happy!!
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  • Mongolian National Gallery of Modern Art

    24 september 2019, Mongoliet ⋅ ⛅ 11 °C

    To walk off lunch we visited the National Gallery of Modern Art and thoroughly enjoyed the exhibitions by local artists- even the one they were still putting up in preparation for a exhibition opening tomorrow night which we were invited to!
    One of the staff, Flower who seemed in charge kindly stopped to explain what we were looking at and so we swapped contact details in the hope to put her in touch with a contact we know in Auckland art gallery 😉
    After this nice viewing off we went to the Ramada roof top terrace for a beverage ( via the cashmere shop!!).
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  • Kate in a tri suit....at a military expo

    24 september 2019, Mongoliet ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    On the way to the museum I thought K was hearing things when she said she could hear drumming.... but no we found ourselves in what we think was a military expo! However we r still not sure what it was as there were sports people and a fashion show, plus stalls selling produce ?? Showing off all talents of the military- god knows.
    Next thing I know K is in a tri suit Mongolian wrestling with a local girl.., see video!! She is soo talented!!
    However back to the expo....it was full of dignitaries in full uniforms and v v smart people... and us!! We r still not sure if we were allowed there but no- one asked us to leave so we didn’t!
    The highlight was when the big cheese sat down to play a game of “ flicking knuckle bones” - a traditional mongolia pastime by the look if it!!
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  • Happy Birthday Billy!!

    25 september 2019, Mongoliet ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    Remembering Bill today on his bday. He would have loved Mongolia... red meat and Offal abound!!
    We formally toasted him tonight in traditional Mongolian style/ a white offering sprinkled up/ down and then to the four corners.... sadly it had to be in our bathroom!!!......although we did buy the vodka especially.
    Bill u r missed but not forgotten - RIP XX
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  • First day on tour @ luxury.com - am

    25 september 2019, Mongoliet ⋅ ⛅ 11 °C

    Not sure the luxury tour lived up to its name when we were picked up this am in a yellow school bus!!! We then sat in traffic for longer than we could have walked down to the Ramada. However our guide Unru seems lovely.
    At 9am we met our other tour mates... and we were right - they were the 5 Aussies we saw last night at the terrace bar. They also had picked us for their new tour friends!
    Pleasant introductions to Phil, Isobel, Erica, Libby and Neil followed ( all from Brisbane) and then we were off in our yellow bus to the first stop... a monastery.
    After which it was a long visit to the National History museum not the planned Natural History museum... if we had known this we wouldn’t have gone yesterday!!!
    Finishing at 1pm poor Unru couldn’t read we were all starving so took us to Suhkbaatar Square and then Finally onto lunch.... a mongolia hot pot!!! We were masters today!
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  • First day on tour @luxury.com -pm

    25 september 2019, Mongoliet ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    We finished lunch at 2.30pm ( this is an important fact for later!!), bundled back into the yellow bus and off we go to the Summer Palace museum... right next to a brewery!
    It was kind of interesting but maybe not for 2 hours of Unru explaining about the Buddhist artefacts- which were interesting but could have been done in 45 mins. However it finished off with an unexpected display or stuffed rare and exotic animals the King Bogd the 8th had “acquired”... including a tiger, cheetah, leopard seals, penguins, a bird of paradise, a kea and much much more!!! We weren’t allowed to take photos so sadly no evidence!
    It was then off to a viewpoint- zaisan memorial which celebrated Mongolia’s independence.
    https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Zaisan_Memorial
    The development of UB which was evident from up there was eye watering- they have such traffic gridlocks already.
    Next we encountered first issue of tour.... Unru wanted to take us to a third museum and then for dinner... it was 4.30pm.... none of us wanted to eat again and no- one wanted another museum today. Awkward conversations and voting ensued but we all agreed we earned to go back to hotel for an hour and go for dinner later at 7pm at the earliest. Poor Unru reluctantly agreed so that’s what we did.
    Just returned from a nice Indian meal and now trying to repack for our flight to the Gobi desert tmrw- can’t wait!!
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  • UB to Gobi desert

    26 september 2019, Mongoliet ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    Breakfasted at Ramada and then at 11am got a pick up in the school bus to the airport.
    We flew from UB to the Gobi desert airport before being transferred to the Gobi Nomad Camp- gers/ yurts in the desert...,, at a luxury level it was ridiculous- we had an en-suite shower!!
    To make things worse we sat down to a 4 course gourmet lunch before heading to the Yal Valley.
    Sadly this was a bit frustrating because by the time we got there we were losing light so we not able to walk the full 3 kms into the most stunning gorge. This was made worse by being taken into the museum of stuffed animals which took up even more time.... come on let’s see the beautiful and raw desert!!
    We drove back in the dark and were greeted with a 3 course dinner - 4 hours after our lunch!! I never thought I would complain about too much food but there was too much food and not enough time sightseeing!!
    Ps v limited internet so this may be retrospectively written and delayed!!
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  • Gobi Erdene Camp

    27 september 2019, Mongoliet ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

    We (I) had the best sleep ever during our night in the Ger at Gobi Nomad Lodge. It was dark and cosy inside with the desert wind howling outside- i loved it.
    http://www.gobinomadlodge.com/
    Up at 7am for breakfast ( yep more food) before a 5 hour drive west through the desert.
    Our guide Unru and driver entertained us with a couple of traditional Mongolian songs about a horse and a girl which was v nice. Loved passing herds of double humped camels and horses on the journey.
    We also came across a group of locals and their broken down bus. Whilst our drivers tried to help fixing it the local women shared their camel milk and dried curd.... that was a first!! It was like drinking cheesy natural yoghurt.
    We arrived at Gobi Erdene camp at 1pm, just had a 3 course ( more basic ) lunch and now preparing for a camel ride and a trip to the “singing sandunes”!!
    Gobi is beautiful and hasn’t disappointed too much. Can’t wait to see more
    https://www.amicusmongolia.com/yurt/govi-gobi-e…
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  • Kate loves a double humper!!

    27 september 2019, Mongoliet ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    After our goats milk tea we all apprehensively mounted our double humped Gobi camels.
    Kate’s had a definite limp front hump!!
    The females of the camp led us off in 2 groups of 3 camels. We then had the funniest 30 min camel ride through the Gobi desert dealing with one camel with obvious IBS, one who took a like to Isobel’s T-shirt, one who kept trying to get ahead crushing Libby’s leg and Kate bringing up the rear with her limp hump!!
    We all loved it but could hardly walk after an unceremonious dismount.
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  • The singing sand dunes

    27 september 2019, Mongoliet ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Khongoryn_Els
    After our camel ride we dismounted at the base of the singing sand dunes. They were beautiful but sadly we were losing the light to be able to attempt to climb to the top so we contented ourselves with sitting and watching the changing light.
    After this it was a stop at a spring which flows faster with ground vibration or loud noise!!!
    Back to the camp for dinner and a beer. Brilliant day!!
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  • Havtsgait Peteoglyphs

    28 september 2019, Mongoliet ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    After breakfast we left Gobi Erdene at 8am and jumped into our 4 wheeled drives.
    We took a breathtaking route through a valley of jagged rocks which looked like the backs of sleeping dinosaurs.
    Stopping for a break after 2 hours K found what looks like a man made flint and given its location may have to be gifted to the museum when we get back to UB.
    Next stop the Petroglyphs- 5000yr old stone carvings high up at the top of a v v steep hill.
    Sadly Unru does not know the type of stones but they were huge slabs of the darkest, purple metallic rocks unlike any I have ever seen- so wish we had a geologist with us. It was a v special place with a jaw dropping view of the gobi.
    Going back down wasn’t much fun as the rocks waiting to be landed on were razor pointed in their jaggedness.
    All down in one piece it was an hour back to Gobi Nomad lodge and back to our luxury gers for lunch and a free afternoon as it was now 2pm.
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  • Archery competition like no other

    28 september 2019, Mongoliet ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    At 4pm we were to meet at the goat skin target.
    What ensued was an hour of hilarity as everyone competed in the “inaugural Gobi Archery Quest 2019” with proper bow and arrow. Unru failed to advise on technique until after the winner had been decided.
    Neil was v competitive
    Phil was a v good sport but tried hard
    Isobel had a cracking strength
    Erica sadly lacked technique and strength but improved with practice
    Kate too out the best shot hitting the 40 pointer tail
    But the overall winner was Libby who managed to hit the silver fence topper for 30 points on several occasions.
    What was hilarious was Libby beamed with pure and honest joy when presented with the home made trophy... and admitted it was the first sporting trophy she had won since “ most improved in under 8 hockey”!!! ..... bearing in mind this is the previous CEO of Queensland Music!!
    Everyone is expecting this competition to be continued annually!! Photos to follow
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  • The Flaming Cliffs & a flaming dinosaur!

    29 september 2019, Mongoliet ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

    After breakfast at 9 am we departed for the Flaming Cliffs an hours drive away.
    After dodging the souvenir stall we spent an hour or so climbing over the sandy, wind sculpted red cliffs with a vast view of the desert plains below us. This included a belt of rare Gobi trees which have the plain a shade of green. These r now protected and are not allowed to be cut for buildings or firewood.
    Getting down from the cliffs was a mission as Unru wasn’t sure of the way.... luckily K and Neil worked out the safest was down and we arrived safely at the bottom after some anxiety.
    Next it was off to a close up of the Gobi trees where K spotted a type of mouse- gone before most of us could see it.! She got a photo on her camera as proof!
    Neil was interested in the history of dinosaur fossils found in the area so off we went “ fossicking”.
    This turned into the weirdest experience ever.... our driver got out of the car, walked over to a little culvert, started digging at the soft sand with his hands and hey presto..... a real life dinosaur skeleton -WTF!!!! One of the drivers confirmed that if u lick a piece of bone and its dinosaur it will stick to ur tongue/ finger ( this was done with a chip in the sand)!!! By now we were all mesmerised but really uncomfortable. Unru informed us the palaeontologists knew the area had so many fossils they no longer feel the need to protect the site- however we felt it really should be protected .... especially as 12 dirt bike tourists roared past!!
    Our driver recovered the fossil once more and left it in peace and we got back into our vehicles slightly bewildered by the whole experience!!
    After another 4 course lunch it was a trip to the onsite museum and now an hours test before a visit to a herder family.... hopefully an experience not a terrible village visit.
    Photos to follow
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