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Northern Lights February 2022
  • James Frith
  • James Frith

Northern Lights February 2022

Hurtigruiten costal cruise to see Northern Lights En savoir plus
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  • Début du voyage
    4 février 2022
    James FrithNorthern Lights February 2022Voyageur

    Travel to Bergen

    4 février 2022, Norvège ⋅ 🌧 2 °C

    Arrived in Bergen and transferred to Nordnorge. Complicated with all covid documentation needed to enter Norway and be allowed to board ship. Norway had just changed entry requirements from taking test on entry at airport to accepting vaccination passports, so that bit was easy. But Hurtigruiten wanted evidence of a test in last 24 hours or take a test at harbourside before being allowed to board. Fortunately we took nhs tests that morning, both negative, these results were accepted and were allowed to join the shorter queue to collect our ship’s passes and then board.
    Temperature checks everywhere on ship - to board and even enter restaurant!    En savoir plus

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  • James FrithNorthern Lights February 2022Voyageur

    Alesund

    5 février 2022, Norvège ⋅ ☁️ 2 °C

    Was a rough night with boat lurching from side to side, by morning running 2 1/2 hours behind schedule. Calm at 7 so went for breakfast which turned out to be a very good call as back into the rough open channel at 8 and even rougher than had previously been, Karen found out the seasick tablets to get through this bit. Plenty of snow already last trip we didn’t see any until nearer the artic circle.
    Currently stopped at Alesund, went on our own for a walk around town. I slipped over within 100 yards of ship! expect picture has already been shared. Did the mountain walk I went right to top this time, Karen went about 300 stairs. Glad I thought to put spikes in bag as was snowy and icy on a lot of the steps.
    Sorry see some pictures have loaded upside down, don’t know why.    En savoir plus

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  • James FrithNorthern Lights February 2022Voyageur

    Trondheim

    6 février 2022, Norvège ⋅ 🌧 2 °C

    Arrived Trondheim this morning. The island is just outside Trondheim harbour and has been variously used for Viking executions a monastery and a prison. Here for about 2 1/2. hours, took walk through town to Cathedral, (closed to visitors due to services) so just had coffee in the visitor centre and wandered back via the old wooden bridge. (In Norway shops are all closed on Sundays.) Went to lunch only to find our reserved table for the 13:00 sitting was occupied. We left the restaurant and left allowing the manager 30 mins to sort out a new table for us. Complimentary beer/wine this evening to compensate. Said the people now understood they had to use their reserved table and lunch was not free seating. We have probably one of the better tables, stern of boat with large window. Watched the snow coming down on the ship this afternoon, everything starting to look very white.pictures are island, converted warehouse apartments alongside river, cathedral, bridge, another riverside view from bridge,En savoir plus

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  • James FrithNorthern Lights February 2022Voyageur

    Artic Circle

    7 février 2022, Norvège ⋅ ⛅ 0 °C

    Overnight announcement about Northern Lights took us outside into the cold (cabin selection deliberate to give quick access to rear viewing deck). To the naked eye it looked a cream colour but the photos detected a greenish tinge. Hope to see more increased activity and colour in the next few days when we are in the Artic Circle. At 08:15 we crossed into the artic circle, went outside to watch passing the “globe” which marks 66.67 degrees north. Stopping at several small town/villages for a quick unload/load of a few passengers and cargo finally reached Bodo, the days main stop, at 13:00. Although large (for Norway) it is basically an industry/ trading town and has no real interesting features. Snowing and slippery we walked into town and back, climaxing in Karen falling over as we approached the gate to the docks as she politely moved to the side to allow a couple pass who were coming from the ship and taking the full path width. Thomson tomorrow and our first booked excursion.En savoir plus

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  • James FrithNorthern Lights February 2022Voyageur

    Tromso

    8 février 2022, Norvège ⋅ ☁️ -3 °C

    After breakfast walk around ship as dawn began breaking, daylight hours are getting shorter as we go north, about 8 hours in Tromso getting dark between 3 and 4 this afternoon. Big disappointment, high winds meant gondola wasn’t running so that part of today’s tour cancelled. Lots of snow everywhere, trip went to aquarium, main attraction being 4 seals, across bridge to mainland (main bit of Tromso is on island but large residential part on mainland) to the “cathedral”, actually a church, old wooden cathedral is in middle of town, but more impressive so known as the Artic Cathedral. Guide did find another high spot accessible by coach to compensate not going to top of mountain ( see building picture 3, that’s where we should have been).
    Have no idea why some photos get twisted around all look good in my photo library.    En savoir plus

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  • James FrithNorthern Lights February 2022Voyageur

    Nordkapp

    9 février 2022, Norvège ⋅ ⛅ -3 °C

    Alert during last night’s dinner about northern lights saw half the diners dash out, we finished dinner and went out later and still managed to get some photos. Today is the excursion to Nordkapp, furthest point north on continental Europe, ( real point is actually a spit of land nearby, bit you can see behind picture of Karen, but too small for a visitor centre). So 30km coach ride on snowy and icy roads. Fourtunately little traffic, population here approximately 2700, most of whom live in Honningsvag, the town were we docked, the others in small fishing villages mostly 40 - 50 people but one village is only 9. Apparently a good day to go, very clear and only -2, guide said was quite warm but not sure would totally agree. Visitor centre, a number of sculptures and plenty of snow. The globe is the feature here, I had my picture with it, Karen declined to attempt the snowy/icy steps. One of the first times the whole excursion took place in daylight, total night only ended in January. The sun was setting as we left.En savoir plus

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  • James FrithNorthern Lights February 2022Voyageur

    Kirkenes

    10 février 2022, Norvège ⋅ ☁️ -4 °C

    Half way point, we turn around today and start heading back to Bergen. But first a 3 hour trip across to the ice hotel. Created entirely of ice (in summer it is covered with tarpaulin and cold air piped in to keep the frame frozen. Normal hotel features with 9 rooms with ice beds and a bar it is full of ice sculptures and ice/snow carvings on the walls. Part two was the reindeer, 3 reindeer are rented from the Sami people and came close enough to be hand fed some moss. Finally a dog sledge trip through the countryside and across a nearby frozen lake.En savoir plus

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  • James FrithNorthern Lights February 2022Voyageur

    Mehamn / Kjollefjord

    11 février 2022, Norvège ⋅ ❄️ -1 °C

    The alarm went off at 00:30 so that we had time to “layer up” before disembarking at 01:20. But backtrack a few hours, the evening before at around 18:00 the northern lights call went out, probably the best night yet! Back to the early morning 2 minibuses were waiting as we disembarked through the goods entrance, apparently a problem with the passenger steps, Karen and I in group 2. 5 minutes later we arrived at a small industrial building on the edge of Mehamn. The winter clothing was all laid out for each of us by name, although Karen initially went for Kevin. 10 minutes later all dressed we were being briefed on snowmobiles. Being identified as one of the 2 heavyweights in the party I was asked to use one of the bigger snowmobiles whilst Karen took one of the smaller ones at the rear. Then off!
    Very rough terrain, lots of ridges and ruts created from previous rides had frozen into hard ice, which mean’t a lot of effort to keep straight as each one you hit threw you sideways in one direction or the other. 5 minutes in and a particular complicated manoeuvre for us novices, across a road, aim for a gap between the snow dunes on the opposite side and then a sharp right downhill turn immediately after gap. 100 metres further on the guide called us to a halt, there had been an accident, one of the rear riders had overturned hare snowmobile. 5 minutes later we resumed our journey to Kjollefjord, with the crashed skimobile abandoned and the unfortunate rider now travelling pillion with the guide. 15 minutes later we had the first official stop, the guide reorganised the order and I was relegated from 2nd (directly following guide) to 3rd as I was travelling faster and a large gap kept developing after me. Another 15 minutes and another short stop, attempted pictures but not easy wearing the thick gloves! Apparently our route was over the reindeer’s summer pasture ( apparently about 15000 graze there in the summer months), eventually a coach was seen in the distance, this was the end of the trek and the coach would take us the last 15 minutes of the trip into Kjollefjord where we were to rejoin the Nordnorge. A quick change in the garage by the ship into our clothes, those boots were really difficult to get off and then back onboard to resume the journey. We’re we cold ? Not particularly, the clothes provided were good against the wind, wet and cold, your feet were by the engine and heated handlebars kept our hands warm. Only bit that felt cold was where the cold wind crept between the helmet and the visor. The crash victim (fyi there was also someone in the other group who ended up abandoning the snowmobile and travelling pillion with their guide), declined to allow photos of the bruises sustained taken and published so photos are a bit limited.    En savoir plus

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  • James FrithNorthern Lights February 2022Voyageur

    Svolvaer, capital of the Lofoten Islands

    12 février 2022, Norvège ⋅ ⛅ -1 °C

    Faster going south than the trip north, but in those few days the temperature has dropped at least 5 degrees and is now always negative and there is significantly more snow. The small overnight 10 or 15 minute stops heading north are daytime stops heading south through the fjords of the many Lofoten Islands, with only a few places where the stop was long enough to go out and explore. Hammerfest was 2 hours, but no longer stops in the centre of the town and not practical to walk in and back in the time allowed. An hour at Stokmarknes allowed us to stretch our legs but basically just a small working fishing town, an hour was enough to walk all around. A detour to the mouth of Trollfjord, not allowed to enter in the winter as even on a small Hurtigruiten ship the snow and ice make it too narrow to Navigate. Final stop of the day is 2 hours in Svolvaer. None of the trips were appealing, so just went out for a wander around the town before dinner, it started snowing again when we were out and as we prepare to depart it is quite heavy. The pictures: 1 and 2 were taken in Harstad, 3 is Stokmarknes, 4 is the mouth of trollefjord, 5 and 6 are Svolvaer.En savoir plus

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  • James FrithNorthern Lights February 2022Voyageur

    Bronnoysund

    13 février 2022, Norvège ⋅ ⛅ 1 °C

    The mid morning announcement probably sums up today’s journey, “on the port, left hand, we are currently passing the seven sisters, if you come to the expedition room we can show you pictures of what is hidden by the blizzard conditions”. We left the artic circle about 08:00 after the crew had cleared the overnight snow from the outside observation deck, then after that it started snowing again. Several small stops before arriving late afternoon in Bronnoysund, today’s long stop - 2 hours. Fortunately it had stopped snowing, so we went for a wet slushy walk through town, no shopping, all shops are closed in Norway on Sundays, eventually arriving at the church where a local guitar and accordion group were playing. Then back through the slush to the ship to dry out. With the temperature expected to drop below zero overnight Brnoysund will be treacherous tomorrow.En savoir plus

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  • James FrithNorthern Lights February 2022Voyageur

    Kristiansund

    14 février 2022, Norvège ⋅ ☁️ 0 °C

    Heading south at a fast rate now, the long stop was at Trondheim, but was at 06:00 so stayed onboard as looked cold and icy and is a 15 minute walk into town, when at that time nothing would be open. Could see piles of snow where it had been thrown up by the ploughs but nothing looked fresh. Cruising south the snowline was retreating so that it was only the higher levels of the mountain that had snow. At lUnchtime we passed several large wind farms, around 100 turbines in total. The second main stop was Kristiansund, arriving at 16:30 we had an hour for a quick walk. Kristiansund is a historical fishing town, famous for clipfish (dried and salted cod), the statue is supposed to represent the fisherwoman who developed the process. Although today there were few fishing boats mostly larger gas and oil support vessels. No sign of any fresh snow here, but bitterly cold so we returned to the ship.En savoir plus

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  • James FrithNorthern Lights February 2022Voyageur
    1

    Bergen and Home

    15 février 2022, Norvège ⋅ 🌧 2 °C

    Cruising back to Bergen for the plane home. A couple of overnight stops before an equally brief stop in Moloy, but was after breakfast so gave a last opportunity for some daylight snaps. Out of cabin by 10:00, but found us a window table in coffee bar, so can have a last latte and cake later this morning. No more stops just 7 hours of watching the changing scenery, the snow slowly disappearing being replaced by trees, a fish farm, ships of all sizes. With plenty of time before the flight the coach went on the scenic route through Bergen to grit to the airport. to the airport Showing off some of the remaining wooden houses, cathedral, Grieg concert hall, the castle where the royal family stay when in Bergen and the “castle” nearby that Grieg built for himself. Slight delay on flight, the ground staff sat everyone in the front seats so the aircrew spent 10 minutes moving people around in order to “balance” the plane!En savoir plus

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    Fin du voyage
    15 février 2022