• Portinscale to Rosthwaite via Catbells

    2025年5月20日, イングランド ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C

    The plan to take the bus to Catbells, the third of the Keswick 3 peaks, was thwarted due to ongoing roadwork, so we had to get off at Portinscale after a diversion there; it just means a longer walk!

    We repeat the Portinscale to Hawes End part from yesterday and start ascending Catbells from the cattle grid stop (where we should have got off). The ascent via Skelgill Bank is fairly steep, but there are great views on another lovely day. We reach the top; it is 1,480 feet above sea level, and one of the most popular fell walks in the Lake District with fabulous views.

    We carry on along the fell and then descend to the southern end of Derwentwater and Manesty Park. We proceed along the edge of Maiden Moor, enjoying views of Bull Crag and High Spy, towards Grange. Here, we join the Cumbria Way, eventually passing Hollows Farm before turning down towards the River Derwent and Borrowdale.

    The Valley is very scenic, and we come yo a disused quarry area for slate with a cave. The River Derwent is devoid of water in parts (it has not rained heavily for a while, which is unusual in the Lake District) after we leave the woods. We reach what is known as New Bridge and cross the river, following the Cumbria Way to Rosthwaite to catch the bus back to Keswick.

    It's been another lovely walk in great weather; 9.1 miles and a total of 2,139 feet of ascent.
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  • Derwentwater Lake Circuit

    2025年5月19日, イングランド ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C

    The plan today is to walk around Derwentwater; we head down Keswick Main Street and cross the bridge over the River Greta before turning off to join the Cumbria Way as it runs along the west shore of Derwentwater; the Cumbria Way is a linear 70 mile walk that connects the towns of Carlisle and Ulverston. We walk towards Portinscale and then follow it to Hawes End Jetty; this is the landing stage for the main walk to Catbells, another of the Keswick 3 peaks.

    We follow the Cumbria Way to Otterbield Bay, and on past the two Brandelhow landing stages to Manesty Park at the southern end of the lake. We leave the Cumbria Way here and carry on to the cross the River Derwent again; there are great views of Catbells and Walla Crag from here. From Lodore, we walk northwards towards Keswick via the edge of woodlands to Barrow Bay and on to Ashness Gate landing stage (more great views). We then proceed via Calfclose Bay and Stable Hills to Friars Crag, named for its use as a disembarkment point for monks, making a pilgrimage to St Herbert's Island. It is a short walk back to Keswick from here; it has been a lovely 10.6-mile walk.
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  • Keswick to Rosthwaite, via Walla Crag

    2025年5月18日, イングランド ⋅ ☀️ 13 °C

    This walk takes us up to Walla Crag, also one of the Keswick three peaks.

    We walk up via Moot Hall in Keswick Market Square and up past St John's Church before following Springs Road to Springs Farm, and then up through Springs Wood to Rakefoot. There are good views as we walk up past Great Wood to Walla Crag, but even better views from the viewing area at the top of Walla Crag!

    We leave here and follow the path towards Falcon Crag and then down to Ashness Bridge; this is a small, traditional packhorse bridge and very photogenic. From here, there is a narrow road through the woods up to Surprise View, named for its lovely view of Derwentwater. We turn off the road and follow a broad track through the woods, and at the end, we walk along the Watendlath Beck, which takes us to the small hamlet of Watendlath, managed by the National Trust. It is situated by an attractive Tarn and also noted for its packhorse bridge.

    We then follow a very stony and undulating bridleway towards Rosthwaite to catch the bus back to Keswick. It's been a lovely walk of 9.8 miles (according to the OS app on my mobile).
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  • Latrigg Fell Circular Walk

    2025年5月17日, イングランド ⋅ ☀️ 15 °C

    We arrived yesterday in Keswick to spend a week in the Lake District, this time in the northern area. Keswick is a market town in Cumbria, just north of Derwent Water.

    Latrigg (Fell) is one of the lowest fells in the Lake District, and one of the Keswick "3 Peaks" - the others are Walla Crag and Catbells - which surround Derwent Water. By coincidence, this weekend is the annual Keswick Mountain Festival, which features various outdoor adventures, speakers, and live music; one event is the sponsored 3 peaks hike, a figure of 8 walk around Derwent Water, covering Catbells and Walla Crag, and then around and up Latrigg. We see a number of entrants on this 17.5-mile hike as we do our 1 Peak circular walk!

    We start at the Moot Hall in Keswick and cross the River Greta to Fitz Park before heading east via the trail along the old Keswick to Threlkeld railway line. After a while, we pass under the A66 and recross the River Greta, leaving the railway trail, to walk along a forested path. We eventually turn to walk up Latrigg, enjoying magnificent views on the way to, and at, the top of Latrigg (1,203 feet). From the top, it's down via Mallen Dodd, and then the Cumbria Way back to Keswick.

    It's been a lovely 7.6-mile walk in fine weather; a drink at the Keswick Brewery and its Fox Tap and Beer Shop is well justified!
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  • Woodwalton Fen, Woodwalton, and Upwood

    2025年4月30日, イングランド ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    These places were visited on a 13.7 mile walk with the Cambridge Rambling Club - a bit of a longer walk than usual!

    The walk starts in Upwood, a village in the parish of Upwood and the Raveleys, approx. 7 miles north of Huntingdon and still part of Cambridgeshire.  We leave the village heading due west and then south past Lady's Wood before heading north along the Great Raveley Drain towards Woodwalton Fen.  

    Woodwalton Fen is a site of Special Scientific Interest and managed by Natural England; it is one of only four remaining fragments of the ancient wild fens that once stretched for 1,350 square miles across the area and a last haven for many rare fen species (not that we saw them).  The ancient wild fens once stretched for miles across a huge part of East Anglia, but more than 99% of the habitat disappeared when the land was drained for agriculture, and this site would not exist today if it were not for Charles Rothschild, a successful banker, wildlife enthusiast and "father of modern conservation".  We walk along several of the trails before leaving on the other side and walking south towards Manor Farm and Church End, where the redundant parish church of St Andrew stands - it is now in the keeping of the Friends of Friendless Churches.  From there, it is still over a mile to the village Woodwalton itself.  

    From Woodwalton, we then walk east passing through Lady's Wood, an 18-acre nature reserve west of Upwood, and then through Upwood Meadows National Nature Reserve and a biological Site of Special Scientific Interest, before arriving back in Upwood.  It has been a lovely walk on a lovely day in an area I have never visited before.
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  • Grime's Graves

    2025年4月16日, イングランド ⋅ ☁️ 11 °C

    We arrive at Grime's Graves and go to the visitor centre first.

    The name Grime's Graves means "pits of the pagan god Grim" (Grim is also known as Woden) and was named by the Anglo Saxons. It is a prehistoric / Neolithic flint mine that was worked between 2,600 and 2,300 BC; the site covers about 91 acres, and there are many shafts dug into the natural chalk to reach the seams of flint.  There are three layers of flint here - the upper "top-stone, middle "wall-stone" and the bottom "floor-stone" - and the flint was used for making stone axes in this period,  The formation of flint is a complex process which began in the chalk seas millions of years ago, and flint forms in bands or layers because chalk sedimentation occurs in cycles and/or because the process during formation exhausts the silica within a given depth of sediment and flint formation can only recommence when there is enough silica to start the process again.  The site was first extensively explored by the archaeologist William Greenwell in 1868.

    We visit the one pit open to the public (9m deep, with a steep staircase) - it is the only one of its kind open to the public in the UK - and we enter it to explore the shaft.  Afterwards, we take the walking trail around the site; Grime's Graves is a really interesting place to visit.
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  • Caister-on-Sea to Sea Palling

    2025年4月15日, イングランド ⋅ 🌧 10 °C

    Caister-on-Sea, also known as Caister, is a large village, seaside resort, and civil parish 2.75 miles north of Great Yarmouth and 18 miles east of Norwich.  Caister's history dates back to Roman times, and around 200 CE a fort was built here as a base for a unit of the Roman army and navy (which we visit as we leave the village).  

    We start from Caister Lifeboat Station and pass Caister Point on our way to California Gap and beyond; the Coastal Path has to divert to the beach at Scratby due to extensive coastal erosion further up towards, and at, Hemsby.  We can leave the beach here and re-join the footpath towards Winterton-on-Sea; there are excellent views along here, and at Winterton the path goes down to the beach and proceeds along the Winterton Dunes, a national nature reserve, as far as Winterton Ness where we re-join a footpath towards Horsey Gap. 

    Horsey Gap is a sandy beach known for its grey seal colony (we see some in the distance), and is a nature reserve that is part of the Norfolk Broads National Park; there are many groynes here, all numbered to help identify location of the seal pups.  The path takes us along Delve Bank towards Waxham and beyond to Sea Palling; Sea Palling Lifeboat Station is a voluntary-staffed and charitable-funded lifeboat station located in the village.
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  • Hopton to Caister via Great Yarmouth

    2025年4月14日, イングランド ⋅ ⛅ 11 °C

    We take the Coastal Hopper bus from Caister-on-Sea to Hopton-on-Sea and cross through the Potters Resort, a holiday seaside resort, to the start (or end) of the Norfolk Coastal Path.

    We start walking up the coastal path before and follow it as it descends to the beach. We reach Gorleston-on-Sea, a seaside town in the south of the borough of Great Yarmouth, and situated on the River Yare. Gorleston was a centre for fishing, but the decline in this industry during Edwardian times changed to a seaside resort. The footpath follows along the road through Southtown, originally known as Little Yarmouth, but now part of the Great Yarmouth district.

    We cross the bridge over the River Yare into Great Yarmouth itself; it has been a resort since 1760, as it is a gateway to the Norfolk Broads and the North Sea, and holidaymaking rose in 1844 when the railway opened -it has blossomed as a resort during the 20th century. The Coastal path heads towards the South Quay area, but then then crosses over towards the coast, past the friary ruins, and St George's Park. We walk along the promenade and divert through Venetian Waterways Park; this was constructed in 1926 by local men to boost post-war employment.

    We carry on along the North Beach, where there are lots of sand dunes, up towards Caister-on-Sea; we head back to the accommodation at RNLI Caister Lifeboat station; it has been a 10.3 mile walk, with lots of interesting sites - see captions on photos for details.
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  • Ickworth House

    2025年4月13日, イングランド ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C

    We are on en route to Caister-on Sea to walk some more of the Norfolk Coastal Path and divert to stop off en route at Ickworth House, near Bury St Edmunds.

    Ickworth House is a National Trust property and is a large neo-classical / Italianate country house set in Parkland. It was built by Frederick Hervey, the 4th Earl of Bristol, and also the Bishop of Derry, between 1795 and 1829. The "Earl Bishop," as he was known, travelled extensively in Europe and was inspired to build the Italian inspired Rotunda to live in, with galleries in the in the east and west wings to showcase the art and sculptures collected in his travels. It has been the chief dwelling of the Hervey family since then, before being passed to the National Trust in 1956.

    We walk around the rotunda and east and west wings of the house, seeing the upstairs, ground floor, and basement (see captions on photos for details).

    We then explore some of the gardens and grounds, walking the River Linnet trail, with part of Lady Hervey's walk for views of the Walled Garden. We then visit the Italianate Garden and walk the Alabana Wood Trail.

    It has been a great visit.
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  • Anglesey Abbey 3; Finding the Flock

    2025年4月9日〜12日, イングランド ⋅ ☀️ 11 °C

    Anglesey Abbey is hosting a Wild in Art trail in its gardens and grounds over the Easter period based on the character Shaun the Sheep; Shaun the Sheep is a British stop-motion animated silent children's television series, and a spin-off in the Wallace & Gromit franchise.  There are twelve uniquely decorated Shaun the Sheep sculptures on the ‘Find the Flock’ trail; each 160cm sculpture has been painted by either a national or international artist with bright colours and bold patterns.  After the event, the sheep sculptures will be returned to their respective owners.

    On this visit to Anglesey Abbey, we decide to pick up a trail map and follow the Follow the Flock route around the grounds to see all twelve of the sculptures.  It is interesting to see them, as well as the grounds themselves again!

    The location numbers are shown on the map, and these numbers and sculpture names are shown on the picture captions.
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  • Anglesey Abbey 2; Gardens and Grounds

    2025年4月9日, イングランド ⋅ ☀️ 10 °C

    We have also visited the gardens and grounds of Anglesey Abbey many times over the last 3 years, and this post shows them; the garden at Anglesey Abbey was developed by the 1st Lord Fairhaven from 1926 and has become one of the British Isles' most beautiful 20th century gardens.

    After entry, it is convenient to walk to the house (see previous post) and see the formal gardens; these comprise 4 small gardens, including the dahlia garden, rose garden and a semi-circular herbaceous border.  From here, we walk through the herbaceous garden and then along Quy Water towards Lode Mill; this is a historic watermill that was acquired Lord Fairhaven in 1926 and restored it to its original corn-milling condition (after Lode Mill, Quy Water becomes Bottisham Lode, a branch of the River Cam).  This walk brings us back towards the entrance where we drop off and walk along tree lined avenues and other footpaths to see more of Lord Fairhaven's impressive collection of statues that is positioned throughout the gardens and the grounds.

    It is always interesting to visit the gardens at all times of the year.
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  • Anglesey Abbey 1; The House

    2025年4月9日, イングランド ⋅ ☀️ 10 °C

    Helen and I have been members of the National Trust for a few years now and have visited Anglesey Abbey many times.

    Anglesey Abbey is in the village of Lode, 5.5 miles northeast of Cambridge; the property includes a country house, built on the remains of a priory, large gardens and landscaped grounds, totalling 98 acres, and a working mill (Lode Mill).  After an interesting history, the house was acquired by Lord Fairhaven as the last private owner of Anglesey Abbey; he made extensive additions to the house to provide room for his rapidly expanding collection of books, paintings, tapestries, clocks, furniture and objets d'art, and he left it to the National Trust when he died in 1966.  The interior is noted for its contents, as well as the beautiful rooms (see captions on photos).  

    This post describes a visit to the interior of the house that we have made previously (see captions on photos for details).
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  • Northstowe and neighbouring villages

    2025年4月2日, イングランド ⋅ ☀️ 12 °C

    Northstowe is a new town in Cambridgeshire; the site covers Oakington Barracks on the former RAF Oakington, a World War II airfield.  Northstowe is now a civil parish formed from Longstanton and Oakington and Westwick in April 2021; building first started in the early 2015, is ongoing, and forecast to have 24,400 residents in 10,000 homes long term. There are many new houses, but not many amenities, and, on the outskirts, there are small lakes

    It is convenient to start a circular walk from here from the Longstanton Park and Ride site here, and I do so with the Cambridge Rambling Club Wed A group.  We set off and walk close to the Park and Ride and one of the several small lakes here before turning off towards Rampton. The village is situated on the edge of The Fens and was well populated in Roman times before vanishing and reappearing in the Anglo-Saxon period.  The attractive Church of All Saints is one of a very few English churches with a thatched roof and one of only two in Cambridgeshire.  After stopping here, we pass the earthwork remains of a castle, known as Giant's Hill, are located to the east of the village by the church; construction started about 1140, but it was never completed.

    We now head south towards the parish of Oakington and Westwick, passing Westwick Hall, before diverting to Histon (to be covered in a future FP post). Later on, we rejoin the route and carry on to Oakington.  In 1940, a Royal Air Force bomber airfield, RAF Oakington, was constructed at Oakington covering 540 acres and this is reflected in the village sign; the site of the barracks is in the process of forming part of Northstowe.  In the 17th century, Oakington was considered to be a "hot-bed of religious dissent"; behind the churchyard of St Andrew's Church, there is a private burial ground containing the graves of three vicars who helped establish the non-conformist movement and various non-conformist churches in Cambridgeshire. Ejected from their livings, persecuted and imprisoned for propagating their faith during their lives, they became known as the 'Oakington Martyrs' in death.

    We carry on to the outskirts of Longstanton; the village was transformed by the opening of RAF Oakington in 1940, resulting in the building of three new housing estates in the village and a trebling of the population.  We passed St Michael's Church, situated towards the south of the village, built around 1230 and the second rare example of a church with a thatched roof in Cambridgeshire; it is now a Grade II listed building.

    We then follow the paths back to the Park and Ride, passing a cantilevered pillbox that was part of the RAF Oakington site, before seeing a bit more of Northstowe; it has been an interesting 12.4 mile walk.
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  • Dinky Doors

    2025年3月26日, イングランド ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C

    Dinky Doors are a series of miniature sculptures (with doors), lovingly made and hidden just out of plain sight in the beautiful city of Cambridge; they are intended as little portals into other worlds, made with a dollop of humour to spark imaginations and make people smile - and there is usually a story behind them.  The artists "dream of a world where the young, old, rich and poor can experience a 'jolt of joy’ or a ‘dollop of delight’ to brighten their day and momentarily forget their worries.  They were involved with "Moomoo-o-Tron III," one of the Cows about Cambridge (see other FP trip, July 2022)  which was auctioned off to raise money for charity.

    The artworks change over time and mysteriously appear in various locations; here are those that I have seen in situ:

    1.  Museum of Technology - Here, a  spaceship containing the Dinky Doors Supreme Leader has crashed into the wall.

    2.  Sedgewick Street - The Octospa artwork incorporates a bollard on the street which has been painted to look like a lighthouse; in front, there's a lighthouse keeper’s cottage (including the door) and, just outside, an octopus enjoying a spa bath in a flower bed.

    3. Parker's Piece - Situated at Reality Checkpoint, where the reality bubble of "gown" meets the reality of "town."

    4. Market Square - The Teloport-o-matic is a new and improved teleportation service costing only 3 pence.

    5. All Saints Garden - Love from above has a present on a doorstep for a demon behind the door; the present has been left by an angel on the roof above.

    6. Jesus Lock footbridge - The Ride and Park portal enables you to get a ride to Wandlebury or Milton Country Parlk, depending on your choice.

    7. Green Street - Rocket Rocket is a vehicle ror going off to find the Supreme Leader, powered by rocket (arugula).

    8. Sussex Street - Wonder Emporium is a little storefront where various knick knacks can be purchased for 3p each (genuine 3p coins only).

    9. Trinity Street - Mage's Pages outside the Cambridge Press bookstore a little book garden tended by a Bookmage and the source of all the books in the store.

    10. Parkside - Dinky Shrinky outside the Entopia Building on Regent Street next to Parkside is a solar-powered shrink ray and observation laboratory that can shrink both unhappiness and also CO2 emissions.

    11. Downing Street - 10 (and a quarter) Downing Street outside the New Museum site has a purple octopus pouring out of the door panels (perhaps from the Zoology Museum on the other side of the wall).
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  • Scramble! - The Summer of 1940

    2025年2月13日, イングランド ⋅ ☁️ 4 °C

    It is that time of year again when IWM Duxford holds its winter spotlight exhibition; this year, it is "Scramble!" - the signal for RAF pilots in the Summer of 1940 during the Battle of Britain to run to their aircraft, take off, and engage the Luftwaffe in a battle for the skies. 

    The exhibition brings together some of the aircraft that actually flew during the Summer of 1940 during both the The Battle of France and The Battle of Britain campaigns; the captions on the photos describe where they were used.

    All exhibits have an interesting history. For example, the first Supermarine Spitfire Mk I (G-CFGJ) is the only airworthy aircraft in this IMW collection; it was issued to RAF Duxford in April 1940 flown by Squadron Leader Geoffrey Stephenson and was shot down in late May 1940 onto a beach near Calais - the remains were rediscovered in the 1980s; it returned to flight in 2014 and was then gifted to IWM Duxford. In addition, the Hispano Buchon was a Spanish license-built version of the Messerschmitt Bf 109 fighter - it featured in the film "Dunkirk" and the TV series "SAS Rogue Heroes". Furthermore, the MG Midget TA (GPC 671) car is of interest because it was registered to Douglas Bader who led the five-squadron "Big-Wing" from RAF Duxford in Sept 1940; Bader owned it until 1946, and is now in private ownership.

    Another interesting exhibition at IWM Duxford.
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  • Tamil Nadu; Mahabalipuram

    2025年2月8日, インド ⋅ ⛅ 29 °C

    Our train arrives in Chennai at 6:45 am, having left Mysore at 8 pm yesterday evening; it stopped at many places, including Bangalore. It was a second-class sleeper and a long night. From Chennai, we travel south along the shores to Mahabalipuram on the Bay of Bengal, stopping off for a well-deserved dosa breakfast.

    Mahabalipuram, also known as Mamallapuram, was once a major port built in the 7th century by Mamalla, a Pallavas king; it is a UNESCO World Heritage Site due to masterful rock carvings from that time - these still exist today. The area is a boulder strewn landscape, and these were used for the rock carvings

    We visit Panch Rathas (Five Rathas - a Ratha is a processional chariot), a 7th century complex of monolithic rock shrines to honour the five Pandara brothers (see captions on photos for details).

    Next, we visit the Shore Temple; dedicated to Vishnu. It was built by Mamalla on a promontory by the sea; it used to be accessed by the beach, but the 2004 tsunami led to the building of walkway access. There is also a smaller shrine dedicated to Shiva that was added later.

    We then go to Arjuna's Penance, aka The Descent of the Ganges, a celebrated bas-relief carved on an immense rock with a natural vertical cleft symbolising the River Ganges; the story depicts the Sacerd River's descent from the sky, made possible by the penance of the sage Arjuna (Bhagirata).

    There are other smaller temples, monuments, and cave-temples in the area around Arjuna's Penance, and we walk around to see these.

    Later on in the evening, we walk down into Mahabalipuram to the Santana Fish Restaurant by the beach for our farewell dinner. Helen and I shared a fish curry, grilled fish with French fries, and washed it down with some British Empire beer.

    It's been a fantastic trip.
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  • Mysore 2; Chamundi Hill / Mysuru Palace

    2025年2月7日, インド ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    We drive 13 km to the eastern outskirts of Mysore to the Chamundi Hill; at the top of the 335m high hill is the Hindu Chamundeshwari Temple dedicated to the Goddess Chamundeshwari (Durga), the patron Saint of the people and kings of Mysuru - she slayed the Demon King Mahishasura, the ruler of the hill.

    The hill can be accessed by a 1,000 step ascent, but this is done by devotees only who pat each step with a mix of red and yellow spices . We drive to the top and do a few only! We see the Temple (only Hindus can go inside) and are fortunate to see part of a festival as it leaves the Temple (good planning by our guide, Jojan).

    Later on, we return to the Mysuru Palace, also known as the Amba Vilas Palace, to see it in the daylight (there are seven palaces in Mysore); it was originally built and rebuilt (it was wooden) by the Wodeyars Dynasty, inside an old fort, but kept burning down - the current structure was constructed between 1897 and 1912 and designed by Henry Irving with a mix of architectural styles, after the Old Palace burnt down. It is the second most visited tourist attraction in India, after the Taj Mahal.

    We go in and follow the route through the downstairs interior, including the beautiful Pulblic Durbar Hall, and up to the seating gallery and the Private Durbar Hall. It is magnificent, with exquisite carvings and works of art from all over the world.

    We have some downtime in the hotel lobby before going to dinner. Then it's all aboard the Mysore to Chennai overnight train.....
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  • Mysore 1; Centre / Mysuru Palace (night)

    2025年2月6日, インド ⋅ ☀️ 30 °C

    Mysore is known as the City of Palaces and is the cultural capital of Karnataka; situated at the foothills of Chamundi, it was the centre of the Kingdom of Mysore from 1399 to 1947. It is now the second most populated city in Karnataka (1.3 million).

    We arrive in Mysore (Mysuru) soon after midday and visit the Deveraja Market: the Dufferin Clock Tower stands in the square outside the market's entrance. The market was constructed above the Dewan Poirnaiala Canal that supplied water to the Mysore Palace; it is bounded by walls on all four sides and has three main aisles within. There are many fruit, vegetable, flower, and spice stalls, both inside the covered market and outside. We see these and walk around the surrounding area.

    In the evening, we visit Mysuru Palace to attend the Sound and Light Show, depicting and describing the 400-year history of Mysuru City and Mysuru Palace (we visit the Palace properly tomorrow). The buildings are illuminated in coordination with the sounds and music, and there is a lovely light show at the end.

    A full day.
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  • Karnataka; Bandipur Tiger Reserve

    2025年2月5日, インド ⋅ 🌙 15 °C

    Bandipur National Park is also known as Bandipur Tiger Reserve (a special name to reflect this status, as there are tigers here) and the area was once the hunting ground of the Maharajahs of Mysuru (now Mysore); it became known as the Venugopala Wildlife Park in the 1930s and became part of the Tiger Project in 1983. It has an area of 874 sq km.

    We leave our accommodation in the park at 5:40 am to be in time to transfer to the Forest Safari Transport outside the park for the dawn safari back in the park!. We travel offf piste see some wonderful animals, including the Indian Elephant and, very fortunately, a Bengal Tiger!! Others included Spotted Deer, Peacock, Mongoose, Painted Stork.

    Then it's back for a late breakfast. Helen and I have a walk up to see a small local community close to the accommodation and en route to Mangala Village before it gets too hot. Then, it's back for RnR, followed by lunch.

    Later in the afternoon, we leave at 4 pm for the afternoon safari. We see more Indian Elephants, as well as Spotted Deer, Langur Monkeys, Turtle. An animal we saw yesterday, but not today, was the Indian Gaur. A short while after we get back, it's dinner.

    In the morning, before breakfast, we go on a local nature walk close to the accommodation led by a guide; it is a great way to start the day, and surprisingly chilly at the start (7:15 am).
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  • Ooty (short for Udhagamandalam)

    2025年2月4日, インド ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    We walk into Ooty from the railway station. Ooty was known as the Queen of the Hill Stations and as "Snooty Ooty" because officials from the British East India Company came to rule from here in the 18th century to escape the lowland heat.

    We have a walk round, but the main focus is to visit the Government Botanical Gardens, occupying 64 hectares in a terraced layout on the lower slopes of the Doddabetta peak; they are extremely attractive; see captions on photos for details.

    We leave Ooty and drive towards Bandipur National Park (in the state of Karnataka) via the Mudumalai National Park (still in Tamil Nadu); the two parks border one another via the same forest and the two states are separated by a bridge over a small river. We do see some wild animals en route.

    We check into our lodge style accommodation near Mangala village in the Bandipur National Park and watch Sir David Attenborough's "Wild Karnataka" natual history programme (2019) before a late buffet meal.
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  • Nilgiri Hills; Coonoor to Ooty by train

    2025年2月4日, インド ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    We leave the hotel early (7:15am) to travel to Coonoor in the Nilgiri Hills. It is a spectacular drive, with many sharp hairpin turns, as we ascend the Western Ghats towards Coonoor (1,700m). Coonoor is a hill station known for its tea estates and coffee plantations.

    From Coonoor, we take the Nilgiri Mountain Railway to Ooty (another hill station); it was built by the British in the 19th century to negotiate the difficult mountain terrain and dense green forest between the two hill stations (the original train line from Mettupalayam ended at Coonoor). There are many fabulous views as we take this scenic journey to Ooty, rising from 1,700m to 2,200m above sea level and a travelling distance of 12 miles (see captions on photos for details).

    We get off at Ooty (see next post).
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  • Palakkad Fort / Tamil Nadu; Coimbatore

    2025年2月3日, インド ⋅ ☀️ 30 °C

    We leave Kochi and head north, eventually taking a tunnel through the Western Ghats; this mountain range stretches 1,600 km along the western coast of India from Kerala to Gujarat.

    We reach the town of Palakkad and visit Palakkad Fort; this was built in the 18th century from granite and is one of the best preserved forts in Kerala.

    We carry on into Tamil Nadu towards Combiatore, the third largest city in the state, and a convenient base or stop-off for visiting the Nilgiri Hills (where we go tomorrow). We have a short tour of the market area before heading off to our hotel.
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  • Kochi 3; Kathakali dance / Boat trip

    2025年2月2日, インド ⋅ ⛅ 31 °C

    Some of the group go to the optional Khatakali dance performance, a "story-play" that is said to be the very essence of Kochi; the concept is almost 400 years old, and melds dance, drama and music (both vocal and instrumental). We will see only a short extract, as the real thing goes on all day!

    The actor dancers are all male; there is no speaking, just symbolic hand gestures, eye movements, and face movements. Music is supplied by a vocalist marking the beat with a chengi (small gong) and rwo percussionists with drums.

    Our show comprised watching make-up being applied in part (this can be a 3 hour process, as heavily empasised features are created).

    We see a short extract from the Narakasura Vadhan in which Nakrathundi, the demon sister of the demon Narakasura, reaches heaven to kidnap beautiful women for her brother. Unfortunately, she falls in love with Jaynatan (green face) there and disguises herself as Lalitha (yellow face). Lalitha flirts with Jaynathan but is rejected, so she reverts to Nakrathundi (fangs, different hair) to battle with him; she loses, and he cuts off her breasts, nose and ears.

    The half-hour performance was really good with excellent singing and drumming; the facial expressions and eye movements were amazing to see.

    Later, we all set off on a boat trip at 4:30 pm from Fort Kochi to see the harbour area and some of the surrounding islands; this was really good and pleasant after a hot day (see captions on photos for details); we are very fortunate and see some interesting things.

    Then it's dinner! A full day.
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  • Kochi 2; Mattancherry

    2025年2月2日, インド ⋅ ⛅ 30 °C

    Mattancherry forms the other part of Kochi Old Town and contains both the Mattancherry Palace and the Jewish Quarter.

    Mattancherry Palace is a colonial gem and was built by the Portuguese in the 16th century and given to the ruler of Cochin as a gesture of goodwill. It later underwent extensive renovation by the Dutch and became known as the Dutch Palace. The two storied, quadrilateral structure is built around a courtyard and is today a museum with murals depicting scenes from the Ramayana and other legends. In the so-called Dunbar Rooms, hang portraits of the Kerala rulers. An interesting visit.

    We walk up the road to the Jewish Quarter; it is home to many antique warehouses and spice rooms, which we see on our way to the Paradesi Synagogue, India's oldest active Synagogue The first Jews in India settled in the 1st century at Shingly, but persecution by the Portuguese in the 16th century made them move to Cochin, dividing into two groups, the Malabari Jews (black, descended from the original settlers) and the Paradesim Jews (white, who came from the Middle East). In 1940, there were 2,400 Jews here, but now only a few families remain. The Paradesi Synagogue has a tiled roof and a Clock Tower and was rebuilt with Dutch help in 1664 - there are many treasures here.

    Afterwards, we go to the interesting Ginger House Restaurant for lunch.
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  • Kochi 1; Fort Kochi

    2025年2月1日, インド ⋅ ☀️ 30 °C

    After the short walk in Alappuzha, we set off in the minibus for Kochi, stopping off to see some of a festival at a small Hindu Temple en route. Later, we stop again to visit Chellanham, a fishing village and suburb of Kerala; it is interesting to see their colourful fishing nets being repaired and the quirky church in the form of a fishing boat.

    We reach Kochi (formerly Cochin); the city is built around a saltwater lagoon of the Arabian Sea and is actually a collection of narrow islands and peninsulars. It has a beautiful natural harbour and was originally founded on trade from the Jewish and Arabian Spice Traders in the 1st century. It grew in importance in the 16th century with the arrival of the Portuguese, then Dutch,and then English; it has an eclectic heritage.

    Kochi City is divided into 3 main regions; Fort Kochi, Mattancherry (both have old-world charm, with a blend of Dutch, Portuguese, and English buildings and form the Old Town), and the modern Ernakulam (shopping malls and glitzy apartment buildings). We focus on the first two, apparently!

    This afternoon, we visit Fort Kochi; we enjoy lunch at the Fort Paragon restaurant before exploring the area with our guide - see captions on photos for details. Of particular interest is the Chinese style of fishing; they are fixed installations operated from on or near the shore, with nets set up on bamboo and teak poles and held horizontally by huge mechanisms, which lower them into the sea.

    Our hotel is on Willington Island, a man-made island using soil dredged from the long Vembanad Lake (the other end is Alappuzha, see previous post - Vembanad Lake is the longest in India); it is home for the port of Kochi and the Naval Base, as well as many other port related trusts. After some downtime, Helen and I pop into the Maruthi Vilas Vegetarian restaurant near the hotel.
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  • Kerala Backwaters Tour from Alappuzha

    2025年1月31日, インド ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C

    We set off after breakfast from Thekkady and stop off at a tea plantation in Pattumaly on our way to the town of Alappuzha (aka Alleppey) in the Kerala Backwaters; we are going to an area of low-lying waterways, lagoons, and rivers running parallel to the Arabian Sea.

    We board our Gold River Houseboat, a converted rice barge, just after 1pm and head via waterways to Vembanad Lake; we cross the bottom most tip of this to the other side and circle round more waterways and then double back the other end of the long, narrow Vembanad Lake is at Kochi). We catch glimpses of the local lifestyle, seeing houses that back directly onto the waterways.

    We moor at about 6 pm, and then have a short walk locally, visiting a banana chip manufacturer and a coconut milk supplier. We return to the houseboats (there are two for the group) and eat together on the larger one, enjoying a splendid meal. There has been a lot of sitting around today, which is very tiring, but it's been another good one.

    During and after breakfast on the houseboat, we do another short trip back to the Alappuzha "harbour", visit a tourist shop, and have a short walk before travelling to Kochi.
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