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Andrew's Travels
Andrew's Travels

Andrew's Travels

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  • Andrew's TravelsRomaniaTraveler
    Sucevita to Putna hike, part of Via Transilvanica; Warning signs en route
    Forest trail view back, shortly after the startEvidence of logging!Via Transilvanica; the blue cross, and the circled T are waymarkers / km sign postToadstool1Bird / animal hideLogging activityLogging activityPutna Monastery; the hill where Stephen fired his arrow to mark the site of the churchEntrance gateView of the church through the gateTowerThe museum; image of Stephen the GreatView of the churchInside the churchMonk inside the churchInside the church; the Tomb of Stephen the GreatThe navePork knuckle with beetroot and horseradish

    Moldavia 2; Sucevita-Putna hike, Putna

    September 16, 2025 in Romania ⋅ ☀️ 13 °C

    After breakfast, we are dropped off at the starting point for our walk from Sucevita to Putna via forestry paths in a valley to the north of Sucevita. Our route follows part of the Via Transilvanica Trail, a long-distance walking route crossing Romania. We follow a forest trail, then have some ascent and descent, before following a grassy valley to Putna, a village close to the Ukrainian border. It is a lovely 9-mile walk with some interesting views en route (see photos and captions).

    We visit Putna Monastery, one of Romania's most important working monasteries; it is significant because it contains the Tomb of Stephen the Great. The Monastery was founded in 1466 and is the oldest remaining in Moldavia.

    We then drive for over 3 hours to Bacau, where we stop off overnight en route to Tulcea on the Danube Delta.

    There is time for a bite to eat.    Read more

  • Andrew's TravelsRomaniaTraveler
    Moldovita Monastery; view on entry - the Eastern wall is weathered
    The monastery occupies a fortified enclosure with towersClose ups of exterior frescoesFresco depicts the Siege of ConstantinopleInsideThe naveNuns on the site (a convent)Part of the fortified enclosureSucevita Monastery; entrance / tower on the cornerView on entryThe Ladder of Virtue fresco, with 32 steps to Heaven (zoom in) / Heaven frescoDetail on the northern wallFresco depicts the story of Moses' lifeInside the monasteryThe naveThe western wall is bare; legend says that the fatal plunge of the artist means that it is cursedView of the walls inside the monasteryChurch and courtyardEaster egg painting, a local Moldavian traditionDinner; mushroom roulade / rolled chicken thigh with mashed potatoes / black forest gateau

    Moldavia 1; The Painted Monasteries

    September 15, 2025 in Romania ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    We enter the Moldavia region of Romania and the Eastern Carpathians; we are in the southern Bucovina sub region - what would now have been the northern Bucovina sub region has been the Republic of Moldova since the end of WWII.

    There are 8 UNESCO World Heritage Site Monasteries in Bucovina ("The painted churches of Moldavia"); they are Byzantine Orthodox in style and noted for the external biblical frescoes (as well as the internal ones) which were used to educate the medieval population. The monasteries were founded during the reign of Prince Stephen the Great (1457-1504); Stefan cel Mare, a 15th-century Moldavian Prince,i s a national hero due to his epic battles with the Ottoman Empire in order to preserve the regions culturalidentity. We visit two of the five main Painted Monasteries; Moldovita and Sucevita.

    Our first one is the Moldovita Monastery, actually a convent. It was founded as a protective barrier against the Muslim Ottoman conquerors from the East.
    The second is the Sucevita Monastery, the largest of the monasteries in the region with massive towers and stone towers. See captions on photos for details.

    Between visiting the two painted monasteries, we stop off to see a local tradition; Easter egg painting. Duck and goose eggs (also ostrich and emu eggs) are emptied. Beeswax is used to protect parts not to be coloured before dipping into a natural yellow dye, and the process is repeated with other natural dyes. The results are amazing.

    After checking in at our accommodation, we enjoy a lovely meal.    Read more

  • Andrew's TravelsRomaniaTraveler
    Viseu de Sus; The Mocanita
    Vans and cars modified for use on the line are on displayOur steam-powered train uses timber for fuelView en routeOn the trainOur train from a windowOur drop-off point enables a view of the complete train as it moves awayMaramures Mountain hike; logs along the valleyWe had to remove our walking shows to cross the river!Animals seen along the forested pathView down from the steep ascentThis is what a bear did in the woods the day before!Our packed lunch stop at the top of the ascentView back to the Maramures MountainsAnother view from the meadow part of the hike back to the Maramures MountainsThe meadow areaView across to the Rodna Mountains; our hotel is at the base of the ski slope seen in the distanceView down to the town of MoiseiHouse with wood for the winterCrossing the riverEnd of Maramures Mountains hike; A church in MoiseiSki Chairlift; views down and up!Rodna Mountains hike; the ascentViews on the ridge walk when the clouds liftEnd of Rodna Mountains hike; View across to the Maramures Mountains

    Maramures 2; Mountain hikes

    Sep 14–15, 2025 in Romania ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    For the Maramures Mountains hike, we drive from the ski complex area to Viseu de Sus at the end of the Vaser Valley and the starting point for Europe's last operational steam-powered forest trains, the Mocanita. The line was built in 1933 to transport timber from the valley to the sawmills in the town. The trains still operate, but mainly for the benefit of travellers. We take the train through the beech and spruce forests as far as Novat to start our hike (only 6 from the group opt for this).

    We walk along a forested valley for an hour before starting a steep ascent along logging tracks - hard work. We eventually reach a ridge and stop for our packed lunch before descending via meadows to a turning off to walk down a steeper path down to the small town of Mosei. Here, our Explore tour guide, Horea, treats us to a beer while we wait for the tour bus to pick us up. It's been a 10-mile hike in the Maramures Mountains, with over 500 metres of ascent from our starting point at Novat (itself 650 metres above sea level).

    We enjoy an included meal of beef stew followed by pork with rice at the hotel after a much deserved shower. We have been lucky with the weather today.

    Our second hike on the following day is into the Rodna Mountains. We take the ski chairlift close to our hotel and then continue with the ascent to join a ridge followed by a long mild descent to meet the bus; it is a shorter walk at 3 miles, with 200m ascent and 1200m descent, and less clement weather than yesterday at the start (it did improve) - the walk was still enjoyable.

    It is then a short drive to enter the region of Moldavia.    Read more

  • Andrew's TravelsRomaniaTraveler
    Welcome to Maramures; wooden gate structures are traditional entry points to villages etc
    Coffee stop; inside were stained glass indications of the traditional lifestyle in MaramuresBogdan; Church of St NicholasViews inside the church (through the tiny window slots)Statue of Bogdan, the first ruler of MoldaviaAn example of the "Tree of the Housewife", an old tradition relating to the ladies of the houseBarsana Monastery; entranceThe ChurchInside the church1View of the Barsana Monastery siteA nunViews of the siteSapanta; Traditional washing machine by the river / weaving a blanketA traditional meal in a traditional house; chiftele (meatballs) with veg stew/ dobos cake and coffeeThe room for entertaining guests; traditionally called the "good room"2Two members of the Explore group in local marriage clothesSapanta; The Merry Cemetery - the ChurchInside the church; nave / ceilingA young married couple (look familiar?)The rear view of the churchThe Tomb of the Merry Cemetery founder, Ioan Stan PatrasThe front and rear of a tombGeneral view of the cemeteryTypical countryside view in east Maramures

    Maramures 1; Barsana and Sapanta

    September 13, 2025 in Romania ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    As we drive through Northern Transylvania toward the Maramures Region, we see many orchards, mainly apples for eating and making apple brandy (they are not used for cider).

    The Maramures Region of Romania is in the northwest of the country and home to Europe's last remaining peasant culture; this includes wooden churches, traditional village lifestyles, and traditional clothing. The region is 70-80% forest and mainly hills; wood is the main resource here. We stop off at Bogdan en route to Barsana to see the wooden Church of St. Nicholas.

    Although there was a monastery on the hillside site in Barsana many centuries ago, it fell into disrepair, and the new monastery (actually a convent) was established in 1993; it is very beautiful.

    From Barsana, we travel west through Sighetu Marmatiei (which has a Jewish history) along the border with Ukraine, formed by the River Tisa, to Sapanta. Here, we enjoy a traditional meal at a house before going to the UNESCO World Heritage Site of the Merry Cemetery, which, unlike other cemeteries, seems to celebrate life; each gravestone features a humorous caricature and a short poem about the deceased. It was started by the folk artist Ioan Stan Patras in the 1930s, and the tombstones are hand-carved from oak and painted in the traditional colour of hope. It is a very colourful and interesting site.

    From here, we drive east along part of the route we travelled to get to Sapanta and on to Borsa in the eastern part of Maramures; this town is located at the foot of the Rodna Mountains and known for being a good ski resort in the winter season - we are staying outside the town, at the complex in the ski resort area.    Read more

  • Andrew's TravelsRomaniaTraveler
    Brasov; Catherine's Gate; once the main entrance to the walled city
    Schei GateView of the Old Town fortifications and the Black Church behind1Rope Street, 1.2 meters wideThe Black ChurchStatue of Johannes Honterus outside the Black ChurchInside the Black Church; nave / organThe Altar / The PulpitThe Nativity Mural; a fresco of the Virgin Mary, Baby Jesus, and two SaintsPersian rugs hang inside the churchMain Square; Council House, now a museumMain Square; view towards the Black Tower, a WatchtowerChurch of Holy TrinityStreet sceneSighisoara; The Tailor's Tower, on the Western flank of the Citadel and the main entranceView up to the Church on the HillThe Church on the HillGerman CemeteryLunch - langos, a doughnut base with pizza toppings / town centre street sceneThe Clock Tower, the symbol of the cityView from behindView back to the Tinsmith's TowerThe Roman Catholic Church, 19th centuryBootmaker's Tower, the northern flank of the CitadelFurrier's Tower / Butcher's Tower

    Transylvania 3; Brasov and Sighisoara

    September 12, 2025 in Romania ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    We drive to Brasov; this town has a population of 250,000 and is Romania's second most visited place, after Bucharest. It owes its existence to Teutonic Knights, who established a town in 1211, and it grew into a German colony named Kronstadt; the Saxons added churches and a medieval town wall in the Middle Ages to make it a fortified city. The main attraction is the Black Church, named for its charred appearance following the Great Fire of 1689. We explore the town in the rain (see captions on photos for details) before leaving for Sighisoara.

    Sighisoara was established by the Saxons who built a magnificent fortess town that is now a UNESCO-protected Citadel. It was a booming commercial centre in the Middle Ages, supporting many guilds; these have towers around the city bastions that honour them. Sighisoara is also allegedly the birthplace of Vlad the Impaler. We walk up to the towering medieval citadel and explore it (see captions on photos for details).

    We then drive to our next overnight accommodation in Bistrita in northern Transylvania.    Read more

  • Andrew's TravelsRomaniaTraveler
    Casa Zada Guest House
    View of MoieciuShepherd's hutView of Carpathian MountainsViewView of Carpathian MountainsCowsChickensHay stacked in a traditional local way around a frameCiorba (vegetable soup)Sarmala (stuffed cabbage leaves), mamaliga (polenta), varza myrata (sauerkraut)

    Transylvania 2; Moieciu

    September 11, 2025 in Romania ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    We arrive at our group guest house in the town of Moieciu for the evening, and most of us set off on a local walk led by our Explore group leader, Horea. The walk is used by local shepherds to reach their animals higher up on the surrounding hills.

    It is a steep ascent through woods initially, but we eventually reach the top and enjoy good views. We descend by another less steep path and then have a short road walk to get back to the guest house. It has been an interesting 5 km walk, taking longer than expected for this distance.

    After a quick turnaround, it's dinner at 7:30 pm; a traditional meal with an apple palinka aperitif first, and then lots of local red wine to go with the delicious food (see photo captions).

    It has been a very full first day!    Read more

  • Andrew's TravelsRomaniaTraveler
    Dinner last night; Pastrama and mamaliga
    Peles CastleStatue of King Carol IStatue of his wife, Queen ElizabethPelisor PalacePelisor PalaceDining RoomTea RoomDoor with Lilac EmblemThe Gold RoomElizabeth RoomSteinway PianoBran CastleEntranceVlad the Impaler family lineHidden staircaseView in CastleThe origins of Count DraculaVlad the ImpalerNosferatuCount Dracula cloakMummyView in CastleThe Explore Group

    Transylvania 1; Peles and Bran Castles

    September 11, 2025 in Romania ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    We left home early yesterday and spent most of the day travelling to Bucharest, the capital of Romania.

    Romania became an Eastern Bloc country after WWII but is now a member of the EC. It has a population of 19 million, of which 89% are Romanian, 5% Hungarian, 4% Roma and 1% Muslim; it is 86% Christian. The country comprises 1/3 mountains, 1/3 hillside, and 1/3 plains and grows a wide range of grain, fruit, and vegetables, as well as having vineyards and good wines (not well known outside of the country, though).

    After arriving at our hotel, it's a very quick turnaround to go out for dinner; I enjoy local beers with a traditional Romanian pastrama mutton dish, mamaliga (corn meal polenta and sour cheese) and some veg (mainly gherkins) - nicer than it sounds!

    Early next morning, we leave northern Bucharest and drive across the flat countryside of the Wallachia Region towards the Gateway Town to Translvania; Sinaia. Sinaia is named after Mount Sinai and stated out as a monastery before developing into an expensive and desirable town. Here, we visit Peles and Pelisor Castles. Peles Castle was commissioned by Romania's first king, Carol I, in 1873. A little uphill from it is another Royal residence, Pelisor Palace, built from 1899 to 1902 for the heirs to the Romanian throne, Ferdinand and Marie. See captions on photos for details.

    We then cross the Carpathian Mountains further into the Transylvania Region to visit the town of Bran and Bran Castle; this was once home to Queen Marie of Romania, a granddaughter of Queen Victoria. There is no connection between the castle and Bram Stoker's novel, Dracula, but it is now a major tourist attraction regarding the vampire (see photos). It is a great place to visit.

    Afterwards, we travel to the town of Moieciu.    Read more

  • Andrew's TravelsDerbyshire; The Monsal TrailTraveler
    View down to Wyedale from the Chee Dale ascent
    Cows and sheep viewed en route to WormhillViews across meadows leaving WormhillMonk's Dale; in the woodsMonk's Dale; in the woodsMonk's DaleMonk's Dale after the rocky section in the woodsMiller's Dale Railway Station on the Monsal TrailLime kilns on the Monsal TrailOn the Monsal TrailChee Tor tunnel no. 1 / Chee Tor tunnel no. 2 nextView down from one of the bridgesLimestone cliffs along the valleyRusher Cutting tunnelView on the Monsal TrailThe end of the Monsal Trail at Topley Rise JunctionWyedale; on the way back to the car park

    Monk's Dale and end of the Monsal Trail

    August 9, 2025 in England ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    We drive to Wyedale car park for the final walk (8) of the Monsal Trail booklet to complete it at its end (Topley Rise Junction).

    We walk back along Wyedale and turn off to follow the Pennine Bridleway (PBW) up to the ancient village of Wormhill, zigzagging up the side of the steep Chee Dale valley towards Mosley Farm; from here, we cross meadows and leave the PBW and then cross fields towards Hassop Farm and on to Wormhill. We skirt the village and then walk via bridleways and tracks up to a footpath that takes us down to Monk's Dale, which heads south on the east of Wormhill, down to the Monsal Trail.

    Monk's Dale is one of the five valleys in the Derbyshire Dales National Park; the valley is dry over the summer, but it has a winterbourne stream that runs into the River Wye at Miller's Dale. The footpath along the valley is challenging rough terrain for walkers, comprising slippery limestone rocks in a wood. We make it and eventually emerge from the rocks and trees to the more open part of the Dale and walk down to Miller's Dale Railway Station to walk the final part of the Monsal Trail to its end.

    We pass an old lime kiln as we walk along the valley, with steep crags and the slopes of Chee Dale around us. We reach the Chee Tor tunnels (401 and 94 yards long, respectively) constructed to allow the Midland Railway to skirt the base of Chee Tor. We eventually reach Topley Rise Junction and the end of the Monsal Trail before returning to the car. It's been a good and interesting 10 mile walk!    Read more

  • Andrew's TravelsDerbyshire; The Monsal TrailTraveler
    Little Longstone; Congregational Church
    Great Longstone; St Giles ChurchEn route to RowlandToll Bar House, close to the Monsal TrailThe Monsal TrailThe former Great Longstone StationEntering the Headstone TunnelInside the tunnelLeaving the tunnelThe Headstone ViaductMonsal DaleMonsal DaleBrushfield Hough Farm; at the top of the ascent from Monsal DaleLeaving the farmView towards Monsal DaleView towards Upper DaleViews of the River Wye from the top of Headstone ViaductView from Monsal Head

    Monsal Head, Monsal Trail, Monsal Dale

    August 8, 2025 in England ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C

    We continue with our walks on and around the Monsal Trail with two shorter circular walks starting from Monsal Head Car Park.

    The second walk, walk 4 from the booklet and described first for clarity, goes out via Little Longstone towards Grsat Longstone and then across many fields and stiles up to Rowland, before heading south via the outskirts of Hassop Park towards the Monsal Trail. Here, we walk west, passing the old Great Longstone railway station (closed in 1962) to walk through the Headstone Tunnel (535 yards long), before the steep ascent back up to Monsal Head Car Park.

    The first walk, walk 5 from the booklet, also starts from Monsal Head, where there are excellent views of the Headstone Viaduct, one of the most famous parts of the Monsal Trail, and then takes us down to Monsal Dale beside the River Wye. We follow the Trail and then take a steep ascent via woodland to Brushfield Hough Farm. From here, there are good views as we walk along the upper Dale to pass the remains of former lead mine workings before descending to join the Monsal Trail and cross the top of Headstone Viaduct back to the tunnel and the steep ascent back up to Monsal Head again.

    It's been about 9.5 miles in total in good walking weather; warm, but not hot.    Read more

  • Andrew's TravelsDerbyshire; The Monsal TrailTraveler
    The front of Bakewell Station
    Manners WoodView en route to EdensorEdensor; St Peter’s ChurchEdensorChatsworth HouseChatsworth HouseChatsworth HouseThe rear of Bakewell StationThe MannersA healthy meal 😋

    Bakewell Station and Chatsworth Park

    August 7, 2025 in England ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    Our walk today is Walk 1 from the Monsal Trail booklet. We start from Bakewell Station but walk away from the Monsal Trail and up towards Manners Wood; this marks the boundary between the estates of the Dukes of Devonshire and Rutland (so we cross from the Haddon Estate into Chatsworth Park).

    It is a steep ascent through the woods, but there are good views as we head down to Edensor village; much of this is privately owned by the Dukes of Devonshire (the Cavendish family), and we pass St Peter’s Church to go through the entrance gates to the village and on to the footpath towards Chatsworth House. We have visited this previously, and do not visit on this occasion.

    At Chatsworth Bridge, we follow the footpath across Chatsworth Park by the River Derwent; the gardens of Chatsworth House were designed by Capability Brown in 1762. We eventually reach the Chatsworth Garden Centre, where we head west across meadows back towards Bakewell via a steep descent this time through the Manners Wood. We join the Monsal Trail and walk up towards Bakewell Station, where we end our interesting 7.5-mile walk and head back to our accommodation.

    Later on, we went to The Manners for dinner and Robinsons beer!    Read more

  • Andrew's TravelsDerbyshire; The Monsal TrailTraveler
    Coombs Road Viaduct; the top is the start of the walkable part of the Monsal Trail
    Haddon HallThe CourtyardMain HallThe Chapel of St NicholasInside the chapel; stained glass window / detail of reredos (rood screen)Inside the chapel; wall muralsThe kitchen areaMain hallView of the Walled GardenTapestryThe Long GalleryThe symbols of Lord and Lady Manners are the peacock and the boarView of the rear of Haddon Hall from the gardenView out onto the groundsView of Haddon Hall from the Haddon Fields, as we continue our walkLathkill DaleOver Haddon village

    The start of the trail and Haddon Hall

    August 6, 2025 in England ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

    Our walk today is based on walk 2 from our Monsal Trail booklet; Bakewell to Haddon Hall, and back via the River Lathkill.

    We walk up to join the Monsal Trail from Bakewell and walk along it south to the Coombs Road Viaduct (the start of the Monsal Trail) where we descend it to follow the footpaths to Haddon Hall, which we stop at to visit.

    Haddon Hall is over 900 years old and one of the UK’s most elegant and timeless stately homes; it has remained in one family's ownership for its entire existence, although it was unoccupied at one point for over 200 years! Home to Lord and Lady Manners, Haddon Hall has fine Todor and Elizabethan architecture, with a beautiful walled Elizabethan garden and surrounded by medieval parkland. We have a very interesting visit; see captions on photos for details.

    After our visit, continue west along a bridleway towards Haddon Fields before following our route via Conksbury Bridge and along part of the beautiful Lathkill Dale towards Over Haddon. We then have a steep ascent before heading across fields back to Bakewell; it's been over 8 miles today, but a great day out.    Read more

  • Andrew's TravelsDerbyshire; The Monsal TrailTraveler
    Tideswell Dale
    Litton MillMiller's Dale; limestone cliffs on the other side of the River WyeCressbrook MillWater-cum-Jolly DaleCressbrook MillCressbrook HallView back from the heights down to the Monsal TrailView back from the heightsLitton MillViaduct over the Monsal TrailAlong the Monsal TrailEn route back to the car parkDerelict farm buildingsThornbridge Brewery Tap RoomInsideInsideServing areaBeersPizza

    Miller's Dale Valley from Tideswell

    August 5, 2025 in England ⋅ 🌬 14 °C

    We drive to Tideswell Dale Car Park to do most of Walk 6 and a little of Walk 7 from our Monsal Trail booklet; the circular covers Tideswell Dale, Litton Mill, along Miller's Dale valley to Cressbrook Mill, along the heights on the other side to descend to the Monsal Trail, on to Miller's Dale Village, and back to Tideswell Dale.

    We walk down the attractive Tideswell Dale to pass through Litton Mill - formerly a textile mill, but now living spaces - to follow the Miller's Dale valley along the River Wye; there are lovely views of the limestone cliffs on the other side of the river. We reach Cressbrook Mill, another former textile mill situated at Water-cum-Jolly Dale, now a small village. We cross the river here and walk towards the Monsal Trail, but don't take this as our route is via high-level footpath; there are fine views of Cressbrook House, a historic Grade II listed country house on the Grand Tudor style.

    We eventually descend to the Monsal Trail and follow the former railway route, the Walk 7 part, as far as a turnoff for Miller's Dale village. From here, it's up to Meadow Farm and back to the car park; a good 7.2-mile walk.

    In the evening, we visit the Thornbridge Brewery tap room for pizza and beers; a great way to end the day!    Read more

  • Andrew's TravelsDerbyshire; The Peak DistrictTraveler
    The Town End Well Dressing
    DetailThe Small Dale Well DressingDetailThe Church End Well DressingDetailThe Hills Well DressingDetail

    Bradwell; Well Dressing

    August 5, 2025 in England ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    We drive to the village of Bradwell to see the well dressings that are there.

    Well Dressing is an ancient custom that is peculiar to Derbyshire and the Peak District; they are highly decorative items created to place near wells or springs as a thanksgiving for the water It happens in this area because of the limestone here; the porous rock has eroded over the years and rainfall is quickly lost underground - thus access to this water via spings and wells became essential to the agricultural villages economies of the past. About 80 towns and villages in the area have Well Dressings from May to September each year. Colour is added to a design from natural sources, such as bark, flowers, and petals.

    We see the Bradwell Well Dressings at Town End, Small Dale, Church End, and The Hills. They are all very beautiful.    Read more

  • Andrew's TravelsDerbyshire; The Peak DistrictTraveler
    Bakewell Old House Museum
    The tithe collector at his deskFarming implementsCooking areaWashing areaLoomView of All Saints Church from the Old House MuseumAll Saints Church; lychgate entranceView of the churchOld Saxon crosses in the church groundsChurch porch: medieval and saxon cross fragments / ancient stone coffinsInside the churchInside the churchThe two funeral chapels in the Bakewell cemetery area (away from All Saints Church)Bakewell Town; War Memorial and the Rutland Arms HotelStreet sceneBakewell pudding shopsBakewell's ancient road bridge

    Bakewell; Town

    August 4, 2025 in England ⋅ 🌧 19 °C

    Bad weather and rain all morning due to Storm Floris in Scotland and the North, so it's a late start; after lunch, we walk into Bakewell.

    Bakewell is a market town and civil parish in the Derbyshire Dales district of the county and the only proper town within the boundaries of the Peak District (it's capital!)

    We visit the market briefly and then go to the Old House Museum; this is a "folk" museum within a Grade II listed Tudor building that was originally built as a tithe house (a tax collector's dwelling) - it was later extended for other dwellings. The museum and exhibits cover the lives of former inhabitants; artefacts within date from the Tudor period onwards, and include ceramics, costumes, and toys. It is quirky and interesting.

    We then visit the All Saints Church; this is noted for its two Saxon Crosses in its grounds (the Beeley Cross and the Bakewell Cross), as well as a selection of medieval / Anglo Saxon cross fragments and ancient stone coffins in the porch.

    From there, we wander around the town before heading back to our accommodation (check photo captions for details).    Read more

  • Andrew's TravelsDerbyshire; The Monsal TrailTraveler
    Holme Bridge, an ancient packhorse bridge
    Bakewell Bridge; an ancient road bridgeBakewell Station; disused as a station now and along the former Midland Railway LineView along the Monsal TrailHassop Railway Station, now a cafeChurchdale Hall; Grade II listedView near the hallAshford in the Water; Village Hall and War MemorialAshford; Church of the Holy TrinityAshford; The Sheepwash Bridge, a 17th century packhorse bridgeAshford; by the River WyeView along the River WyeView along the River WyeWeirView along the River Wye

    Bakewell, Hassop Station, and Ashford

    August 3, 2025 in England ⋅ 🌧 18 °C

    Today, we do a circular walk from Bakewell, based on walk 3 from our Monsal Trail booklet; the Monsal Trail is a popular footpath and cycle way that follows the route of the former Midland Railway Line from Bakewell to Blackwell Mill, near Chee Dale.

    From our accommodation, we take the footpath down to the All Saints Church in Bakewell and join the walking route. We walk out to Holme Bridge and then double back to town via the waterside meadows known as Scott's Garden. We then walk up to the Old Bakewell Station, close to the start of the Monsal Trail, and follow it past Hassop Station, before leaving the trail and descending at a bridge to walk south towards Churchdale Hall and on to Ashford in the Water, a beautiful village located on the River Wye 2 miles north west of Bakewell. We follow the footpath via the River Wye along rolling meadows to get back to Bakewell. It's been a good walk, and we've covered over 7.5 miles (according to the OS app).    Read more

  • Andrew's TravelsDerbyshire; The Peak DistrictTraveler
    Old Hardwick Hall (viewed from "new" Hardwick Hall)
    Old Hardwick Hall; Old Elizabethan plaster friezeOld Hardwick HallClose up of some of the friezesHardwick Hall, viewed from Old Hardwick HallHardwick Hall is one of the finest Elizabethan buildings in the UKAnother view of Hardwick HallInside Hardwick Hall; applique embroidery of noble women and their virtuesApplique embroidery; Penelope flanked by Perseverance and PatienceWall tapestryElizabeth I and Mary, Queen of Scots, surrounded by tapestriesPenelope and UlyssesOne of the 13 Gideon Tapestries in the Long RoomClose up of the Coat of Arms and the Hardwick StagThe Sea Dog Table; the only one of its kind in the UK, and a very important piece of furnitureOne of the bedroomsWall friezeHardwick Hall GardenView back to Hardwick HallThe Old Stables

    Hardwick Hall

    August 2, 2025 in England ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    We're off to Bakewell in the Peak District National Park area of Derbyshire for a week; this is an area we have been to many times in the past.

    En route, we stop off at Hardwick Hall, near Chesterfield in Derbyshire. This is closely associated with the lady that built it; Elizabeth Hardwick, later the Countess of Shrewsbury, and popularly known as Bess of Hardwick. Bess was born in 1527 on the site of "old" Hardwick Hall and rose to a position of great power in Elizabethan society (partly due to four marriages to increasingly rich suitors - Barley, Cavendish, St Loe, Talbot!); she died in 1608.

    We visit Hardwick Old Hall first; it is now a towering roofless shell; built between 1587 and 1596 on a high rocky ridge,, it fell into disrepair after after the death of Bess"s husband, and she started preferring places like Chatsworth House and built the newer and grander Hardwick Hall. The old hall still has some lovely Elizabethan plaster friezes.

    Next to the old hall is the newer Hardwick Hall, one of the finest Elizabethan buildings in the UK, and built by Bess between 1590 and 1597. It is well known own for its rich furnishings, tapestries, and large windows, all of which have been preserved by Bess"s descendants, the Dukes of Cavendish, and now the National Trust.

    It has been an excellent diversion en route to our rented house in Bakewell.    Read more

  • Andrew's TravelsKentTraveler
    Margate Lido, Cliftonville
    Artwork and GraffitiThe Anthony Gormley sculpture (Another Time)Droight HouseThe old Margate LighthouseView across Nayland Rocks to MargateWestbrook; The Sunken GardenBee SculptureApproaching Westgate-on-SeaView back to Westgate PavilionWestgate-on-SeaWestgate-on-SeaBeach hutsCliff face detailEpple BayApproaching BirchingtonMinnis Bay Beach, BirchingtonMinnis Bay; beach huts in five shades of blue

    Viking Trail 2; Margate to Birchington

    June 14, 2025 in England ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    We're visiting Margate again, mainly to go to Dreamland; this time to attend Rewind, a concert featuring artists and bands from the 1980s. We arrived yesterday and had a walk around from our Airbnb at Cliftonville, an area on the north part of the town, seeing the Winter Garden and Old Town again (see earlier posts).

    Today, we continue on the Viking Trail on the Isle of Thanet part of Kent, this time in the opposite direction, from Margate heading west; the Viking Trail is a coastal path that coincides with part of the King Charles III England Coastal Walk.

    We walk down to the harbour area past the Turner Contemporary and Droight House and along Marine Terrace towards Nayland Rock (see previous posts as well!). From here, we carry on past St Mildred's Bay (backing onto Westbrook) and on towards Westgate-on-Sea; we pass here to Epple Bay and then carry on towards Birchington. Minnis Bay used to be one of the limits of the Isle of Thanet as the Wantsum Channel used to extend from here down to Sandwich, separating the island from the mainland; this channel has filled in due to natural silting and land reclamation over the 12 to 16th centuries, and the Isle of Thanet is now part of the UK mainland. It has been a good walk, covering 8.5 miles in pleasant weather; we take the bus back to Margate.

    Then it's Dreamland to see......

    Tiffany / Toyah / T'Pau / Heaven 17 / Nik Kershaw / Midge Ure (ex Ultravox) / Tony Hadley (ex Spandau Ballet)

    It was a fantastic evening for people of a certain age!    Read more

  • Andrew's TravelsThe Chiltern HillsTraveler
    Barton-le-Clay; St Nicholas' Church
    Barton Hills; View of Barton-le-Clay villageBarton Hills; View of the Sharpenhoe ClappersThe Barton HillsHexton; Village HallThe Raven at Hexton public houseRavensburgh is an old castle hillfort nearbyThe Pegsdon HillsView back from the Pegsdon HillsView from the Pegsdon HillsDeacon Hill; the trig point

    The Barton Hills and The Pegsdon Hills

    June 4, 2025 in England ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    The Chiltern Hills or The Chilterns are a chalk escarpment that stretches around 50 miles from The Thames at Goring in Oxfordshire, at the south-western edge, to Hitchin in Hertfordshire, at the north-eastern tip.  The area covers around 324 square miles of the countryside, and the Chilterns go across four English counties: Oxfordshire, Buckinghamshire, Bedfordshire, and Hertfordshire

    This visit is to the north-eastern area with the Cambridge Rambling Club as part of a figure of 8 walk from Hexton, near Hitchin.  From Hexton we walk part of the John Bunyan Trail and then head on towards Barton-le-Clay; this village is in Central Bedfordshire, and southeast of the parish are the Barton Hills, which form part of the northeast extremity of the Chiltern Hills and are designated an Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty - much of this area of chalk downland is now a national nature reserve, managed by Natural England.  It is very beautiful, and there are Dartmoor ponies here during the summer months.  We then walk south for a while and back up to Hexton for a lunch break.

    We then walk towards Pegsdon and up to the Pegsdon Hills, another nature reserve managed by the Wildlife Trust; the reserve covers Pegsdon Hills, part of the adjacent Deacon Hill in Bedfordshire, and Hoo Bit in Hertfordshire and is in the Chilterns Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty.  It is a lovely place for a walk, if a little steep in places!

    It has been a 12-mile walk in a very interesting area.    Read more

  • Andrew's TravelsLincolnshireTraveler
    Belton House
    West CourtyardThe rear of Belton HouseInside Belton House; Blue BedroomThe LibraryThe LibraryThe Red Drawing RoomAn interesting table supportInteresting mirror supportsHondecoeter RoomChinese BedroomWindsor BedroomIn the Formal Gardens; Church of St Peter and St Paul, on their other sideThe ConservatoryThe Italian GardenThe Italian GardenThe Dutch GardenThe Dutch Garden, from the rear of the HouseIn part of the Grounds; Mirror Pond and Garden TempleDeer on the grounds

    The Belton Estate; House and Gardens

    May 25, 2025 in England ⋅ 🌬 17 °C

    We visit the Belton Estate on our way home from Hawes in North Yorkshire.

    The Belton Estate is now managed by the National Trust and is a Grade 1 listed county house, which was the seat of the Brownlow family for about 3 centuries.

    We visit the house and its formal gardens; it is a very attractive property and an interesting place to visit - see captions on photos for details.    Read more

  • Andrew's TravelsNorth YorkshireTraveler
    1. Land rover; en route to Burtersett
    2. Sheep in field; en route to Burtersett3. Head of Roman soldier; Burtersett4. Shepherd and dog; en route to Gayle5. Cow; Gayle6. Candle; en route to Aysgill Force7. Curlew; Aysgill Force8. Fish symbol and rainbow; en route to Band's Lane9. Pink flower; Band's Lane10. Sunset; the end of Band's Lane11. Kestrel; turning off towards Appersett12 Yellow flower; en route to Appersett13. Steam train; Appersett Viaduct14. Lime kiln; Hardraw road junction15. Monk; en route to Simonstone16. Purple flower; en route to Sedbusk17. Goose; Sedbusk18. Red squirrel; footpath to Hawes19. Kingfisher; near the Stone House Hotel20. Brown trout; coming into Hawes

    Hawes Mosaic Trail

    May 24, 2025 in England ⋅ 🌧 13 °C

    The Hawes Mosaic Walk is a 2000 millennium project where the community of Hawes created a circular route with 20 mosaics to find. The walk starts at the Dales Countryside Museum and finishes at St Margaret's Church. The trail features 20 mosaics that depict aspects of Wensleydale's culture, history, landscape, flora, and fauna.

    We used a trail map to find the mosaics and did the trail in two stages by incorporating it into the local walks that we did around Hawes (see previous two posts). The pictures show the 20 mosaics, together with their titles and approximate locations. It made the two walks even more interesting!    Read more

  • Andrew's TravelsNorth YorkshireTraveler
    En route to Burtersett
    Old field barnLambsBurtersettView back to Burtersett from Shaw's LaneEn route to GayleView of Hawes Church of St MargaretView of the fellsView of Gayle from the bridgeEn route to Aysgill ForceAysgill ForceDuerly BeckAppersett ViaductView of field barnCrossing Appersett Bridge

    Hawes, Aysgill Force, and Appersett Walk

    May 24, 2025 in England ⋅ 🌬 13 °C

    The other very popular circular walk in Hawes is to Aysgill Force; we do this, but with extensions east and west to incorporate the Hawes Mosaic Trail (see next FP post).

    We leave Hawes and follow the footpath to Burtersett, known for being the seat of the Hillary family with connections to Sir Edmund Hillary, the famous mountaineer. The weather is overcast, but there are still good views over Upper Wensleydale with lots of sheep in the fields.

    From here, we walk up Shaw Lane towards the small hamlet of Gayle. Here, we cross the bridge and follow the path along Duerley Beck to Aysgill Force, a small but spectacular waterfall. After a while, we double back north towards Low Bands Farm via Bands Lane. We pass Thorny Mire house and turn up towards Appersett, going under Appersett Viaduct; this used to carry trains over the Beck from Garsdalw to Hawes, but was totally closed in 1964.

    From Appersett, we cross the bridge over the River Ure and walk up over fields (in the rain!), eventually bearing east towards Hardraw (see last post). From here, we follow the Pennine Way back to Hawes to complete an interesting 11-mile walk.

    We enjoy a lovely meal at The Fountain Inn later on. It's been a good weekend in Hawes.    Read more

  • Andrew's TravelsNorth YorkshireTraveler
    Hawes; view over a beck in the village
    Hawes; the former Victorian railway station, now the Dales Countryside MuseumHaxew; Meadowland barn near the villageHaylands BridgeHardraw ForceHardraw ForceView onto the field from the walk around the top of Hardraw ForceHardraw; Church of St Mary and St JohnInside the churchMemorial Bench en route to Simonstone HallView down to Hardraw en route to SedbuskLeaving SedbuskEn route to HawesView of Haylands Bridge and HawesHawes; Market HouseHawes; St Margaret's ChurchInside St Margaret's ChurchInside St Margaret's Church

    Hawes, Hardraw Force, and Sedbusk Walk

    May 23, 2025 in England ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    Hawes is a market town in North Yorkshire, in the Yorkshire Dales National Park, and at the head of Wensleydale; it is the main producer of Wensleydale Cheese.

    We set off on the Hawes Circular Walk from the site of the former Hawes Victorian railway station, now the Dales Countryside Museum, and pick up part of the Pennine Way, 268-mile long-distance footpath from Edale (in the Peak District) to Kirk Yetholm (just beyond the Scottish border). We cross Haylands Bridge over the River Ure and cross fields over to Hawdraw, a hamlet named after the nearby Hardraw Force waterfall; with a single 200 ft drop, it is claimed to be England's highest unbroken waterfall, discounting those underground. It is on private land, and we pay to enter, taking in both the lower and higher circuit walks. The Church of St Mary and St John here featured as Darrowby Church in the TV series "All Creatures Great and Small"

    Afterwards, we walk across fields to the Simonstone Hall Hotel and follow a footpath to the hamlet of Sedbusk. We then follow a footpath across more fields back Haylands Bridge and into Hawes. It has been a pleasant 6-mile walk.    Read more

  • Andrew's TravelsNorthern Lake DistrictTraveler
    Moot Hall
    Moot Hall, from behindThe Alhambra CinemaSt John's ChurchKeswick War MemorialThe Theatre by the LakeView of Catbells from the top of Stanger Road, where we stayedCastlerigg Stone CircleCastlerigg Stone Circle, with Skiddaw in the backgroundCastlerigg Stone CircleCastlerigg Stone CircleView from Castlerigg Stone Circle

    Keswick town and Castlerigg Stone Circle

    May 23, 2025 in England ⋅ ☀️ 11 °C

    We leave Keswick today for Hawes in North Yorkshire; the first part of the footprint photos shows some of the key sites in Keswick (see captions on photos for details).

    Castlerigg Stone Circle is a short walk from Keswick, but we drive here en route to Hawes; the location is atmospheric, with panoramic views around the Thirlmere Valley and the surrounding mountains. Castlerigg Stone Circle dates from about 3,000 BC and is 97 ft (30 metres) in diameter and now comprises 38 stones.

    Keswick and the surrounding area have been excellent (the good weather has helped), and we will certainly be back here.    Read more

  • Andrew's TravelsNorthern Lake DistrictTraveler
    View over Borrowdale
    En route; Eagle Crag behind HelenView over Stonethwaite BeckView over Stonethwaite Beck towards Eagle CragLangstrath Valley; view over Langstrath Beck to the ruins of Johnny HouseLangstrath ValleyLangstrath Valley; Blea RockLangstrath Valley; the route up to Blackmoss Pot, a bathing / dipping opportunity for someLangstrath ValleyThe footbridge over the beck to the other side of the Langstrath ValleyView from the bridgeView back over Langstrath BeckView up Langstrath Valley, walking back on the other sideLangstrath ValleyView over Stonethwaite BeckView from Stonethwaite BridgeThe Wainwright in Keswick

    The Langstrath Valley

    May 22, 2025 in England ⋅ ⛅ 9 °C

    The walk today is noted for being a lower level valley walk but offers beautiful fell and typical lakeland views without a lot of ascent.

    We take the Borrowdale bus again back to Rosthwaite; here, we join the Cumbria Way to follow the path along Stonethwaite Beck, passing the hamlet of Stonethwaite on the other side. The steep woodland along the dry stonewalls on our left ends, and we carry on to reach Galleny Force; unfortunately, the dry weather recently means that the waterfall is very quiet - the river bed is filled with boulders. We cross the Beck here to follow the Cumbria Way along Langstrath Beck as it winds along Langstrath Valley (Langstrath means Long Valley).

    It is very beautiful, we have Eagle Crag on our left rising above us and we soon pass the ruins of the Johnny House on the other side. We pass the impressive Blea Rock and eventually cross a footbridge over Langstrath Beck to retrace our route on the other side of the valley. Where we turn back towards Rosthwaite at the end of Langstrath Valley, we follow a pretty footpath along Stonethwaite Beck back to Stonethwaite. Here, we cross over Stonethwaite Bridge and walk back along the Cumbria Way to Rosthwaite.

    It's been lovely weather again for our 9.5-mile walk. Later on, we enjoy a couple of beers and a pub meal at The Wainwright in Keswick.    Read more

  • Andrew's TravelsNorthern Lake DistrictTraveler
    The Bowder Stone; 30 ft high and 2,000 tons in weight
    On the Bowder StoneA cubic shaped boulder entering the walk around Grange FellView over to Maiden Moor from Grange FellView of Troutdale cottages with Derwentwater and Skiddaw in the backgroundBorrowdale, from Grange BridgeView of Derwentwater en route to Castle CragNearing Castle CragEntering the walk up to Castle CragAt the top of Castle Crag; Derwentwater behindAt the top of Castle Crag; Borrowdale behindAt the top of Castle Crag; BorrowdaleAt the top of Castle Crag; view towards RosthwaiteAt the top of Castle Crag; the memorial to Borrowdale men who fell in WWIDescending Castle CragView back to Castle Crag en route to SeatollerEn route to SeatollerEn route to RosthwaiteNearing Rosthwaite

    Grange to Rosthwaite via Castle Crag

    May 21–24, 2025 in England ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    We take the bus from Keswick to just south of Grange, to the stop for the Bowder Stone. This is one of the most famous rocks in the Lake District and weighs 2,000 tons; it is 30 ft high, 30 ft across, and 90 ft in circumference. From here, we follow the route around Grange Fell, passing a cubic shaped boulder and an old quarry before reaching Comb Gill en route to Troutdale Cottages. We follow the road a short distance to Grange Bridge and then, from Grange village, walk via Holmcrag Wood to join the Cumbria Way to Borrowdale (as yesterday) for a short way before turning off to take the path to Seatoller via Castle Crag.

    Castle Crag is an impressive slate hill overlooking Derwentwater; the other side of the hill is where we were yesterday, at the High Hows Quarry and the Millican Dalton Cave. The top of Castle Crag offers magnificent views of the surrounding area and has a memorial to the Borrowdale men who fell in WWI. The slate makes it a tough ascent and descent.

    We then carry on the route to Seatoller, crossing several gills en route. From the small village of Seatoller, the path to Rosthwaite is actually part of the coast-to-coast walk. We eventually reach Rosthwaite to take the bus back to Keswick.

    Surprisingly, it has been a walk of 1,854 ft ascent and 8.3 miles in length, and the weather has been fantastic again..    Read more

  • Andrew's TravelsNorthern Lake DistrictTraveler
    1View of Derwentwater en route to Catbells
    View of Bassenthwaite LakeView on the west sideGoing up CatbellsView downAt the summit of CatbellsAt the topView down to Friars CragView down to the southern end of DerwentwaterDescending Catbells towards ManstyView east towards Grange VillageEn route to Hollows FarmThe River Derwent in BorrowdaleNear the disused High Hows quarryMillican Dalton's CaveThe disused High Hows quarry areaThe River Derwent - totally dry hereNew Bridge, en route to RosthwaiteStepping stones over the River DerwentStepping stones over the River Derwent

    Portinscale to Rosthwaite via Catbells

    May 20, 2025 in England ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C

    The plan to take the bus to Catbells, the third of the Keswick 3 peaks, was thwarted due to ongoing roadwork, so we had to get off at Portinscale after a diversion there; it just means a longer walk!

    We repeat the Portinscale to Hawes End part from yesterday and start ascending Catbells from the cattle grid stop (where we should have got off). The ascent via Skelgill Bank is fairly steep, but there are great views on another lovely day. We reach the top; it is 1,480 feet above sea level, and one of the most popular fell walks in the Lake District with fabulous views.

    We carry on along the fell and then descend to the southern end of Derwentwater and Manesty Park. We proceed along the edge of Maiden Moor, enjoying views of Bull Crag and High Spy, towards Grange. Here, we join the Cumbria Way, eventually passing Hollows Farm before turning down towards the River Derwent and Borrowdale.

    The Valley is very scenic, and we come yo a disused quarry area for slate with a cave. The River Derwent is devoid of water in parts (it has not rained heavily for a while, which is unusual in the Lake District) after we leave the woods. We reach what is known as New Bridge and cross the river, following the Cumbria Way to Rosthwaite to catch the bus back to Keswick.

    It's been another lovely walk in great weather; 9.1 miles and a total of 2,139 feet of ascent.    Read more

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