• Buenos Aires; Porteno Tango Evening

    December 9, 2023 in Argentina ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    Tango Porteno is on every evening and located close to the Teatro Colon and Obelisk.

    This was 42 USD well spent! It was a fantastic evening with a 3 course dinner (empanades, steak, dessert) and all the red wine you could drink; oh, and some wonderful dancing and music as well!

    Hopefully, the pictures can do the event some credit.....
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  • Buenos Aires; Recoleta

    December 9, 2023 in Argentina ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    Today, we walk to and explore the barrio of Recoleta in the north part of Buenos Aires; it is a lovely area and well known for the Recoleta Cemetery and its majestic mausoleums (see picture captions for information and our route there and back to the centre).

    Afterwards, we stop off for a well-deserved beer or two and chill out during the afternoon; tonight, it is the Tango show at Porteno, close to the Obelisk....
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  • Buenos Aires; La Boca

    December 8, 2023 in Argentina ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

    The neighbourhood (barrio) of La Boca is one of the most colourful and popular areas to visit in Buenos Aires because it has the Caminito, a recently developed area which has been brought to life by a local artist. La Boca is mostly known, however, for being home to the Boca Juniors, one of the two largest football teams in Argentina.

    Our walk brings us the football stadium first and then on to Caminito, where we "see the sites" before reaching the river. It is an incredible place to visit.

    Then it is the long walk back to the hostel and some RnR before dinner.
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  • Buenos Aires; Monserrat to La Boca

    December 8, 2023 in Argentina ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    We're staying at the Milhouse Hostel, and it is rather nice, as well as being central (G-Adventures are staying here). Monserrat is the barrio that is effectively the centre of the city.

    We walk along Avenida de Mayo from one end to the other and see many interesting buildings along it (see picture captions) before heading off to La Boca via San Telmo.

    We walk through the barrio of San Telmo; it is the oldest barrio in Buenos Aires and has many interesting buildings; it is well known for its Sunday market (see separate post). We walk via Lazema Park to reach La Boca.
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  • En route to Buenos Aires

    Dec 7–8, 2023 in Argentina ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    The El Condor bus leaves on time, and we have big single seats at the back of the top of the bus (downstairs is premium). It is National Route 3 for most of the way.

    It's scrubland again as we head north and to Rio Negro province; here, armed police check our passports. A little later, just as we have eaten our rolls, the bus stops at a small town, at Resto lo de Jose for food!

    It's a long night, and we are all herded off the bus at 4:30 am at Bahia Blanca bus station while the bus goes somewhere; to refuel and/or change crew. We are in Buenos Aires province now, heading north east, and the scenery is more rural. It is very misty and foggy at 6 am, but this clears as the sun rises. From 7am onwards, it is like driving in the English countryside in Springtime - trees, cows, and fields. Similar scenery continues up to Azul and beyond, but it starts to get a bit waterlogged and marshy as we head towards Las Flores and beyond. Work is happening on parts of Route 3, which means diversions onto other roads - and a later arrival in BA?

    Small towns and factories appear as we reach the outskirts of the capital of Argentina. Not surprisingly, there is lots of traffic as we get over the ring road and approach the first bus station the bus stops at (not ours). It's a big city, and it takes us ages to get to our destination, the third bus station in the Retiro district of the city centre, due to heavy traffic; then we set off to find our hostel for the next 5 nights!

    We find it and go out for beers and a meal... The restaurant is empty because it is early, but the food is excellent (recommended by the hostel).
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  • Puerto Madryn; town and whale watching

    December 6, 2023 in Argentina ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    Our walk round Puerto Madryn yesterday afternoon shows it to be a large town with a beach, pier, promenade, and all the trimmings. It is very pleasant.

    We've booked onto a Bottazzi whale watching tour for 10 am; all tours depart from Puerto Piramides on Peninsula Valdes, which means the 6:30 am bus! It is a 1.5 hours, 100 km journey into the National Park to get there. Puerto Piramides is a village and interesting; we enjoy something to eat and coffee before the trip. It is the end of the whale watching season, and the sea's a little rough, but we are hopeful... Other options on Peninsula Valdes include visiting a penguin colony, swimming with seals, seeing sea lions: maybe next time.....

    We saw a couple of seals and watched a whale or two briefly on the trip; it had to finish slightly earlier than expected due to the wind and the small port closing, calling the boat back. It's hard to get good pictures on a moving boat, so we purchase the trip image pack from the official photographer (sent by email). It's been a great experience, and we're glad we did it.

    Back in Puerto Madryn before 3 pm, we do some food shopping and chill out in the eating area of our hostel from last night (La Tosca). Then it's off to catch the 6:35 pm overnight bus to Buenos Aires.....
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  • En route to Puerto Madryn

    Dec 5–6, 2023 in Argentina ⋅ 🌬 29 °C

    We're going rogue and leaving the Oasis truck for a few days; why? The truck leaves Monday morning at 8am and has 3 nights bush camps, 2 nights camp site, and then 1 more bush camp to reach Buenos Aires next Sunday. By going independently on overnight buses, we can visit Puerto Madryn (the only place worth a visit on the long stretch between Ushuaia and BA, due to whale watching and exploring the Valdes peninsula) and then get to BA a couple of days earlier to do some sightseeing. Most people are flying between the two - only 5 are left on the truck journey to BA (the young girls, the old girls, and Nick)!

    After a nice meal at La Cantina Fueguina de Freddy last night, we set off a few hours later on our first bus at 3 am on Monday morning; the route we travel is from Ushuaia to Rio Gallegos, change bus for Caleta Olivia, then change again for Puerto Madryn due to srrive at 13:20 on Tuesday!

    Ftom Ushuaia, it's the same journey down here in reverse as far as the Austral Broom ferry crossing point over the Magellan Strait into Santa Cruz province, then it's northeast to Rio Gallegos; it's steppe and pampas to, and after the border crossing back into Argentina. We arrive in Rio Gallegos before 3 pm and do some shopping at the Carrefour next door for food, and chill out at the bus station, waiting for the 6 pm departure to Caleta Olivia. Ant does an excellent job of organising tickets for the Puerto Madryn to BA bus and hostel accommodation in the former.

    The flat steppe landscape continues as we head north through SantaCruz province; this is how it is for most of the journey. We're upstairs, and the screens show a bad movie and some episodes of "Heart of Stone" with poor sound (help!). There is a beautiful sunset as we drive west from Puerta Santa Cruz; then it's dark both outside and inside the bus, lights out. We arrive in Caleta Olivia at 4:30 am, and it is soon dawn - it's been a long day!

    We drive along the coast, but it gets more hilly for a while as we enter Chubut province, but then it's flat scrubland again, pretty much all the way. There were a couple of stops close to Puerto Madryn, where we arrived at 1:30 pm. Then it's to the hostel and out to investigate whale watching tours for tomorrow. It's all sorted, so it's time to eat and drink at Nautico Bistro de Mer Fish Restaurant; I had Abadejo en papillote (a fish stew served in silver foil).

    If you've got this far you'll realise we've spent almost 36 hours travelling! Shades of 1978 when Anthony and I travelled in North America together (45 years ago)!
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  • The Beagle Channel

    December 3, 2023 in Argentina ⋅ ☁️ 5 °C

    We are on the Eduardo B catamaran long tour (6 hours) of the Beagle Channel from the port area of Ushuaia and hope to find penguins!

    Our first "stop" is to see Imperial Cormorants on a small island. A little later, it's the famous Ushuaia lighthouse; on the small islands nearby are Rock and Imperial Cormorants - and South American Sea Lions! Then, it is a 1.5 hour journey eastwards along the Beagle Channel to visit a penguin colony on a small island (Isla Martillo) close to Harberton.... En route, we pass Puerta Williams on our right (south), which is in Chile; the Beagle Channel is a border between Argentina and Chile. At one point, we pass through the narrowest part of the Beagle Channel (1 km wide), where the Pacific and Atlantic Oceans meet.

    Then, we find penguins! They are only found in the southern hemisphere, and seeing them in real life, in their natural habitat, was a wonderful experience.

    We are back in Ushuaia at 3 pm and have a walk round again before stopping off for beers and, later, something to eat; it's an early start tomorrow.
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  • Parque Nacional Tierra del Fuego

    December 2, 2023 in Argentina ⋅ ☁️ 6 °C

    From the train stop, we walk down to the coastal path, where the Post Office at the End of the World is situated; many people send post cards from here, all over the world.

    Once again, there are beautiful views as we walk the 7km coastal path trail, up and down, to access the road and walk back. We are lucky with the weather and get back to the station in good time for the return journey at 4 pm - which is in the rain! Back in Ushuaia, the weather is good, and we stop for a beer - why not? We hook up with the youngsters at the Dublin Irish pub.......... It's been a great day out!

    Then it's back for eggs and toast (with red wine) at the hostel.
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  • El Tren del Fin del Mundo

    December 2, 2023 in Argentina ⋅ ☁️ 5 °C

    Ushuaia was originally founded as a prison town, with staff in the town and convicts in a prison outside of town; convicts were used to construct the railway from town to the prison. When the prison was closed, the railway went into disrepair, but it was repurposed as a major tourist attraction in 1994 - The Train to the End of the World.

    There are 3 trains per day and we are on the 9:30am departure. The station is really interesting and the trains are authentic. It is very slow, and there are beautiful views, with one stop en route (Macarena). At the end of the line, one hour later, we get off to have a walk in the National Park.
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  • Ushuaia

    December 1, 2023 in Argentina ⋅ ☁️ 10 °C

    We walked into town and managed to book tours (thanks, Ant) and had a quick look round, followed by a beer. It's a very interesting place.

    Back at the hostel, Amrit is offering the vodka..... pizza in oven, but it didn't go well (my fault).Read more

  • En route to Ushuaia and Tierra del Fuego

    Dec 1–2, 2023 in Chile ⋅ 🌬 9 °C

    We set off after 8 a.m., only 15 people on the truck now as 5 have diverted to Antarctica for 10 days, and others have left to ensure more time in Ushuaia to catch flights. Sun shining at times as we head south on the Ruta del Fin del Mundo ( "Route to the end of the World") towards Tierra del Fuego ("Land of Fire").

    There is steppe on both sides of the road for most of the journey, but as we bypass Punta Arenas, we see the inlet that is connected to the South Pacific Ocean. There is a short ferry crossing at Austral Broom across the Magellan Strait to reach the Chilean part of the province of the island of Tierra del Fuego; a lot of traffic, and we had to wait an hour to board a ferry.

    It is mainly scrubland as we enter Tierra del Fuego, but there is the occasional salt flat here. We have a quick and late (2:45 pm) lunch stop at the small town of Cerro Sombrero before continuing south. We stop off at a small refugio near the coast for our wild/bush camp. It is very windy as we set up camp and prepare food (pasta). It was an early night, but not much sleep due to wind (outside) and cold. On our way before 7:30 to the border crossing at San Sebastian into Argentine Tierra del Fuego. More scrubland as we head south to Ushuaia, skirting the edge of the South Pacific Ocean, where there is the occasional settlement, before cutting across to Ushuaia - hills, trees and mountains in the background. There are valleys and more mountain views as we take the pass to Ushuaia, the most southerly city in the world.
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  • W-Trek Day 4; Grey Trek

    November 29, 2023 in Chile ⋅ ☁️ 4 °C

    It was rather windy during the night, with several bouts of rainfall. The proposed early start didn't happen, but we were still away by 7:30 am!

    The weather isn't too bad as we head west before north up the valley. We pass the attractive Laguna Los Patos and start climbing. More great views, including the large Grey Lake, and eventually, we reach Mirador Grey for views of the Grey Glacier. Further down is Refugio Grey, but there is not enough time (or inclination?) to go further than the Mirador Grey viewpoint. It is incredibly windy at the Mirador, dangerously so, and the weather is closing in, so we head back to Pain Grande for an early lunch. We covered about 9 km this morning; it's been a good morning, and we have completed the W-Trek!

    Some downtime at Pain Grande before we take the prepaid catamaran to Pudeto for our lift back to Puerto Natales and back to the Garden Domes Hostel. It turned out to be a very long day, as our driver had to wait for the last catamaran to get everybody. Lovely views of lakes on the way back.

    Then it's a pizza party!
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  • W-Trek Day 3; French Valley Trek

    November 28, 2023 in Chile ⋅ 🌧 6 °C

    It's a 6 am breakfast so that we can make the most of the morning. After 30 mins, we reach Camping Italiano, where we can leave the rucksack for the 5.5 km hike up to the Britanico viewpoint. On the way, we see Frances Glacier; there is a lot of noise as avalanches seem to be frequent. The weather is not good today, as it is raining. It is fairly flat for a while, but the ascent / scramble to the Britanico viewpoint is hard work. It's still raining, but it eases off for the descent back to Camping Italiano.

    An early lunch, rucksacks on, and it's 8 km to Pain Grande.... The weather takes a serious turn for the worse; it tips down, it's windy, and it's cold. I was soaked through and had to dig deep. Made it, but shivering.

    Overall, it was about 22 km today. Another big one tomorrow, and then the W-Trek is done!
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  • W-Trek Day 2; Los Cuernos Trek

    November 27, 2023 in Chile ⋅ ☁️ 7 °C

    We are dropped off at the visitor centre again and walked the same route as yesterday for a while, but carry on to Los Cuernos instead of upwards to Los Torres. We are lucky with the weather again and enjoy great views in good sunshine. There is quite a lot of up and down, making this quite a hard slog at times, particularly on the approaches both to Refugio Cuernos and Camping Frances; total walking about 15 km today with a fully loaded rucksack! No wonder I was tired.....

    The campsite is in the woods, and all the tents are on stilts, but with a comfortable insert to sleep on; access is not easy, though. The food laid on for our group was nice, and it's an early night. It rained.
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  • W-Trek Day 1; Torres de Paine Trek

    November 26, 2023 in Chile ⋅ ⛅ 3 °C

    There is a lot of uphill walking in this part of the W, and we can leave stuff on the minibus (eg, sleeping bags, clothes, etc) as we are with guides today.

    We are dropped off at the visitor centre after the main entrance and, after a while, turn off to head upwards. There are beautiful views of streams, valleys, and mountains. It is steep here, but we are lucky with the weather today; not surprisingly, it gets very windy along Paso de los Vientos! We reach Refugio Chileno, and then it is a difficult ascent to the Mirador base de las Torres; not as bad as that for Monte Fitz Roy, but still hard work. Well worth it, though, as we reach the top for the magnificent view of the granite towers.

    Then it is down - also hard work - and on the minibus again to our overnight at Laguna Amarga Cabins just outside the park. There is food, beer, wine, all included - and well deserved after the 22 km trekked today!
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  • Puerto Natales to start of W-Trek

    November 26, 2023 in Chile ⋅ ☁️ 5 °C

    We set off for the 130 km journey to the park entrance by minibus just before 7 a.m.; It's windy, and it rains en route.. Rolling hills, reminiscent of Scotland (apparently), then snow-capped mountains. We stop for pictures at a mirador of the Torres before we reach the park entrance and then our drop-off point.Read more

  • To Puerto Natales; The W-Trek Gateway

    November 25, 2023 in Chile ⋅ 🌬 12 °C

    We eventually set off about 7:30 am for the journey to Puero Natales, back in Chile, to start the W-Trek tomorrow morning. It's a lovely day (in Argentina), and we head south with views of the Andes and Steppe on the west (sometimes Steppe only) and Steppe on the east.

    More hilly as we got south and we passed several small mines - one conveyor belt ran for miles - as we approached the town of Rio Turbio in South West Argentinafor an early lunch stop; the border crossing was shortly after this. The crossing from Argentina into Chile took just over 3 hours it was extremely windy on either side.

    The 12 W-Trekkers are dropped off at the Garden Domes Hostel, Puerto Natales, 130 km from the Torres del Paine National Park, for the W-Trek tomorrow; our hosts are ChileTour Patagonia. What appears to be a lake is actually the end of a fjord connected to the Pacific Ocean.

    This is the plan....

    Day 1. Base of Towers of Paine Trek
    Day 2; Los Cuernos Trek
    Day 3; French Valley Trek
    Day 4; Grey Trail Trek

    I am looking forward to seeing the 2,800m granite peaks soaring above the Patagonian Steppe!

    Then it's out for dinner (included in the price).
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  • Perito Moreno Glacier

    November 24, 2023 in Argentina ⋅ ☁️ 3 °C

    We set off from El Calafate on the 80 km trip to Perito Moreno Glacier on a small van (10 people) at 9 am. We drive along Patagonian Steppe by Lago Argentino, the largest in the country; the arms of the lake form several peninsulars at the Andes, including that which enables the Perito Moreno Glacier. The weather is different on either side of the Andes.

    The lake is turquoise due to glacial sediment. Trees appear as we round the peninsula, and we stop at a mirador for our first view of the Glacier.

    We get there and walk along the excellent elevated walkways that are in place; this is a magnificent setting, and, once again, words and pictures can not do Perito Moreno Glacier justice. If you stop at one of the viewing points, after a while, you can see and hear ice and rock falling into the water. Amazing!

    We meet for the boat trip at 2 pm; this is also spectacular, getting up fairly close to the front of the Glacier.

    It has been a truly epic day.
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  • En route to, and, El Calafate

    November 23, 2023 in Argentina ⋅ 🌬 12 °C

    We leave the campsite just after 8 am to travel to El Calafate, the southern end gateway to Los Glaciares National Park, and stop for pictures of Monte Fitz Roy. We reach the junction with the road south; it's steppe scenery again.

    We stop for views over the lake and again at Parador La Leona, where Butch Cassidy and The Sundance Kid stayed for 3 nights on their journey south from Bolivia.

    We arrive on El Calafate for midday and have an explore during the afternoon. After a late lunch, Ant's research using Atlas Obscura led us to the Glaciarium and the Glacier Bar. The Glaciarium is a glacier interpretation centre that describes the Patagonia glaciers and their development, etc, in interesting detail. Then we reached a short film narrated br thr Perito Moreno Glacier and its plight; it was rather moving. The Glacier Bar is made from glacial ice and is - 15 C; you get a poncho, and a couple of shots served in ice containers included in the price. 20 minutes max allowed in there; it was quite an experience.
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  • El Chalten; Monte Fitz Roy Trek

    November 22, 2023 in Argentina ⋅ ☁️ 9 °C

    The Sendero al Fitz Roy goes from El Chalten up to Laguna de los Tres; it is allegedly 10 km each way, with a lot of uphill.... Captions on the photos describe the trail.

    It's steepish to start with for 3 km, and then it's flatter; lots of good views. 4 km later, we pass through the Poincenot camp site, and then the hard part starts; the ascent to the top is really steep on unstable ground. Fantastic views at the top of the ziggurat shape of Monte Fitz Roy help compensate for the most difficult ascent that I have ever done (last 2 km only). We have seen Monte Fitz Roy ahead of us during the day; granite towers and 3,400 metres high - a truly amazing site. We descend and see Laguna Capri on the other side to the Mirador Fiitz Roy seen on the way up.

    Ant and I really deserved a couple of beers after that walk!

    Then it's back to the campsite and out for food (and more beers).
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  • En route to, and, El Chalten

    November 21, 2023 in Argentina ⋅ ☁️ 8 °C

    We leave the hostel at 8 am for the 500 km journey to El Chalten, on the northern edge of Los Glaciares National Park. The road is fast, and the scenery is the same most of the way - steppes - as we reach the small town of Gobernador Gregores. The view is similar after the town, and the wind is cold and very strong!

    Soon afterwards, we pass by a beautiful turquoise coloured lake (Lago Cardiel) and unusual flat topped hills. It's so cold and windy, not unusual in Patagonia, we have lunch on the bus. Later, we pass through the town of Tres Lagos. Snow capped mountains appear as we turn off for the final 90 km to El Chalten, and we get our first views of the Monte Fitz Roy and the Cerre Poincenot. We stop for pictures and then reach our campsite at 6:30 pm. It's a nice-looking town and is a trekking centre for this area.

    It's a lovely campsite with facilities, and the vegetarian curry planned for tonight is cooked under cover. It was excellent, then into town for beers and to watch the Brazil v Argentina World Cup qualifer (0-1).
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  • Lago Buenos Aires / Cueva de las Manos

    November 20, 2023 in Argentina ⋅ ☀️ 4 °C

    At 1 am, the wind was phenomenal, and I was scared the tent would blow away! It held firm, but it was quite an experience. Then it poured down!

    Tents down at 6 am, and by 7:15, we are off. We stop to enjoy the view of Laguna Verde and then drive through the small town of Chile Chico and arrive at the first of the border crossings by 8:30; we are in the Santa Cruz region of Argentina at 11 am.

    There is flat scrubland by Lago Buenos Aires - as it is known this side of the border - and beyond as we travel east on good roadls, eventually turning south; it's extremely windy, but the sun is shining. The truck lunch was by a sheltered culvert underneath the road to get out of the wind. It's back to scrubland after and then steppe passing through part of the Parque Patagonia.

    We divert to drive to the gorge of the Pinturas River, to visit the Cueva de las Manos Cave, a UNESCO World Heritage Site; hunter gatherers lived in the caves here over 9,000 years ago, and the guanaco that lived on the steppes were their main source of food.

    We take an obligatory guided tour along a walkway to see the aleros, rocky overhangs en route to the cave itself; there are pre-Colombian paintings of hands (mainly left), guanacos, other animals and hunting scenes formed by chewing and spraying a mixture of gypsum, minerals, etc. from the mouth using hands, etc, as stencils on these aleros. The colours varied over the millenia; a very interesting place.

    Then it's back to the main road and south to find a bush camp site. It's steppe land all the way, and I see two small groups of guanaco as well as a rhea on the journey.

    In the event, we stayed in a hostel / hotel in Bajo Caracoles; bed, shower, food, beer - not in that order.
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  • Carretera Austral / Lago General Carrera

    November 19, 2023 in Chile ⋅ ☁️ 6 °C

    We leave Coyhaique for Carretera Austral south again; ideally, we'll cross the border and bush camp in Argentina; if not, it will be in Chile. The flat area gives way to valleys along the mountains.

    It is beautiful as we drive along the Rio Ibanez and El Progresso areas to the Villa Cerrro Castillo area, where there are many mountain peaks, and then it's back down to the valley bottom and due south.

    The Carretra Austral crosses over the Lago General Carrera at the town of Puerto Rio Tranquilo; it is a stunning area, popular with hikers.

    We then travel along the southern shore of Lago General Carrera to head east towards Chile Chico. At times, it's like driving along the side of a coastal cliff.

    This journey today has been exceptional, showing the beauty of Patagonia; my photos can't do it justice.

    After a couple of reccies, Kevin and Claire opt to bush camp by the road west of Chile Chico. It's raining, but tents are put up, and a meal of frankfurters, instant mash, and a vegetarian concoction are prepared; it was all really good. An early night follows...
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  • Carretera Austral; Coyhaique

    November 18, 2023 in Chile ⋅ ☁️ 2 °C

    After two nights in the log cabin on the campsite at Futaleufu, we leave just after 6 am. for the long journey south to El Chalten and Los Glaciares NP, back in Argentina. The roads are slow and bumpy as we journey south through the Chilean part of Patagonia. There are good views, despite the rain. Then the road improves as we join Carretera Austral, a major Chilean road, and we can make some progress.

    Later on, it's high, slow roads along the valley, and rather misty. Then we see snow on the trees around us as we pass through the Quelat National Park. We enjoy a quick truck lunch (bread, cheese, ham, tomato, cucumber) at a stop on the Carretra Austral and continue south. It starts to get flatter around the Andes foothills. It's all about the scenery in Patagonia; rivers, cliffs, mountains, waterfalls - it's very beautiful.

    We arrive in Coyhaique, and the sun is shining as we arrive at our campsite. Then, a quick exploration of the town as we seek out food and beer.
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  • Futaleufu; en route, town and walk

    November 16, 2023 in Chile ⋅ 🌧 7 °C

    We set off from the campsite soon after 8 am. for the 360km journey south through Argentina to Futaleufu; this is in Chile, and the border crossing is close to it.

    There are views of the Andes and flatter scrubland as we drive. After a while, we divert through part of the so-called Welsh area, where there are small flags in some gardens. The border crossing was slowish, but we were back in Chile at about 6 pm.

    It's pouring with rain, and rather than camp, the group can have a sleepover in the quinta, the log cabin on the site, but several people choose a hostel alternative. Then it's into the small town of Futaleufu; we get a lift to Bar Madero - beers and a Mechada Madero sandwich beckon. Back later , and it rains hard all night. Apparently, the weather in this area is unusual for this time of year, as it's going to rain for the next 5 days....

    The river is too high for white water rafting (this is one of the top 3 places in the world for this). Ant and I wander into the small town of Futaleufu to see it and then set off on a local walk. According to Ant's digital watch, we walked 10.5 miles today (most of it in the rain).
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