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Patagonia Adventures
  • Andrew's Travels

Patagonia Adventures

Travelling from Santiago (Chile) down through Patagonia to Ushuaia and back up to Buenos Aires (both in Argentina) on an Oasis Overland trip. Read more
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  • Trip start
    November 7, 2023
    Andrew's TravelsPatagonia AdventuresTraveler
    Cerro San Cristobal
    Cerro San Cristobal; Sanctuary of Immaculate ConceotionStatue of the Blessed MaryBelles Artes MuseumBelles Artes Street artPlaza de ArmesPlaza de Armes; CathedralLa Moneda; The seat of the President / The President of Chile!The Financial DistrictGAM; Centre Gabriela Mistral cultural centre

    Santiago 1; Highlights Tour

    November 7, 2023 in Chile ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C

    Anthony and I arrived in Santiago after the long flight from Heathrow. After checking in at the hostel and planning at reception, we take the funicular to the top of Cerro San Cristobal and have an explore before returning for lunch.

    It's a bit of a rush to join the Tours4Tips tour of the Highlights of Santiago, but we make it. We see many interesting buildings before finishing at the Centre Gabriela Mistral cultural centre in the Lastarria area (see picture captions).    Read more

  • Andrew's TravelsPatagonia AdventuresTraveler
    Lastarria; Church of the Vera Cruz
    Santa Lucia HillView of Cerro San CristobalView of the mountainsChipe Libre - The Republic of Pisco1Cheers!

    Santiago 2; More places of interest

    November 7, 2023 in Chile ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    After the Trips4Tips tour finishes in the Lastarria area, we wander through to the Santa Lucia Hill. There are some interesting buildings here, including an old Fort. When the part of the Mapocho River that flows through Santiago was canalised, some of the detritus was put here to make the hill larger. There are great views of the city and the Anne's from here

    Back in Lastarria, pisco sour awaits at the amazing Chipe Libre. Is it better from Chile or Peru? It's hard to say, as they were both excellent!    Read more

  • Andrew's TravelsPatagonia AdventuresTraveler
    Plaza Sotomayor
    FunicularPasei Yugoslavo / Interesting houseValparaiso street art

    Valparaiso

    November 8, 2023 in Chile ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    We take the metro and bus to Valparaíso, a city on the coast. It is well known for its colourful buildings covered in street art, steep streets, etc, but it is also a major port. We start our exploration from the centre, Palace Sotomayor, and visit Cerro Alegre and Cerro Conception via the funicular and lots of walking. It's a fascinating place to visit.Read more

  • Andrew's TravelsPatagonia AdventuresTraveler
    Posada del Corregidor
    Mercado La Vega ChicaMercado Vega GrandeSantiago north of the riverSantiago General Cemetery

    Santiago 3; Offbeat Santiago Tour

    November 9, 2023 in Chile ⋅ ☁️ 25 °C

    Today, it's the Tours4Tips Offbeat Santiago tour that shows "normal" life for city dwellers. Before we cross the river, canalised in this part of the city, we see old embassies and the Posado del Corregidor (now a museum). After the flea market, we pass through various sections of the Mercado Centrale, before emerging into an area that is now popular with the various migrant communities that have settled here (Koreans, Venezuelans, Peruvians, etc.)

    We then visit the Santiago General Cemetery, which is much like a small town with "blocks of flats" and "mansions," depending on the wealth of the departed. It is actually very interesting and considered a "must see" in Santiago.

    Later this evening, we meet the rest of the Oasis Overland group. 24 travellers on the bus; what could possibly go wrong? Seriously, they look to be a good group, and we look forward to a great trip!    Read more

  • Andrew's TravelsPatagonia AdventuresTraveler
    PuconDown by the lakeLocal beers / Pastel del Choclo

    En route to, and, Pucon

    November 11, 2023 in Chile

    We set off at 9:30 am in the 800km, 2 day journey south to Pucon. It's raining all day in Santiago today, so it's a good time to be leaving. There are 21 on the bus today, excluding Claire (our leader) and Kevin (our driver), and the layout is very different from those I have been on before, as the seats face inward with the bags stored underneath them in deep lockers.

    There are many vineyards as we head south through the heavy rain, eventually stopping at a large campsite near Chillan at about 6 pm; we are the only people here. We put up our tents; these are sturdier and roomier than expected as they were recently acquired from the now defunct tour company Toucan). The cook group for tonight serves up a lovely rice dish with vegetables. There is a disco / nightclub next to the campsite; it's Friday night, and they close at 5 am.....

    The next morning, we continued on to Pucon - through the rain initially, but the weather improved as we got closer to Pucon, arriving at 1:30 pm. It has a very European feel to it, with the scenery, buildings, and trekking shops.

    We have a quick explore of the town, seeing the lake with its black volcanic sand, and enjoy beers and food, as you do!    Read more

  • Andrew's TravelsPatagonia AdventuresTraveler
    Kutralko viewpoint
    Mamull viewpointRefugio Aserradero1Laguna Las TotorasPewenLaguna NegraLaguna NegraChis, Phil, Andrew, Anthony, MarkVillarrica volcano

    Santuario El Cani

    November 12, 2023 in Chile ⋅ ⛅ 3 °C

    A walk in the park; in this case, a private park to see the area where the Mapuche lived; this privately forested area, the Cani Sanctuary, was saved from logging and entrusted to local residents in 2004.

    We set off on the 7:50 am minibus to the area, we being me, Ant, Mark & Chris, and Phil. It's a long walk uphill from the administration entrance, and we stop at the various observation points (see captions). The actual park entrance is at The Sawmill Hut. There was a lot of snow yesterday from here upwards, although it is lovely today, and it is hard work walking up the steep slopes. We see the ancient Pewen trees held sacred by the Mapuche people; these are considered living fossils as they were around with the dinosaurs. We finish at the Laguna Negra and double back; it is considered too dangerous to go on to the Melidekin viewpoint (views of volcanoes), and there are warning signs not to go further. However, back in Pucon, we are lucky with the light and have an amazing view of the Villarrica volcano from the town.

    A great day out; 13 miles, half hard uphill with the return downhill difficult due to the snow and the trees thawing.    Read more

  • Andrew's TravelsPatagonia AdventuresTraveler
    View of the Andes as we cross into Argentina
    Life on the busLago CorrentosoNearing BarilocheThe camp site; home for 3 nightsView of Lago Nahuel Huapi by campsite

    Bariloche; en route and campsite

    Nov 13–14, 2023 in Argentina ⋅ 🌧 6 °C

    We leave the hostel in Pucon at about 8:30am for the border crossing into Argentina; this is over the Andes, and it is rather cold up there. It's a slow process, taking several hours, but we make it entering Argentina via the national park Lanin and away from the mountains. We make rwo stops, one for lunch and the other for a cooking group shop at a supermarket.

    We are driving through an area known as the Argentine Lakes District; there are good views, despite the steamed up bus windows - it is raining outside, but it stops eventually as near Bariloche.

    We arrive at the Camping Petunia campsite, 13 km west of Bariloche, at 8 pm! The food group does a great job, and it's late to bed; it's very cold tonight.    Read more

  • Andrew's TravelsPatagonia AdventuresTraveler
    View from Promenade
    View from PromenadeRecreation area along PromenadeBariloche CathedralCentro CivicoCentro CivicoView of Lake from Centro CivicoInteresting chairLunch

    Bariloche

    Nov 14–15, 2023 in Argentina ⋅ ☁️ 3 °C

    San Carlos de Bariloche, to give it its full name, is an attractive town in the Nahuel Huapi National Park in the foothills of the Andes; in the Rio Negro province; it has an alpine feel to it.. We get the 20 bus there, thanks to help from locals as we didn't have a SUBA card, and they paid oir fares using theirs!

    We walk along the promenade facing Puerto San Carlos, past a recreation area to see the large cathedral. Then it's back via the main roads to the Centro Civico.

    We have a money exchange, SUBA bus card, and shopping for warmer sleeping bags, gloves, etc, to do. It all happens, and then we have lunch and take the 20 back again, past the camping site, to Cerro Campanario.    Read more

  • Andrew's TravelsPatagonia AdventuresTraveler
    1Arrival in the chairlift
    View from the top of the chairliftView from the top of the chairliftView from the top of the chairliftView from the top of the chairliftView from the top of the chairliftView from the top of the chairliftViews from the top of the chairliftCervezreia WesleyOveja Negra; Andrew, Heather, Mark, Anthony

    Cerro Campanario Aerosilla

    November 14, 2023 in Argentina ⋅ ☁️ 7 °C

    A few km from our campsite, the Cerro Campanario Aerosilla (chairlift) takes you to the top of a cerro (hill) that offers amazing views of the area on a good, clear afternoon from 1,052m above sea level - and it was a good, clear afternoon!

    We walked down from the top. After some downtime, a few of us walked up the road (3km) to the Cervezeria Wesley for beers, bus back, and then stopped off at the bar Oveja Negra, just outside the campsite, for more beers. It was a great night out, and the new sleeping bag enabled me to sleep!    Read more

  • Andrew's TravelsPatagonia AdventuresTraveler
    Llao Llao Hotel
    Bosque de Arrayanes or Myrtle ForestMoreno Lake viewing pointLago Escondido or Hidden LakePuente Romano or Roman BridgeViews from Cerrito Llao LlaoViews from Cerrito Llao LlaoView on the way down1Orveja Negra; Chris, Andrew, Mark, AnthonyOur hosts

    Llao Llao Municipal Park

    November 15, 2023 in Argentina ⋅ ☁️ 4 °C

    We take the bus to the Llao Llao Hotel, a resort, golf, and spa centre where the very helpful receptionist provided us with a hiking map. The hotel is set at the edge of the Llao Llao Municipal Park, a protected natural area that includes a recreational conservation forest as part of the Circuito Chico area.

    We set off and see the various points of interest along the short walking trails; we do most of them in sequence (see picture captions). We walk 10 miles in total, with the ascent to the peak of the Cerrito Llao Llao being particularly arduous; it was well worth it, though.

    Layer on, it's back to Oveja Negra for empanadas and beers wirh Mark and Chris.    Read more

  • Andrew's TravelsPatagonia AdventuresTraveler
    En route: view of the Andes
    En route; views of scrublandEn route; more viewsBar MaderoFutaleufu; the river next to our campsiteFutaleufu; Plazade Armas, the town centre / Local churchFutaleufu; small lake on edge of town / Walk; Lago La PazWalk; viewsWe made a friend....Futaleufu at 5:30pm

    Futaleufu; en route, town and walk

    November 16, 2023 in Chile ⋅ 🌧 7 °C

    We set off from the campsite soon after 8 am. for the 360km journey south through Argentina to Futaleufu; this is in Chile, and the border crossing is close to it.

    There are views of the Andes and flatter scrubland as we drive. After a while, we divert through part of the so-called Welsh area, where there are small flags in some gardens. The border crossing was slowish, but we were back in Chile at about 6 pm.

    It's pouring with rain, and rather than camp, the group can have a sleepover in the quinta, the log cabin on the site, but several people choose a hostel alternative. Then it's into the small town of Futaleufu; we get a lift to Bar Madero - beers and a Mechada Madero sandwich beckon. Back later , and it rains hard all night. Apparently, the weather in this area is unusual for this time of year, as it's going to rain for the next 5 days....

    The river is too high for white water rafting (this is one of the top 3 places in the world for this). Ant and I wander into the small town of Futaleufu to see it and then set off on a local walk. According to Ant's digital watch, we walked 10.5 miles today (most of it in the rain).    Read more

  • Andrew's TravelsPatagonia AdventuresTraveler
    Heading south from Futaleufu
    Heading south from FutaleufuHeading south on the Carretra AustralQuelat National ParkQuelat National ParkLunch stop on the Carretera AustralGetting close to CoyhaiqueA famous Coyhaique landmarkCoyhaiqueCoyhaique, Plaza de Armas

    Carretera Austral; Coyhaique

    November 18, 2023 in Chile ⋅ ☁️ 2 °C

    After two nights in the log cabin on the campsite at Futaleufu, we leave just after 6 am. for the long journey south to El Chalten and Los Glaciares NP, back in Argentina. The roads are slow and bumpy as we journey south through the Chilean part of Patagonia. There are good views, despite the rain. Then the road improves as we join Carretera Austral, a major Chilean road, and we can make some progress.

    Later on, it's high, slow roads along the valley, and rather misty. Then we see snow on the trees around us as we pass through the Quelat National Park. We enjoy a quick truck lunch (bread, cheese, ham, tomato, cucumber) at a stop on the Carretra Austral and continue south. It starts to get flatter around the Andes foothills. It's all about the scenery in Patagonia; rivers, cliffs, mountains, waterfalls - it's very beautiful.

    We arrive in Coyhaique, and the sun is shining as we arrive at our campsite. Then, a quick exploration of the town as we seek out food and beer.    Read more

  • Andrew's TravelsPatagonia AdventuresTraveler
    Views leaving Coyhaique
    Carretera AustralRio IbanezEl ProgressoVilla Cerro Castillo areaLago General CarreraPuerto Rio TranquiloLeaving Puerto Rio TranquiloThe south shore of Lago General Carrera towards Chile ChicoBush camp; food prep / fireside

    Carretera Austral / Lago General Carrera

    November 19, 2023 in Chile ⋅ ☁️ 6 °C

    We leave Coyhaique for Carretera Austral south again; ideally, we'll cross the border and bush camp in Argentina; if not, it will be in Chile. The flat area gives way to valleys along the mountains.

    It is beautiful as we drive along the Rio Ibanez and El Progresso areas to the Villa Cerrro Castillo area, where there are many mountain peaks, and then it's back down to the valley bottom and due south.

    The Carretra Austral crosses over the Lago General Carrera at the town of Puerto Rio Tranquilo; it is a stunning area, popular with hikers.

    We then travel along the southern shore of Lago General Carrera to head east towards Chile Chico. At times, it's like driving along the side of a coastal cliff.

    This journey today has been exceptional, showing the beauty of Patagonia; my photos can't do it justice.

    After a couple of reccies, Kevin and Claire opt to bush camp by the road west of Chile Chico. It's raining, but tents are put up, and a meal of frankfurters, instant mash, and a vegetarian concoction are prepared; it was all really good. An early night follows...    Read more

  • Andrew's TravelsPatagonia AdventuresTraveler
    Last night's bush camp site / Mirador Laguna Verde
    Lago Buenos AiresScrubland becomes steppe as we head southPassing through Parque Patagonia, a former sheep ranchRio Pinturas GorgeCueva de las Manos; paintings on the alerosCueva de las Manos; paintings on the alerosCueva de las Manos; the cave entrance / paintings on the aleros1Cueva de las Manos; paintings on the alerosRio Pinturas Gorge; end of the walkway / view of the other side

    Lago Buenos Aires / Cueva de las Manos

    November 20, 2023 in Argentina ⋅ ☀️ 4 °C

    At 1 am, the wind was phenomenal, and I was scared the tent would blow away! It held firm, but it was quite an experience. Then it poured down!

    Tents down at 6 am, and by 7:15, we are off. We stop to enjoy the view of Laguna Verde and then drive through the small town of Chile Chico and arrive at the first of the border crossings by 8:30; we are in the Santa Cruz region of Argentina at 11 am.

    There is flat scrubland by Lago Buenos Aires - as it is known this side of the border - and beyond as we travel east on good roadls, eventually turning south; it's extremely windy, but the sun is shining. The truck lunch was by a sheltered culvert underneath the road to get out of the wind. It's back to scrubland after and then steppe passing through part of the Parque Patagonia.

    We divert to drive to the gorge of the Pinturas River, to visit the Cueva de las Manos Cave, a UNESCO World Heritage Site; hunter gatherers lived in the caves here over 9,000 years ago, and the guanaco that lived on the steppes were their main source of food.

    We take an obligatory guided tour along a walkway to see the aleros, rocky overhangs en route to the cave itself; there are pre-Colombian paintings of hands (mainly left), guanacos, other animals and hunting scenes formed by chewing and spraying a mixture of gypsum, minerals, etc. from the mouth using hands, etc, as stencils on these aleros. The colours varied over the millenia; a very interesting place.

    Then it's back to the main road and south to find a bush camp site. It's steppe land all the way, and I see two small groups of guanaco as well as a rhea on the journey.

     In the event, we stayed in a hostel / hotel in Bajo Caracoles; bed, shower, food, beer - not in that order.    Read more

  • Andrew's TravelsPatagonia AdventuresTraveler
    Typical views en route to Gobernador Gregores
    View several hours laterTurquoise coloured Lago CardielAn odd shaped hillGetting closeMonte Fitz RoyVegetable curryEl ChaltenMark, Anthony, Janneck, Andrew

    En route to, and, El Chalten

    November 21, 2023 in Argentina ⋅ ☁️ 8 °C

    We leave the hostel at 8 am for the 500 km journey to El Chalten, on the northern edge of Los Glaciares National Park. The road is fast, and the scenery is the same most of the way - steppes - as we reach the small town of Gobernador Gregores. The view is similar after the town, and the wind is cold and very strong!

    Soon afterwards, we pass by a beautiful turquoise coloured lake (Lago Cardiel) and unusual flat topped hills. It's so cold and windy, not unusual in Patagonia, we have lunch on the bus. Later, we pass through the town of Tres Lagos. Snow capped mountains appear as we turn off for the final 90 km to El Chalten, and we get our first views of the Monte Fitz Roy and the Cerre Poincenot. We stop for pictures and then reach our campsite at 6:30 pm. It's a nice-looking town and is a trekking centre for this area.

    It's a lovely campsite with facilities, and the vegetarian curry planned for tonight is cooked under cover. It was excellent, then into town for beers and to watch the Brazil v Argentina World Cup qualifer (0-1).    Read more

  • Andrew's TravelsPatagonia AdventuresTraveler
    1The route
    Mirador Rio de las VeultasMirador Fitz Roy1Views en routeThe hardest ascent I have ever done!This is why!Views on the ascentMonte Fitz Roy2Laguna de los Tres (frozen with snow on it) and Monte Fitz Roy behind itLaguna Capri, on the descent

    El Chalten; Monte Fitz Roy Trek

    November 22, 2023 in Argentina ⋅ ☁️ 9 °C

    The Sendero al Fitz Roy goes from El Chalten up to Laguna de los Tres; it is allegedly 10 km each way, with a lot of uphill.... Captions on the photos describe the trail.

    It's steepish to start with for 3 km, and then it's flatter; lots of good views. 4 km later, we pass through the Poincenot camp site, and then the hard part starts; the ascent to the top is really steep on unstable ground. Fantastic views at the top of the ziggurat shape of Monte Fitz Roy help compensate for the most difficult ascent that I have ever done (last 2 km only). We have seen Monte Fitz Roy ahead of us during the day; granite towers and 3,400 metres high - a truly amazing site. We descend and see Laguna Capri on the other side to the Mirador Fiitz Roy seen on the way up.

    Ant and I really deserved a couple of beers after that walk!

    Then it's back to the campsite and out for food (and more beers).    Read more

  • Andrew's TravelsPatagonia AdventuresTraveler
    Monte Fitz Roy background; Andrew / Claire, our group leader and Kevin, our driver
    A final view of Monte Fitz Roy / The tour groupParador La LeonaEl CalafateDowntownLocal Argentine ChurchViews of Lago ArgentinoGlaciariumGlacier BarCheers; the local Calafate shot (calafate is a plant with dark berries)

    En route to, and, El Calafate

    November 23, 2023 in Argentina ⋅ 🌬 12 °C

    We leave the campsite just after 8 am to travel to El Calafate, the southern end gateway to Los Glaciares National Park, and stop for pictures of Monte Fitz Roy. We reach the junction with the road south; it's steppe scenery again.

    We stop for views over the lake and again at Parador La Leona, where Butch Cassidy and The Sundance Kid stayed for 3 nights on their journey south from Bolivia.

    We arrive on El Calafate for midday and have an explore during the afternoon. After a late lunch, Ant's research using Atlas Obscura led us to the Glaciarium and the Glacier Bar. The Glaciarium is a glacier interpretation centre that describes the Patagonia glaciers and their development, etc, in interesting detail. Then we reached a short film narrated br thr Perito Moreno Glacier and its plight; it was rather moving. The Glacier Bar is made from glacial ice and is - 15 C; you get a poncho, and a couple of shots served in ice containers included in the price. 20 minutes max allowed in there; it was quite an experience.    Read more

  • Andrew's TravelsPatagonia AdventuresTraveler
    Lago Argentino
    Calafate bush with berries / yellow fire bushMirador de los Suspiros; first view of the GlacierPerito Moreno GlacierWalkway routes / Contrasting colours of the lake either side of the GlacierBoat trip2

    Perito Moreno Glacier

    November 24, 2023 in Argentina ⋅ ☁️ 3 °C

    We set off from El Calafate on the 80 km trip to Perito Moreno Glacier on a small van (10 people) at 9 am. We drive along Patagonian Steppe by Lago Argentino, the largest in the country; the arms of the lake form several peninsulars at the Andes, including that which enables the Perito Moreno Glacier. The weather is different on either side of the Andes.

    The lake is turquoise due to glacial sediment. Trees appear as we round the peninsula, and we stop at a mirador for our first view of the Glacier.

    We get there and walk along the excellent elevated walkways that are in place; this is a magnificent setting, and, once again, words and pictures can not do Perito Moreno Glacier justice. If you stop at one of the viewing points, after a while, you can see and hear ice and rock falling into the water. Amazing!

    We meet for the boat trip at 2 pm; this is also spectacular, getting up fairly close to the front of the Glacier.

    It has been a truly epic day.    Read more

  • Andrew's TravelsPatagonia AdventuresTraveler
    Resting on the bus
    Typical views; to the west / to the eastMines outside Rio TurbioViews of Puerto NatalesView from Garden DomesThe W-Trek in detailThe W-Trek in 3DThe W-Trek in 2DBrisket for dinner at El Brisket in townSunset at Garden Domes; thr fjord is connected to the Pacific Ocean.

    To Puerto Natales; The W-Trek Gateway

    November 25, 2023 in Chile ⋅ 🌬 12 °C

    We eventually set off about 7:30 am for the journey to Puero Natales, back in Chile, to start the W-Trek tomorrow morning. It's a lovely day (in Argentina), and we head south with views of the Andes and Steppe on the west (sometimes Steppe only) and Steppe on the east.

    More hilly as we got south and we passed several small mines - one conveyor belt ran for miles - as we approached the town of Rio Turbio in South West Argentinafor an early lunch stop; the border crossing was shortly after this. The crossing from Argentina into Chile took just over 3 hours it was extremely windy on either side.

    The 12 W-Trekkers are dropped off at the Garden Domes Hostel, Puerto Natales, 130 km from the Torres del Paine National Park, for the W-Trek tomorrow; our hosts are ChileTour Patagonia. What appears to be a lake is actually the end of a fjord connected to the Pacific Ocean.

    This is the plan....

    Day 1. Base of Towers of Paine Trek
    Day 2; Los Cuernos Trek
    Day 3; French Valley Trek
    Day 4; Grey Trail Trek

    I am looking forward to seeing the 2,800m granite peaks soaring above the Patagonian Steppe!

    Then it's out for dinner (included in the price).    Read more

  • Andrew's TravelsPatagonia AdventuresTraveler
    Views en routeTorres de Paine viewpoint1

    Puerto Natales to start of W-Trek

    November 26, 2023 in Chile ⋅ ☁️ 5 °C

    We set off for the 130 km journey to the park entrance by minibus just before 7 a.m.; It's windy, and it rains en route.. Rolling hills, reminiscent of Scotland (apparently), then snow-capped mountains. We stop for pictures at a mirador of the Torres before we reach the park entrance and then our drop-off point.Read more

  • Andrew's TravelsPatagonia AdventuresTraveler
    En route from Visitor Centre
    Up we goPaso de los VientosCondor / Typical valleyRefugio ChilenoThe difficult ascent startsBaso de los TorresThe A TeamRelaxing at Amarga Cabins / Sunset

    W-Trek Day 1; Torres de Paine Trek

    November 26, 2023 in Chile ⋅ ⛅ 3 °C

    There is a lot of uphill walking in this part of the W, and we can leave stuff on the minibus (eg, sleeping bags, clothes, etc) as we are with guides today.

    We are dropped off at the visitor centre after the main entrance and, after a while, turn off to head upwards. There are beautiful views of streams, valleys, and mountains. It is steep here, but we are lucky with the weather today; not surprisingly, it gets very windy along Paso de los Vientos! We reach Refugio Chileno, and then it is a difficult ascent to the Mirador base de las Torres; not as bad as that for Monte Fitz Roy, but still hard work. Well worth it, though, as we reach the top for the magnificent view of the granite towers.

    Then it is down - also hard work - and on the minibus again to our overnight at Laguna Amarga Cabins just outside the park. There is food, beer, wine, all included - and well deserved after the 22 km trekked today!    Read more

  • Andrew's TravelsPatagonia AdventuresTraveler
    View from, and of, Laguna Amarga Cabins
    Towards Los CuernosViews of the lakesView / FalconViews en routeTorres del Cuernos / View en routeGetting close to Camping FrancesOur tent at Camping Frances!

    W-Trek Day 2; Los Cuernos Trek

    November 27, 2023 in Chile ⋅ ☁️ 7 °C

    We are dropped off at the visitor centre again and walked the same route as yesterday for a while, but carry on to Los Cuernos instead of upwards to Los Torres. We are lucky with the weather again and enjoy great views in good sunshine. There is quite a lot of up and down, making this quite a hard slog at times, particularly on the approaches both to Refugio Cuernos and Camping Frances; total walking about 15 km today with a fully loaded rucksack! No wonder I was tired.....

    The campsite is in the woods, and all the tents are on stilts, but with a comfortable insert to sleep on; access is not easy, though. The food laid on for our group was nice, and it's an early night. It rained.    Read more

  • Andrew's TravelsPatagonia AdventuresTraveler
    Views en route to Frances Glacier
    View back to the lakeMirador Glacier FrancesGlacier FrancesRockfall at the GlacierViews from Britanico viewpointMirador Lago Skottsberg (in the pouring rain)Pain Grande campsite

    W-Trek Day 3; French Valley Trek

    November 28, 2023 in Chile ⋅ 🌧 6 °C

    It's a 6 am breakfast so that we can make the most of the morning. After 30 mins, we reach Camping Italiano, where we can leave the rucksack for the 5.5 km hike up to the Britanico viewpoint. On the way, we see Frances Glacier; there is a lot of noise as avalanches seem to be frequent. The weather is not good today, as it is raining. It is fairly flat for a while, but the ascent / scramble to the Britanico viewpoint is hard work. It's still raining, but it eases off for the descent back to Camping Italiano.

    An early lunch, rucksacks on, and it's 8 km to Pain Grande.... The weather takes a serious turn for the worse; it tips down, it's windy, and it's cold. I was soaked through and had to dig deep. Made it, but shivering.

    Overall, it was about 22 km today. Another big one tomorrow, and then the W-Trek is done!    Read more

  • Andrew's TravelsPatagonia AdventuresTraveler
    Views of the valley
    Dead treesLago los PatosGrey Lake: Note the two icebergsFirst view of the Grey GlacierMirador GreyThe A Team make the W sign

    W-Trek Day 4; Grey Trek

    November 29, 2023 in Chile ⋅ ☁️ 4 °C

    It was rather windy during the night, with several bouts of rainfall. The proposed early start didn't happen, but we were still away by 7:30 am!

    The weather isn't too bad as we head west before north up the valley. We pass the attractive Laguna Los Patos and start climbing. More great views, including the large Grey Lake, and eventually, we reach Mirador Grey for views of the Grey Glacier. Further down is Refugio Grey, but there is not enough time (or inclination?) to go further than the Mirador Grey viewpoint. It is incredibly windy at the Mirador, dangerously so, and the weather is closing in, so we head back to Pain Grande for an early lunch. We covered about 9 km this morning; it's been a good morning, and we have completed the W-Trek!

    Some downtime at Pain Grande before we take the prepaid catamaran to Pudeto for our lift back to Puerto Natales and back to the Garden Domes Hostel. It turned out to be a very long day, as our driver had to wait for the last catamaran to get everybody. Lovely views of lakes on the way back.

    Then it's a pizza party!    Read more

  • Andrew's TravelsPatagonia AdventuresTraveler
    Views en route to cross the Magellan Strait
    Austral Broom ferry crossing pointBoarding the ferrySalt flat on Tierra del FuegoThe windy campsiteSkirting the South Pacific Ocean in Argentine Tierra del FuegoThe Valley Road to UshuaiaThe Valley Road to UshuaiaArrival in Ushuaia

    En route to Ushuaia and Tierra del Fuego

    Dec 1–2, 2023 in Chile ⋅ 🌬 9 °C

    We set off after 8 a.m., only 15 people on the truck now as 5 have diverted to Antarctica for 10 days, and others have left to ensure more time in Ushuaia to catch flights. Sun shining at times as we head south on the Ruta del Fin del Mundo ( "Route to the end of the World") towards Tierra del Fuego ("Land of Fire").

    There is steppe on both sides of the road for most of the journey, but as we bypass Punta Arenas, we see the inlet that is connected to the South Pacific Ocean. There is a short ferry crossing at Austral Broom across the Magellan Strait to reach the Chilean part of the province of the island of Tierra del Fuego; a lot of traffic, and we had to wait an hour to board a ferry.

    It is mainly scrubland as we enter Tierra del Fuego, but there is the occasional salt flat here. We have a quick and late (2:45 pm) lunch stop at the small town of Cerro Sombrero before continuing south. We stop off at a small refugio near the coast for our wild/bush camp. It is very windy as we set up camp and prepare food (pasta). It was an early night, but not much sleep due to wind (outside) and cold. On our way before 7:30 to the border crossing at San Sebastian into Argentine Tierra del Fuego. More scrubland as we head south to Ushuaia, skirting the edge of the South Pacific Ocean, where there is the occasional settlement, before cutting across to Ushuaia - hills, trees and mountains in the background. There are valleys and more mountain views as we take the pass to Ushuaia, the most southerly city in the world.    Read more

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