• Andrew's Travels
Mar – Apr 2023

Sri Lanka

A photojournal of travels through Sri Lanka with Explore Travel on their "Sri Lanka in Depth" tour. Read more
  • Trip start
    March 26, 2023

    Negombo 1; Old Town, Market and Beach

    March 26, 2023 in Sri Lanka ⋅ ☀️ 30 °C

    We arrived at Colombo Airport after our flight from London and met our entire Explore Travel group (9 total) before transferring to our hotel in Negombo.

    Negombo is a popular start or finish place for tourists/travellers due to its proximity to the airport. It is a large fishing town with reminders of its colonial post; Portuguese, Dutch, and British Empire; in fact, we crossed the Dutch Canal on our way to town.

    After a short break, we (Helen and I) set out for a walk from the hotel to the Old Town. We see St Sebastian's Church, which is based on Reins Cathedral. Many local people in Negombo are Roman Catholic due to the activity of missionaries in the past. After passing a Hindu Temple, we visit St Mary's Church (also RC), and from here, we proceed to the vegetable market nearby.

    On the other side of the market, we reach the beach and walk back to the hotel; there are good views of local housing, distinctive fishing boats en route.

    After a rest, we meet up with the group and tour leader at our hotel rooftop bar for dinner and trip discussion.
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  • Negombo 2; Fish Market + Fishing Village

    March 27, 2023 in Sri Lanka ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C

    After a good night's sleep and breakfast, we load up the small coach and stop off at the Negombo Fish Market Complex. This is close to the vegetable market that we visited yesterday and is also extremely interesting.

    From here, we double back and leave Negombo heading north before stopping off at a local fishing village; it is no coincidence that we arrive on time to see local fishermen hauling in a catch from fixed nets on the beach. This is fantastic to see.

    From here, we head off to our next stop....
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  • En route to Wilpattu National Park

    March 27, 2023 in Sri Lanka ⋅ ⛅ 32 °C

    We stop off at a small coconut plantation just outside Negombo to see a toddy tapper in action; toddy is the fermented sap taken from the stems and stalks of coconut flowers using a knife and mallet and the tapper is the man doing it (high off the ground). It is collected in a container and used to make arrack, a local spirit. The sap is OK, but the arrack (as I found out later that evening) is a lot better!

    From here, we stopped off at Madampe to see a Hindu temple built and owned by a local wealthy person; unfortunately, it was closed for renovation.

    After a stop-off for lunch (an excellent Sri Lankan curry buffet), we proceed to Wilpatthu National Park.....
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  • Wilpattu National Park

    March 27, 2023 in Sri Lanka ⋅ ⛅ 33 °C

    We arrive at Wilpatthu National Park, which is noted for its many natural lakes (Willu). Although not the largest of the Sri Lankan National Parks, it is the oldest. Our group travels in two jeeps along the many trails here, and we are extremely fortunate as we see many of the threatened species that live here (see images and captions). Seeing the leopard was amazing, and it just sat there as the jeeps started up behind each other to stop and take pictures!

    It has been a great safari trip, and we head on to our hotel in Anurahadapura for a well-deserved beer with our meal.
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  • Anurahadpura

    March 28, 2023 in Sri Lanka ⋅ 🌩️ 28 °C

    The Cultural Triangle refers to the area between the former capitals of Anuradhapura, Polonnaruwa, and Kandy.

    Anuradhapura is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and was the first capital city in Sri Lanka; it was founded in 380 BC and abandoned in 1073 and has three of the largest stupas in the world. Tens of thousands of monks lived here in dozens of monasteries with a by-population, and many artificial reservoirs were built over this time. It was uncovered in the 19th century by British explorers. There are many small temple relics here, but we focused on selected main sites.

    The first one was the Sri Maha Bodhi or Sacred Bo Tree; possibly 2,200 years old, and grown from a sapling under which Buddha first gained enlightenment, it is now tended. Nearby is the Loda Pasada (Brazen Palace), formerly a nine storey residence for monks, but now reduced to about 1,600 pillars. The Ruwanweliseya (Maha Thupa or Great Stupa) is 55m high and constructed from over 100 million clay bricks; it is surrounded by full-size sculpted elephants. We walk around it (clockwise) and see the Buddha relics

    We see the Thuparama (the oldest stupa on site and in Sri Lanka) and the Lankarama Stupa. Then we see the Moonstone; these are placed at the bottoms of staircases to central places of worship and depict the stages of life.

    We now visit the Abhayagiri Monastery complex and see the main ruins - the Abhayagiri Stupa (the third largest here), the Samadhi Buddha, and the Kuttam Pokuna (Twin Ponds) - before moving on to the Jetavanaramaya Stupa (the second largest on the Anuradhapura site).

    It's been a great visit!
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  • Mihintale

    March 28, 2023 in Sri Lanka ⋅ ⛅ 33 °C

    Mihintale is revered as the birthplace of Buddhism in Sri Lanka as it is here where the monk Mahinda (the son of Asoka) met King Devanampiyatissa in 247 BC and introduced the religion to the country.

    We start at the second flight of steps, where the Dhatu Ghara relic house and the Mihintale Tablets are located; the tablets describe the rules and regulations for life as a monk. We continue up to the Ambasthala Dagoba (Mango Tree Stupa), which was the actual meeting place between them). Then it's up to see the Buddha statue and down again to cross over to ascend the Arahadana Gala, where there are great views of the whole area.

    Down again to then climb the main stupa here , the Mahaseya Dagoba; this houses a single hair relic of the Buddha.

    Another interesting excursion.
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  • Aukana Buddha and Dambulla Cave Temples

    March 29, 2023 in Sri Lanka ⋅ ☁️ 29 °C

    We stop off at the Standing Buddha of Aukana on our way to Dambulla; the statue is 13m rmtall, perfectly preserved, and was built in the 5th century BC.

    The Dambulla Caves are 1st century Buddhist Cave Temples built into the Dambulla rock and characterised by a granite overhang. They were built originally by King Valagambaku I in gratitude for regaining his throne and repaired and embellished in the 17th - 18th centuries when the murals and statues were added.Read more

  • Hurulu Eco-park

    March 29, 2023 in Sri Lanka ⋅ ☁️ 33 °C

    After leaving the Dambulla Caves Complex, we stop off for an excellent Sri Lankan buffet lunch.

    We then head to Hurulu to go on a Jeep safari in the eco-park, which is part of the Hurulu Forest Reserve and an important habitat for the Sri Lanka elephant.....Read more

  • Polonnaruwa

    March 30, 2023 in Sri Lanka ⋅ ⛅ 29 °C

    Polonnaruwa is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and was the second capital city in Sri Lanka; this was over the 11th -13th centuries, a period of flowering for Buddhist arts and architecture. It was abandoned in 1293 and excavated in the 20th century; many of the spectacular buildings and monuments still remain.

    We start start at the statue of King Parakramabahu I and move to his Royal Pakace and Council Chamber. The heart of the city is the Dalada Maluwa (Terrace of the Tooth Relic), popularly known as the Quadrangle. We see the buildings here (captions on pictures) and move north to see the to see the 12th century Rankot Vihara (Golden Pinnacle). Then it's the Gal Vihara rock sculptures, four Buddha statues hewn out of the Rock face.

    Another amazing citadel.
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  • Sirigiya Village Safari

    March 30, 2023 in Sri Lanka ⋅ ☀️ 34 °C

    After lunch, we arrived in Sigiriya and went on a tour of the village and local area by various means of transport; these were by a small tractor engine, boat and tuk-tuk.

    There were some great views, and we enjoyed a visit to a house for a demonstration food preparation using local products (coconut, rice, vegetables, etc).Read more

  • Sigiriya (Lion Rock)

    March 31, 2023 in Sri Lanka ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C

    Sigiriya (Lion Rock) is another UNESCO World Heritage Site, and the ancient Citadel of Sigiriya sat atop a giant gneiss Rock 200m above the plains below.

    Monks lived at the base in the third century BC, but King Kassapa put it on the map in the fifth century AD when he chose the summit for his new Royal Palace, complete with gardens and pools. The Rock was transformed into a recumbent Lion, of which only the paws remain today; unfortunately, his reign lasted just 18 years. The ruins were discovered by British archaeologists in the 20th century.

    The Lion Rock is accessed via the Water Gardens and Boulder Gardens, and the way up is via the Lion Platform. At the summit, there are the remains of the Palace and magnificent views of the countryside.

    On the way down, we pass the highly polished Mirror Wall covered with ancient graffiti and the celebrated Sigiriya Damsels; this is a mural of beautiful, bare chested women (no photographs allowed). Further down, we pass the Audience Hall Rock and the Cobra Hood Cave before getting back to the Lion Platform.
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  • Kandy 1; Market, Town and Lake

    April 1, 2023 in Sri Lanka ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

    Kandy has a long history of political independence and was the seat of the last Sinhalese government until it succumbed to the British in 1815. Kandy is a cultural centre, and the arts and crafts capital of the island; it is also home to its most revered Buddhist temple, its most sacred relic, and has a tradition of dancing and drumming.

    We start at the Clock Tower and visit the markets opposite it (on both sides of the road) before walking back to the lake. We pass the magnificent Queen's Hotel and visit St Paul's Church; this is close to three of Kandy's four devales - each of the four Guardian Gods for Kandy has a devale (temple) devoted to it and we visit the Pattini Devale (Goddess of Chastity).

    We then walk around the lake, enjoying great views; the lake was created in the 19th century, and this very popular stroll is about 3km in length.
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  • Kandy 2; Tooth Temple and Botanic Garden

    April 1, 2023 in Sri Lanka ⋅ ☀️ 32 °C

    The Temple of the Tooth (Dalada Maligawa) is the most important Buddhist temple in Sri Lanka as it is home to one of Buddhism's most sacred objects - the Tooth Relic. Legend has it that it was retrieved after the Buddha's cremation; it has been moved around Sri Lanka, but it has been kept in Kandy since 1592.

    It is to be found in a room above the main shrine, and the golden container that holds it can be seen three times per day as the doors are opened during the ceremonial puja. After seeing the main shrine and attending a puja, we visit The New Shrine Room, Museum, Audience Hall, Raha Tusker Museum (a stuffed elephant) and the Kings Palace, before leaving the complex.

    We visit a jewellery factory on our way to the Royal Botanic Gardens; they are the largest and finest in the country and very beautiful.
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  • Kandy 3; Kandyan Dancing Cultural Show

    April 1, 2023 in Sri Lanka ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

    We actually visited this the evening before, but it is convenient to describe it at the end of the Kandy posts.

    After a traditional welcome by the blowing of a conch shell and ceremonial drumming, the show starts and runs through several traditional dances (see captions on images); it finished with a display of fire walking outside the hall.

    It's great to see traditional Sri Lankan folk dancing, especially as I am a traditional English folk dancer myself (a Morris dancer).
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  • En route to Dalhousie

    April 2, 2023 in Sri Lanka

    From Kandy, we leave the Cultural Triangle and head to the Hill Country; this is a higher and cooler area where tea plantations stretch over rolling hills, and there are many tea factories. It was the British who spotted the potential here and helped transform Sri Lanka into the fourth largest tea producer in the world.

    Leaving Kandy, we visit a batik factory first and then drive to the Hill Country to visit a tea factory. It was interesting to see and hear about the stages in tea production (see image captions).

    We then drive through the beautiful countryside to Dalhousie (known also by its Tamil name of Nallatanniya), a popular starting place to climb Adam's Peak. It's an early start tomorrow, so it's an early meal and an early night.
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  • Adam's Peak; Ascent, Sunrise, Descent

    April 3, 2023 in Sri Lanka ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    Adam's Peak (Sri Pada) is 2,243m high and makes for dramatic scenery. There is said to be a footprint of the Buddha at the top, left during one of his three visits to Sri Lanka. Pilgrims and tourists make the arduous climb by night during the pilgrimage season (Dec to May) to see it and the sun rising at dawn.

    We are up in time for a 1:30 am departure and make the 7km ascent via 5,500 steps. It takes us at least 4 hours and is hard work. It's worth it to see the sun rise; the footprint is covered, and several metres below the place you "see" it, and no photographs in the shrine area are allowed. It was a fantastic and tiring experience with excellent views on the way down.
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  • En route to Nuwara Eliya

    April 3, 2023 in Sri Lanka ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    There are great views of tea plantations and tea pickers (always women) as we head to Nuwara Eliya. We stop for lunch at Tea Castle St. Clair on the way to our hotel; lunch is good, and there is a pretty waterfall nearby.

    Nuwara Eliya is referred to as "Little England" due to its cool and unpredictable climate. The Blackpool Hotel is located in the hills around Nuwara Eliya at 1,876m on the Pedro Tea Estate and is new but built in colonial style. It is a beautiful area and a lovely hotel.
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  • Nuwara Eliya

    April 4, 2023 in Sri Lanka

    The surrounding scenery and climate impressed the early British settlers after the heat and dust of Colombo, and Sir Edward Barnes, a former governor here, established his up-country retreat here as a bungalow in 1828 at what is now the Grand Hotel.

    It is a popular town, and we start our walk at the pink colonial era Post Office before heading through the covered Central Market. Then it is back to the town centre via the pretty Victoria Park. We walk by the new Bazaar to the Clock Tower and then past the Golf Club up to the Grand Hotel; we go in and are given a short tour downstairs. From the bungalow mentioned earlier, this is now a beautiful five-star hotel (costing 55,000 Rupees per night).

    The next stop is the train station....
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  • Nanu Oya to Demodora by train

    April 4, 2023 in Sri Lanka ⋅ 🌧 23 °C

    There is no train station at Ella, so we go to the nearby town of Nanu Oya to meet the train (which comes down from Kandy).

    It is a very pretty route passing through lovely scenery. We pass through our final destination, Ella, so that we can go over the Demodora Bridge (Nine Arch Bridge); this was built in the 1920s to take the railway line north of Ella.

    We are met at Demodora Station and taken back to Ella and our hotel. Dinner is at the Cafe Chill Restaurant; Ella is popular with young travellers, and there are many dining places.
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  • Ella to Uda Walawe

    April 5, 2023 in Sri Lanka ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C

    Ella is one of Hill Country's most popular destinations and is perched above the Ella Gap, a cleft in the escarpment where the land drops 1,100m to the plains below (it is possible to walk up to the Gap for the view).

    We stop at Ella Ravana Falls (90m high) and then reach Buduruvagala; this boasts 7 colossal Buddha statues dating from the 10th century.

    We descend to the lowlands below and note the very different landscape and vegetable produce before arriving on the outskirts of Uda Walawe National Park.
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  • Uda Walawe National Park and River Camp

    April 5, 2023 in Sri Lanka

    Uda Walawe National Park was established in 1972 and is now one of Sri Lanka's most popular parks, with a spread of 300 sq km, providing a catchment area around an enormous reservoir.

    We start our visit at the Elephant Transit Home, better known as the Elephant Orphanage; orphaned elephants are raised here until they are 4-5 years old and released into the wild. Feeding time is every 3 hours and can be watched from a viewing platform.

    We enjoy a Jeep safari around part of the park before going to Athgira River Camp to stay in a jungle lodge next to the Rajwana River.
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  • Galle

    April 6, 2023 in Sri Lanka ⋅ ☀️ 30 °C

    We leave the Lowland region and head to the South Coast region of Sri Lanka, an area that is firmly on the tourist trail for visitors to the island

    We visit Galle, the most important town of the South Coast. It is a perfectly preserved colonial town featuring an old Dutch quarter within a fort (Galle Fort) and a sprawling New Town outside it. We walk around the fort ramparts swing the various bastions (about 2 miles) with forays into the old town to see the buildings just below the ramparts (see captions on pictures).

    A beautiful place.
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  • Mirissa; whale watching

    April 7, 2023 in Sri Lanka ⋅ 🌙 25 °C

    We are up early to go on the optional whale watching tour from Mirissa (the whale watching capital of Sri Lanka). The unspoilt town also features a very pretty harbour and beach.

    We spend about 4 hours on the sea and spot Bryde whales and Spinner dolphins on several different occasions. A wonderful experience.

    Then it's back to the hotel in Koggala for some RnR.
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  • Koggala and local area

    April 7, 2023 in Sri Lanka ⋅ ☀️ 32 °C

    After the whale watching and a swim in the sea, it is time to have a beach walk; there are beautiful views on the way to the Koggala Lagoon.

    Back to the hotel for a break and the next excursion, which, by coincidence, turns out to be where from where my walk ended!

    Our Koggala Lake Safari takes us round part of the lagoon, where there are 8 islands surrounded by lush mangroves, a haven for wildlife. We visit a monastery as well as Cinnamon Island, where we see how cinnamon is obtained from the trees.

    Back on the beach area near Weligama, we see stilt fishermen; the stilts are carved with notches to help them climb to the crossbar, where they balance as they fish.
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  • Colombo 1; Central and Pettah

    April 8, 2023 in Sri Lanka

    Colombo is the commercial centre of Sri Lanka, owing to its natural harbour.  It reached prominence when the Portuguese invaded Sri Lanka in 1517, building a large fort here (it no longer exists now).  The Dutch took control of the island in 1656 and ruled for 150 years before the British captured it in 1796; Colombo became the capital of Ceylon in 1815.  The Civil War from 1983 - 2009 between the Tamil Tigers (who migrated here during British role) and the native Sinhalese caused a lot of destruction in the city, and it is being rebuilt in parts.

    After a 2 hour journey from Koggala, our coach takes us through the Central area where we visit the Independance Memorial Hall and drive past the Vihara Mahadevi Park (formerly Victoria Park) to reach the Gangaramaya Temple; this is one of the most important temples in Colombo, and is  an eclectic mix of Sri Lankan, Thai, Indian, and Chinese architecture and includes a museum, a library, a residential hall and a three storeyed Pirivena. Located on the Beira Lake, it was completed in the late 19th century and is now a place of Buddhist worship and a learning centre.

    We reach Pettah and enjoy walking around what is the chaotic market / bazaar neighbourhood of Colombo (see captions on photos).
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