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Camino de Santiago 2024
  • Kurt Bonhamer
  • Kurt Bonhamer

Camino de Santiago 2024

A 36-day adventure by Kurt Read more
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  • Trip start
    April 22, 2024
    Kurt BonhamerCamino de Santiago 2024Traveler

    Saint Jean Pied de Port

    April 20, 2024 in France ⋅ ⛅ 64 °F

    It’s actually happening! My Camino is about to begin. Today I explored the town, made some last minute preparations and enjoyed dinner with a new friend. Tomorrow the Pyrenees awaits.

  • Kurt BonhamerCamino de Santiago 2024Traveler

    Orisson

    April 22, 2024 in France ⋅ ☁️ 48 °F

    Day 1 is in the books. It was a tough climb for this Floridian, who considers a speed bump a hill, but I made it. The first mile had me wondering what I got into, but slow and steady got me here safely. The scenery was straight out of a postcard as I passed several fields and farms as I ascended the mountain. From here, I can see back down to St. Jean

    Tonight I’ll enjoy a group dinner with everyone staying here. There are talks of snow tomorrow as we cross into Spain.    Read more

  • Kurt BonhamerCamino de Santiago 2024Traveler

    Roncevalles

    April 23, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 37 °F

    I made it across the Pyrenees and into Spain today… it snowed the whole time and I loved it. We woke up to dark skies and. Just as we left at 8:00 it began to snow. Someone recommended using an extra pair of as mittens-which was brilliant
    .
    Today was a longer walk than yesterday, but not as steep, so I only had to stop when I took some pics. For most pilgrims today’s walk has rolling green fields, Mountain View’s that stretch across the horizon, flocks of sheep and goats and herds of horses. While only got to see one herd of horses, having the contrast between yesterday and today and being able to say I crossed the Pyrenees in a snowstorm makes me smile and will be something I will treasure forever.

    Dinner last night at Orisson was a great as everyone introduces themselves, where they were from, and why they were here. Our room had 3 bunks and all of us got along great - 3 Australians, 2 Americans, and a Dutch.    Read more

  • Kurt BonhamerCamino de Santiago 2024Traveler
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    Zubiri

    April 24, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 48 °F

    Today’s walked started with more heavy snow for the first hour or so, which then switched to a light drizzle for the next few hours. Today was the first day we passed through several small villages, allowing us to warm up with a cup of coffee before continuing on. The last 3 miles were downhill on rock and mud, making for a challenging, slow descent into Zubiri.

    Last night’s dinner (and visit to the bar) was another chance to catch-up with some people I’ve seen along the way and to meet some friends. After dinner we attended a Catholic mass - I think the service said in Basque.    Read more

  • Kurt BonhamerCamino de Santiago 2024Traveler

    Pamplona

    April 25, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 55 °F

    Today was the easiet walk yet - about 12 miles, and relatively flat. It rained for the first hour. Along the way I stopped for coffee and met 4 of the 5 bunk mates from my first night in Orison. One of the women from the group was a dinner last night and has a music degree. She agreed to sing if we had a guitar. One was found after dinner and another at the coffee shop today.
    A pinch was planned for today, but didn’t happen. I carried a bottle of wine and bread, other carried some meat and cheeses we bought at a local grocery… at least I got the wine!!!

    Off to eat pinchos (what we call tapas) and see the walled city.    Read more

  • Kurt BonhamerCamino de Santiago 2024Traveler
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    Uterga

    April 26, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 59 °F

    Got a late start this morning to see some of Pamplona including the bullfighting arena/statute and to have breakfast at the bar frequented by Ernest Hemingway, for breakfast. After saying bye to my friends who are taking a rest day, I continued to Utegra, which included a 600 foot climb over a windmill filled ridge to see the Alto de Pardon sculpture at the top. Great scenery of green fields and small villages along the way.
    I plan to take a short day tomorrow and my friends hope to catch up, but I am learning that the pilgrims you meet along the way come and go without notice. It almost seems that once you bond enough to get a photo or connect on WhatsApp, something causes them to get on a different schedule…. All part of it.    Read more

  • Kurt BonhamerCamino de Santiago 2024Traveler
    1

    Cirauqui

    April 27, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 61 °F

    Short day today, only 8.5 miles, to the Basque village of Cirauqui (Zirauki). Along the way it rained on and off throughout the morning, but made for a beautiful double rainbow along the way. The medieval city of Puente de Rina, was filled with magnificent stone architecture, including the famous Queen’s Bridge.

    Tonight, I plan to reunite with some fellow pilgrims from Day 1.    Read more

  • Kurt BonhamerCamino de Santiago 2024Traveler

    Cirauqui II

    April 27, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 59 °F

    The town was shut down most of the day for a local festival. Following dinner the local band with trumpets , drums, and saxophones marched through the streets to the central square where a small midway and music stage were setup. While most pilgrims went to the dorm rooms to go to sleep, a couple of us hung out with the locals in the square. Another unexpected moment of fun release and a break from the typical grind. 🙅‍♂️🎤🕺 💃🏻Read more

  • Kurt BonhamerCamino de Santiago 2024Traveler

    Estella

    April 28, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 61 °F

    Day 7 in the books! Short walk today into Eatella, my left knee is a little tender. I walked through more fields of canola today. Enjoy my horrible attempt to capture them in selfies during my first day of sunshine in 6 days 😂
    Tomorrow I plan on shipping some items ahead to lighten my load and help my knee a little.    Read more

  • Kurt BonhamerCamino de Santiago 2024Traveler

    Torres del Rio

    April 29, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 63 °F

    Today was a 30k day! (18 miles). The knee feels great. The terrain was flat making for easy travel. It was the first day I was able to get in my head and think about things, rather than constantly focusing on the terrain and weather.
    20 minutes into the day I passed the famous wine fountain, which has been providing wine to pilgrims for centuries.
    I did take “an alternate” route as a result of misreading a split in the trail, but it met back up on the other side of a village.
    Vineyards are starting to replace the canola, barley and peas I’ve been seeing. I did try another canola field selfie, which I haven’t looked at - let’s see how it turned out 😂    Read more

  • Kurt BonhamerCamino de Santiago 2024Traveler

    Logrono

    April 30, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 68 °F

    Walked to Logrono today. Yesterday’s hostel in Torres’s del Rio left much to be desired - the bunk beds seemed to be out of a WWII Army surplus store, the host was obnoxious and the dinner was salad and pasta - which somehow tasted awful.
    My knee continues to feel good. After walking into town I was able to get a much needed haircut.
    I’m in middle of a large wave of pilgrims moving along the Camino, so booking a room is starting to be more of a challenge and takes more calls/messages than the first week did. Tomorrow is also a national holiday, adding to the challenge. If this is my biggest issue, things are good!
    Walking into Logrono a number of us noticed black smoke rising in the city - we thought it was a large fire, until we reached the edge of the city and noticed we were walking by the municipal crematorium, the source of the smoke. What a welcome!
    The restaurant I was at for dinner was giving away funny glasses… maybe it will be my new eye mask at night 😂    Read more

  • Kurt BonhamerCamino de Santiago 2024Traveler
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    Nájera

    May 1, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 54 °F

    Another 30k day in the books. The walk leaving Logroño was wonderful as the Camino went through a city park and greenway for what seemed like an hour and a half filled with ducks and inquisitive red squirrels, my first sighting this trip.
    My muscles no longer hurt after walking this far. The relatively flat terrain and well marked trail allowed me to truly enjoy the experience and relax in a way I haven’t been able to before.
    Today is Labor Day in Spain so the square in Nájera is setup with some vendors, falcons, and small games for the kids to play.    Read more

  • Kurt BonhamerCamino de Santiago 2024Traveler
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    1

    Santo Domingo de la Calzada

    May 2, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 55 °F

    The landscape out of Najera was red clay formations that reminded me of the Southwestern U.S. after that it was windy all day which stung after a while. I’m sure you’re tired of seeing similar landscapes, but I promise it will change soon. Towards the end of my walk, a dog was punching through one of the fields, which we all enjoyed watching - who wouldn’t 🤷‍♂️Read more

  • Kurt BonhamerCamino de Santiago 2024Traveler
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    Belorado

    May 3, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 57 °F

    Another windy day. I continue to feel strong and the smaller hills do not feel as challenging as they did the first few days.
    I have my daily routine pretty well set, even though I tend to be a “late” pilgrim - getting up around 6:30-7:00 most days. I crossed into the Castile and Leon region of Spain - a larger area I will be in for at least the next 2 weeks.
    Reflected a lot on my friends (and family) today. If you’re reading this, you were thought of. And thank you for being part of my life.
    The dog video didn’t post correctly yesterday, so I reposted it. He was so happy!    Read more

  • Kurt BonhamerCamino de Santiago 2024Traveler

    Agés

    May 4, 2024 in Spain ⋅ 🌬 64 °F

    Over 150 miles walked and 1/3 of the way to Santiago. It’s been a few days since my muscles have ached from a walk, but today’s walk did it. After second breakfast (yes, that’s a thing here) was a long climb that took an hour, and the wind continued the whole time. Near the top of the hill was a touching memorial for a mass grave where 300 political dissidents were killed during the Spanish Civil War. Another sad reminder of how we treat each other.
    After an equally long descent I reached the next town. I ordered a smoothie - sounded refreshing - but I was told it would take 20 minutes so I grabbed a Coke. To my surprise the smoothie arrived soon after, making for an odd lunch pairing.
    I’m spending the next 3 nights in alburgues. Last night’s felt like a sauna, tonight’s seems to be more comfortable.    Read more

  • Kurt BonhamerCamino de Santiago 2024Traveler
    1

    Burgos

    May 5, 2024 in Spain ⋅ 🌬 61 °F

    It rained most of the morning, which made the landscape seem like Scotland to me. Around 10:30 it stopped raining and I had nice conversation with a woman from Germany as we walked along the river into Burgos. The cathedral in Burgos is amazing. I think hence walked another 6 miles to meet a friend from day 1 for lunch. It was nice to catch-up with her and watch our food get grilled in a wood-burning oven. I forgot I had a private room tonight which was a pleasant surprise after a long day an albergue a for the last few nights.Read more

  • Kurt BonhamerCamino de Santiago 2024Traveler
    111

    Castrojeriz

    May 6, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 61 °F

    Long day today and anticipated for tomorrow. The larger wave of pilgrims I am in the middle of is making beds harder and harder to find.
    I unexpectedly ran into a pilgrim as I was getting ready to leave Burgos and grabbing picture of the cathedral and city gate. . I first Britney at the Minneapolis airport on my way over to the Camino and we walked together or the first week. It was nice to catch-up with a coffee.
    After lunch I reached the Meseta -a large plain with very few trees or shade. This will be the landscape for the next few days. It is a challenging section to walk in the summer heat, as there as few towns for long stretches.
    I had a great dinner tonight - Korean food, a welcome change.    Read more

  • Kurt BonhamerCamino de Santiago 2024Traveler

    Villarmentero de Campos

    May 7, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 64 °F

    Long day -over 20 miles down. Today was the first day I really didn’t want to put on the backpack and it felt heavy when I did. Leaving town the was a decent climb and then descent back onto the Meseta.
    My attitude improved after realizing the climb was easier than expected. But the miles dragged on and I didn’t reach my destination until 5:00. I had to walk this far because there weren’t any rooms in the 2 previous town.
    The alburgue I’m staying at is on a farm in an agricultural town. A burro and a goose were drying to eat the pilgrim’s laundry as it dries on the clothes line.    Read more

  • Kurt BonhamerCamino de Santiago 2024Traveler

    Calzadilla de la Cueza

    May 8, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 68 °F

    Today was a slightly shorter walk and relatively flat, making for an easier day. There was little shade and after the first town 5 miles in, only one food truck for the rest of the 18 miles. Walking into town early in the afternoon felt good, as did some chorizo and eggs for lunch.

    Walking west has given my left arm quite the tan. Maybe I’ll start walking backwards to even it out 🤔

    Getting into town early allowed me to book my accommodations for the next few nights, including a rest day in Leon, which I’m looking forward to.    Read more

  • Kurt BonhamerCamino de Santiago 2024Traveler
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    Bercianos del Real Camino

    May 9, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 72 °F

    Woke up before sunrise and started walking. It felt good to get some of the walk in before early in the day.
    At the monastery in Sahagún I received by certificate for making it halfway… nice, but that’s not the one I’m aiming for.
    After arriving in the alburgue in the afternoon - it was the standard ritual of shower, hand-washing laundry, then sitting in my bed for a few minutes to look at the guide book and plan the next day, before dinner.    Read more

  • Kurt BonhamerCamino de Santiago 2024Traveler

    Puente Villarente

    May 10, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 72 °F

    Today was the last long stretch for a few days, as I’m now setup for a short day tomorrow and rest day on Sunday. The landscape included more stretches of open fields, followed by some patches of trees as we crossed small streams. The banks of one river was lined with cattle.
    To the north we can still see snow capped mountains.

    The church steeple in Reliegos was filled with storks nests on all four sides. To be honest it looked creepy as they constantly circled and landed the area.

    The walk into Puente Villarente included an ancient 20 arch bridge. Even better though, it was nice to spend a few hours in the garden enjoying the beautiful weather and a cold beer.

    I’m excited and ready for Leon!    Read more

  • Kurt BonhamerCamino de Santiago 2024Traveler

    León

    May 11, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 70 °F

    The short walk to León was not the most beautiful, but it was short. After arriving, my friend Kate and I visited a local market and bought some fruit, cheese, and chorizo. We then went around the block to the bakery for a loaf of bread, then got a bottle of wine. Then we enjoyed a chorizo and cheese sandwich picinic best to the cathedral. It was a happy and relaxing lunch - and all for $20.
    After a brief siesta we toured the old city then joined some other pilgrims for a tapas tour through the neighborhood. Quite an enjoyable day - even better knowing tomorrow is a rest day!    Read more

  • Kurt BonhamerCamino de Santiago 2024Traveler
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    León II

    May 12, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 72 °F

    It was amazing to just be in a city today. After touring the beautiful cathedral, some of us attended mass. Then we had a relaxing afternoon eating delicious food.
    Then the reality hit and we performed our daily tasks of laundry and planning where to stay for the next few nights..
    The evening was spent eating the rest of our picinic food with some new friends in the kitchen of our alburgue. Tomorrow - back to walking.    Read more

  • Kurt BonhamerCamino de Santiago 2024Traveler

    Saint Martin del Camino

    May 13, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 64 °F

    I don’t really know how to describe today… it was a walk out of a city (León) and then along the said of a highway. So far the least exciting and least photogenic day on the Camino. I can see the next mountain range in the distance and should reach it on Thursday. I’m in good spirits and can’t believe we are all starting to plan our final 2 weeks.Read more

  • Kurt BonhamerCamino de Santiago 2024Traveler
    1

    Astorga

    May 14, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 55 °F

    It looked like another day walking along the side of the road was in store, but 10 km we crossed a bridge famous for medieval battles, including El Cid’s. An alternate trail appeared that passed some farmland and rolling hills. It was a welcome change of scenery, even though it added a few kilometers to the day. It continues to amaze me as the remaining kilometers tick away on the signposts.

    The last few kilometers in Astorga has strong winds that pushed in dark clouds, but we only received a slight drizzle. The next mountain range continues to grow closer and at least 2 climbs loom later this week before reaching the final region - Gallacia.

    Looks like another nice alburgue tonight. Last night had creaky bunk beds, thin walls, and several loud snorers.
    Friends continue to come and go each day as breaks, health, lodging, and daily distance limits continue to be factors for everyone. I’m not sure who I’ll walk into Santiago with at the end.    Read more

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