Day 19- Povoa de Varzim to ESPOSENDE

Bob’s view of today’s Camino route was much the same as mine, at least until we separated onto different paths for part of the journey.

Today’s venture was just slightly shorter but in many ways a very different view of the northern Portugal coastal area.  Bob followed the Coastal Route but lost track of Gina and I at about halfway due to Bob walking further ahead of us, and they taking a turn and following a leg of what’s known as the Litoral Route.  That separated us for about 2 hours.  More on the differences later.
But any route that follows the coastline is sure to be pleasant.  With cool breezes and the sounds of surf crashing against the shore, we walked north, again along kilometers of coastal boardwalk, past rock formations, areas where the shore break of the waves was iintense.  Definitely  not a beach area set up for swimming although sections did have some great sand beaches.  The boardwalk took us past a couple of  old windmills, probably ones that hadn’t been used in a very long time and missing the sails . In many places the boardwalk took us along long stretches of the back side of coastal dunes, making the temperature a little warmer and showing a greater diversity of foliage.  Crossing several streams (ok, they may have been considered rivers) there were ducks and ducklings, a  frog symphony similar in sound to yesterday’s but not so visible, and trails wandering past a large sports club soccer facility.  Continting further, there were acres and acres of greenhouse facilities, and in places where you could peak through the plastic they held quite the assortment of tomatoes, leafy greens, beans, and in some cases a variety of flowers.
Moving inland a little further , we passed views of a couple of golf courses, uncrowded and looking like some very nice holes.  At that point the boardwalk ended for Bob as he took the marked coastal route although it went inland a bit.  Another route, called the Litoral, stayed along a boardwalk and closer to the coast was where Gina and I separated from Bob ( unknowingly).  Bob stopped for a quick cool drink at the yellow sail-less windmill thinking we would would be along somewhat shortly, and after a while we both texted asking each other where the other was.  Gina and Sue had made a left where I had gone straight.

Gina and my coastal Litoral Route was filled with breathtaking sand dunes covered in beautiful vegetation, along with countless farms growing lettuce, tomatoes, and so many other vegetables. Along the way, we came upon a charming fishing village where locals were buying fresh fish for dinner. Some of the fish were still alive, and the octopus looked especially sad lying on display.

Gina and I continued through beautiful neighborhoods that reminded me so much of Carmel-by-the-Sea with their coastal charm and lovely homes. Eventually, we rejoined the other coastal route, where we happily ran into Bob. We sat together for a while, enjoying a drink and the sandwiches we had made at breakfast — a perfect little break along the journey.

Bob’s inland route took him off the boardwalk and on to both cobblestone streets, dirt paths, and through areas dotted with farms, pastures, fields of flowers, and more farm vegetation.  Even the star thistle had beautiful purple flowers.
Winding through some smaller residential areas  (complete with sculptures and figurines in the front yard) and passing a church and school in a town called Apula,  as well as several random pilgrim memorials or places of intention (collections of hand drawn stones, collections of shells, ribbons, etc) where pilgrims left their possessions or areas of remembrance or release. 
It does seem that the Portugese do love their shrines or statues as well, noting statues of saints and homage to historical figures and daily life. 
Entering the town of Fao, there were again simpler  churches, parks, and small town streets with ornate but also simple homes (many characterized by the Portugese use of ceramic tiles that we have seen again and again).
Bob went past a busy main fire department, complete with a working 1931 Model T firetruck and came to a corner near the Lima River where we all rejoined and stopped for a quick beverage before tackling the last 2 miles.  Crossing the river we walked into Esposende and down a trail that took us  along the river to our hotel, a nice place which was definitely upscale compared to last night’s.  In need of a quick shower and time to put together the photo collection, time was taken before walking down to the town center, checking out shops, and looking inside the church.  Back to the hotel for dinner, relaxation, hopefully sleep, and then the longer journey tomorrow to Viana do Castelo.
Buom dio!Read more