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Camino Portugués 2026
  • Bob Oetken
  • Sue Oetken
  • Bob Oetken
  • Sue Oetken

Camino Portugués 2026

Bob & Sue tarafından 48 günlük bir macera Okumaya devam et
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  • Gezinin başlangıcı
    3 Mayıs 2026
    Camino Portugués 2026
    11

    Day 1- Let the adventure begin

    3 Mayıs, Amerika Birleşik Devletleri ⋅ ☁️ 63 °F

    Waiting at San Francisco International Airport for our flight to Atlanta, then onward to Madrid. The adventure begins—next stop, Spain! ✈️🇪🇸

    Well, we finally made it to San Sebastián—our home for the next three days!

    We left home Sunday morning at 6:30am, and by the time we settled in, it was 10:15pm here in Spain (1:15pm Pacific). A long day of travel, but everything went smoothly. Customs in Madrid was surprisingly quick—less than 10 minutes—even with a small hiccup when my fingerprints wouldn’t scan and I had to check in with an officer.

    From there, we took a taxi to the train station and caught a slower train to San Sebastián. It was about a five-hour ride, but honestly, it was perfect—time to relax, nap a little, and take in the scenery.

    Arriving in San Sebastián was incredible—the city is absolutely beautiful. After checking into our hotel, we headed straight to the beach and caught a stunning sunset. Then, hungry from the long day, we found a local bar and enjoyed some pintxos and a nice glass of wine.

    Our only misstep? Walking back to the hotel in what turned out to be pouring rain—we didn’t realize how hard it was coming down until we were already committed. By the time we got back, we were completely soaked! Hot showers and a cozy end to a long travel day were exactly what we needed.

    Can’t wait to explore more of this beautiful town tomorrow. Hasta mañana!    Okumaya devam et

    Çeviriyi gör
  • Camino Portugués 2026

    Day 2 - San Sebastián!

    5 Mayıs, Ispanya ⋅ ⛅ 55 °F

    Today we started our day with a wonderful breakfast before heading out to explore the city. As we wandered through the streets, the ornate architecture instantly reminded me of Recoleta in Argentina.

    We visited the Cathedral of the Good Shepherd (Catedral del Buen Pastor), the main cathedral in San Sebastián. Inaugurated in 1897 and designed in a beautiful Neo-Gothic style, it’s the largest religious building in the city, with a striking 75-meter steeple and an oincredible organ boasting over 9,500 pipes.

    From there, we made our way to the iconic María Cristina Bridge, built in 1905. Its elegant design, with four towering obelisks topped by sculptures, makes it one of the most recognizable landmarks in the city.

    We then strolled along La Concha Bay, whose name means “The Shell,” perfectly describing its shape. The bay separates the city from the Cantabrian Sea and is home to La Concha Beach, Ondarreta Beach, and Santa Clara Island. The promenade was absolutely beautiful, and we even walked up to the summer home of Queen Maria Christina.

    As we were walking back to our hotel, we stopped at a small restaurant to enjoy a coffee and tea—and the timing couldn’t have been better. Just as we settled in under the awning, another downpour began. We sat there, warm drinks in hand, watching the rain fall …. a perfect, peaceful moment to end the our walk.

    In the early evening, we met up with our friend Kerri, who will be volunteering with us in Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port at the pilgrim office. We wandered into the old town to enjoy tapas and some lovely wine—great food, even better conversation.

    Now it’s time to rest so we can explore more tomorrow. Buenas noches!    Okumaya devam et

    Çeviriyi gör
  • Camino Portugués 2026

    Day 3- Wonderful day in San Sebastián

    6 Mayıs, Ispanya ⋅ 🌙 57 °F

    Rain or shine, nothing stopped us from exploring this beautiful town. We started the day with a leisurely breakfast before heading out for a hike up to the Christ on the hill. The climb was both easy and steep in parts, made even more memorable by the steady rain coming down as we made our way up.

    At the top, we were greeted by an impressive fortress rich in history. The city enjoyed a few centuries of relative peace before being besieged by Franco-Portuguese troops in 1476, and the fortress played a key role in sheltering its inhabitants during the attack. Afterward, the Catholic Monarchs ordered it to be further fortified. Standing above it all is the Sagrado Corazón (Sacred Heart) statue atop Monte Urgull—a 12.5-meter (about 45-foot) sandstone and concrete monument inaugurated in 1950. It’s a powerful symbol of peace, faith, and protection over the city, often referred to as the “Christ of Corcovado” of the Basque Country.

    After our hike, we stopped at a local bar for a delicious appetizer and drink—well deserved! We spent some time wandering through the Old Town, picking up a few little treasures, before heading back to the hotel for a relaxing nap.

    Later, we decided to head out to dinner and were thrilled to see the sun finally shining—clear skies at last. We chose a restaurant called Ganbara,  a Michelin Guide 2026 spot, and it absolutely did not disappoint. Knowing how popular it is, we arrived about 40 minutes before opening. We were the fourth group in line, but by the time the doors opened, the line had wrapped around the corner.

    We enjoyed local txakoli wine (so good!) and ordered a variety of plates to share—each one better than the last. After dinner, we took a long walk along the promenade and watched the sunset, which wasn’t until around 9:00 pm. It was the perfect ending to a wonderful day in San Sebastián.    Okumaya devam et

    Çeviriyi gör
  • Camino Portugués 2026

    Day 4 - San Sebastián to Biarritz

    7 Mayıs, Ispanya ⋅ ☀️ 63 °F

    We had another calm morning with breakfast and a walk around town.

    We visited a wonderful market today that had anything you could possibly desire — fresh fish, meats, pasta, vegetables, fruit, and so much more. The amount of fresh products available was unbelievable. I would absolutely love to have something like this all in one place back home.

    Afterward, we walked to the old town where I sat on a bench for a while just enjoying a little people watching. It was so peaceful and relaxing, one of those simple moments you really appreciate while traveling.

    We checked out of our hotel and walked to the bus station to catch our bus to Biarritz, France. The one-hour bus ride took us through the beautiful French countryside, and the scenery along the way was just lovely.

    We arrived in Biarritz around 4:00 and made the walk to our hotel with luggage in tow. What a beautiful town! Once we got settled, we headed out for a walk along the promenade and visited the beautiful St. Augustine Church. Right next door was a cozy restaurant where we stopped for a drink — I enjoyed my favorite gin and tonic (yummy!).

    Afterward, we wandered down to the fishing dock for a delicious seafood dinner. We started with sardines for an appetizer, and they were so tasty. By the ocean it turned quite chilly, so we hurried back to our hotel to warm up for the night.

    Tomorrow we’ll head out early to explore more of this beautiful town.

    Bonne Nuit!    Okumaya devam et

    Çeviriyi gör
  • Camino Portugués 2026

    Day 5 - Biarritz

    8 Mayıs, Fransa ⋅ ☁️ 63 °F

    Today we spent the entire day exploring this beautiful beach town of Biarritz. We first headed out for a nice cup of coffee and discovered a wonderful market in Old Town. The Halles market area truly feels like the social heart of the city, where locals gather for fresh seafood, cheeses, meats, produce, and all kinds of Basque specialties. There was also an outdoor artisan market filled with local goodies. I somehow refrained from buying everything in sight — and those who know me know that was a huge sacrifice! Haha.

    After the market, we started walking down the coast. The promenade in Biarritz is famous for its dramatic ocean views, and lively seaside atmosphere along the Bay of Biscay. The scenery was absolutely breathtaking with rugged cliffs, sandy beaches, crashing waves, and surfers everywhere. Walking along the promenade, you pass landmarks like the Hôtel du Palais, originally built as the summer palace of Empress Eugénie and Napoleon III.

    Biarritz is considered the birthplace of surfing in Europe, and it was so fun watching surfers ride the waves throughout the day. We stopped at a café right across from the ocean where I enjoyed a smoothie that I really needed after all the walking. As I sat there, I realized the café was named Carlos, which made me smile.

    We continued farther down the coast and came upon the beautiful statue of the Virgin Mary sitting high on a rock overlooking the Atlantic. The Rocher de la Vierge is one of the most important symbols of Biarritz and has deep ties to the town’s fishing history. According to local legend, fishermen caught in a violent storm were guided safely home by a mysterious light that appeared on the rock. In gratitude, the statue of the Virgin Mary was placed there in 1865 to protect sailors and fishermen.

    After all that exploring, we decided to head back to the hotel for a little rest and a nice afternoon nap.

    In the early evening, we headed back out and walked along the coast again to Grande Plage, Biarritz’s main beach lined with grand hotels and cafés. The promenade became fashionable in the 19th century when European royalty began vacationing here. We sat at one of the cafés, enjoyed a drink, and spent some time people watching while listening to the sound of the ocean.

    We ended up walking over 7 miles today, so before calling it a night, we treated ourselves to some ice cream — so yummy!

    Now it’s time to relax and get up early for our last day in Biarritz ❤️    Okumaya devam et

    Çeviriyi gör
  • Camino Portugués 2026

    Day 6 - Biarritz >StJeanPieddePort

    10 Mayıs, Fransa ⋅ ☁️ 70 °F

    Today was our last day in Biarritz. What a wonderful city — we truly enjoyed exploring every bit within walking distance. We even became quite good at figuring out the bus schedules (well, Gina did all the legwork — I just followed along!).

    We started the day with coffee at our favorite café and had a lovely conversation with a few people from Canada. The young man with them is a professional tennis player, which made for an interesting chat. We also spent our final couple of hours strolling along the beach. So many people were out enjoying the sunshine, and the weather could not have been more perfect.

    Around 12:30 PM, we left our hotel and took the bus to the train station, where we boarded the train to Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port. The scenery along the way was spectacular — rivers, farms, and the mountains made for a beautiful journey.

    Once we arrived in town, we had to walk uphill with our suitcases to reach our accommodation, which was not the most enjoyable part of the day! I hope our suitcases hold up on the roughed streets here in town. We are staying in an albergue and sleeping in bunk beds — all part of the Camino experience.

    This evening, we will enjoy dinner with the other pilgrims staying here, and in the morning we begin volunteering at the Pilgrims Office for the entire week. We are really looking forward to meeting people from all over the world and helping them begin their Camino adventure.    Okumaya devam et

    Çeviriyi gör
  • Camino Portugués 2026

    Day 7-14 St. Jean Pied de Port

    11 Mayıs, Fransa ⋅ ☁️ 66 °F

    What a week!

    I spent May 10-18 volunteering at the Pilgrims Office in Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port, France. The first night we stayed at an albergue. I was lucky and got the bottom bed of the bunk bed . At dinner time we shared a nice meal with other pilgrims staying there , enjoyed sharing stories and singing.

    It was such a rewarding experience helping pilgrims who were beginning their Camino adventure. Some pilgrims were actually walking all the way from Holland, Germany, and many other countries before even reaching St. Jean!

    I met so many wonderful people from around the world. I was able to use my Spanish to help translate, and the translation app became my best friend when communicating with pilgrims from China, South Korea, Japan, and many other countries. It was amazing to see how people from all over the world could connect through the Camino spirit.

    The hours were long, but incredibly rewarding. We had an all-girl team, and we shared so many laughs and memorable moments together.

    During the week, a huge storm rolled through the mountains and snow fell at very low elevations. Because of the dangerous conditions, we had to strongly recommend that pilgrims take the lower Pyrenees route instead of the Napoleon Route. Some brave pilgrims still crossed through the mountains and later sent photos — it looked absolutely freezing, windy, and miserable.

    Today Gina and I are traveling to Porto via Madrid, where we will meet Bob and begin our next adventure together on the Portuguese Camino.

    Can’t wait for what’s ahead    Okumaya devam et

    Çeviriyi gör
  • Camino Portugués 2026

    Day 15 - SJDP to Porto, Portugal

    18 Mayıs, Fransa ⋅ ☁️ 59 °F

    On May 18th, Gina and I traveled to Pamplona by bus. Along the way, we saw many of the pilgrims we had helped at the Pilgrim’s Office making their way along the Valcarlos route. The bus ride took about an hour and a half, and when we arrived in Pamplona, we treated ourselves to a delicious lunch.

    After lunch, we decided to head to the airport early so we would have plenty of time to check our bags and relax before our flight. Little did we know that the airport was very small, with only two gates! Needless to say, we ended up sitting there for two hours, but thankfully there were comfortable couches where we could relax.

    We flew from Pamplona to Madrid and then continued on to Porto, Portugal. When we arrived in Porto, I waited for my suitcase at baggage claim, but it never appeared. The airline informed me that my suitcase was still back in Madrid. Thank goodness I at least had my toothbrush with me while I waited for my suitcase to be delivered the next day.    Okumaya devam et

    Çeviriyi gör
  • Camino Portugués 2026

    Day 16- Porto , Portugal

    19 Mayıs, Portekiz ⋅ ☁️ 61 °F

    On May 19th, we finally allowed ourselves to sleep in a little as our body clocks were still adjusting to Portugal time (for Bob). After enjoying a wonderful breakfast at the beautiful Boeira Garden Hotel, we set out on foot toward Porto to meet our friend and fellow Sacramento pilgrim, Gina, at the magnificent Porto Cathedral.

    Our walk took us across the iconic Dom Luís I Bridge, the stunning metal bridge spanning the Douro River with incredible panoramic views of both Porto and Gaia. Along the Gaia riverfront, we passed the famous port wine warehouses of Taylor, Sandeman, Fonseca, and many others, with their underground caves that have made Porto wines world famous.

    At the Pilgrims Office, we received our Camino credentials — the special pilgrim passport that collects stamps along the journey. Getting our very first stamp made everything suddenly feel very real: our Portuguese Camino adventure had officially begun.

    From there, we began walking the first stage of the Portuguese Camino toward Matosinhos, following the Douro River all the way to the Atlantic coast before continuing north along the shoreline. The walk covered more than eight miles and gave us a perfect “warm-up” day before the real trekking begins.

    Along the way, we stopped at a seaside terrace restaurant for refreshments overlooking the ocean before eventually enjoying lunch in Matosinhos, a city that grew from a humble fishing and salt-producing village into Portugal’s most important fishing port, famous today for its seafood and maritime heritage. I ordered the sea bass, which was absolutely delicious.

    One of the most moving moments of the day came as we left Matosinhos and encountered haunting statues commemorating the “Great Tragedy at Sea” of December 12, 1947, when several fishing boats sank during a violent storm, claiming the lives of 152 fishermen and devastating the community. The sculptures beautifully and painfully captured the grief of the families left behind.

    By late afternoon, we boarded an incredibly crowded bus back toward Porto, but traffic became so slow that we eventually got off and decided walking would be faster. We wandered once more through the lively Ribeira district, explored a few shops, and made our way back across the bridge toward our hotel. By the end of the day, we had walked nearly 12½ miles, and my legs are definitely going to feel it tomorrow!

    Tomorrow we plan to enjoy one final relaxing day before the Camino truly begins, including exploring some of Porto’s famous port wine cellars and, of course, tasting a little port along the way.

    Until tomorrow — Buen Camino.    Okumaya devam et

    Çeviriyi gör
  • Camino Portugués 2026

    Day 17 - Another wonderful day in Porto

    20 Mayıs, Portekiz ⋅ 🌙 70 °F

    Today was our last day to explore Porto, as everything changes after today. To take advantage of being in a city famous for its port wine, we started the morning visiting one of the many port houses, Boeira, which was associated with the hotel where we stayed — and the tasting was complimentary as well! If you have never had port wine, it is like a little sip of heaven.

    From there, we took a long walk along the Gaia side of the Douro River to visit another famous port house, Ramos Pinto, recommended by a member of the Sacramento Pilgrims group. Walking through Porto is an experience in itself — narrow cobbled sidewalks, noisy cobblestone streets, and rows of tightly packed buildings, many either in disrepair or under renovation. It is amazing how many historic structures in the city are still awaiting restoration.

    Once we reached the riverside, the atmosphere shifted into a lively tourist district filled with shops, restaurants, and attractions. The gelato was especially delicious, but the real highlight of the day was the visit to Ramos Pinto.

    The experience was part museum, part historical tour, telling the story of the Ramos Pinto brothers, Adriano and António. Having come from the famous Sandeman organization, they wanted their new port wine business to stand apart from the other producers already established in Gaia. While most companies focused on exporting to Europe, Ramos Pinto concentrated heavily on Brazil. They also changed the way port was marketed and exported by bottling the wine instead of shipping it in casks, allowing them to create colorful, eye-catching labels and distinctive branding.

    António focused on the production side of the business, while Adriano handled marketing and accounting, thriving on numbers and promotion. Their creativity and innovation made the company unique for its time.

    The tour felt like stepping back in history. We walked through preserved office spaces filled with original cabinetry, equipment, office stations, and beautifully preserved marketing posters. Even the executive washroom was incredibly ornate. Some of their advertising campaigns were considered provocative for the era, featuring religious imagery and partially clothed or nude women. One memorable poster showed Adam trying to choose between women or port wine, while another depicted the serpent offering Eve a glass of port instead of the forbidden apple.

    The building itself dates back to 1708 and was renovated around 1890. The separate stained-glass office spaces of Adriano and António Ramos Pinto still contain the original wallpaper and furniture dating back to about 1910.

    From the museum area, we descended into the cellars where approximately 600 casks of port are stored, including white, tawny, ruby, and multiple reserve varieties dating back decades. The cellar holds nearly three million liters of port and is one of only two cellars operated by the company.

    An interesting detail we learned was that once the casks are no longer used for port, they are sent to friends in Scotland to be reused for whisky production, giving the barrels an incredibly long life. The warehouses are located in Gaia because this side of the river averages about four degrees cooler than Porto itself, and historically the taxes were also lower here.

    After returning to our hotel to collect our luggage and backpacks — and enjoying a quick pizza lunch — we moved to our departure hotel on the north side of the river, an area with a much more modern, city-like feel, yet still offering beautiful views of the skyline.

    Calling it an early night after a quick drink, we finished the day preparing for the beginning of our Camino adventure, which starts tomorrow with an approximately 26-kilometer walk to Póvoa de Varzim.

    Buen Camino!    Okumaya devam et

    Çeviriyi gör
  • Camino Portugués 2026

    Day 19- Povoa de Varzim to ESPOSENDE

    22 Mayıs, Portekiz ⋅ ☁️ 66 °F

    Bob’s view of today’s Camino route was much the same as mine, at least until we separated onto different paths for part of the journey.

    Today’s venture was just slightly shorter but in many ways a very different view of the northern Portugal coastal area.  Bob followed the Coastal Route but lost track of Gina and I at about halfway due to Bob walking further ahead of us, and they taking a turn and following a leg of what’s known as the Litoral Route.  That separated us for about 2 hours.  More on the differences later.
    But any route that follows the coastline is sure to be pleasant.  With cool breezes and the sounds of surf crashing against the shore, we walked north, again along kilometers of coastal boardwalk, past rock formations, areas where the shore break of the waves was iintense.  Definitely  not a beach area set up for swimming although sections did have some great sand beaches.  The boardwalk took us past a couple of  old windmills, probably ones that hadn’t been used in a very long time and missing the sails . In many places the boardwalk took us along long stretches of the back side of coastal dunes, making the temperature a little warmer and showing a greater diversity of foliage.  Crossing several streams (ok, they may have been considered rivers) there were ducks and ducklings, a  frog symphony similar in sound to yesterday’s but not so visible, and trails wandering past a large sports club soccer facility.  Continting further, there were acres and acres of greenhouse facilities, and in places where you could peak through the plastic they held quite the assortment of tomatoes, leafy greens, beans, and in some cases a variety of flowers.
    Moving inland a little further , we passed views of a couple of golf courses, uncrowded and looking like some very nice holes.  At that point the boardwalk ended for Bob as he took the marked coastal route although it went inland a bit.  Another route, called the Litoral, stayed along a boardwalk and closer to the coast was where Gina and I separated from Bob ( unknowingly).  Bob stopped for a quick cool drink at the yellow sail-less windmill thinking we would would be along somewhat shortly, and after a while we both texted asking each other where the other was.  Gina and Sue had made a left where I had gone straight.

    Gina and my coastal Litoral Route was filled with breathtaking sand dunes covered in beautiful vegetation, along with countless farms growing lettuce, tomatoes, and so many other vegetables. Along the way, we came upon a charming fishing village where locals were buying fresh fish for dinner. Some of the fish were still alive, and the octopus looked especially sad lying on display.

    Gina and I continued through beautiful neighborhoods that reminded me so much of Carmel-by-the-Sea with their coastal charm and lovely homes. Eventually, we rejoined the other coastal route, where we happily ran into Bob. We sat together for a while, enjoying a drink and the sandwiches we had made at breakfast — a perfect little break along the journey.

    Bob’s inland route took him off the boardwalk and on to both cobblestone streets, dirt paths, and through areas dotted with farms, pastures, fields of flowers, and more farm vegetation.  Even the star thistle had beautiful purple flowers.
    Winding through some smaller residential areas  (complete with sculptures and figurines in the front yard) and passing a church and school in a town called Apula,  as well as several random pilgrim memorials or places of intention (collections of hand drawn stones, collections of shells, ribbons, etc) where pilgrims left their possessions or areas of remembrance or release. 
    It does seem that the Portugese do love their shrines or statues as well, noting statues of saints and homage to historical figures and daily life. 
    Entering the town of Fao, there were again simpler  churches, parks, and small town streets with ornate but also simple homes (many characterized by the Portugese use of ceramic tiles that we have seen again and again).
    Bob went past a busy main fire department, complete with a working 1931 Model T firetruck and came to a corner near the Lima River where we all rejoined and stopped for a quick beverage before tackling the last 2 miles.  Crossing the river we walked into Esposende and down a trail that took us  along the river to our hotel, a nice place which was definitely upscale compared to last night’s.  In need of a quick shower and time to put together the photo collection, time was taken before walking down to the town center, checking out shops, and looking inside the church.  Back to the hotel for dinner, relaxation, hopefully sleep, and then the longer journey tomorrow to Viana do Castelo.
    Buom dio!    Okumaya devam et

    Çeviriyi gör
  • Camino Portugués 2026

    Day 20 - ESPOSENDE to Viana do Costello

    23 Mayıs, Portekiz ⋅ ☁️ 64 °F

    Today was a very hard 17½-mile walk on the Litoral Path of the Camino. We crossed so many different terrains — cobblestones, sand dunes, pebble stones, and even more sand dunes — which made for some very challenging walking. Along the way we passed countless farms and watched local people harvesting their crops, which was beautiful to see.

    One thing we didn’t see were cafés! I made the mistake of not filling up my water jug before leaving the hotel, so at one point we had to detour about 800 meters off the path just to find a café and get some water.

    Today definitely turned into an adventure. We walked through beautiful eucalyptus forests where large branches had fallen everywhere, forcing us to climb over and duck under them. At one point we followed a trail we weren’t completely sure about, only to discover it ended in someone’s backyard! We had to jump the fence to get back out to the street and continue on our way.

    We also saw beautiful wild horses running through a field, which felt like something out of a movie. Eventually we reached the long bridge leading into the city of Viana do Castelo. That bridge seemed endless, and by then my feet were absolutely killing me. To distract ourselves, Gina and I sang two entire songs even though we barely knew the words!

    When we finally made it to our hotel, our feet were sandy and filthy, and all I could think about was getting into a hot shower. After cleaning up, Bob and I met Gina for drinks and appetizers at a nearby bar before heading back to the hotel restaurant for a delicious dinner. Bob and I shared a bottle of wine, and now it’s time to get some much-needed rest because tomorrow is another very long day.

    Buen Camino!    Okumaya devam et

    Çeviriyi gör
  • Camino Portugués 2026

    Day 21 - Viana do Castelo to Caminha.

    24 Mayıs, Portekiz ⋅ ⛅ 77 °F

    Today we decided to leave the Litoral Path behind and follow the Coastal Route of the Camino instead. What a completely different experience it was from walking along the beaches and boardwalks. Today’s route felt far more rural and reminded me so much of the Camino Francés, with its rolling ups and downs through charming villages, rocky trails, ancient cobblestones, and thankfully a few soft dirt paths mixed in. After days of walking on hard stones, sand, and uneven terrain, every stretch of dirt felt like a gift to our tired feet.

    We had an early start, meeting in the historic square of Viana do Castelo around 6:30 in the morning. After debating our options, we chose the Coastal Route, which actually travels more inland than the true Litoral route along the ocean. The tradeoff was worth it — fewer sandy stretches, more villages, and many more opportunities to stop for food, coffee, and little moments of rest along the way.

    The morning began with a steep climb out of town while the cool ocean breeze still lingered in the air. Since we left before breakfast at the hotel, we stopped a couple of miles later for Cafe con Leche. We actually stopped twice for coffee and it was so yummy. One of the highlights of the day — a beautiful garden café connected to an old convent and church. Sitting beside a gently flowing river, sipping fresh lemonade and café con leche, it felt like one of those perfect Camino moments where time slows down completely.

    The convent and church were filled with history. Bob overheard one of the staff members explaining that this area was part of the ancient Roman trail, with origins dating back nearly 2,000 years. The route follows portions of the old Via Romana XIX, the Roman road connecting Braga and Astorga in Spain. Suddenly those massive weathered stones we had been walking across all morning took on a whole new meaning. It was incredible to realize that pilgrims have been following these same paths for centuries, and long before them, Roman soldiers and traders once traveled the very same roads.

    Walking into the church brought an overwhelming sense of peace and serenity. Outside, the sounds of the flowing river and birds singing all around us created such a calm atmosphere that I honestly wanted to stay there the entire afternoon simply soaking it all in. We enjoyed some fresh lemonade and a yummy pastry.

    As we continued toward Vila Praia de Âncora, the trail brought more climbs and descents over ancient Roman stones, broken rock paths, and patches of dirt trail. Coming into town, we stumbled upon a colorful little plaza we nicknamed “Praça dos Cisnes” — the Plaza of the Swans — filled with beautifully decorated swan displays that must have been left from a recent festival. The entire square felt cheerful and alive.

    While enjoying pizza there, we unexpectedly ran into the couple we’ve been calling the “SLO ladies,” Julie and Gwen from San Luis Obispo. They were staying in Vila Praia de Âncora, but since we couldn’t secure a room there, we still had another seven kilometers to go before reaching Caminha.

    The final stretch followed the coastline again, but this section was rugged and rocky rather than sandy. It was interesting seeing families and couples relaxing on huge rocks the same way people normally spread out on a sandy beach. The Atlantic coastline here has such a different personality — wild, beautiful, and dramatic.

    By the time we finally arrived in Caminha, we were beyond ready to rest. Across the river we could already see Spain waiting for us on the other side. Reaching the hotel felt glorious. We immediately took advantage of the warm indoor pools, jacuzzi, sauna, and steam bath — exactly what our tired Camino bodies needed after such a long day.

    After a little rest, we headed to a late dinner around 8:00. The poor waiter was managing nearly ten tables by himself, but he worked so hard and still managed to keep smiling. During dinner, another afternoon thunderstorm rolled through, something we’ve been watching almost daily now. Thankfully we were warm, dry, and able to enjoy the lightning show from inside the restaurant.

    Tomorrow we cross into Spain, with a shorter walking day ahead. Oddly enough, even though we’ll remain at nearly the same longitude, we’ll also lose an hour because Spain is in a different time zone.

    Buen Camino.    Okumaya devam et

    Çeviriyi gör
  • Camino Portugués 2026

    Day 22- Caminha to Oia

    25 Mayıs, Portekiz ⋅ ☁️ 63 °F

    So we left the hotel in Caminha around 8:00 a.m. and took a very short walk down to the riverfront to a small water taxi provider called Popeyes. This was a tiny single-engine, open-bow boat carrying only five passengers and two crew members, used to ferry pilgrims across the Miño River into Spain. The wife of “Popeye” — and no, it wasn’t Olive Oil — explained to us that the river is normally very shallow here, especially during low tide. Sand from the Atlantic constantly filters into the mouth of the river, making the channel difficult to maintain, and neither Portugal nor Spain seems willing, or able, to spend the money necessary to dredge it.

    After a quick ride across the river, we arrived at a small boat ramp near the village of A Pasaxe, just outside of A Guarda. From there, we began a steady climb and soon found ourselves on a serene forest path. The soft dirt and layers of fallen leaves beneath our feet felt like heaven after days of walking on unforgiving cobblestones. It was peaceful and quiet, and as we warmed up our legs, the Camino once again reminded us how healing nature can be. Eventually, the distant sound of a street sweeper on the other side of the hill pulled us gently back to reality — cars, schools, and everyday life reminding us that we were never too far from civilization.

    We walked through the town of A Guarda to our hotels for the night. That alone would have made for a very short hiking day, but we had bigger plans. After dropping our (Gina & us) backpacks at our separate hotels, we grabbed small daypacks and extra water and continued north toward the coastal town of Oia. The idea was to add another 18 kilometers to today’s journey, then take a taxi back to A Guarda for the night and return to Oia in the morning to continue the Camino from there. It lengthened today’s walk, but it would shorten tomorrow’s very long 31-kilometer stage to Baiona.

    As we descended out of A Guarda and reached the coastline, the scenery immediately reminded us of the rugged coast of Northern California — dramatic rocky shores, crashing waves, and an angry sea rolling endlessly toward the land. We stopped briefly at a beautiful little park marking the entrance to the Senda Litoral route of the Coastal Camino before continuing on.

    For several kilometers we walked along the coastal highway, watching thick bands of fog drift in from the Atlantic and roll over the hills beside us. Overall, the walk was surprisingly pleasant, with only occasional uphill stretches as the road drifted away from the coastline. Much of the terrain was gradual or flat, making for an easier day on the legs. Along the coast were beautiful homes and estates mixed with half-finished construction projects that looked as though they had simply been abandoned in time.

    Eventually, we reached an early afternoon oasis called Esplanada do Horizonte, where we stopped for a much-needed break with still several kilometers left to Oia. Bob had his first Estrella Galicia beer — practically Spain’s national beer — and claimed it was excellent for hydration during long walking days. Not exactly medically approved, but the justification worked for him.

    I was thrilled because I finally found an Aquarius, which has become my favorite hydration drink on the Camino. After long days of walking, it really helps replenish and keep me going. While we were resting, there was also a gentleman there making wax stamps for pilgrims. He was incredibly kind, and we ended up talking for quite a while. We connected on such a spiritual level. He told me he had been walking the Camino for over 40 years, and before we left he simply said, “Take it easy and enjoy the journey.” Those words stayed with me for the rest of the day.

    A couple more hours later, around 3:30 in the afternoon, we finally arrived in Oia, completing about 13 miles (22 kilometers) of what turned out to be a generally easier and very enjoyable hiking day. We had already arranged for a taxi to take us back to A Guarda, and another one to return us to Oia the next morning so we could continue our trek from there.

    By the time we returned to A Guarda, the sun had finally broken through the stubborn coastal fog. We enjoyed an early dinner before heading back to the hotel for some much-needed rest. We had also officially crossed into a new time zone, so sunset wouldn’t arrive until well past 10:00 p.m.

    The good news is that we have a rest day coming in Baiona — two nights in the same place and a much-needed recovery day.

    As Bob reflected on the last several days, he realized something important. During those first couple of stages, the focus had been mostly on “getting there” — reaching the destination, finishing the kilometers, checking the box. But over the last few days, something had shifted. He found himself slowing down, noticing more, appreciating the beauty around him, and discovering a certain peace in the journey itself rather than the destination.

    And honestly, that is exactly what the Camino provides. It’s something very difficult to put into words. There is a silence here, a peace, and a simplicity that slowly settles into your soul as you walk. Somewhere between the sound of the ocean, the rhythm of your footsteps, and the quiet moments in between, the Camino begins to change you.

    Buen Camino!    Okumaya devam et

    Çeviriyi gör
  • Camino Portugués 2026

    Day 23 - Oia to Baiona

    26 Mayıs, Ispanya ⋅ ☀️ 68 °F

    Distance - 16.5 miles

    Today started early once again as we tried to get a head start on the day. We took a cab from A Guarda back to Oia to pick up where we had left off yesterday on the Camino. The taxi picked us up at 7:30 a.m., and within 20 minutes we were standing at our starting point for the day. After spending so much time walking that stretch yesterday, the cab ride back felt disappointingly short.

    Our cab driver was very talkative and shared bits of local history along the way. Bob tried using a translator app, but it couldn’t quite keep up with the fast Spanish conversation happening between Gina, the driver, and me. Instead, Bob spent the ride Googling some of the history of the area on Wikipedia, which turned out to be pretty interesting.

    After a couple of kilometers of walking, we stopped at the Hotel Glasgow for a cappuccino and a slice of traditional bizcocho cake — oh my goodness, it was delicious! The weather was cool and overcast, though thankfully not nearly as heavy or rainy as yesterday. Temperatures were expected to climb into the mid-to-upper 70s later in the day, perfect walking weather.

    A while later, Bob ended up separating from Gina and me after we stopped at a campground café for yet another yummy coffee break. Bob continued ahead walking with a South African woman we’ve run into several times along the Camino named Danette. They kept up a pretty steady pace, following the coastline, occasionally dropping into small residential neighborhoods, and somehow always finding another uphill climb waiting for them.

    Bob later walked the last kilometer or so with a very friendly older couple from the Florida Keys who originally came from Southern California. Meanwhile, both Gina and I eventually faced a very same steep set of hills as the trail cut across a small peninsula before descending into Baiona. Along the way we once again encountered remnants of an old Roman road, complete with visible cart ruts worn into the stone — fascinating to see, although also perfect places to twist an ankle!

    As we came off one hill and prepared to tackle the second, we met up with Bob at a charming outdoor patio café called Casa de Pexes. The promise of a bathroom stop and a credential stamp quickly drew us in. It turned out to be a wonderful little resting place with snacks, drinks, and several other peregrinos relaxing before continuing onward. Pablo the cat also seemed completely unbothered by the constant stream of pilgrims coming and going.

    After climbing the next significant hill, the trail moved through a more rural area before beginning another ascent along a roadway leading toward Baiona. From the crest of the hill, we were rewarded with incredible views of the harbor, the town, and the impressive fortress known as the Parador de Baiona. Amazingly, our hotel for the night was located inside the fortress walls themselves!

    At this point, our feet and legs were screaming for a break from the Camino — and thankfully, here it was. The harbor area was absolutely beautiful, and we were excited to see the famous replica of the La Pinta, one of Christopher Columbus’s three ships that returned to Spain carrying news of the discovery of the New World. Due to a massive storm, the ship landed right here in Baiona, forever tying the town to that moment in history.

    When we arrived at the Parador de Baiona, we were completely blown away by how beautiful it was. We sat outside on the patio enjoying refreshing drinks while soaking in the incredible views and the realization that tomorrow would finally be a rest day.

    Later, Bob and Gina headed off to the laundromat to wash our much-needed dirty clothes, while I happily chose the far better option — taking a nap and relaxing for a while. (Hehe!)

    That evening, after showers and getting dressed up a bit, we headed to Rocamar for a wonderful dinner overlooking the water. We enjoyed a beautiful sunset that didn’t happen until nearly 10:00 p.m. Since tomorrow is our rest day, we were finally able to stay up late without worrying about rushing out early in the morning.

    Hasta mañana!

    A little history about Baiona, our destination today: Baiona is an ancient Galician coastal town famously known as the first place in Europe to receive news of the discovery of the Americas. Originally settled by Celtic tribes and later occupied by the Romans, the town became an important maritime and trading hub during the Middle Ages. In 1201, King Alfonso IX granted Baiona a royal charter, helping establish it as a prosperous port city.

    The impressive Monterreal Fortress, dating back to the 11th century, protected the town from pirates and foreign attacks for centuries — even successfully defending against Francis Drake in 1585. Today, the fortress serves as the beautiful Parador de Baiona hotel where we are staying tonight.    Okumaya devam et

    Çeviriyi gör
  • Camino Portugués 2026

    Day 24 - Rest day in Biaona!

    27 Mayıs, Ispanya ⋅ ⛅ 75 °F

    Distance – 6.5 miles (just walking around this small city)

    Today was a rest day, and we took full advantage of it by sleeping in until 8:30. We enjoyed a leisurely breakfast around 9:00 a.m., then decided to take a small stroll around the Parador in Baiona, Spain 🇪🇸.

    We stayed close to the hotel and wandered through sections of the Old Town — mostly restaurants, ice cream shops, and little stores tucked along the streets. We also took two scenic walks around the fortress: one along the top of the ancient walls and another below them along the shoreline. Both were over a kilometer each, so we still managed to get some “shoe time” in today. Most of the pictures are from those walkabouts.

    What we continue to find amazing is the incredible amount of history here — not only in Baiona, but throughout the Camino in general. Much of it was probably covered in World History class years ago, but actually standing in these places, reading the backstories, researching the sites, and seeing their historical significance firsthand gives everything a completely different feeling.

    Christopher Columbus was an Italian navigator and explorer whose voyages across the Atlantic changed world history. Sailing under the sponsorship of Spain, he was searching for a westward route to Asia but instead reached the Americas in 1492.

    Columbus departed from the Spanish port of Palos de la Frontera on August 3, 1492, with three ships:• Niña• Pinta• Santa María

    After stopping in the Canary Islands for repairs and supplies, the expedition crossed the Atlantic. After weeks without seeing land, the sailors grew nervous, fearing they might never return home.

    On October 12, 1492, land was finally sighted — likely an island in today’s Bahamas. Columbus believed he had reached islands near Asia, so he called the local people “Indians.”

    The Santa María later ran aground on Christmas Day 1492 and could not be saved. Columbus left some of his men behind at a settlement called La Navidad before returning to Spain.

    One fascinating connection here in Baiona is that there is a true-size replica of the Pinta docked in the harbor. Historically, the Pinta arrived in Baiona in 1493 carrying the news of the discovery of the New World.

    The Parador itself has some remarkable history of its own, along with several impressive monuments and statues throughout the property.

    But aside from the history, the day itself was simply beautiful — sunny skies, an occasional cool breeze, and interesting people everywhere. Bob met an elderly couple from North Carolina who travel throughout Spain often and shared some wonderful stories of their adventures here. I was tired and fighting a cold so I too a nice afternoon nap .

    Tonight will be a quiet evening — probably just tapas, a drink, and an early bedtime since tomorrow starts early. We’ll be up around 5:00 a.m. to leave for Vigo by 6:00 a.m. in hopes of beating the heat on what is expected to be about a 27 km walking day.

    Hasta mañana, rumbo a Vigo!

    A little history of the Parador de Baiona:

    The Parador de Baiona is a luxurious hotel set within the medieval walls of the Monterreal Fortress. Half ancient fortress and half Neo-Gothic Galician manor, it is historically famous as the place where La Pinta docked in 1493 bearing news of the discovery of the Americas.

    Key Historical Milestones:• 11th–17th Century: The Monterreal Peninsula served as a bustling fortified coastal town. Due to its strategic maritime location, it endured frequent attacks, most notably repelling Sir Francis Drake’s raid in 1585.• 16th Century: The Count of Gondomar, Don Diego Sarmiento de Acuña, transformed much of the fortress into the imposing structure seen today.• 19th Century: Its military role officially ended in 1859, and after years of decline, the site reopened as a Parador hotel in 1966.

    Architectural Highlights:Today, the Parador de Baiona beautifully blends military history with aristocratic elegance.

    • The Grand Entryway: A majestic ancient stone staircase welcomes guests in the reception area.• The Towers: The fortress walls are flanked by three historic towers, including the Torre del Príncipe, the oldest tower, which once served as a lighthouse.• The Grounds: Enclosed by nearly three miles of medieval walls, the property features seaside walking paths, pine groves, breathtaking Atlantic Ocean views, and vistas of the Cíes Islands.

    This place is truly magnificent, and we feel blessed to have the opportunity to stay in such a historic hotel.    Okumaya devam et

    Çeviriyi gör
  • Camino Portugués 2026

    Day 24 - Rest day in Biaona.

    27 Mayıs, Ispanya ⋅ ⛅ 75 °F

    More pictures from today…

    One fun surprise today was seeing a group of classic cars called The Morgan Club traveling through Spain together. These beautiful vintage-style cars really turned heads and looked absolutely stunning parked along the grounds at the Paradir. 

    Of course, no relaxing day would be complete without ice cream! We found a great little shop and enjoyed some amazingly good gelato. My favorite was the Ferrero Rocher flavor — rich, creamy, chocolatey, and absolutely delicious!    Okumaya devam et

    Çeviriyi gör