Day 41 - A Coruña
Yesterday in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 84 °F
Rest Day in A Coruña
Walking distance - 6 miles .
We left Muxía after enjoying a lovely café con leche and a delicious croissant. From there, we settled in for a three-hour bus ride to A Coruña. Once we arrived at the bus station, we decided to take an Uber to our hotel since it was about a 30-minute walk and hotter than molasses outside! Our Uber driver was a really nice guy from Colombia, and he got us to the hotel in no time.
We dropped off our suitcases and immediately headed out to explore. Our hotel is only about half a block from the beach, and what a beautiful beach it is. We found a little café where we could enjoy a drink and some appetizers while waiting for our room to be ready. We spent a couple of hours relaxing, sipping wine, and watching people stroll by and enjoy the day.
When we returned to the hotel, we were in for a wonderful surprise. We had been upgraded to a top-floor corner suite! It was bittersweet knowing we would only be spending four nights in such a lovely room. The view overlooked the ocean, and it was absolutely beautiful.
After resting for a bit, we decided that sitting still just isn’t in our nature, so we headed back out. It was siesta time when we started walking, but the shops were just beginning to reopen—which was perfect because we do enjoy a little shopping! Before the day was over, we had walked about six miles exploring the city.
One of the things I love most about Spain is seeing families and friends gathered together. The beaches were full, the pools were busy, music was playing, and people were simply enjoying each other’s company. It’s something I wish we saw more of back home—the sense of community and togetherness.
Later, we found a wonderful restaurant where we enjoyed a fresh salad, some delicious Padrón peppers, and, of course, a nice glass of wine. We also stopped at the store to pick up some goodies for tomorrow because tomorrow is officially a beach day.
As the evening came to a close, we took another walk along the beach and watched the sunset. Tomorrow’s plan is simple: sit on the beach, listen to an audiobook, watch the people, hear the waves rolling in, and enjoy the art of doing absolutely nothing.
Buen Camino!Read more
Day 40 - Muxía
June 12 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 73 °F
Waiting for #AllieSunset -
Day 40 / Muxía
June 12 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 75 °F
More photos of today ….
Day 39 - Lire’s to Muxia
June 11 in Spain ⋅ 🌬 68 °F
Last Stage of Our Portuguese Camino
Distance: 10.5 miles
Today marked the final stage of our Camino, and what an adventure it has been. Along the way, we have walked on jagged rocks, loose stones, sand, dirt trails, concrete, asphalt, cobblestones, and yes—even cow poop, horse poop, and dog poop. Somehow, we survived it all!
This stage was easier than many of the others, although there were still plenty of hills to climb. The difference was that our legs have grown strong over these past weeks, making the climbs feel much more manageable.
We spent much of the day walking through beautiful trails lined with eucalyptus trees, ferns, and wildflowers. At times, we were as high as the wind turbines, and the sound they made was almost soothing. We could practically reach out and touch them. That said, we had seen enough wind turbines by now because they usually meant one thing—more climbing!
Along the way, we met a gentleman from England who told us about a beach near Muxía. We were excited to see it for ourselves. When the ocean finally came into view, we knew we were getting close. The scenery was spectacular. We climbed down a cliff to reach the water’s edge and, of course, wanted to touch the ocean. The water was cold, so instead we found a quiet cove where we sat and admired the crashing waves and brilliant blue water. It was peaceful, and as always, being near the ocean made me happy.
After soaking in the views, we continued a few more kilometers to Muxía, where we planned to spend the next two days relaxing and celebrating the completion of our journey.
Once we arrived, we settled into our albergue and enjoyed long, refreshing showers before heading out to explore the town. There wasn’t a lot to see, but we discovered a wonderful restaurant called Lonxe d’Alvaro. The meal was delicious. The fish was fresh and flavorful, the salad was excellent, and the potatoes tasted just like the ones my mama used to make. Gina and I shared a bottle of wine as we reflected on everything we had experienced and celebrated completing our Camino journey together.
What an incredible adventure it has been.
Until the next one…
Buen Camino! 🥾🥾❤️Read more
Day 40 - Muxía
June 11 in Spain ⋅ 🌬 64 °F
Muxía – Free day from walking....
Distance – 6 miles
We slept in this morning, and it felt wonderful. No rushing to get our feet ready for another long walk. No hurrying to leave the room and start the day’s stage. Just a slow, relaxing morning.
We wandered down to a café and enjoyed coffee, avocado toast with a poached egg, and fresh orange juice. It was absolutely delightful.
After breakfast, we headed back to the hotel to do our laundry. Good thing we got there when we did because we were able to finish before the hotel staff started theirs. Once everything was washed, dried, and folded , we set out to explore the town.
Today happened to be market day. Vendors filled the streets with fresh vegetables, flowers, clothing, shoes, and all sorts of goods. Since Muxía only has one small store for shopping, the market was a big event for the local folks.
After the market, we walked to what feels like the end of the world on this rugged stretch of coastline and visited the Santuario da Virxe da Barca. This sanctuary is one of the most important religious and cultural sites in Galicia. According to tradition, the Apostle James was struggling while preaching in Galicia when the Virgin Mary appeared to him in a stone boat to encourage him to continue his mission. The stones surrounding the sanctuary are said to be remnants of that miraculous boat.
For centuries, pilgrims who reached Santiago continued westward to Muxía and Fisterra, and many consider this spot the spiritual completion of the Camino. Around the sanctuary are several famous stones, including the Rocking Stone, the Kidney Stone, the Rudder Stone, and the Lovers’ Stone. Local traditions attribute healing and protective powers to them, and many pilgrims still touch or pass beneath them as part of their visit.
From there, we climbed to the top of the hill where we could see both sides of the Atlantic Ocean with the Cape of Muxía stretching out between them. It was breathtaking and one of the most beautiful views we have seen on this journey.
Later, we enjoyed an early dinner—or as we like to call it, a “ludiner”—at A Furna. We tried the fideuà with scallops and prawns, and it was absolutely delicious.
Wanting the full local experience, we headed back to the hotel for a siesta. I managed to sleep for about an hour and a half, and it felt amazing.
Tonight, we’ll take our usual walk for ice cream and then make our way up to the highest point in town to watch the sunset over the Atlantic.
A perfect rest day in a very special place.
Buen Camino!Read more
Day 39 - Lires to Muxia
June 11 in Spain ⋅ 🌬 64 °F
More photos of our adventure today!
Day 38 Finisterre to Lires
June 10 in Spain ⋅ 🌬 63 °F
Distance – 10 Miles
Today was our last day on the Camino to Fisterra before heading on to Muxía. Since we were staying at the lighthouse, I wanted to take full advantage of the location, so I got up at sunrise and spent some time walking around the property taking photos. The morning was absolutely beautiful, and watching the sun come up over the coast was a wonderful way to start the day.
Afterward, we enjoyed the breakfast included with our stay, which was delicious. Then we called a taxi to take us back into town so Bob could catch the bus to Santiago while I continued my Camino journey toward Muxía. We met up with Gina, said our goodbyes to Bob, and started walking.
Today's stage was supposed to be an easy one—about 8 miles—but as we've learned on this Camino, the distances aren't always as advertised! While it wasn't nearly as challenging as some of the previous days, there were still a few steep hills that definitely got our attention. After 22 days of walking, though, our legs are well-trained and much stronger than when we started.
The route was peaceful and beautiful, taking us through wooded areas, past farms, and along quiet country roads. We stopped at a couple of donativos for a short rest. The most memorable was run by a young man from Uruguay who is renovating the property to create a gathering place for families and pilgrims. His vision is to bring people together to enjoy the beauty of the land and spend meaningful time in community. It was inspiring to hear his passion for the project.
As we continued, we passed several working farms and saw people already hard at work tending their land. Their dedication and perseverance were a reminder of the simple rhythms of life that have existed here for generations.
Later, we took a delightful break and enjoyed sandwiches made with the delicious bread Gina had picked up from a local bakery. The scenery throughout the day was breathtaking, with beautiful ocean views and a refreshing sea breeze accompanying us along the way.
Although it was a relatively short walking day, we arrived at our hotel about three and a half hours later. Since our room wasn't quite ready, we settled onto the balcony with a drink and relaxed while taking in the peaceful ocean views.
Tonight we plan to unwind, perhaps take a leisurely stroll along the river as it flows into the sea, enjoy a nice dinner, and get a good night's rest before our final walk into Muxía tomorrow.
And, just as expected, today's "8-mile" walk turned out to be 10 miles!Read more
Day 38 - Lire’s
June 10 in Spain ⋅ 🌬 64 °F
The town of Lires is quiet, peaceful, and full of charm. After showering and relaxing for a bit, we found ourselves heading back out for another walk—this time to see the beach. And wow, it did not disappoint.
The scenery was absolutely beautiful and reminded us a lot of the coastline near Bodega Bay back home. The rugged shoreline, the sound of the waves, and the stunning ocean views made for a perfect afternoon.
We stopped at a restaurant overlooking the water, where the views were spectacular. We enjoyed a glass of wine , tinto de verano and shared an order of Padrón peppers, which were absolutely delicious.
Now it’s time to rest, reflect on another wonderful day, and get ready for our walk to Muxía tomorrow.Read more
Day 38 Finisterra to Lires
June 10 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 61 °F
More photos of our journey today!
We miss Bob on our walk that we had to do a video to remind him of what he is missing…
Day 37 - Cee to Finisterre
June 9 in Spain ⋅ 🌬 61 °F
Distance – 14 miles - Final Stage to Finisterre (Km 0.00)
Well, here’s to the last stage of this incredible journey.
We left the quaint town of Cee this morning and set out along one of the most beautiful stretches of the Camino. Our stay in Cee had been a treat. Maybe it was knowing we only had one day of walking left before reaching the famous 0.00 kilometer marker, but everything seemed especially enjoyable. The hotel was quiet and comfortable, and with the blackout shades we could almost forget that sunset wasn't until nearly 10:30 PM. After a nice dinner and a little vino tinto, we slept well and woke ready for our final day on the trail.
After breakfast, we headed out around 8:00 a.m. Walking along the road beside the harbor was a scenic way to start the morning, with the cool air and calm waters reflecting the sunshine. Before long, however, the climbing began. We passed through quiet neighborhoods, an old church, and a mural depicting local women protesting a military occupation of the town. Then we found ourselves on a narrow path winding uphill between stone walls and gardens, with occasional overlooks offering beautiful views of the harbor below.
One of Bob’s favorite moments came when he noticed a lone snail slowly making its way across the path, somehow avoiding the many pilgrims passing by. It felt like a perfect Camino reminder: move at your own pace, embrace the moment, and appreciate the journey.
As we continued climbing, we stopped at the Church of Saint Mark. To my delight, the church was open, so we stepped inside for a quiet prayer. Shortly afterward came a surprise—a steep uphill section that arrived much sooner than expected. The climb wasn't long, but it certainly got our attention. The reward, however, was worth every step. At the top, we caught our first glimpse of the peninsula of Finisterre and the Faro de Fisterra lighthouse, often called the "End of the World." Seeing our destination in the distance lifted our spirits, even knowing several hours of walking still lay ahead.
The trail then transformed into a lush woodland path. We walked through beautiful forests surrounded by towering trees, birdsong filling the air around us. The dirt trail was soft and pleasant underfoot, a welcome change from rocky terrain, and every turn seemed to reveal another peaceful corner of Galicia.
As we crossed from the municipality of Cee into Fisterra, we passed a beautiful albergue and restaurant overlooking a small beach. Soon the coastline became a constant companion. We walked by one beach after another, still quiet in the early morning. At one point, we heard a dog enthusiastically barking. Looking down to the beach, we saw a couple flying a drone while the dog remained completely fascinated, barking and chasing after it while its owner unsuccessfully tried to call it back. It was one of those simple moments that brought an instant smile.
Near the beachside path leading into town, we reunited with our walking partner Gina, who had spent a couple of days on her own in Santiago and Fisterra. It felt as though she hadn't missed a step. Since it was still fairly early, we stopped at a café near the tourist office, where we picked up yet another credential marking the completion of our second Camino of this trip. Bob treated himself to a cappuccino and an amazing chocolate-covered donut and I had a cafe con leche with a yummy cookie.
Walking through Fisterra brought back memories from our last visit less than a year ago. The harbor, the narrow streets, and the familiar landmarks all felt wonderfully familiar. Along the way, I struck up a conversation with a gentleman wearing an Argentina shirt. Discovering our shared roots, I quickly connected, and before long we had dinner reservations at his asador for later that evening.
From town, we set out for the final few kilometers to the cape. The trail followed the main road but remained beautiful, with stunning coastal views accompanying us every step of the way. Then, finally, the lighthouse appeared. Soon after, we reached the famous 0.00 kilometer marker.
Standing there at the End of the World was everything we had hoped it would be. The lighthouse, the sweeping ocean views, the sailboats in the distance, the rugged shoreline, and the endless blue water stretching toward the horizon created a truly unforgettable scene. Although there were plenty of visitors, the atmosphere was joyful and celebratory. We spent a long time soaking it all in, sitting in the sunshine, sharing lunch, and enjoying a delicious Galician pie that Gina had picked up.
Bob and I are spending the night in the former lighthouse keeper's building, now a small hotel perched at the cape. After checking in and admiring the incredible views from our room, we dropped our backpacks, grabbed a taxi back into town, and found a place to enjoy a drink while waiting for dinner.
As I write this, we're sitting on the tiny balcony of Gina's hotel overlooking the harbor and the streets below. The restaurant doesn't open until after seven, and the town is settling into the evening. Looking out over the water, it's hard not to reflect on everything that brought us here.
To celebrate reaching the End of the World, we headed to the Argentine restaurant that Gina had discovered, and it did not disappoint. We enjoyed a delicious meal of fresh salad, empanadas, milanesas with fries, and a parrillada. Everything was absolutely wonderful—and there was far more food than we could possibly eat! The owners were from Argentina and clearly knew how to cook. Every bite was fantastic.
After dinner, we took a taxi back to our hotel at the lighthouse to watch the sunset. The wind was chilly at the cape, and the hotel manager kindly brought me a blanket, which was such a thoughtful gesture. Wrapped up and comfortable, we watched as the sun slowly sank into the Atlantic Ocean.
The sunset was breathtaking. We sat together enjoying a glass of wine and coffee with a Spanish liqueur—such a perfect way to celebrate the completion of our journey. The views, the company, and the moment itself were simply unforgettable.
Now it’s time to rest.
Tomorrow, Bob will take a bus back to Santiago before heading home, while I continue my adventure with Gina as we make our way to Muxía.
As I reflect on these past weeks, I am filled with gratitude. After all the miles, all the climbs, all the conversations, laughter, aches, prayers, and unforgettable moments, we've finally reached Finisterre—the End of the World.
Standing at Kilometer 0.00, watching the sun set over the Atlantic, it is hard to put into words what this journey has meant. The Camino has challenged us, humbled us, inspired us, and blessed us with friendships and memories that will last a lifetime.
What an incredible journey it has been.
Thank you for following along on this adventure. Buen Camino, and may God bless you all!Read more
Day 37 - Firesterra- End of the World!
June 9 in Spain ⋅ 🌬 61 °F
Beautiful ending to a perfect Camino Portuguese!
Day 37 - Cee to Fisterra
June 9 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 57 °F
More photos of today’s journey
Day 36- A Picota to Cee
June 8 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 64 °F
More photos for today’s journey
Day 36 - A Picota to Cee
June 8 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 54 °F
Distance: 18.25 miles
Well, once again, the distance on our itinerary was wrong! We were supposed to walk only 14.25 miles today, but it ended up being much longer.
We left A Picota after a simple breakfast, but thankfully we got our coffee first—which is what I need most in the morning. Since we were staying off the Camino, we had to walk a couple of kilometers just to get back on the trail. Fortunately, it wasn’t too difficult.
Today’s journey felt much longer than the actual distance. We passed through a variety of landscapes, including stretches along the main road, and there were plenty of uphill and downhill sections that our legs were not too happy about. Some of the descents were especially challenging, with sharp rocks that required careful footing, and our feet definitely felt every step.
About halfway through the day, the rain arrived. Out came the rain gear and my trusty umbrella, which proved to be a saving grace once again. There were only a few places along the route where we could stop for refreshments and facilities, so we took full advantage of them, enjoying a café con leche and a lemonade before continuing on.
As we walked through a beautiful forest of eucalyptus trees, I started feeling a little weak. Bob and I decided it was the perfect time for a lunch break so we could nourish our bodies, rehydrate, and regain some energy for the miles ahead.
There were not many pilgrims on the Camino today. For most of the walk, it was just Bob and me, enjoying the quiet and solitude of the trail.
When we finally reached Cee, we were more than ready for a hot shower and some time with our feet up. After settling in, we headed down for a well-deserved beer before relaxing and resting until dinner. Dinner will be a little late tonight, even though we have another early start tomorrow, but that’s all part of the Camino experience.
Tomorrow is our final stage to Fisterra, and I couldn’t be more excited. I’m looking forward to spending the night at the lighthouse at the “End of the World.” Even better, we’ll be reunited with our friend Gina, who will join us for the walk to the lighthouse. It’s hard to believe we’re almost at the end of this incredible journey with Bob . I will continue my Camino to Muxía, which is approximately 18 miles (29 kilometers) from Fisterra along the Camino route.
Buen Camino 🥾🥾Read more
Day 35 - Nigreira to A Picota
June 7 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 72 °F
More photos of today’s journey
Day 35 - Nigreira to A Picota
June 7 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 73 °F
Camino to A Picota, Mazaricos
Distance: 21.88 miles
Today was a very long Camino day, but one that was incredibly rewarding.
Bob missed yesterday’s long walk from Santiago to Negreira, so he did not want to miss another stage. The morning began with my usual preparation routine—Voltaren, lambswool, bandaging tape, and a knee brace. After a traditional breakfast at our hotel, we were ready to go. Breakfast was simple, but we managed to quietly make a few sandwiches with bread, cheese, and ham to tuck into our backpacks for later. We would be very grateful for those sandwiches before the day was over.
We met up with a new friend Rebecca from Ontario, Canada, whom I had walked with the previous day. We met at the main roundabout in Negreira and set off together. Leaving town, we immediately began a long, steady climb uphill. It was a good test of how Bob’s knee would handle the day after a rest, and thankfully it felt much better than expected.
The scenery quickly changed as we left the town behind. We passed through quiet farm villages, beautiful eucalyptus groves whose familiar scent filled the air, and stretches of forest that seemed to go on forever. One noticeable difference on this Camino route is how much quieter it is. At times we would go long stretches without seeing another pilgrim, and when we did, it was often just a brief passing on the trail.
As we continued, the landscape opened into rolling hills, wheat fields, cornfields, and countless dairy farms. The day was sunny and bright, with temperatures in the upper 60s, making the countryside look even more beautiful. We stopped at a small albergue about five miles into our walk and enjoyed a second cup of coffee while giving our feet a much-needed break.
Services became fewer and farther apart as we moved deeper into the countryside, especially on a Sunday when many places were closed. By the time we reached another bar near Santa Mariña, we had already covered about 15 miles and over 31,000 steps. It was only the second place all day where we could stop for a drink and rest.
The walk itself was brutal. There seemed to be endless hills, and by afternoon our feet were definitely feeling every mile. Still, the higher we climbed, the more spectacular the scenery became. At one point we were nearly as high as the giant wind turbines that lined the ridges above us. The route to our hotel took us off the main Camino and added even more climbing, but the views made every step worthwhile.
One of the highlights of the day was seeing a group of teenage boys walking the Camino as part of their senior-year trip. They were polite, respectful, and clearly enjoying the experience together.
As we neared A Picota, I struck up a conversation with a young couple pushing a stroller with their toddler. They were from Córdoba, Argentina—the same city where my father was born. It felt like one of those Camino moments that seems too meaningful to be a coincidence. We chatted for a while on the trail, and later, after arriving at the hotel, I had the opportunity to meet the couple’s parents as well. We enjoyed a wonderful conversation about Argentina, and the Camino journey we were all sharing.
At last, after nearly eight hours of walking and only a couple of stops, we arrived in A Picota. After saying goodbye to Rebecca, who was staying elsewhere, we checked into our hotel and headed outside to enjoy a well-earned beer.
The Camino had another surprise waiting for us. Sitting outside, Bob recognized a family from California whom we had met earlier on the Portuguese Camino. What a joy it was to reconnect! We spent the evening sharing stories, laughs, and memories from our journeys. Rebecca joined us as well, and together we enjoyed a delicious dinner and great conversation.
As the evening came to a close, exhaustion finally caught up with us. Today had been one of the longest and most challenging stages of the journey, but also one of the most rewarding. The beautiful landscapes, new friendships, unexpected connections to my father’s homeland, and reunions with old Camino friends made every difficult mile worthwhile.
Tomorrow’s walk to Cee will be shorter, but with warmer temperatures expected, we’ll need to start early.
For now, it’s time for sleep and some much-needed rest.
Buen Camino!
While I was walking, Bob had some time to explore Negreira on his own. He discovered several historical sites and statues throughout the town, and I found the stories behind them both fascinating and meaningful. They offered a glimpse into the rich history and culture of this beautiful Camino town.
The Pazo do Cotón is a historic medieval fortress and stately manor located in the center of Negreira, Galicia. It is a renowned landmark along the Camino de Santiago (specifically the Way to Finisterre), famously serving as a reference point for pilgrims walking toward the Atlantic coast. The Pazo do Cotón located in Negreira is a stunning, centuries-old historic estate, distinguished by its stone walls and iconic defensive tower. It is most famous for its connection to the Camino de Santiago, featuring a stone gallery that bridges the historic pilgrimage route.
There was a stunning piece of artwork (dating back to 1997) The artwork pictured is the Monumento al Emigrante (Monument to the Emigrant). The realistic and dramatic monument pays tribute to the many locals from the region who were forced to leave their homeland in search of a better life abroad.
The Departing Man: The central bronze figure depicts a determined man walking away with a bundle over his shoulder. His lower legs seamlessly morph into tree roots anchored into the ground, symbolizing his deep, unbreakable ties to his native Galician soil.
The Reaching Child: A highly expressive child reaches out through an opening in the stone wall behind him, desperately clutching onto the man's clothes to represent the painful separation from family and loved ones left behind.
The Globe: Hovering directly above the stone wall is a globe, representing the worldwide destinations where Galician emigrants traveled. It serves as a key landmark for pilgrims walking the Camino de Santiago route from Santiago de Compostela toward FisterraRead more
Day 34- Santiago to Nigreira
June 6 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 63 °F
More photos of today …
Day 34- Santiago to Nigreira
June 6 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 54 °F
Distance: 15 miles
I didn't quite know what to expect from today's walk on the Camino to Finisterre, but it turned out to be a beautiful day on the trail.
I woke up at 6:00 a.m. to tape my feet and get my backpack ready for the day. After a nice breakfast at the Parador, I was on my way. Since my usual walking partners weren't feeling well enough to continue today, I set out on my own.
Before leaving Santiago, I stopped for a few more photos in front of the Cathedral. Then it was time to begin the next chapter of the journey.
I thought it was going to be cold, but I quickly discovered that the route started with a steady uphill climb. Within minutes I was warming up and was grateful that I had packed shorts to change into.
The route was hilly, but very manageable. One thing I was looking forward to was my second cup of coffee, but there weren't many cafés along the way. About five or six miles into the walk, I finally found one, and that coffee tasted especially good.
While there, I met a woman from Canada named Rebecca. We struck up a conversation, and after finishing our coffee, we decided to walk together for the rest of the day. We shared stories about our lives, our families, and our Camino experiences. The miles seemed to pass much more easily.
The scenery along the route was absolutely beautiful. We passed farms, tiny villages, and old stone towns that looked as if they belonged in a painting. One of the highlights was the village of A Ponte Maceira. The ancient stone bridge crossing the river was stunning, and the entire setting felt almost magical. We walked through shaded forests where the scent of eucalyptus filled the air, making the journey even more enjoyable.
There were certainly more uphill sections than I had expected, but since I never looked at the elevation map beforehand, maybe that was a good thing! Sometimes it's better not to know what's coming.
I made great time and arrived in Negreira around 1:00 p.m., where I was scheduled to meet up with Bob. I was pleasantly surprised to see him walking out of the hotel carrying a beer and some snacks. By then I was both hungry and thirsty. Even though he had originally bought the beer for himself, he generously handed it to me. I enjoyed it along with the sandwich I had packed at breakfast, and it tasted absolutely delicious after a long walk.
Now it's time to rest. Tonight's hotel may not be quite as grand as the Parador, but it will do just fine for one night. Tomorrow's stage is considerably longer, so I need to recharge and be ready for another day on the Camino.
Buen Camino!Read more
Day 33 - Rest day in Santiago
June 5 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 64 °F
More photos of today ….
Day 33 - Rest day in Santiago de Compostela
June 5 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 64 °F
Distance walked around town: 6 miles
This morning we were able to sleep in until 7:30, which felt wonderful. No backpacks to pack, no feet to tape and prepare, and no rushing to eat breakfast before hitting the trail. Yay!
We enjoyed a leisurely breakfast at the Parador before setting out for our day in Santiago. Bob and I found a laundromat to tackle our pile of stinky Camino clothes. While Bob handled the washing and drying, I headed to the Cathedral to get tickets for the rooftop tour.
Since I arrived early, I wandered through town and did a little shopping. I found a special bracelet with a Camino shell on it, a perfect reminder of this incredible journey. When I finally got to the ticket office, there was already quite a line. Fortunately, I was able to snag the last two tickets for the 4:00 p.m. rooftop tour.
Later, we met up with Gina at the Cathedral for the noon Pilgrim's Mass, hoping we might be lucky enough to see the Botafumeiro swing. We arrived an hour early and were grateful to find seats. The Mass was in Spanish, so Bob couldn't follow the words, but having grown up Catholic, he was familiar with the rituals and flow of the service.
As the Mass was coming to an end, we were delighted to see the Botafumeiro being prepared. What an amazing experience! I loved the smell of the incense filling the Cathedral. We were especially appreciative of the individual or group who sponsored the ceremony because it allowed all of us to witness this special tradition.
The Botafumeiro is the famous giant censer of the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela. Weighing approximately 53 kilograms (117 pounds) and measuring about 1.5 meters tall, it is swung by eight men known as tiraboleiros. The censer can reach speeds of nearly 68 km/h (42 mph) as it soars through the transept of the Cathedral. Historically, the incense helped purify the air when weary pilgrims spent the night inside the church after long journeys. Today, it is used on major religious feast days or when sponsored by donors.
After Mass, we visited the beautiful garden at Hotel Costa Vella, a peaceful oasis tucked away in the city. We relaxed with coffee, lemonade, and a beer while enjoying the quiet surroundings. Since there wasn't much food available, we later treated ourselves to some delicious ice cream.
At 4:00 p.m., it was finally time for the rooftop tour of the Cathedral. Unfortunately, I hadn't realized the tour would be conducted entirely in Spanish, so poor Bob had to rely mostly on the views and later research the history on his own.
The tour itself was fascinating. After climbing what felt like countless steps from the museum level, we emerged onto the Cathedral's rooftop. Unlike other cathedral tours we've taken in Europe, this one actually allows visitors to walk on the massive granite roofing stones themselves. Standing among the towers, examining the intricate architectural details up close, and looking down at the crowds, cafés, and plazas below was an unforgettable experience.
The rooftop offers a unique perspective on the Cathedral and its role in the Camino de Santiago. Construction of the Cathedral began in 1075, and for centuries it has been the spiritual heart of one of Europe's greatest pilgrimage routes. From above, it is easy to understand how Santiago grew around the shrine believed to contain the remains of Saint James the Apostle.
The rooftop also showcases the remarkable craftsmanship of the builders who combined Romanesque, Gothic, Renaissance, and Baroque styles into a single structure. The granite terraces were designed to allow maintenance workers access to the roof while protecting the building from Galicia's frequent rains. From this vantage point, pilgrims can see the directions from which the various Camino routes approach Santiago and gain a deeper appreciation for the thousands of journeys that converge here.
Standing high above the city felt symbolic—a bird's-eye view of our own Camino. After weeks of focusing on each step, each hill, and each day's destination, it was meaningful to look out over Santiago and reflect on the entire journey that had brought us here.
With the wind blowing around us and the towers rising overhead, it was both exhilarating and humbling.
Afterward, we enjoyed an early dinner and returned to our room to make sure everything was packed for tomorrow's departure. Our next stop is the small town of Negreira on the Camino Finisterre. I plan to set out around 7:30 a.m., while Bob will take a well-deserved rest day to nurse his painful and swollen knee.
Buen Camino!Read more
Day 32 - Padron to Santiago de Compostela
June 4 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 64 °F
Part 2 and more photos of today …..
After getting cleaned up and looking somewhat presentable again, we headed out for dinner. Gina had found a wonderful Italian restaurant, and it was absolutely delicious. It was the perfect way to celebrate after completing our journey to Santiago.
After dinner, we made our way to the Plaza de Obradoiro, where a concert was going to take place at 10 pm. The performers were a traditional "Tuna" group—university students dressed in the style of students from the 16th century. Accompanied by traditional instruments, they sang lively serenades that have been part of Spanish culture for centuries. It was so much fun singing along, clapping, and dancing to the music with everyone gathered in the square.
Since we didn't have an early wake-up call the next morning, we stayed out a little later than usual and were rewarded with another special sight. We got to see the famous Pilgrim Shadow (Sombra del Peregrino). As the streetlights illuminate the Cathedral at night, a mysterious silhouette resembling a medieval pilgrim carrying a staff appears on the stone walls of Praza da Quintana. Whether legend or optical illusion, it was such a fun and memorable experience to witness.
It was the perfect ending to an incredible day in Santiago.
Tomorrow, we rest, relax, and do a little shopping!Read more
Day 32 - Padron to Santiago de Compostela
June 4 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 66 °F
Distance on the Camino - 18.5 miles
Total for today - 20.5 miles
There was something different about waking up this morning—an anticipation unlike any other day on the Camino. Sure, the knee pain was still there, the morning routine was familiar, and we still had our usual plan to meet up with Gina before starting the day. Our room sat directly across from the train station, and throughout the night we heard the trains coming and going. Knowing that one of those trains could take us directly to Santiago in just 35 minutes somehow added to the feeling that today was different. We weren’t taking the train though—we were walking the final leg.
We got an early start around 6:30 a.m. because we had about 25 kilometers ahead of us. A light drizzle and cool temperatures made for perfect walking weather. As we set out, there was a quiet excitement in the air. This was it—the last stretch to Santiago, the destination we had been working toward for weeks. This is where all the lines on the scallop shell converge, where pilgrims from different routes and different countries come together with a shared purpose.
The day itself was another beautiful reminder of what I would call “real life” in rural España. We followed paths that ran near the railway tracks, passed through larger towns and tiny villages, and watched everyday life unfold around us. Farmers tended their gardens and land. Chickens wandered through backyards while roosters announced the morning. Goats, dogs, cats, and beautiful horses peacefully grazed or rested nearby. We saw old stone homes standing beside renovated modern houses, each with its own story. Residents greeted us with smiles and friendly nods, seemingly unfazed by the endless stream of pilgrims passing through their communities.
As always, we took our time along the way, stopping at cafés for a café con leche and a chance to rest our feet. The occasional stop to remove a pebble from a shoe or simply catch our breath became part of the rhythm of the day.
There were noticeably more pilgrims on the trail today. Everyone seemed to be smiling, chatting, and energized by the fact that Santiago was finally within reach. People from all over the world walked together, often speaking different languages, yet somehow communicating perfectly through the simple greeting, “Buen Camino.” One of the greatest gifts of this journey has been meeting fellow pilgrims, hearing their stories, and sharing a few miles together. Those conversations always make the distance pass more quickly.
The route included several steep climbs, but after weeks of walking, our legs have grown stronger and more accustomed to the challenge. We felt confident tackling the hills, knowing exactly what awaited us at the end of the day.
Eventually, Santiago came into view. The first glimpse of the cathedral brought a surge of excitement, but there were still several kilometers to go. As the countryside gradually gave way to the city, sidewalks replaced dirt paths, and our feet certainly noticed the difference. We even made a brief stop at a phone store to replace the screen protector on my phone after countless drops along the Camino had left it covered in cracks and scratches.
As we approached the city center, it became clear that there were many different paths leading toward the cathedral square. It felt symbolic. Thousands of pilgrims had arrived by different routes, each carrying their own stories, struggles, and reasons for walking, yet all of those paths led to the same destination.
And then we entered the square.
There is something truly awe-inspiring about stepping into a place like that. Hundreds of people filled the plaza—individuals, couples, families, and groups—all celebrating their accomplishment in their own way. Some were emotional, some were reflective, and others were simply overwhelmed with joy. It was especially heartwarming to watch a large group of teenage girls singing together as they walked the final few hundred meters into the square.
We stopped for celebratory photos before making our way to the Pilgrims’ Office, where we received our Compostela certificates. Holding that certificate was a thrilling and emotional moment after all the miles we had walked. We also spent some quiet, reflective moments in the small chapel nearby before wandering through the city.
Tonight, Bob and I are celebrating in a very special way. We are staying for two nights at the Parador, a beautiful historic hotel dating back to 1908. It feels like the perfect place to mark the completion of this incredible journey. We are looking forward to enjoying a nice dinner, listening to music in front of the cathedral, and staying up later than our usual Camino bedtime of 8:30 p.m.
The day’s journey certainly took its toll. Our feet, knees, and legs are reminding us of every kilometer we have walked. The long distances, steep climbs, and challenging descents have tested us physically in ways we never imagined. Tonight, our bodies are ready for some well-earned rest.
As I reflect on today, my heart is filled with gratitude. God has blessed us with the health, strength, and opportunity to experience adventures like this. The Camino has challenged us, inspired us, introduced us to wonderful people from around the world, and reminded us how fortunate we are.
Tomorrow will be a rest day before we begin the next chapter of our journey—the Camino from Santiago to Finisterre. But tonight, we celebrate.
Buen Camino.Read more
Day 31 - Villanova de Arousa to Padrón
June 3 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 59 °F
More photos of today’s journey…
Day 31 - Villanova de Arousa to Padrón
June 3 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 59 °F
Distance - 7.5 miles includes walking around Padrón….
Another early morning was in store for us as we prepared to catch the boat that would take us along the Spiritual Variant of the Camino on the Río Ulla. We were up at 5:15 a.m. and on the road by 6:30. There wasn't much preparation needed this morning since our walking distance would be short. With our breakfast packed in a bag, we set off on the 1.5-kilometer walk from our hotel into the town of Vilanova de Arousa and down to the harbor. The weather was once again cool and cloudy, with a fairly good chance of rain later in the day.
We boarded the tour boat Bahía-Sub early, and it was a good thing we did. Shortly after we settled in, a group of 84 Spaniards arrived in a wave down the road toward the dock. We were grateful to already have our seats.
The boat trip to Padrón follows the famous Traslatio Route of the Camino de Santiago Spiritual Variant. This route retraces the legendary journey of the remains of the Apostle Saint James, which according to Christian tradition were transported by boat from Palestine to Galicia after his martyrdom. The journey takes pilgrims up the Ulla River, passing mussel farms known as bateas, the Viking towers of Catoira, and many of the ancient stone crosses that mark the traditional maritime route.
The term Traslatio refers to the transfer of Saint James's body. Tradition tells us that after years of preaching in Hispania, Saint James was martyred and beheaded by order of King Herod Agrippa around the year 44 A.D. His disciples placed his remains in a stone boat and, guided by divine intervention, made a miraculous seven-day voyage from the Holy Land to Iria Flavia, present-day Padrón.
As we traveled upriver, we began passing the famous stone crosses, or cruceiros, that line the route. These crosses form what is considered the world's only maritime Way of the Cross. There are seventeen in total, strategically placed on islands, riverbanks, and rocky outcroppings along the river. They serve as markers of the route believed to have been taken by the Apostle's boat, as monuments honoring the Traslatio, and as symbolic guideposts leading pilgrims toward Padrón and ultimately Santiago de Compostela.
For many pilgrims, these crosses hold special significance. They mark the beginning of the Santiago story in Galicia. Long before there was a pilgrimage route to Santiago, there was the arrival of Saint James's body at Padrón. That is why Padrón is often called the "Cradle of the Jacobean Tradition." Seeing these crosses from the water felt like traveling through one of the most important chapters in the history of the Camino itself.
One of the highlights of the journey was passing beneath the impressive Ulla Viaduct, an award-winning high-speed railway bridge spanning the Ulla River estuary. Stretching more than 1,600 meters in length, it set a world record upon completion for the longest main span of any composite railway bridge.
Overall, the boat ride lasted about an hour and a half and was thoroughly enjoyable. We passed the mussel farms and at least a dozen of the stone crosses before finally arriving in the small town of Pontecesures. Once ashore, our first mission was to find a café and warm up with a much-needed cup of coffee.
From Pontecesures, it was only a short walk into Padrón. As we entered town, we wandered through its quaint streets, narrow alleyways, and inviting plazas. Like so many towns along the Camino, the church stood at the heart of the community. Here, it was the Church of Santiago, built on a site deeply connected to the traditions surrounding Saint James.
With tomorrow's final walk to Santiago looming, we decided to take it easy. We enjoyed a late lunch and early dinner before returning to our hotel to rest our tired knees and prepare for the final stage of this incredible journey.
Tomorrow marks the last leg of our pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostela. For us the Portuguese Camino journey has lasted fifteen days and covered approximately 290 kilometers (180 miles), not including all the extra wandering through towns and occasional wrong turns along the way. Reaching Santiago will be a major milestone, but not the end of the adventure. After a couple of days there, we will continue westward for nearly another 100 kilometers over four days to Finisterre, following the ancient path to what was once believed to be the end of the world.
Buen Camino ! Santiago here we come….Read more
Day 30 - Armentaria to Villanova de Arousa
June 2 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 68 °F
More photos and videos of today’s journey …..