Day 21 - Viana do Castelo to Caminha.

Today we decided to leave the Litoral Path behind and follow the Coastal Route of the Camino instead. What a completely different experience it was from walking along the beaches and boardwalks. Today’s route felt far more rural and reminded me so much of the Camino Francés, with its rolling ups and downs through charming villages, rocky trails, ancient cobblestones, and thankfully a few soft dirt paths mixed in. After days of walking on hard stones, sand, and uneven terrain, every stretch of dirt felt like a gift to our tired feet.

We had an early start, meeting in the historic square of Viana do Castelo around 6:30 in the morning. After debating our options, we chose the Coastal Route, which actually travels more inland than the true Litoral route along the ocean. The tradeoff was worth it — fewer sandy stretches, more villages, and many more opportunities to stop for food, coffee, and little moments of rest along the way.

The morning began with a steep climb out of town while the cool ocean breeze still lingered in the air. Since we left before breakfast at the hotel, we stopped a couple of miles later for Cafe con Leche. We actually stopped twice for coffee and it was so yummy. One of the highlights of the day — a beautiful garden café connected to an old convent and church. Sitting beside a gently flowing river, sipping fresh lemonade and café con leche, it felt like one of those perfect Camino moments where time slows down completely.

The convent and church were filled with history. Bob overheard one of the staff members explaining that this area was part of the ancient Roman trail, with origins dating back nearly 2,000 years. The route follows portions of the old Via Romana XIX, the Roman road connecting Braga and Astorga in Spain. Suddenly those massive weathered stones we had been walking across all morning took on a whole new meaning. It was incredible to realize that pilgrims have been following these same paths for centuries, and long before them, Roman soldiers and traders once traveled the very same roads.

Walking into the church brought an overwhelming sense of peace and serenity. Outside, the sounds of the flowing river and birds singing all around us created such a calm atmosphere that I honestly wanted to stay there the entire afternoon simply soaking it all in. We enjoyed some fresh lemonade and a yummy pastry.

As we continued toward Vila Praia de Âncora, the trail brought more climbs and descents over ancient Roman stones, broken rock paths, and patches of dirt trail. Coming into town, we stumbled upon a colorful little plaza we nicknamed “Praça dos Cisnes” — the Plaza of the Swans — filled with beautifully decorated swan displays that must have been left from a recent festival. The entire square felt cheerful and alive.

While enjoying pizza there, we unexpectedly ran into the couple we’ve been calling the “SLO ladies,” Julie and Gwen from San Luis Obispo. They were staying in Vila Praia de Âncora, but since we couldn’t secure a room there, we still had another seven kilometers to go before reaching Caminha.

The final stretch followed the coastline again, but this section was rugged and rocky rather than sandy. It was interesting seeing families and couples relaxing on huge rocks the same way people normally spread out on a sandy beach. The Atlantic coastline here has such a different personality — wild, beautiful, and dramatic.

By the time we finally arrived in Caminha, we were beyond ready to rest. Across the river we could already see Spain waiting for us on the other side. Reaching the hotel felt glorious. We immediately took advantage of the warm indoor pools, jacuzzi, sauna, and steam bath — exactly what our tired Camino bodies needed after such a long day.

After a little rest, we headed to a late dinner around 8:00. The poor waiter was managing nearly ten tables by himself, but he worked so hard and still managed to keep smiling. During dinner, another afternoon thunderstorm rolled through, something we’ve been watching almost daily now. Thankfully we were warm, dry, and able to enjoy the lightning show from inside the restaurant.

Tomorrow we cross into Spain, with a shorter walking day ahead. Oddly enough, even though we’ll remain at nearly the same longitude, we’ll also lose an hour because Spain is in a different time zone.

Buen Camino.Read more