Day 22- Caminha to Oia

So we left the hotel in Caminha around 8:00 a.m. and took a very short walk down to the riverfront to a small water taxi provider called Popeyes. This was a tiny single-engine, open-bow boat carrying only five passengers and two crew members, used to ferry pilgrims across the Miño River into Spain. The wife of “Popeye” — and no, it wasn’t Olive Oil — explained to us that the river is normally very shallow here, especially during low tide. Sand from the Atlantic constantly filters into the mouth of the river, making the channel difficult to maintain, and neither Portugal nor Spain seems willing, or able, to spend the money necessary to dredge it.

After a quick ride across the river, we arrived at a small boat ramp near the village of A Pasaxe, just outside of A Guarda. From there, we began a steady climb and soon found ourselves on a serene forest path. The soft dirt and layers of fallen leaves beneath our feet felt like heaven after days of walking on unforgiving cobblestones. It was peaceful and quiet, and as we warmed up our legs, the Camino once again reminded us how healing nature can be. Eventually, the distant sound of a street sweeper on the other side of the hill pulled us gently back to reality — cars, schools, and everyday life reminding us that we were never too far from civilization.

We walked through the town of A Guarda to our hotels for the night. That alone would have made for a very short hiking day, but we had bigger plans. After dropping our (Gina & us) backpacks at our separate hotels, we grabbed small daypacks and extra water and continued north toward the coastal town of Oia. The idea was to add another 18 kilometers to today’s journey, then take a taxi back to A Guarda for the night and return to Oia in the morning to continue the Camino from there. It lengthened today’s walk, but it would shorten tomorrow’s very long 31-kilometer stage to Baiona.

As we descended out of A Guarda and reached the coastline, the scenery immediately reminded us of the rugged coast of Northern California — dramatic rocky shores, crashing waves, and an angry sea rolling endlessly toward the land. We stopped briefly at a beautiful little park marking the entrance to the Senda Litoral route of the Coastal Camino before continuing on.

For several kilometers we walked along the coastal highway, watching thick bands of fog drift in from the Atlantic and roll over the hills beside us. Overall, the walk was surprisingly pleasant, with only occasional uphill stretches as the road drifted away from the coastline. Much of the terrain was gradual or flat, making for an easier day on the legs. Along the coast were beautiful homes and estates mixed with half-finished construction projects that looked as though they had simply been abandoned in time.

Eventually, we reached an early afternoon oasis called Esplanada do Horizonte, where we stopped for a much-needed break with still several kilometers left to Oia. Bob had his first Estrella Galicia beer — practically Spain’s national beer — and claimed it was excellent for hydration during long walking days. Not exactly medically approved, but the justification worked for him.

I was thrilled because I finally found an Aquarius, which has become my favorite hydration drink on the Camino. After long days of walking, it really helps replenish and keep me going. While we were resting, there was also a gentleman there making wax stamps for pilgrims. He was incredibly kind, and we ended up talking for quite a while. We connected on such a spiritual level. He told me he had been walking the Camino for over 40 years, and before we left he simply said, “Take it easy and enjoy the journey.” Those words stayed with me for the rest of the day.

A couple more hours later, around 3:30 in the afternoon, we finally arrived in Oia, completing about 13 miles (22 kilometers) of what turned out to be a generally easier and very enjoyable hiking day. We had already arranged for a taxi to take us back to A Guarda, and another one to return us to Oia the next morning so we could continue our trek from there.

By the time we returned to A Guarda, the sun had finally broken through the stubborn coastal fog. We enjoyed an early dinner before heading back to the hotel for some much-needed rest. We had also officially crossed into a new time zone, so sunset wouldn’t arrive until well past 10:00 p.m.

The good news is that we have a rest day coming in Baiona — two nights in the same place and a much-needed recovery day.

As Bob reflected on the last several days, he realized something important. During those first couple of stages, the focus had been mostly on “getting there” — reaching the destination, finishing the kilometers, checking the box. But over the last few days, something had shifted. He found himself slowing down, noticing more, appreciating the beauty around him, and discovering a certain peace in the journey itself rather than the destination.

And honestly, that is exactly what the Camino provides. It’s something very difficult to put into words. There is a silence here, a peace, and a simplicity that slowly settles into your soul as you walk. Somewhere between the sound of the ocean, the rhythm of your footsteps, and the quiet moments in between, the Camino begins to change you.

Buen Camino!Read more