Day 23 - Oia to Baiona

Distance - 16.5 miles

Today started early once again as we tried to get a head start on the day. We took a cab from A Guarda back to Oia to pick up where we had left off yesterday on the Camino. The taxi picked us up at 7:30 a.m., and within 20 minutes we were standing at our starting point for the day. After spending so much time walking that stretch yesterday, the cab ride back felt disappointingly short.

Our cab driver was very talkative and shared bits of local history along the way. Bob tried using a translator app, but it couldn’t quite keep up with the fast Spanish conversation happening between Gina, the driver, and me. Instead, Bob spent the ride Googling some of the history of the area on Wikipedia, which turned out to be pretty interesting.

After a couple of kilometers of walking, we stopped at the Hotel Glasgow for a cappuccino and a slice of traditional bizcocho cake — oh my goodness, it was delicious! The weather was cool and overcast, though thankfully not nearly as heavy or rainy as yesterday. Temperatures were expected to climb into the mid-to-upper 70s later in the day, perfect walking weather.

A while later, Bob ended up separating from Gina and me after we stopped at a campground café for yet another yummy coffee break. Bob continued ahead walking with a South African woman we’ve run into several times along the Camino named Danette. They kept up a pretty steady pace, following the coastline, occasionally dropping into small residential neighborhoods, and somehow always finding another uphill climb waiting for them.

Bob later walked the last kilometer or so with a very friendly older couple from the Florida Keys who originally came from Southern California. Meanwhile, both Gina and I eventually faced a very same steep set of hills as the trail cut across a small peninsula before descending into Baiona. Along the way we once again encountered remnants of an old Roman road, complete with visible cart ruts worn into the stone — fascinating to see, although also perfect places to twist an ankle!

As we came off one hill and prepared to tackle the second, we met up with Bob at a charming outdoor patio café called Casa de Pexes. The promise of a bathroom stop and a credential stamp quickly drew us in. It turned out to be a wonderful little resting place with snacks, drinks, and several other peregrinos relaxing before continuing onward. Pablo the cat also seemed completely unbothered by the constant stream of pilgrims coming and going.

After climbing the next significant hill, the trail moved through a more rural area before beginning another ascent along a roadway leading toward Baiona. From the crest of the hill, we were rewarded with incredible views of the harbor, the town, and the impressive fortress known as the Parador de Baiona. Amazingly, our hotel for the night was located inside the fortress walls themselves!

At this point, our feet and legs were screaming for a break from the Camino — and thankfully, here it was. The harbor area was absolutely beautiful, and we were excited to see the famous replica of the La Pinta, one of Christopher Columbus’s three ships that returned to Spain carrying news of the discovery of the New World. Due to a massive storm, the ship landed right here in Baiona, forever tying the town to that moment in history.

When we arrived at the Parador de Baiona, we were completely blown away by how beautiful it was. We sat outside on the patio enjoying refreshing drinks while soaking in the incredible views and the realization that tomorrow would finally be a rest day.

Later, Bob and Gina headed off to the laundromat to wash our much-needed dirty clothes, while I happily chose the far better option — taking a nap and relaxing for a while. (Hehe!)

That evening, after showers and getting dressed up a bit, we headed to Rocamar for a wonderful dinner overlooking the water. We enjoyed a beautiful sunset that didn’t happen until nearly 10:00 p.m. Since tomorrow is our rest day, we were finally able to stay up late without worrying about rushing out early in the morning.

Hasta mañana!

A little history about Baiona, our destination today: Baiona is an ancient Galician coastal town famously known as the first place in Europe to receive news of the discovery of the Americas. Originally settled by Celtic tribes and later occupied by the Romans, the town became an important maritime and trading hub during the Middle Ages. In 1201, King Alfonso IX granted Baiona a royal charter, helping establish it as a prosperous port city.

The impressive Monterreal Fortress, dating back to the 11th century, protected the town from pirates and foreign attacks for centuries — even successfully defending against Francis Drake in 1585. Today, the fortress serves as the beautiful Parador de Baiona hotel where we are staying tonight.Read more