Day 27 - Arcade to Pontevedra

Distance: 10.5 miles - ended with 13.5 miles for the day .

Today was a shorter day on the Camino—only 10.5 miles—but for some reason it felt longer than that. Since we didn’t have as many miles to cover, we were able to stay in bed until 6:30 a.m., which felt like a real luxury. We had our suitcases down in the lobby by 8:00 for transport to our next hotel, enjoyed a small breakfast, and then headed out.

As we left Arcade around 9:00 a.m., the cafés were just opening and beginning to fill with people enjoying their morning coffee. Before long, we started a fairly significant climb into a beautiful forested area. The overcast skies and cool temperatures made for perfect walking weather as we followed paths lined with lush vegetation, crossed gentle streams, and listened to birds singing in the trees.

One thing that was immediately noticeable today was how much busier the Camino had become. The Coastal Route and the Central Route merge at Arcade, bringing many more pilgrims onto the trail. In addition, Tui—100 kilometers from Santiago—is a popular starting point for pilgrims seeking the Compostela certificate, so there seemed to be walkers everywhere.

Not long after leaving town, we stopped at a small shop selling Camino souvenirs and pilgrim memorabilia. There I met Joe and Bee from San Juan Bautista, California, along with their traveling companions Veronica, Dave, and Dave’s mother, Theresa, from Folsom. It’s amazing how small the world feels when you run into people from home while walking across Spain.

After reaching the top of the climb, the trail descended toward Pontevedra. Along the way we came to a fork and chose the alternate “Accompanying Trail.” It was slightly longer, but absolutely worth it. The path followed a lovely stream through the forest and offered some of the prettiest scenery of the day. The only challenge was the abundance of tree roots crossing the trail—I swear some of them were actively trying to grab the soles of my shoes!

Along the route we passed locals selling Camino mementos and offering decorative wax stamps for pilgrims’ credentials. The combination of cool weather, beautiful forests, quiet farms, and flowing streams made for a very enjoyable day on the trail.

Eventually, we emerged from the alternate route and arrived at a square welcoming us to Pontevedra near the bus and train stations. After a quick stop at the pharmacy for some shoe inserts, we made our way to the hotel. With about a day and a half here, we are looking forward to exploring this charming city.

After a quick shower and a little time to freshen up, we met Gina near a plaza close to her hotel. We found a nice outdoor table and shared some delicious green Padrón peppers and tender octopus, accompanied by a cold beer and a glass of wine. It was the perfect way to relax and celebrate another day on the Camino.

Later, we took a leisurely stroll through Pontevedra’s old town, wandering along stone streets and through lively plazas filled with outdoor cafés. Families were out enjoying the beautiful Saturday afternoon, while children and dogs seemed to be everywhere. The city has such a relaxed and welcoming atmosphere. We walked all the way to the Lérez River before stopping for a quick ice cream.

We met Gina for dinner at a restaurant called O Bioco, which is known for its oysters. We ordered six oysters, a plate of clams, and a nice bottle of white wine. I was a little leery about the food since I normally don’t eat anything uncooked, but the clams were delicious.

The oysters were for Bob and Gina. They were locally harvested from the Pontevedra area. Gina thought they were wonderful, but Bob wasn’t impressed and said they weren’t like the oysters from back home.

Gina also wanted to try barnacles, but they were only available in 300-gram portions, which would have been far too much. The restaurant owner was kind enough to bring us three barnacles to sample. I have to admit, they were actually pretty good, although they took a lot of work to open and eat!

The wine was excellent, and we had no trouble finishing the bottle.

After dinner, we walked through the streets of Pontevedra. The city was alive with people enjoying the evening. Children were running around playing, families were out strolling, and the atmosphere was wonderful. We also visited a church that had just finished Mass. It was beautiful inside, and Gina and I plan to attend Mass there tomorrow morning.

Now it’s time for some rest. We have a day off tomorrow, so we’ll spend more time exploring this beautiful city.

Till tomorrow!Read more