Day 29 - Pontevedre to Armentaria

Camino de Santiago- (Variante Espiritual)

Distance: Approximately 17
miles

We got a very early start this morning, leaving shortly after 6:00 a.m. for the long trek to Armenteira. As we left our hotel in Pontevedra and headed toward the main square to meet up with Gina, we passed a marker showing 64.5 km remaining to Santiago de Compostela. It was a meaningful reminder that, while we have come a long way, the journey is not quite over yet.

Today marked a transition from the Portuguese Central Route onto the Variante Espiritual (Spiritual Route), an alternate Camino route that ends at a small town built around a monastery. We left Pontevedra in darkness, following quiet streets illuminated only by streetlights. After crossing the Lérez River, we made our way through several upscale neighborhoods before finding the path leading to the new route.

The morning began with a few minor climbs and some very narrow trails as we approached the town of Poio. Upon entering town, we noticed signs for the Monastery of Poio and wandered down the driveway after spotting a large bus loading passengers. A bus full of people usually means coffee and food, and we were not disappointed. The monastery complex also appeared to operate as a hostel. Inside was absolutely beautiful and surprisingly modern chapel. We enjoyed hot drinks and fresh pastries before continuing on our way. The stop was especially welcome since we were only about 2.5 kilometers from Combarro.

Today’s walk featured a long, steady climb of well over 1,000 feet in elevation, and that wasn’t even the highest point of the day. There were some challenging rocky sections both on the ascent and the descent. At one point, Bob stopped to remove the legs from his hiking pants and convert them into shorts. Suddenly, what seemed like an endless stream of hikers passed us—at least 40 people, most of them about our age, all moving with far more energy than we thought possible.

Later, when we caught up with them, we learned they were part of a group of approximately 84 hikers from Madrid traveling together on a tour. When one member asked another whether the rest of the group would be taking the bus, everything clicked. They were the same people we had seen boarding the bus at the monastery in Poio! The climbs themselves were not especially difficult—just long and steady—or perhaps we’re finally getting stronger.

As we gained elevation, we were rewarded with beautiful views looking back over the bay. Before getting too far beyond Combarro, we came upon a fascinating scene: dozens of people preparing to go clamming. I stopped and talked to a lady who was getting ready to go clamming as she said , they are only allowed to begin at 10:00 a.m., can work for just four hours, and may collect only one kilogram of clams each. She said last year they were able to collect 10 kilograms but this year there is not too much to collect. Some wore full chest waders while others were dressed in shorts and sandals, but every one of them carried tools—shovels, rakes, and large tubs floating inside inner tubes. It was amusing to watch, but clearly serious business for the locals.

The trail itself was beautiful, winding through natural forest and grove after grove of eucalyptus trees. Along the way we continued seeing the striking purple flowers known as foxgloves. They are beautiful but highly poisonous, so it is probably a good thing we resisted the temptation to pick any or smell them too closely.

We also met Angela and her daughter Abbie from Ontario, Canada. They joined us for lunch later in Armenteira, and it was enjoyable sharing part of the journey with them.

Bob thought the descent into Armenteira wasn’t too bad, but I had a very different experience. The trail was steep and rocky, with large boulders that required careful maneuvering. At one point, my trekking poles slipped on a rock, and I nearly lost my footing. By the time we reached the bottom, our knees were definitely feeling the impact, especially from the narrow, uneven sections of the path.

Near the end of the descent, the trail followed a small stream for the last few hundred meters, providing a peaceful finish to an otherwise challenging stretch. Then, suddenly, the restaurant came into view. We arrived around 1:30 p.m. and were more than ready for a good meal. I enjoyed a mixed salad, while Bob had a surprisingly delicious hamburger.

After lunch we visited the monastery that gives Armenteira its identity. The monastery was simple and elegant, especially when compared to the much more ornate churches we have visited in larger cities. It remains an active monastery, although aside from signs requesting complete silence, we did not witness any religious activities. The monks are also responsible for maintaining the surrounding trails, which explains why many sections remain rugged, natural, and somewhat treacherous.

Because of the rough terrain and the lack of early morning light in this small town, getting an early start tomorrow will not really be an option. We are staying at a lovely bed-and-breakfast about two kilometers outside of town, with both dinner and breakfast included. It should make for a restful afternoon, especially since there is not much else to do here.

Unfortunately, our walking companion was only able to complete a small portion of today’s route. She was suffering from nausea and likely some dehydration, so she made the right choice and got a ride to Armenteira and her albergue. We are hoping she will be fully recovered for tomorrow’s stage, another 24-kilometer walk down to Villanova de Arousa.

History Note: The Variante Espiritual follows a route closely connected to the tradition of the Apostle Saint James. Pilgrims traveling this path eventually connect with a maritime route that commemorates the legendary journey of Saint James’s remains from the Holy Land to Galicia. The destination of today’s walk, Armenteira, grew around the Monastery of Santa María de Armenteira, a Cistercian monastery founded in the 12th century and still home to a small monastic community today.

Buen Camino !Read more