Day 30 - Armentaria to Villanova de Arousa

Distance: Approximately 17 miles

This morning we said goodbye to the beautiful Casa Prado de Carballo, where we had spent the night. Since we wanted to leave before breakfast was being served, Patricia, the owner of the casa, kindly prepared a picnic breakfast for us to take along. It was such a thoughtful gesture and a wonderful way to start the day.

We met our friend Gina at a nearby café and enjoyed a café con leche before beginning our hike. We had expected some rain after a light shower overnight, so we rearranged our backpacks to make room for rain jackets and umbrellas. As it turned out, the rain never came, but the cooler temperatures made for comfortable walking conditions.

The first several kilometers were some of the most beautiful we have experienced on the Camino. We followed the Armenteira River along the famous Stone and Water Route (Ruta da Pedra e da Auga), a lush, peaceful trail filled with the sounds of flowing water, small waterfalls, and birdsong. I found myself constantly stopping to admire the scenery and take photographs. The trail was incredibly serene, winding through dense greenery beside the river.

The route was not without its challenges. Wet rocks, exposed tree roots, and steep downhill sections demanded careful footing. More than once I was grateful for my trekking poles as we navigated the slippery terrain.

One of the highlights of the morning was seeing the many restored water mills that line the river. This trail is famous for its collection of traditional Galician mills, once used to grind corn using the power of the river. Dozens of these historic structures remain, nestled among moss-covered stones and cascading streams. We also passed the Aldea Labrega, a fascinating stone sculpture village depicting rural Galician life, complete with a church, granary, stone cross, and farm animals.

As we continued, the Armenteira River eventually joined the larger Umia River near Ribadumia. The landscape opened up, and we began passing vineyard after vineyard. The grapevines immediately caught our attention because they looked so different from the vineyards back home in California. Here, the Albariño grapes are grown on elevated pergola-style trellises called parras, with the vines suspended six to seven feet above the ground.

This unique system helps protect the grapes from Galicia's humid climate by improving air circulation, reducing fungal diseases, and maximizing sunlight exposure. The stone supports, made from local granite, are designed to withstand the region's constant moisture and salty Atlantic air. It was fascinating to see such a different approach to winemaking.

Although today's stage was supposed to be relatively flat, there were several steady climbs throughout the day. None were particularly difficult, but after so many miles our legs were feeling the accumulated fatigue. The trail seemed endless at times, and we joked that we were moving slower than a snail.

As we left the rivers behind and made our way toward Vilanova de Arousa, the weather alternated between cloudy and sunny. Just when it felt warm enough to switch to shorts, a cool breeze would roll in and convince us otherwise. Eventually we caught glimpses of the estuary, a welcome sign that our destination was drawing near.

Vilanova de Arousa derives its name from the Latin Villa Nova, meaning "new town," while "Arousa" refers to its location along the Ría de Arousa, Galicia's largest and most famous estuary. Historically, it developed as a new settlement along these beautiful coastal waters.

After what felt like countless "just a few more kilometers," we finally arrived at our hotel for the night. By then, all we could think about was a hot shower. It felt wonderful to wash off the day's dust and finally put our feet up.

Later, we set out in search of a drink and something to eat. There wasn't much nearby, so we ended up at the beachside bar directly in front of our hotel. The wind coming off the water felt quite chilly to me, so we quickly moved inside, enjoyed a light meal and a drink, and then returned to our room for some much-needed rest.

Tomorrow is a very short walking day, followed by the boat journey to Padrón as part of the Spiritual Variant of the Camino. I am excited for this next chapter of our pilgrimage and looking forward to learning more about its history.

Buen Camino!Read more