Day 31 - Villanova de Arousa to Padrón

Distance - 7.5 miles includes walking around Padrón….

Another early morning was in store for us as we prepared to catch the boat that would take us along the Spiritual Variant of the Camino on the Río Ulla. We were up at 5:15 a.m. and on the road by 6:30. There wasn't much preparation needed this morning since our walking distance would be short. With our breakfast packed in a bag, we set off on the 1.5-kilometer walk from our hotel into the town of Vilanova de Arousa and down to the harbor. The weather was once again cool and cloudy, with a fairly good chance of rain later in the day.

We boarded the tour boat Bahía-Sub early, and it was a good thing we did. Shortly after we settled in, a group of 84 Spaniards arrived in a wave down the road toward the dock. We were grateful to already have our seats.

The boat trip to Padrón follows the famous Traslatio Route of the Camino de Santiago Spiritual Variant. This route retraces the legendary journey of the remains of the Apostle Saint James, which according to Christian tradition were transported by boat from Palestine to Galicia after his martyrdom. The journey takes pilgrims up the Ulla River, passing mussel farms known as bateas, the Viking towers of Catoira, and many of the ancient stone crosses that mark the traditional maritime route.

The term Traslatio refers to the transfer of Saint James's body. Tradition tells us that after years of preaching in Hispania, Saint James was martyred and beheaded by order of King Herod Agrippa around the year 44 A.D. His disciples placed his remains in a stone boat and, guided by divine intervention, made a miraculous seven-day voyage from the Holy Land to Iria Flavia, present-day Padrón.

As we traveled upriver, we began passing the famous stone crosses, or cruceiros, that line the route. These crosses form what is considered the world's only maritime Way of the Cross. There are seventeen in total, strategically placed on islands, riverbanks, and rocky outcroppings along the river. They serve as markers of the route believed to have been taken by the Apostle's boat, as monuments honoring the Traslatio, and as symbolic guideposts leading pilgrims toward Padrón and ultimately Santiago de Compostela.

For many pilgrims, these crosses hold special significance. They mark the beginning of the Santiago story in Galicia. Long before there was a pilgrimage route to Santiago, there was the arrival of Saint James's body at Padrón. That is why Padrón is often called the "Cradle of the Jacobean Tradition." Seeing these crosses from the water felt like traveling through one of the most important chapters in the history of the Camino itself.

One of the highlights of the journey was passing beneath the impressive Ulla Viaduct, an award-winning high-speed railway bridge spanning the Ulla River estuary. Stretching more than 1,600 meters in length, it set a world record upon completion for the longest main span of any composite railway bridge.

Overall, the boat ride lasted about an hour and a half and was thoroughly enjoyable. We passed the mussel farms and at least a dozen of the stone crosses before finally arriving in the small town of Pontecesures. Once ashore, our first mission was to find a café and warm up with a much-needed cup of coffee.

From Pontecesures, it was only a short walk into Padrón. As we entered town, we wandered through its quaint streets, narrow alleyways, and inviting plazas. Like so many towns along the Camino, the church stood at the heart of the community. Here, it was the Church of Santiago, built on a site deeply connected to the traditions surrounding Saint James.

With tomorrow's final walk to Santiago looming, we decided to take it easy. We enjoyed a late lunch and early dinner before returning to our hotel to rest our tired knees and prepare for the final stage of this incredible journey.

Tomorrow marks the last leg of our pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostela. For us the Portuguese Camino journey has lasted fifteen days and covered approximately 290 kilometers (180 miles), not including all the extra wandering through towns and occasional wrong turns along the way. Reaching Santiago will be a major milestone, but not the end of the adventure. After a couple of days there, we will continue westward for nearly another 100 kilometers over four days to Finisterre, following the ancient path to what was once believed to be the end of the world.

Buen Camino ! Santiago here we come….Read more