Day 33 - Rest day in Santiago de Compostela

Distance walked around town: 6 miles

This morning we were able to sleep in until 7:30, which felt wonderful. No backpacks to pack, no feet to tape and prepare, and no rushing to eat breakfast before hitting the trail. Yay!

We enjoyed a leisurely breakfast at the Parador before setting out for our day in Santiago. Bob and I found a laundromat to tackle our pile of stinky Camino clothes. While Bob handled the washing and drying, I headed to the Cathedral to get tickets for the rooftop tour.

Since I arrived early, I wandered through town and did a little shopping. I found a special bracelet with a Camino shell on it, a perfect reminder of this incredible journey. When I finally got to the ticket office, there was already quite a line. Fortunately, I was able to snag the last two tickets for the 4:00 p.m. rooftop tour.

Later, we met up with Gina at the Cathedral for the noon Pilgrim's Mass, hoping we might be lucky enough to see the Botafumeiro swing. We arrived an hour early and were grateful to find seats. The Mass was in Spanish, so Bob couldn't follow the words, but having grown up Catholic, he was familiar with the rituals and flow of the service.

As the Mass was coming to an end, we were delighted to see the Botafumeiro being prepared. What an amazing experience! I loved the smell of the incense filling the Cathedral. We were especially appreciative of the individual or group who sponsored the ceremony because it allowed all of us to witness this special tradition.

The Botafumeiro is the famous giant censer of the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela. Weighing approximately 53 kilograms (117 pounds) and measuring about 1.5 meters tall, it is swung by eight men known as tiraboleiros. The censer can reach speeds of nearly 68 km/h (42 mph) as it soars through the transept of the Cathedral. Historically, the incense helped purify the air when weary pilgrims spent the night inside the church after long journeys. Today, it is used on major religious feast days or when sponsored by donors.

After Mass, we visited the beautiful garden at Hotel Costa Vella, a peaceful oasis tucked away in the city. We relaxed with coffee, lemonade, and a beer while enjoying the quiet surroundings. Since there wasn't much food available, we later treated ourselves to some delicious ice cream.

At 4:00 p.m., it was finally time for the rooftop tour of the Cathedral. Unfortunately, I hadn't realized the tour would be conducted entirely in Spanish, so poor Bob had to rely mostly on the views and later research the history on his own.

The tour itself was fascinating. After climbing what felt like countless steps from the museum level, we emerged onto the Cathedral's rooftop. Unlike other cathedral tours we've taken in Europe, this one actually allows visitors to walk on the massive granite roofing stones themselves. Standing among the towers, examining the intricate architectural details up close, and looking down at the crowds, cafés, and plazas below was an unforgettable experience.

The rooftop offers a unique perspective on the Cathedral and its role in the Camino de Santiago. Construction of the Cathedral began in 1075, and for centuries it has been the spiritual heart of one of Europe's greatest pilgrimage routes. From above, it is easy to understand how Santiago grew around the shrine believed to contain the remains of Saint James the Apostle.

The rooftop also showcases the remarkable craftsmanship of the builders who combined Romanesque, Gothic, Renaissance, and Baroque styles into a single structure. The granite terraces were designed to allow maintenance workers access to the roof while protecting the building from Galicia's frequent rains. From this vantage point, pilgrims can see the directions from which the various Camino routes approach Santiago and gain a deeper appreciation for the thousands of journeys that converge here.

Standing high above the city felt symbolic—a bird's-eye view of our own Camino. After weeks of focusing on each step, each hill, and each day's destination, it was meaningful to look out over Santiago and reflect on the entire journey that had brought us here.

With the wind blowing around us and the towers rising overhead, it was both exhilarating and humbling.

Afterward, we enjoyed an early dinner and returned to our room to make sure everything was packed for tomorrow's departure. Our next stop is the small town of Negreira on the Camino Finisterre. I plan to set out around 7:30 a.m., while Bob will take a well-deserved rest day to nurse his painful and swollen knee.

Buen Camino!Read more