Day 35 - Nigreira to A Picota

Camino to A Picota, Mazaricos
Distance: 21.88 miles

Today was a very long Camino day, but one that was incredibly rewarding.

Bob missed yesterday’s long walk from Santiago to Negreira, so he did not want to miss another stage. The morning began with my usual preparation routine—Voltaren, lambswool, bandaging tape, and a knee brace. After a traditional breakfast at our hotel, we were ready to go. Breakfast was simple, but we managed to quietly make a few sandwiches with bread, cheese, and ham to tuck into our backpacks for later. We would be very grateful for those sandwiches before the day was over.

We met up with a new friend Rebecca from Ontario, Canada, whom I had walked with the previous day. We met at the main roundabout in Negreira and set off together. Leaving town, we immediately began a long, steady climb uphill. It was a good test of how Bob’s knee would handle the day after a rest, and thankfully it felt much better than expected.

The scenery quickly changed as we left the town behind. We passed through quiet farm villages, beautiful eucalyptus groves whose familiar scent filled the air, and stretches of forest that seemed to go on forever. One noticeable difference on this Camino route is how much quieter it is. At times we would go long stretches without seeing another pilgrim, and when we did, it was often just a brief passing on the trail.

As we continued, the landscape opened into rolling hills, wheat fields, cornfields, and countless dairy farms. The day was sunny and bright, with temperatures in the upper 60s, making the countryside look even more beautiful. We stopped at a small albergue about five miles into our walk and enjoyed a second cup of coffee while giving our feet a much-needed break.

Services became fewer and farther apart as we moved deeper into the countryside, especially on a Sunday when many places were closed. By the time we reached another bar near Santa Mariña, we had already covered about 15 miles and over 31,000 steps. It was only the second place all day where we could stop for a drink and rest.

The walk itself was brutal. There seemed to be endless hills, and by afternoon our feet were definitely feeling every mile. Still, the higher we climbed, the more spectacular the scenery became. At one point we were nearly as high as the giant wind turbines that lined the ridges above us. The route to our hotel took us off the main Camino and added even more climbing, but the views made every step worthwhile.

One of the highlights of the day was seeing a group of teenage boys walking the Camino as part of their senior-year trip. They were polite, respectful, and clearly enjoying the experience together.

As we neared A Picota, I struck up a conversation with a young couple pushing a stroller with their toddler. They were from Córdoba, Argentina—the same city where my father was born. It felt like one of those Camino moments that seems too meaningful to be a coincidence. We chatted for a while on the trail, and later, after arriving at the hotel, I had the opportunity to meet the couple’s parents as well. We enjoyed a wonderful conversation about Argentina, and the Camino journey we were all sharing.

At last, after nearly eight hours of walking and only a couple of stops, we arrived in A Picota. After saying goodbye to Rebecca, who was staying elsewhere, we checked into our hotel and headed outside to enjoy a well-earned beer.

The Camino had another surprise waiting for us. Sitting outside, Bob recognized a family from California whom we had met earlier on the Portuguese Camino. What a joy it was to reconnect! We spent the evening sharing stories, laughs, and memories from our journeys. Rebecca joined us as well, and together we enjoyed a delicious dinner and great conversation.

As the evening came to a close, exhaustion finally caught up with us. Today had been one of the longest and most challenging stages of the journey, but also one of the most rewarding. The beautiful landscapes, new friendships, unexpected connections to my father’s homeland, and reunions with old Camino friends made every difficult mile worthwhile.

Tomorrow’s walk to Cee will be shorter, but with warmer temperatures expected, we’ll need to start early.

For now, it’s time for sleep and some much-needed rest.

Buen Camino!

While I was walking, Bob had some time to explore Negreira on his own. He discovered several historical sites and statues throughout the town, and I found the stories behind them both fascinating and meaningful. They offered a glimpse into the rich history and culture of this beautiful Camino town.

The Pazo do Cotón is a historic medieval fortress and stately manor located in the center of Negreira, Galicia. It is a renowned landmark along the Camino de Santiago (specifically the Way to Finisterre), famously serving as a reference point for pilgrims walking toward the Atlantic coast. The Pazo do Cotón located in Negreira is a stunning, centuries-old historic estate, distinguished by its stone walls and iconic defensive tower. It is most famous for its connection to the Camino de Santiago, featuring a stone gallery that bridges the historic pilgrimage route.

There was a stunning piece of artwork (dating back to 1997) The artwork pictured is the Monumento al Emigrante (Monument to the Emigrant). The realistic and dramatic monument pays tribute to the many locals from the region who were forced to leave their homeland in search of a better life abroad.

The Departing Man: The central bronze figure depicts a determined man walking away with a bundle over his shoulder. His lower legs seamlessly morph into tree roots anchored into the ground, symbolizing his deep, unbreakable ties to his native Galician soil.

The Reaching Child: A highly expressive child reaches out through an opening in the stone wall behind him, desperately clutching onto the man's clothes to represent the painful separation from family and loved ones left behind.

The Globe: Hovering directly above the stone wall is a globe, representing the worldwide destinations where Galician emigrants traveled. It serves as a key landmark for pilgrims walking the Camino de Santiago route from Santiago de Compostela toward FisterraRead more