Day 37 - Cee to Finisterre

Distance – 14 miles - Final Stage to Finisterre (Km 0.00)

Well, here’s to the last stage of this incredible journey.

We left the quaint town of Cee this morning and set out along one of the most beautiful stretches of the Camino. Our stay in Cee had been a treat. Maybe it was knowing we only had one day of walking left before reaching the famous 0.00 kilometer marker, but everything seemed especially enjoyable. The hotel was quiet and comfortable, and with the blackout shades we could almost forget that sunset wasn't until nearly 10:30 PM. After a nice dinner and a little vino tinto, we slept well and woke ready for our final day on the trail.

After breakfast, we headed out around 8:00 a.m. Walking along the road beside the harbor was a scenic way to start the morning, with the cool air and calm waters reflecting the sunshine. Before long, however, the climbing began. We passed through quiet neighborhoods, an old church, and a mural depicting local women protesting a military occupation of the town. Then we found ourselves on a narrow path winding uphill between stone walls and gardens, with occasional overlooks offering beautiful views of the harbor below.

One of Bob’s favorite moments came when he noticed a lone snail slowly making its way across the path, somehow avoiding the many pilgrims passing by. It felt like a perfect Camino reminder: move at your own pace, embrace the moment, and appreciate the journey.

As we continued climbing, we stopped at the Church of Saint Mark. To my delight, the church was open, so we stepped inside for a quiet prayer. Shortly afterward came a surprise—a steep uphill section that arrived much sooner than expected. The climb wasn't long, but it certainly got our attention. The reward, however, was worth every step. At the top, we caught our first glimpse of the peninsula of Finisterre and the Faro de Fisterra lighthouse, often called the "End of the World." Seeing our destination in the distance lifted our spirits, even knowing several hours of walking still lay ahead.

The trail then transformed into a lush woodland path. We walked through beautiful forests surrounded by towering trees, birdsong filling the air around us. The dirt trail was soft and pleasant underfoot, a welcome change from rocky terrain, and every turn seemed to reveal another peaceful corner of Galicia.

As we crossed from the municipality of Cee into Fisterra, we passed a beautiful albergue and restaurant overlooking a small beach. Soon the coastline became a constant companion. We walked by one beach after another, still quiet in the early morning. At one point, we heard a dog enthusiastically barking. Looking down to the beach, we saw a couple flying a drone while the dog remained completely fascinated, barking and chasing after it while its owner unsuccessfully tried to call it back. It was one of those simple moments that brought an instant smile.

Near the beachside path leading into town, we reunited with our walking partner Gina, who had spent a couple of days on her own in Santiago and Fisterra. It felt as though she hadn't missed a step. Since it was still fairly early, we stopped at a café near the tourist office, where we picked up yet another credential marking the completion of our second Camino of this trip. Bob treated himself to a cappuccino and an amazing chocolate-covered donut and I had a cafe con leche with a yummy cookie.

Walking through Fisterra brought back memories from our last visit less than a year ago. The harbor, the narrow streets, and the familiar landmarks all felt wonderfully familiar. Along the way, I struck up a conversation with a gentleman wearing an Argentina shirt. Discovering our shared roots, I quickly connected, and before long we had dinner reservations at his asador for later that evening.

From town, we set out for the final few kilometers to the cape. The trail followed the main road but remained beautiful, with stunning coastal views accompanying us every step of the way. Then, finally, the lighthouse appeared. Soon after, we reached the famous 0.00 kilometer marker.

Standing there at the End of the World was everything we had hoped it would be. The lighthouse, the sweeping ocean views, the sailboats in the distance, the rugged shoreline, and the endless blue water stretching toward the horizon created a truly unforgettable scene. Although there were plenty of visitors, the atmosphere was joyful and celebratory. We spent a long time soaking it all in, sitting in the sunshine, sharing lunch, and enjoying a delicious Galician pie that Gina had picked up.

Bob and I are spending the night in the former lighthouse keeper's building, now a small hotel perched at the cape. After checking in and admiring the incredible views from our room, we dropped our backpacks, grabbed a taxi back into town, and found a place to enjoy a drink while waiting for dinner.

As I write this, we're sitting on the tiny balcony of Gina's hotel overlooking the harbor and the streets below. The restaurant doesn't open until after seven, and the town is settling into the evening. Looking out over the water, it's hard not to reflect on everything that brought us here.

To celebrate reaching the End of the World, we headed to the Argentine restaurant that Gina had discovered, and it did not disappoint. We enjoyed a delicious meal of fresh salad, empanadas, milanesas with fries, and a parrillada. Everything was absolutely wonderful—and there was far more food than we could possibly eat! The owners were from Argentina and clearly knew how to cook. Every bite was fantastic.

After dinner, we took a taxi back to our hotel at the lighthouse to watch the sunset. The wind was chilly at the cape, and the hotel manager kindly brought me a blanket, which was such a thoughtful gesture. Wrapped up and comfortable, we watched as the sun slowly sank into the Atlantic Ocean.

The sunset was breathtaking. We sat together enjoying a glass of wine and coffee with a Spanish liqueur—such a perfect way to celebrate the completion of our journey. The views, the company, and the moment itself were simply unforgettable.

Now it’s time to rest.

Tomorrow, Bob will take a bus back to Santiago before heading home, while I continue my adventure with Gina as we make our way to Muxía.

As I reflect on these past weeks, I am filled with gratitude. After all the miles, all the climbs, all the conversations, laughter, aches, prayers, and unforgettable moments, we've finally reached Finisterre—the End of the World.

Standing at Kilometer 0.00, watching the sun set over the Atlantic, it is hard to put into words what this journey has meant. The Camino has challenged us, humbled us, inspired us, and blessed us with friendships and memories that will last a lifetime.

What an incredible journey it has been.

Thank you for following along on this adventure. Buen Camino, and may God bless you all!Read more