• Michael Meyer
Jan – Mar 2020

Going Down Under

A 52-day adventure by Michael Read more
  • Zealandia (by day and night)

    February 15, 2020 in New Zealand ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    Zealandia is such a wonderful natural valley - unbelievable that it is located not even three km away from downtown Wellington. Once more, I enjoyed the forest with the only noises coming from birds and insects. I tried to spot some birds (even had my binoculars with me) and, every now and then, was succesful. I could observe some tuis, saw some whiteheads, as well as some kakas, but that was at a place where they get additional food. Furthermore, walking around in this peaceful nature was so nice. For dinner I went shortly back in the city before I had to be back at Zealandia at a quarter to eight at Zealandia because I had booked a night tour, mainly in the hope of spotting a kiwi. The night tour was gorgeous. We started in dusk, so we could still see pretty much. The guide showed us a shack colony, as well as something very special, two Takahe. Takahe are very threatened. Only 418 birds are known to be still living in New Zealand, so the takahe is much more threatened than the kiwi. It got darker every minute, but we were equipped with torches. We saw several tuataras, reptiles similar to lizzards, but in fact tuataras date back to the time of the dinosaurs. We passed by the kaka feeding station and our guide explained to us, that the reason of feeding them is to bind them to the area and to make them more visible for the visitors. They would find way enough food all around Wellington without the additional feeding and they do live all around the capital again - a success of Zealandia. We made our way through the forest, but had no kiwi spotted yet. In a creek we saw two huge eels. Their size was quite impressive. In some part of the forest we could see glowworms on both sides of the trail, almost more formidable than in the cave in Waitomo. And then, it happened. A kiwi on its search for food appeared😁 We could observe it for some minutes. What an amazing moment. Some minutes later we passed by a second one, but that one dissappeared again quite qickly. What an experience, this night tour in Zealandia, but after 2.5 hours it came to an end. I could have stayed much longer. Since the cable car does not operate after 10 p.m. I walked the three km down to the city. I passed by the university with some beautiful buildings. Actually, I had planned to check out the bars in Cuba Street, but I simply was too tired.Read more

  • Cook Strait

    February 16, 2020, Tasman Sea ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    Goodbye Wellington! 1.5 days have been way too few for this amazing city, but I think I gonna come back for some days in March. Not only goodbye Wellington, also goodbye North Island. On the Interislander Ferry I went from Wellington to Picton on the South Island, a trip of about 3.5 hours. On the Cook Strait itself it was very windy. When arriving to the South Island, we passed through a beautiful fjord-like landscape before arriving to Picton.Read more

  • Picton

    February 16, 2020 in New Zealand ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    I like Picton. It is a small town with a relatively large harbor, including a pretty large marina. However, I needed a quiet day today, so after arriving at the hostel I first slept about two hours (last night at the hostel in Wellington had been horrible - noisy and hot) and then I only went for a short walk to the marina and had my dinner in an Irish Pub. Well, that was pretty much it from today...Read more

  • Queen Charlotte Track

    February 17, 2020 in New Zealand ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    First full day on the South Island, first rainy day of my travel🤔 But that did not matter that much, it was not raining the whole day either. At 8:00 am I took a boat to Ship Cove, a place in the Queen Charlotte Sound where James Cook once landed and where nowadays the Queen Charlotte Track starts. The whole track takes about four to five days, I only did the first 18 km to Furneaux Lodge. Nathalie, a German historian, was on the same boat as I was, and we found out that we had the same plan for the day, so, wie did the hike together. Just, when we arrived at Ship Cove it started raining. Since the track begins in the forest, that was anyway not too bad. In the forest we saw quite a few Weekas(?), another kind of flightless New Zealand birds. The forest is a little different from those I had been on North Island, but also beautiful. I think, what makes the New Zealand forests so special to me are the ferns. From time to time we had nice views on the Queen Charlotte Sound; well, in the beginning not so nice because of the rain and the clouds. However, after an hour or so the rain stopped and we had a mix of sun and clouds. We had a break in a bay, and then, we had too speed up a bit because both of us had thought that it would be only 14 km too Furneaux Lodge, not 18. Anyway, the trail was not so difficult, so it was not a problem. The mix of forest and the views on the sound make the Queen Charlotte Track pretty nice, but I am not sure if I wanted to do the entire trail. However, this one day was definitely worth it😊At 3 pm the boat picked us up at Furneaux lodge. It had some other pickups, so we had a nice boat trip through the Sound as well. And then, shortly before Picton there was a big school of dolphins. It was so amazing to watch them😁 The skipper even turned and slowed the boat down to see them better. I think, I have never seen so many dolphins at once (maybe in Florida, when I was ten or so). What a great end of the trip and the highlight of the day!Read more

  • An average town, great landscape & seals

    February 18, 2020 in New Zealand ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    Another fantastic, but also a bit exhausting day! At 6:45 am I boarded the 7:00 am-bus from Picton to Kaikoura, about two hours south at the Pacific coast and famous for its whale watching. The bus ride was a mix of agricultural estates and beautiful coastal views. After I had seen quite a few sheep, I thought, that they had overtaken the cows by now, but then a few bunches of cows again😁 Kaikoura itself is not very beautiful or special, but the surroundings are gorgeous. First of all, it is diretly at the Pacific coast, so, you have the "sea breeze" in the air😉, furthermore nice black beaches. I did a 15 km, not very demanding walk around the Kaikoura peninsula. The rock formations in the sea are kind of impressive and on the peninsula you have a seal colony. Those guys are pretty much chilling in the sun... From above the shore you have amazing views. Once, I could see the view towards the other side of the peninsula, I was just flashed. What a coastal and alpine panorama! Unfortunately, I was in a little because the next adventure was about to come...Read more

  • Whale Watching

    February 18, 2020, South Pacific Ocean ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    What a surprise, yes, I went whale watching😂I had thought about not spending money for that, but I just wanted to do it. The tour was with a high speed boat, equipped with quite comfortable airplane-seats. We were only allowed to be outside when the vessel was not or only slowly moving. The first fascinating animals we saw, were in fact no whales, but albatrosses. Quite majestic birds with their wingspan of up to three meters. The area around Kaikoura is known for the sperm whales ("Pottwale"), that are permanently there, but only males. For the females that are about 30% smaller than the males, the water temperature is too low. The whale watch vessels try to locate the whales by listening to their whale songs. Sperm whales dive down for feeding for about 45 minutes and then come up to the water surface for some minutes. They eat big squid ("Tintenfisch") and fish, even sharks (also the great white shark), but they would never attack other mammals, a big difference to orcas who do so. A sperm whale could easily attack an orca, however, the orca is safe because it is a mammal. We saw the first sperm whale shortly before he dove down again, not enough time for photos... About twenty minutes later we were more lucky. The skipper had located the second whale early enough, that we could see him coming up and a few minutes later diving down. Honestly, it is impressive to see such a huge whale (the fourth largest of all whales the largest tooth-whale), but you can only estimate his seize and he is not doing much more than swimming just below the water surface - no comparison to the humpback whale ("Buckelwal") we saw jumping for almost one hour in Iceland. Well, the sperm whales in Iceland were as lazy as here😁 Closer to the shore we saw many dusky dolphins. What fascinating "little" guys, seeming to have so much fun jumping out the water again and again! It is more fun to watch the dolphins than the sperm whales. After such a great day, I had to treat myself with mussels for dinner😊

    P. S.: I might add further pictures from my camera to this footprint the next days.
    Read more

  • Christchurch

    February 19, 2020 in New Zealand ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    Today did not happen so much. I am in Christchurch now. The bus ride from Kaikoura to Christchurch was about three hours. In the beginning we followed the coastline and I could see many seals on the rocks. It was nice to watch them from the coach. Most of the time, we drove through a hilly agricultural environment with quite a few sheep, too😉 This afternoon, I just walked a bit in and around the city centre. The destruction of the 2011 earthquake is still visible almost everywhere🙁 You can only suspect, how beautiful the city centre must have been before the earthquake. Tomorrow, I am going to explore the city further...Read more

  • Another day in Christchurch

    February 20, 2020 in New Zealand ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    No alarm today😁 - except for the one of my roommate, but I managed to fall asleep again and only got up after 9:00 am. I made my way to the city centre again and started the day with an amazing french toast. Actually, I wanted to go on the city tour with the historic tram, but due to technical problems they offered only half of the tour today - the less interesting half. I was told, that I could get a refund for the ticket, which I had already bought yesterday, but I had to go to the place (tourist information) where I had bought it. Afterwards, I spent quite some time in the beautiful Botanic Gardens of Christchurch. In the gardens there is a pretty interesting historic site: one remaining building of the former Magnetic Observatory, which had been used for magnetic, gravitational, celestial, seismic, and atmospheric studies by antarctic explorers (e.g. Scott). Then I strolled back towards the city centre, i. a. I passed by the town hall. There, I realized, how beautiful the city arms ("Stadtwappen") are. After a cafe latte, I made my way back to the hostel (with a detour to a supermarket). After already having walked some 15 km, I added some 13 km running at the river Avon - really nice and I also got to see some parts of the city that I had not seen before. However, I can tell you, I really feel my calves ("Waden") now🙃Read more

  • Hiking in the rain, train in the sun

    February 21, 2020 in New Zealand ⋅ 🌧 12 °C

    Another day waking up early (6:45 am)... At 8:30 am I took a shuttle van to Arthur's Pass, a place in the mountain - a National Park in fact - supposed to have beautiful hiking trails as well as a good likelihood to see keas. Well, to be honest, the keas were the main reason why I wanted to go there. Unfortunately, I had chosen the most rainy day of the week. The closer the van got to the mountains the worse got the weather. Just before Arthur's Pass the rain started. Well, I was prepared for that, but, obviously, it was not very nice either. It really rained cats and dogs. Anyway, I wanted to go at least for some shorter hike and decided to take the trail up to the Devils Punchbowl Waterfall. In the beginning, I had to pass some kind of little stream, what normally should not be a problem at all, but it was filling up because of the rain. The way up to the waterfall is nice, but steep though. The forest was very different to those I had been to the last weeks, more similar to Europe, almost no ferns, way more mosses instead. Honestly, due to the rain it was not so much fun as it could be in better weather, however, I kind of enjoyed it. Because of the rain I could not take many photos either. Anyway, I went up to the waterfall and down again. Since the trail was a bit steep at some places the rain was already about turning the trail into small streams. It was definetely time to go down again. The stream from the beginning had filled up, almost no chance to get back with dry feet. Back in the village, I spent some two hours in a café. It just did not make sense to get more wet. At about 3 pm the rain stopped and the beautiful mountains got visible. I had about one hour to stroll a bit around the village and to enjoy the landscape. Well, wasn't their another reason, I wanted to go Arthur's Pass? Do you remember? Of course, the keas. In terms of this, I was not lucky🙁I did not spot any; only the bronze one at the kea kiosk🙃 I hope, to get at least one more chance to see keas. Just after 4 pm the Tranz Alpine train arrived to Arthur's Pass. I went back to Christchurch on that train. It is a pure tourist train, but it was quite something. In the good weather now, the views from the train were gorgeous and by the provided headphones you could get a lot of interesting information about the areas we passed through. Even though much rain and no keas another nice day in New Zealand😀Read more

  • Oamaru

    February 22, 2020 in New Zealand ⋅ ⛅ 11 °C

    I had to catch the southbound bus from Christchurch at 7:45 am, so another day of getting up very early; beautiful warm weather in Christchurch this morning. The coach went through the Canterbury planes, one of New Zealand largest agricultural areas. By the way, even though I still see a lot of cattle when sitting on the bus, the sheep certainly have taken the pole position by now😄Apparently, there are way more sheep on the South Island than on the North Island. The more south we came the worse got the weather. My today's destination was Oamaru about four hourss south of Christhurch at the Pacific Ocean. Well, it was raining quite a bit when we arrived there. Oamaru is mainly known for two things: its blue penguins and steampunk. Guess, why I wanted to come here🤔Furthermore, Oamaru has many Victorian buildings. When I arrived there, I immediately liked the city, even though the weather was so bad. I am glad to be here for two nights. My hostel is a small, a bit chaotic house with a strange, but nice "house mum" (Agra). There are seven beds in the dorm, where you normally would expect only four. The living room is very cosy, a good place four a rainy afternoon. Nevertheless, I also went for a little walk in the city and a cup of coffee in one of the nice cafés. The penguins only come once a day to the shore to feed their children and that's in the evening after 8:00 pm. I went with two of the girls staying in the same dorm for a beer in the local brewery and then we tried to find some penguins. If you want to go there, where most of them come to land you have to pay, but we decided not to do so. We were lucky, we saw three or four penguins. They are very cute😊The blue penguins are one of the smallest (or even the smallest?) penguins. Unfortunately, in the dark you can only guess that they are blue. Anyway, it was great to see them!😀We finished off the day with another beer in the brewery.Read more

  • Farmer's Market, Live Music and Gardens

    February 23, 2020 in New Zealand ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C

    No alarm in the morning😄Even managed not to get very much disturbed by the three persons in the dorm leaving early. I started my day with a run, partly at the Pacific shore. After breakfast in the hostel, I went to the Farmer's Market which takes place every Sunday in Oamaru. A nice little market, however not very spectacular either - except for Frank, a musician playing at the market. He was great, playing quite a few old songs that I liked very much (e.g. Morning has broken or Major Tom). I had a coffee and spent almost an hour listening to Tom. When Frank made a break a Scottish pipe band began playing at Brewery next to the Farmer's Market - great as well. Then, I began my tour through Oamaru passing the Victorian buildings and the Steampunk HQ. I walked through the beautiful Public Gardens, which I liked even more than the Botanic Gardens in Christchurch. I was on the way to a short hiking trail just above the city centre that the lady in the tourist information had recommended to me. Well, what she apparently had forgotten to tell me, was, that the one end of the trail - the one I had headed to - is closed due to a broken bridge. So, I had to follow a road instead, but there were not very many cars and I got to see an old millwheel that could be visited along the road. Then, I could do the second half of the trail, some good views on the city and the Pacific, however, not much more than a nice walk. Back in town, I had nice cold beer and some loaded fries at the brewery while another live band was playing there.Read more

  • Cape Wanbrow, Bushy Beach and penguins

    February 23, 2020 in New Zealand ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C

    After a little break at the hostel I made my way up the hill to the Cape Wanbrow walkways from where you have an excellent view on Oamaru as well as the Pacific. I walked once around the cape and then continued to Bushy Beach, a place where you can find yellow-eyed penguins, that are actually rarer then the blue ones, if you are lucky. According to the tourist information there are currently only two birds coming to the beach every evening. Well, I was not lucky enough to see them, but the beach was nice anyway and there was a seal as well as some birds I could watch with my binoculars. Before 8 pm I went back to town and to the blue penguin colony. I had decided to go directly to the colony, the place where you have to pay to watch them. I do not regret it, it was worth it. It is something different, to see some sixty penguins coming to the shore in groups of about thirty birds than one or two outside the colony closer to town where we were the day before. They are really cute when they come on land and then try to make their way up through the rocks through their nests. They even had to transcend two "obstacles" - a seal as well as later on a shag were resting in the middle of their way up which scared the one or other penguin. Unfortunately, it is not allowed to take pictures at the colony. Seeing the penguins was a great end of the day, though.Read more

  • Riverstone Castle

    February 24, 2020 in New Zealand ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    Guess what, last night I had the seven bed dorm on my own, no other guests in the hostel. I had the morning to spend in Oamaru because my bus further south to Dunedin went only after noon. Agra, the hostel's owner, took me to the Riverstone castle that belongs to a very rich farmer family. They built the castle some years ago because the lady has always wanted to live in a castle. There are also beautiful gardens for fruit, vegtables and herbs around and the family also runs a famous restaurant (Riverstone Kitchen) over there, apparently the best casual dining restaurant in New Zealand where even people from Auckland fly in for dinner by helicopter. The place is lovely and I thank Agra that she took me there to see it. Afterwards she also took me to a forest close by where she likes to go for a walk with her dog. We did not have very much time, but we went for a short walk together before going back to town, where she let me jum off at the bus stop.Read more

  • Dunedin

    February 24, 2020 in New Zealand ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    The bus ride to Dunedin was only about 90 minutes. I spent the afternoon in the hostel doing laundry and recovering a bit because I am pretty tired and I think, I have to include more recovery times into my schedule. After four weeks of dormitories I even treat myself with a single room for two nights. I need some privacy to get energy for the second part of this great journey (yes, almost exactly the half of my travel is over already😒). In the evening had a walk around the city. Dunedin means Edinburgh in Gaelic and the city got its name in relation to its "bigger sister" in Scotland from Scots who founded Dunedin. I've seen beautiful buildings and there definitely is a similarity to Edinburgh. Anyway, I went to bed pretty early😉Read more

  • Dunedin Street Art

    February 25, 2020 in New Zealand ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    I slept kind of long, about ninish or so, and started my day then with eggs Benedict in a café on George Street. For the morning and early afternoon, I had downladed the Dunedin street art map and strolled around the city looking for the artworks. There is quite some of those in Dunedin and the better part of them is pretty beautiful. A positive side effect was that I went through some parts of Dunedin I probably had never gone to otherwise. Since a pretty long afternoon and evening program was waiting for me, I enjoyed lunch and a great beer at Emerson's brewery before I moved on...Read more

  • Otago Peninsula Wildlife

    February 25, 2020 in New Zealand ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    At 3:00 pm I was picked up by Elm Wildlife Tours to go to the Otago peninsula, and in particular to the Cape Saunders conservation area. On the way, there we saw a bunch of seabirds from the van, very special were the white spoonbills ("Löffler"). The first stop was the Albatross centre, a conservation area for Northern Royal Albatrosses, and their only onshore breeding place at all. After an introduction by the guide and a short movie about the centre, we could go up the hill to a viewing shelter from where you can watch some of the nesting area. The albatrosses are very beautiful and impressive birds. Afterwards, we continued to the Cape Saunders conservation area, a gorgeous and peaceful location, which is located on private land where only Elm Tours has access to. The area is mainly dedicated to the yellow-eyed penguins, the rarest penguin on the world with just about 400 birds living only in New Zealand (at the east coast of the South Island), but there are also fur seals, sea lions and little blue penguins. Scientist expect the yellow-eyed penguin to be extinct in ten years time from now, mainly because of not finding enough food and having no suitable habitats. The yellow-eyed penguins are actually considered a forest bird and need trees to build their nests under. The trees at Cape Saunders have been brought in by humans to create a habitat for the penguins. We started at the rocks where the fur seals live. How agile and playful they are! They are very active on the rocks and can climb up pretty well. Then, we went to the penguin and sea lion beach. The sea lions are not as active as the fur seals. Most of them were just lying on the beach or moving slowly towards and in the water. We were really lucky to see quite a few penguins. The first one was lying in a kind of puddle not moving. According to the guides that was quite unusual behavior and it might have been in trouble. They wanted to bring in a scientist to check whether the penguin needed to be taken to the wildlife hospital. We saw some more penguins walking and standing on the beach, as well as moving up the hill where their nests are. It is funny to watch them and also kind of affecting when you think about that these guys might not exist anymore in ten years time. I am glad, that I could see them, and with all the other wildlife we saw, it was just a great experience.Read more

  • Queenstown

    February 26, 2020 in New Zealand ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    Today I did not move further south, actually a little bit north-, but mainly westwards. I am in Queenstown now, on the fringes of the Southern Alps. The 4.5 hours bus ride was quite scenic, in particular the closer we came to the mountains. I saw many many sheep, some cattle and also some deer, furthermore orchards and vineyards. Where there was no agriculture it was either green or rocky or both, certainly similar to Scotland or some parts of Iceland and a suitable location for movies like Lord of the Rings. I would have loved to be able to stop here and there and to walk around a little bit. The location of Queenstown is gorgeous, between the mountains at a beautiful lake (Lake Wakatipu). It is a touristic centre with many hotels, shops and restaurants, as well as tour operators of all kinds. I did not do very much today, just two walks around the centre of the town, one for a late lunch and one for ice cream🙃Read more

  • Craft Beer Tour

    February 27, 2020 in New Zealand ⋅ 🌬 22 °C

    What a day - no alarm, not too much program (just a relaxed craft beer tour in the afternoon😂), no hurry... Anyway, I was active, too, at least in the morning. After waking up at 9:00 am (last days I sleep very badly at the hostels), I went for a run at the lake. I was not in a good shape though. I ran some 10 km, but I really had to fight to make this happen, after 6 km I was already about giving up. At noon I was picked up for a craft beer brewery tour. I was the only participant, but it was great anyway. So, I had a lot of time to talk with Lewis who runs these tours. First, he took me to the Altitude Brewery on the fringes of Queenstown. Pretty small location with a cool atmosphere with skis and lift seats on the "terrace". They have some twenty beers on tap. I could choose five of them which was not so easy😀 Well, I think, I had a good mix with a plisner, a pale ale, an India pale ale, a sour and a stout. I liked them all, well, the sour (it is sour!) for me only matches a hot summer day/evening when you want a really refreshing beer. Then, Lewis took me to the Cargo Brewery about half an hour away from Queenstown which used to be a winery before it was turnt into a brewery about two years ago. The tasting room is an old church. There, I could taste four beers together with four corresponding small dishes: a refreshing lager wih some cheese, a wheat beer with a spicy sausage, an India Pale Lager with some jalapeño cheese balls, and a porter with a chocolate cake. All went really well together. I did like the wheat pretty much because it had some notes of banana, also very nice for a hot summer evening. I think, I had never drunken an India Pale Lager before. It has a more interesting taste than a regular lager. After Cargo, we had some spare time before going to the last brewery. Lewis took me to Arrowtown, a little town which was founded in the gold rush of the late 19th century. I am happy, I could see it. On my own, I would never have gone there. On the way back to Queenstown, we had to wait for a rescue helicopter to land on the road. There were also many police and fire brigade cars. It must have been a heavy crash, but we could not see any details. Lewis decided not to wait for the road to be opened again, but to turn and take another road. We came into Queenstown over Queenstown hill. I was flashed by the view on Lake Wakatipu, the mountains and Queenstown - amazing! The weather had become so nice again. When we started the tour there were many dark clouds and Lewis expected it start raining soon. Fortunately, the clouds pushed along with only a few drops of rain. The last brewery - the Searchlight Brewery - was in Queenstown again; a pretty hidden location in a commercial/industrial area. Here, I could chose four from sixteen beers, again not easy, but I went four a "wheat" (not so special like the one before, but also good [close to a "Kristallweizen"]), a brut IPA (very special), a red ale (very nice to drink), and a milk stout (a nice sweetness from the added milk). At Searchlight, I could also visit the brewing area with the malt mill, the heating tanks as well as the brew tanks - pretty small, considering that they have sixteen beers on tap. I also bought a bottle of beer there which I am going to enjoy the next days. Searchlight was the end of the great tour. I thank Lewis, that he ran it even though I was the only customer. After the tour, I got some stuff organised for the weeks to come and went for dinner and a beer at a craft beer place in town where I could get a 15% discount because I had gone on Lewis' tour.Read more

  • Stewart Island

    February 28, 2020 in New Zealand ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    I am on Stewart Island now (much more south is not possible in New Zealand😀). It was a five hour journey from Queenstown. A van picked me up at 7:00 am. We had to change the van twice (in Mossburn and in Invercargill). The drive was most of the time not that spectacular, furthermore I was pretty tired and was sleeping for a while. From Bluff at the shore I took the ferry to Stewart Island, about one hour sail on a catamaran motor vessel. Oban, the main village on Stewart Island, is pretty small. How quiet and peaceful it is here: just a small supermarket, one café, one hotel with bar, one fish and chips place. It is nice to be here. Anyway, in the afternoon I was not doing anything special because I was very tired.Read more

  • Kiwis

    February 28, 2020 in New Zealand ⋅ 🌧 10 °C

    It was a long evening, but such a great experience; maybe the highlight of my trip, at least one of the top 3 probably. After a beer at the hotel bar (the cheapest place to have a beer I've gotten to know so far in NZL - I would never have expected that in the bar of the only hotel on Stewart Island) I went to the wharf where the Kiwi encounters tour was to start at 8:30 pm - sixteen people, two guides, one skipper going by boat to a remote area of Stewart Island where kiwis can be found feeding in the bush as well as on the beach. The tour started off with a very interesting presentation about the Stewart Island kiwi which can only be found here. They are relatively tall kiwis (6-8 kg). Some interesting information were e. g., that they live in kind of groups (very atypic for kiwis), that the parents and even other kiwis share the incubation of the eggs and that the egg can make up to 25% of the whole body weight of a female kiwi. Furthermore, the hedged kiwi is practically fully developed and will not be fed by the parents at all. They will get some assistance by the parents, but after one week they are completely on their own. The boat ride was about half an hour, not much to be seen in the dark. It also had started raining, during the presentation, but when we arrived at the kiwi place it was dry again😀 We went out in the bush in two groups of eight people and one guide each. It was completely dark, but we had torches. We were so lucky to spot the first kiwi after about fifteen minutes already. It was a female not taking care of us at all, moving around and feeding. We could watch her for more than twenty minutes. It was amazing. I was lucky to see the second kiwi - a male - for a few seconds because at that point of time I was walking on the third position of the group. The last ones did not get to see him because he disappeared very quickly in the bush again. We made our way to the beach where we saw the third kiwi. He was running around very fast - I would not have expected them to be so fast. Beside the kiwi, there was a stunning sky. I have not seen such a beautiful sky without light pollution for a long time. On our way back to the boat, we saw another kiwi; might have been the first one again, we do not know. It had gotten pretty cold, so, back on the boat, I think, everyone appreciated the hot chocolate and cookies that were offered. At 1:00 am we arrived back at the wharf in Oban. I was very tired, but it was a wonderful evening.Read more

  • A quiet day on Stewart Island

    February 29, 2020 in New Zealand ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    I only got up after 9:00 am, but again did not sleep well. From the beginning it felt like a lazy day. I did not feel like doing a lot. At about 11:00, I went to the small Stewart Island museum. It is a small house with only two rooms. There are many different things exhibited (e. g. mussels, fishing equipment, sawmill equipment, a maori bag made from kiwi feathers, and much more). It appears a little chaotic; however, the whole museum is run by volunteers, so, they do a good job. Most impressive to me was the kiwi feather bag, as well as some art on whale teeth. After some quiet time again, in the afternoon I went on a 10 km hike around a peninsula to the Horseshoe Bay. The track was pretty beautiful. I was back in the forest again, with many ferns and birdsung again😄; in between beautiful views on the sea, bays and beaches. After a beer in the hotel bar (I really like that place🙃), I had my dinner (just bread with some spread, I had a fish burger for lunch...) at the hostel and then went for one more little walk to view sunset from Observation Rock and to enjoy dusk at the sea.Read more

  • Birds, brain and band

    March 1, 2020 in New Zealand ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    Another day to charge the battery a bit... After getting up without any alarm again and starting the day slowly, I went to Ulva Island, a small island close to Stewart Island, which is well-known for its birdlife. The whole island is basically a forest, so beautiful and quiet. There are a few tracks open to the public, but more than half of the island is not accessible to the public. I enjoyed four hours on Ulva, took my time and tried to spot and observe as many birds as possible. I saw quite a few smaller birds like the tomtit, the Stewart Island robin, maybe a silvereye and/or a grey warbler, furthermore quite a few New Zealand parakeets (beautiful green birds with a red crown) and wekas, some oystercatchers, as well as two kakas (the lowland counterparts to the keas in the mountains), one of them very close. One of the robins was kind of brave. It was on the track pretty close to me and I was standing still watching it. Then, it came twice on my feet picking on my hiking boots. The one kaka was sitting on a branch close to the track cleaning its feathers. I could watch it for a pretty long time. A weka wanted to pass me while I was standing still watching it. It came slowly towards me. When it was very close to me, it started running to pass me quickly😀The silence in the forest, the birdsung and the smell of the forest as well as the sea was once again great to calm down and relax. In the evening there was a pub quiz in the hotel bar. I did not take part actively, but I was having a beer at the bar listening to the questions, and in the second half I kind of assisted one of the teams. We did not know very much though🙃Later, there was live music in the pub. The band was pretty good, playing a good mix with kind of a focus on country music. Anyway, I was once more pretty tired and did not stay to the end of the concert.Read more

  • Back in Queenie

    March 2, 2020 in New Zealand ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    Goodbye Stewart Island, what a beautiful and peaceful place... I took the 8:00 am ferry back to Bluff on the South Island. From Bluff a minibus took me to Invercargill where I had to change to another minibus. I had abouf half an hour before the next bus departed, so I did a "speed tour" around the city centre of Invercargill - at the first and only glance nothing special. On the way to Mossburn where I had to change again, I slept most of the time, but from Mossburn to Queenstown, I watched the beautiful landscape with the mountains. Back in Queenie, I first did my laundry and at 5:00 pm, I went for a short hike on the Tiki Track which goes up the mountain behind Queenstown (you can take a gondola as well) - only 8 km back and forth, but an elevation difference of some 500 meters. A good part of the track was quite steep and the surface quite demanding. You should definitely wear hiking boots. For me it was much fun, but it is definetely no track for someone who has no hiking experience. However, I also saw a (female) idiot doing the track in flipflops. I did the ascent in one hour and seven minutes and was once more rewarded by a stunning view on Lake Wakatipu. Well, I had also brought a beer and there actually cannot be many more beautiful places to have it😄 I had to go the same way down again. At some points you definetely have to be cautious and slow down. After a well-deserved shower, I went for dinner in town.Read more

  • Scenic drive to and from Milford Sound

    March 3, 2020 in New Zealand ⋅ 🌧 13 °C

    What a long day - at 7:20 am the bus from Queenstown to Milford Sound started, at about 8:30 pm we were back in Queenie. The air-line distance is not even one hundred kilometers, but because of the mountains and the respective roads going to Milford Sound from Queenstown is a more than 300 km one-way drive. It was raining quite heavily when we left Queenstown. The bus driver, Paulie, was really cool. You could feel, that he loves his job and the nature of Fjordland National Park, which Milford is a part of. He told us so many stories and information about the area we were driving through. In the beginning he was talking for more than one hour without any break. It was super interesting what he was saying, but, since I had slept not very well once again, I just wished he would stop talking for a while😄We had a refreshment stop in Te Anau. I used the opportunity to have a quick look around the main street as well as the lake. After Te Anau the road to Milford got really scenic. The Fjordland National Park is really beautiful. I would have loved to be able walk around, but the view from the bus was better than nothing🙃Nevertheless, it was raining again. At the moment, the Milford Road is only open to touristic busses. About a month ago, there were a big thunderstorm and floodings that destroyed some parts of the road. The busses need to go in a convoy through the most destroyed area. The convoy starts at 12:00 pm. Paulie wanted to be in the back of the convoy because our cruiseship at Milford was the last one to be boarded. So, we very cruising relatively slowly and could enjoy the landscape. After we were released from the convoy we made an additional photo stop. Whereas most of the people were mainly interested in the river and the bridge, I also had a glimpse in to the forest, which is supposed to be a rainforest. The area around Milford gets the most rain in whole New Zealand. When we arrived at Milford, I hoped that some keas where there. Well, no luck, no keas... At about 1:30 pm, we boarded the cruise ship...Read more

  • Milford Sound

    March 3, 2020 in New Zealand ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    Milford Sound is gorgeous - except for Oslo Fjord I have not been to the Norwegian fjords yet, and I like the Icelandic westfjords -, but Milford definitely is a highlight. Did you know, that the name Milford SOUND is actually incorrect. Paulie had explained to us that a sound was originally created by a river and then flooded by seawater, whereas a fjord was created by a glacier. Well, Milford was created by a glacier or according to Maori belief by a demi-good who carved all the fjords in Fjordland National Park with Milford being the last, the most northern and his masterpiece. The reason that the New Zealand fjords are called sounds is, that in the English language there did not exist a word for "fjord" when the names were given. Only, in the middle of the twentieth century the word "fjord" was transferred from Norwegian into English and that's why the National Park is called FJORDland. The rain had stopped by the time the cruise started. There were still some "mystic" clouds, but also blue sky could be seen in between. Due to the rainfalls in the night and morning there were many temporary waterfalls that only come into existence after rainfalls. The waterfalls gave an additional beauty to the landscape. At the edge to the Tasman Sea the ship turned around back into the fjord. At one rock we could see some furseals and twice the captain steered the vessel directly into a waterfall. I enjoyed the cruise very much. Well, after 90 minutes the cruise was over and we had to drive the five hours back to Queenie. When we came back to the harbor, still no keas had appeared. That made me a little sad, but I was hoping for more one more chance to see them at Mount Cook. On the way back, Paulie did not talk as much as on the way to Milford. Most of the time, I was just looking out of the window. For the last two hours, Paulie had put a movie with Anthony Hopkins about the New Zealand motorcycle race driver Burt Munro on the screen which was pretty good. I tried following the film as well as looking out of the window😂Back in Queenstown on the way to the hostel, I went for a beer and some fries into a bar. Anyway, I was pretty tired and did not stay very long.Read more