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Exploring the Americas
  • Jan Henle
  • Jan Henle

Exploring the Americas

Esther and Jan's trip through South and Central America Read more
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  • Trip start
    August 11, 2022
  • Jan HenleExploring the AmericasTraveler

    Lima day 1

    August 12, 2022 in Peru ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    After the three quintessential todos (cash, sim card, ceviche for Esther) and a walk around a neighborhood Miraflores, we did a walking tour in the historical center of Lima. Even though we are still quite tired from the flights, we had a good first impression.Read more

  • Jan HenleExploring the AmericasTraveler

    Cusco

    August 14, 2022 in Peru ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    Cusco was the Inka capital and even after the Spanish conquered the city, it remains the hub of the Andes, only more churches now:)
    When we visited, there was a huge parade of alumni of the local university. Drunk, singing men everywhere. In the end, we even made it up to the Inka fortress of Sacsayhuaman, quite a feat considering we woke up 3700 meters lowerRead more

  • Jan HenleExploring the AmericasTraveler

    Sacred valley

    August 15, 2022 in Peru ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    The sacred valley runs from Cusco to machu Picchu and is filled with Inka ruins and gorgeous views. We stopped at Chinchero "textile" village, the Maras salt mines, the "greenhouse" terraces at Moray and stayed for the night in Ollantaytambo enjoying the most impressive ruins yet. Amazing landscapes, and even in tourist restaurants, the food is just to die for.Read more

  • Jan HenleExploring the AmericasTraveler

    Inka Trail

    August 16, 2022 in Peru ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    Thankfully still jetlagged, we got up at 4:30am to catch the train to Machu Picchu, but got off at km104 in order to walk the last day of the classical Inka trail (lazy, but there is no way I could get Esther to camp for four days). More ruins along the way, but especially the scenery was what made our day. Ok, I take it back, the first glimpse of Machu Picchu was the highlight. Tomorrow, we'll explore the site more in-depthRead more

  • Jan HenleExploring the AmericasTraveler

    Machu Picchu

    August 17, 2022 in Peru ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    After one night in the tourist hole of Aguas Calientes, we got up very early once again to explore the ruins of Machu Picchu. Amazing how well preserved this Holy Site is. The Inkas abandoned it when the Spanish came so it remained forgotten until 1911.
    After exploring the site, we went up Machu Picchu mountain for yet more spectacular views. The scenery alone made this one of our best hikes, even if Machu Picchu wasn't there.
    Finally, a long way back to Cusco with bus, train, bus, taxi, walk.    Read more

  • Jan HenleExploring the AmericasTraveler

    Rainbow mountains Palcoyo

    August 18, 2022 in Peru ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    The rainbow mountains are rock formations a few hours from Cusco, formed by iron and other minerals. Unfortunately, they're located at 5000m altitude. Only explored touristically in the last five years, they're one of the top sights in cusco now. There are in fact two, Vinicunca, the better explored and crowded one and Palcoyo, which apparently is blissfully empty in comparison. We went to Palcoyo and despite the long drive, were very happy we did so.Read more

  • Jan HenleExploring the AmericasTraveler

    Cusco

    August 19, 2022 in Peru ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    After all the long days of hard core sightseeing, we chose to skip yet more Inka ruins in Pisac and just relaxed in Cusco on our last day in the area. We did check out the cathedral (think terrible catholic kitsch) and Qorikancha (a catholic convent built on the most important Inka temple still partially visible/integrated into the convent); but mostly we went from cafe to restaurant to cafe and I had guinea pig for the third time (baked this time). I must admit I have not become a fan.Read more

  • Jan HenleExploring the AmericasTraveler

    Arequipa

    August 20, 2022 in Peru ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    After our first night bus (on which we unfortunately didn't sleep too much), we arrived in Arequipa. Peru's second biggest city is also called the white city due to many buildings built with white volcanic rock. We met our guide Johselm who will take us to Colca Canyon the next days and went to a local market. Afterwards we explored the historic city center, most notably the convent of Santa Catalina, a "city within the city", where nun lived secluded for 400 years and still live to this day.Read more

  • Jan HenleExploring the AmericasTraveler
    1

    Colca Canyon

    August 21, 2022 in Peru ⋅ ☀️ 15 °C

    Next up is a two day one night hike in the Colca Canyon, which is twice as deep as the Grand Canyon and the major tourist draw card in Arequipa.
    We had to get up at 12:15am (yes, basically midnight) to drive 7 hours to the start of the trek - driving times are crazy in Peru. We chose a guide who led us to a side arm of the canyon, so we were the only tourists all day. The scenery was quite spectacular. The hotel for the night had natural hot pools, where we relaxed for the rest of the afternoon.
    The next morning we went out of the canyon again to spot condors (success!), enjoy the views of the terraces, try "Colca Sour" (Pisco sour made with local prickly pears) and drive over the Colca pass (4900m) again back to Arequipa to catch our flight to Lima.    Read more

  • Jan HenleExploring the AmericasTraveler
    1

    Lima stopover

    August 23, 2022 in Peru ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    As you can't travel directly from the south to the north, we had one day in Lima before catching the night bus to the Carrillera Blanca mountain range.
    We stayed late in our hostel and then did a foodie tour. As a bonus, when walking by the presidential palace, we did see the actual Peruvian president, who was taking part in a military funeral ceremony.Read more

  • Jan HenleExploring the AmericasTraveler

    Caraz

    August 24, 2022 in Peru ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    In order to explore the Cordillera Blanca mountain range, we didn't choose the more obvious hub Huaraz, but based ourselves in Caraz nearby. The village is nice, and there was a 4500-year-old ruin just 500m down the street, which has almost not been excavated yet and people literally live on top of the ruins - but I guess there are so many ruins in Peru, you can't shape up all of them at the same time.
    The highlight was our hotel though, IntiRumi Inn, with a gorgeous garden and delicious food, where we spent most of the day.    Read more

  • Jan HenleExploring the AmericasTraveler

    Laguna 69

    August 25, 2022 in Peru ⋅ ☀️ 10 °C

    After a relaxing day, we once again got up at 5am to drive into the mountains themselves to hike to the famed Laguna 69, a mesmerizingly blue lake surrounded by snow-covered peaks.
    Unfortunately I had some stomach problems and we were both not as acclimatized as we had hoped, so walking 15km back and forth from 3800m-4600m was...we have done more enjoyable things.
    The Laguna (and the scenery on the hike) were all worth it though.    Read more

  • Jan HenleExploring the AmericasTraveler
    1

    Laguna Parón

    August 26, 2022 in Peru ⋅ ☀️ 9 °C

    After yesterday's near-death experience, we were sold when we learned there is another Laguna nearby with a road right up the shore.
    Laguna Parón is the biggest of the Lagunas in the area and surrounded by a number of majestic peaks, one of which was the model for the logo if Paramount Pictures.
    We only hiked up a little to the viewpoint and then kayaked on the lake for a change.
    Overall another otherworldly view, definitely one of the highlights in all of Peru. We could easily stay in the area for another few days and explore more, but it is off to the coast to Trujillo tonight.    Read more

  • Jan HenleExploring the AmericasTraveler
    2

    Huanchaco

    August 27, 2022 in Peru ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    To get from the Cordillera mountains to the rainforest in Chachapoyas, you need a stopover at the coast in Trujillo. Instead of the big city, we stayed in the fisherman/surfer village of Huanchaco (you guessed correctly: More Ceviche restaurants for Esther...). Huanchaco has a relaxed vibe and a beautiful seaside promenade.
    We still went out to visit both Trujillo city center with its beautiful main square and pedestrian street, as well as one of the many ruins in the area. A number of Pre-Inka civilizations left their mark, such as the Chimú, Sipán and Moche. The temple of the moon and sol (Moche) is made of adobe (the material, not the Software company), but has beautifully colored murals. Even cooler is the fact that excavations are still ongoing. On the very informative tour, we saw equipment in place as well as sections that were only uncovered a few weeks before.    Read more

  • Jan HenleExploring the AmericasTraveler

    Chan Chan

    August 28, 2022 in Peru ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    With only a half day to spare before a grueling 16h night bus, we explored the ruins of Chan Chan in the morning.
    Chan Chan is entirely made of adobe again, and apparently used to be the largest city in all of the Americas before Columbus with 60000 inhabitants.
    You need a little imagination, as much was washed away by the rain over the centuries (the Spanish abandoned chan chan and built Trujillo nearby) and quite a few sections were rebuilt. Nonetheless, we enjoyed the visit. Almost as much as the final Ceviche we had afterwards, as we will not return to the Peruvian coast.    Read more

  • Jan HenleExploring the AmericasTraveler
    5

    Chachapoyas

    August 29, 2022 in Peru ⋅ 🌧 15 °C

    The 16h night bus was less excruciating than expected, as we had once again splurged and got the 160° seats. Nonetheless, our first day in Chachapoyas was set to be more relaxed. Chachapoyas (meaning "cloud forest people") is yet again another town/language/region/Pre-Inka civilization. Officially already part of the Amazon, Chachapoyas is set in green hills, sports a nice centro histórico and is surrounded by numerous sights. The first we explored on arrival was the Sonche Canyon, apparently deeper than the Grand Canyon. A notable highlight for dinner was a cocktail with ants:)Read more

  • Jan HenleExploring the AmericasTraveler

    Kuelap

    August 30, 2022 in Peru ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

    Kuelap, also called Machu Picchu of the North, was a Pre-Inka city beautifully located on a mountain top surrounded by lush green hills.
    Recently equipped with the first cable car in all of Peru, it is unfortunately closed for tourism until further notice as one of the walls collapsed, so you can only go to the site but cannot enter.
    We went anyway, as the scenery was still supposed to be worth the trip. Unfortunately the weather lived up to the "cloud forest" name of the region, i.e. we didn't see a lot. Regardless, we don't regret we went, we could still see how this place is amazing if the weather were nice and you were able to enter the site itself    Read more

  • Jan HenleExploring the AmericasTraveler

    Gocta

    August 31, 2022 in Peru ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

    Not too happy with our hotel in Chachapoyas and heading north anyway, we chose not to explore the second top sight in the area - Gocta waterfalls - in a tour from Chachapoyas, but to base ourselves in Gocta village (Cocachimba).
    After checking into our beautiful cabin, we then drove to the next village (San Pablo) to start the famed Gocta circuit.
    Labelled as the third highest waterfall in the world at 771m (actually split in two sections of ~250m and ~500m, so not sure if that counts), Gocta is nested in a lush green cliff at the end of a long valley.
    The hike started in fields, went through Mediterranean pine forests and got greener and rainforestier the closer we got. When we arrived at the water edge (technically there are two separate points for the upper and the lower falls), the water seemed more like clouds or a reverse candle flame than like a waterfall - almost spiritual. Locals understandably deemed this place haunted which is why it was only explored for tourism 15 years ago.
    After 17km/6 hours, we returned to our cabins for a tasty last supper, before we set out for the Ecuador border the next day. Definitely one of the best day hikes we ever did and a strong end to our time in Peru.    Read more

  • Jan HenleExploring the AmericasTraveler

    ++Ecuador++

    September 1, 2022 in Ecuador ⋅ ⛅ 29 °C

    Today was all about traveling. Getting up at 4:30 (yuk), we walked 10mins from our cabin to the village main square to take a 30min tuktuk down to the main road. There, we hopped on the pre-arranged 3h shuttle to Jaén, which we explored a bit as we were early and had planned some buffer. The town is not pretty, but it was interesting as they don't see many tourists.
    Finally at 1pm, we really boarded our unexpectedly comfortable bus that would take us all the way to Ecuador. The road was ok (but curvy) on the Peruvian side, landscapes went from rice fields (reminded us of East Asia), to lush green hills. Reaching the border at 5pm, we were nervous as this is the least busy border crossing, is not even listed in the website of the German foreign ministry and was sometimes closed in the past. However, the procedures went smooth and relaxed.
    Back on the bus, the scenery stayed beautifully green, but would remain unpaved for the next 4 hours (40km). Therefore we only reached our final destination of Vilcabamba around midnight. What a trip.    Read more

  • Jan HenleExploring the AmericasTraveler

    Vilcabamba

    September 2, 2022 in Ecuador ⋅ ⛅ 26 °C

    After the long trip, we took things a bit slower in Vilcabamba. The town is very popular with American retirees (there apparently was a feature about the longevity of its people in a magazine in the 1950s), and the infrastructure shows. Western cafés and restaurants abound and were actually filled with gringos in the expected age range.
    It is understandable though, as the town is beautifully placed amidst green hills. In the morning, we went up the Mandango viewpoint, went for all vegetarian lunch, then relaxed at the pool of our fancier hotel, and then had middle eastern dinner - will be interesting to compare, once we get to the actual Ecuador:)    Read more

  • Jan HenleExploring the AmericasTraveler

    Cuenca

    September 3, 2022 in Ecuador ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    A four hour drive through juicy green mountains (changing buses in the city Loja, which looked nice but which we unfortunately had to skip), we arrived in the capital of southern Ecuador, Cuenca.
    Cuenca actually means "water basin", as many streams from the nearby mountains meet here. First a cañary settlement, then an Inka town, then a Spanish city and now Ecuadorian, Cuenca is proud of its own cuisine, history and even accent.
    We took a walking tour in the afternoon, saw some of the many churches and got a first feel of the city.    Read more

  • Jan HenleExploring the AmericasTraveler

    Cajas

    September 4, 2022 in Ecuador ⋅ ⛅ 8 °C

    Cajas national park, very close to Cuenca, is located between 3000-4500m altitude and features a highland tundra landscape with hundreds of lagoons.
    Despite rainy weather forecast, we set out for a small hike and were rewarded with an eerie landscape and even some unobstructed views when the clouds dispersed for short periods of time. The trip was rounded off with tasty trouts in one of the many trout farms.Read more

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