Aug – Oct 2022

Exploring the Americas

Esther and Jan's trip through South and Central America Read more

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Trip start
August 11, 2022
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Wednesday, August 10, 2022 at 8:00 AM
☁️ 14 °C
Altitude: 35 m
Peru Jorge Chávez International Airport -12.020153, -77.10966312°1’13” S 77°6’35” W
Setting off
August 10, 2022 in Peru ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C
Last time beautiful Düsseldorf Holthausen subway stop
TravelerOh, two lovely penguins!
8/10/22Reply
Traveler:D
8/10/22Reply
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Day 1
Thursday, August 11, 2022
☀️ 17 °C
Altitude: 34 m
Peru Jorge Chávez International Airport -12.024591, -77.10716112°1’29” S 77°6’26” W
The long journey to Lima
August 11, 2022 in Peru ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C
After three flights and lots of waiting time, we have finally arrived in Lima, Peru. The adventure can finally start...
I want the barcodes please 😅 [Leo]
9/12/22Reply
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Day 2
Friday, August 12, 2022
⛅ 17 °C
Altitude: 152 m
Peru Plaza Mayor -12.045856, -77.03057212°2’45” S 77°1’50” W
Lima day 1
August 12, 2022 in Peru ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C
After the three quintessential todos (cash, sim card, ceviche for Esther) and a walk around a neighborhood Miraflores, we did a walking tour in the historical center of Lima. Even though we are still quite tired from the flights, we had a good first impression.Read more
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Day 3
Saturday, August 13, 2022 at 10:34 PM
⛅ 14 °C
Altitude: 86 m
Peru Malecón Cisneros -12.117205, -77.03347412°7’2” S 77°2’1” W
Lima day 2
August 13, 2022 in Peru ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C
Walking down clifftop lover's lane, exploring hipster barranco and Esther's birthday present: 15 courses of heavenly delights
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Day 4
Sunday, August 14, 2022
⛅ 17 °C
Altitude: 3,453 m
Peru Cusco -13.512717, -71.97572713°30’46” S 71°58’33” W
Cusco
August 14, 2022 in Peru ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C
Cusco was the Inka capital and even after the Spanish conquered the city, it remains the hub of the Andes, only more churches now:)
When we visited, there was a huge parade of alumni of the local university. Drunk, singing men everywhere. In the end, we even made it up to the Inka fortress of Sacsayhuaman, quite a feat considering we woke up 3700 meters lowerRead more
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Day 5
Monday, August 15, 2022
⛅ 16 °C
Altitude: 2,859 m
Peru Ollantaytambo -13.257744, -72.26404113°15’28” S 72°15’51” W
Sacred valley
August 15, 2022 in Peru ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C
The sacred valley runs from Cusco to machu Picchu and is filled with Inka ruins and gorgeous views. We stopped at Chinchero "textile" village, the Maras salt mines, the "greenhouse" terraces at Moray and stayed for the night in Ollantaytambo enjoying the most impressive ruins yet. Amazing landscapes, and even in tourist restaurants, the food is just to die for.Read more
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Day 6
Tuesday, August 16, 2022
⛅ 18 °C
Altitude: 2,092 m
Peru Machu Picchu -13.154314, -72.52690613°9’16” S 72°31’37” W
Inka Trail
August 16, 2022 in Peru ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C
Thankfully still jetlagged, we got up at 4:30am to catch the train to Machu Picchu, but got off at km104 in order to walk the last day of the classical Inka trail (lazy, but there is no way I could get Esther to camp for four days). More ruins along the way, but especially the scenery was what made our day. Ok, I take it back, the first glimpse of Machu Picchu was the highlight. Tomorrow, we'll explore the site more in-depthRead more
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Day 7
Wednesday, August 17, 2022
⛅ 18 °C
Altitude: 2,463 m
Peru Montaña Machu Picchu -13.164837, -72.54509413°9’53” S 72°32’42” W
Machu Picchu
August 17, 2022 in Peru ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C
After one night in the tourist hole of Aguas Calientes, we got up very early once again to explore the ruins of Machu Picchu. Amazing how well preserved this Holy Site is. The Inkas abandoned it when the Spanish came so it remained forgotten until 1911.
After exploring the site, we went up Machu Picchu mountain for yet more spectacular views. The scenery alone made this one of our best hikes, even if Machu Picchu wasn't there.
Finally, a long way back to Cusco with bus, train, bus, taxi, walk.Read more
Travelermarvelous!
8/19/22Reply
TravelerLieber Jab. Jetzt hab ich mir das alles mal in Ruhe angesehen. Was mir auffällt- ich hatte überall mit viel mehr touristischen Massen gerechnet - vor allem in Cousco - oder habt ihr es immer geschafft "leere" Winkel mit der camera zu erwischen? Weiterhin viele spannende sightseeings und Abenteuer. Mama
8/19/22Reply
Hallo Ihr beiden Weltreisenden! Bis hierher toll! Wir haben die Fotos genossen und freuen uns mit Euch. Weiterhin tolle Eindrücke. Was macht Montezuma? (war wohl Azteke und nicht Inka). Liebe Grüße Mama und Papa [Hartmut und Ute]
8/20/22Reply
TravelerCusco war schon voll, aber ja, wir versuchen schon, nur die besten Bilder zu nehmen. Montezuma haben wir in Peru noch nicht entdeckt, bislang war das Essen sehr gut!
8/22/22Reply
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Day 8
Thursday, August 18, 2022
⛅ 15 °C
Altitude: 4,077 m
Peru Quebrada Chuñuma -14.122002, -71.25575414°7’19” S 71°15’21” W
Rainbow mountains Palcoyo
August 18, 2022 in Peru ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C
The rainbow mountains are rock formations a few hours from Cusco, formed by iron and other minerals. Unfortunately, they're located at 5000m altitude. Only explored touristically in the last five years, they're one of the top sights in cusco now. There are in fact two, Vinicunca, the better explored and crowded one and Palcoyo, which apparently is blissfully empty in comparison. We went to Palcoyo and despite the long drive, were very happy we did so.Read more
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Day 9
Friday, August 19, 2022
⛅ 17 °C
Altitude: 3,400 m
Peru Plaza de Armas Cusco -13.520064, -71.97844413°31’12” S 71°58’42” W
Cusco
August 19, 2022 in Peru ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C
After all the long days of hard core sightseeing, we chose to skip yet more Inka ruins in Pisac and just relaxed in Cusco on our last day in the area. We did check out the cathedral (think terrible catholic kitsch) and Qorikancha (a catholic convent built on the most important Inka temple still partially visible/integrated into the convent); but mostly we went from cafe to restaurant to cafe and I had guinea pig for the third time (baked this time). I must admit I have not become a fan.Read more
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Day 10
Saturday, August 20, 2022
☀️ 21 °C
Altitude: 2,323 m
Peru Arequipa -16.40824, -71.53787916°24’30” S 71°32’16” W
Arequipa
August 20, 2022 in Peru ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C
After our first night bus (on which we unfortunately didn't sleep too much), we arrived in Arequipa. Peru's second biggest city is also called the white city due to many buildings built with white volcanic rock. We met our guide Johselm who will take us to Colca Canyon the next days and went to a local market. Afterwards we explored the historic city center, most notably the convent of Santa Catalina, a "city within the city", where nun lived secluded for 400 years and still live to this day.Read more
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Day 11
Sunday, August 21, 2022
☀️ 15 °C
Altitude: 2,350 m
Peru Río Huaro Rumi -15.587757, -71.9985715°35’16” S 71°59’55” W
1
Colca Canyon
August 21, 2022 in Peru ⋅ ☀️ 15 °C
Next up is a two day one night hike in the Colca Canyon, which is twice as deep as the Grand Canyon and the major tourist draw card in Arequipa.
We had to get up at 12:15am (yes, basically midnight) to drive 7 hours to the start of the trek - driving times are crazy in Peru. We chose a guide who led us to a side arm of the canyon, so we were the only tourists all day. The scenery was quite spectacular. The hotel for the night had natural hot pools, where we relaxed for the rest of the afternoon.
The next morning we went out of the canyon again to spot condors (success!), enjoy the views of the terraces, try "Colca Sour" (Pisco sour made with local prickly pears) and drive over the Colca pass (4900m) again back to Arequipa to catch our flight to Lima.Read more
Spektakuläre Fotos von einer spektakulären Landschaft! Wie habt Ihr die 5000 m überstanden? Mama und Papa [Hartmut und Ute]
8/23/22Reply
Traveler Sehr schönes Bild mit euch beiden auf der Straße. sieht alles sehr trocken aus ohjemine.
8/23/22Reply
Die 5000m+ (5011 um genau zu sein) hatten wir nur bei den Rainbow Mountains... Das war hart, aber insgesamt haben wir (und besonders ich) es kotz frei überstanden. Im colca canyon sind wir ja nur kurz über den Pass gefahren, das war OK. Angeblich soll es da in den Regenmonaten wohl total grün sein. [Esther]
8/23/22Reply
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Day 13
Tuesday, August 23, 2022
⛅ 18 °C
Altitude: 140 m
Peru Jesus Maria -12.060566, -77.03782312°3’38” S 77°2’16” W
1
Lima stopover
August 23, 2022 in Peru ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C
As you can't travel directly from the south to the north, we had one day in Lima before catching the night bus to the Carrillera Blanca mountain range.
We stayed late in our hostel and then did a foodie tour. As a bonus, when walking by the presidential palace, we did see the actual Peruvian president, who was taking part in a military funeral ceremony.Read more
Ich seh schon.. der Fokus eurer Reise liegt ja schon irgendwie beim Essen 😊 Sieht alles super aus!! [Charlotte]
8/26/22Reply
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Day 14
Wednesday, August 24, 2022
☀️ 19 °C
Altitude: 2,324 m
Peru Río Llullan -9.033128, -77.8147229°1’59” S 77°48’53” W
Caraz
August 24, 2022 in Peru ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C
In order to explore the Cordillera Blanca mountain range, we didn't choose the more obvious hub Huaraz, but based ourselves in Caraz nearby. The village is nice, and there was a 4500-year-old ruin just 500m down the street, which has almost not been excavated yet and people literally live on top of the ruins - but I guess there are so many ruins in Peru, you can't shape up all of them at the same time.
The highlight was our hotel though, IntiRumi Inn, with a gorgeous garden and delicious food, where we spent most of the day.Read more
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Day 15
Thursday, August 25, 2022
☀️ 10 °C
Altitude: 4,613 m
Peru Laguna Sesentinueve -9.010244, -77.612039°0’37” S 77°36’43” W
Laguna 69
August 25, 2022 in Peru ⋅ ☀️ 10 °C
After a relaxing day, we once again got up at 5am to drive into the mountains themselves to hike to the famed Laguna 69, a mesmerizingly blue lake surrounded by snow-covered peaks.
Unfortunately I had some stomach problems and we were both not as acclimatized as we had hoped, so walking 15km back and forth from 3800m-4600m was...we have done more enjoyable things.
The Laguna (and the scenery on the hike) were all worth it though.Read more
TravelerKann man da baden in dem See?
8/26/22Reply
TravelerGrandios!!!
8/26/22Reply
TravelerDu könntest da schon baden, Inge. Aber normale Menschen nicht;)
8/26/22Reply
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Day 16
Friday, August 26, 2022
☀️ 9 °C
Altitude: 4,241 m
Peru Caraz -8.998333, -77.6843278°59’54” S 77°41’4” W
1
Laguna Parón
August 26, 2022 in Peru ⋅ ☀️ 9 °C
After yesterday's near-death experience, we were sold when we learned there is another Laguna nearby with a road right up the shore.
Laguna Parón is the biggest of the Lagunas in the area and surrounded by a number of majestic peaks, one of which was the model for the logo if Paramount Pictures.
We only hiked up a little to the viewpoint and then kayaked on the lake for a change.
Overall another otherworldly view, definitely one of the highlights in all of Peru. We could easily stay in the area for another few days and explore more, but it is off to the coast to Trujillo tonight.Read more
Traveler So lange reicht nicht mal Jans Arm für ein Selfi. Seid ihr da mit einer Gruppe oder einem Guide unterwegs?
8/28/22Reply
TravelerNe, da waren wir ganz alleine. Aber als wir gerade wieder runter wollten, kamen andere hoch und haben das Bild gemacht
8/28/22Reply
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Day 17
Saturday, August 27, 2022
⛅ 17 °C
Altitude: 5 m
Peru Trujillo International Airport -8.073711, -79.118798°4’25” S 79°7’8” W
2
Huanchaco
August 27, 2022 in Peru ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C
To get from the Cordillera mountains to the rainforest in Chachapoyas, you need a stopover at the coast in Trujillo. Instead of the big city, we stayed in the fisherman/surfer village of Huanchaco (you guessed correctly: More Ceviche restaurants for Esther...). Huanchaco has a relaxed vibe and a beautiful seaside promenade.
We still went out to visit both Trujillo city center with its beautiful main square and pedestrian street, as well as one of the many ruins in the area. A number of Pre-Inka civilizations left their mark, such as the Chimú, Sipán and Moche. The temple of the moon and sol (Moche) is made of adobe (the material, not the Software company), but has beautifully colored murals. Even cooler is the fact that excavations are still ongoing. On the very informative tour, we saw equipment in place as well as sections that were only uncovered a few weeks before.Read more
Sind das Boote? [Hannah] [Hannah]
9/1/22Reply
Genau.... Glauben aber nicht, dass man die so als Laie besonders einfach steuern kann :-/ [Esther]
9/4/22Reply
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Day 18
Sunday, August 28, 2022
⛅ 18 °C
Altitude: 15 m
Peru Chan Chan -8.108837, -79.0750198°6’32” S 79°4’30” W
Chan Chan
August 28, 2022 in Peru ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C
With only a half day to spare before a grueling 16h night bus, we explored the ruins of Chan Chan in the morning.
Chan Chan is entirely made of adobe again, and apparently used to be the largest city in all of the Americas before Columbus with 60000 inhabitants.
You need a little imagination, as much was washed away by the rain over the centuries (the Spanish abandoned chan chan and built Trujillo nearby) and quite a few sections were rebuilt. Nonetheless, we enjoyed the visit. Almost as much as the final Ceviche we had afterwards, as we will not return to the Peruvian coast.Read more
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Day 19
Monday, August 29, 2022
🌧 15 °C
Altitude: 2,344 m
Peru Chachapoyas -6.228819, -77.8704746°13’44” S 77°52’14” W
5
Chachapoyas
August 29, 2022 in Peru ⋅ 🌧 15 °C
The 16h night bus was less excruciating than expected, as we had once again splurged and got the 160° seats. Nonetheless, our first day in Chachapoyas was set to be more relaxed. Chachapoyas (meaning "cloud forest people") is yet again another town/language/region/Pre-Inka civilization. Officially already part of the Amazon, Chachapoyas is set in green hills, sports a nice centro histórico and is surrounded by numerous sights. The first we explored on arrival was the Sonche Canyon, apparently deeper than the Grand Canyon. A notable highlight for dinner was a cocktail with ants:)Read more
Wow, der Cocktail sieht sehr spannend aus!! Hat der geschmeckt? [Lea]
9/2/22Reply
Travelertatsächlich hat der dank der Gewürze (Nelken, Zimt und so) am ehesten nach Weihnachtsgebäck geschmeckt. nur halt mir Ameisen...
9/2/22Reply
Traveler Und was könnte man sich darunter vorstellen?
9/4/22Reply
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Day 20
Tuesday, August 30, 2022
☁️ 12 °C
Altitude: 2,982 m
Peru Chumbe -6.418466, -77.9229116°25’6” S 77°55’22” W
Kuelap
August 30, 2022 in Peru ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C
Kuelap, also called Machu Picchu of the North, was a Pre-Inka city beautifully located on a mountain top surrounded by lush green hills.
Recently equipped with the first cable car in all of Peru, it is unfortunately closed for tourism until further notice as one of the walls collapsed, so you can only go to the site but cannot enter.
We went anyway, as the scenery was still supposed to be worth the trip. Unfortunately the weather lived up to the "cloud forest" name of the region, i.e. we didn't see a lot. Regardless, we don't regret we went, we could still see how this place is amazing if the weather were nice and you were able to enter the site itselfRead more
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Day 21
Wednesday, August 31, 2022
⛅ 24 °C
Altitude: 1,776 m
Peru Cerro Tacala -6.037012, -77.8915876°2’13” S 77°53’30” W
Gocta
August 31, 2022 in Peru ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C
Not too happy with our hotel in Chachapoyas and heading north anyway, we chose not to explore the second top sight in the area - Gocta waterfalls - in a tour from Chachapoyas, but to base ourselves in Gocta village (Cocachimba).
After checking into our beautiful cabin, we then drove to the next village (San Pablo) to start the famed Gocta circuit.
Labelled as the third highest waterfall in the world at 771m (actually split in two sections of ~250m and ~500m, so not sure if that counts), Gocta is nested in a lush green cliff at the end of a long valley.
The hike started in fields, went through Mediterranean pine forests and got greener and rainforestier the closer we got. When we arrived at the water edge (technically there are two separate points for the upper and the lower falls), the water seemed more like clouds or a reverse candle flame than like a waterfall - almost spiritual. Locals understandably deemed this place haunted which is why it was only explored for tourism 15 years ago.
After 17km/6 hours, we returned to our cabins for a tasty last supper, before we set out for the Ecuador border the next day. Definitely one of the best day hikes we ever did and a strong end to our time in Peru.Read more
TravelerGreat scenery and great pictures! The hiking paths are old Inka roads, aren't they?
9/1/22Reply
TravelerHaha, yes we were wondering as well if these are Inka trails. We saw some stone carvings "Inka waterfall Resort & Spa", so maybe they are really that old;)
9/1/22Reply
Super schöne Wanderung und die cabin sieht auch wunderschön gelegen aus :) [Lea]
9/2/22Reply
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Day 22
Thursday, September 1, 2022
⛅ 29 °C
Altitude: 674 m
Ecuador Pucapamba -4.977017, -79.1150454°58’37” S 79°6’54” W
++Ecuador++
September 1, 2022 in Ecuador ⋅ ⛅ 29 °C
Today was all about traveling. Getting up at 4:30 (yuk), we walked 10mins from our cabin to the village main square to take a 30min tuktuk down to the main road. There, we hopped on the pre-arranged 3h shuttle to Jaén, which we explored a bit as we were early and had planned some buffer. The town is not pretty, but it was interesting as they don't see many tourists.
Finally at 1pm, we really boarded our unexpectedly comfortable bus that would take us all the way to Ecuador. The road was ok (but curvy) on the Peruvian side, landscapes went from rice fields (reminded us of East Asia), to lush green hills. Reaching the border at 5pm, we were nervous as this is the least busy border crossing, is not even listed in the website of the German foreign ministry and was sometimes closed in the past. However, the procedures went smooth and relaxed.
Back on the bus, the scenery stayed beautifully green, but would remain unpaved for the next 4 hours (40km). Therefore we only reached our final destination of Vilcabamba around midnight. What a trip.Read more
Travelerwhat a picture of you two. I wouldn't have recognized Esther not knowing that you were sending the message...
9/4/22Reply
Travelermust be really very, very early!
9/4/22Reply
Wow, very beautiful Views on the way! :) [Lea]
9/4/22Reply
TravelerYes, that was 5:20...waiting for the tuktuk driver...who was still asleep when we called him at the arranged time:D
9/4/22Reply
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Day 23
Friday, September 2, 2022
⛅ 26 °C
Altitude: 1,529 m
Ecuador Río Uchima -4.255148, -79.2235494°15’19” S 79°13’25” W
Vilcabamba
September 2, 2022 in Ecuador ⋅ ⛅ 26 °C
After the long trip, we took things a bit slower in Vilcabamba. The town is very popular with American retirees (there apparently was a feature about the longevity of its people in a magazine in the 1950s), and the infrastructure shows. Western cafés and restaurants abound and were actually filled with gringos in the expected age range.
It is understandable though, as the town is beautifully placed amidst green hills. In the morning, we went up the Mandango viewpoint, went for all vegetarian lunch, then relaxed at the pool of our fancier hotel, and then had middle eastern dinner - will be interesting to compare, once we get to the actual Ecuador:)Read more
Travelerlooks very nice at vilcabamba. seems that I was doing something wrong not to stay at this place when retired
9/4/22Reply
Haha Papa, ihr könnt ja noch umdisponieren ;) [Lea]
9/4/22Reply
Haben gestern eurer Oma das Tagebuch gezeigt. Sie ist beeindruckt von den Landschaften. Das Essen von Meerschweinchen ist ihr jedoch sehr fremd. Wir glauben, das ist das erste Mal, dass sie ganz froh über Esthers Fleischverweigerung ist. Sie hofft nur, dass ihr gesund und munter wiederkommt und wünscht eine weiterhin gute, erlebnisreich Reise. [Henle]
9/4/22Reply
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Day 24
Saturday, September 3, 2022
⛅ 16 °C
Altitude: 2,538 m
Ecuador Parque Calderón -2.897286, -79.0045262°53’50” S 79°0’16” W
Cuenca
September 3, 2022 in Ecuador ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C
A four hour drive through juicy green mountains (changing buses in the city Loja, which looked nice but which we unfortunately had to skip), we arrived in the capital of southern Ecuador, Cuenca.
Cuenca actually means "water basin", as many streams from the nearby mountains meet here. First a cañary settlement, then an Inka town, then a Spanish city and now Ecuadorian, Cuenca is proud of its own cuisine, history and even accent.
We took a walking tour in the afternoon, saw some of the many churches and got a first feel of the city.Read more
Nicht das Käsebrett ist das Interessante, sondern das Gläschen Wein - am Morgen! und nachdem ihr ganz offensichtlich am Abend zuvor davon auch schon einiges hattet. LG Mama [Henle]
9/7/22Reply
PS. Falsche Stelle für diesen Kommentar. Galt Cuenca II [Henle]
9/7/22Reply
TravelerDer Wein war nur zum neutralisieren des Geschmacks:)
9/7/22Reply
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Day 25
Sunday, September 4, 2022
⛅ 8 °C
Altitude: 3,905 m
Ecuador Dos Cuevas -2.780821, -79.2270732°46’51” S 79°13’37” W
Cajas
September 4, 2022 in Ecuador ⋅ ⛅ 8 °C
Cajas national park, very close to Cuenca, is located between 3000-4500m altitude and features a highland tundra landscape with hundreds of lagoons.
Despite rainy weather forecast, we set out for a small hike and were rewarded with an eerie landscape and even some unobstructed views when the clouds dispersed for short periods of time. The trip was rounded off with tasty trouts in one of the many trout farms.Read more
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