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Calabria 2024
  • Jcrieff

Calabria 2024

A 11-day adventure by Jcrieff Read more
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  • Trip start
    October 30, 2024
    JcrieffCalabria 2024Traveler
    This is what I look like after 1 hour of travel

    I'm Off!

    October 30, 2024 in the United States ⋅ ☁️ 45 °F

    I am running out of titles for my initial posts for a trip. Anyway, today is the day. I said goodbye to Teetee and took a Lyft to PDX.
    Last night, I saw an article on my Google news feed about, "Why you need to check your boarding pass if you have TSA Precheck." So I checked...and it wasn't on there! I am guessing between switching between TSA and Global Entry, my information was lost. So I had to stop at the Delta counter to get it added.
    Next stop, preflight Bloody Mary at the place next to my gate.
    Boarding went well, and we are off to JFK    Read more

  • JcrieffCalabria 2024Traveler
    Me after 6 1/2 hours of travel...Me after 11 hours

    JFK to FCO

    October 30, 2024 in the United States ⋅ ⛅ 70 °F

    We landed a bit early but had to wait for our gate to be vacated. I watched Avitar during the flight. It was okay, but I don't get why it was such a big deal.

    My flight was delayed by about 25 minutes, which was actually a good thing since my layover was short. I did carry-on only for this trip for that reason. This way, I had time to get water and "take care of business. "

    The flight was fine. I was right in the middle of the plane by the lavs. My seatmate is headed to Israel, as are several people on the flight. He told me that it is one of the best ways to get there from the USA right now, since only El Al flies to Israel. I guess it's much cheaper to fly from Rome.

    Dinner was some sort of chicken with mashed potatoes and green beans. I watched "Burn After Reading" which was good. I enjoy Coen brothers movies. I put on the first Harry Potter movie to try to sleep, but no luck.

    We are 30 minutes from FCO. I just had a "breakfast calzone" and some coffee. It is now 11 1/2 hours of travel.

    La prossima fermata...Roma!    Read more

  • JcrieffCalabria 2024Traveler
    Me after 18 hours of travel and a run to the train

    Leo Express

    October 31, 2024 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 55 °F

    On my way to Rome on the Leonardo Express. I took my time at the airport to freshen up, including a good teeth brushing and some mascara. Then I stopped for a double espresso before heading out. The line at passport control for US citizens was, well, no line. I stopped to buy my ticket at the airport, since there was no line there. It was 7:15 and there was a 7:23 train, so I stopped being leisurely! I made the train with a minute to spare.

    I am overdressed for the weather here. I think it will be in the 70s, and I'm wearing clothes for the 50s in Portland.    Read more

  • JcrieffCalabria 2024Traveler

    Everything in Rome is Under Construction

    October 31, 2024 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 59 °F

    Like the title says, everything is under construction. I went to check my bags at the place I put them last time, but I could only leave them there for 2 hours. So I walked to the other side of the train station and found a location for 4 hours.

    From there, I walked to Trevi Fountain, only to find it closed. Or at least no water, so no coin toss. It wasn't like last time, when there was a catwalk to get a better look. From there I headed towards Campo de Fiori. On the way, I passed the Pantheon. It was open, but the piazza was closed. Moving on, I passed Piazza Navona, and yes, all the fountains are being worked on. Finally, I reached Campo de Fiori which was not closed! It is my favorite place to buy a.pashmina, and now I have a red one!

    From there, I pointed myself to Torre Argentina, where the old temple ruins and cats are. There is also a taxi stand to take me back to the train station. My knee is bothering me, so I will take a cab back.    Read more

  • JcrieffCalabria 2024Traveler
    Me after 22 hours of travel

    Officially traveling for 24 hours...

    October 31, 2024 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 72 °F

    I left my house 24 hours ago, and I'm still traveling. I am on the train from Rome to Aversa, then changing trains for a short trip to Caserta.

    I stopped for an espresso and a cornetto before I left Largo Torre Argentina. It was nice to sit and relax. At the e first place I stopped, I sat there for about 10 minutes and no one took my order. Then I went to another place across the square.

    Next, I caught a taxi to the luggage place. The cab driver was nice and we spoke in Italian. He was telling me how great the famous pizza place was in Caserta, and how hard it is to get a reservation. Of
    course, I don't have one... I picked up my luggage and walked over to the train station. There is now a Starbucks in the train station! I didn't get coffee, but I did get a Rome mug.

    While on the train, I looked to see if I could snag a reservation at the pizza place. They didn't have anything tomorrow, but they had one for 11pm tonight! So my plan is to check in to the hotel, wash my clothes out, nap for 2 to 4 hours, then get pizza. I may end up just sleeping tomorrow!    Read more

  • JcrieffCalabria 2024Traveler

    Caserta

    October 31, 2024 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 72 °F

    I arrived in Caserta around 2:40pm. That was 25 hours of travel. I left the wrong side of the station and had to walk double to find an underpass to get to the other side.

    Then I found the "B&B". I have stayed in places like this before, a few rooms in a residential building. This had no attendant. The lock box absolutely stumped me. Not that it would be hard after no sleep... After I messaged the manager and she was on her way, did I figure it out. Then there was the puzzle of 4 keys to open the gate, open the main door of the building, open the entrance to the B&B, and open my room.

     I didn't even take a picture of my room, I was SO tired. It is small and basic. Double bed, TV, metal wire shelving unit that serves as a closet. The "Breakfast " part of B&B, appears to be packaged pastries and an espresso maker that I won't even begin to try to figure out.

    I immediately stripped down, and everything went into the sink for a wash. I rinsed off and just wore the towel for a while. My main goal was sleeping, so I put on YouTube to a boring video and closed my eyes. No sleeping, but I felt better.    Read more

  • JcrieffCalabria 2024Traveler

    I Masanelli Pizzaria da Francesco Martuc

    October 31, 2024 in Italy ⋅ 🌙 57 °F

    I am currently waiting for my 11pm reservation at "The Best Pizzaria in the World." So are about 50 other people. I gave them my name.and I got, "I'll call you." So it may be awhile...

    I stopped at a cocktail bar. On the way here. I was awake and tired of hanging around the room. It is Halloween, but it is not as over the top as in the States. No trick or treating, just a lot of devils, witches, and plague doctors. Very minimal costumes.

    I was just finishing my drink, when a woman at the next table asked me to join her. At first I thought she was Italian. But it turns out Elena is Russian. We chatted for a bit, but I needed to get to the restaurant. I really wish I had asked for her contact information!

    The restaurant was a 15-minute walk and it is out of the main part of town. I arrived at 10:59pm, and there were about 40 people waiting. I gave them my name and they would call me when my table was ready. After about 10 minutes, I understood the deal. You can make an 11pm reservation, and they squeeze you in after all the earlier ones! I was seated at about 11:30pm--almost the last one!

    The restaurant is pretty big and very busy. I ordered a bottle of wine (which I could take whatever I didn't drink with me), a crocquet, an arancino, and an onion pizza. The 2 appetizers were delicious. The croquet was with ham and potatoes. Not sure about the rice ball, but it was yummy! I don't even know where to start on the pizza... I was thinking, it's just pizza, how can it be the best? But it was!!! The crust was yeasty and smoky. There were cooked onions and some sort of onion gelatin. Also mozzarella or burata. I brought a zip lock in case I couldn't finish,
    but I managed! I did bring the wine home.

    I left the restaurant at 1:30am with 56€ less money, a full stomach, and half a bottle of wine. It was a 20-minute walk back to the hotel and I was so tired! It wasn't too bad, but I was in bed very quickly!    Read more

  • JcrieffCalabria 2024Traveler

    A wasted day?

    November 1, 2024 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 73 °F

    I slept until 12:30ish. Then I relaxed in bed for a while... I finally got out of bed at 1ish. It was a warm, sunny day. I sat out on the balcony with my instant coffee, as there was no way I could figure out the espresso machine in the room.

    I decided to try to get my eSim card activated. Little did I know it would take the rest of the day... I contacted Airalo. They are in Singapore and are very nice and very slow. Then I contacted AT&T. They are not as nice and still slow. I don't want to relive my afternoon, but it sucked. So frustrating! AT&T was the big loser, but lesson learned. (Not sure what the lesson was...) After hours of text chats and frustration, I decided to forget it and get out of the room.

    It was already cooling down when I left. I was looking for a phone store to help. Unfortunately, it is All Saints Day here, which is a major holiday, and everything is closed. As I was walking, I spotted a gelateria. That was a sign--a sign that I hadn't had any gelato yet! I ordered my traditional first order, pistachio and hazelnut, then asked if they had wifi. I connected to the internet and tried again to resolve my phone problems. I read something about needing to remove the sim card and remembered that one of the AT&T people told me to do that. Using a safety pin, I got it out. And voilà! I had service!

    By this time, it was starting to cool off--I was dressed for the warm, sunny weather I completely missed. So I walked back to the hotel and changed. It was too early for dinner, and I wasn't really hungry anyway. After the pizza last night, I probably could have skipped eating the rest of the day!

    I went back to the place I was last night, hoping to see Elena, as she told me she was staying close by. She wasn't there, but the place was crowded. It was a Friday and a holiday. Before 8pm, there is a law that drinks can only be served with hot food. So I got a nice little plate of nibbles with every drink. There were croquettes, some sort of potato fritter that tasted like a McDonald's hashbrown, olives, mozzarella, and mini calzone. After 3 drinks, and their accompanying food, I really wasn't hungry. Since my train is at 9ish tomorrow, I decided to call it a night.

    Wasted day? Well, I didn't see much of Caserta, but I did get gelato!    Read more

  • JcrieffCalabria 2024Traveler

    Morning in Caserta

    November 2, 2024 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 54 °F

    I was up at 7am, and packed up by 8am. I am relaxing with my Starbucks Via coffee in the balcony. The coffee is in the Starbucks Rome mug I bought at the train station. Thank goodness I did, since this place didn't have any cups!

    I will need to return here eventually, for no other reason than to see the castle...and the pizza!    Read more

  • JcrieffCalabria 2024Traveler

    9:12 train to Salerno

    November 2, 2024 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 61 °F

    Is that where the cookies come from?
    I left the room at about 8:30, since I was all packed and there was nothing else to do. Again, thank goodness for elevators! My first challenge was getting out of the courtyard. I knew there was a button somewhere, but hadn't figured it out, so I'd been using the key. Luckily, someone was there to push the button. It was by the stairs, about 20 feet away!

    Since I had time, I took a small detour to look at the castle (palace?) It is huge! I'm sorry I didn't get to tour it, maybe next time. It is also across the street from the train station.

    I stopped for a real espresso at the station. Then I made my way to "binario" 5. Again, thank goodness for elevators! It is unusual that they work, or that they have them at all in the stations. My train was already there, but I asked someone to be sure, since it was 8:58 and I didn't want to get on the wrong train!

    We left at 9:15. I have a somewhat tight connection, but it should be okay!    Read more

  • JcrieffCalabria 2024Traveler

    10:33 to Reggio Calabria

    November 2, 2024 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 68 °F

    We arrived on time in Salerno, and I made it to the next platform. There was a train arriving and I got onto my car. But my car had 3 seats across, and this one had 4. I quickly got off and asked a conductor. Yep, wrong train! My train arrived 11 minutes later. While i was waiting, i could see the Amalfi Coast over a fence. So close!

    The 4.5 hour trip went by faster than I anticipated. Partly because I met a couple from California, Mary and Peter, chatted with me for quite a while. They were headed to Taomina after visiting Rome, Milan, and Florence. The views from the train were amazing. There were views of the Mediterranean after we passed the Bay of Naples. I also got a glimpse of Vesuvius.

    We arrived on time, and I was ready for the next leg of my journey!    Read more

  • JcrieffCalabria 2024Traveler

    Reggio Calabria-B&BPellicano Guest House

    November 2, 2024 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 70 °F

    My hotel was a 20-minute walk from the train station. Half of it was up hill...it's not that far, right? I wasn't sure what to expect-- would it be like the last place, just rooms and no staff? Nope. This place is a gem! (And there was an elevator!) It is bright and spacious. The room is wonderful with a tiny balcony. The B&B is on Via Pellicano, which means "Pelican," and all the rooms are named after birds. I am in Pettirosso, which is a European robin.

     The man that greeted me, and I'm sure he's the owner, is very nice. I told him that I was here to practice my Italian. He asked me if I wanted him to speak in Italian, and I said, "yes, if you can spend slowly. " We talked for 2 hours. He did most of the talking and he did NOT speak slowly! I understood about 50% of what he said.

    I got.some recommendations for restaurants and other things to see and do. Finally I went to the room and unpacked a bit and put my feet up! Time for a short nap.    Read more

  • JcrieffCalabria 2024Traveler

    Royal Reef

    November 2, 2024 in Italy ⋅ 🌙 63 °F

    After my nap and a bit of freshening up, I decided to head to the seafood restaurant Lorenzo recommended. The website said it opened at 7pm, so l left here a little after 6:30pm.

    It's Saturday night, and I hit prime passaggiata time. The main drag was packed! I walked too far and missed my turn for the restaurant. Backtracking a bit, I made my way down to the waterfront and found the restaurant.

    There was a guy sitting out front, and he told me the place didn't open until 7:30pm. But I could have a table then. So I walked along the waterfront and found a park with tons of kids and families. I sat on a bench and admired the view of Sicily in the not-so distance.

    At 7:30 "in punto" I was at the restaurant. I got my usual "table for one" special table, right next to the front door and kitchen entrance. C'est la vie! (In Italian, it's, "questo è la vita"...) The waiter was a combination of smarmy and condescending. Especially when I asked for the menu in Italian. But everything else was terrific. I was served a glass of prosecco and a small croquet. I ordered a ton of food since everything looked so good! I started with an octopus salad, then a dish of risotto with shrimp and bergamot. Il secondo was swordfish involtini--swordfish rolled around something delicious, rice? I had a local digestivo, which was great.

    The walk home was nice. Along the waterfront and the main drag, it was teenager time. All out and about. The main fashion for the girls is a mini shirt that ends at one's butt cheeks and black boots...

    Time for bed!    Read more

  • JcrieffCalabria 2024Traveler

    Late start

    November 3, 2024 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 72 °F

    I think the whole "pizza at 11pm" thing two nights ago really messed up my schedule. I got home at 10ish last night but couldn't fall asleep. "The Big Lebowski" was on TV (in English), and I watched that. I don't know what time I finally fell asleep, but it was probably close to 2am.

    I woke up at about 6:30am, and was still tired, so I went back to sleep. I finally roused around 10am and started my morning ablutions. Finally at about 11:30am, I left the B&B. Since it's Sunday, I did not expect much to be open, and the sun was out, so my plan was to walk the riva. Sunday after church is prime Passeggiata time, and the corso was packed again. I walked down to the riva, and just enjoyed the sunshine!
    ,    Read more

  • JcrieffCalabria 2024Traveler

    Gelateria Cesare

    November 3, 2024 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 70 °F

    After strolling the riva for a while, I finally found Gelateria Cesare. It is an institution here, dating back to 1918. It just a little green kiosk on a wedge of a corner. One of their famous things is gelato in a brioche. Talk about decadent! Three scoops of gelato in a sweet bun...

    I chose Amareggio, which was pistachio based, Bronzato, which is a salted caramel, and a cream flavor. Very messy to eat and very filling!    Read more

  • JcrieffCalabria 2024Traveler

    Rest of the day

    November 3, 2024 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 72 °F

    After my gelato, I decided to walk back down to the waterfront. There are a lot of modern sculptures throughout the city. One of them is a large section of a park full of columns made of wire. They were arranged like the ruins of a temple--or many temples.

    Moving on, I saw a stairway to the water and decided to put my feet in the Mediterranean. Or the Strait of Messina, to be more specific. I sat for a bit to dry my feet before I put my sandals back on. As I was walking, I saw a bunch of beach glass and collected some as a souvenir.

    Back on the riva, I saw a waterfront café and thought I'd stop in for a spritz. But there weren't any tables, so I moved on. I came upon the Vittorio Emanuele monument and the small theater in front.

    Heading back home, I walked by the restaurant I had in mind for dinner. They said I did not need a reservation. I passed the main cathedral, which is beautiful on the outside. Being Sunday, there is no going inside! Except for attending a service, I guess.

    By the time I reached the B&B I was hot and sweaty and needed a shower. So I took one. The shower here is nice, but still "Italian-sized." It felt good, but I wanted to sit on my patio. There are other buildings close, so I didn't want to wear the big towel. So I fashioned a mini-dress from with my pashmina and a binder clip.

    I rested for the rest of the afternoon until it was time for dinner... Still so tired!    Read more

  • JcrieffCalabria 2024Traveler

    Dinner at the Mother in Law's

    November 3, 2024 in Italy ⋅ 🌙 64 °F

    The owner suggested this place, and I stopped by during lunch to see if I needed a reservation. It is called "La Cantina della Suocera." (Suocera = MIL)

    On the walk, I passed the Passeggiata again. It is really my favorite part of the traditions here. I also passed the cathedral, all lit up. Wow.

    I got a table outside, as it was still pretty nice out. They had a seafood menu and meat menu. Being near the sea, I had to go for "sea meat!" They brought a bruschetta with tomatoes to start. I did order a fonduta with 'njuda sausage to start. But then I had the spaghetti with muscles and clams. After dinner I asked for a local amaro, and they had 3 choices. She recommended the "Jefferson" which was very good. Then she asked if I wanted to try the other one...no charge. It was more liquorice-y. But also good!

    The walk home was nice. Another night with the street full of teens! Buonanotte!    Read more

  • JcrieffCalabria 2024Traveler

    First colazione

    November 4, 2024 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 64 °F

    I finally got up in time for breakfast! I missed I yesterday's because I slept too late. The breakfast that I paid for with my reservation is about 4 blocks away.

    It was good. I had a pistachio cornetto and a cappuccino. Great start to the day!Read more

  • JcrieffCalabria 2024Traveler

    Bergamot Museum and shopping

    November 4, 2024 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 70 °F

    I found out about the Bergamot Museum from a Facebook group I am on. I also read about the history of bergamot in "The Land Where Lemons Grow." It is a small museum, with a lot of old equipment, posters, and a few dessicated bergamot. There was a tour going on, but it was in French.

    I walked around, read the signs, and left. I am guessing in the summer there is more of a gift shop and tasting room. But all the counters were a mess and not staffed.

    I did visit a touristy Bergamot gift shop on Saturday, so I headed there for some gifts for Karen, Kristen, and my buyer, Rachel. I bought some liqueur, marmalade, and gummy candy.

    Now it's time for lunch!    Read more

  • JcrieffCalabria 2024Traveler

    Castle Arangonese

    November 4, 2024 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 70 °F

    I decided to visit the castle that I kept walking past. It is Castle Aragonese, name from the time when Aragon ruled southern Italy. However, the building itself dates back to the Byzantine era (8th century).

    It was 3€ to enter, but there wasn't much to see except empty rooms and great views of the city and water. I spent about half an hour checking it out.    Read more

  • JcrieffCalabria 2024Traveler

    Pizza again!

    November 4, 2024 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 72 °F

    I rarely eat pizza in Italy, but one of the places the B&B recommended was Fratelli della Bufala. It was close and open, so I headed there. It was in a shady lane, with 2 or 3 restaurants.

    I was trying to decide between a pizza or something like a salad. But then I saw someone's pizza... I got Diavolo, which was spicy and delicious.

    Now I am very full! It's time to go home for my "pausa."    Read more

  • JcrieffCalabria 2024Traveler

    Officina del Gusto

    November 4, 2024 in Italy ⋅ 🌙 63 °F

    This is my last night in Reggio Calabria. And I decided to go to a nice restaurant. The host had recommended this one too, "La Officina del Gusto." I had scouted it out earlier in the day and even found a shortcut using some stairs.

    I arrived a little after 8 pm, and it was empty. I was given a table near the back and was able to pick the table, NOT next to the kitchen door.

    It is an organic, slow food restaurant, and all the food looked delicious. I chose a local pasta dish with anchovies and bread crumbs. For the main meal, I had a veal steak. with arugula and grana cheese. The pasta was okay. It's a "cucina povera" thing and very local. But the anchovies were a bit too strong. However, the steak was amazing! Rare and perfect! I asked for a local amaro for dessert, and it was great, as well. They brought a few cookies with dinner, which was a perfect finish.

    Time for bed, as I have a transition day tomorrow. Check out, head to airport to pick up car, and explore Calabria!    Read more

  • JcrieffCalabria 2024Traveler
    Me, in a tiny elevator.

    Leaving Reggio Calabria

    November 5, 2024 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 66 °F

    First things first--I want to come back. I really like this place. Both the hotel and the town. I didn't get to see the famous bronze statues or eat another gelato!

    I went to the cafe for breakfast and had some sort of chocolate and vanilla creme filled bun that the woman suggested...pushed on me? It was good with my cappuccino.

    After breakfast, I thought I would find an ATM before I left town. I brought about 180€ with me and haven't needed to get more. Most places take credit cards in Reggio Calabria. The closest place was the post office, which has a bank. I took out 220€, and received 4-50€ notes and one 20€. I refer to them as "turds," as I can't use them unless I spend more than 25€. I went inside and tried to change them, but got a big no!

    Back at the hotel, I closed up my suitcase and rested until the taxi arrived at 10:30. The ride took over a half an hour, though mostly crowded streets. The airport is pretty small, and I went inside to find the car rental. It was across the street and no easy to get to.

    Time to get lost in Calabria!    Read more

  • JcrieffCalabria 2024Traveler

    Pentedattilo

    November 5, 2024 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 64 °F

    After I had my normal white knuckle ride out of the city, I headed southeast to Pentedattilo. My car is a brand I have never heard of'--SEAT? The model is an Ibiza. It's fine and was cheap to rent.

    Pentedattilo is a ghost town, but there are plans to renovate it, like the sassi in Matera. I parked down the hill and walked about 300 yards uphill to the town. There are ruins of old houses all sorts of structures all up and down the hill. There was a shop that was open, and a restaurant that was closed. I think I saw a B&B, too. The rest was ruins. I walked and climbed all over for about 45 minutes. The church was not open, but it looked usable. The views of the sea were great, as well.    Read more

  • JcrieffCalabria 2024Traveler

    The long day driving

    November 5, 2024 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 64 °F

    After Pentedattilo, I wanted to drive the south coast, along the Ionian Sea. Google really wanted me to go back through Reggio Calabria! I took the road along the Ionian sea and stopped one time in Bova Marina. It was 1:30 pm, so everything was closed. There was a sign for gelato, but no gelato. Only pastries, pizza, and calzone. I ordered a calzone and sat in the pizza, which was right by the train station. I love how in many places, the staff seem very inconvenienced when you order...

    After my snack, I proceeded for 2 hours along the coast to somewhere near Catanzaro, where I headed north east towards Lamezia Terme. From there, I drove through Cosenza to the agriturismo. Sunset is at about 4;30pm and I saw it over the Tyrrhenian Sea. Luckily, the drive from Catanzaro was all highway! I no longer like driving in the dark but had no choice. I stopped briefly at a rest area and bought a sandwich, as I did not know what to expect when I arrived.

    The last part of the trip was up a very winding road with no lights, I couldn't find the high beams and had no place to stop and look. Finally, I reached the entrance of AZIENDA AGRICOLA MIRACCO ATANASIO FRANCO. There was a man waiting who said, "Julie?" I was late and missed their messages because I was driving. They do not speak any English and my Italian was very tired! The man took my suitcase to my room and asked me when I wanted dinner. I said anytime was fine, and we agreed on 20 minutes or so. They would ring a bell (buzzer) when it was time.

    The room is sparce, like a garret. There are 3 cot-size beds--I chose the one with the nightstand and a good view of the TV. I unpacked my toiletries into the bathroom and relaxed while watching an episode of "La Casa Piccola in Prateria"or Little House on the Prairie. It seems to be one of the only shows that I can get in English.    Read more

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