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  • Day 13

    Thargomindah to Cooper Creek

    July 6, 2023 in Australia ⋅ 🌬 22 °C

    Drove from Lake Bindegolly, refuelling and stocking up at Thargomindah, towards the Cooper Creek crossing west of Jackson Oil Field. The drive took us over the Grey Range and through huge gibber plains - all strikingly green with forbs due to the rains.

    Along the drive we stopped when Martin spotted a Quail-thrush running across the road. We jumped out to investigate and were rewarded with memorable views of a female Chestnut-breasted Quail-thrush and then her (male) partner: both had hunkered down under bushes, with the male calling incessantly to his other half from across the highway. We watched until they were safely reunited!

    We checked out every accessible repeater tower en route for Grey Falcons - but no evidence was found.

    We camped on the bank of the Cooper Creek at the westernmost crossing, having found an accessible spot sheltered from the biting westerly wind and out of view of gas and oil field traffic.

    Though in a different river system, the area felt comfortingly familiar to the Georgina. The riverbed, banks and surrounding floodplain and levees were studded with apparently endless chunks of good quality chert and some silcrete; unsurprisingly, given this and the major status of the drainage system, surface artefacts were visible everywhere we walked, consistent with the entire area having been used continuously, for thousands of years, as an interconnected system of stone tool quarry, trading, resource and meeting sites.

    We tried to walk gently, and the country was kind to us, offering a sheltered night and heightened experiences. We birded in the tall lignum north of the crossing until sundown after arriving, and then again on the southern side the next morning - when we were rewarded with glorious views of Painted Honeyeaters feeding on the fruiting mistletoe and flowering Eremophila bushes. Above us was a regular stream of migratory waterbird traffic in flight-formation: fish-seeking Pelicans and Cormorants (Little black and a few Great) moving north, and filter-feeding Royal spoonbills moving south, following the main channels in search of better conditions up/downstream, following the recent rains.

    List for the area (*including the drive in from Thargomindah):

    Little eagle
    Painted honeyeaters - 4 birds, at least one a bit younger, all with black tips to their bills; feeding on fruiting mistletoe clumps and flowering Eremophila bushes - I had excellent views as the birds repeatedly came back to roost, sing and glean insects near to where we sat
    Brown quail calling
    White-necked herons
    White-faced herons
    Whistling and Black kites
    Brown falcons
    Black-shouldered kites
    Nankeen kestrel
    Wedge-tailed eagle
    Pacific black duck
    Pink-eared duck
    Bourke's parrots
    Red-rumped parrots
    Horsfields bronze-cuckoo (2 birds, including one immature bird)
    Fairy martins
    Tree martins
    White-plumed HE
    Yellow-throated Miners
    Spiny-cheeked HE
    Mistletoebird
    Zebra finches
    Grey shrike-thrush
    White-winged fairy-wren
    Purple-backed fairy-wren
    Australian raven
    Orange chats
    Crimson chats
    Gibberbird
    Willie wagtail
    Magpie-lark
    Australian magpie
    Little black cormorant (flocks heading north)
    Great cormorant -in with the little blacks
    Australian pelican - migrating North in flocks
    Spoonbill (unsure whether Yellow or Royal) - migrating south
    Straw-necked Ibis
    White-browed woodswallows
    Masked woodswallows
    Black-faced woodswallows
    Jacky winters
    *Red-capped robins
    *Chestnut-breastfed Quail-thrush

    But alas... no Grey grasswren, nor Chirruping wedgebill...
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