• Blue Safari

      26. Mai 2016, Indian Ocean ⋅ 🌬 28 °C

      Yesterday we went on a blue safari: a boat trip in the channel on the west side of the island that included lagoons, snorkeling, beach time, and a seafood cookout. We were initially skeptical as the organizers approached us on the beach the day before selling their trip. As is typical in this area, there is no licensed tour company under which they operate nor a company name to read reviews on TripAdvisor. However, there were other people signed up already and they didn't require any payment or deposit in advance, so we figured we would give it a shot. It was also relatively inexpensive compared to the other activities we've been offered on the island, especially considering it was a full day event including food, drinks, and transport.

      Though the tour did not follow through on all of its promises, we are still glad we went. It was an enjoyable day and we felt that we generally got a good value for our money. We made some really cool friends who we ended up spending all evening with (and will be seeing again today) and we got to see the other side of the island. Once we arrived to "port" after driving over a dirt road for some time, we met up with the other participants and walked out to the boat. It was low tide so the boat couldn't get too close, but the water was no more than knee deep for the short trek. The boat, as promised, was a sizeable sail boat with an attached motor. It comfortably fit 20 people. Probably less expected though was the simplicity of the boat; it was made by hand from local mangrove trees, had no respite from the sun, and, though sufficient, moved fairly slowly. We're starting to see that if you want luxury in Zanzibar, you should primarily stick to the fancy resorts. By no means is this a criticism of this interesting place, just information for other travelers reading this post. Pretty much everywhere we've been around the world there have been luxury or at least well-known company options available for tours and activities; here, we have yet to see them. I would not say the operations are illegitimate here, but they are definitely self-organized by enterprising Zanzibari men. That being said, everyone we've met has been trustworthy, and no one has failed to follow through on their basic promises of service.

      Our first stop on the tour was a sandbar island where we relaxed and cooled off in the water. The guides also provided us with freshly cut fruit including bananas, pineapple, and watermelon. There is no fruit so delicious as a fresh, high quality pineapple (at least to Rachel). After some time on the beach, we took a short boat ride to a nearby coral reef. It was excellent and Nick even found a turtle! It was the first time one of our new friends had ever snorkeled, and what a great first time it was. The coral and sealife was very close to the surface, and there was a ton of plant and animal biodiversity throughout the area. It was really a pretty excellent snorkel experience!

      After snorkeling, we headed to another island for lunch. We took a quick detour though when we saw a pod of dolphins swimming nearby. We spent some time following them and some of our comrades tried to swim with them, but as expected the dolphins fled as soon as anyone jumped in the water. We were able to see them pretty closely though and for several minutes. It was awesome!

      Our lunch was pretty delicious if you like seafood. They served freshly caught octopus, prawn, kingfish, and lobster served over rice, fries, and curry sauce. We had originally been promised beers as well but this did not come to fruition for reasons we don't really understand, but that's pretty typical for stuff on the island; we've had plenty of experiences where restaurants run out of certain foods and that's just part of life here. Were there ever going to be beers provided? We're not sure, but it's a small thing to not follow through on in the grand scheme of things. We had plenty of pop and clean water to drink, and more than enough food. Lunch was followed by more delicious fresh fruit and a short walk to a 600 year old baobab tree. Most baobab species are only found in Madagascar, but there is one species that can be found on mainland Africa and nearby islands. This tree was huge and had fallen over some time ago so that new trees were growing up out of its side. Based on Rachel's previous observations of baobab trees, she thinks it is likely older than 600 years because it was truly huge.

      The afternoon was supposed to include a stop in the blue lagoon, possibly with swimming, and some relaxation time on Paradise Island. However, we were told that we were behind schedule due to the dolphins and the extended snorkeling time so we only briefly boated through the blue lagoon and skipped Paradise Island entirely; there were also concerns about the direction of the wind/current, the height of the waves, and the boat being able to manuever through the tight spaces. Were these false promises, or is it another one of those incidents that you just chalk up to being in Zanzibar? Hard to say, but we had had a full day already so it was not terribly disappointing. Plus, the sea was getting kind of rough so more than a couple people on the boat were fine heading back to land.

      All in all it was a fun day and worth the expense. It is also an excellent example of how tours and activities operate out here, consistent with or better than what other guests have told us about their tours here. As a bonus, we got to see some monkeys when driving through Jozani forest, so we saw pretty much everything we wanted to see here except for the spice farms (Zanzibar is a huge exporter of spices). Today we did our laundry by hand and are going to relax on the beach before heading to Arusha early tomorrow morning to prepare for our safari!
      Weiterlesen

    • Zanzibari Diving

      22. Mai 2016 in Tansania ⋅ ⛅ 27 °C

      Jambo! This afternoon we completed two dives in the lagoon off Paje with Buccaneer Diving. The water was very choppy compared to the calm of Tioman Island, but it was worth it nonetheless. We saw some unique and beautiful coral landscapes more diverse than what we've seen before. Rachel especially enjoyed the sea anemones of many different kinds and colors. We went on the search for seahorses in a sandy plain with some intermittent seaweed, and we saw three of them; that was so cool to see them in their natural habitat. Another highlight was seeing a sizeable octopus hiding in a hole in the coral; it was changing colors between dark and light, presumably in an attempt at camouflage. Nick also spotted a ray that quickly fled when it realized we were getting nearer. Also interesting were lionfish and some very small and very colorful lobster type animals. After the dives, we joined the Germans from our dive trip for beers and dinner, and we had an enjoyable evening exchanging travel stories and cultural perspectives.

      We are currently scheduled to dive again on Tuesday, but if the water remains this choppy the guide said they would be doing the same two dives. If that's the case, we wouldn't want to do these dives again in the same weather so are talking about a day snorkel trip to Mnemba Atoll, where everyone tells us you can see amazing things from the surface. Tomorrow, though, is the last mostly sunny day on the island so we're going to enjoy the sunshine on the beach!
      Weiterlesen

    • Paradise (again)

      19. Mai 2016 in Tansania ⋅ 🌬 30 °C

      It's starting to feel like we're bragging about all these beautiful beaches we're getting to go to. But, here we are again, on a nearly deserted beach. This time on Zanzibar. We arrived late last night and discovered that low season is basically empty. There have been other tourists around, but they are few and far between. We found one restaurant open for dinner last night and there was only one other family there. Rachel tried the ugali with curry, a traditional Tanzanian dish eaten by hand. Nick had the chicken masala, of course. Here's a picture of today's paradise, Nick the cat whisperer, and the plane we took here. Hope you all are enjoying the warm weather as well!Weiterlesen

    • Our last day in Cape Town

      17. Mai 2016 in Südafrika ⋅ 🌧 24 °C

      Sadly, our time here has come to an end. Cape Town is an amazing place, and Nick is falling in love with it in much the same way Rachel did eight-plus years earlier. The combination of the ocean, beaches, local scenery, people, amazing variety of things to do, history, and culture all add up to a place I'd imagine is as unique as any on earth.

      Monday was spent apart - Nick went cage diving with great white sharks, a bucket list item that was amazing and exhilarating despite the frigid Antarctic Ocean waters in which we were diving. Sadly, no pictures from this day, but plenty of sharks and plenty of memories. Rachel spent the afternoon and evening catching up with old friends before we leave, luncheoning and then sharing dinner with two different pairs of former UCT friends! It's been really enjoyable having so many wonderful people surrounding us here - it's the first place we've been in several months that felt a little bit like home :)

      Before we dropped our rental car back at the airport, we spent the day hiking, picnicking, and, yes, drinking atop Table Mountain, the giant, almost entirely flat mountain-plateau which rises above Cape Town and gives the city its shape. Not wanting to miss the view from the top (it's largely been cloudy while we've been here), we decided to skip the hike and ride the cable car to the top. With standing room for 65 and a rotating floor ensuring a 360-degree view, it's a pretty cool experience. The view from the top is truly spectacular, combining mountain and city and ocean better than anything I can remember. Check out the pics!
      Weiterlesen

    • Found* Penguins!

      15. Mai 2016 in Südafrika ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

      Hi everyone! Hope you're having a great weekend. I'm sure our regular readers will have noticed the delayed updates lately, but that's because we've been keeping busy having an excellent time in Cape Town! The city itself is beautiful, the cityside ocean and cliffs recalling San Francisco or Malibu. Everyone has been extremely friendly, we haven't had any concerns about safety, and in general the experience in the city has been amazing. Nick can see why Rachel loved it here :)

      Now, about today's title.... this afternoon we went to Boulders Beach in Simon's Town, otherwise known as a major breeding colony for African penguins! Nick had never seen such a large number up close (or in the wild), and it was such fun to watch them swim, fish, and generally waddle along cutely. Some pictures below!

      To round out our Sunday, we spent the morning hiking on the Cape of Good Hope, snapping some pictures at the historic lighthouse on Cape Point, and eating a fine lunch of fish and chips. Cheers!
      Weiterlesen

    • Saturday Night Braai

      14. Mai 2016 in Südafrika ⋅ 🌙 13 °C

      Tonight we were very honored to be guests at a braai (cookout) at the home of Rachel's host family in Ocean View township. Quick South African history lesson: formal townships are areas where the apartheid government forcibly re-homed people of color who were previously living in neighborhoods desirable to the white political party in power. These families were generally forced to move against their will, and imprisoned if they were unwilling to concede their generational home. Most of the original buildings were demolished at the time of removal. Rachel's host family lives in the house originally provided to their paternal grandfather as part of the forced removals. Rachel's host dad, Henry, had to obtain legal help to ensure that the home stayed in the family upon his father's death instead of returning to the government. This is another example of the continued and massive disenfranchisement of non-whites in apartheid-era South Africa: the government created a loophole to re-remove families from the homes they had already been forced into, thus leaving them without any landed property when they had once owned their own homes. Lastly, there are also informal townships, sometimes known as "Shantytowns," that have sprung up within and around formal townships. These usually consist of shacks constructed from wood and tin originally found in waste disposal areas. As we learned in our township tour yesterday, some townships now have a source of running water, port-a-potties or a designated toilet area, electricity, and an increasing number of new government housing for citizens to live in.

      With that explanation for context, here's a little about Rachel's host family from her time studying abroad. The parents are Natasha and Henry; Henry works at a school in town as a building manager of sorts, and Natasha keeps house and babysits a neighbor girl in the afternoon. They have three kids: Kyle (recently married), Chante, and Cheslyn. Unfortunately, we weren't able to catch up with Kyle as he moved to another town for work, but we were happy to hear he's married a very nice girl and was recently sponsored by his company to complete additional education courses for advancing his welder's license. Chante, who was 12 when Rachel first arrived in 2007, completed high school as well as three semesters of university in tourism before getting a job at the nearby national park. She works long hours and most weekends, but it sounds like this is a good job for a young woman from the townships to have. Cheslyn, the youngest son, is in the equivalent of his senior year in high school (called "matric year" in South Africa). While Cheslyn isn't yet sure what he wants to do with his life, it was clear from our time with him that he has a bright future; he's a very mature and kind young man.

      Also in attendance at the braai were many of the family's friends from church as well as some neighbors, most of whom Rachel had met as a student. It was really great to see how well everyone was doing and how the kids have grown up. Life in the township is hard for many people, this family included. Money is tight and making ends meet for basic needs can be hard, especially when work is inconsistent and low-paying. However, we have found that the families from this community as well as all of Rachel's old friends in South Africa have been incredibly kind and generous to us as visitors. This was true when Rachel was here in 2007 as well, and is surely part of what makes Cape Town so wonderful in our minds.

      There were about 20 people at the braai, and we shared chicken, sausage, (Nick's famous) mashed potatoes, and a homemade double-decker cake to honor our visit to Ocean View. The men mostly played dominoes (very popular among this group) and the women chatted in the living room. We stayed up late talking to Chante and Cheslyn about their lives and making up for lost time. Cheslyn graciously let us stay the night in his room, a room in the back of the house that Rachel remembers Henry building by hand in 2007. It was so nice to see/meet Rachel's host family and be able to feel at home for a couple days while on the road.
      Weiterlesen

    • A week in Cape Town...

      13. Mai 2016 in Südafrika ⋅ 🌙 13 °C

      Howzit followers! This post is coming to you awfully late, and we apologise, but we have been having such an amazing time we haven't even thought to blog! We arrived to town on Saturday and that evening strolled to Long Street for dinner. Being tired from the night before, we made it an early night in preparation for Sunday's activities. Early Sunday morning we headed back to the airport to get a rental car and then headed to Ocean View township to attend church with Rachel's host family from her study abroad days (more on them in a later post). We hung out for awhile afterwards and had koeksisters, like coconut donut balls, as an after church snack. Rachel's host family had prepared lunch as well and we were treated to mince meat-curry-potato-chapati wraps. They were delicious and Rachel can't wait to make them when she gets home!

      On Monday we had intended to climb Table Mountain but awoke to an overcast sky and the mountain covered by its "table cloth" - a thick layer of cloud that makes it impossible to see from the top. Instead, we did our grocery shopping and then decided to see our first movie in a theater since being in Chile. We saw Neighbors 2, or Bad Neighbors 2 in South Africa. It was funny and we laughed a lot. On Tuesday, we went to Robben Island where Nelson Mandela and many other freedom fighters were held during apartheid. We were given a tour of the prison by a former political prisoner who had actually been held at that site. It was poignant to learn about this part of history and see it all firsthand.

      We've also spent a lot of time seeing old friends! On Tuesday night we meet Rachel's old housemate and tour guide Mike for dinner and got to meet his lovely new wife. Rachel didn't think he would remember her from so long ago, but when we contacted his company, 2Way Travel, to set up some tours, he said he of course remembered her and suggested this dinner double date on the Waterfront. On Wednesday we joined Rachel's friend Heather, her husband James, and their son Hannah for a picnic lunch in Kirstenbosch Gardens, a beautiful green space filled entirely with plants naturally found in South Africa and many plants endemic to South Africa. It was wonderful to see how Heather's family has grown as last time we saw her she had only recently wed.

      Thursday was filled entirely with a delicious wine tour in Stellenbosch through Wineflies. We tasted a wide variety of wines and even got to taste a special brandy and several "bubblies" (champagne, except it wasn't made in Champagne but in South Africa). One of the wineries we visited created a custom wine for Prince Albert and Charlotte of Monaco named "Chalbert." Also, all of the wineries seemed to have very big dogs, which initially frightened Rachel but they were of course all friendly.

      This morning we did a township tour in Langa with a local resident. Rachel will be talking more about townships in a later post, but, in short, this is an important part of South Africa that many tourists ignore. When Rachel studied here, they always said that South Africa was a first world and third world country, which is true. Parts of Cape Town are the most beautiful and wealthy areas you'll ever see. Just outside of downtown, and even in some places near the city bowl, is another world of low- to no-income communities with a political and racial history. Again, this history is discussed more in a later post.

      Tonight we met with Rachel's old friends and classmates Twanji and Jade for dinner at a gastropub on Bree Street. It was delicious and we had such a fun time with the guys! Both of them seem to be doing really well and are working in the television industry. So basically...they're big deals.

      We have pictures for this whole week but are having trouble uploading some of them at the moment, so check back later for more pics from this post as well as the next few that come up.
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    • Howzit!

      7. Mai 2016 in Südafrika ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

      We made it to Cape Town! Check out the view from our airbnb; pretty awesome, hey? Our plans are starting to come together for the week. We will miss Nick's mom and Scott who unfortunately had to cancel their plans to join us here, but we are going to make the most of the week by doing tourist activities and visiting Rachel's friends and former host family.Weiterlesen

    • The Cradle of Humankind

      6. Mai 2016 in Südafrika ⋅ 🌙 22 °C

      Today we rented a car and drove out to Sterkfontein to visit the Cradle of Humankind, an UNESCO World Heritage site that has been home to the discovery of more early hominids (mostly Austrolopithecus Africanus) than any other place in the world. We had a guided tour through some of the caves and saw the area in which "Little Foot" was found as well as the active excavation site where "Mrs Ples" was discovered. Little Foot was a more recent find but is significant in that it is a 98% complete skeleton fossil - one of if not the most complete early hominid fossil. The area in which he was discovered was actually blocked off by an electrified gate to protect the active excavation site from individuals who wished to damage the fossils due to beliefs in opposition to evolution; Little Foot's excavation was only completed in 2013 so there are arguably more fossils to be found in the area. Mrs Ples was a significant find several decades ago in that it was the first adult almost complete skull of Australopithecus Africanus found. Mrs. Ples was actually the second significant find in the area but lended more support to the theory that hominids evolved in Africa which was not an accepted theory at the time. We were also able to visit the museum at Maropeng which had several excellent exhibits about the evolution of humans as well as the impact humans have on their environment. While these are topics with which we are both familiar, we highly recommend the museum to anyone who is in the area; it was excellent.

      We have been immensely enjoying our time in Johannesburg but are eager to head to Cape Town tomorrow! Yesterday we joined Rachel's old friend and classmate Fezile for lunch and tonight we are meeting up with another old friend of Rachel's Chenai for a birthday celebration dinner! (This post was updated later with photos from the day.)
      Weiterlesen

    • On to the next continent...

      2. Mai 2016 in Nepal ⋅ ⛅ 26 °C

      Tomorrow we leave for South Africa! Rachel especially is excited to return to Cape Town where she studied for a semester. We leave Kathmandu in the afternoon and fly through both New Delhi and Abu Dhabi before landing in Johannesburg, South Africa. We'll travel overland to Cape Town within a few days.

      Regarding our trek on the Everest Base Camp Trail...we did not make it all the way. Unfortunately, after several days of trekking, Nick began to experience the symptoms of altitude sickness, which can be life-threatening and even deadly. We followed protocol by not ascending any further for two days to give Nick's body a chance to acclimate. However, his symptoms only worsened so we descended on foot at that point. As this illness can quickly escalate if ignored, we didn't want to take any chances with Nick's health. While it was tough to give up on that dream, we are both confident in the decision to descend. Subsequently, as the trek to Kilimanjaro ascends both higher and at a more rapid pace than what we had planned for Everest, we have decided to cancel that trek as this is not the first time Nick has experienced problems at that altitude. It is a well-documented phenomenon in fact that people have varying limits when it comes to altitude, but everyone has one. Scientists have yet to find a correlation between altitude limits and any measurable body factor. On the upside though, we really challenged ourselves with this trek, saw some beautiful landscapes, and can say that we've seen Everest in person (albeit from far away). We've included a few pictures from our eight days in the Himalayas.
      Weiterlesen

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