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India & Southeast Asia

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  • Clark ConliskIndia & Southeast AsiaResenär
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    Haridwar

    6 augusti 2015, Indien ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

    Many Hindus adorn themselves in orange and make a pilgrimage to the river Ganges and a nearby temple in Haridwar to worship Shiva for the first 13 days of August. The accessible areas of the river are lined with visitors from dawn until dusk and add a lively dimension to the village.Läs mer

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  • Clark ConliskIndia & Southeast AsiaResenär

    Rishikesh

    9 augusti 2015, Indien ⋅ ⛅ 11 °C

    I arrived two days ago in the yoga capital of the world which, interestingly enough, was the city that served as The Beatles' spiritual muse for songs released on the White Album and Abbey Road. Since moving into my guesthouse (expensive at $4.80/day), I have thrown myself heels over head into Hatha and Ashtonga yoga courses and have learned a lot about myself: (1) I have the flexibility of a brittle oak branch, (2) my hamstrings are as tight as guitar strings, (3) I have the balance of a teetering toddler. That said, it is easy to see how people stay in Rishikesh for months. Full month and six week yoga instructor training courses are the norm for the many enthusiasts in the town, which sets a relaxed yet committed ambience - for me, it seems a great interesection of whimsical travel culture and dedicated, insightful professionals.Läs mer

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  • Clark ConliskIndia & Southeast AsiaResenär

    Local Bus from Rishikesh to Manali

    13 augusti 2015, Indien ⋅ 🌙 19 °C

    For the most part, my 16 hour overnight local bus from Rishikesh/Haridwar to Manali managed to run smoothly, a very relative term given the virtual absence of infrastructure maintenance in some areas. The bus could have been described as an oversized lunchbox with worn down metal seats dressed in foam, which I can only assume was made during the silent movie era. An occasionally functioning window and no shortage of sprawling Indian men added to the rote environment. With 20 kilometers to go, the driver successfully scraped the side of another bus which was parked on the side of the mountain road.

    One second I was being a stereotypical tourist and taking pictures of the Himalayas through the open bus window, the next I am blankly staring into the face of a livid bus driver, mid-flurry of Hindi swearwords, whose side view mirror was poking into my seat space through the same window. Despite his verbal onslaught directed at my driver but received by me, the mishap offered a good opportunity to get out, stretch the legs, and absorb the scenery. I do not think I have ever seen an expanse of mountain as photogenic as the Himalayas. More pictures to come as my journey continues northward toward Jammu & Kashmir.    Läs mer

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  • Clark ConliskIndia & Southeast AsiaResenär

    Manali (August)

    13 augusti 2015, Indien ⋅ ☀️ 14 °C

    A planned one-day stop off in Manali has turned into a three day stay as I wait for the Manali-Leh road to be cleared of landslides, an increasingly common occurrence in late August and September. As evidenced by some of these photos, there are worse places in the world to be stuck. The natural beauty and the tranquility rooted in the town's large Tibetan population make it an ideal resting point. That said, if all goes as hoped, I will grab a bus Saturday around midnight and be in Leh by Sunday evening.Läs mer

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  • Clark ConliskIndia & Southeast AsiaResenär

    Shanti Stupa, Leh

    18 augusti 2015, Indien ⋅ ⛅ 35 °C

    Today, my group of Markha Valley co-trekkers and I did a prep climb to a hilltop monastery overlooking Leh to test our readiness for tomorrow's seven day Markha Valley journey. Adjusting to the altitude is a long-winded affair given that Leh is situated around 12,000 feet above sea level (over twice as high as Denver). It's easier to let the pictures speak to the beauty of the monastery's desert and snow-capped mountain views.Läs mer

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  • Clark ConliskIndia & Southeast AsiaResenär

    Yurutse -Markha Valley Day 1 End

    19 augusti 2015, Indien ⋅ ⛅ 28 °C

    (4150m) Day one of the Markha Valley trek was a 11.5 kilometer half day starting in Zhingchan. The first of our nightly stops for food and lodging was in Yurutsepa, a one-building "village" homestay at 4150 meters. The first day of hiking was taxing but not yet daunting. It quickly became obvious that acclimating to the altitude in Leh for two days was a necessary practice, as even advanced climbers' progress has been affected by the thin air. Perfectly clear mountains streams from the snow-capped peaks run along the trails and carve their way through the arid, rocky valleys. Tomorrow we will trek to the base camp of the first large mountain pass and assess whether to climb and attemp to arrive at Skyu, on the other side of the pass.Läs mer

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  • Clark ConliskIndia & Southeast AsiaResenär

    Kanda La Pass - Markha Valley Day 2

    20 augusti 2015, Indien ⋅ 🌫 23 °C

    (Kanda La Pass, 4973m) When we rose from our tightly wrapped, sleepy stupor we were not fully aware that our looming climb to Kanda La pass would be 800 meters in a matter of hours. Our slow albeit steady progress was only impeded by our malfunctional lungs and a herd of yaks, scoffing their way through our path to the pass. The wind steadily increased as our anticipation grew and, once we reached the pass, we rewarded ourselves with shared exhaustion and Snickers. Mostly Snickers. The views of Stok Kangri (6153m) were clear and the weather cooperated with our cameras' limited capacities to encapsulate the many viewpoints. Polina asserted that the day was "death", I prefer to call it purgatory given the lack of air and sufficient physical fitness consistently wearing at our physical and emotional stamina.Läs mer

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  • Clark ConliskIndia & Southeast AsiaResenär

    First Half Day 3 - Markha Valley Day 3

    21 augusti 2015, Indien ⋅ ⛅ 29 °C

    After failing to reach Skyu during yesterday's daylight, the team and I hoped to make up for lost time and reach a homestay in Markha village by nightfall, Day 3. By lunch (2:30 pm) in an abandoned village/camp, we had travelled 20 of the 30 km required to reach our mark. A few uphill battles, a river ford, and a slight climb lay between us and a meal and mattress.Läs mer

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  • Clark ConliskIndia & Southeast AsiaResenär

    Sara - Markha Valley Day 3 End

    21 augusti 2015, Indien ⋅ ⛅ 29 °C

    (Sara, 3607m) Our optimistic outlook on the second half of day three slowly and poignantly receded before the pessimism that comes with "maybe being lost". We planned to make the four river crossings (three more than originally anticipated) and traverse the rolling trails to Markha village, but the Markha River's aggressive current led us to turn back and walk the 5 km to Sara village for a meal and, on a stroke of good luck, a beer. After arriving with soaking shoes and drenched socks, our low spirits were revitalized by the company at Sara: a German couple (far right), two Israeli men who we met previously at Yurutse (middle right), a British couple (left middle, in corner), and, of course, my own Israeli comrades and co-strugglers, Polina, Vitale, and Yulia (left to right, respectively).Läs mer

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  • Clark ConliskIndia & Southeast AsiaResenär

    Markha Village - Markha Valley Day 4 End

    22 augusti 2015, Indien ⋅ ⛅ 29 °C

    After our botched attempt in Day 3 to reach Markha (3755m) we were lucky to have a local guide walk us to the correct river crossing point from Sara this morning. An expected long day of progress was soon replaced by a 10 km day full of rain and river crossings. Each of the 10 km was hard earned and, given our blisters, we elected to wrap it up at Markha Village by 3:00 pm. We could not have made it all the way to Markha on Day 2, so our debacles yesterday were probably for the best; and, although we did not make it as far as hoped for a second straight day, the scenery didn't succumb to the poor weather, which threw wind, hail, and rain into our paths for a better part of the afternoon. We arrived amidst gusts riddled with rain and were, after a bit of confusion, warmly welcomed by a lady who invited us into her homestay for tea and a place to sleep. The bumps, bruises, shin-splints, and blisters of the first three days will have to take a backseat to traversing the Markha Valley over the next two days and ascending Kongmoru La pass on Tuesday.Läs mer

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  • Clark ConliskIndia & Southeast AsiaResenär

    Tache Gompa - Markha Valley Day 5

    23 augusti 2015, Indien ⋅ 🌫 23 °C

    The sheer rock walls here are periodically lined with villages and monasteries. This 600 year old monastery is perched high enough to look out on a good portion of our morning trek. More compelling, though, was the history of these remote Buddhist outposts. Tache Gompa is the most famous of the monasteries in the Markha Valley and it lived up to its reputation. However, while much meditation and study occurs within such monasteries, caves in the rock walls were frequented by monks seeking extended isolation and personal spiritual retreats. The sight of these small rock inlets and the monasteries themselves leaves an impression of the Ladakhi people that is undeniably warm and gentle. The region's Tibetan Buddhist history further adds to its allure and augments its already warm and hospitable culture.Läs mer

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  • Clark ConliskIndia & Southeast AsiaResenär

    Hangkar - Markha Valley Day 5 End

    23 augusti 2015, Indien ⋅ ⛅ 29 °C

    We finished our day early in lower Hangkar (4000m) to celebrate Yulia's birthday. Eight beers at $2.40 a piece were half-covered by our new French friend, Siril, who felt obligated to thank us for our team nurse, Polina, doctoring his foot-sized blisters.

    The journey through the Himalayas thus far has been an exercise in pain tolerance, breath control, camera battery conservation, and trying not to think about hygiene. The river crossings through icy waters and hours spent traversing unforgiving fields of rocks are broken up by hikes through treacherous mountain-side trails and steep inclines. Add altitude to the equation and it is easy to understand why it feels like breathing is done through a Capri Sun straw. While progress has been slow, it has also been consistent -- we generally cover between 13-18 kilometers per day and, when necessary, can gain a kilometer of altitude in 6-7 hours (a feat that would have been impossible on Day 2).    Läs mer

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  • Clark ConliskIndia & Southeast AsiaResenär

    That one lunch - Markha Valley Day 6

    24 augusti 2015, Indien ⋅ ⛅ 29 °C

    Our 800 meter climb from Hankar to Nimaling (4800m) was segmented by lunch at pond at 4600m. The views of the surrounding peaks, including Kangyatze (6400m), were breathtaking (altitude pun fully intended) and added some necessary flavor to the bread & potato pack-lunch that we received in Hankar. On some mission to prove to his crazy Russian grandfather that he is tough, former IDF officer Vitaly took a swim in the mountain-top pond. Our g-rated lunch suddenly became pg-13 and the cows dispersed. Ladakhi cows must not be accustomed to male nudity.Läs mer

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  • Clark ConliskIndia & Southeast AsiaResenär

    Nyimaling - Markha Valley Day 6 End

    24 augusti 2015, Indien ⋅ 🌫 23 °C

    We finished Day 6 after a grueling afternoon ascent from 4000 meters to our highest evening camp at 4848m in preparation for tomorrow's conquering of Kongmaru La Pass. Our arrival in Nyimaling included room and board (two small tents with four blankets each) and a standard homestay meal (rice and lentils). The camp is run by the families of shepherds, who use the elevated field as a summer camp for herding mules, goats, and cows.

    By this point in the trek, those striving for similar daily distances stop at the same evening camps. Reconvening with new friends every night has made the discomfort of the Himalaya's near-freezing nighttime temperatures at least psychologically more bearable.    Läs mer

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  • Clark ConliskIndia & Southeast AsiaResenär

    Kongmaru La Pass-Markha Valley Day 7

    25 augusti 2015, Indien ⋅ 🌫 23 °C

    In a taxing two hours of climbing 400 meters in altitude, we finally arrived at the highest point of our trek, Kongmaru La (5200m). With my pack and a bit of water, I can at least say that I have eclipsed the 5000 meter mark and am one step closer to joining the more elite 6000 meter club. The thinness of the air coupled with the views of the region's jagged peaks were dizzying and necessitated the only suitable reward for such an occasion: Snickers and a mango juice.Läs mer

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  • Clark ConliskIndia & Southeast AsiaResenär

    The Team - Markha Valley Day 7 End

    25 augusti 2015, Indien ⋅ ⛅ 26 °C

    Eight days ago I ran into a group of Russian-Israeli's planning a seven day trek over ancient trade routes of Ladakh, used to connect Kashmir to Tibet and India to China. I figured that if I was to endeavor on a roughly 103 kilometer, week-long journey, it would be in my best interests to do so with a band of travellers as naturally impervious to the cold as Russian-born IDF soldiers. What resulted was a team fit for success in any version of The Oregon Trail.

    The Team
    Polina (far left, photo 2/right photo 4): As a nurse, Polina may as well have sewn a red cross onto her bag and set up a formal medical tent at each of our stops. Unfortunately for her, her good graces resulted in a constant inflow of feet requiring bandages, including my own after Day 2's trek up and over Kanda La Pass. It also doesn't hurt that Polina is an ex-IDF intelligence officer with a proclivity for slyly extracting the details of one's life over tea (tea that she will brew just for you with her camping stove and Tupperware containers full of delicious, homegrown herbs cultivated for this very purpose).
    Yulia (middle, photo 2/photo 3): The holder of the guidebook and principal navigator of the valley, Yulia became the resource through which we predicted our daily progress. Without her, we would have spent twice the amount of time lost and, more likely than not, spent a few nights on the rocky Himalayan ground. An electrical engineer by trade, Yulia at our side meant we were prepared to handle any semiconductors that happened across our path. None did.
    Vitaly (far right, photo 2/left photo 4): Our pace-setter and designated source of smart-remarks and sarcasm, Vitaly's presence was resounding in its pertinence. His tall and skinny frame belied his near-mechanical ability to defeat any and all foes, given his history as an IDF-officer in combat engineering (explosives). Add to the situation that he is the boyfriend of Yulia-the-electrical-engineer and suddenly he becomes a half of the dorky math tandem that you never hope to annoy.

    Our week in the wilderness adhered to the ancient Ladakhi trading routes beaten into permanence by mules and horses carrying goods to through the region's valleys, inaccessible by car and bike. Our route (detailed in photo 6) was not generally not difficult to navigate without a guide, with a few exceptions -- see "Sara - Markha Valley Day 3 End". Crisp and clean mountain streams and rivers sourced by the nearby snow-covered peaks cut through the terrain and generally served as a strong indicator of direction. But, the most reliable sign of correctness of path was neither river nor compass-- it was the never-ending trail of mule poop. If you someday choose to roam the Himalayan highlands following poop trails, be sure to choose a band of comrades with experience; fecal navigation is no joke.    Läs mer

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  • Clark ConliskIndia & Southeast AsiaResenär

    Stok Village - Stok Kangri Day 1 Start

    29 augusti 2015, Indien ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

    (3600m) Of course, the first time in weeks that I feel ill is the day that I embark on the beginning of a three (or four) day journey from 3600 meters to the summit of Stok Kangri at 6137 meters. If we succeed, we will be positioned higher than all of Europe and North America with the exception of Denali (formerly known as Mt. McKinley) in Alaska, which reaches to just over 6200 meters. Harim, an Indian citizen from Hyderabad, a Frenchman named David from the Alps, and an experienced local named Santosh are also making the climb. Whether we succeed or fail, there will be a story to tell in 72 hours.Läs mer

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  • Clark ConliskIndia & Southeast AsiaResenär

    Base Camp - Stok Kangri Day 1 End

    29 augusti 2015, Indien ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

    Well. Instead of stopping at a midpoint campsite and calling it a day at 2:00 p.m., we decided to reach base camp in one day. In doing do, we went from an 3500m altitude to 4950m in a matter of seven hours. By 7:00 p.m. the temperature dropped to or below freezing and staying warm, or at least attempting to stay warm, became a matter of wearing every article of clothing on hand. For me, this meant top and bottom thermal liners, compression shorts, 3 pairs of socks, dry fit pants, 2 dry fit shirts, a hiking button-up shirt, gloves, and a wool cap. All this on and I still was cold at 7:15. I'm sure it is going to be an obscenely long, sleepless, freezing night. The silver lining on the whole "you might die of cold thing" is that we were able to ascend 1450m in one day without altitude issues. This success puts wind (very, very cold wind) in my sails for the next 36 hours of re-acclimation to the 5000-5800m range in preparation for the Stok Kangri summit.Läs mer

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  • Clark ConliskIndia & Southeast AsiaResenär

    Acclimatization Day - Stok Kangri Day 2

    30 augusti 2015, Indien ⋅ ⛅ 27 °C

    The altitude made its presence known last night, as even repositioning myself in my all-too-thin sleeping bag was exhausting. At one point my toes got cold enough that removing my handgloves and adding them to the three layers of socks already covering my toes did not seem at all a peculiar tactic.

    Today we did an acclimatization climb to 5315m before our 11:00 p.m. departure for 6-8 hours of predicted climbing tonight/tomorrow. As we wheezed our way up to our target point, the base camp staff pranced around like deer during their daily cricket match. Their fitness level at 5000m evoked considerable jealousy from my co-climbers and I, given that our lungs felt like they were the unfortunate stress balls of Fear Factor contestants. From the apex of the climb we could see Leh, the boheimeth Sasser Peak (7600m), and a portion of Ladakh's many mountain ranges. If successful, tomorrow's climb will over a 360° view of the Ladakh Himalayan region. My excitement is mostly out of fear, for today's prep climb and practice with the cramp-ons was quite difficult.

    We descended to base camp for lunch and some sleep before the fateful hour of our attempt to eclipse 6000 meters and become officially recognized as a bit psychotic.    Läs mer

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