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- Sunday, April 30, 2017 at 7:00 PM
- ☁️ 20 °C
- Altitude: 85 m
PeruPlaya Estrella12°8’2” S 77°1’37” W
We have arrived

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- Day 14
- Sunday, May 14, 2017 at 12:00 PM
- ☁️ 26 °C
- Altitude: 96 m
PeruCoronel FAP Francisco Secada Vignetta International Airport3°47’11” S 73°18’23” W
30/04/2017-14/05/2017 Amazon Hope

30/04/2017-14/05/2017 Amazon Hope
As so many people have been asking us about our trip, and as our internet access has been sporadic, we thought we would start a blog to update everyone on what we have been up to, and hopefully add in a few pictures.
Our first two weeks have been pretty busy, and so I apologise in advance that I will write a lot! Feel free to read as much or as little as you like.
We started our adventure in Lima, where we arrived quite late and flew to Iquitos early the following morning.
Iquitos is a pretty lively town, very hot and humid, but has lots of character. We were there for 24 hours, and got to experience the Belen markets and a couple of museums as well as meet the two medical students (JP and Beth), who were coming with us on the boat.
We travelled by car to Nauta, where we stayed for one night before catching a “speed boat” at 5am to Amazon Hope. The journey to this boat took 6 hours to get to so was by no means speedy!
Amazon Hope 2 is an ex navy tender, which was bought by the Vine Trust, a Christian charity based in Edinburgh, and refurbished to allow it to be used to supply medical and dental aid to rural communities along the Amazon river and it's tributaries. We sailed north along the Tigre tributary as far as a town called Intuto.
The Peruvian government supply an AISPED team, which consisted of 6 people (a doctor, a midwife, a dentist, 2 lab techs and a nurse). The Vine Trust supply everyone else, another doctor, pharmacist, another nurse, several crew members who maintained the upkeep and general running of the boat, the 3 translators and a chef. They also cover the cost for all the food and half of the drugs and medical supplies.
The crew members stay on the boat for 20 days at a time, and volunteers rotate every 10 days. We were the second group. The crew then get 10 days off before starting for 20 days again. They have a six month contract, but the majority of them extend for years as they enjoy it.
The majority of the team members spoke very limited English, but were all lovely and welcoming, and all very hard working. We were very lucky that JP is fluent in Spanish and so were able to communicate via him and the translators.
The boat had three decks and was reasonably large. The cabins were pretty cosy with a small bunk bed in each. The shower was a small hand held shower, with “filtered” Amazon water, which was an interesting shade of brown. We did our clothes washing directly off the back of the boat into Amazon water. It is safe to say we were all far from fragrant by the end of it!
The chef, Wennie, did an incredible job making three meals a day for 26 people in a kitchen that was smaller than our bathroom in Southampton. We got a mix of British meals, such as burgers and casseroles and Peruvian dishes – such as shredded Chicken in a chilli/Cheese sauce over potatoes (Aji de Gallina). Pretty much every meal came with plantain, unfortunately for Tom, who still hasn't got over his aversion to bananas! It's ok though as every meal had double carbs (Rice with every meal) so he was still well fed!
Our day followed the same routine of breakfast at 7:30, followed by some free time to explore the villages we were at with one of the translators, Frank. Frank was great, and had a good sense of humour. He took us into some of the local schools to gatecrash their English lessons, where we taught some English and they taught us some Spanish. In one village, where the elders still speak the language of Quechuan, some children in the kindergarten sang us some songs in Quechuan, and we sang them twinkle twinkle and incy wincy spider... I don't think they were impressed!
Clinics started at 09.00 and typically lasted until 13:00. We would then break for lunch and a siesta in the hammocks on the top deck before resuming clinic at 14:30-16:30. We would sometimes go to different villages in the morning and afternoon, but in larger villages would stay all day. Occasionally the AISPED team would separate from us and take a small boat to villages located down smaller tributaries, that the Amazon Hope was too big to reach.
The clinics were held on the lower deck, where three went on simultaneously. Tom and I would each see patients with one of the medical students, and one of the Peruvian doctors would also see patients down there. There was a pharmacy, which was reasonably well stocked with a wide variety of medicines, however we ran short on the last couple of days which meant we had to improvise slightly. There was one dental chair, and facilities for tooth extractions and fillings only. The dentist was very busy throughout the trip and always was the last to finish.
The cases that we saw were standard GP things... Back pain, headaches, coughs and colds etc. There was a lot of patients with diarrhoea too, unsurprisingly. Everyone who presented with fever needed to be tested for malaria, of which there were a large number of cases.
There were two lab technicians who would take blood samples and analyse them under the microscope and so people got a diagnosis very quickly. Other than testing for malaria, you could only do blood tests for anaemia, HIV and syphilis. You could also do blood sugars and urine samples, but that was it.
Anyone requiring any other investigations or treatment had to go to their nearest health centre. For some villages that could be up to 6 hours away, but other villages had there own health centres, which were run by nurses. Due to the expense of travelling far distances many people would not end up getting follow up despite us recommending them to do so.
We had interpreters present in every consultation, who were all very good. However, was also challenging. The hardest consult I think I had was breaking the news to a 15 year old girl that she was pregnant via an interpreter... She wasn't pleased!
On one afternoon, Frank and Julio, one of the crew members, took us into the jungle a bit deeper to try and spot some wildlife.... We didn't see a lot, but it was a cool experience despite the sweltering heat and all the mosquito's. Poor Beth got so many bites (even through her clothes) that she looked like she had Chicken pox!
On the last night the crew put on a show for us, there was some karaoke (although Dr Ronald, one of the Peruvian doctors wouldn't let anyone else sing and got a bit mic happy), followed by an interesting dance show with lots of sparkly waste coats and pom poms. There was lots of Incacola (a fluorescent yellow drink that tastes like a mix of cream soda and iron bru). Afterwards there was lots of dancing and we got taught some Latin American moves, which was lots of fun. Tom still dances like he's having a seizure though.
We arrived back to Iquitos and, following a well needed shower and pizza, went for a night out at the karaoke (which is very big out here!) with some of the team. It was great fun, Tom and I did Summer Nights from Grease and of course totally smashed it.
All in all it was an incredible experience and we have both said that we would like to do it again. We are currently in Iquitos airport, where we are getting ready for the next part of our adventure. We are going to Lima for a couple of days to explore Peru's capital before heading on to Huacacina for some sand boarding. Despite having a great time, we are both pleased to be moving on, away from the heat, mozzies and living in such an enclosed space with so many people.
We will try and update this throughout our trip.... I promise they won't all be this long! If you managed to read to the end then thank you!Read more
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- Day 15
- Monday, May 15, 2017
- ☁️ 22 °C
- Altitude: 84 m
PeruPlaya Estrella12°8’1” S 77°1’37” W
14/05/17-15/05/2017 Lima

14/05/2017-15/05/2017 Lima
We have spent the last two days exploring Lima. Lima is fairly similar to lots of other capital cities… it is very busy, very noisy and very diverse. Like many other capitals, the driving is something else, road markings, traffic lights and indicators mean nothing, and wing mirrors are merely there to add some extra width to your vehicle. The same cannot be said for car horns though, which are pretty much a constant sound.
We spent our time in Lima wondering round, taking in the sites. We visited the old central district, which included looking around the cathedral and watching the changing of the guard at the presidential palace. During this, the national guard played songs including 'Hey Jude' and the soundtrack from Gladiator, something I think needs to be incorporated into the changing of the guard at Buckingham Palace.
For lunch we ventured into the Barranco district of Lima, which has a much more hippy and laid back feel to it. We decided to be adventurous and try one of Peru's traditional dishes, cerviche. This is raw seafood marinated in leche de tigre (tigers milk) – a citrus based marinade that cures the seafood. Although initially neither of us were entirely convinced we were both pleasantly surprised (and it was better than the other traditional food on the menu “passionate Guinea pig”).
To finish up our day, we did a bar crawl along the beach bars. The beaches in Lima are not picturesque and more of a concrete jungle, but the drinks were good and the weather was sunny.Read more

Hannah BloreLovely blogs, great to read them and hear your tales. Makes me want to travel again! Looking goats to the next blog xx

David and Glynis MankelowThanks again for the blog, it's great to hear what you are doing. Food looks delicious but I think I would prefer steak to raw fish! David
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- Day 17
- Wednesday, May 17, 2017 at 8:00 AM
- 🌫 20 °C
- Altitude: Sea level
PeruPunta Pejerrey13°47’48” S 76°17’18” W
16/05/2017-17/05/2017 Paracas

16/05/2017-17/05/2017 Paracas and The Islas Ballestas: “The Poor Man's Galapagos”
We have been using a company called Peru Hop to get around via bus. The buses are comfortable and clean with English speaking tour guides, and cover the areas that we want to go, which has made travelling very easy (so far!).
We got to Paracas on Tuesday, where we visited Paracas National Reserve. This is an area of desert landscape, which has been reserved to protect the extensive wildlife, in particular birds. The beaches have a red sand which is because of the underwater volcanoes, which are still active. The lava causes the sand to be red. The nature reserve also has lots of archaeological significance, with remains found there dating back to 6500BC. We visited the museum and saw some of the human remains found in the site. Some of the skulls had holes drilled into them due to brain surgery, and also in the museum were the original tools used to perform the surgery... it was quite gruesome.
The following day, we took an early morning boat trip to the Islas Bastellas, otherwise known as “the poor man's Galapagos”. On this trip we saw many more birds, including vast amounts of pelicans, sea lions and one penguin. Unfortunately we didn't see any dolphins. The islands themselves were not particularly attractive, and although we have not been there, not comparable to the Galapagos Islands. The waves were particularly strong and was a little hairy given how close we were to the rocks!Read more

Caroline BloreJust spotted this blog! Glad you're having a good time- it's all very varied xx
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- Day 19
- Friday, May 19, 2017
- 🌬 18 °C
- Altitude: 390 m
PeruLaguna Huacachina14°5’16” S 75°45’51” W
17/05/2017-19/05/2017 Huacachina-Cusco

We got to Huacachina after a short, one hour, bus journey from Paracas and jumped straight onto a dune buggy!
We were given two options from our guide, who spoke limited English, "rapido" or "despacito"... as if he needed to ask!
The dune buggies were a lot of fun and felt like a rollercoaster. We got taken to some dunes, where we got to experience sand boarding for the first time. Imagine sledging head first on a snowboard, with sand going everywhere.... it was a lot of fun!!
It was during sandboarding that Tom got to experience Alex's adrenaline junky nature, when he set up his board to go down a dune, and she walked straight past with her board saying "you can go from there if you want but I am going to go as high as possible". Of course he had to join her and go to the top too.
We walked up a dune ourselves the following day to watch the sunset, this was much easier said than done, but a lovely experience. From here we could see all of Huacacina, a small desert village surrounding a beautiful oasis.
We wanted to get up the following day to do the same for sunrise, but as the alarm went off realised that this was a silly idea, and went back to sleep. Although did manage to make it up again after breakfast, and were followed the whole way up and down the dune by a stray dog, I think he smelt the bacon from breakfast.
Speaking of which, our hostel did incredible food, including proper English bacon. I don't think Tom has ever been so excited for breakfast. The evening meals were equally as good, with lots of fresh veg, which is pretty scarce in Peru!
On our way out of Huacachina we visited the Nazca lines. Which involved climbing a very rickety tower in strong winds.
Despite singing their praises in the previous post, Peru Hop over booked their bus from Huacachina which meant their was no room for us and 6 other people. However they paid for a VIP bus, which not only got us into Cusco 5 hours earlier than planned, but had very comfortable reclining seats. They also paid for dinner and bar tab for the extra 2 hours we had to wait for the bus. Being a group of 8 Brits, we made sure we got our money's worth with desserts all round and international beers. Overall it all worked out massively in our favour!Read more

Caroline BloreHaha, Alex you're mad! Sorry Tom, she doesn't take after either of us! Xxx

Richard BloreI'd love to have a go at sand-dune skiing! Not so sure about boarding though!!
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- Day 23
- Tuesday, May 23, 2017 at 11:45 PM
- ⛅ 8 °C
- Altitude: 3,436 m
PeruPlaza de Armas Cusco13°30’55” S 71°58’59” W
20/05/2017-23/05/2017 Cusco

20/05/2017-23/06/2017 Cusco
We fell asleep in the desert and woke up 4000m above sea level in the mountains. After 14 hours on the coach we finally arrived in Cusco, and treated ourselves to a posh lunch overlooking the central square.
We spent our first day wandering round Cusco. Something we have loved about Peru is how diverse it is. Cusco is very mountainous and green. People dress traditionally here and there are lots of llamas. It is also very cold!!
We decided to be adventurous on our second day and do some via ferrata and zip lining. This involved climbing 400m up a cliff face, using ladders and steel girders, and then using 6 zip lines to get down. It was great fun.
That evening we went and had some more cerviche, and shared a bottle of wine.... we hadn't factored in the altitude and it went straight to our heads!! But was a lovely evening.
The following morning we got picked up at 3am to climb Rainbow Mountain. Rainbow mountain has its peak at around 5200m above sea level. We were told by lots of people that we were silly for attempting it on our 3rd day at altitude, and the chances of us completing it without the help of a horse were very slim. But, we did it! Although I think we can both agree it is probably the most physically challenging thing we have done. The altitude made it very difficult. It was worth it though. The pictures just don't do it justice, but the different colours of the rocks were spectacular.
As we reached the top of rainbow mountain, it started to snow. Which made the walk down slightly cold and wet!! But we were both very pleased with ourselves.
Today, we have been on a tour of the sacred valley. We have seen lots of Inca sites. Some of the sites were very well persevered and clearly showed how they were able to effectively farm at the side of a mountain. We also got to see an active salt mine, which was initiated by the Incas. It was a long day, but very interesting, and finished up with a briefing about our Salkantay Trek, which we are due to start tomorrow. We are both very excited about it!Read more

Colin BloreI hadn't thought of it being so cold but at that height it's going to be. Sounds a wonderful trip so far and you are certainly pushing yourselves as far as possible. Keep enjoying. X

David and Glynis MankelowThanks for the update. Enjoy the trek. Look forward to seeing the pictures and reading about it.

Caroline BloreI love the photo at the salt mines in your sunglasses. It's very arty! A Tom
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- Day 28
- Sunday, May 28, 2017
- ⛅ 16 °C
- Altitude: 2,450 m
PeruMachu Picchu13°9’46” S 72°32’42” W
24/05/2017-28/05/2017 The Salkantay Trek

24/05/2017-28/05/2017 The Salkantay Trek
We have returned from 5 days of trekking!
The Salkantay trek was a beautiful trek, in which we walked for over 60 miles over 5 days (the majority of which were pretty steep uphills and downhills).
Our group consisted of 11 people. We were joined by two Canadian couples and a group of 5 girls from the USA. We were so lucky with our group - we all got on so well. We called ourselves "the wet llamas" as the first two days were so rainy and we all got drenched. Our spirits remained high throughout though and we all helped each other through the trek!
On our first day, we trekked to a beautiful lagoon which was overlooked by a glacier. We got to witness an avalanche on the glacier, which was quite spectacular - we were far away enough to not have to worry!
A few of our group walked up higher to get a better view of the lagoon, which was worth it to see it change colour to a beautiful turquoise colour.
That night we stayed in glass igloos, which meant we could see the stars in bed, which was pretty cool!
The following day was one of the hardest. We hiked up to Salkantay Pass, at an elevation of 4630m, it was pretty challenging. Our guide, Ferdinand, promised us spectacular views at its peak - unfortunately it started to hale on our way up, and at the top had a complete white out, so did not get to see this!
This was one of the few things Ferdinand got wrong. We were extremely lucky to have him as our guide. He has been working as a guide on this tour for 8 years and so really knew his stuff! He was positive and encouraging throughout, and had a great sense of humour. We all adored him.
Fortunately, the weather cleared up for the last 3 days of our tour. On the Friday we recovered from our hike the previous day by visiting some natural hot springs in the afternoon to ease some of our aches and pains. We were pleasantly surprised at how clean they were, and all felt refreshed after them. The views of the mountains surrounding the pools were amazing.
The morning of our fourth day we hiked another mountain and at the top there were some inca ruins and Ferdinand taught us some more about the history of the incas. It was from the top of this mountain that we first saw, from a distance, a glimpse of Machu Picchu. In the afternoon we walked along the train line to Aguas Caliente, where we stayed before waking up at 3:30am to walk the 2000 inca steps to Machu Picchu.
Inca steps are not easy - the heights between each step are very inconsistent, and after four days of trekking, we could really feel the burn!
It was worth it though, Machu Picchu was amazing. Ferdinand gave us a tour of some of the important parts for a couple of hours. Then we said goodbye to him, which was sad! Tom and I then climbed Waynapicchu, which had some beautiful views over Machu Picchu.
In our tired state from all our hiking, we stupidly misread the signs when trying to get down. We ended up taking the long route down, which not only took us 200m lower than our starting point, took us back up a lot of stairs. It felt like we had climbed the mountain twice. At the end we took the 2000 inca steps back down to Aguas Caliente and could barely feel our feet!!
It is safe to say that on the train back to Cusco, we were all exhausted. We had had the foresight to book a nice hotel upon our arrival, and had one of the best nights sleeps we have had in Peru.
The following day we met up with 4 of the wet llamas for a walking tour of Cusco - the steps were quite difficult but it was really interesting.
Overall we loved our trek. The group was amazing, the cook made us some incredible meals and we had a lot of fun. It was very challenging at times but the satisfaction when we reached Machu Picchu made it so worthwhile. We would definitely recommend it and it has made us want to do more hikes in the future.Read more

David and Glynis MankelowWhat an awesome experience. Congratulations on achieving it all. Thanks again Alex for your eloquent description. X

Caroline BloreAaah guys that looks amazing. Well done. I bet you were sorely tempted to jump on a passing train haha. Great work!Xxx
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- Day 33
- Friday, June 2, 2017
- ☀️ 23 °C
- Altitude: 2,352 m
PeruPlaza de Armas Arequipa16°23’56” S 71°32’8” W
30/05/17-02/06/17 Arequipa/Colca Canyon

30/05/17-02/06/17 Arequipa/Colca Canyon
We took an overnight bus from Cusco to Arequipa. The journey took 10 hours and we both slept the majority of the way. I think it's safe to say all our trekking well and truly wiped us out!
Arequipa is the second largest city in Peru, although it does not feel like it. It is a colonial city, surrounded by snow topped volcanoes, some of which are still active. The is a large cathedral in their main square and lots of palm trees. It is a pretty city.
On our first day we decided to try our hands at some Peruvian cooking and attended a cooking class. We learnt to make cerviche, as well as some fried fish in a pisco (the Peruvian's choice of liquor) sauce. The best thing about the class was that we got to sample our food at the end. It was delicious and, if we can find the right kind of fish at home, will definitely try to recreate them at home!
Some girls we met during our cooking class recommended a Gelateria and so we decided to sample some gelato for pudding. They were right, it was incredible, and we ended up going every day we were in Arequipa. An Italian lady we met agreed it was some of the best gelato she had had before, so it must have been good!
On our second day we visited one of the museums. In 1996, some archaeologists discovered the frozen body of a girl aged around 12 years old on one of the volcanoes. Amazingly, despite dying 500+ years ago, all of her internal organs had been preserved and scientists have been able to find out more about the Incas in regards to diet, diseases etc as a result. They named her Juanita. She was on display in the museum, kept frozen at -20 degrees. They found bodies of 4 other children nearby, that were not so well preserved. This is all quite controversial, as the other bodies had offerings around them, which has led to the assumption that the Incas used children as human sacrifices to their gods to prevent the volcanoes from erupting. It was all very interesting.
During our visit the museum, we had to be evacuated for an earthquake drill. Something neither of us have been apart of before!
In the afternoon we visited a monastery, dating back to the 1500s. It covered 5 acres of land and was like a small gated community within the city. It felt very European, and was again very interesting. A little bit of quiet away from the city. Some of the original nuns belongings were still inside it, and their rooms had been left as they were.
That evening we walked up to a view point of the city. It was a bit underwhelming. But gave us a chance to appreciate just how large and sprawling Arequipa is.
The following day, we did a two day hike of the Colca Canyon - because we haven't done enough hiking! The Colca Canyon is the worlds second deepest canyon, and is twice as deep as the Grand Canyon.
Near to the beginning of our hike we stopped at a point to see some condors. They were very impressive, and it gave Tom the opportunity to partake in one of his favourite past times - attempting to take pictures of moving objects.
The first day we mainly hiked downhill. The conditions were very different to our Salkantay trek, with dessert landscapes, clear blue skies and temperatures of mid to late 20s. It was hot work!
We hiked down to an oasis at the bottom of canyon where we were to spend the night. There was a swimming pool there which was much appreciated! The accommodation was pretty basic and we had no lights and a straw roof. The stars were beautiful though and we both slept surprisingly well.
We started trekking the 1100m back to the top of the canyon at 5am to avoid walking in the sun too much. And watched the sun rise as we trekked. We both felt that our fitness has improved as a result of all our hikes! It was still challenging though.
On our way back to Arequipa, we stopped off at some more hot springs to ease our aches and pains as well as some viewing points, which gave us some spectacular views.
On our arrival back to Arequipa we treated ourselves to one last gelato!Read more

Caroline BloreI love these blogs. It's all so exotic! The food looks yummy. The landscape looks breathtaking. I've been watching Joanna Lumley's Postcards From Around the World but your version is much better. Love you xxxx

Colin BlorePictures look stunning and love the blogs. Really interesting with a lovely dash of you in there. X

Colin BloreLove the photos it all looks stunning. Blog is great and makes it feel we are sharing your journey but without the pain (and also all the excitement). X
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- Day 37
- Tuesday, June 6, 2017 at 10:20 PM
- ⛅ 15 °C
- Altitude: 3,805 m
PeruTilali15°48’42” S 69°20’52” W
03/06/2017 -06/06/2017 Lake Titicaca

03/06/17-06/06/17 Lake Titicaca
We have spent the past four days visiting Lake Titicaca, the worlds largest high altitude lake, sitting at 3808m above sea level. We started by visiting Puno, on the Peruvian side of the lake.
From Puno we took a boat to Islas Flotantes De Los Uros, a community of around 50 islands situated on the lake and made entirely of reeds. We were able to get off the boat and walk around the islands, which were surprisingly stable. One of the ladies showed us her home, made from pieces of wood and reeds. It was interesting to see how they manage to live with so little. On one of the islands they have built a shop, restaurants etc and on another is a primary school, villagers and tourists have to go between the islands by boats (also made from reeds), and we had a ride on one of these boats. As they have no engine, someone drives behind in a small boat with an engine pushing it along.
The following day we said “hasta luego” to Peru, and crossed the border into Bolivia. We spent two nights in Copacabana (not that one), where we got a panoramic view of the lake from our room, and our own private jacuzzi and wood burning stove, for a ridiculously cheap price.
On our first evening, we walked up a high hill to watch the sun set. Unfortunately the viewing spot was pretty dirty, with lots of graffiti and litter, but the view was worth it. It gave Tom the opportunity to do yet another time lapse on his gopro, so he was happy!
On one of our days we visited the Isla Del Sol, a boat journey away from Copacabana, on the lake. We spent our day hiking around the island and had some impressive views. We were accompanied by another dog throughout our hike to the top, we don't understand why we keep attracting them!
The hotel we stayed at had a very good restaurant, the best in Copacabana, for a very reasonable price. We took full advantage of this, and enjoyed a few meals there, including sampling the local delicacy, Lake trout, which was delicious. They also did chocolate fondues, and after a significant lack of chocolate during our trip so far, we enjoyed demolishing one on our last night, accompanied by some very nice Chilean wine.
Our last day in Copacobana we had a lazy morning packing and getting ready for La Paz as well as a nice walk around the Bay.Read more

Caroline BloreIt all looks lovely. That's a good pose with the dog. 'We're pretending to like this creature '! Xx

Richard Bloreaw... lovely to see you both looking so happy in the photos. I remember those floating reed islands! Thanks for the write up. xx
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- Day 39
- Thursday, June 8, 2017
- 🌬 12 °C
- Altitude: 3,623 m
BoliviaChijini16°29’31” S 68°7’12” W
06/06/2017-08/06/2017 La Paz

06/06/2017-08/06/2017 La Paz
We travelled by bus from Copacabana to La Paz. At one point in our journey we needed to cross part of the lake, which involved taking a “ferry”. The ferry was a wooden barge, which did not look like it would take the weight of a bicycle let alone a coach. Luckily we all got off and took a boat across the 0.5 miles, and so could witness without experiencing.
We got to La Paz late, and were exhausted, and once I had seen to a hangry Tom with a pizza, were finally able to go to bed.
The following day we tackled cycling The Death Road, “the worlds most dangerous road”. The road is a 64km gravel track, which is very windy. At points the track is only as wide as 3.5m. The highest point was 4300m high, with sheer drops. Since the building of an alternate highway, it is mainly tourists that use the road for mountain biking, with a small amount of local traffic.
We were recommended a company called Gravity by some friends from Uni. We did our research before booking and found them to be safe. They are a company run by a guy from New Zealand. On our tour we had 3 guides for 12 of us. The company have 7 full time mechanics to maintain the bikes, which never go out two days in a row. Our main guide was a Scot called Scott who installed regular breaks to ensure we were all ok, and to check our bikes with the mechanic. He gave us regular advice on how to tackle the next section and advised us of any obstacles we may encounter.
Since getting my foot stuck in a bike wheel, I have had an aversion to bikes, and other than a wobbly cycle around central park two years ago, have not been on a bike since I was about 9 years old. Although Tom cycles to work most days, he hasn't done much mountain biking, and the terrain was slightly different to Southampton, so this was quite a challenge for us both! However, we felt like we could not come to La Paz and not try it. Plus we both love a challenge.
We both came out the other side unscathed and neither of us fell off and celebrated with a beer at the bottom. We both really enjoyed it, and it's very different to what we have done so far.
The following day we did a walking tour of La Paz and got to know a bit more about its history. The tour started outside the infamous San Pedro prison (from the book Marching Powder). We were strongly advised against taking a tour inside.
The tour took us through some of the markets, which La Paz is famous for. Our guides told us about some of Bolivia's traditions and rituals, including the sacrificing of llama foetuses which are placed in the foundations of buildings. The foetuses were hanging up in the market which was a bit disconcerting.
In the afternoon we took the cable car up to another market at the top of the city. It was huge and covered over 20 blocks. We were told you could buy anything and everything there, which wasn't a lie. We saw everything from soups to toilets to car parts and even whole cars. From the market we got a lovely panoramic view of the city and the surrounding mountains.
We are currently at the airport ready to move on to our next stop, Uyuni.Read more
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- Day 41
- Saturday, June 10, 2017
- ⛅ 29 °C
- Altitude: 3,675 m
BoliviaUyuni20°27’32” S 66°49’25” W
08/06/17-10/06/17 Uyuni

08/06/17-10/06/17 Uyuni
We flew from La Paz to Uyuni to embark on a three day tour of the Salar De Uyuni, ending across the border in Chile.
Unfortunately due to heavy snow lots of roads were closed, including the border crossing, which meant that the tour company had to change our tour to just two days, ending back in Uyuni, and we would have to get a 13 hour bus from Uyuni to San Pedro De Atacama via an alternate crossing. It wasn't ideal but the weather is one thing we can't control so didn't have much choice.
We met a lovely couple from Australia/New Zealand, Max and Lisa, who are travelling with Max's mum, whilst on The Death Road. We found out that they were doing the same tour as us and so arranged to be grouped in the same 4x4.
The first day of our tour was Tom's birthday. We started by visiting the “train graveyard”, which is the remnants of a rail car factory dating back to the 19th century. We were able to climb on and look around all the old steam trains.
That afternoon was the main event, seeing the salt flats. They were impressive, and driving across them in our 4x4 neither of us had seen a landscape comparable before. We got some time to play around taking some pictures, taking advantage of the white background to take some perspective pictures.
Following this, we visited an area of volcanic rocks covered in cacti, which felt very out of place compared to the surrounding salt flats, where there was no sign of life for miles. That evening we watched a beautiful sun set over the salt flats.
We then traveled to our accommodation, a salt hotel, where the walls and furniture were made completely of bricks made of salt. Even the floor was salt gravel. It was freezing, and we were glad to have our thermals.
The following day we were driven back to Uyuni, via two lagoons where wild flamingos lived. They were very beautiful. We were surprised to see them in an area with so much snow, as always pictured them in more tropical locations.
It was interesting to see how much the landscape changed on our way back, and went through areas of coral (where the land was previously ocean) and bizarre volcanic rock formations.Read more

David and Glynis MankelowWhat amazing and unforgettable experiences. Thanks again for sharing them with us. X
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- Day 44
- Tuesday, June 13, 2017
- ⛅ 16 °C
- Altitude: 2,436 m
ChileSan Pedro de Atacama22°54’31” S 68°11’59” W
11/06/17-13/06/17 San Pedro De Atacama

11/06/17-13/06/17 San Pedro De Atacama
We got the bus at 4:30am from Uyuni to San Pedro De Atacama. This was an experience. Bolivian buses weren't quite as luxurious as the Peruvian ones that we were used to.
Despite the early start, one local lady on the bus seemed wide awake and sang along out loud to a karaoke app on her phone. It wouldn't have been so bad if she had actually had a good voice. There were also a large number of children on the bus. The company overbooked and some people ended up standing in the aisles for the duration of the journey. Luckily we had seats!
Crossing the border from Bolivia to Chile wasn't quite as straightforward as it had been crossing from Peru to Bolivia. The whole process took nearly two hours, and at one point involved us all sat against a wall with our bags lined up in front of us for a dog to be paraded up and down. Unfortunately for the security guards the dog seemed much more interested in what was going on around him and so took multiple attempts. We are not convinced the dog was actually trained in anything, and was purely there just for show.
The security staff were friendly though, and let Tom pass through with his contraband (a cheese sandwich for lunch) after he declared it.
Eventually, after thirteen hours, we reached San Pedro De Atacama. We decided to treat our time here as a holiday within our holiday, and be a bit more chilled than we have been. We also decided to stay somewhere a bit nicer than we have been, and stayed in a lovely hotel just outside the town centre, which had a heater in our room (which was very exciting).
Unfortunately we were told we would not be able to visit some of the tourist sites, such as the geysers and the lagoons due to the snow. The snow seems to have caused havoc in this area, and we were told it's unusual for time of year. It hasn't snowed locally for three years. It's reassuring to see the UK isn't the only country to shut down with a bit of snow.
On our first night we went for dinner with our friends, Max and Lisa and Janice. The food was great compared to Bolivian standards and we enjoyed the Chilean wine!
We had the first lie in for a long time the following day, and had a lazy morning, only going into town to book a tour for that afternoon. We visited Le Valle De Luna, so called as it resembles the surface of the moon. The landscape was a mix of rocks, salt and sand dunes, which was a beautiful combination. We did a bit of a walk up to the top of a sand dune and enjoyed the view of the surrounding Andes and volcanoes. After this we watched the sunset before having our last dinner with Max and Lisa before going our separate ways.
At 11pm we went to a star gazing session with a local astronomer. San Pedro is famous for its astronomy and people come here especially for it. Due to the lack of light pollution and low humidity it is a great place to see the stars.
Our guide started by showing us some of the consolations with the naked eye, and pointed out some planets which to us looked like stars. We then got the opportunity to look through his telescope at the planets, and were able to see the rings on Saturn and some storms that caused dark moving stripes on the surface of Jupiter. We could even see three moons orbiting Jupiter. When we looked at the moon through his telescope we were able to see craters, and he let us take photographs.
It was a very interesting evening and we both enjoyed it. It was so different to anything else we had done.
The following morning we hired some bikes from our hotel and cycled to some ruins nearby, before having to return to catch a flight to Santiago, the capital of Chile.Read more

Caroline BloreYou have some fabulous pictures. And you've seen it all for real too. I love these blogs. Xxx
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- Day 47
- Friday, June 16, 2017
- ⛅ 12 °C
- Altitude: 544 m
ChileQuinta Normal33°26’56” S 70°40’9” W
13/06/17-16/03/17 Santiago

13/06/17-16/03/17 Santiago
We flew from San Pedro to Santiago, the capital of Chile, where we started by enjoying a nice Steak at “The Fat Cow” restaurant.
The following day we took a bus to the town Valparaiso. This was the main port used in South America prior to the Panama Canal being built. It is still a busy port town today, and stood by the shore surrounded by shipping containers we felt as though we could be back home in Southampton.
Valparaiso is also famous for being a colourful town. The houses are all built into the hills and painted bright colours. Street art covers every possible surface available. We spent the day walking around viewing the art and taking cable cars up the hill at various points to admire the views.
On our second day in Santiago, we went to the ski resort of La Parva to enjoy a day on the slopes. Unfortunately due to high winds, a lot of the lifts were shut. However the resort was fairly empty, which meant that we were able to do the runs that were open plenty of times without queuing for lifts. All of the running lifts were drag lifts, which meant that by the end of the day we could really feel our legs! It was a great days skiing though and I have developed a new found appreciation for people who wear hired boots!!
We were due to leave Santiago for Mendoza the next day. We got up bright and early to heavy rain and were at the bus station by 7am to get our bus, only to find our bus was cancelled. The border was closed between Chile and Argentina due to heavy snow. Not ideal. After an hour and a half in an internet Café we changed our plan entirely and had booked flights the following day down to Patagonia. Fortunately for us we hadn’t booked too much in advance and got a full refund on our bus so haven't lost out too much.
With an extra day in Santiago to play with, we hid in a Café from the rain to come up with a plan of action. We started by visiting the home of Pablo Neruda, a Chilean poet and Nobel prize winner. His home had been turned into a museum. It was the house he built for his secret lover Mathilde, before leaving his wife and moving in with her. The house was built into the side of a mountain and was full of lots of impressive artwork and various items collected on his travels. The house was very quirky and felt like something from grand designs.
When we left the rain had settled, so we got the funicular to the top of the highest Hill overlooking the city. We decided to go for a walk afterwards, but in what seems to be a recurring theme of this trip, took the wrong walking path. This one was more of a mud slide than a path and we both finished up covered from head to toe in mud after sliding down most of it. So much for a gentle walk through the park.
As we finished the heavens opened again and so we took shelter in the shopping centre, which was the biggest either of us had seen. We contemplated going up the “tallest tower in South America” inside the centre, however when we were told there was no bar at the top, just a view, we decided against it. Plus the hill we had been on earlier that day had looked down on the tower, so we figured we had already seen the view for free.
We finished up our day by having a burger in a good old American diner, before turning up slightly wet and muddy at the airport hotel. I'm not sure they were too pleased!Read more

Richard BloreFunny to think how cold it is for you over there - today the temps hit 33 here
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- Day 53
- Thursday, June 22, 2017
- 🌧 10 °C
- Altitude: 29 m
ChileEstancia Pudeto51°5’38” S 72°59’13” W
17/06/17-22/06/17 Patagonia (Chile)

17/06/17-22/06/17 Patagonia (Chile)
Whilst everyone in England has been enjoying a heat wave, we have been enjoying the opposite extreme in Patagonia.
We flew from Santiago to Punta Arenes, where the air hostess informed us that temperatures outside were a balmy -4 degrees Celsius. Punta Arenes is the furthest south either of us have ever been. From here, we took a bus to Puerto Natales, a small town where, if it hadn't been for all the snow, we felt as if we could be in an old Western film.
We spent the night there, before hiring a car and driving to the National Park, Torres del Paine. On the morning of leaving, we thought we would make the most of the day and leave nice and early. We told our hostel we would want breakfast at 7am. When our alarms went off in the morning it was pitch black but we could hear the lady running our hostel clattering around getting breakfast ready. It was only then we decided to check when sunrise was.... 10am. We felt bad so got up and had breakfast before going back to bed for two hours so that we could leave in day light. She must have thought we were crazy!
The park covers 1810 square km, and has some spectacular scenery and impressive animals. On our first drive through the park to our hotel, we spotted many guanaco (cross between a deer and llama) that would leap across the road unexpectedly, birds of prey – including a condor carrying the remains of a poor animal and an owl hunting, nandus (ostrich like birds) and most excitingly a puma! If it hadn't been for a tour bus stopped in the middle of the road with tourists taking photos of it, we think we would have missed it. Unfortunately we did not get the opportunity to take a good picture as it stalked it's way out of site too quickly.
We were told that we were lucky to see it by the hotel owner, apparently it's quite rare! Our hotel was in a stunning location, situated on an island on Lake Pehoe. We had to cross a footbridge to reach it. The island was surrounded by mountains, and we were lucky to have a mountain view from our room.
We spent three days doing walks around the park and enjoying the amazing scenery which consisted of snow capped mountains, waterfalls and turquoise lakes. It was very picturesque. Due to it being winter, there were few other tourists, and so we were able to enjoy everything without large crowds. It was truly stunning. Tom made it his mission to see another puma, until we spotted a puma print in the snow whilst out walking on our last day. We reacted by panicking and running home.... In hindsight we have found out that that is not the way to react if met with a puma. You should instead make yourself as big as possible, by raising your hands above your head, and never turning your back to them. At least we now know what to do if we ever see a puma lurking in the streets of Southampton.
We returned to Puerto Natales, and were greeted by two forms of bad news. Firstly, our pre booked Hostel had cancelled our booking due to “maintenance issues” (we think it's because of the early breakfast thing) and secondly the buses to El Calafate, our next destination, had been cancelled until the weekend. We looked at various options available, and considered staying until the weekend, but with little else happening in the area felt that it was a waste of our time.
Fortunately for us, the man we rented a car from took pity on us and offered to drive us there for a reasonable fee, which meant we were able to keep to schedule and finally cross the border into Argentina.Read more
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- Day 57
- Monday, June 26, 2017
- ⛅ -4 °C
- Altitude: 191 m
ArgentinaLago Argentino Aerodrome50°20’20” S 72°16’25” W
23/06/17-27/06/17 Patagonia (Argentina)

23/06/17-27/06/17 Patagonia (Argentina)
We finally reached Argentina, thanks to the lift from our car rental friend (although, he told us that if he'd remembered that Chile were playing Germany at the football that day he would have charged us extra!). It was beginning to feel like we would never make it!
Our first stop in Argentina was a small town in Patagonia called El Calafate. It is a very touristy town, with lots of wooden buildings, trees and wide roads. It reminded us both of a resort like centre parks.
From El Calafate we visited the Perito Moreno glacier. This is one of the world's only stable glaciers, and hasn't changed in size during the last century. It was very impressive. At its tallest, it measures 70m high and a beautiful shade of blue. We walked around it, and also took a boat trip to see it a bit closer. It was freezing. Stood next to it, you could see and hear bits of ice breaking off into the water. The sound was incredible, and so loud. That evening we went to an ice bar, which was quite good fun, although equally as cold as at the glacier.
The following day we took a bus north to Puerto Madryn. Surprise surprise our first bus was cancelled, but after a few phone calls the company put us onto a different bus that left two hours later. We were worried that we may miss our connection bus, but luckily got it just in time.
Our second bus was very slow with lots of stops due to the snow (we were surprised it wasn't cancelled). We eventually got into Puerto Madryn 4 hours later than planned, making our total time on a bus 26 hours.
Our main reason for coming to Puerto Madryn was to see the Southern Right Whales. After our mission to get there we really hoped we would see them. We hired a car and drove to a port in the national park where we got a boat.
As we were walking to the boat we spotted our first two whales from the coast, and knew that it was already worth it. Once on the boat we saw loads, including calves. They would swim right up to our boat and go underneath. It was amazing. Definitely worth the hassle!
We are now heading further north, which we are both excited about, mainly as temperatures are above 15 degrees, which in comparison to the last 2 weeks is tropical! Although we are both sad to be leaving Patagonia.Read more

Richard BloreWith those whale photos it's hard to work out which bit of them we're looking at - or even how many there are. Wonderful pictures though!!

David and Glynis MankelowMore amazing experiences. Thanks for sharing them through text and pictures.
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- Day 58
- Tuesday, June 27, 2017
- ☁️ 16 °C
- Altitude: 24 m
ArgentinaPlaza de Mayo34°36’30” S 58°22’9” W
26-27/06/17 & 02/07/17 Buenos Aires

26-27/06/17 & 02/07/17 Buenos Aires
We arrived in Buenos Aires in the afternoon after an overnight bus ride from Puerto Madryn. The journey was made longer by the heavy traffic in the city. Not surprising I guess for a capital.
After a stop for lunch, we spent the afternoon having a nap and catching up on some z's after neither of us slept very well on the bus.
That evening we thought we would sample some of what Argentina is famous for, and enrolled in a tango lesson! We weren't very good, but it was a laugh, and nice to pretend we were competing in strictly come dancing.
That evening we went to a really nice tapas restaurant, which served amazing wine and great food.
The following day we did a walking tour of the city. It was interesting to find out some more about Argentina's history, and see some landmarks in the city. One thing that became very apparent to us both was how much Evita is idolised by Argentinians. We got to see some of the places she worked, lived and gave famous speeches etc. There are lots of monuments to her all over the city and her face is painted on some of the towers in the city. We learnt that when she died there was a fourteen day long funeral and the whole of Argentina ran out of flowers! Although the Argentinians respect the Andrew Lloyd Webber musical, they don't think it is an accurate portrayal of her, and they entirely despise the movie version with Madonna in it! Neither of us could get "Don't Cry For Me Argentina" out of our heads throughout most of our time in BA!
That afternoon we caught a plane to Mendoza. This was a very stressful experience, even for me who is a professional when it comes to catching flights late.
Due to protests in town, a lot of the roads were closed. The journey that should have taken 20-30 mins, took 80. Our taxi man was a sweet old man who could barely see over the steering wheel. He could not speak English. He was an angel and drove like a mad man to get us there. He definitely went through some red lights to get us there. We were already making alternate arrangements as we were so convinced we weren't going to get there.
Once we arrived 30 mins before take off, we ran through the airport with our huge rucksacks (which felt like we were in boot camp), managed to check in and had to run through security, pushing in front of the huge queue. We ran to our gate, red and sweaty and out of breath to a crowd of people sat down, relaxed and staring at us as if we were crazy. Our flight was delayed by 30 mins.
The lady at the gate was the same lady who checked us in, and congratulated us on how fast we got there.
We spent three nights in Mendoza (see next post) before returning to Buenos Aires for a day.
On our return we started by visiting La Boca, a riverside community famous for its brightly coloured buildings and artwork. It was very pretty and colourful.
For lunch, we went to a traditional restaurant where we both enjoyed a massive steak. Before we arrived in Argentina we associated it with good steak and good wine. On leaving, our presumptions have not changed. If there is one things Argentinians to very well it steak! We have had a lot of steaks here... easily the best I have ever had in my life! In fact, Tom has enjoyed them so much he has had steak every day of being in Argentina!
That afternoon we visited some of the "must see" things in Buenos Aires, which included a book shop in a converted theatre which was beautiful and the Ricoletta cemetery. The graves are bought by families and so multiple members are in each mausoleum, which are all decorated very elaborately. Many of the people buried there are famous or politicians. We visited Evita's grave there, which was covered in flowers.
That night we went to see Fuerza Bruta. This was a show at the cultural centre and was highly recommended to us. It was a cirque de solei style show, with lots of trapeze work, props and lighting. It was very creative and like nothing either of us had seen before!Read more

David and Glynis MankelowThose steaks look so good, so much better than the guinea pigs I imagined you eating in Peru! X David
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- Day 62
- Saturday, July 1, 2017
- ☀️ 12 °C
- Altitude: 762 m
ArgentinaMendoza32°53’1” S 68°51’2” W
28/06/17-01/07/17 Mendoza

28/06/17-01/07/17 Mendoza
We arrived in Mendoza, where we were renting an air bnb close the the city centre. The apartment had a fully equipped kitchen which meant we could cook our own food.
However on the first night we headed out for dinner. We had planned on grabbing something at the airport, but after our airport dash didn't have time. We obviously went for steak at a traditional Argentinian restaurant... it was delicious.
The following day we headed out to sample what Mendoza is famous for. Wine. We caught a bus to the suburbs, where there are many vineyards. On the bus we met a group of Brits with the same idea as us and together the six of us hired bikes and cycled from vineyard to vineyard sampling the local wines.
The setting was beautiful, with the Andes as a backdrop to the vineyards and the wine was delicious. Mendoza is most famous for its Malbec, which was very good!
Mendoza also has lots of mountains and rivers, and our second day we went white water rafting. Our instructor had a really good sense of humour and was really professional. The day was good fun, and even more importantly I did not permanently scar anyone in the process this time, luckily for Tom.
On our last day in Mendoza we spent the day walking around the 420 hectare park. The park features man made lakes, BMX track and even a football stadium. It was a lovely way to spend our day.
That evening we traveled back to Buenos Aires. We were both sad to move on from Mendoza, and would have liked to spend more time there, but are quickly running out of time on this trip and still have a lot to fit in!
We travelled back to Buenos Aires by bus. This was the most luxurious bus we have had (and they have all been pretty good!). Our seats reclined into full beds and we had our own tv screens. We got served steak for dinner with Malbec, which got topped up. The whole bus played bingo, with the conductor reading out the numbers over the tannoy. The prize was a bottle of wine, and Tom won! Which added a bit of excitement to our journey. We both slept very well on this journey, and were woken up at 7am as we pulled into Buenos Aires.Read more
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- Day 65
- Tuesday, July 4, 2017
- ⛅ 20 °C
- Altitude: 191 m
BrazilFoz do Iguaçu25°41’45” S 54°25’48” W
03/07/2017-04/07/17 The Iguazu Falls

03/07/2017-04/07/17 The Iguazu Falls
We got up at 3am to get an early morning flight to The Iguazu Falls. The Iguazu River is the border separating Argentina and Brazil and the falls fall on either side.
We started by flying into the Argentinian side, where we spent the day walking around the falls. The falls are spectacular and have been voted as one of the 7 wonders of nature. You could see them from all angles and at some points get pretty close to them.
The highlight was at the end when we took a train up to the top to view "The Devils Throat", an area where some of the largest falls meet. It got pretty wet! The amount of water was immense, and it really was an incredible view.
The following day we crossed over the border into Brazil and viewed them from the other side. The Brazilian side gave a good panoramic view of the falls.
That afternoon we visited a bird sanctuary. 50% of the birds had been rescued from trafficking and the remaining 50% had been born in the Avery.
It was very impressive as they had huge averys that you could walk through and get close to the birds. The averys were different depending on the environment that the birds liked (e.g. Water, jungle, forrest) and were so large they could still fly around without feeling too enclosed.
Most of the birds were local to South America, and so were brightly coloured and beautiful. The Macau Avery was the most impressive, with hundreds of beautifully coloured parrots flying overhead. They got pretty close at times and were incredibly loud. We also saw lots of toucans, which were really cool!
We are now in our last country! We can't believe how quickly time has gone, but still have time to fit in some more adventures and are heading to Rio next.Read more

Caroline BloreYou're brave. Birds scare me more than pumas! It looks spectacular. Reminds me of when I was a little girl playing around the Victoria Falls. Xxx
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- Day 70
- Sunday, July 9, 2017 at 8:37 AM
- ⛅ 20 °C
- Altitude: 23 m
BrazilMorro do Pasmado22°57’11” S 43°11’12” W
04/07/17-07/07/17 Rio De Janeiro

04/07/17-07/07/17 Rio De Janeiro
We flew from Iguazu to Rio de Janeiro. This was part of our trip we were both looking forward to, but also marks that our trip is coming to an end which we are both gutted about.
In Rio we stayed in guest house that was recommended to us by a friend of a friend. It is run by a brother and sister from Canada. We are glad it was recommended to us, as was a bit away from the typical tourist locations in Rio and so we would never have found it! Although it wasn't central, it was really easy to get Uber's and they were incredibly cheap. The owners were so lovely and friendly and gave good advice on how to fill our time in Rio. Plus the view from their veranda was insane! You could see all over Rio. It was called Casa Dois Irmaos and we would thoroughly recommend it if anyone goes to Rio.
We had two full days to fill, and we really did fill them! On our first morning we did a lot of walking. We visited the Botanical Gardens and the Parque Lage which were very pleasant.
We then went to visit Rio's famous beaches. Starting by walking along Ipanema Beach and going up to Copacabana. We were pleasantly surprised by the beaches, which despite being city city beaches, were very clean. Even for a Tuesday afternoon in "winter" they were busy and lively.
In the afternoon we decided to climb the Sugarloaf, one of the mountains in Rio that offers great views of the city. We could have taken the cable car, but decided to go an alternative route and climb.
Our guide spoke limited English, and told us it would be mainly hiking, with 15m of climbing. We think that his meaning of "hike" was different to ours, it was more of a scramble and the majority of it was so steep we crawled up on our hands and knees. It was hard work but great fun! And so nice not being surrounded by other tourists.
At the top, there was a bar (yay!) so we stayed to watch sun set over Rio with some cocktails, which were lovely. We got the cable car down though!
The following day we started by visiting a favela. These are the "slums" in Brazil, where the poorer population live. There are lots of bad associations with favelas and the people from favelas, predominantly as many are run by drug traffickers and invoke large amounts of crime. Since the take over by Police Pacifying Units (UPPs) they have become overall safer to live in. There are lots of very strict rules and regulations in the favelas, including that anyone caught stealing gets their hand cut off, which actually made it safer than some other places in Rio.
We visited Rocinha, which is the largest favela in Rio, with 300,000 people living inside it. It is one of the safest favelas in Rio, with low crime rates. We were shown around by a student who had grown up in Rocinha and still lived their now. She was very sweet and showed us all around, including her own home, which was really nice of her. It was actually quite nice inside. The tour company she works for is run by a half American- half Brazilian man, who was born in the favela and returned to the favela 20 years ago. He has been living there since. It was interesting to experience a different area of Rio and learn that all the prejudices associated with favelas was not accurate. In fact, people in favelas are treated very unfarely.
That afternoon we stopped by a cafe to have empanadas for lunch, we have had quite a lot of these throughout our time in both Brazil and Argentina. They are like pasties filled with a variety of fillings and a very common and popular snack/lunch out here. These particular empanadas were some of the best!
We then took the cog train up the mountain to see the Christ the Redeemer statue up close. Throughout Rio you can see it up on the mountain, however whenever we looked there was a cloud over it!
When we got to the top, we were surrounded by cloud, but you could still see see the statue pretty clearly.
It is one of the modern 7 wonders of the world, but we weren't overly impressed! But we couldn't come to Rio without seeing it.
Another thing we couldn't come to Rio without seeing was the Escadaria Selaron, the brightly coloured stairs created by a Chilean artist, Jorge Selaron. They are covered in lots of coloured tiles and are impressive. We visited en route to our evening activity - food tour.
We heard about the company "Eat Rio" from our guest house. It is run by a Brit called Tom who moved here 7 years ago after meeting his now wife travelling. His tour takes you to lots of traditional places, off the tourist track to sample lots of Brazilian food and drinks. Everyone we spoke to highly recommended it, but it was a full day so we didn't think we would be able to fit it in.
Tom emailed him in advance asking whether they offer an evening tour, and we were in luck! We were offered to be his guinea pigs in an evening tour that he hadn't yet trialled at 50%.
It was a lot of fun! There were 7 of us trying it out and he took us to some really interesting places, varying from street food to "high end", to try lots of Brazilian food and drink. We loved it, and Tom the tour guide was a great guy.
The tour ended in a samba club which was fun. We ended up being out for 8 hours, but time flew by!
On our last morning we thought we would say bye to Rio from the sky, by trying our hand at hang gliding. Initially, the instructor cancelled due to the wind, but it picked up for us which was great. We were able to see all over Rio. It was great fun.
Overall, we loved Rio, and definitely want to come back one day!Read more

Richard BloreExcellent. sounds like you crammed an enormous amount of things into such a short space of time!!

Colin BloreThe whole trip sounds amazing. Some fantastic memories and great experiences.
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- Day 71
- Monday, July 10, 2017
- ⛅ 24 °C
- Altitude: 707 m
BrazilIlha Grande23°9’34” S 44°13’54” W
07/07/17-11/07/17 Costa Verde

07/07/17-11/07/17 Costa Verde
We are writing this at the airport in São Paulo having had an incredible few weeks.
We spent our final few days travelling along Costa Verde, the coast line between Rio de Janeiro and São Paulo, to enjoy some sun!
We hired a car from Rio and set off to our first stop, Ilha Grande. The majority of the journey was fine, but was a little bit hairy driving through some of the cities. We got there in one piece, managing to get to the last boat of the day with minutes to spare. It's safe to say our time keeping has not improved throughout our trip!
Ilha Grande is home to Lopes Mendes beach, which was voted one of the top 10 beaches in the world. It was very secluded, with white sand and very blue sea. It was so secluded that you have to hike for 2.5 hours to get there. We had a lovely chilled afternoon playing in the sea.
The hike there wasn't easy, but was very pleasant and we stopped off at various beaches en route. On one of the beaches there was a floating bar in the sea, where we enjoyed some cocktails and BBQ in a picturesque setting.
After two nights on the island, we returned to dry land and travelled further up the coastline to a town called Paraty. Paraty is very beautiful and has amazing cobbled streets with the biggest cobble stones we have ever seen. We spent our first afternoon doing a bar crawl of the beach bars, enjoying some final caipirinhas, which made manoeuvring the cobbles on the way home a bit tricky!
On our final day, we went horse riding in the hills surrounding Paraty. The views were spectacular, and our guide clearly adored his horses.
That afternoon we took the long drive (4.5 hours) to São Paulo where we spent our final night in an airport hotel, so that we would be there in plenty of time to catch our flight the following day.
We have both had an incredible time and are both disappointed to be leaving. If we could stay longer, I don't think either of us would think twice about it! We will definitely be back. This trip has definitely stirred up the travelling bug... we can't wait for our next adventure.Read more

Richard BloreIt looks beautiful down that coastline. Thank you guys for sharing your trip with us. I have loved following your movements, hearing yours news and seeing your photos. The write-ups have been really engaging and entertaining and the pictures stunning. Well done! Now I'm off to LHR to pick you up. xx