The start of the wild

We are now en route from coyhaique (the biggest town we have seen - but still tiny) heading towards the real business. Not many miles of tarmac to go and then it will be Ripio until Argentina.

We cross the plains which have been cleared of the dense trees we have become accustomed to. There is more traffic than before but eventually we leave most of it behind and now we are climbing steadily up towards volcanic mountains. Here we spend the night alone at the closed national park campsite sheltered by the trees (and hoping not to be chucked out)

In the morning we are cycling in rain and cloud with occasional glimpses of just a little of what we are missing. Another pass and then down. A gap in the cloud below us and we can see what is to come. A tolkeinesque vista with sun and snow, glacial valleys and rock formations. Its impressive. Later we visit 3000 year old handprints protected under a cliff overhang. Then its a real struggle into a headwind and rain showers to finally arrive at our campsite which comes with the usual array of dogs, sheep and chickens and, this time, 3 alpacas.
One of the notable features of our trip is the number of protective shelters. Bus shelters are great for a rainy day picnic. Campsites too, often have an enclosed wind and rain proof table at many pitches. Perhaps a bit worrying but appreciated all the same.Read more