Satellite
Show on map
  • Day 30

    Kotor bay

    October 4, 2023 in Montenegro ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    We exit Dubrovnic on EuroVelo route 8 - it's the only route heading south. It's pretty much the most risky ride we have ever cycled. When a lorry honks just behind your left ear at 90 km hour on a busy narrow road it’s probably best to move off the road (once you have finished jumping out of your skin). We were both shaken when finally we had a choice and found a quieter scenic route along the coast to the Montenegro border crossing.
    Just around the corner, our first view of the much acclaimed Kotor bay. Our hearts sink. The shores are lined with apartments, hotels, and sea resorts. Beautiful waters, backset by mountains, but we just had not expected so much development.
    The next morning, we cross on the free ferry to find a quieter route along the shore, then pay a brief visit to Kotor. A beautiful walled town with too many tourists for Alice.
    Now it's time to head up the mountain. It's a long but well graded climb with stupendous views back to the bay and to the seas. We make steady progress buoyed by the scenery.
    And just as we are trying to figure out where to spend the night, a tiny campsite perched above the viewpoint “free for cyclists”. It has tiny terraces that have been covered in astroturf (turns out to be surprisingly comfortable if ecologically wanting). There is a restaurant attached which we plan to use for dinner - but which, counter to google-info, shuts just before we walk down. We hastily pick up water and cook from our supplies. The sunset and the night lights below are a wonder to behold.
    Read more