"We love each other"

From Trešnjevik pass, we tumble down the hill, first among fall colours, then back into summer heat and sun and farmland.

We encounter a monument in memory of patriots from several wars, including 600 Partisans and 900 civilians killed during WWII. The joined pillars symbolise the 6 former republics of Yugoslavia joining hands. Near the monument, several trees were planted. One of them is an elm (un orme). Elms have almost been wiped out in western Europe by disease. Alain finds the symbolism very touching.

Plav is situated in a high plain, near a quiet lake surrounded by broad mountains. We are looking forward to our reserved room at the irresistibly named "The Bear Hug". After a minor fiasco (un embrouillamini), involving finding another couple in our reserved bed, we move to a charming villa run by a moslem family. We have a great terrasse with view on the lake and the several minarets in this largely moslem town. Our dirty laundry is graciously washed and hung to dry. Of course, this is the muslim world, so we take off our shoes before crossing the door; and the call to prayer by the muezzin fills the air thrice a day, including 6:00 am.

At the tourist office, the lady shows us the locations of the 3 mosques and the church. We naively ask: "Any issues?" NO, she says emphatically, WE LOVE EACH OTHER!Read more