Pergamon

In Bergama we stay with Metin, a generous dentist and amateur cyclist, who lets us use a spare room and kitchen in his clinic for two nights; it’s our first use of the ‘warmshowers’ program in Turkey and it’s really nice!

On the nearby hill, dominating the valley, is the site of Pergamon, the ancient city where Greeks, Persians, Macedonians, Trace, Romans, Byzantines and a few more held headquarters of a once powerful city and state. Our visit is generously bathed by multiple interventions of rain, sun, and wind.

On top of the hill, we admire a temple to the glory of Trajan the Roman emperor who was deified — what is left of his statue reveals that he did not mind the terrestrial goodies of Roman banquets ;-). An interesting feature of visiting ruins is that parts of the construction, originally intended to be hidden, are revealed: the huge podium supporting the temples was built on a multi-vaulted structure anchoring it on the rock, which is perfectly preserved.

The most spectacular remain is that of a very steep Greek theatre carved in the hillside; sitting near the top row for a little snack, we can only imagine what it once was for a play, a singing contest, or a beautiful sunset. Rain kicks us off our daydreaming.

Back in the city we visit the bazaar, manage to buy two pairs of socks, and stock up for dinner, including a stop at the “patiseri” — pastry shop. We joyfully share cooking and dinner with Metin and his old dad, who expresses his satisfaction with the roasted chicken thighs.Read more