Frost in Hitite land

Our time in Türkiye is coming to an end. In three days, we should be in Konya to prepare for the flight home. We arrange to pay an overdue visit to the Hitites, who ruled Anatolia from 1500 to 1000 BCE, said to have been the first to develop iron tools and weapons. After a scenic and freezing ride along the lake, we find a very peaceful monument, assembled from individual sculptures carved in volcanic rock.

Going east, we ride along a little road through villages, meadows and broad mountains. Sure enough, the road narrows, turns to dirt and then mud, and the mudgards fill up. By now, we know what to do and we sort ourselves out.

The mountains are shining with snow. As we climb, the temperature drops, and we cycle amongst snow and ice. A gentle meadow welcomes us at 1650m. It is comfortable until sunset, then a serious cold sets in. Time to "dance the warm-up" and brace for a night of -8C in the tent. There is no wind, and we survive well. A lonesome mini-minaret provides a local retransmission of prayers and keeps us company.

This is such a powerful experience, every moment of the night inspires peace and beauty.Read more