The Lake Titicaca crossing

After the boat ride back from Isla del Sol, we are headed for the Bolivian Cordillera Real and La Paz. We have another 100km or so to complete alongside lake Titicaca. A sunny afternoon climb brings us to a small pass where there are views to both the north and south parts of lake: lake Titicaca is almost two lakes with a small channel connecting the two parts. Its a lovely ride. We descend to the “ferry” to cross the connecting channel. It turns out there is no single ferry but instead a flotilla of small rickety wooden rafts that take a couple of vehicles each at a time. There is plenty of room for the bikes - just we need to take care that the wheels do not go in between the extremely uneven planks or on one of the many rusty nails. The raft has a small outboard motor and one ferryman who races up and down the boat between the engine and the ropes. Its a bit of a free for all leaving the west shore and once we are out it becomes clear that the raising wind and waves are a challenge for the small craft. The engine keeps cutting out and the whole boat is flexing alarmingly. Alice reassures herself that they must know what they are doing and surveys the lurching bikes. By the time we land there are no boats left on the water and instead a large queue of vehicles is forming. It will be another couple of hours before the wind drops enough for them to resume crossings.

We spend the night in a small hotel with a tiny window that overlooks the channel. Surprisingly we can find no food in town. Emergency rations to the rescue.

The next morning is our last ride along the lake - its very pretty and a quiet but tarmacked road. The end of the lake is soon in sight- with ever better views of the snowy Cordiellera ahead. There is a significant flat hinterland to cross and soon we roll into the small and untouristy town of Achacachi.Read more