The mists of Ancohuma

We end up spending three nights of rest in Achacachi. Alice has food poisoning and is out of action. Shopping for food in this little town is a bit tricky, there are shops on the two Plazas of the village, but the offerings are limited in both variety and quality. Restaurants are, at best, basic - the usual chicken with rice and chips, or rice with a dusting of ground beef.

A beautiful day arrives and we take off. Our next stage is to pay a visit to the giant of Cordillera Real, Ancohuma, 6427m, now less than 30km away. As soon as we are out of town, the glaciers shine proudly and show us the way. Quickly we are in the countryside on a network of rather cobbly dirt roads. Local peasants wave us very kindly and the scenery is grand.

Since we started near 3850m and the pass at the foot of the mountain is only around 4500, the climb is not so serious, but the cobbles and the patchy dirt road fixes make it difficult. We reach the pass soon after midday - but the great Mt Ancohuma has decided to cover itself with threatening clouds. The wind starts to rage. We decide to base ourselves near a little lake and pitch the tent before getting soaked.

It is really a very nice spot! We spend the night and the next day in the mist in company of birds, a great play of light and clouds, a good deal of rain and the occasional rainbow. Little is seen of Mt Ancohuma, however.Read more