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  • AliceAlain
  • AliceAlain

Peru

A 103-day adventure by AliceAlain Read more
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  • Trip start
    August 20, 2025
    AliceAlainPeruTraveler
    As often in latin America, wall paintings abound. We actually saw such butterflies in the jungle.
    1A Tuk-Tuk from the airport - just for the bikes (boxed)Our first amazonian meal1View over tarapoto from our room at sunrise1The key cutters workshopMural of a strange jungle creature with features of sloth, dog, bear...?Intriguing detail on this mural.Another symbolic figure... protecting or threatening?Another beautiful butterflyAhuashiyacu waterfallA pretty, but different, fern under the waterfallThe jungleImmense bamboo (20m?)There are plenty of road worksFancy living here?

    Tarapoto

    Aug 21–23, 2025 in Peru ⋅ 🌙 25 °C

    What will be waiting for us in Peru? As we mark our first real footprint, it becomes clear that nothing is as expected. Our first stage is the tiny airport of Tarapoto, a good 20 meters walk between the landing spot, luggage delivery, and the taxi, which turns out to include a tuk-tuk for the bikes! This tricycle is the main means of transportation in this town of ~200k. Situated in the foothills of the Andes, Tarapoto is the gateway to the Amazonas.

    Beyond a few chores and errands, we take time to enjoy some fine Amazonian cuisine, including big chunks of Paiche, a gigantic river fish. To round this off we endure/adore a tuk-tuk ride to a great waterfall in the jungle.    Read more

  • AliceAlainPeruTraveler
    Its a slow climb, but we would beat a sloth. The cloud forest is to be protected!
    Spot the dangling nests of a bright yellow noisy birdWe test out Alice's tent adaptation to allow us to use the inner as a mosquito net.Naranjos villageThere is a lot of campaigning for the upcoming elections in 2026This too.Its a toll road (hence in good condition).In the cloud forest1These dozey butterflies are everywhere1Like here.. and on the roadFinally a proper viewOur pitch near the village school (its a bit noisy from the road)

    The first pass

    August 22, 2025 in Peru ⋅ ☁️ 27 °C

    Tarapoto is low and steamy. The plan is to take a taxi up the long busy valley to where the mountains start. Despite assurances from the hotel, the lift with bikes (still boxed) is a challenge. A van is arranged but when it turns up it is a taxi and too small. A bigger one is ordered and we just just squeeze in,
    Then it is 4 bumpy and alarming hours on the road. Much slowed by motorbikes, tuk tuks and monster lorries. The road signs (no overtaking, 35km/h) are uniformly ignored. The only thing that makes a difference are the ferocious bumps in urban areas- for which everyone slows to almost zero.

    Once out of the taxi, we rebuild our bikes ready for tomorrow.

    The ride to the pass is heavily forested and 1800m of climb. We really need to make it to the top as there is almost nowhere we would willingly put a tent. And so we push on, hurrying a little as we need to find somewhere before 6pm as darkness falls early here. Luckily just over the pass we find a tiny village with space for a tent. We ask the locals and get the thumbs up. Pitching the tent near the new school and the half built soon to be toilet block (water and sanitation are clearly a big current project in this part of Peru). We are the subject of gentle interest and are very kindly given garden lettuce, carrots and 2 eggs.    Read more

  • AliceAlainPeruTraveler
    Raining buckets and providentiel shelter
    A shower catches us in this narrow valley1Flowers, fruit and vegetables in this tiny garden1We shelter and catch the feeling of the road and of this little settlementMany different animal types to be respected hereIn Pomacochas, an old house made of mud bricksRecent constructions mostly consist of hollow mechanical bricks.1We are getting in sight of Pedro Ruiz.1While I take the previous photo, a pig comes to taste my front tyre!After a rest day, we start bright and earlyThis IS a banana tree!Riding up along the Rio UtcubambaBig peaks starting to appearGetting seriously mountainousWhere is the waterfall, now?

    The second pass

    August 24, 2025 in Peru ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    The downshifting of large trucks is a powerful alarm clock. We are awake early, having survived several episodes of heavy rain; well done tent!
    The task of the day is to get over another 2350m pass in the cloud forest, to reach the Utcubamba valley.

    Alice's bike, Constance, wobbles alarmingly in the descents and we try to exorcise the shimmy out of it. Putting the weight here, there, everywhere; exchanging rider, etc. does not fully solve it.

    We bravely keep going through gorgeous areas of forest and views, only interrupted by spells of heavy rain. At the top of the pass, in Pomacochas, we stop for a welcome and warming tea and soup.

    Finally, our goal is in sight, an open landscape, and high mountains surrounding the transit town of Pedro Ruiz. While Alain stops to enjoy the view, a big pig takes a taste of his front wheel.

    We spend a quiet day recovering in Pedro Ruiz. Next morning we start the more touristic road that will eventually take us to the pre-Inca site of Kualep.    Read more

  • AliceAlainPeruTraveler
    1Its not actually landing on Alice's head
    View back over the valley from CocachimbaThe upper and lower Gocta falls2The very bottom of the falls1With wonderful ever changing patternsJust below the falls1Cloud forest vegetationA fractal fernLate afternoon light1Our favourite cook in CocachimbaBuenos noches!1Morning prayers at 7.15 at the building site

    Gocta waterfalls

    August 26, 2025 in Peru ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    The 771m Gocta falls were only “discovered” in 2005. They are in 2 parts, the top fall of 231m and the bottom one 540m. The waterfall is now well and truly on the tourist trail.

    We pedal up the hairpin bends to the village of Cocachimba where the trail to the lower falls begins. Its a 6km walk each way and rather more up and down that we had anticipated. Its worth the effort - over 500m of falling water is really very impressive. The landing water creates beautiful changing patterns on the black rocks below.

    Along the footpath we see many birds we don’t recognize. There are vultures and a large flock of noisy wheeling parakeets. Also beautifully coloured butterflies and delicate damselflies. I didn’t see the mosquitos, but some of them found me tasty. The cloud forest is lush with ferns and flowers.

    Cocachimba is a quiet tiny village with a great view of the mountains and waterfall. As Alice is struggling with a cold and chest infection we decide to spend a quiet day here.    Read more

  • AliceAlainPeruTraveler
    The Utcubamba in the rapids
    This is a 2000m deep valley1Little plot of maize in front and bananas in the back.Hot climate plants on the sunny side of the gorge1Life is beautiful... and fragileImagine rafting this?1Roadside wood fired bread oven1Beautiful succulent- never seen one like that beforeThe virgin of sorrows welcomes the highway police ´the guardian angels of the Peruvian roads'1Guardian angels in actionAction: take a close-up of these beautiful flowersIts not a tree with purple flowers. Its a purple flowering air plant1This Pampa's cat is somewhat endangered2The opossum

    The gorges of the Utcubamba

    August 28, 2025 in Peru ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    Descending from Cocachimba we continue wobbling research on Alice's bicycle. We find a compromise by relocating Alice's front charge to Alain's back paniers. In exchange Alice will carry the tent for the climbs and give it back to Alain for the descents.

    We are now back in the gorges of the Utcumbaba river, a tributary of the powerful Marañon. The valley is nearly 2000 m deep, and the show is great at any scale! From the river itself (imagine kayaking or rafting!) to the little plots of banana tree, maize, flowers, also the wild ones and cactuses. The housing, variety of churches, catholic and many brands of evangelists, adventists, and the roadside advice panels (e.g. water is life, don't contaminate it!).

    A bakery with a genuine wood oven is situated on the road, for the famished traveller and we can acquire some empenadas -- Peruvian bread is *not* made for Europeans.

    As we sit on a wall near the river for our lunch, we spot an interesting animal lying on it. It is dead (road kill presumably) but intriguing. After some research, this cat-size furry racoon-looking beast is an opossum! Many species of these marsupials thrive in the Amazon and equatorial America.

    We are now on a potholed and at times dirt road up towards the last village Nuevo Tingo, before Kuelap. Our host for the night, JJ, is a dynamic character, after a while talking in English we realize that he lived in Paris, had a French girl friend, and also speaks french perfectly.    Read more

  • AliceAlainPeruTraveler
    1Temple the shape of an inverted cone, containing a top opening internal sacrificial chamber
    1000m up on the new cablecarFirst view of the wallsThe outer walls1The narrow steep entranceLooking from Kuelap to the mountains beyond, the entrance just belowCircular housing, with fireplace, platform and drainage channel1Structure of the housingModel of KuelapTypical Chachapoyas rhomboid designThe walls of KuelapEpiphytes are everywhere, on rocks as well as these treesThere are further walled raised areas insideMarking the four points of the compassA later rectangular Inca building1Rhomboid and triangulated patternsArchaeologists at work. Much of the site is still overgrownTime to head downAnimal with condor head, feline tail and snake, representing 3 dimensions of gods, life and death1The walk back down to the lift with views around

    Kuélap, city of the Chachapoyas

    August 29, 2025 in Peru ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    Kuélap sits atop a 3000m mountain and is branded the Machu-Pichu of the north. It was constructed by the Chachapoyas civilization, who occupied the catchment area of the Utcubamba river, a remote and isolated portion of northern Peru. The Chachapoyas are also known as the cloud people since the mountains they lived in are shrouded in clouds in many seasons - hence also the cloud forest vegetation in the region.

    The Chachapoyas seem to like high places and this means many of their structures are hard to access. Kuélap is relatively recently discovered and still in the process of being explored and uncovered. It is a mountain top walled administrative town/ fortress/ sacred mountain with emphasis depending on what theory you read. There may have been around 3000 people living there. The most recent theories seem to favour the religious and sacred aspect, with temples, some tombs and evidence of sacrifices. The settlement dates from 500 to 1100AD and predates Machu Pichu by some 500 years.

    Arrival at Kuélap is impressive and is much eased by a smart new telecabin which avoids a long long drive. Even from the top of the lift, there is still an uphill walk to reach the entrance. The view is dominated by the high stone walls that surround the long narrow settlement. Perched high with 360 views around, it is a magnificent location.

    The 3 entrances are impressively deep long narrow and steep. One person wide and easy to defend. Inside, every building is circular, many showing a hearth, platform, and some a drainage channel or grinding stone.

    The Incas arrived around 1470 and appear to have continued to use Kuélap as a sacred place, adding some rectangular buildings. The site was abandoned after the Spanish conquest of 1570.    Read more

  • AliceAlainPeruTraveler
    1Skull, hair and assorted bones of a young Chachapoya man tied with vegetal rope
    Museum entranceThe six Chullpas1The mummy collection, most are wrapped11A wrapped mummyMap of Peru and it's climatic/vegetation regions, showing where Chachapoyas were established2Guinea pigs? What are they doing in the kitchen?They live just next to the pot...Precolumbian music was very elaborate, with flutes and tuned percussionsCaramba! This one does not have a broken ear! (for Tintin experts)This high class man wears a furry hat decorated by the skull of the fur ownerVase1Thought to be an otter jug1An opossum bag.

    Leimebamba museum

    August 30, 2025 in Peru ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    In 1996, six farmers discovered a new Chachapoyas burial site on a high ledge with six chullpas (figures) and 219 mummies. The mummies are now stored in a small community museum near Leimebamba.

    Most of the Chachapoyas monuments are remote, very high, and typically on an inaccessible cliff. For several, the only access is to abseil down the cliff- which begs the question of whether the Chachapoyas also knew how to abseil. Given the difficulty of access and the long distance views for normal visitors, we have not had time (or legs) to see the sarcophagi (bring binoculars) or other cliff burial sites. However the museum lies on our route.

    The mummies are quite different to the Egyptian mummies we are accustomed to. They are bundled with knees folded and arm’s crossed.

    A number of other delightful artefacts and explanations are on display.    Read more

  • AliceAlainPeruTraveler
    4The highest place we've ever been with our bicycles!
    As we progress from Kuélap up the Utcubamba, the valley widens, the river is reduced and clearer.The water is cleaner nowArriving in Leymebamba2The plaza de armas is very clean and quiet on saturday morning. She sells delicious mangos!A late 19 century church on the plaza des armas. Hardly a car to be seen.As we climb up from the museum, we get nice views of the higher valleyThis is a tarmacked road, with potholes and dirt sections. There is often no choice but pothole.Around 2800-3000 we feel like in Normandie (or England). Big clouds are coming1Some great views, we are still climbing. How far is the pass again?Meditation at the rhythm of pedals and changes of views...The vegetation changes, as we go through slices of itNow getting above the tree line around 3450We had not seen a vehicle since quite a while3It is cold and windy, legs hurt, breath is short, but what a beautiful climb!3Well earned sense of victory!1The truck made it too!

    The Calla Calla pass

    August 30, 2025 in Peru ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    As we cycle deeper into the mountains, the scenery changes and widens; the river becomes smaller and cleaner. The settlements remain very poor, with smily but dusty children, dogs barking at cyclists. Modernity comes with corrugated steel roofs and piles of trash. We still have not seen a llama!

    Arriving at Leimebamba is a shock: a historic colonial town, with clean houses well lined up along the streets, a pristine central square (Plaza de Armas), well maintained cobbled streets. We enjoy the night spent there, purchase a few provisions, including plenty of juicy fruit, visit the museum (previous post), and by 11:00, slowly but surely, we attack the 1400m climb that will bring us out of the Utcubamba valley and into the next.

    A long climb combines management of effort (with the help of gears), food and water with the enjoyment of changing scenery, vegetation, animals, even humans and the discovery of the beautiful order of the mountains. It is also a long meditation :- me, my bike and the rhythm of the pedals, my breathing, at some point the pain, the wind, the cold; the processing of all the new things we have seen, read, heard, and, always, thoughts of home, family and friends.

    These many hours culminate with the great pleasure of the long awaited sign post! Yes, we made it. We've never been so high before!    Read more

  • AliceAlainPeruTraveler
    1Our road can be seen skirting the hillside aheadAnd looking back towards the pass11Between a rock and a hard place?It brightens a little behind us2Evening sun rays1Fold after fold of mountainOn the village football field with view behind1The village shopAnd this is the view on the otherside of the field the next morning1This is the school

    A different scale

    August 30, 2025 in Peru ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    It is hard to explain the moment of awe when we suddenly see the view of the river gorge we are about to descend. Almost 3 vertical km of it. Normally, crossing a pass means the scenery shifts, but rarely does it feel so unexpected, and on such an altogether different scale. We have never had such a feeling of depth before us.

    It is already 4.30pm, the sky is largely clouded but with odd rays of light of the sun. Our photos fail to fully capture its subtle yet dramatic beauty.

    Our mission for the end of the day is 2-fold. First, descend to close to 3000m ( in keeping with the advice for altitude adjustment) and second, find a spot for the tent.

    The descent contours around the mountains and gently down, then some hairpin bends. After some time we arrive in a tiny village nestled in a col with views on both sides. In the centre is a football field, next to school. ´Can we put a tent here for the night’. ´yes, no problem’. As we rapidly pitch the tent in the falling night, the village shop arrives courtesy of a pickup truck. The wares are spread out on the ground and quite a number of villagers arrive to stock up. The atmosphere is lively. No one seems at all fussed when we join in and buy some fresh fruit and vegetables.    Read more

  • AliceAlainPeruTraveler
    1Just look at that view
    Setting off to a beautiful light1We have the road almost for ourselves1A glimpse at the high peaksRains have carved their waysWe feel very small in this immense play of light and shadowsThe road surface is very variableA little settlement in a patch of green1A tuk tuk, the main local transportationPeering over the edge, playing with vertigo1The road meets a group of the pink treesThe river comes into view at ~1700m1Close up of the meandering Marañon

    The Marañon valley

    August 31, 2025 in Peru ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    We get going early, to a pure blue sky, with the perspective of a long and beautiful descent of 2200m in altitude from our bivouac at 3100m. We are on the west facing side of the great valley and the temperature is pleasantly cool.

    And what views! The daylight reveals many details and colors of the vegetation and landscape, from the high grass, cactuses, yucca and blooming trees to the remote summits, or, if we dare looking, the vertiginous slopes under the road.

    As we reach an altitude of 1700m we see down at the bottom the meandres of the big river, it's greenish and opaque color. The Marañon is the most powerful tributary of the Amazon. For a long time it was considered to be its main source.

    Before we reach the bottom of the valley, we enter an area of cultures dominated by groves of orange and mango trees, which keep the road sheltered from the heat. That did not last, alas. We found ourselves bathed in sweltering heat when we arrive by midday in the arid environment surrounding the Marañon.    Read more

  • AliceAlainPeruTraveler
    The barrier is intermittent
    Lemons, mangos and water included if you buy this land1Each house has a new wash block - toilet plus concrete moulded outside sinkYucca flower4Looking back at what we have climbed1The river is visible at the bottom , as well as the other side that we descended1Alain holding on tight1Its better to cross with the lorries when on the rock side1Almost there

    Out of the furnace into the …

    September 1, 2025 in Peru ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    As we cross the river Marañon in the base of the gorge we trade shady green mango groves for hot dry barren countryside.
    We pause in a small amount of shade to swap the tent back over to Alice for the climb. It is very hot but we are hoping that in a couple of hours we can climb enough to be out of the worst of it.

    Sometimes things just do not go to plan.

    A short distance up the road, Alice realises she has a flat. There is no shade in sight, so we pull over in full sun beside the road. The tyre is full of thorns. We carefully mark them to try and make sure nothing is missed and then put in a fresh inner tube. Job done. Uh oh. The front wheel is now flat too. By now things are getting really hot. Our phones have turned themselves off due to the heat- even when inside a bag. The tools and wheels are so hot that they hurt to hold. And this time we need to fix the inner tube too. By the time we finish Alain is dizzy and Alice is not feeling much better. This puncture-fest has landed on the hottest day of our trip, at the hottest time of day and with no shade in sight.

    We limp up the road a couple of km and finally find some shade behind a rock to eat a late lunch. After lunch, we are in the maximal heat of the day, still very low in the gorge and both feeling rubbish. Progress is very slow. Our objective of completing half of the 2200m climb today is not going to happen. We plod on.

    400m of climb further up we pause to filter some water from a fast flowing river channel. As we set off, its yet another puncture for Alice. We pull over and realise there is a possible spot for camping. Its time to call it a day.

    Then follows a hot grumpy evening with lots of prickles and puncture fixing. After a hot night, we wake early to try to beat the heat. Ha ha. Guess what. Alain has a slow puncture to amuse us over breakfast.

    We have 1650m of climb to complete today. Its already hot despite being early. The route is east facing and in full sun. Neither of us has slept well, we both have coughs and are snuffling, and we are not on form. It is a long long slow slog up to the top. By lunchtime we have climbed the first 1000m. The road is getting more entertaining- narrow and with an exposed drop. Its a little close for comfort when the occasional lorry passes us on this otherwise very quiet road.

    Finally we crawl to the pass - more by will power than anything else. The new scenery is much less dramatic. A simple descent and we are in the town of Celendin where we can rest and recover.    Read more

  • AliceAlainPeruTraveler
    1Our host Joanna. Time to say goodbye!
    1What is new in Celendin? A new model of tuk-tuk, more scooter-likeColonial influence in town centerMural of the cathedral, a long time agoThe cathedral and the plaza de Armas1Old ladies in traditional dress... at the market1At the market. Typical produce of Peru: Carambolas (star fruit) and black cornTraditional constructionMuralIt's part of the decoration of this little shopOn the road to Cajamarca1Very cute donkeys with traditional harnessThe prehispanic trail, with native Peruvians on it1This landscape could not be seen at home!Joanna's geese pay us a visit at breakfast11The big blue steel door!

    A moment of rest

    September 3, 2025 in Peru ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    Our traverse of the Marañon valley represents some 3600m of ascent. In addition, we have been cold, molten and bitten. We are utterly zonked and Alain is coughing seriously. So we settle at the Hotel Madrid, the best in Celendin, pay for two nights (110 sols/night, i.e. 27€) and conscientiously proceed to rest. Celendin is a sleepy city, so it's a perfect setting.

    We visit the market with amazing fruit, try some experimental dining out, and extract cough syrup from the pharmacy. We decide to stay a third night.

    Finally, we are on the road to Cajamarca, climbing solidly until early afternoon. On the descent, our hoped for accommodation options fail, one by one.
    It is late. We are left with a possible lead of iOverlander (an app) of a hotel/restaurant, 1km out of a little town along a tiny dirt road.

    We find the place. A huge shut blue steel gate "welcomes" us. We knock, bang, yell, no answer. A neighbour confirms this is the right place, so we repeat, no answer again. Finally another neighbour calls with his mobile phone and an old man appears through the wire fence telling us to wait. Many minutes later an old smiling peruvian lady opens up with a large key. Joanna, she says, and offers her hand to shake.

    This restaurant/hotel seems almost closed down and turned into a farm now. We can plant the tent and use water and basic facilities. This is a very safe place, evidently. We sleep well and wake up at dawn with geese, chickens, a rooster, and sheep... Adios and gracias, Joanna!    Read more

  • AliceAlainPeruTraveler
    1Ventanillos de Otuzco tombs
    Polloc sanctuaryAnd churchAfter Peter's third denial of Jesus, the rooster crows... Peter cries.1Jesus resurrectionInteresting make of the stainless glassA nice cycling day1Agricultural land around 3000m1Untidy but typical Peruvian developmentThe NecropolisCactus flower

    Modern mosaics and ancient tombs

    September 5, 2025 in Peru ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    Out first visit of the day is to the sanctuary in Polloc, very near to where we just spent the night. The church and the courtyard around the water pool are covered with bright modern mosaics which we enjoy. We guess that people come here to take the holy waters. Its all very new and was only finished in 2012. Its smartness stands in stark contrast to the surrounding tumbledown housing. We ponder the Peruvian priorities.

    The road into Cajamarca is not too arduous - and not especially entertaining. We divert slightly to visit the Ventanillas of Otuzco. These are a set of pre-inca cliff tombs, dating from around 2000 years ago. Each niche would have contained one body in a foetal position. A few are multichambered. Unlike several other monuments we have visited, this one seems popular with Peruvians and we have company.

    It is then a few bumpy but flat km into the city of Cajamarca    Read more

  • AliceAlainPeruTraveler
    Cajamarca is the place where the Inca emperor was defeated, by strength and trickery
    The ransom roomDrainage channelOther mysterious holes.2Extremely precisely assembled rocks (look at the lintel)Peeking inside the chamber1Bélen churchJesus carrying the crossHe had a really hard dayBaroque insideInside the old hospital buildingProbably better be nice to this fellow1Plazza de ArmasThe condor, the jaguar a, the snake, symbols of air/heavens, earth/life, water/deathThe Incas (on the right) invading the locals(on the left)Battle of spaniards on horses with swords, and less well armed Incas

    Cajamarca

    September 5, 2025 in Peru ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    Here at 2750 m altitude, we enter the heart of Peruvian history. This is the place where Spanish conquistador Pizzaro defeated and captured the Inca emperor Atahualpa, tricked him of a huge ransom of hundreds of tons of gold and silver, and then executed him anyway. (More details can be found in e.g. wikipedia at "Cajamarca", or "ransom chamber"). Mining for gold and other heavy metals is still one of the area's main sources of revenue.

    Cajamarca (Kashamarka in quechua language), was populated for more than 2000 years before it was conquered by the Incas in 1463 and added to the Inca empire. The hold of the Incas on this region seems to have been a bit weak, something the Spaniards were well informed of.

    We spend our first afternoon visiting the ransom chamber, a remarkable Inca building, in which Atahualpa was confined and the ransom delivered. With the same ticket we visit the church of Belén (Nuestra Señora de la Piedad) and a nice museum set up inside the old Spanish hospital, with pre-Inca artefacts. We discover a great mural fresco in town relating the prehispanic history!

    We also organise an English-speaking guide for tomorrow's visit of a fabulous site in the mountains...    Read more

  • AliceAlainPeruTraveler
    1Symbolic right angle bends built into the 3000 year old canal
    Rock carvings in small cave temple1Exiting a steep narrow tunnel up through the rocks1Rock formations at CumbemayoOur guide explaining that these carvings depict a field irrigation mapThere are a lot of sales people around the site. This lady is selling medicinal herbsThe sacred rocks1The aqueductThe canal begins in a long basin behind this stoneThe carved sacrificial rock beside the canalThe water/snail symbol carved on the round stone1It is beautifully carved1Leaving the site

    Pre-inca canals

    September 6, 2025 in Peru ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

    Our guidebook introduces the site of Cumbemayo as “an astounding feat of pre-inca engineering” with “aqueducts that zigzag over 9km for a purpose that is unclear”. Its a long climb to get there (as is most of Peru) - so we very sensibly decide that joining a tour will be a good plan. This has the benefit that we have a guide and learn about the context of the site.

    According to our guide, the mountain, which is covered in striking rock formations, was considered a sacred place. There are rock carvings, caves, temples and sacrificial altar. There is also an narrow aqueduct (60cm wide) built around 3000 years ago which managed to take water over a complex route (including over the water divide between the pacific and atlantic) and then down into Cajamarca. As Cajamarca has abundant water supplies, the explanation is that the aqueduct brought sacred water down for spiritual purposes.

    The intriguing right angle bends that are carefully built into the canal are presumed to have symbolic meaning - perhaps denoting, according to our guide, the three levels of underworld, living world and heavens.    Read more

  • AliceAlainPeruTraveler
    2This kind lady gave us 2 fruit- like lemons but with no kick
    1Dinner at the local busy rotisserieView from our hotel in San Marcos2Some bigger mountains are now in view1Impressive descent into CajabambaPolitical slogans in every villageMining is very important for Peru. The mines are hugePlaza de Armas Cajabamba11Laguna Sausacocha ... and a short flat cycling respite3The whole mountain is a multistory (I counted 25 plus levels) gold mine. Spot the lorries for scale.1Childrens parade in HuamachucoEvening light on the plaza de Armas, Huamachuco1We still have not seen a llama!2Banana symphony1Rush at the market for a delicious-smelling hot meal1We enter an little shop where these delicious shashliks are served. Hmm. Our best dinner!

    Up down up up down

    September 7, 2025 in Peru ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    We are aiming south in the direction of the Cordillera Blanca but still have quite some way to go. Our next leg follows the main road - it is not quiet as there are some occasional big lorries, but its not too bad either. Every day we have several big climbs and descents. 400m up, 600m down plus “small” extras to cross rivers. Its a lot of climbing each day (1300m) but without the reward of conquering a satisfying high pass. Even over 3000m the land is farmed and there are houses and villages everywhere.

    There are major towns along the route that neatly divide the route. In this sort of territory, we prefer to stay in hotels when they are available- especially as they are inexpensive. First night San Marcos with an extremely lively and noisy Sunday market. Next, Cajabamba, surprises us with a touristy feel and quality shops. And finally and wearily, into Huamachuco at 3200m where we will rest and resupply before heading higher and wilder.    Read more

  • AliceAlainPeruTraveler
    The impressive first towers (partly rebuilt)
    Marcahuamachuco dominates the surroundings. Here the main valley1Construction of an angle with massive stonesAlain arrives at the first siteA side building showing the original stoneworkThe monumentale door of the fifth archeological siteMassive and careful construction of the doorReconstitution of a possible use of the round structuresQuite extraordinary site...1The double round structure, with supports between the two walls, is extremely solidInside of one of the round structures, further constructions are lined up on the inner wallThe round structures are right on top of the cliff!

    Marcahuamachuco

    Sep 10–11, 2025 in Peru ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    Above the little town of Huamachuco, between 3500 and 3600m, lies this archeological site of Pre-Incan ruins, another one that has been referred to by archaeologists as "Machu Picchu of the North" :-). The constructions took place from 500 BC to 1000AD. The purpose probably varied over time, defensive, residential or ceremonial. The Inca conquered it, then the Spanish looted it to eliminate idolatry.

    The site dominates several steep surrounding valleys. We arrive first at four impressive towers, which were last used as tombs for important people. The quality of the stone work is very interesting, as can be seen from the older buildings that have been preserved.

    At that point we meet a guide/guard who tells Alain that we should carefully follow the visit trail marked by ropes. Of course the trail is marked by stones, and what do you do when there are no ropes? We wander happily to the next building, a huge, long palace, separated inside by a mysterious longitudinal wall. These unrestored buildings are very interesting, but our visit is interrupted by a loud and angry whistle blow! The guard explains with a smile that we can't go there, and Alain agrees, with a smile, to follow both stones and ropes.

    After another rectangular palace with a great door, and then a huge wall, we finish by visiting three very curious round structures set right at the edge of the cliff, and of spectacular design. Recent research suggests that, at least at some time, these were family residences with the circular walls affording protection against the wind. . The living space was between the two external walls and was 3 or 4 stories high and there is a large central courtyard with a well. The surrounding land was grazed by Llamas. There are other theories and perhaps more than one answer. The mystery is fascinating    Read more

  • AliceAlainPeruTraveler
    A wonderful rainbow over laguna Huangagocha
    Goodbye Huamachuco!7th day adventism is very common hereAgricultural landscape1Large open cast mines continue to be a feature of the landscape.Our route for tomorrow1Huffing and puffing and...1smiling!Laguna Huangagocha!1complete change of palette when the sun comes out!1Set up for the nightOur bikes snuggle down too

    Aiming higher: Laguna Huangagocha

    September 12, 2025 in Peru ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    From Huamochuco we plan to head higher and wilder. The route will take us over 4300m. We are still working on our altitude acclimatisation, which limits how much we can increment our night time altitude. As we have spent quite a lot of nights now between 3000 and 3200m and this will be a relatively short day, we decide to push the limits just a little and aim at Laguna Huangagocha at 3850m. It allows a potentially rather nice campsite, and makes the following tough and high day a little more feasible.

    After a steep climb out of Huamachuco, we have an easy 10km downhill on tarmac and then turn off onto a dirt road, its rough and we are climbing steadily. Many roads in the mountains in Peru are there courtesy of the mining traffic. So, we politely stand to one side, whilst a convoy of around 15 heavily laden trucks pass, going not all that much faster than us. We time our breathing to avoid the worst of the dust.

    We turn off the “main” dirt road, onto a much steeper and bumpier one and with some huff and puff arrive at the lake. Its the first time we have been really away from towns and villages for a night - and it is lovely.

    We are there in good time, so can take it easy enjoying a wonderful rainbow before turning in early. At this altitude its chilly once the sun has gone.    Read more

  • AliceAlainPeruTraveler
    We are more or less contouring today... but have over 900m of climbing to do, all on dirt
    1After all, we prefer to get wet feet than risk thisAnkle deep1Concentration14000m highlandsAnother mining road ( not ours)Up down, round and over1View over the Marañon basinYet another huge open cast mine11And finally the long awaited Llama!1Hello llamas!!It looks flat but its really hard work1Can we make it?Llamas or maybe Alpacas, shaved1Alpaca? flockAnd finally time to descend1Bivouac at 4050m.

    Llamas at 4100m !

    September 13, 2025 in Peru ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

    The network of roads in Peru is organised as the head of a rake with a limited number of roads starting from the big coastal highway up the mountains. Traffic inland parallel to the coast (as we are trying to do) can be along a valley, or require crossing the lay of the land with big deep valleys, and then dirt roads higher up. Today we are riding high.

    It's grey on our lovely laguna as we leave. We need to cross its outflow either through a deepish ford or across a narrow high and extremely decrepit concrete “plank”. Hmmm. Alice leads the way and takes her shoes off to cross the ford which after all is not so deep.

    The rest of the day has wonderful views - but is very tiring, with consecutive ups and downs. The altitude record is broken several times 4000, 4150, 4240, and finally 4300m! We are probably acclimated by now :-).

    At around 4100m, big news of the day.
    WE FINALLY SEE LLAMAS!!! First a couple, later a little group, finally a whole group of white ones that have been shaved -- but maybe those are Alpacas? On this piece of good news, we take a brand-new road down an engaging valley and bivouac near the torrent.    Read more

  • AliceAlainPeruTraveler
    Sunset from our eagle's nest
    Looking back at our route11Back in warmer climatePicking up supplies on a mountain villagePrehispanic figure in CochamarcaMollepata1Landslides and rockfalls are everywhere1The up is for tomorrow1Perched on a ledge (the old road), our eagle's nest

    Descending from the heights

    September 14, 2025 in Peru ⋅ ⛅ 9 °C

    From our high cold and beautiful campsite at over 4000m we can only descend. The descent is slow. The gravel road is difficult and although relatively new, is already much eroded in places.
    We reach the “main” road - which looks about the same as the previous more minor roads and soon roll into the mountain village of Mollepata which has a wonderful view over the mountains and valley. We rest a while on a shady bench (quite a rarity) and admire the view.
    Then its some more descent. The road now varies between 2-lane smooth tarmac and single-lane dirt through the landslides that are on every hairpin bend. The concept of landslides enters an entirely new dimension on these roads snaking through mountainous piles of rubble. Its a bit like trying to build a road through an enourmous sand castle.

    The next climb will be a long one and is reserved for tomorrow, so we will take it gently today and camp low down ready for the climb. One of our cycling apps suggests a wild camping spot which is perched on a ledge above the valley - an abandoned part of the old road. Its an eagles’s neat, hidden and secluded with wonderful views.    Read more

  • AliceAlainPeruTraveler
    Th upstream section of the Rio Tablachaca gorge, a dusty landslide happening
    Start by crossing the Tablachaca riverA big landslide completely hides the tarmac1Just completed this very steep and slippery piece of dirt road.1Baby landslides... there is more than one landslides per segment of the climb!Yes, there was a big drop at that hairpin. PfffIf the road has collapsed a few warning stones are placedDeep cut hairpin1Part of yesterdays descent. Our eagle's nest campsite is bottom left.1Todays climb and yesterday's descent1The steep short-cut (huff, huff, puff)Going slowly and breathing strongWatch out for yet more landslides1Our Hospedaje (Inn), steep street but great scenery!Pallasca is very very steep1And has wonderful views

    Hairpins to Pallasca

    September 15, 2025 in Peru ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

    Night has set on our little eagle's nest; from the tent we can feel the traffic on the other side of the valley, brake noises and gear shifts, occasionally interspaced with bright lights shining on us; more alarmingly, rock sliding noises of various intensities. Coming out of the tent, we see in the dark a few trucks or buses, lit with green, red, white lights, slowly moving from one hairpin to another. This is the preview of our road tomorrow.

    We start by crossing the Tablachaca river, still a clean mountain torrent here. We collect and filter a couple liters of water from it. Then start the climb. The double lane road itself is well graded, but there are many landslides at just about every hairpin or little straight segment. These landslides create very steep (20-25%) slippery sections for us to pass over. At some point the route is diverted to an older, even steeper road. This is a roadworks diversion that was not there overnight... (maybe an overnight landslide? ). The old road is harrowing, we can barely climb. The stunning views provide an excuse to take photo stops... and to breathe ourselves back to life.

    Finally we make it to Pallasca, where we are welcomed by steep streets and a charming little town. A very nice host lady provides beds for the night and the use of her washing machine for our disgustingly dusty clothes.    Read more

  • AliceAlainPeruTraveler
    The bottom of the canyon comes into view
    Dust clouds behind the lorries1Mineral salts1Steep and deep in dust... and we thought it was downhillThis is the canyon we are trying to descend1This is our roadYou can tell there are many minerals here1Finally some tarmacWe are pedaling through a lot of rubbleThis would be a good place for finding gold...Panning for gold. There are several scruffy men down the river looking for gold in the sediments111Broken Rohloff cable! What is a woman to do?1Packing up after a night in the canyon

    The Tablachaca canyon

    September 16, 2025 in Peru ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    “Here is Edward Bear, coming downstairs now, bump, bump, bump, on the back of his head, behind Christopher Robin. It is, as far as he knows, the only way of coming downstairs, but sometimes he feels that there really is another way, if only he could stop bumping for a moment and think of it.”

    Its a long way down into the Tablachaca canyon, and its a rough bumpy dusty dirty road. After only a few km, and a couple of trucks and buses, our clean clothes are yet again thick with dust that wont shake out. Not to mention the small matter of our airways. Plus there are some unexpected very steep and dusty uphill sections which we struggle with.

    However, soon the delight of the enormous canyon below us takes hold. With the bumps and camera stops, progress is slow but we are enthralled. Poor Alain takes a tumble and comes out with grazes and bruises and even more dust. He looks like he has just emerged from a mine.

    We admire the splendid canyon colours and ponder how we have never heard of this amazing canyon before. Surely it is not a bad second to the Grand Canyon!

    We are pleasantly surprised when we hit the canyon bottom and find (intermittent) tarmac. The bumping reduces, speed increases… and then suddenly Alice feels an ominous clunk. Her gear cable has broken- so no more changing gear. Its a new fancy system that we have not fixed before, and we have no wifi. We manage to extract the broken cable but can’t figure how to thread the spare cable back in. We decide to carry on- luckily its mainly downhill.

    However time is passing and we need to find a place for the night. Alain spots the old road by a tributary. The location between canyon walls is impressive, although the site is not so easy for camping. First, we are camped on dirt so its a challenge to keep things clean. Then, although near the river, access to water that is clean enough to filter is difficult. Finally, we are a bit more visible from the road than is ideal. Still gazing up the steep sides and seeing the stars above has a certain magic.    Read more

  • AliceAlainPeruTraveler
    Rolling down to Chuquicara
    Beautiful morning!Who might have lived here?1Happy photographA papaya...1Nice and shady, also breathtakingAn incredibly narrow cañon!Approaching Chuquicara the valley widensThe Santa river, we are in a new cañon!A factory in the middle of this desert?Greater mountains are in sight2An immense surfing wave of stone...A tight gorge again!A coal mineThe rapid noise is deafeningThis tunnel is a welcome shade1Our tent place. The sun sets very early!

    One cañon down, one cañon up

    September 17, 2025 in Peru ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    Mission one this morning, send a help message to UK mechanic Russ, asking for Rohloff advice, before it is the end of working day in England. This requires speeding downhill 25km to a place with a phone network. Difficult not to go slow or stop, the descent is really extraordinary in the early morning!

    Chuquicara (500m) is reached at 9:30am. This crossroad (and cross-cañon) town is a stopping point for truckers. We replenish our reserves with fruit, tomatoes, avocado, etc. The explanation from Russ comes back rapidly. The slow process of threading, understanding, trying, erring and trying again, and of finding a cable cutter, finishes two hours later. Hurray! We celebrate with ice-cream at the petrol station.

    Next step is another cañon up to the Cordillera Blanca, we are in a great mood. While the Tablachaca cañon was host to gold miners, the cañon of the -- larger -- Santa river is surprisingly the scene of coal mining. The valley is nonetheless spectacular with amazing narrows and rapids, shifting vegetation and lighting. After 35km (and 500m vertically) of climb we find a remarkable place to pitch the tent: a nice flat space below the road but invisible from it; just able to reach the river but unreachable by it; facing a several hundred meters vertical face on which the passing vehicles project shadows and light; from which we see a very small portion of the sky.    Read more

  • AliceAlainPeruTraveler
    1There are many many many tunnels
    2And a cute waterfallAnother donkey that has got loose (with rope dangling)A multitude of coloursThe landscape is relatively barren1Spot the cyclist for a sense of scale1As we come higher, vegetation developsMorning lightHigh mountains start to appearPlease don't lean over any furtherSee that tunnel, we managed to stay on the roadThese are actually part of a hydroelectric infrastructureWe get glimpses of snow on the Cordillera Blanca mountainsGrowing "snow" on top and "coal plants" at the bottom. We have not figured it out...

    Canyoning on

    September 18, 2025 in Peru ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    From our dusty perch above the river we have another day of climbing dusty canyons. It is impossible to escape the dust. Taste the dust, smell the dust, cough the dust, eat the dust. Our hands are black when we stop. The road sides are covered in dust. No choice but to live with it.

    We have started early to help with the heat. Whilst we wind the rest of the narrow section of the gorge we are in and out of tunnels and shaded. Once the gorge widens it is hot. 🥵 and barren. We climb steadily past several coal mines that look rather derelict but seem to be operational. There is an air of poverty here and the miners housing is often very basic and shabby.

    We find a simple hotel in a small village that has a hydroelectric power station at one end and a coal mine at the other end. Then it’s off again in the morning for the next set of tunnels in the Canyon de Pato, another massively deep and narrow gorge that forms the boundary between the Cordillera Blanca and the Cordillera Negra. The road clings to a cliff face with unprotected vertical (and vertiginous) drops to the river below, and the mountains tower above.

    It appears that we are now on a more frequented route. A québécois cyclist whose bike we had seen in last night’s hotel arrives and we chat a while, then we meet a french couple who are descending.

    Its not long before we are through and out of the gorge, and pedalling up and into Caraz. We have tiny glimpses of the Cordillera Blanca with snowy peaks, though mostly it is hidden by the clouds. This will be the next challenge of our adventure.    Read more

  • AliceAlainPeruTraveler
    The market just below our bedroom window
    At 6am its already started. Spot the pig on a tricycleHaving coffee in Caraz at 6:27, an optical illusion of the sun and a sharp mountain in sight!From the road we start seeing white peaks on our leftBecoming serious mountains! Huascarán on the rightStill life with cactus, narrow gorge and white peaksMarching bandFrom our accommodation in Shilla. Rain is about to pelt it downThis tree, new to us, is very common as public decoration in PeruThe grocery shop, the foot of the glaciers and the threatening sky

    From Caraz to Shilla

    September 21, 2025 in Peru ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    Our plan is a 7-day tour of the Huscarán, the highest (6768m) mountain in Peru, and one of the highest in the Andes. It's time to see the snow up close. In so doing we have several high passes to cross, some of questionable feasibility. Just thinking of it, Alain’s back pain and leg sores protest.

    Adding to the uncertainty, the shoulder rainy season has now started - but with an unseasonal massive 2-hour downpour, which flooded out the market below our hotel room.

    The big climb is over 2000m (effectively 2828m with ups and down) - so we have decided to split it into three parts of 1100, 900, and 820 m. From Caraz, we start parallel to the Cordillera Blanca, and soon begin to see white summits on the horizon, shining in the morning sun after last night's deluge. The road is quite busy, some sunday activities (e.g. a marching band in the middle of the road) making it interesting. The real climb starts after the town of Chuaraz, animated and clogged up by the sunday market. Out of Chuaraz, numerous dogs (with online bite warnings) give us an opportunity to rehearse our dog-skills (go slow, look at them, shhht them and if all else fails hide behind your bike and pretend to throw stones at them); in fact all goes well.

    Shilla, our first stage, is another very steep little town. The only listed accommodation is the absolute pits, (PM for details) but we manage good shopping and good dinner. We also find out -- too late -- that there are other accommodation options that could easily have been much better.    Read more

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