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    🇵🇪 Palca, Peru
    AliceAlainPeruViajero
    Village kids "helping" Alain with the water filter
    1Morning light on Laguna de PatónLeaving our lakeside camping spot1Morning reflections and a rare blue skyGetting higher, colder and muddierMine and processing plant beneath our passRead that sign (too tired to climb up to it). 4737mComplete change of scenery - back to open rolling plateauThe plateau is around 4000mA solid chunk of mountainFinally we find an area where Alpacas are raised and can be seen in large groups.Showers threaten for much of the dayNo shortage of AlpacaBetween showers we can see the snowy chain of Santa Rosa (5706m)It's hailing/snowing and the landscape is turning whiteBumping on down. This journey is largely unpavedArrived at Uchumarca (3943m). The village kids welcome us and help with the tent!Water chore, so entertaining!1Off go the kids with Alain - to do a little shopping.Our tent, sheltered for the night of rain. Water filter in action

    The kids of Uchumarca

    12 de octubre, Perú ⋅ ☁️ 5 °C

    The day begins with beautiful light over laguna de Patón but quickly becomes gray and windy as we make our way through a complicated multi-choice multi-hairpin unpaved/cobbled wet and slippery road in company of huge mining trucks. When we emerge, at 4737m, we are physically tired and nervously exhausted. A large and peaceful plain is next, where a large population of Alpaca and Llama grazes happily, interspaced with the classics, sheep and cows.

    After a few more hours we arrive in Uchumarca, welcomed by a bunch of children all curious to know who we are! They guide us to a shelter near the (adventist) church, where we can praise our tent for the night. Both the kids and us seem thrilled with each other's company!    Leer más

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  • AliceAlainPeruViajero
    Our traditional hotel, with washing lines beneath the eaves
    OyonHeading up from OyonView from the tent

    Leaving the Great Divide

    10 de octubre, Perú ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    We have been on the move for more than a week so its time for a rest day. Actually its not a rest day (except for our legs) - its a catchup day. There are punctures to fix, washing grubby clothes, drying tent and sleeping bag, cleaning our pans and mats. Then planning our route, attending to admin, catching up on penguins. We need food and dinner and a moment to catch up with friends and family. Its a full day.

    We are at 3600m so we are wearing plenty of warm layers inside or out. Unless the sun shines - when suddenly it lovely and warm. This is a peculiarly of this altitude in Peru. Pedalling in sunshine and we are hot in short and t-shirt. Once the sun goes, we need fleeces, gloves and thick socks.

    We are staying in a small and modest traditional hotel that is often visited by cyclists like us. Like most hotels there is no heating or hot water except in the shower (and its a thumbs up if its hot). I ask if its possible to wash clothes. Yes, she says and points at a low concrete outdoor sink with one (cold) tap. Do you have a washing machine we can use? No, we don’t have one. I look at the lines and lines of drying sheets in the courtyard, rather humbled. Running a hotel at 3600m with only hand washing…

    Our next day is to be a short one. We are now leaving the Peru Great Divide route and heading for the central highlands. For this we need to cross the spine of the Andes heading east. The next pass is too high for a single leg and there are a lot of mines near the top which probably don’t make for good wild camping. So we will have a half day and camp beside a lake, laguna de Patón, that is recommended by other travellers. The road is a bit rough - wide but alternating between concrete plates and muddy gravel. Its grey and then raining and we are sharing the route some heavy duty traffic. Despite the rest day, neither of us are feeling on form and are glad that its a relatively short day today.    Leer más

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  • AliceAlainPeruViajero
    !!!! such wonderful colours
    Its a damp grey start to the dayWarm colours, chilly snowThe mines we must climb throughThis is a day for the braveWater is source of lifeLuckily we do not follow the track through the snow... but we do share the roadNearly thereMt Pishtac 5080mYou have arrived at Punta Chanca 4850m!Yes!Old cairns marking the pass.And now the descent, it obviously snowed last nightVicuñasHuge mountains all aroundLava-generated sculptureWe enter a long and profound U-shaped valleyWe are graced with a rare sunny afternoonEntering the gorges leading to Oyon

    Over to Oyon

    9 de octubre, Perú ⋅ ⛅ 8 °C

    The tent is well hidden in the middle of a cow and sheep pasture, next to a raging torrent smelling rather like the field. It's high (4350m), windy, rainy and cold... and altogether beautiful! The morning is grey and drizzly - we push our bikes through the mud, back to the road, with the feeling that this day will be one for the brave.

    The climb to the pass at 4850m is indeed another world, surrounded by snow, lakes and mining trucks who consider that *they* are working. The colors of the nearby peaks probably reflect the reason why mining here is interesting.

    The arrival to the pass, in snow world, is unforgettable, but very soon we turn to the other side, more sunny and colored. A jumping group of Vicuñas catches our eye (look closely at the video, low centre, in full screen). Vicuñas are a wild endagered relative of the Alpaca. A magic volcanic world welcomes us, the descent is a total pleasure.

    Arriving in the Oyon area, we are welcomed by a gentle Peruvian professor of English who wants to practice a few minutes. It's a short, wonderful, and perfectly unexpected encounter.    Leer más

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  • AliceAlainPeruViajero
    Looking back down on CajatamboWe get close to AlpacaOnce again, open grass plains above 4000mAnd here are the LlamasNeat rolled up tailGolden soil... Peru is so rich in diverse mineralsWe made it to todays pass (of course)This is where we will camp (down by the river) ready for tomorrows climb

    Alpacca and Llama

    8 de octubre, Perú ⋅ ☁️ 9 °C

    Day 3 of our climb. Today we will reach the first pass at 4540m. Its just a bit too much for us to reach the highest pass - the last bits of climb at these altitudes are not to be underestimated. Instead we will camp by the river between the passes giving us a good start for the next day.

    We make an extra early start. There are warnings of heavy rain and strong winds. Most days it starts fine and ends up wet - so we hope to make the best of the day and beat the worst of it.

    There is a good climb ahead and we are relieved to be on tarmac and not dirt. We grind up hairpin after hairpin and then reach the high pastures. It seems we will have cute company today. First a herd of well dressed Alpacca, then further up several groups of Llama. 🦙🦙 🦙🦙. No more “where are all the llamas?” questions from Alain.

    Not much further now. Yes, we made it. All we need to do is descend and get the tent up before it rains.    Leer más

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  • AliceAlainPeruViajero
    A very precarious bridge that is still being used
    The bridge is very warped: a pillar has been dislodged by a floodA chance to fill our bottles. The river water is too muddy to filterThe road somehow finds its way between the walls of the cañon...and finally makes it to a more open confluenceBrightly coloured birdsSome giant in love carved a heart on the cliffMules and donkeys are traditional transport in the mountains...Bicycles are quite rare in comparison. Almost there, AlainThe thermal baths with the local donkeys (view from tent)Across the valley, many hairpins could take us to the most remote placesSetting off the next morning. We briefy see the higher peaks before the usual clouding overA Tarantula (dead)The bridge supports could happily swallow a bicycle and riderJust look at the wonderful hats. Peruvian ladies dress well.Looking back. The thermal baths are way belowLittle orchard in the middle of the cliffsNow out of the canyon, and back to fieldsHow to build a fence in Peru

    Warm moments and thermal baths.

    5 de octubre, Perú ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

    It lovely and warm at the bottom of the canyon. We are back to 1500m of altitude! In fact, its a bit hot for sleeping. We have another problem - the cactii. Despite carefully checking our tyres we have both got punctures. Many of them slow punctures. We fix the most serious one. But it will be several days before we have found all the others - some extra morning pumping exercises for us both!

    We have four days of climbing ahead and we are not in a rush. We descend just a little more and then cross a river to head up the next valley. The bridge is extremely precarious and lop-sided and in need of repair - luckily there is almost no traffic - but it looks like the occasional minibus (local transport) is still using it.

    Today we climb to some natural hot baths where we are allowed to camp nearby. For just over a euro we can access a private bath (hot tub sized) and soak in fabulously warm water. More of a problem is to find any cold (drinking) water- so instead of our normal filtering routine, we resort to buying bottled water.

    Unfortunately Alain is unwell in the night so we have an enforced but much needed rest day. Then its a good day of climbing up to the mountain town of Cajatambo at 3400m. Back to chilly hotels and nights once more.    Leer más

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  • AliceAlainPeruViajero
    1Special award for the best caption to describe this canyon dweller
    Terraced fields high in the mountainsMorning clouds quickly formA last glance at the great YerupajàOn the road to CajamarquillaCajamarquilla villageHere comes the canyonThe road is steep and scary without protectionIts a long long way downWavy roads make me smileMany colors of rock...Now we can see the bottomSeveral species of cactiiTeam work on Cañon roadNot clear who has more vertigo: the photographer or his subject?Another splendid cactus fruitRipples of colourCamped with the cactii

    Layers of cake

    4–7 oct., Perú ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    Alice is starting to think of Peru as a strange scuplted layer cake. On the very top are rugged peaks and glaciers. Beneath that at about 4000m plus there is high wild plateau grassland with livestock grazing and isolated farms. Cows, sheep, horses, llama and alpaccca. Next comes the most populated portion and the more productive agricultural land. At the very bottom are deep steep-sided canyons.

    From Pacocha, we are climbing and contouring once more around the steep terraced slopes that are perched high above the vertiginous canyon.

    Then begins the descent. More than 2000m of it. First down through several more villages. We pause for lunch in the centre of Llippa. As we leave we are suddenly on the rim of another huge canyon. Its thrilling but also a bit daunting. Once we reach the bottom we will have 4 days and 3600m of climbing to get back out. Still, its a marvellous descent with irresistible stops for photos of multicoloured rocks, hairpins and cactii.    Leer más

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  • AliceAlainPeruViajero
    Breakfast with the pigs
    Camped out of the rain in the village "hall"Before dawn. Sheep in pen, dog watches overMorning light. Hello sheep! Look at that view...The Yerupajá (6635m), second highest peak in Peru, is briefly visible.Abandoned mud brick buildingsThis is where the villagers who helped us liveMeli and Alain. Opposite them is the fantastic view in the other photosAdios Pacocha!

    Pacocha

    4 de octubre, Perú ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    This is a story of a cold and wet drama finishing as a meeting with marvelous people.

    It rains hard now, the day was long, our legs tired and our stomach starting to growl. Where can we pitch the tent? The fields are slanted, filled with thorny bushes and stones. It's uphill. Muddy hairpin after slippery hairpin we are approaching the little hamlet of Pacocha where we are hoping to find somewhere flat.

    Here it is, a set of old mud-brick buildings, some of them with a roof. No sign of a soul. In the middle a new construction, bright yellow, with a big porch and a loggia. Maybe we can try there? As we go explore, we notice someone in the next old house. Eye contact; and an older women comes to see who could be out in this rain visiting the new village house?

    Meli and her younger friend come to us, and in answer to our question "can we pitch our tent?" they invite us to install ourselves in the village meeting room. They move the chairs and desk around, and later admire the construction of an Hilleberg tent on a concrete slab -- and there we spend a happy night.

    We are awoken, well before our 5:45 alarm, by life in Pacocha! As we prepare, then enjoy, our breakfast, the whole village passes in front of us: sheep, dogs, pigs, piglets, chickens and finally, the cows. Meli comes several times to enjoy the sunrise, introducing us to the beautiful scene of the Yerupajá and its three summits. She clearly loves this location and we somehow manage to exchange very profound emotions about life.

    We see a total of 6-7 folks in the village, two older women, two middle-aged ones, one man and a young woman, maybe more, but no children. They are all happy to see us, and they have a lot to do. (This morning they are arranging thorns to form a chicken fence).

    Adios, little village! We love you! How long will you survive?    Leer más

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  • AliceAlainPeruViajero
    Contouring steep slopes in and out of cloud
    Rocky outcropsCrossing high plateau with isolated walled farmsOur intrepid team memberAnd the otherThe steep slopes are terraced, the high mountains in the cloudApproaching a more cultivated and groomed villageToday water is not missing!Glimpses of what we are missing

    Clinging to the heights

    3 de octubre, Perú ⋅ ☁️ 8 °C

    Our route today begins by crossing a high remote grassland plateau with occasional farms and rocky outcrops. It then descends slowly, contouring around steep slopes above even steeper V-shaped gorges below. Its all on dirt and gravel. We pass occasional high remote mud-brick villages with no other access than our road. Its a moody day with plenty of cloud and odd showers, so we see none of the high mountains and sometimes just the cloud.

    The track is virtually empty so its a strange isolated high position. Suspended above the great descents below. We range between 4200 and 3000m. The terrain is so steep that its non-trivial to find a place to stop for the night. We decide to climb to the next tiny village and take our chance there. As we climb the last 200m, it starts to pour.    Leer más

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  • AliceAlainPeruViajero
    Agriculture in the middle Andies
    Starting bright and earlyIn the steep valley sides, many dry walls keep cattle from getting lost, and hold the groundTerraced fields on steep mid slopesWe changed valley, and exposure. Dryer land prevails, stone walls remain.Lots of Eucalyptus were imported during XIXth centurySnowy summits re-appear as we climb back upBack on high grass plains above 4000mLaguna Conococha, the source of the Santa riverConacocha

    From Pachapaqui to Conococha

    1 de octubre, Perú ⋅ ☁️ 5 °C

    After a rather cold night in Pachapaqui (3950m) we wake up to optimistic sunshine and the view over the junction of two mining valleys. As we continue the descent, a beautiful, typical Peruvian scenery with terraced agriculture quickly appears on the other side. Maybe more than 1000m of altitude is covered by a mosaic of stone walls.

    Around 3500m, we turn off uphill to anther valley, and the climate becomes much dryer, although terraces are still there. Reaching the plateau (4200m), a new set of mountains appear. Then a wide basin and the Laguna Conococha; this is the source of the Santa river, which we have followed since our September 17 "One cañon down..." episode (that seems very long ago!).

    The little crossroad town of Conococha sits a good 100m above the Laguna. It feels cold and windy, especially as we end up waiting a couple of hours for the room keys :-(.

    In this town we discover (one of) the origins of the gunshot noises that have surprised us on several occasions this trip. From our bedroom we hear a loud bang... and go to the window to see, in the field under us, a small group (two men, two women) working hard and exuberantly... on the butchering of a freshly gun-slaughtered pig.

    Tomorrow we will begin a leg of a cycle route called the Peru Great Divide which tries to follow the high Andes north to south.    Leer más

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  • AliceAlainPeruViajero
    Higher than the Mont Blanc - with glaciers behind
    Snow/hail has fallen overnight, cold surprise when coming out of the tent!Breakfast at 4600m with fresh snow on the mountains and next to the coffeeThe Pastouri Glacier which has hugely retreatedInto the wildernessWe are headed up here (and its steep)Look! Another glacierThe stream is coloured pinkIts absolutely deserted.Our road contours upwards across the hill above and aheadAlice's bike Constance at 4850m with glacier behindThis time we made it higher than the Mont BlancRocks, ridges, everythingSo many huge mountainsWe pass a huge range of geologiesHeading up into the cloudOut the other side... sunshine

    Higher than the Mont Blanc

    1 de octubre, Perú ⋅ ☁️ -1 °C

    It has snowed/hailed in the night and we have a white hexagon surrounding our tent in the morning and fresh snow on the slopes across the valley.

    If we can complete our itinerary today we will have several stretches that are higher than the Mont Blanc (4807m) with our highest pass at 4880m. Alain once more takes the tent to help Alice. We make an early start and we take it very slowly.

    Its very strange pedalling at altitude. For Alice it is not at all as expected - there is just no power or acceleration available when pedalling despite being in bottom gear. It takes almost twice as long to go anywhere. There is a lot of dizziness/wobbliness. Even small things feel shockingly hard work and overdoing it is a very bad plan. But taking it really really slowly, one can get by.

    First leg of the day is to climb past the Pastouri glacier (a tourist destination). It is very much in recession and we are more impressed by the glaciers on the opposite side of the road. We pass over a small col and are completely on our own, mountains all around, glaciers on the huger mountains. The scenery is phenomenal. Of course at this altitude it is also rather nippy. We have two more passes to reach, each a little higher than the one before.

    We take a quick picnic just before the final col in a brief moment of sunshine, then round the mountain and head into the cloud. The rock is black and it is sleeting as we descend in black and white to the col on the main road. Then down in the cloud and rain until we emerge into a beautiful valley and sunshine. Here at 3950m we find a small basic and very chilly room for the night. Peru does not have heating anywhere as far as we can see.    Leer más

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  • AliceAlainPeruViajero
    Puya Raimondii, the Queens of the Andes
    We first follow the Santa river uphill, with striking orange deposits from a tributary.Above 4000m again (on corrugated dirt...)A laguna amongst the mountainsAnother, accessible, thatch and enclosure hamletWe can see the roof construction up closeAnother laguna with hot but poisonous watersOur first sighting of Puya Raimondii. Those with tall flower stems are now dead.This young Puya Raimondi has only trunk and leaves and many years to live before bloomA hillside covered with Puya RaimondiiThese horses might have the front feet tied up to teach them to jumpHairpins on the way to the wallpaintingsDry stone walls serving as cattle enclosuresWallpaintings form 200 to 600 CEAncient cartoon?1We are approaching the world of snow and glaciersTuco peak, with a last ray of sunshineBivouac at 4600m, facing the Tuco peak 5479m

    The Queens of the Andes

    30 de septiembre, Perú ⋅ ☁️ 11 °C

    After five days of rest and doctors, we are back to the summits! From Huaraz the main road is full of speed bumps, trucks, cars, pot-holes and construction - not too enthralling, except for the changing colors of the Santa river. It rains again in the evening but we find a good enough camping spot (3915m) next to a river and a few shepherd huts. Four tiny one room shelters with thatch roofs form the corners of the dry stone wall livestock enclosures.

    It all really starts the next day with the sun! We see the first set of Queen of the Andes, 'Puya Raimondii '. This plant comprises trunk and leaves like a pineapple. A huge stem (10-30m) with several thousands of flowers develops after 30 to 100 years. The flowering and seed production happens only once, lasts a whole year and spreads several millions of seeds.... and then the plant dies. The seeding had better work as it is the unique means of reproduction! As we climb we find hillsides full of these elegant Queens.

    We climb bravely on the gravel/dirt/rock road during this fascinating day where we also admire bubbling springs, wild birds and a huge stone with several wallpaintings. We cover only a short distance but it is a ride packed with beauty and interest .

    This time our camping spot is by the river with snow capped peaks all around. As we pitch it starts to hail. By sleeping at this altitude (4600m) we improve our chances of achieving tomorrow's climbs to the high passes.    Leer más

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  • AliceAlainPeruViajero
    This lady carries this calf as if it were her baby!
    Breakfast on the hotel's terrasse. Nice view of the Huascarán!Traditional religious figure on this poteryThe 6-9th century habitants were shorter than AlainA three story funeral buildingThese stones are arranged as carpentryThe material covering the roof (thatch, tiles...) is unknown, but the support structure was stoneAlice seems also very tall!A huge corner stoneAn impressive line of base stonesScaffolding for new bridge construction.The bridge was taken away and a large detour is neededRange of summits from Huascarán ParkAlain sees here the fin of a Humpback whaleAltitude 3800m, a clear torrentAlice at 3850 with the Holter test!

    39 per minute

    26 de septiembre, Perú ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    After two days of rest in Chacas we take bikes and luggage in the bus to Huaraz. This costs 20 Sols (5€) each, no fee for the bikes. It takes three hours, and for the largest part follows the reverse of our recent itinerary, including the tunnel.

    Having found our hotel and deposited the bicycles for a check up at a recommended bike shop, we visit the cardiologist. The echocardiogram is normal, so he equips Alice with a Holter machine for the next 36 hours, to record any anomalies such as arrhythmia.

    The next morning, Holter machine in tow, and with permission, we head out on a day excursion to visit Wilkahuaín (‘grandson’s house’ in Quechua). These restored tombs from the 6th to 9th century, use a stone construction technique that is reminiscent of Marcahuamachuco: walls made with very large stones stabilised by smaller ones. Interestingly the roofs are still in place and supported by very large beams each made of a single stone.

    We continue climbing on a mix of dirt road and concrete road under construction, in a splendid environment. A landslide which has completely destroyed the bridge forces us to execute an elaborate river crossing.

    The next day we get the results from the Holter. It is normal, but Alice does have a very low heart rate (lowest is 39 per minute during sleep). It seems this is typical of serious cyclists and so not surprising given the month long intense exercise to which we have treated ourselves. The conclusion is that Alice’s issues are due to altitude but her heart is not a factor.

    Thus reassured, Alice wants to give altitude a final shot. We decide to continue with the next leg of the planned route, but taking it by smaller daily chunks. The hope is that this will allow Alice to handle the altitude better. Fingers crossed.    Leer más

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  • AliceAlainPeruViajero
    View from hotel. We crossed somewhere left of the big glacier
    Plaza des Armas with beautiful wood work on all the buildingsThe churchFresco depicting the conversion of the incas to christianityA local restaurant.

    Chacas

    24 de septiembre, Perú ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    Alice has been struggling with altitude for some time now, and especially the last pass. She is completely wiped and worried that altitude may just not be for her. This is a bit of a problem, as most of Peru is super high. It would mean a radical change to the holiday.

    We decide to abort the planned Huarascán loop and that a visit to the doctor is in order. Soon we find ourselves in a small but welcoming village hospital of Chacas; complete with plenty of locals in their charismatic hats and brightly coloured dresses and shawl.

    We pay up the grand sum of 5 Sol (just over a euro) and are seen by a charming young doctor -- she even speaks english. Then various tests since Alice is concerned about weird sensations from her heart. The main surprise is a very low resting heart beat. It probably means she is rather fit :-). Nevertheless, we are recommended to visit a Cardiologist in Huaraz.

    The next day we visit the pleasant town of Chacas which has lovely woodwork and strong connections with Don Bosco and the Salesian order (Alice´s uncle was a Salesian priest) and investigate getting the bus back over the pass and to Huaraz. It seems the cardiologist will be able to see us as soon as we arrive and Alice will be able to quickly have various tests -- which on this time /price scale and, with the medical insurance giving the thumbs up, is quite an opportunity.

    Breakfast in Peru: In touristy towns hotels often include breakfast. Peruvian breakfast is typically coffee or tea ( with cinnamon and clove), fruit (not-)juice, eggs, rubbish bread and if we are lucky avocado and sometimes even cheese. The rest of the time we self cater, often cooking in our hotel room. Tea/coffee, hot chocolate, bread for Alain and porridge laced with raisins.    Leer más

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  • AliceAlainPeruViajero
    Clear this morning; above our campsite appears the Chugllaroju 5575m
    The stage map. Start top-left where the dashed trail crosses the river; many hairpins after that!Getting up at 6:00 for the last stretch1Chajiaco 5512m, a beautyAcross the valley, the Chopicalqui, 6354mThe top of Huascarán 6768m, is the second from the left. It will all disappear in the clouds soon.Mountain LupineThe valley from which we arrived1Closer to the top, we are near seriously receeding glaciersOccasional crash barriers. Also: bicycles, glaciers, cloudsRun off from the glacier forms cascadesThe clouds hide the top of the show2We stop here at 4770m. Clouded view from Huscarán (left), a glacier pass, and Chopicalqui (right).We are near beautiful peaks and ice.2Selfie 4770mHard-earned smileThe tunnel entrance, 4736mOn the other side of the tunnel, new mountains and a beautiful lakeThe old road above the tunnelAnother, so blue, lake!1Finally we arrive around 3500m near Chacas. Some blue sky and warmth are back.

    Punta Olímpica

    23 de septiembre, Perú ⋅ ☁️ 4 °C

    WOW! The mountains are so beautiful this morning!

    The alarm is set at 5:45 to take advantage of the clear morning. The ground is quite soaked after a seriously wet night that clears to stars by 4:00.

    Coffee, tea, hot chocolate, porridge, some fruit, pack our stuff and the heavy wet tent... and off we go with no less than 28 hairpins and, weather permitting, fantastic views of the highest mountains of Peru (see map) awaiting us. At the top at 4770m, we will have a choice to descend through an unlit tunnel, or to continue on the old road up to 4850m. The old road is passable for hikers, and, in principle, for cyclists who can carry bikes over steep landslides... It will only be possible with good enough conditions...

    The views are out of this world for the first hour or so, but soon clouds wrap the top of the mountains, and our summit collection stalls completely. Alice is tired and after about a third of the hairpins, Alain takes on the (wet) tent. We settle into a rythm, but wind and drizzle encourage us to push harder -- probably a mistake.

    Finally we make it to the tunnel. We are cold and go a short way along the old road to shelter for a quick lunch. We can't help a shivering selfie and self congratulations-- we have never been or even imagined being so high with or without bicycles! Sadly, we feel too shattered to try the tough old road in these conditions, so we turn on the lights and reluctantly head through the tunnel. It is cold, dark and much water pisses from the ceiling.

    The beauty of a glacial lake welcomes us on the other side of the tunnel. We manage (don't ask how!) to lose each other for a brief ( but infinitely long) moment during the descent...

    The descent is beautiful, but Alice is seriously exhausted by effort and altitude, and struggles to get down to the superb village of Chacas, where a few days of rest will be de rigueur.    Leer más

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  • AliceAlainPeruViajero
    18km does not sound far... but can we make it? The hairpins are on view
    Leaving Shila some high peaks just peaking throughYoung peasant woman and her donkey in traditional dressThe Huarcarán towers above usLooking back to the Cordillera Negra whilst the pig gently dozesLike the Mont Blanc, its easy to miss- and suddenly realize there is something above the cloudsThe deep valley we are climbingAnother side of the HuscaránNow in the National ParkThey are tall

    Huascaran National Park

    22 de septiembre, Perú ⋅ ☁️ 10 °C

    Today is a short leg to get us as close as we can to the final climb to puntas Olympica - so as to give us the best chance of making it over tomorrow. We enter the national park with towering peaks and high glaciers around. Arriving at the planned camp spot just before lunch and get the tent up in time to avoid the hail and then the rain. We are both demolished!

    Unexpected magic. When Alain turns his torch off in the tent, we are surrounded by twinkling lights. Many are in between the inner and outer of the tent. And outside, the delicate light dance of fire flies across the river plain.    Leer más

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  • AliceAlainPeruViajero
    The market just below our bedroom window
    At 6am its already started. Spot the pig on a tricycleHaving coffee in Caraz at 6:27, an optical illusion of the sun and a sharp mountain in sight!From the road we start seeing white peaks on our leftBecoming serious mountains! Huascarán on the rightStill life with cactus, narrow gorge and white peaksMarching bandFrom our accommodation in Shilla. Rain is about to pelt it downThis tree, new to us, is very common as public decoration in PeruThe grocery shop, the foot of the glaciers and the threatening sky

    From Caraz to Shilla

    21 de septiembre, Perú ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    Our plan is a 7-day tour of the Huscarán, the highest (6768m) mountain in Peru, and one of the highest in the Andes. It's time to see the snow up close. In so doing we have several high passes to cross, some of questionable feasibility. Just thinking of it, Alain’s back pain and leg sores protest.

    Adding to the uncertainty, the shoulder rainy season has now started - but with an unseasonal massive 2-hour downpour, which flooded out the market below our hotel room.

    The big climb is over 2000m (effectively 2828m with ups and down) - so we have decided to split it into three parts of 1100, 900, and 820 m. From Caraz, we start parallel to the Cordillera Blanca, and soon begin to see white summits on the horizon, shining in the morning sun after last night's deluge. The road is quite busy, some sunday activities (e.g. a marching band in the middle of the road) making it interesting. The real climb starts after the town of Chuaraz, animated and clogged up by the sunday market. Out of Chuaraz, numerous dogs (with online bite warnings) give us an opportunity to rehearse our dog-skills (go slow, look at them, shhht them and if all else fails hide behind your bike and pretend to throw stones at them); in fact all goes well.

    Shilla, our first stage, is another very steep little town. The only listed accommodation is the absolute pits, (PM for details) but we manage good shopping and good dinner. We also find out -- too late -- that there are other accommodation options that could easily have been much better.    Leer más

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  • AliceAlainPeruViajero
    1There are many many many tunnels
    2And a cute waterfallAnother donkey that has got loose (with rope dangling)A multitude of coloursThe landscape is relatively barren1Spot the cyclist for a sense of scale1As we come higher, vegetation developsMorning lightHigh mountains start to appearPlease don't lean over any furtherSee that tunnel, we managed to stay on the roadThese are actually part of a hydroelectric infrastructureWe get glimpses of snow on the Cordillera Blanca mountainsGrowing "snow" on top and "coal plants" at the bottom. We have not figured it out...

    Canyoning on

    18 de septiembre, Perú ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    From our dusty perch above the river we have another day of climbing dusty canyons. It is impossible to escape the dust. Taste the dust, smell the dust, cough the dust, eat the dust. Our hands are black when we stop. The road sides are covered in dust. No choice but to live with it.

    We have started early to help with the heat. Whilst we wind the rest of the narrow section of the gorge we are in and out of tunnels and shaded. Once the gorge widens it is hot. 🥵 and barren. We climb steadily past several coal mines that look rather derelict but seem to be operational. There is an air of poverty here and the miners housing is often very basic and shabby.

    We find a simple hotel in a small village that has a hydroelectric power station at one end and a coal mine at the other end. Then it’s off again in the morning for the next set of tunnels in the Canyon de Pato, another massively deep and narrow gorge that forms the boundary between the Cordillera Blanca and the Cordillera Negra. The road clings to a cliff face with unprotected vertical (and vertiginous) drops to the river below, and the mountains tower above.

    It appears that we are now on a more frequented route. A québécois cyclist whose bike we had seen in last night’s hotel arrives and we chat a while, then we meet a french couple who are descending.

    Its not long before we are through and out of the gorge, and pedalling up and into Caraz. We have tiny glimpses of the Cordillera Blanca with snowy peaks, though mostly it is hidden by the clouds. This will be the next challenge of our adventure.    Leer más

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  • AliceAlainPeruViajero
    Rolling down to Chuquicara
    Beautiful morning!Who might have lived here?1Happy photographA papaya...1Nice and shady, also breathtakingAn incredibly narrow cañon!Approaching Chuquicara the valley widensThe Santa river, we are in a new cañon!A factory in the middle of this desert?Greater mountains are in sight2An immense surfing wave of stone...A tight gorge again!A coal mineThe rapid noise is deafeningThis tunnel is a welcome shade1Our tent place. The sun sets very early!

    One cañon down, one cañon up

    17 de septiembre, Perú ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    Mission one this morning, send a help message to UK mechanic Russ, asking for Rohloff advice, before it is the end of working day in England. This requires speeding downhill 25km to a place with a phone network. Difficult not to go slow or stop, the descent is really extraordinary in the early morning!

    Chuquicara (500m) is reached at 9:30am. This crossroad (and cross-cañon) town is a stopping point for truckers. We replenish our reserves with fruit, tomatoes, avocado, etc. The explanation from Russ comes back rapidly. The slow process of threading, understanding, trying, erring and trying again, and of finding a cable cutter, finishes two hours later. Hurray! We celebrate with ice-cream at the petrol station.

    Next step is another cañon up to the Cordillera Blanca, we are in a great mood. While the Tablachaca cañon was host to gold miners, the cañon of the -- larger -- Santa river is surprisingly the scene of coal mining. The valley is nonetheless spectacular with amazing narrows and rapids, shifting vegetation and lighting. After 35km (and 500m vertically) of climb we find a remarkable place to pitch the tent: a nice flat space below the road but invisible from it; just able to reach the river but unreachable by it; facing a several hundred meters vertical face on which the passing vehicles project shadows and light; from which we see a very small portion of the sky.    Leer más

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  • AliceAlainPeruViajero
    The bottom of the canyon comes into view
    Dust clouds behind the lorries1Mineral salts1Steep and deep in dust... and we thought it was downhillThis is the canyon we are trying to descend1This is our roadYou can tell there are many minerals here1Finally some tarmacWe are pedaling through a lot of rubbleThis would be a good place for finding gold...Panning for gold. There are several scruffy men down the river looking for gold in the sediments111Broken Rohloff cable! What is a woman to do?1Packing up after a night in the canyon

    The Tablachaca canyon

    16 de septiembre, Perú ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    “Here is Edward Bear, coming downstairs now, bump, bump, bump, on the back of his head, behind Christopher Robin. It is, as far as he knows, the only way of coming downstairs, but sometimes he feels that there really is another way, if only he could stop bumping for a moment and think of it.”

    Its a long way down into the Tablachaca canyon, and its a rough bumpy dusty dirty road. After only a few km, and a couple of trucks and buses, our clean clothes are yet again thick with dust that wont shake out. Not to mention the small matter of our airways. Plus there are some unexpected very steep and dusty uphill sections which we struggle with.

    However, soon the delight of the enormous canyon below us takes hold. With the bumps and camera stops, progress is slow but we are enthralled. Poor Alain takes a tumble and comes out with grazes and bruises and even more dust. He looks like he has just emerged from a mine.

    We admire the splendid canyon colours and ponder how we have never heard of this amazing canyon before. Surely it is not a bad second to the Grand Canyon!

    We are pleasantly surprised when we hit the canyon bottom and find (intermittent) tarmac. The bumping reduces, speed increases… and then suddenly Alice feels an ominous clunk. Her gear cable has broken- so no more changing gear. Its a new fancy system that we have not fixed before, and we have no wifi. We manage to extract the broken cable but can’t figure how to thread the spare cable back in. We decide to carry on- luckily its mainly downhill.

    However time is passing and we need to find a place for the night. Alain spots the old road by a tributary. The location between canyon walls is impressive, although the site is not so easy for camping. First, we are camped on dirt so its a challenge to keep things clean. Then, although near the river, access to water that is clean enough to filter is difficult. Finally, we are a bit more visible from the road than is ideal. Still gazing up the steep sides and seeing the stars above has a certain magic.    Leer más

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  • AliceAlainPeruViajero
    Th upstream section of the Rio Tablachaca gorge, a dusty landslide happening
    Start by crossing the Tablachaca riverA big landslide completely hides the tarmac1Just completed this very steep and slippery piece of dirt road.1Baby landslides... there is more than one landslides per segment of the climb!Yes, there was a big drop at that hairpin. PfffIf the road has collapsed a few warning stones are placedDeep cut hairpin1Part of yesterdays descent. Our eagle's nest campsite is bottom left.1Todays climb and yesterday's descent1The steep short-cut (huff, huff, puff)Going slowly and breathing strongWatch out for yet more landslides1Our Hospedaje (Inn), steep street but great scenery!Pallasca is very very steep1And has wonderful views

    Hairpins to Pallasca

    15 de septiembre, Perú ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

    Night has set on our little eagle's nest; from the tent we can feel the traffic on the other side of the valley, brake noises and gear shifts, occasionally interspaced with bright lights shining on us; more alarmingly, rock sliding noises of various intensities. Coming out of the tent, we see in the dark a few trucks or buses, lit with green, red, white lights, slowly moving from one hairpin to another. This is the preview of our road tomorrow.

    We start by crossing the Tablachaca river, still a clean mountain torrent here. We collect and filter a couple liters of water from it. Then start the climb. The double lane road itself is well graded, but there are many landslides at just about every hairpin or little straight segment. These landslides create very steep (20-25%) slippery sections for us to pass over. At some point the route is diverted to an older, even steeper road. This is a roadworks diversion that was not there overnight... (maybe an overnight landslide? ). The old road is harrowing, we can barely climb. The stunning views provide an excuse to take photo stops... and to breathe ourselves back to life.

    Finally we make it to Pallasca, where we are welcomed by steep streets and a charming little town. A very nice host lady provides beds for the night and the use of her washing machine for our disgustingly dusty clothes.    Leer más

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  • AliceAlainPeruViajero
    Sunset from our eagle's nest
    Looking back at our route11Back in warmer climatePicking up supplies on a mountain villagePrehispanic figure in CochamarcaMollepata1Landslides and rockfalls are everywhere1The up is for tomorrow1Perched on a ledge (the old road), our eagle's nest

    Descending from the heights

    14 de septiembre, Perú ⋅ ⛅ 9 °C

    From our high cold and beautiful campsite at over 4000m we can only descend. The descent is slow. The gravel road is difficult and although relatively new, is already much eroded in places.
    We reach the “main” road - which looks about the same as the previous more minor roads and soon roll into the mountain village of Mollepata which has a wonderful view over the mountains and valley. We rest a while on a shady bench (quite a rarity) and admire the view.
    Then its some more descent. The road now varies between 2-lane smooth tarmac and single-lane dirt through the landslides that are on every hairpin bend. The concept of landslides enters an entirely new dimension on these roads snaking through mountainous piles of rubble. Its a bit like trying to build a road through an enourmous sand castle.

    The next climb will be a long one and is reserved for tomorrow, so we will take it gently today and camp low down ready for the climb. One of our cycling apps suggests a wild camping spot which is perched on a ledge above the valley - an abandoned part of the old road. Its an eagles’s neat, hidden and secluded with wonderful views.    Leer más

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  • AliceAlainPeruViajero
    We are more or less contouring today... but have over 900m of climbing to do, all on dirt
    1After all, we prefer to get wet feet than risk thisAnkle deep1Concentration14000m highlandsAnother mining road ( not ours)Up down, round and over1View over the Marañon basinYet another huge open cast mine11And finally the long awaited Llama!1Hello llamas!!It looks flat but its really hard work1Can we make it?Llamas or maybe Alpacas, shaved1Alpaca? flockAnd finally time to descend1Bivouac at 4050m.

    Llamas at 4100m !

    13 de septiembre, Perú ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

    The network of roads in Peru is organised as the head of a rake with a limited number of roads starting from the big coastal highway up the mountains. Traffic inland parallel to the coast (as we are trying to do) can be along a valley, or require crossing the lay of the land with big deep valleys, and then dirt roads higher up. Today we are riding high.

    It's grey on our lovely laguna as we leave. We need to cross its outflow either through a deepish ford or across a narrow high and extremely decrepit concrete “plank”. Hmmm. Alice leads the way and takes her shoes off to cross the ford which after all is not so deep.

    The rest of the day has wonderful views - but is very tiring, with consecutive ups and downs. The altitude record is broken several times 4000, 4150, 4240, and finally 4300m! We are probably acclimated by now :-).

    At around 4100m, big news of the day.
    WE FINALLY SEE LLAMAS!!! First a couple, later a little group, finally a whole group of white ones that have been shaved -- but maybe those are Alpacas? On this piece of good news, we take a brand-new road down an engaging valley and bivouac near the torrent.    Leer más

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  • AliceAlainPeruViajero
    A wonderful rainbow over laguna Huangagocha
    Goodbye Huamachuco!7th day adventism is very common hereAgricultural landscape1Large open cast mines continue to be a feature of the landscape.Our route for tomorrow1Huffing and puffing and...1smiling!Laguna Huangagocha!1complete change of palette when the sun comes out!1Set up for the nightOur bikes snuggle down too

    Aiming higher: Laguna Huangagocha

    12 de septiembre, Perú ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    From Huamochuco we plan to head higher and wilder. The route will take us over 4300m. We are still working on our altitude acclimatisation, which limits how much we can increment our night time altitude. As we have spent quite a lot of nights now between 3000 and 3200m and this will be a relatively short day, we decide to push the limits just a little and aim at Laguna Huangagocha at 3850m. It allows a potentially rather nice campsite, and makes the following tough and high day a little more feasible.

    After a steep climb out of Huamachuco, we have an easy 10km downhill on tarmac and then turn off onto a dirt road, its rough and we are climbing steadily. Many roads in the mountains in Peru are there courtesy of the mining traffic. So, we politely stand to one side, whilst a convoy of around 15 heavily laden trucks pass, going not all that much faster than us. We time our breathing to avoid the worst of the dust.

    We turn off the “main” dirt road, onto a much steeper and bumpier one and with some huff and puff arrive at the lake. Its the first time we have been really away from towns and villages for a night - and it is lovely.

    We are there in good time, so can take it easy enjoying a wonderful rainbow before turning in early. At this altitude its chilly once the sun has gone.    Leer más

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  • AliceAlainPeruViajero
    The impressive first towers (partly rebuilt)
    Marcahuamachuco dominates the surroundings. Here the main valley1Construction of an angle with massive stonesAlain arrives at the first siteA side building showing the original stoneworkThe monumentale door of the fifth archeological siteMassive and careful construction of the doorReconstitution of a possible use of the round structuresQuite extraordinary site...1The double round structure, with supports between the two walls, is extremely solidInside of one of the round structures, further constructions are lined up on the inner wallThe round structures are right on top of the cliff!

    Marcahuamachuco

    10–11 sept., Perú ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    Above the little town of Huamachuco, between 3500 and 3600m, lies this archeological site of Pre-Incan ruins, another one that has been referred to by archaeologists as "Machu Picchu of the North" :-). The constructions took place from 500 BC to 1000AD. The purpose probably varied over time, defensive, residential or ceremonial. The Inca conquered it, then the Spanish looted it to eliminate idolatry.

    The site dominates several steep surrounding valleys. We arrive first at four impressive towers, which were last used as tombs for important people. The quality of the stone work is very interesting, as can be seen from the older buildings that have been preserved.

    At that point we meet a guide/guard who tells Alain that we should carefully follow the visit trail marked by ropes. Of course the trail is marked by stones, and what do you do when there are no ropes? We wander happily to the next building, a huge, long palace, separated inside by a mysterious longitudinal wall. These unrestored buildings are very interesting, but our visit is interrupted by a loud and angry whistle blow! The guard explains with a smile that we can't go there, and Alain agrees, with a smile, to follow both stones and ropes.

    After another rectangular palace with a great door, and then a huge wall, we finish by visiting three very curious round structures set right at the edge of the cliff, and of spectacular design. Recent research suggests that, at least at some time, these were family residences with the circular walls affording protection against the wind. . The living space was between the two external walls and was 3 or 4 stories high and there is a large central courtyard with a well. The surrounding land was grazed by Llamas. There are other theories and perhaps more than one answer. The mystery is fascinating    Leer más

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  • AliceAlainPeruViajero
    2This kind lady gave us 2 fruit- like lemons but with no kick
    1Dinner at the local busy rotisserieView from our hotel in San Marcos2Some bigger mountains are now in view1Impressive descent into CajabambaPolitical slogans in every villageMining is very important for Peru. The mines are hugePlaza de Armas Cajabamba11Laguna Sausacocha ... and a short flat cycling respite3The whole mountain is a multistory (I counted 25 plus levels) gold mine. Spot the lorries for scale.1Childrens parade in HuamachucoEvening light on the plaza de Armas, Huamachuco1We still have not seen a llama!2Banana symphony1Rush at the market for a delicious-smelling hot meal1We enter an little shop where these delicious shashliks are served. Hmm. Our best dinner!

    Up down up up down

    7 de septiembre, Perú ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    We are aiming south in the direction of the Cordillera Blanca but still have quite some way to go. Our next leg follows the main road - it is not quiet as there are some occasional big lorries, but its not too bad either. Every day we have several big climbs and descents. 400m up, 600m down plus “small” extras to cross rivers. Its a lot of climbing each day (1300m) but without the reward of conquering a satisfying high pass. Even over 3000m the land is farmed and there are houses and villages everywhere.

    There are major towns along the route that neatly divide the route. In this sort of territory, we prefer to stay in hotels when they are available- especially as they are inexpensive. First night San Marcos with an extremely lively and noisy Sunday market. Next, Cajabamba, surprises us with a touristy feel and quality shops. And finally and wearily, into Huamachuco at 3200m where we will rest and resupply before heading higher and wilder.    Leer más

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