SE Asia 2023

February - March 2023
A 31-day adventure by Angie Read more
  • 67footprints
  • 5countries
  • 31days
  • 540photos
  • 29videos
  • 31.7kkilometers
  • 28.8kkilometers
  • Day 1

    Gettin' Outta Dodge - YQR

    February 2, 2023 in Canada ⋅ ☁️ -24 °C

    After 3 delays totaling 3hrs, I left -34C behind on an evening flight.

    Sad to say bye to Rick & pets, especially my soul-mate Sam 🐕. There were tears. Looking forward to spending time with Naila and seeing new lands.

    Our Air Canada gate agent was a friendly and warm badass. We chatted. I was one of the names called to double-check all my documents were in order. Was Air Canada spying on me? Did they know how much angst was involved in me getting my travel visa for Vietnam? Did they know I got it with only hours to spare and my backup plan was to go anyway and hope it showed up somewhere along my path (which I know now is ridiculous as it was checked at every airport).

    This gate agent announced she wanted to fill this plane as quickly as possible so we could get on our way and then proceeded to be as efficient and bossy as a drill sergeant. She juggled with ease and very clear instructions, dealing with too much carry-on for the flight, people who didn't have documents ready as they approached, and cracked the whip to keep the line moving. Everytime some did something studpid, she'd make an announcement to correct said behaviour in the rest of us 😆 . Really if everyone loaded a plane like this traveling would be easier.
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  • Day 1

    First Stop: Vancouver YVR

    February 2, 2023 in Canada

    Nice place to take a long walk! Vancouver International is one of the most beautiful airports I've ever seen. It has a warm feeling with lots of polished wood, water features, plant & tree life, and all kinds of indigenous art.

    I've never been here during Chinese New Year and it's even more beautiful with red lanterns and symbols throughout.

    My original stopover was to be 4 hours so even with the delays from Regina there was still a comfortable margin. Two more delays in Vancouver resulted in us leaving 90 minutes late, which I realized would make it near impossible to catch my connecting flight to Hanoi 😢, originally scheduled out of Hong Kong with only a 1hr 15min stopover.

    Perhaps Cathay Pacific Airlines will also have delays?

    Boarding this flight took an hour. Most of the travellers were of Asian and East Indian Heritage and of the folks I met, most had done this flight before. They knew the organized chaos of imaginary "boarding pass zones" in the crowd. They started lining up way early.

    This was my first of what will surely be many times glomming on to friendly strangers or at least observing & copying (real life copying & pasting?) them to find my way.

    All annoucements in YVR are in Mandarin, English and then French. Our flight crew - all kind, friendly and efficient - did the opening announcements in these 3 languages and then offered translations in Cantonese, Hindi, Japonese and a couple of other languages! I may have to rethink my stong opinions about Air Canada.
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  • Day 3

    Things I'm Learning Along the Way

    February 4, 2023 in Hong Kong ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    This post includes a list of things I'm glad I brought, didn't need, and survival skills/bits. It was started as "a few things that served me well for this unplanned day in Hong Kong HKG" and grew into a list of things to make traveling easier and more enjoyable.

    In no particular order:

    1) My Hoka shoes and daily dog walks. I wish I'd turned on my fitness tracker as I walked many km and hours through out my trip. I also did a lot of walking and standing in the plane. I chose to prioritize healthy circulation and flexibility over sleep. I know from long work shifts that walking and moving is the key to keeping me awake and relatively functional.

    2) Being an extrovert. I can talk to anyone which helps pass the time and helps me find my way. As I get older I'm less concerned about looking dumb.

    3) Life as a birth worker. Sleep is my superpower but so is the ability to function without it for long periods of time. By the time I got to my last flight I'd been awake for most of 48 hours. I managed a couple of cat naps on the plane which was a far cry from my expectation of tucking in for 6 hours of uninterrupted sleep. Another cat nap in the Hong King airport, which has lots of places designed for sleep.

    4) My Osprey Fairview 55L backpack, specifically designed for carry on specs. No lost luggage for me. Also a change of clothes and access to toiletries was a sweet treat when I missed a connection.
    Thanks, Mom & Jack!

    5) My new Travelon Anti-Theft Metro "Waist Pack". (If you're over 30, it's a fanny-pack.) This was a splurge before my trip and money very well spent. I could write a whole blog post about this thing - I'm betting a well-travelled woman designed it - and I might never ever travel again without it. If I had to give up my Hoka shoes or my Travelon fanny pack, that would be Sophie's Choice! (You all know how much I love my Hokas.)

    6) My Beam insulated UV water bottle. Fill from any tap, push the UV button, and drink water that's free of pathogens 3 min later. Stays cold for hours. According to my math I would have to purchase 60-150 bottles of water over the month and that just hurts my Earth-loving hippy heart too much.

    6a) Adjustable sling to hold water bottle. It's air-light folds down into a tiny pouch.

    7) My cut and paste strategy. When in Rome...
    Glomming on to friendly strangers or at least observing & copying them to find my way. I actually told an older man in Hong Kong that I was adopting him because he knew his way through the airport. We were both on the same flight to Hanoi and thought if we ran fast enough we might make it. No such luck.

    8) My Petzl Actik Core headlamp. Tiny and powerful, used daily. The only day I left it behind, I ended up in a dark cave (on a boat tour) - crap. I really, really wished I had brought it. It has a rechargeable battery but can also be used with 2xAAA batteries. It has a red light, regular light, flashing, and 3 brightness settings.

    9) My magical bomber GI protection, which I usually just start taking a day or two before even though the rx is 1-2 weeks before. I continue for a week or two after returning. This is well worth making space in the pack!!  I've travelled all over the world and have never been sick, even eating street-vendor food. 
    - Take all three according to instructions on bottle.  Do the math to ensure there’s enough for a week or two before the trip (or a few days if you're like me), through the trip and for 4-6 weeks (or 1-2 weeks, realistically) after.
    Ø  Herbal parasite formula (e.g. Wild Rose Paratech or New Roots Parasite), 1-2 daily (morning and late afternoon).
    Ø  HCL supplement (e.g. Chinese herbs or Berberine HCL), 2 daily with meals.
    Ø  Digestive enzymes for bigger cooked meals
    Ø  Heat-stable probiotics (e.g. FloraAdvanced Probiotics, Genestra, Renew Life). Take a dose daily before bed. 


    Other bits will be updates as I go - mostly so i remember next time...

    OTHER RANDOM THINGS I'M GLAD I HAD:
    - Cash! Cash is king. American money is pretty much useless in Asia. Most places only take cash in local currency.
    - Washcloth - these pretty much don't exist in Asia
    - Small bar of soap in a zip-lock for my fanny-pack
    - Laundry strips (the dry soap kind, like Earth Eco Strips); just a few in a zip-lock. Saved my from using smelly detergent from laundromats.
    - Zip-locks! Water-proofed my passport and phone in wet areas and boat tours. All kinds of uses.
    - Sarong - so versatile and people need to be covered to enter temples - no shoulder or knees showing. Easy to throw over a pair of shorts to go into a temple.
    - Sun-Shade shawl. (Thanks Mom!) Kept me from frying a few times and was an easy top-layer over a tank for temples.
    - Small notebook for important details, names of next location, reference # etc. in case my phone died and to save flipping between apps. Flipping between apps urgently to find my next bus got old real fast! This was an unexpected life saver.
    - One long-sleeved, soft shirt, as public transit is FREEZING. I even used my wool cowl-neck too.
    - Thin scarf to dress up an outfit. I cover my face with it while flying, bussing, on trains as that's the only way I can sleep in public.
    - Grab App - like Uber for Asia but way better. Ensures safe, easy, affordable local travel.
    - Booking.com, Trip.com, and Expedia apps to find accom and transportation. Fellow travellers and I lived by reviews and ratings on these apps! I rarely used AirBnB on this trip but not a bad idea to check it.
    - TripAdvisor app for local things to do, day-tours and trips. Reviews and easy to book. Compare prices with booking at hotel or local travel kiosks. Since almost none of the local speak English, TripAdvisor was a saviour!
    - AirAsia app was almost always more affordable and had more flights than the general booking apps. Plus points. I got upgraded to posh travel on one of the flights for no reason except using the app! Generally, it's cheaper to book local transportation and flights when in a country than before entering.
    - An international phone plan from my cell-carrier that could just be activated on the days I needed it. Good for travel between countries but too $$ to cover a trip. Bought local SIM cards at the airports when entering new countries, with unlimited or big data plan as one lives by Google Maps and WhatsApp in Asia, and while travelling in general. (Future self: The people who sell them will swap out SIMS or add them to a spare port for me. Learn about e-SIMS before next big adventure.)

    DID NOT NEED:
    - Shampoo (unless I wanted to be picky about what I use)
    - Compression-sacks. They don't save any weight and if I have so much that I need to compress it, then I've brought too much. (Winter travel and bulky clothes are an exception; not needed for this trip.)
    - Towel. Most places supplied them and I only used it a couple of times. Could have improvised and used my sarong in a pinch. I used it as a blanket a couple of times.
    - Blow-up foot rest for plane. Nice to have but not necessary and another thing to carry all month. This is much better than the hanging foot rest which I was advised to not buy as it bugs the seat in front every time I move and can only be used with the seat-tray closed.
    - Mosi-net, which was supplied when needed. I stayed in decent places. Might have been useful in cheap hostels?

    NOTES FOR FUTURE:
    - Download currency in money app & language in translator before I need them! Practise for at least a week before departing.
    - Look up tipping in area.
    - Look up how to say thank you in local language.
    - Look up local customs such as acceptable clothing, especially in Asia.
    - Make one doc per outing with important info such as destinations, name of accom, confirmation #s etc. Don't rely on flipping through screens - it's torture.

    LONG-HAUL FLIGHT SURVIVAL:
    - Compression socks for any flight over 6 hrs. I put them on at the airport just before boarding as I don't love the feel of them but my feet felt great upon landing.
    - Drink tons!! There's no line-up for washrooms. The flight attendant told me folks don't like to drink on long flights b/c they don't want to have to use the toilet. Dehydration is the enemy of travel.
    - Get up and walk, stretch, every hour while awake. I made some friends, seeing the same walking group over a 14hr flight. There's a walking-crew on every long flight, often hanging out by the emergency doors to stretch and chat.
    - Paying a little extra to choose a seat with escape access, since I like to walk around so much. I had a middle bulk-head seat flying to Asia so I could sleep or escape with out waking my seat-mates. On the way home I chose an isle in the middle section of seats so my seat-mates could get out the other way if I was sleeping and I could easily get up if they were sleeping.
    - Download airline app, ideally before leaving home, for access to movies and online internet. One can use airmiles to pay for wifi (or about $25) for a long flight - well worth it! But one must have the app downloaded BEFORE boarding the plane for this and the entertainment to work.
    - I wish I'd found a good neck-pillow. The inflatable one I bought was no good. It made sleeping difficult unless I was at the window. At least it didn't take up much room in my pack. I'll keep looking for the perfect fit.
    - Note: Gloria LeMay swears by wearing loose clothes and taking off everything binding such as bras and belts during long flights. No thanks! I did wear nice PJ pants over the Pacific and always wear layers but that's as far as I took that advice LOL.
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  • Day 3

    Stopover #2: Hong Kong HKG

    February 4, 2023 in Hong Kong

    Stranded in Hong Kong airport for the day. My first 2 flights were delayed (2.5hr then 1.5hr) and of course the 3rd left on time, without me. 😭

    HKG feels opposite from YVR, energetically. It's also beautiful but in an ultra modern, starkly white modular style. It features interesting art, perfectly manicured gardens (no crazy wild trees in here!), countless sleeping spaces and the whole thing is designed for being plugged in. Lounging spots are as abundant as sleek desktops for working. The washroom doors talk. It's spotless.

    I made some travel buddies on the 14hr flight from Vancouver - those of us who prowled the aisles and hung out in the standing spots. We've been reunited here as Air Canada refugees 😂.

    I've griped about Air Canada for years but but every staffer I've met has provided top shelf service and kindness. When I missed my flight to Hanoi in spite of the efforts of staff and other passengers to get a few of us out of the plane quickly, there was a nice man waiting with a sign with my name as soon as I got out of the tunnel. He explained I'd already been put on the next flight. Then he walked me to the desk for my boarding pass and stayed with me to make sure I got through security ok and knew where to go next. He left me with food vouchers. It's a drag to miss a connection but they made it as as seamless as possible.

    There are some funny practises here such as hidden fees for everything.
    E.g. I ordered some spring rolls (108 HK dollars, or $19, + fees) to go at an airport restaurant.
    Server: OK but we charge 2 dollar for take out.
    Me: OK thanks. Then I'll stay here to eat.
    Server: OK but we charge 10% service fee to eat here.
    🤣
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  • Day 3

    First Night in Vietnam: Hanoi Pitstop

    February 4, 2023 in Vietnam ⋅ 🌧 19 °C

    By the time I got into my last plane on this ticket, I'd been awake - other than a couple of quick cat-naps - for 48 hours! I was that person who demanded my window seat when someone was already sitting in it and asking me to take the isle instead. No way! I earned that window (also near the front) - some bribery for the missed flight - and was in desparate need of some uninterrupted sleep. I tucked in and it was lights out; I don't even remember taxiing or take-off. Just over 2 hrs later I awakened just as we were landing in to a pea soup of thick fog. Kind of scary but it was a smooth landing at Noi Bai International Airport (HAN).

    Customs was fast. A fellow Air Canada refugee gave me the heads-up that Vietnamese customs guards don't take time to smile or say hello. Do not try to make conversation nor joke with them. That proved true. However they sure did take time to scrutinize my papers and compared my passport pic to my face for so long I started to fear I might get deported or imprisoned. Seriously.

    Then suddenly I was spit out into a strage, warm, new world where pretty much no one spoke English and I had neglected to set up my Google Translate with Vietnamese. Rookie mistake! Next task: find Vietnamese money and transportation. Sorting out a cab was just too hard in spite of all the text-help from Naila who was now a well-seasoned SE Asian traveler. I opted to walk instead as it was within a couple of km. Good shoes and a comfy backpack for the win.

    Before I left home, a friend told me I should practice for SE Asia by crossing the Lewvan without stopping. Just dodge through the cars sowly and make eye contact. (For my Toronto peeps - it's kind of like Kingston Rd but not at rush hour. For my mountain friends, think 16th Ave.) He was right. So on my first day in Vietnam, after traveling 36 hours and being awake for 48hr, I had to get across 12 lanes. Fortunately there was a median and it was getting late, so it was only slightly terriying. I did not go slowly nor make eye contact. I waited for a small break and ran for my life. Naila said if you run it screws up the tempo and that's how to get hit by a car. Sheesh!!

    I found my little hotel, the HD House. A king bed and private bath was a real luxury for the equivalent to $20. Interesting fact - the shower in hotel bathrooms here are just set into the wall of te bathroom. No separate area. No shower curtain. Kind of brilliant as every time someone showers, the entire bathroom gets cleaned. 😆

    The front-desk guy, who spoke no English, walked me down the street to a good place for dinner where no one spoke English. A big plate of veggie fried-rice and giger soup was soooo tasty and cost the equivalent of $2.75. On the way I waved at a few kids and they proceeded to grab my leg under the fence while I ate and I grabbed for their hands with chop stix. Totally cracked me up. It did not crack up their guardians so that was the end of that.

    Satisfied that my belly was full and proud that I had survived the first 2 hours, I crawled into my rock-hard bed and slept like a stone.
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  • Day 4

    Hanoi, Vietnam, by Day

    February 5, 2023 in Vietnam ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C

    The next part of my journey to get to Naila involved finding my way 3hrs up the road with a van service that Naila had arranged. That seems easy, right? She had already done all the work. All I had to do was cross the 12 lanes again, find the Dragon Airport Hotel, find the van driver, and get comfy for 3 hours. What could go wrong?

    I didn't meet anyone who spoke English until I got to Naila. (Spoiler alert - I did find her.) I don't expect most people in other parts of the world to speak English. I bring it up because this was a continuation of me being totally unprepared for my journey. I was a disaster of phone screens. Every time I had a question or someone asked me where I was going, I had to open Google translate (note to self - practise next time), open Gmail to find my confirmation, open Google maps when they didn't know the names in English, open WhatsApp to find Naila's transation and instructions and by then I had forgotten the first thing. Ugh. I probably did that routine about 12 times along this journey and got worse at juggling it all the more times I did it 🤯.

    No van but a guy picked me up at hotel in a little sports car. He pointed to his emailed confirmation with my name so I got in, ready to sit beside a dude with whom I could not converse for the next 3 hours. I encouraged him to play his music and his Spotify playlist included everything we'd hear on a slow music station. Interesting! He knew how to say "I love Mariah Carey" in English.

    Dirving through the city was a riot!! There's this symphony of organized chaos amongst the cars, trucks, scooters (sooooooo many scooters), motorcycles, cyclists, and pedestrians. Some of the scooters carry 2 people, dogs, or huge loads of produce. Everyone shares the roads with about 10cm between the next person, using lane markers sometimes and traffic lights as suggestions. Everyone goes everwhere and cuts in front of everyone. Sometimes someone just does a u-turn adn drives the wrong way up the lane. The cars speak some kind of unknown to me language of honking and tooting. I assume the long honks mean something different than the short toots. Somehow it works. Strangely, it was not scary.

    and kind of dumped me here to get a van. Hope it's the right one!
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  • Day 4

    Tam Coc Mountain Bungalows, Vietnam

    February 5, 2023 in Vietnam

    I made it right into Naila's open arms! 🥰
    Arrived in this beautiful property to join Naila, Justin, and their friend Joanne.

    This place is 2 km from Tam Coc (pronounced Tam-Sock) town, in Ninh Binh province. The city of Ninh Binh is 10 km away. This land is stunning.

    This is not a complaint but a fact: It's raining and has been for almost 2 weeks, with at least 2 more weeks forecast. Rainy season normally starts in the spring, around May. We're told a few times that the seasons have been shifting in the past few years, with the rainy season starting at least a month earlier, maybe more. This certainly seems to be the case. Any travel blog will predict Feb to be dry and sunny in Vietnam.

    Rain will change our plans as we had a local river boat tour planned and also a 2 day cruise on Halong Bay near Hanoi. Most of the time we can hardly see the mountains. We are cold and wet. Everything is wet. Our clothing gets damp just sitting in our packs and nothing dries, including my sink-laundry. In 2 days it was exactly as wet as the day I washed it! It's a fine mist so umbrellas are useless. We do as much exploring as we can. There are a few clear-wheather spots each day, but not enough for us to commit to tours. We're willing to walk through the mist and rain, but not spend time and money on activities where we can't see anything.
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  • Day 4

    Bich Dong Pagoda

    February 5, 2023 in Vietnam ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    This sweet little spot was close to our lodging. Naila, her friend Joanne, and I walked to the Pagoda. I ws surprised to learn most pagodas, including this one, have no admission fees. There are many donation boxes.

    It looks small from the front but goes back quite far into caves and all around the grounds. There are many shrines. I was surprised to find offerings included a lot of processed foods 😆 - packaged cake, pop. Hmmmm.... Exotic fruit was also offered along with flowers and money.

    The MANY stone steps are quite polished from thousands of years of use, plus it's been raining so the steps were really slippery. Like ice! We saw several folks slide but none fell. Some of the steps are as tall as knee-height and some are ankle-height. One must pay close attention and Naila held my hand most of the way.

    There are about 15 "tablets" with karma rules. I didn't know Buddism was so fire & brimstone.

    FROM TOURISM VIETNAM:
    Bich Dong Pagoda is a famous historical and cultural relic in Ninh Binh, about 100km from Hanoi. Its unique characteristic is the perfect combination of ancient pagodas with cross-covered roofs, natural caves and majestic mountains, hidden in the green of tropical forests. Bich Dong Pagoda belongs to Trang An Complex which is inscribed to the UNESCO World Heritage. It is 3 km west of Tam Coc and 11 km southwest of Ninh Binh City. 

    General Information:
    Bich Dong literally means “Emerald Green Grotto”. The ancients named it because the pagoda was surrounded by green trees and the scenery was really peaceful. Bich Dong Pagoda was first built in 1428 under the reign of Ly Thai To on the Truong Yen limestone mountains range, Hoa Lu District. In 1705, 2 Buddhist monks, called Tri Kien and Tri The, came here and discovered this cave with a pagoda hidden by dense and strong vine and plants. Then they rebuilt it with 3-layers pagoda. “Chua” in Vietnamese means pagoda.

    Architecture:
    Bich Dong Pagoda is a typical sample of traditional construction style, made from wood and stone with brick tiled roofs. But what makes it unique is 3 separate layered structures: Ha Pagoda (Lower Pagoda), Trung Pagoda (Middle Pagoda), and Thuong Pagoda (Upper Pagoda). These 3 pagodas are built in ascending. To reach them you must climb some steep stairs. On arrival at the site, you will see a small gate by a gigantic mountain. Crossing a stone bridge over a lotus flower pond, you go through a beautifully decorated gate and follow a small footpath to explore the whole pagoda.

    Chua Ha – Lower Pagoda:
    Chua Ha, or Ha Pagoda, is situated at the foot of the mountain. It is used as shrine of worshiping the Buddha. Ha Pagoda comprises 5 rooms with two-tier roof including 8 smaller roofs while its broad eaves were constructed by 6 stone steps. The 4-meters stone pillars in the pagoda are all monolithic without any joints.

    Chua Trung – Middle Pagoda:
    From Ha Pagoda, you will climb up 120 S-shaped steps to the halfway of mountain where Chua Trung, or Trung Pagoda, is located. This second pagoda is divided into two areas: half of the pagoda is situated outside and another half is situated inside the cave. It has a two-tier roof, a three-room upper temple, and a forecourt which all face west. The precious remains in the pagoda are the bronze bell with sophisticated engravings, the three huge stone statues of Amitabha Buddha, Van Thu Bodhisattva and Thi Kinh Bodhisattva.

    Chua Thuong – Upper Pagoda:
    Chua Thuong, or Thuong Pagoda, is on the top of the mountain. It has two small temples – the left one for the local earth god and the right one for the mountain god. To get there, visitors must climb up 40 stone steps along the mountain side, through Dark Cave where you can find the image of fairy, Buddha, little boys, flying dragon, swimming turtles. Thuong Pagoda is the ideal place to see the panoramic poetic scenery of Tam Coc – Bich Dong.
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  • Day 4

    Tam Coc by Night (Vietnam)

    February 5, 2023 in Vietnam ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    We walked to the town of Tam Coc (pronounced "tam-sock"), 2km from our accom.

    Had an excellent dinner. Our server spoke English - a rare skill around here. I was checking out the Carboys full of a strange substance. Rice wine - he offered me to try some. I should have been suspicious when it came in a shooter rather than a wine glass. 🥵 🔥

    After dinner we enjoyed prowling the street. It was pretty quiet (for Vietnam) except for Karaoke.

    Went back the next night for some of the best pizza I've ever had.
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  • Day 5

    Tam Coc & Area by Day

    February 6, 2023 in Vietnam ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C

    Images from our walk into Tam Coc.

    Between the rice wine, all the rice fields, and seeing the workers in the rice fields, I was curious to learn more about the life cycle and agricultural practices around rice. Very interesting. Always rinse your rice, people!

    Copied from my Tam Coc Mountain Bungalows Footprint (you can stop reading if you already checked out that one):

    This place is 2 km from Tam Coc (pronounced Tam-Sock) town, in Ninh Binh province. The city of Ninh Binh is 10 km away. This land is stunning.

    This is not a complaint but a fact: It's raining and has been for almost 2 weeks, with at least 2 more weeks forecast. Rainy season normally starts in the spring, around May. We're told a few times that the seasons have been shifting in the past few years, with the rainy season starting at least a month earlier, maybe more. This certainly seems to be the case. Any travel blog will predict Feb to be dry and sunny in Vietnam.

    Rain will change our plans as we had a local river boat tour planned and also a 2 day cruise on Halong Bay near Hanoi. Most of the time we can hardly see the mountains. We are cold and wet. Everything is wet. Our clothing gets damp just sitting in our packs and nothing dries, including my sink-laundry. In 2 days it was exactly as wet as the day I washed it! It's a fine mist so umbrellas are useless. We do as much exploring as we can. There are a few clear-wheather spots each day, but not enough for us to commit to tours. We're willing to walk through the mist and rain, but not spend time and money on activities where we can't see anything.
    Read more