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Occidentally Oriental
  • Arias Jordens
  • Arias Jordens

Occidentally Oriental

A 120-day adventure by Arias Read more
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  • Arias JordensOccidentally OrientalArias Jordens

    Kharakorum Museum

    November 23, 2017 in Mongolia ⋅ ⛅ -7 °C

    Mongolia providing another kick ass museum (yes those words go together) on the history of the various empires that Mongolia was part of, "The Great Mongol Empire" and the history of Kharakorum.

    The site of the city itself is a blank landscape as the city was destroyed when the Ming dynasty came to power. The palace site remains a mystery as the original theorised site proved to be the Bhuddist temple, and so now is believed to be buried underneath Erdenne Zuu monastery along with the elusive silver tree that was said to have had milk, honeyed milk, wine and something else flowing from it freely.Read more

  • Arias JordensOccidentally OrientalArias Jordens

    Erdene Zuu

    November 23, 2017 in Mongolia ⋅ ⛅ -7 °C

    Our guide took us to the three main temples that were built by the founder of the monastery (middle), his son (left) and grandson (right). It showed Bhudda in 3 different stages of life: as a prince before enlightenment, middle aged - the classic Bhudda depiction & old.

    He walked us through each of them and described how in Mongolia they follow the yellow hats, one of the 4 schools of Tibetan Bhuddism. I didn't even know there was more than one! Another tidbit, the Dalai Lama is the head of the yellow hats only - the other schools have different names for their head. As he showed us different murals and thangkas I asked about the violence depicted as it had always confused me why in a peace loving religion such graphic designs were used. He said that they were representative of destroying evil within the world but, very importantly, the evil is within man and the scary looking monsters are not monsters at all but benevolent beings to help curtail man's sins. The monstrous faces are to scare evil behaviour and the violent killing symbolic of kicking out the deviant behaviour found within each person.

    The monastery itself was almost fully destroyed during the 1937 purges under Stalinist Russia during which they systematically expunged as many Bhuddist monasteries and monks as they could. The outer wall encompasses a large area that used to hold over 300 temples and shrines and now there are 19 left. A beautiful place to visit with a very sharp and recent edge, the vast space inside the walls a stark reminder of the atrocities that took place not just here, not just against Bhuddism and not just in Mongolia but everywhere controlled by Russia at the time who proposed a threat to authority.

    All in all a very good tour and well worth a visit.    Read more

  • Arias JordensOccidentally OrientalArias Jordens

    Kharakorum Palace

    November 24, 2017 in Mongolia ⋅ ⛅ -7 °C

    The supposed "palace" which archaeologists now believe to be the great Bhuddist temple at Kharakorum mentioned in the annals of history. Now there is a platform there to show the dimensions of the structure. Turtle rock stands sentinel where the entrance of where Kharakorum used to be, one of four stone carving bases that had inscribed on them that this, Kharakorum, was the capital of the Mongol Empire and essentially the capital of the world. It was strange to see a landscape with absolutely nothing left knowing that this was once one of the greatest cities of its time.Read more

  • Arias JordensOccidentally OrientalArias Jordens

    Breakdown in the Snow

    November 24, 2017 in Mongolia ⋅ ⛅ -7 °C

    True to the typical Mongolian adventure, our car broke down on the way to UB. Which meant we were stuck in the snow THANKFULLLY next to the highway which meant we were easily accessible (relative to someplaces we'd been to and where were actually meant to be!)

    We waited for about 1-2 hours whilst Bimba did his best with his basic set of tools to get it fixed again. The tyre came off as well as the metalwork down to the disc and still we couldn't get going.

    As its starting to get dark Ider says that we're going and he points to one of the trucks that has stopped to help with the car. A mini truck cab stacked full with hay bales was our ride out. Rach and I squashed into the cab to join a very confused but amused Mongolian lady, Rach having to sit on my lap as it was only a 3 seater. Our driver, guide and luggage all got thrown up to the top of the hay to keep safe, hang on and not freeze whilst 2 more people piled into the cab one of whom displayed some very impressive contortionist skills to squeeze in. All set we were on our way but not before our saviours whacked up the music full blast to give us some anthems for our ride. Their camp, unbeknown to us at the time, was about half an hour away as it was now dark heading into a field of snow well away from traffic, lights and civilization. The ride was bumby with a couple of hairy moments as the truck skidded and one time almost felt as though it would topple but all people and bags made it, 60 fingers, 60 toes (I hope), 2 bags and 1 very relieved tour guide to have his Fragile non-mongolian charges not to have to spend a night in the car in the cold. I actually really enjoyed the whole experience, doesn't seem right to go to Mongolia without having a breakdown of some sort. It was just another example of the generosity and hospitality of the people of this land (especially as we would end up as guests in the family's winter camp for 2 nights) and no matter what happens if your are near a camp and in need there is always a fire to share which, as a foreigner from London where someone would take the clothes of your back if you fell asleep outside, is a really comforting thing to know.    Read more

  • Arias JordensOccidentally OrientalArias Jordens

    Nomadic Winter Camp

    November 25, 2017 in Mongolia ⋅ ⛅ -7 °C

    A camp of 3 gers and 3 herds was nesteld underneath a rocky outcrop and this was to be our refuge for 2 days. I couldn't believe how nice it was and how lovely the family were. Probably one of our best stays and it was completely unplanned. I feel lucky that we did break down so we could spend some time here. Out of all the families we stayed with the elderly matriarch and patriarch here were the most welcoming and warmest. Our second guide later told us later that "Mongolian spirit is always welcoming but sometimes you don't see a smile, just the way they are but their souls are warm", this made sense with what I'd experienced but this family were immediately friendly, smiley and wouldn't stop feeding me! I don't think I'd ever been so consistently full in my life!

    We learnt about their life and they have 3 camps: summer, autumn and winter (which they stay through spring) and move between them throughout the year along with the gers, herds of goat, cows and horse, truck and bike, other essentials and that's it. So far we'd stayed with local families but they had been in prominent places and so the gers were there year round (even if the people weren't) and the people weren't "nomads" as such, most living in the city and then holidaying or summer-ing in the countryside. These guys were the first proper nomadic family we had stayed with since being in Mongolia. Evey day they would get up with the sun as days are short in the winter and all of them are doing something all the time, an extended family of about 5 or 6 lived here pitching in. The herds got let out every morning to roam free over a huge expanse of snow covered land, the dogs went with them to keep them in check. There was water from the local town kept in a metal container that froze and so every morning the lady who must have been about 80 odd who was hard as nails would stalk out and chip off ice blocks to heat up on the dried animal dung ger fire/cooker to get the tea water for the morning. The man who must have been 90 odd was shovelling snow trails. A harsh winter was predicted ahead and so people were preparing meaning it was slaughtering time for the animals 2 or 3 cows to keep them going throughout the cold weather, and a further few that they could sell the meat or skin because they wouldn't be able to feed the all the animals throughout winter. It was really incredible to see this way of life close up Ann's personal. There are really very few ways to live left in the world that don't rely on money in some way or another and this one is no exception: they had to buy hay supply, had to buy water, had to buy petrol, tea bags, flasks etc. But as most go it is a very sustainable lifestyle that requires little from outsiide sources, and one that which during the summer becomes even easier with fresh water flowing in the rivers and an abundance of grass to keep the herds happy. They were solar panels that gave a main power supply for their TV at night and the toilet was just a hole in the ground (like everywhere in Mongolia) that would be filled up when full in the future.

    It was an amazing time and what we learnt, more than I can write about, helped us understand more about the nomads lives we had already met and were to meet in the future. Even though we were only half way through our trip I knew that this (Mongolian ger stays) were the most authentic way of life I had seen since travelling. Nomads and herders had modernised (slightly) and who can blame them? If I lived and worked hard like they did I would want to make it as easy for myself as possible too. But they have kept their nomadic lifestyle very much alive in their practices and traditions and so what we got was a very real insight into the majority of the Mongolian populations life. Not a tourist site that is a modern reconstruction of how people in the past used to live but don't really anymore or a prettily packaged culture trip into tribal life that does not reflect the way people are really living. Now don't get me wrong there's nothing wrong with this, I've done both plenty of times and loved it, there's only so many places left where you can get an authentic experience and Mongolia is one of them. This was 100% authentic in that if we weren't there they wouldn't be doing anything different and I feel very lucky to have dipped my toe if only for a minute.    Read more

  • Arias JordensOccidentally OrientalArias Jordens

    Enter Gobi

    November 26, 2017 in Mongolia ⋅ ⛅ -7 °C

    Bimba's car fixed we left the camp after 2 nights to head to Ongi Khiid which meant that after our first half of our trip in the Khangai Mountains we were now entering our second part galavanting around the Gobi desert. The world's 5th largest desert and I also think one of the dryest (fact check), as we turned off the highway towards the south and steadily made our way the heavy snow disappeared (that had capsized more than 1 car as we'd driven past) to replaced by a very flat, brown tundra. I hadn't looked at pictures before so I didn't know what to expect and what suprised me the most is how much life there was. There were strong, gnarly weeds covering the landscape, birds flying around, herds of Bahrain (2 hump) camels, horses, wild gazelle, wild goat and rabbits could be seen at various times. The landscape even though it looked bleak and desolate was actually alive with its own ecosystem adapted to live in this harsh environment because it was harsh, even with no snow it was still bitingly cold. But the ground was tough ground and soil rather than sand which I think is why there is life in the desert.

    Once we were in the Gobi we were away from civilization again big time, no roads, no towns, small villages of a couple hundred people hundreds of kilometers apart. It was just us and our recently fixed car. Welcome to the Gobi.    Read more

  • Arias JordensOccidentally OrientalArias Jordens

    Castle Ger

    November 26, 2017 in Mongolia ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C

    A very random ger camp that was abandoned when we arrived, obviously a tourist camp being situated so close to Ongi Khiid, just no souls around whatsoever having been smart and left the gobi for the winter.The main building on site was a frickin' castle! Very random and out of place within the surroundings of the pure, wild nature but guess you got to have a gimmick.Read more

  • Arias JordensOccidentally OrientalArias Jordens

    Ongi Khiid

    November 27, 2017 in Mongolia ⋅ ☀️ -17 °C

    I wasn't really sure what to expect when we arrived but the ruins were both beautiful and harrowing. Two complexes along the Ongi river, they were once a thriving Buddhist monastery with 200 monks living, praying and learning - this temple in particular was an intellectual hub with centres dedicated to the study of psychology, medicine, meditation and astrology. In short a small yet vibrant, peaceful society of people trying to better themselves and mankind.

    During the Stalinist purges, which unfortunately were very much NOT isolated to this monastery, throughout which any and all patrons of religion were persecuted. Monks here suffered the same fate as those under the Soviet rule throughout the world. The leaders were executed and those who fought back once the soldiers arrived were slaughtered, those that would submit were conscripted to join the army (as you can imagine peace-loving men of religion did not fare well in such an environment), and those that did not submit were exiled to the Siberian prison camps for life until the end of their days.

    All that remains now are ruins in the desert, one active temple which serves as a memorial rather than regular place of worship and the sad legacy of this once great place that is but a sliver of the horror hat befell countless people for one man's twisted vision.    Read more

  • Arias JordensOccidentally OrientalArias Jordens

    Flaming Cliffs

    November 27, 2017 in Mongolia ⋅ ⛅ -4 °C

    A few hours driving to Bayanzag aka The Flaming Cliffs with some Mongolian rap and Kazakh electro music was just the thing to lift the spirits after Ongi Khiid. The best bit was that the few hours was through the Gobi desert proper. I mean there was nothing to see over this flat land for miles and miles on miles over miles through miles in miles! It just went. There wasn't even a road (though Bimba somehow knew where he was going...swear his a bird).

    Two things that shocked me was: firstly, the lack of sand - you'd think desert in a classical sense equals sand but nope not the case (to be revealed later); secondly, ho much life there was in this harsh place. It was bleak and wild and it was tough but everywhere I looked I could see life - birds flying high, gnarled bushes, twisted grass weed, wild gazelle, camels, goats. Bearing in mind that its probably -15C/-20C at this point with absolutely NO wind shelter from the biting cold it's astonishing that anything survives in this and then Bimba tells us that the gazelle actually migrate here during the winter...they voluntarily put themselves through this blitz environment rather than migrating north like all the people to find shelter. Couldn't believe it! Now the kicker is that even though Rach and I were crazy tourists coming in Winter and roaming the country when the locals were hunkered down from the cold we actually got to see sights that do not exist at any other time of the year. Driving through the Gobi in a 4x4, off roading, with packs all over the place of gazelles running with us is something that I will never forget. It was almost like a winter safari with the humans gone (all 10 of them) nature tool over. Condors, yaks, arctic foxes, some of the last of the wild goats, snow leopards (I wish...kind of), sights that those jelly balls in your head cannot behold if you were to visit The Land of the Blue Sky during any other time of year. It was truly magical to be a part of, stepping into their world just for a little peek, yep...magical.

    I hadn't even realised we'd arrived as I thought we would have seen them rising out of the distance as we drove up to them...we had actually driven to the edge but with drive and surrounding area being so flat had registered that there was actually a drop until I stepped out into the biting wind to see an expanse beneath me. The Flaming Cliffs named for the red earth that it is comprised of - a known dinosaur graveyard. Yes an actual dinosaur graveyard, people have found dinosaur eggs whilst wandering the cliffs before so we kept our eyes open. Again the sheer vastness of the Gobi was just mind-blowing to see and try to comprehend. It's like the cliffs are a seam that teared and a shelf of the entire world just dropped and then continues on completely flat oblivious to its missing piece left standing watch behind it. To see and KNOW how much land there is and to KNOW that within 100 miles there might be 4 people is a very foreign concept to make sense of. The cliffs themselves were beautiful, the kind of formations that I imagine wouldn't be out of place in Arizona or Utah and of course in accordance with Asian health and safety standards the entire place was free to explore, no barriers, no warnings, nothing just a playground for geologists, outdoor enthusiasts, photographers, palaeontologists, geographers, wide-eyed wanderers and generally anyone ever! As you can imagine we left as very invigorated dinos :)    Read more

  • Arias JordensOccidentally OrientalArias Jordens

    Camel Ger

    November 27, 2017 in Mongolia ⋅ ⛅ -6 °C

    We stayed here for the night before heading off in the morning and the family had four camels that they kept disappearing off into the desert with, Tenji only knows where to. After a few games of umo and dinner we called it a night in our ger and fell asleep to the sweet scent of burning goats dung.

    In the morning whilst the car was being packed up I ended up running around with the family as they tried to running start their motorbike which had given up the ghost over night. Much effort and hassle to no avail...at least they have their camels!    Read more

  • Arias JordensOccidentally OrientalArias Jordens

    Gobi Safari

    November 28, 2017 in England ⋅ ☀️ 4 °C

    Two things that shocked me was: firstly, the lack of sand - you'd think desert in a classical sense equals sand but nope not the case (to be revealed later); secondly, ho much life there was in this harsh place. It was bleak and wild and it was tough but everywhere I looked I could see life - birds flying high, gnarled bushes, twisted grass weed, wild gazelle, camels, goats. Bearing in mind that its probably -15C/-20C at this point with absolutely NO wind shelter from the biting cold it's astonishing that anything survives in this and then Bimba tells us that the gazelle actually migrate here during the winter...they voluntarily put themselves through this blitz environment rather than migrating north like all the people to find shelter. Couldn't believe it! Now the kicker is that even though Rach and I were crazy tourists coming in Winter and roaming the country when the locals were hunkered down from the cold we actually got to see sights that do not exist at any other time of the year. Driving through the Gobi in a 4x4, off roading, with packs all over the place of gazelles running with us is something that I will never forget. It was almost like a winter safari with the humans gone (all 10 of them) nature tool over. Condors, yaks, arctic foxes, some of the last of the wild goats, snow leopards (I wish...kind of), sights that those jelly balls in your head cannot behold if you were to visit The Land of the Blue Sky during any other time of year. It was truly magical to be a part of, stepping into their world just for a little peek, yep...magical.Read more

  • Arias JordensOccidentally OrientalArias Jordens

    The Singing Sand Dunes

    November 29, 2017 in Mongolia

    Khongoryn Els - the singing sand dunes. The area that seems to have collected all the sand that I thought was going to be everywhere in the Gobi. 200m high at the highest point (think the shard is only 300m!) and we were going to climb it.

    BUT BEFORE as the majority of nomads had sought warmer, sheltered pastures elsewhere we were aimlessly driving to find somewhere to stay until after nightfall - this meant that we didn't get a layout of our surroundings until the next morning. The 4 of us entered the nomads ger and were offered the milk tea and food as is the tradition in Mongolia and whilst we learnt about the patriarchs gold mining nearby (hence why they were weathering out the winter here) I was chowing down on some questionable meat. Now to this day I still do not know what it was that I ate but let's just say there were strong indications that it was horse penis. Yeaaap...boiled horse penis. As I was chewing - and it was very, very chewy - I could feel something wasn't quite right but forced a swallow anyway and as it hit my stomach the gurgling started straight away. 30 mins later I am running around the camo trying to find the outhouse but had no idea where it was because it was pitch black and hadn't seen it on the way in. In my panicked state rushed to Rach for help who was stoking our burner. Without a word she chucked me a stick and grabbed her coat and torch, we both ran out into the desert and I dug myself a trench with the stick whilst Rach shined a light on the matter. Just about managed to finish before I started prarie dogging    Read more

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