Ringing San Dionisio

Woken by trash trucks at dawn, I remember why sleeping in the forest is better. Over coffee, Andrea tells me that many wolves have been spotted around here. He's the third person to mention it. Previously, this valley was Europe's hub for manufacturing spectacles. Once all the business and people left (mostly to Germany), I guess the wolves have found some living space.

Samuele from the villa gets chatting with me, serving up leftover breakfast from the hotel. We talk about travels and the economy of the place. He hugs me goodbye and says I should stay with him next time.

I feel like in a video game: ultra beautiful scenery, meeting characters who send me off on side quests. Today's quest is to go up the Antelao mountains to a little church at the top, but with all my bags.

For a climb of 1100 m, it is lesser than Monte Rite yesterday - but boy does this quest turn out to be a grind. After a lot of steep switchbacks, the asphalt suddenly disappears. The rest of 450 m climb is over loose rock, tree roots, gravel and eventually just a single track held in from a sheer drop by a thin strip of grass. I had to push Schopper and his bags uphill over this for several hours. Not fun!

I finally arrive at the church of San Dioniso, with a superb panorama view. Here I can see the Antelao, the Marmarole and the Friulane groups. The Rifugio Antelao was a km hike through steep forest, but there was beer and pasta to be had. Yum!

The sunset was beautiful, with orange and pink layers on the clouds and rocks. A hard earned camp spot!Read more